[1] My Wooden Dragon restoration: Filling planking seams with wood
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- Опубликовано: 29 май 2017
- December 2016 I purchased a very old dragon sailboat. This video describes the first steps of the ongoing restoration process, namely filling the gaps (seams) between planks with wood. This is in order to provide a fair surface for applying veneer on top of the existing skin in a second step. I am no professional boatbuilder and this is no instructional video - I simply compiled video footage as a kind of diary.
More images and information on www.27-29.de
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Hallo Herr Koch, mir blutet mein Herz, ich bin Bootsbauer gelehrt bei Abeking & Rasmussen 1979 und habe viele Drachen und Hasa Jolle gebaut und auch restauriert. Kalfartern kenne ich noch gut. Tolles Video...
Excelente, aprendí mucho para iniciar mi restauración del San Gabriel
Brilliant, and reminds me of the process I helped carry out nearly 50 years ago.
Thank you.
Excellent. I’m not a fan of Dragons or wooden boats but I understand the appeal of this kind of restoration in a proper workshop with all the right tools and materials. You should be proud of this work.
buenisimo!
Thank you.
Moin. Genau so hab ich es auch gemacht. Saubere Arbeit!
Danke. Immer schön, ein Lob von "Leidensgenossen" zu erfahren ...
Beautiful lines
Thanks.
Two months to do that part of the restoration, eh? I believe it, and I imagine some of the days on it were very long ones too! These tasks, I know, where we ‘just’ have to do this and we ‘just’ have to do that and, poof, with a wave of that darned magic wand that has never once yet performed as advertised, the job’s all done! Yes, at times our work can be very humbling but our efforts do always manage to add up to something, and our something’s are usually quite spectacular to behold!
Brilliant
Thank you. Filling the seams followed by planking finally made the boat very stiff and torsion-resistant. Sailing her on the Baltic Sea last month we cleaved big waves and enjoyed it.
Pablo no te olvides de mi cotización de los aparejos, debemos apoyar el conocimiento y la industria latinoamericana
So how did this work out for you? How did it hold up to wood expansion when the hull gets wet? Is it separating from the hull ribs at all?
Two years after I started it is still work in progress. Meanwhile all frames have been replaced, too and the hull is going to be totally planked with two layers of mahogany veneer. (Video coming soon). What you see in this video is preparing the hull for a non-traditional so called modern restoration. The hull will be sealed inside and outside.
@@vonhier Oh I see, your not leaving it a painted, planked hull. You've sure taken on a big job there. Good luck
Hell no deck makes the job hard , well you did ok does it sail ok now it’s finished I enjoy these vids thanks
Only a few more months to go. We`ll be on the water next spring.
Did you do the whole hull? Was there any problems with swelling and cracking planks?
Yes. I did the whole hull. this was my preparation for the following steps: planking the hull with two thin layers of mahogany - so called "modern restoration". The boat is sealed. No swelling or cracking.
@@vonhier ah ok I understand. Haven’t seen the veneering part yet
Are you going to epoxy sheath the hull?
To reinforce the hull the boat will get 2 layers of thin veneer glued with epoxy - but no fiber glass fabric
Ulrich Koch ahh cool, I was just worried about the seems when you filled them but as you are epoxy coating it my worries are over 😀. She’ll be super stiff once your done, will you be racing? 🤙⛵️
Racing? Mast and rigg will be as in the good old days 80 years ago - almost no trimming devices compared to modern riggs. So unless I won't find another elderly guy with an elderly boat -> no racing. Just sailing the Baltic Sea for fun.
I am done. ruclips.net/video/w98yj4l4sF8/видео.html
What happens when the wood expands and has broken the ribs ?
All ribs need to be replaced: ruclips.net/video/qc2ZBml2800/видео.html
Здравствуйте.Фрезой по гвоздям? Или их там нет? Hallo, ein Nagelschneider? Oder sind sie nicht da?
Die Nägel sind aus Kupfer. Kein Problem. (Гвозди сделаны из меди. Нет проблем.)
Спасибо.Danke!
Didn’t go right through with the blade makes for a better look inside I used the router and layed the boat on its side some to ease off working
90% of the track I didn't go through, too. Only where the gaps were to big I could not avoid to touch the inside. I my case I did not dare to lay the boat on its side because there was no deck, not even deck beams. Upside down kept the symmetry of all structures.
Remowe paint from wood cup brush Megaloder video.
?
Und warum schleifen sie dem MIT wandschleifer (Rote,leichter dafür aber ganz gut gemacht
Ich habe mit verschiedenen Methoden experimentiert. Hobel, per Hand und leichtere Geräte. Mit diesem Gerät ging es für mich am besten.
@@vonhier fläche musst glat sein ,und mit dein machine ist schwer
Вы из какой страны ?
Германия
What the he'll am I looking at
Good question. I am asking myself the same question for about three years now.
Что не понятно ? Я инструмент для удаления краски произвожу ! Посмотри google cup brush в топ номер один ,а Вы ? Хватит скребками мучиться !
OK. Now I understand. I have these cup brushes in my workshop and tested them. Problem: The wood is very old and cup brushes (Hard or soft) take away too much too fast. I prefer the rubber disk or the belt sander. But I used rubber brushes on oak wood inside the boat.
@@vonhier 3M Scotch-Brite (5818)?
1:44..... he's ready for coronavirus.
I must say this is a horrible lot of work, but even so, I don’t believe in the method.
When the boat get some time in the water, it will probably crack the boards, separate from the bands or something else prevented by the more flexible construction with caulking between the boards.
We are not talking about traditional boatbuilding or restoration. The method itself must not be applied as the only measure to restore a hull, especially when planking is too thin and in bad shape. Not only were all frames replaced, but subsequently my boat was covered with mahogany planking, 2 layers, 1,5mm each. (separate video on this) DAMIA and I experienced two seasons so far with sailing and regattas on the Baltic Sea - the boat proved to be very stiff and tough. Not even a suggestion of mechanical damage.
@@vonhier
My God!
Two layers.
Then you have definitely got a too heavy boat according to class rule, but maybe you are allright with that.
Anyway it is nobodys business but the owners.
I owned a dragon many years ago, and the classk is fun to sail.
I have owned 3 such wooden boats, old classic types, different classes, but all of them a ton of work every year before the sailing season started.
I always however felt it was worth the work, there are no finer boats than the classics.
Pure asthetic!
And a dream to sail.
Well, you have done a marvellous work, and I wish you many happy cruises and regattas! :-)
@@knutknutsen5610 Thanks for your kind response, Knut. When the boat was built it had a white finish. Over decades several owner wanted to see that "wooden look" . As a consequence almost all planks lost >3mm in thickness compared to the construction plans by Johan Anker. And the rivets hit to the surface. I don't think we are too heavy at sea. After all the waterline matched the old one from 1938.
@@vonhier yes some boats were built in Mahogany but a lot of them in Oregon Pine.
The latter were always painted white.
Some owners didn’t get the idea, and thought they could recreate a Mahogany hull.
I’ve seen such examples myself.
When the plugs get too thin you have only to do what you did.
But then one has to be young and have a great spirit of optimism. ;-)
Anyway, you have a wonderful boat.
And it sounds like you are within the class rule after all.
In any case, you should not be restricted, only awarded a small handycap if any reaction at all.
These light racing boat hulls were not designed to be caulked. Some even had glued seams from the beginning.