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Hey Michael, unfortunately I don´t own a miter saw and never used a miter saw. Im afraid, at the moment I don´t have a helpfull answer.

There are holes in the top, gaps in the doors. The mice are doing great for years now

@@tims.2832 gerbils arent mice tho?

Thanks, yeah, the profiles and fasteners I was using are from the brand Item. In the US, 80/20 seems to sell similar stuff. The profiles are 40mmx40mm or 40x80mm, the t-slot is 8mm. eBay may be a good option.

Thanks for answering. I find you another video about tablesaw assembling.. so probably I should start from it. But about this workbench.. I'm wandering how you attached box sliders to the legs and specially there were no leg in between the boxes..

I find there many different profiles 40/40.. some more heavier. So you choose some kind in the middle..

Ahead.. there is plywood wall in between those boxes on the left?

@@TheValkoooo you are right, the cabinet is attached to the legs of the frame. There are T-slot nuts in the legs and the cabinet is attached to the lakes with M8 screws. The big cabinet on the left side has a plywood wall in the middle, that’s correct. For the aluminum extrusion profiles, I have chosen the middle density, but the two long profiles that carry the tabletop are the heavy ones.

Hi, danke. Die Kosten konnte ich noch nicht ausrechnen, da ich Material aus meinem letzten Projekt übrig hatte, Profile, Verbinder, Schrauben, Nutensteine. Letztlich hängt es auch davon ab, aus welchem Holz man die Tischplatte und die Schubladen baut. ich habe jetzt relativ teures 18 mm multiplex Birke genommen, viele bauen Werkstatt Schubladen aber natürlich auch aus OSB - Platten, was deutlich günstiger ist.

@@tims.2832 Ich hab mir überlegt, eine Küche in diesem Stil zu baun. Das was Du hier gebaut hast ist natürlich eine geniale Vorlage, mit der ich das meiner Frau erklären kann.

@@satsadhu alles klar, viel Glück mit dem Projekt. Ich würde noch sagen, stimm das möglichst gut mit deiner Frau ab, wegen des Haussegens. Die Optik von Montageprofilen und multiplex ist natürlich schon sehr technisch, etwas weniger wohnlich. Für eine Küche würde ich außerdem überlegen, unterFlurauszüge zu verwenden, das sieht schicker aus. Man sieht dann die Führungen nicht, wenn die Schubladen offen sind. Heiko Rech hat zu Schubladen und Führungen ein paar gute Videos gemacht. Die unterflurAuszüge sind natürlich etwas teurer, insbesondere die Markenprodukte von Blum, Hettich und so weiter. es gibt wohl auch einen italienischen, neuen Hersteller, Fa Salice, Modell Progressa. Das könnte etwas günstiger sein, als Blum und Hettich.

@@tims.2832 Alu-Profile bekommt man auch farbig und z.B. nur an 3 Seiten mit einer Nut oder auch halbrund, was die Optik durchaus beeinflusst. Und Multiplex kann man mit diversen farblichen Beschichtungen kaufen. Für unseren Haussegen sehe ich da keine Probleme auf mich zukommen. Was mich an so einem Projekt besonders interessiert ist die Flexibilität, die mit solchen Materialien daherkommt. Auch Umzüge sind sicherlich einfacher zu bewältigen. Ist natürlich auch eine Frage, wie man es umsetzt.

However not my old bench. 😉

@@tims.2832 no inspiration or no function?

@@doughooper9918 frankly, my old bench was neither beneficial for my inspiration, nor was it detrimental. but I was always struggling to find certain tools, fasteners, the right piece of aluminum, a washer, a certain Allen wrench you name it. In other words, my inspiration was fine, but the old bench slowed me down in realizing my inspirations.

Bremen. Danke 👍

a couple of osb/mdf boards and a couple of plasterboard. Not exactly edc, but on the other hand not a ton :-)

I had some leftover material that I bought at eBay. The rest was bought at an online store in Germany, Motedis.de. The sizes are 40x40mm and 80x40mm, always with 8mm wide t-slots.

Thx. I think, in English they’re called t-track clamps

Good question. And I didn´t even mention in my video, that my floor not only has a slope, but within this slope it is again pretty uneven. I dealt with it by using the 8 leveling feet under the aluminum frame. Then I used a quality water level to adjust the hight of the frame left to right, back to front. Finally I put the table tops on it. Since the tabletops are plywood, its pretty much "dead" wood, that doesn´t move any more due to humidity. And the aluminum is even more immune to humidity, it doesn´t care if its wet summer or dry winter. For woodworking, thats good enough in my book. For metal guys, engineers on the other hand, there is no such thing as "completely flat", only tolerance classes, grades of tolerances. They would consider it a mistake, to spend time and money to achieve a tolerance class, that the product or use case does not require.

I had to google it ;-) but yeah, sort of. Thanks

Hey, good question: without cabinet and drawers: not stable. With cabinet and drawers (even free standing): super stable. The aluminum legs are bolted to the cabinet.

Thanks. They are called end fasteners in English.

@@tims.2832 thanks 🙏

It’s bought (www.kippwerk.de)

@@tims.2832 Thanks!

I can't find it on the Kippwerk website, what's it called?

@@trobinou47 I also found it here: www.sautershop.de/klemmbolzen-oe-20-mm-ru-21136

@@tims.2832 Fantastic ! Many thanks

Indeed, I watched Lets Bastel a lot, funny guy and good projects from the southwest of Germany.

Hola, I made all of the holes myself.

Cool, wir Bremer wieder mal, ich kämpfe ja bekanntlich auch mit dem Englischen. Also die Aluprofile sind von Motedis, Dold oder eBay, das dicke Stück Aluzuschnitt und die winkelplatten von Motedis.

@@tims.2832 Ich finde an Deinem Englisch nichts auszusetzen. Sagt ein Bremer, dessen letzte english-lesson schon ein paar Jahrzehnte her ist. Danke für die schnelle Antwort und die Einkaufshinweise. Ich wünsche Dir noch viel Freude mit Deiner neuen MODERN WOODWORKING BENCH und bin super-gespannt, ob nach 1/1 noch was dazu kommt.

Good question : I wouldn’t let it run for longer than half an hour. I had running for approximately 20 minutes, and the exhaust air was kind of warm, but not hot. Since it’s 2 kW of energy, I wouldn’t recommend to let it run for an hour anyway, because it would get expensive overtime. Furthermore, I have a smoke detector above the enclosure.

Thanks for the quick response. I tend to use the large, noisy vac only with the mitre saw or table saw. For other operations, I go with a small cordless vac that is much quieter. That said, with both of those larger tools, it is unlikely to be running continuously for very long. Sanding or using the router is another matter. I'll definitely have a go at making one.

This vac has 2k watts, so a lot of energy. On average, I have the vac running for 5-10 minutes, rarely longer than 15 minutes. The exhaust air is warm, but not hot. It seems to me that it is designed to be cooled by the air that is going through the vac, less the surface of the bin. But I would recommend to alway be around when it is running. And I have a smoke detector on the ceiling above the shop vac.