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Quicker and easier than using a specialized tool. The idea is like tuning a piano or guitar.

Good question, I'm 6 foot (1.8 metres) and you didn't miss it 😉

For your information my height is 6ft or 1.8 metres.

Good point. You are right. Afterwards I used a round spoke wrench and a Tubular Box Spanner as a tuning fork to hit the spoke to get the same sound /tension as the other spokes on the same side. Have added a separate video showing this was done. Thanks for your feedback 😀

Thanks 😊

If I understand you correctly then there may be an issue with the alarm's siren. Note that the alarm will not function correctly if the vehicle battery is weak or flat.

Thanks for the information. We have had trouble with the boot leaking but not between the windscreen and bonnet.

Pleased all is working well, thanks for the feedback

but apparently if the car is fitted with Air con then the fan will be on virtually on all the time until the engine is switched off.

The Relay for the fan(located top left in the fuse box)

I changed the relay but problem still persist . Was advised to have it " programmed " into or onto the computer box 😢

Having checked into the circuitry for a car with Aircon there is a thermal fuse (has small metal case) which is in series with the fan resistor (coiled wire which Half's the voltage hence the fan speed under the control of the ECU) if it goes open circuit (blown) the fan will run a full speed all the time. Either replace the thermal fuse with the correct rating (192 degrees) or as a complete assembly with the fan motor resistor.

Thanks for the positive feedback. As the fan comes on immediately then I would suspect the temperature sensor is faulty. The temperature sensor for the fan is part of the thermostat housing. We had the opposite issue with the fan never running. I would recommend replacing the complete thermostat assembly which should include the temperature sensor. See the video replacement thermostat housing on Ford KA. Hope this helps.

I had the sensor replace twice and still continues . Had a issue with the front gearbox mounting pressing against the fan resistor , corrected that yet still persists guess I'll do the complete thermostat housing and will let know . ​@yuckybear5026

Try replacing the cooling fan relay first as it might be the issue here. Relays are located at the top of the main fusebox. Be careful to replace with the correct part.

As we have no air conditioning, yours has both a high speed relay and cooling fan speed resistor. Best replace the cooling fan speed resistor if you haven't already done so. Note that the fan will run on longer with air conditioning. Hope you can fix it soon.

Great, me too (machine now 12 years plus old) and still works fine without leaks.

Pleased, just right as summer is hopefully coming back

@@yuckybear5026 yeah let’s hope so had enough of this horrible weather

According to the Haynes manual the Rocam (Duratec) engine does not have the IAT (inlet air temp) sensor. IAT is mounted in the air filter housing on the l/h side of the Endura pre 2002 OHV engine air filter cover. Duratec's have a TMAP sensor that combines both the IAT (temperature and manifold absolute pressure) located on the inlet manifold. Hope this helps thanks for your feedback.

I had my vehicle diagnosed and got a P0113 code ( sensor Curcuit high input ) 😢. Any advice on how to Solve this problem? Thanks for the reply

According to what I have read the code P0113 for high sensor input is likely to be an issue with your TMAP sensor (models from 1999) located near to the idle air control valve but obscured by the inlet manifold even with the air filter assembly removed. As I haven't (as yet) had this issue I can't advise further but if the Haynes manual says for best access the inlet manifold should be removed this is NOT a DIY job. Take a look with the air filter removed and see if you can locate the sensor near to the idle air control valve but if the Haynes manual says it is difficult then best pass it to a trained mechanic IMO. Let me know how you get on best of luck

Thanks for your positive feedback. Regarding the Oxygen/ Lambda sensor (NGK), I didn't purchase this online, as I got it from a trustworthy local auto factor parts supplier for about £60.00, however I can recommend Europarts who have got a Bosch Lambda Sensor (before catalytic converter) Product Code: 710770407 for £63.99 with Free delivery for orders above £25. Hope this helps

Pleased to hear you have saved your newer watches. Many people have done the same as you so don't feel bad Pleased to have helped

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for your feedback. Good question, you do need to pull back the bumper (unclipped) near to the headlight to get off one of the headlight bolts but do not need to remove the bumper. Hope this helps

Thanks for your feedback. Try to get the next smartwatch with larger battery capacity but still keep the back-light set to low and the timeout short to lengthen battery life.

Alternator (exchange) paid approx £100 from Euro Car Parts plus £50 labour charge for mobile mechanic.

Very interesting, useful feedback for the future. Thanks pleased you managed it. I have added a link in the description to suitable bumper clips on Ebay. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the feedback. Pleased that things went well.

Pleased all went well with replacing the sensor. As regards the radio, check the fuse and fuse holder F26 (F35 for models after September 1999) try inspecting the electrical connections at the back of the radio for damage or dirt. The audio circuit operates from the ignition switch only. Regarding the open circuit / malfunction error I would have thought you would have another error code number as well. If you have no other symptoms and this error is only displayed by the OBD analyser, I wonder if it is a false error. Best check with your mechanic. Regarding technical information, I do refer to the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual 5567 which has all the circuit wiring diagrams which is quite useful. Hope all goes well with the car.

@@yuckybear5026 After replacing the sensor I no longer get the fault code for it. It does give me a P0171E0 system too lean code. I'm planning on changing the fuel filter as I suspect it hasn't ever been done. There's also very minor carbon build up on the throttle body which may be letting air leak in? Thanks for the info on the fuse for the radio. Is there a visual tell? Also on the old lambda sensor there was some green copper oxidation on two of the four pins. Might this be the open circuit? Would I attempt to clean this? Or have my mechanic swap the receiving connecter for this sensor?

Regarding P0171E0 system too lean code, could try cleaning the connector first with switch cleaner. I suspect you could be right to replace the fuel filter, but as this is located under the car so you need to jack it up with axle stand while wearing safety goggles as risk of fuel splashing out. Might be best to leave this with your mechanic. The radio fuse is ‘marked up’ behind the fuse box (F35 is in the bottom row, second from right) below the driver’s side of the facia or check the voltage at the radio connector with a meter.

I figured I'd give you an update, the switch cleaner has resolved the issue. Looks like it was getting an open circuit fault due to the corrosion. The contact cleaner has removed all of the corrosion, thank you very much for the tip! All is well with the old girl :) @@yuckybear5026 I never expected working on your own car to be this fun.

Vervangen is prima zelf te doen!

Thanks for sharing the costs. Regarding the repair, the decision is yours. In my opinion if you’re happier to pay for the garage, then that would be best.

I am gonna replace my thermostat housing soon

Our pleasure!

Hey man, heb jij ook een lekkende thermostaathuis aan je ford ka of andere auto ik heb het ook en garages vragen minimaal 200 euro ervoor

@@ewaja9282 ja heb het ook, je kan zelf het huis bestellen voor 30 euro op autodoc. Vervangen is niet heel moeilijk

Very interesting about the car engine temp while driving. This explains the almost immediate overheating of the engine when the car met with very slow traffic on the highway with the fan not working. Thanks for your positive feedback, yes very satisfied and worth the effort.

Thanks for the information

Thanks very much for the positive feedback. Pleased it helped, I hope all goes well with the repair.

​@@yuckybear5026 I got it fixed! In the end it wasn't too difficult. The only bit I really struggled with were the metal clips, and especially the one on the hose in the back that connects to the radiator. And getting it off is easier than getting it back on. But I managed! Once you get a good grip on it isn't difficult, getting a good grip on it is exactly that though. Cooling system sorted, thanks!

I hope you have success in fixing the issues with new parts as required, thanks for the feedback

@@yuckybear5026do you think I could just screw off the new solenoid from the new part and replace that instead of having to physically disconnect the pipes? The new part just arrive today

When I did it some of the old parts of the old valve broke off inside the hoses and needed removing with long nose pliers before fitting the new part. It is hard to push back on the hoses which must be pushed on fully before moving the clips up over the connection pipes of the new valve.

Thanks, much appreciated

Once fixed I have had no further issues. I hope you too are successful

Thanks for the tip!

Glad it was helpful!

Hi there, according to my information the right port (in) of the HCV comes from the far right end of the thermostatic housing and the return connection from the HCV left port (out) is to the second port in from the right of the thermostatic housing. So your connections look correct. Hope this helps.

Thank You@@yuckybear5026

Glad it was helpful, thanks

Thanks!

Very surprised they have the same problem with the KA built in 2016 based on the Fiat 500 body design

@@yuckybear5026 Mine was leaking on the rubber gromet, shaped like a upside-down teardrop where the cables come through for the light's. I pulled it out cleaned all round the gromet and now it's stopped leaking. My wheel well was like a swimming pool 😂.

@@yuckybear5026 My mistake my Ka is 2013 model.

@@WelshLad. thanks for the update pleased you fixed it

Hope you managed to fix it

Keep the cap for the new expansion tank. Recommend you purchase the new expansion tank direct from a Ford garage same quality as the original to avoid sub standard (copy) replacement where the cap doesn't close or seal tightly. Ford original part was about the same cost as those advertised on the Web.

@@yuckybear5026 just replaced it today with an eBay copy. Seems okay so far but I can see the car is still leaking from a lower hose somewhere and causing it to boil over again. Bit out of my depth to replace that, so going to leave it in with my mechanic this week and see if he can fix it for me

​@@garydonnelly3813Always good to get a mechanics experience where needed, well done for having a go, the expansion tank needed replacing anyway.

Pleased to help

Hope i t fixed the leak

@@yuckybear5026 Yes it did! Thank you so much

Pleased it worked for you both ladies

Pleased it worked for you

Agree, pobably used CAD (computer-aided design) the model was designed and engineered in Brazil.

Agree with you, even the mechanic struggled. Obviously he had sufficient experience to rotate it out of the bracket. I didn't feel comfortable asking to video him as he might have objected or made a mistake. I was just happy to see him get the thing out. Sorry you weren't successful.

Bathroom silicone sealant fixed it for us and still no more leaks since.

I don't know the length of the drivebelt but as this varies according to whether air conditioning is fitted and the belt tension is automatically adjusted by the drive belt tensioner, best inspect the condition of the belt for missing sections and deposits in the grooves along the length and if in doubt replace the belt with a correct one from a trusted Ford dealer.

Glad my video was helpful👍

Thanks for your feedback.