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This one is way easier than the klipper upgrade too!

I had to reflash my eMMC today after a forced power stop when the z limit failed on me. It must have corrupted something on the eMMC. Redid everything but luckily did not have to flash the MCUs. Luckily I had a backup of all my files so it was much easier this time around. Only took about 30 minutes. .

No problem at all, happy to help!

Those are IKEA Alex cabinets that I cut down to 3 drawer units. Lowering them increased stability and still allowed some storage and I can move them around the room when I’m filming!

Thanks for watching and that is a great question! The X1C is definitely a level above the SV08 for sure in terms of ease of use and setup. Which is probably the largest difference between say a voron type printer / SV08 voron clone and the Bambu printers. The bambu's just work out of the box, you really don't need a ton of printing experience to have a great printing experience. The SV08 can be a good printer, that offers very similar quality of prints, it just takes some work to get it there. I have the SV08 and a voron 2.4r2 350mm and my Voron prints excellent (But that too is hours of testing and tweaking and upgrades). I will say the upgrades I've done so far inch the SV08 closer to a more expensive Voron 2.4 which is a good thing. If you want something to tinker with, has potential and you need the additional build volume the Sv08 isn't a bad choice. It's on sale now too for black friday / cyber monday so that makes it even more of a bargain. I'm testing some hotends to see if I can further improve print quality. Things are improving greatly, and the side comparison of the same print on the x1c and sv08 is getting harder to tell a difference.

⁠Thank you! Just knowing that it is possible to get them that close in visual print quality is probably good enough for me to take the plunge.. the price is definitely right. I just found your channel and enjoy these sv08 videos, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them and share your knowledge and experiences etc.

@@colinmsmall No problem at all! There will be plenty more videos on the SV08. I have been using it more and more lately.

Interesting. When did you receive your printer? Mine arrive in early August. I wonder if this is / was a QA check. I'm curious what Pin is assigned to your front fan? I went back and looked at my original print.cfg to make sure I wasn't crazy and it's PB0 - which is the top right, PB1 is the lower fan connector. So my SV08 appeared to ship plugged into the upper right pin!! Now I'm curious if others are experiencing this issue. I'm going to add the pin # for each location in the description so everyone can adjust as needed.

BTT is supposed to have a can verizon coming out, they currently have one that works with a nighthawk tool board. EBB36/42. BTT also has a duo out that I can't find any additional information on. That supports usb and can. I'm going to try and order one and see if that is an option. I can report back once I've tested and gotten familiar with the duo version.

@@ThePrintasaurusI would be interested in what you find out also.

I have not gotten the "mcu eddie unable to connect" yet. I will keep an eye on that. I did not attempt to modify my usb cable, so I wonder if the quality of the shielding isn't good, or if it's shielded at all!! I'll drop a link if I can find a higher quality cable that is cost effective and see if I can do a video on converting to those for the tool head and eddy. Thanks for sharing that information. My plan with this printer is to do a series of upgrades to improve reliability and performance.

@@ThePrintasaurus The shielding is the conclusion that was reached on GitHub discussion.

The ST Link is what you use to communicate with your EMMC to flash your klipper firmware to. Without it, I'm not sure of a easy way to get your image/firmware on the EMMC chip.

Hopefully that strike is over soon, if not already. I'm sure you are excited to try those new plates! I have a bambu Supertack that still hasn't come in, but will test when it does. My go to plates now are the Glacier, I'm going to revisit after a few hundred print hours and do a comparison to the PEI plate I typically used to see how well they have held up. I'll incorporate the super tack plate as a test to that as well!

Thanks for giving my videos a look!

Is it the belts or the stepper motors? The steppers are a bit louder than my Ldo stepper motors on my voron. These have a high pitch sound to them. I’ll look into what can be done and get back to you!

@ sovol has been recommending me things to make it quieter and the latest is changing the belts. I feel like it’s a mix of both but I’m new to serious printing like this so idk.

@ also to note I don’t see a lot of complaints on how loud the machine is. Idk if I’m just crazy or my machine needs tweaking. I was planning on building a cabinet to put it in with sound dampers lining it. But if I can get the machine somewhat quiet without that then I’d be down.

Yeah that one was a new lense. Slowly building out my filming equipment and some things are working better than others! Thanks for taken a look and checking out my content! Take care.

I really like the glacier so far over my pei build plate. I would say go for it! It’s a very good build plate.

I am testing ABS now on the Glacier build plate. I have used Bambu, and Polymaker for testing so far, at the recommended manufacturer bed temps. Both have stuck without issue, so far good adhesion. I'm going to walk back temps and continue to test till adhesion fails or I have warping issues with the ABS. So far things are looking great with ABS. I'll move onto ASA after a few more test cycles.

Hello! Yes no problem at all, I actually just ordered the bambu super tack the other day. When that comes in I can compare the three plates. Supertack vs Glacier vs Frostbite.

Hoping to have that shortly after thanksgiving. Working through some printed parts and fine tuning.

Are you trying to update from Handy? Or bambustudio?

Thank you, hope it helps! I recently did a video migrating to mainline klipper. Printer performs really well so far, maintains z-offset now. Probe still isn’t perfect but far more manageable. Might be worth looking into if you are wanting to further improve your SV08

Oh yes! One of my favorite plates to use on my voron 2.4 350mm is this one, fits perfectly on the sv08. You'd want to get the 355X355mm one. www.fabreeko.com/collections/v2-4/products/honeybadger-v2-4-single-sided-black-pei-textured?variant=42614568452351

Yup. The idea behind that is to prevent you from printing without a build plate - it does happen lol. Just remember if you disable it to check you have a plate in your printer and it re-enables when you do printer firmware updates, so you'll have to disable again.

Is this in the back middle section? That is normal, it's supposed to actually clean the nozzle. Once that wears the coating off a little and goes through a cycle or two of doing that you shouldn't have any further issues.

Send me an email at theprintasaurus@gmail.com I can send you side by side pictures of the two plates. The Glacier is very similar to a PEI build plate texture, slightly less texture. The frostbite to me has an aggressive texture to it.

Thank you!

In comparison to other plates, this is possible especially with the frostbite plate. I left those plates out for a few hours to do that test, and the grip they maintain I don't think it would be an issue to keep things held till power is restored.

Thank you! Working to improve everyday!

I played around with the lower end of the recommended built plate temps for the Glacier and Frostbite. I didn't experience any print quality issues so I used my standard print profiles. Aux fan off for PLA. Let me know what settings your curious about and I can test and get back to you.

+1 on this question! I was thinking to do the "Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack" but any help would be awesome.

Yes. I should of added that. Will get something in the description to reference. But to answer your questions. The Frostbite has a AR code on the plate that pins it to the textured PEI Plate in bambu Studio. I ran the bed temp at 35c first layer and 30c other layers for PLA. It worked well at 30c and 30c too. For PETG I went with 50C initial layer, and 50C other layers and had zero issues. For the Glacier build plate - the recommend AR code to use based on the stickers provided was the cool plate. So you would use the cool plate in bambu studio. 45c first layer, and 45c other layers for that one and it works fantastic with PLA. 60c worked great with PETG.

@@ThePrintasaurus I own a glacier and was wondering if I would better set the plate to Cool Plate SuperTack? The Cool Plate preset has 0c for Generic PETG and 35c for Generic PLA while the Cool Plate SuperTack has 70c for Generic PETG and 45c for Generic PLA. Is it better to change the Cool Plate Temperature settings or is it better to choose the Cool Plate SuperTack? Do the plate presets differ in other settings than the filament temperature?

​@@martymcbro I looked through the machine G-code just to see if there was anything added recently for Z-offset. The only Z-offset adjustment is for the textured PEI plate, it moves it to Z -0.04mm. I put that output below if you were interested in how it looks. ;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing == ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”} G29.1 Z-0.04 ; for Textured PEI Plate So based on that it appears that the other build plates use the same z-offset, which is what I would of been concerned with. You should be good to use the new supertack. That build plate came out right after this video was released or it would of been a great test. You will need to turn off build plate detection as there is no sticker for that one if you are using a X1.

@ThePrintasaurus Thank you for the investigation. I will try this again. I already tried the Coolplate SuperTack setting for the Glacier with one PLA print of a christmas deer, but the legs of the deer kept falling at some point resulting in a failed print. I tried this twice. However, another print with PETG and a larger base area finished succesfully with this setting.

Awesome, interested to hear if the basketball works!

Yup PA1 is the pin you want to you. If you look at this Pin of the motherboard, that is the correct pinout. There's nothing actually plugged in PA2, at least for my release. I received mine around the 1st of August. github.com/Sovol3d/SV08/blob/main/Motherboard/MCU_PIN_definition.pdf

Let me know which one you end up going with. They both worked great! I've been using the Glacier non-stop.

I have some PC and nylon due in soon. Once I have it, I will put up another video testing the Glacier and how well it works with other filaments!

No worries at all! The main benefit to upgrading to mainline klipper is expanded options. With the sovol fork you are stuck to whatever updates they choose to push out for it. With moving to mainline klipper you can utilize probes like the eddy coil. Or benefit from updates as they become available. In a lot of ways moving to mainline just opens the door to options to tinker, build and improve a printer that has a lot of potential. It's not a requirement by any means, but those would be the main reasons.

That is a great idea. It's not hard to mess up the rollers. Thanks for sharing!

Very good point. I'm going to adjust my description to add that recommendation.

Thank you! I’m glad you’re up and printing! Looking forward to hearing about what you print!

It really depends on what you are looking to do. Mainline Klipper allows more frequent updates, new features potentially. The Sovol fork isn't going to be as up to date, and may take longer to resolve any bug issues, etc. Another benefit to mainline klipper is the ability to modify more freely. An example would be upgrading your probe to a eddy coil. This is supported now on mainline, and is not support on the sovol fork. So overall it really just depends on what you are wanting to do with your printer.

Yes, I find that slowing down your first layer speed found under speed, initial layer in your bambu studio application helps provide more consistent layer adhesion and quality first layers. I typical slow down my first layer on every print regardless of material for that reason!

@ThePrintasaurus thank you. Slow down by how much?

@@FredSchmitthammer 40mm for first layer, and 80 for infill. Default is 50 and 105mm.

@ThePrintasaurus thanks

Wheels don't lock. But! They are NOT a high quality caster so they don't move well to begin with and with the lower center of gravity they don't move much if at all. So far I'm happy with the solution and having them in the house already was a great way to repurpose them and add some storage in the process. I printed some gridfinity storage boxes for the bambu printers, and a few other organization sections and have them in the drawers too.

@@ThePrintasaurus thanks!

@@FredSchmitthammer No problem at all!

Glad you liked it, and thanks for watching!

I’m going to revisit this video and see what all has changed in the more recent Bambu releases. I’ll get some updates in the description. I’ll also try and run a similar size print and see what comes of that.

@@ThePrintasaurus Just wanted to give you an update: It seems that the issue is there since I sliced the file to the SD card on my PC. Then placed that SD card back in the A1 and printed from there. I.e. not going through the bambu cloud. If I send directly from my PC via the bambu cloud, it generates a thumbnail that enables the skip function. There's an article about it on bambu wiki.

@@fuppading Interesting, I will take a look at that and read up on it. Thank you for following up with an update!

Vibration can cause ringing but Input shaping corrects a large majority of issues that would come from vibration. My concerns were more so what it would do longer term to the mechanics of the printer. After a few months, it’s been perfectly fine! Thanks for watching!

Sure I can do a video going over what all I have going on in the background and what I’m currently using for those printers!

I have had similar experiences the carbon seems to be the hardest to work with for me as well. Same deal with different filament brands. Voxels pla and petg seem to work better than bambu with the carbon. Darker colors also show the pattern better too!

My preference has been to keep one in standard configuration and my second ams I upgraded to the hydra pro (Now a python). The rubber rollers are tricky and can be hard to remove without damaging. I too bought some extras just incase. The deciccant trays for the front of the ams do work with the hydra / hydra pro. I haven't had any fitment issues. I'm using a python now without the enclosure. I think it really just depends on what materials your using and what spools. I really like the gear driven design of the python, I have zero issues with retraction and feeding now. Sometimes with the standard ams and the hydra I would have issues with spools, especially when they were very low on filament. I have a number of small sample spools that I have been testing 250g rolls. They work fantastic in the python, really can't get them working well in the hydra. If you do the python with the enclosure it really takes up a lot of space so you have to consider that as well. I have been printing mostly pla and petg with that setup so the enclosure wasn't a big factor as it's really not needed for what I utilize that setup for.

@@ThePrintasaurus greatly appreciate the information.

For Vase mode it would be different settings. I don't use it often but what I find works best is the following. You can increase the layer width for our outer wall - will increase strength slightly but can reduce quality. Speed is probably your biggest thing with vase mode, slow it down a little for outer wall speed and you should see quality improvements. Play around with those two settings and let me know if that helped you!

I have about 200 hours on it and it is still holding up great. No changes in performance or issues mechanically with the printer. It has been a great space reducer.

He’s got some great mods, will be trying some soon, stay tuned!

Will measure and get back to you!