I see an added bonus for the cool plates is for power outages. I was about 90% through a 40 hour print when the power went out overnight. I wasn’t able to resume printing in the morning because the Bambu textured build plate cooled down and the print had released from the plate.
In comparison to other plates, this is possible especially with the frostbite plate. I left those plates out for a few hours to do that test, and the grip they maintain I don't think it would be an issue to keep things held till power is restored.
Took the 7 days for biqu to finally send out and hopefully not 25 days to get here but I ordered a set of Glacier and I have a bambu supertack waiting for me when the post workers finish striking, it was a day away when they started the strike unfortunately and the quicker delivery will be preferred for me coming straight from bambu if the plate results are the same. Then its down to whichever lasts longer.
Hopefully that strike is over soon, if not already. I'm sure you are excited to try those new plates! I have a bambu Supertack that still hasn't come in, but will test when it does. My go to plates now are the Glacier, I'm going to revisit after a few hundred print hours and do a comparison to the PEI plate I typically used to see how well they have held up. I'll incorporate the super tack plate as a test to that as well!
@@ThePrintasaurus no strike is still on for the bambu plates, and I ordered from biqu website on 22 nov and it says usually takes 25 days but hopefully sooner.
I played around with the lower end of the recommended built plate temps for the Glacier and Frostbite. I didn't experience any print quality issues so I used my standard print profiles. Aux fan off for PLA. Let me know what settings your curious about and I can test and get back to you.
Which plate are you using, which plate in your slicer? For the Frostbite is should be your textured plate. For the glacier it will be whichever sticker you put on. I turn the build plate detection off, and just set things up manually. I did have a few failures with the frostbite and getting the correct build plate reading. If you turn it off, just make sure you have your plates clear, and installed so you don't have any surprises. I have got busy and forgot to check once or twice and almost ran a print with no bed installed!!
I was curious about the finish of the bottom of your test prints. I only have the Frostbite so I would have loved to see what the Glacier prints look like on the bottom.
Send me an email at theprintasaurus@gmail.com I can send you side by side pictures of the two plates. The Glacier is very similar to a PEI build plate texture, slightly less texture. The frostbite to me has an aggressive texture to it.
Is this in the back middle section? That is normal, it's supposed to actually clean the nozzle. Once that wears the coating off a little and goes through a cycle or two of doing that you shouldn't have any further issues.
So I just ordered the Glacier build plate, it hasn't even arrived yet, but now I'm hearing Bambu released their own version of this grippier build plate called the "Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack" Can you do a video comparison for us between BiQu's Cryogrip and the new Bambu SuperTack?
Hello! Yes no problem at all, I actually just ordered the bambu super tack the other day. When that comes in I can compare the three plates. Supertack vs Glacier vs Frostbite.
I have the SuperTack and it's already peeling after like 3 prints. The adhesion is too good, so I'd avoid printing things with a big flat bottom...they sent me a replacement but I'm probably just gonna sell it lol
@@ThePrintasaurus From my own experience I find that hard to believe. I was printing PLA at their recommended temps for both the nozzle and bed, yet it still peeled off the coating. Never encountered such problem with their PEI plates. Honestly, I hate how the CryoGrip blue color looks on the A1 but I might have to give it a try...
@@xKenn I have been using the Glacier as my primary plate at this point, and I have not had the quality issues mentioned. I did receive an "early" plate, I wonder if something happened in the manufacturing process? I saw on one of the forums someone with the Frostbite had what looked like hair under the coating. Now that the supertack plate is out, I have been using that profile in Bambu Studio with my Glacier plate and have had a lot of success printing with it. With the X1 I just leave the build plate detection off. But I have been using the standard temps with it and have not had any lifting or plate issues. I hope this does not become the trend, I have had a few already mentioned some issues with the supertack quality as well. As an added bonus - we lost power yesterday for about 3, 3.5 hours. I lost a print on my pei plate because it released, but the glacier the parts stayed in place and I was able to resume that print and save it. So there is a lot of potential in these coatings for sure. I just hope if there is a current quality issue on the plates they have released now that it gets resolved. I'll email BTT and mention these concerns too.
Yes. I should of added that. Will get something in the description to reference. But to answer your questions. The Frostbite has a AR code on the plate that pins it to the textured PEI Plate in bambu Studio. I ran the bed temp at 35c first layer and 30c other layers for PLA. It worked well at 30c and 30c too. For PETG I went with 50C initial layer, and 50C other layers and had zero issues. For the Glacier build plate - the recommend AR code to use based on the stickers provided was the cool plate. So you would use the cool plate in bambu studio. 45c first layer, and 45c other layers for that one and it works fantastic with PLA. 60c worked great with PETG.
@@ThePrintasaurus I own a glacier and was wondering if I would better set the plate to Cool Plate SuperTack? The Cool Plate preset has 0c for Generic PETG and 35c for Generic PLA while the Cool Plate SuperTack has 70c for Generic PETG and 45c for Generic PLA. Is it better to change the Cool Plate Temperature settings or is it better to choose the Cool Plate SuperTack? Do the plate presets differ in other settings than the filament temperature?
@@martymcbro I looked through the machine G-code just to see if there was anything added recently for Z-offset. The only Z-offset adjustment is for the textured PEI plate, it moves it to Z -0.04mm. I put that output below if you were interested in how it looks. ;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing == ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”} G29.1 Z-0.04 ; for Textured PEI Plate So based on that it appears that the other build plates use the same z-offset, which is what I would of been concerned with. You should be good to use the new supertack. That build plate came out right after this video was released or it would of been a great test. You will need to turn off build plate detection as there is no sticker for that one if you are using a X1.
@ThePrintasaurus Thank you for the investigation. I will try this again. I already tried the Coolplate SuperTack setting for the Glacier with one PLA print of a christmas deer, but the legs of the deer kept falling at some point resulting in a failed print. I tried this twice. However, another print with PETG and a larger base area finished succesfully with this setting.
I am testing ABS now on the Glacier build plate. I have used Bambu, and Polymaker for testing so far, at the recommended manufacturer bed temps. Both have stuck without issue, so far good adhesion. I'm going to walk back temps and continue to test till adhesion fails or I have warping issues with the ABS. So far things are looking great with ABS. I'll move onto ASA after a few more test cycles.
Yes I had some curling initially, which I realize made it into my video. Wet filament was the culprit there. I had it break in the ams twice, soon as I dried it. Things went back to optimal and adhesion was back to what I was seeing throughout testing. Thanks for watching and thanks for the support!
What is the adhesion number for PEI? We don't know. So 8 and 10 from Biqu is only relative to each other (i.e, the actual numbers don't matter, they could be 80/90 or any numbers as long as one was slightly less then other). The higher numbers simply imply that they are good numbers (well, unless it's out of 100). PEI is _designed to release when cooled. I'd say if they all held just fine when printing and the Biqu plates did not release as well when cooled, that the Bambu PEI plate actually performed better. Certainly the layer test showed the Frostbite plate failing during a PLA print (what is actually designed to print better). No testing is show for the PEI plate. You _say_ the Biqu adhesion is better then the Biqu plate but the only print you show has them all performing the same during the print. Now at the end you do seem to agree that the PEI is just as good as the Biqu plates but then, out of the 3, recommend the Glacier. I do thank you for taking the time to make the video and it was worth watching from start to finish.
Appreciate your inputs. All good points. It is hard to really find or set a "base" to compart all plates too. Especially when it comes to an adhesion standard. I was simply working off what BTT advertises as there adhesion numbers. Where the PEI plate falls on that scale after using all three I would say the PEI plate is a high 6 or 7. Which is something I should of said in my video! Something that I do find and like with the Glacier plate - which is my go to plate at the moment. We lost power the other day for about 3.5 hours. I had two prints running one with the Glacier plate and one with my go to PEI plate. The pei plate release and my print failed as a result. The Glacier plate held and I was able to recover once the power was back on and continue the print. So there is benefit there. Ultimately I think doing plate reviews comes down to preference, and showing more examples might help in that process for someone to pick a plate. I'll work on that. My goal when I set out to do this was to help people and provide more accurate reviews when I reviewed something good or bad. Appreciate your feedback!
Videos like this do help a lot. Please keep up your good work. Appreciate!
Thank you!!
Great video, informative and to the point. Surprised you don’t have more subs, but you definitely earned mine.
Appreciate it! Thanks for the support as well.
I see an added bonus for the cool plates is for power outages.
I was about 90% through a 40 hour print when the power went out overnight. I wasn’t able to resume printing in the morning because the Bambu textured build plate cooled down and the print had released from the plate.
In comparison to other plates, this is possible especially with the frostbite plate. I left those plates out for a few hours to do that test, and the grip they maintain I don't think it would be an issue to keep things held till power is restored.
Solid video. Thanks. Considering these for purchase on my X1C.
Let me know which one you end up going with. They both worked great! I've been using the Glacier non-stop.
Thanks for the video, i've purchased the glacier plate along with some pla-hr to print an airless basketball
Awesome, interested to hear if the basketball works!
Took the 7 days for biqu to finally send out and hopefully not 25 days to get here but I ordered a set of Glacier and I have a bambu supertack waiting for me when the post workers finish striking, it was a day away when they started the strike unfortunately and the quicker delivery will be preferred for me coming straight from bambu if the plate results are the same. Then its down to whichever lasts longer.
Hopefully that strike is over soon, if not already. I'm sure you are excited to try those new plates! I have a bambu Supertack that still hasn't come in, but will test when it does. My go to plates now are the Glacier, I'm going to revisit after a few hundred print hours and do a comparison to the PEI plate I typically used to see how well they have held up. I'll incorporate the super tack plate as a test to that as well!
Did you get your plates? Curious how things are going.
@@ThePrintasaurus no strike is still on for the bambu plates, and I ordered from biqu website on 22 nov and it says usually takes 25 days but hopefully sooner.
@@ThePrintasaurus took 21 days to arrive but the glacier plates are in my possession still no bambu plate yet.
@@thefriendlessgamer8552 Finally! I have been using the bambu supertack profile lately with the glacier plates and things have been working great!
I'd like to see what settings change when using the different plates.
I played around with the lower end of the recommended built plate temps for the Glacier and Frostbite. I didn't experience any print quality issues so I used my standard print profiles. Aux fan off for PLA. Let me know what settings your curious about and I can test and get back to you.
why do i continually get an error when it reads the qr code to detect the plate
Which plate are you using, which plate in your slicer? For the Frostbite is should be your textured plate. For the glacier it will be whichever sticker you put on. I turn the build plate detection off, and just set things up manually. I did have a few failures with the frostbite and getting the correct build plate reading. If you turn it off, just make sure you have your plates clear, and installed so you don't have any surprises. I have got busy and forgot to check once or twice and almost ran a print with no bed installed!!
New A1 coming tomorrow, I have the glacier here from Amazon too. Recommend just going to that straight away?
I really like the glacier so far over my pei build plate. I would say go for it! It’s a very good build plate.
I was curious about the finish of the bottom of your test prints. I only have the Frostbite so I would have loved to see what the Glacier prints look like on the bottom.
Send me an email at theprintasaurus@gmail.com I can send you side by side pictures of the two plates. The Glacier is very similar to a PEI build plate texture, slightly less texture. The frostbite to me has an aggressive texture to it.
i just got the glacier and during nozzle cleaning a fair amount of the blue coating comes off and sticks to the nozzle 😬 is this normal?
Is this in the back middle section? That is normal, it's supposed to actually clean the nozzle. Once that wears the coating off a little and goes through a cycle or two of doing that you shouldn't have any further issues.
So I just ordered the Glacier build plate, it hasn't even arrived yet, but now I'm hearing Bambu released their own version of this grippier build plate called the "Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack" Can you do a video comparison for us between BiQu's Cryogrip and the new Bambu SuperTack?
Hello! Yes no problem at all, I actually just ordered the bambu super tack the other day. When that comes in I can compare the three plates. Supertack vs Glacier vs Frostbite.
I have the SuperTack and it's already peeling after like 3 prints. The adhesion is too good, so I'd avoid printing things with a big flat bottom...they sent me a replacement but I'm probably just gonna sell it lol
@@xKenn Thanks for sharing, so far I have about 100 hours or so on these cyrogrip plates and I have not had any quality issues yet.
@@ThePrintasaurus From my own experience I find that hard to believe. I was printing PLA at their recommended temps for both the nozzle and bed, yet it still peeled off the coating. Never encountered such problem with their PEI plates. Honestly, I hate how the CryoGrip blue color looks on the A1 but I might have to give it a try...
@@xKenn I have been using the Glacier as my primary plate at this point, and I have not had the quality issues mentioned. I did receive an "early" plate, I wonder if something happened in the manufacturing process? I saw on one of the forums someone with the Frostbite had what looked like hair under the coating.
Now that the supertack plate is out, I have been using that profile in Bambu Studio with my Glacier plate and have had a lot of success printing with it. With the X1 I just leave the build plate detection off. But I have been using the standard temps with it and have not had any lifting or plate issues. I hope this does not become the trend, I have had a few already mentioned some issues with the supertack quality as well.
As an added bonus - we lost power yesterday for about 3, 3.5 hours. I lost a print on my pei plate because it released, but the glacier the parts stayed in place and I was able to resume that print and save it. So there is a lot of potential in these coatings for sure. I just hope if there is a current quality issue on the plates they have released now that it gets resolved. I'll email BTT and mention these concerns too.
What plate setting do you choose for each in Bambu Studio?
+1 on this question! I was thinking to do the "Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack" but any help would be awesome.
Yes. I should of added that. Will get something in the description to reference. But to answer your questions. The Frostbite has a AR code on the plate that pins it to the textured PEI Plate in bambu Studio. I ran the bed temp at 35c first layer and 30c other layers for PLA. It worked well at 30c and 30c too. For PETG I went with 50C initial layer, and 50C other layers and had zero issues.
For the Glacier build plate - the recommend AR code to use based on the stickers provided was the cool plate. So you would use the cool plate in bambu studio. 45c first layer, and 45c other layers for that one and it works fantastic with PLA. 60c worked great with PETG.
@@ThePrintasaurus I own a glacier and was wondering if I would better set the plate to Cool Plate SuperTack? The Cool Plate preset has 0c for Generic PETG and 35c for Generic PLA while the Cool Plate SuperTack has 70c for Generic PETG and 45c for Generic PLA. Is it better to change the Cool Plate Temperature settings or is it better to choose the Cool Plate SuperTack? Do the plate presets differ in other settings than the filament temperature?
@@martymcbro I looked through the machine G-code just to see if there was anything added recently for Z-offset. The only Z-offset adjustment is for the textured PEI plate, it moves it to Z -0.04mm. I put that output below if you were interested in how it looks.
;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing ==
;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type}
{if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”}
G29.1 Z-0.04 ; for Textured PEI Plate
So based on that it appears that the other build plates use the same z-offset, which is what I would of been concerned with. You should be good to use the new supertack. That build plate came out right after this video was released or it would of been a great test. You will need to turn off build plate detection as there is no sticker for that one if you are using a X1.
@ThePrintasaurus Thank you for the investigation. I will try this again. I already tried the Coolplate SuperTack setting for the Glacier with one PLA print of a christmas deer, but the legs of the deer kept falling at some point resulting in a failed print. I tried this twice. However, another print with PETG and a larger base area finished succesfully with this setting.
Have you tested with ABS/ASA? I'm interested in nonblended versions
I am testing ABS now on the Glacier build plate. I have used Bambu, and Polymaker for testing so far, at the recommended manufacturer bed temps. Both have stuck without issue, so far good adhesion. I'm going to walk back temps and continue to test till adhesion fails or I have warping issues with the ABS. So far things are looking great with ABS. I'll move onto ASA after a few more test cycles.
Will there be an Ender 3 size bed version?
I am not sure. I can email the representative that sent me these plates and get back to you.
@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks, I have 4 ender 3s and those sound great!
I can see some curling on the gingerbread house pieces.
Yes I had some curling initially, which I realize made it into my video. Wet filament was the culprit there. I had it break in the ams twice, soon as I dried it. Things went back to optimal and adhesion was back to what I was seeing throughout testing.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the support!
What is the adhesion number for PEI? We don't know. So 8 and 10 from Biqu is only relative to each other (i.e, the actual numbers don't matter, they could be 80/90 or any numbers as long as one was slightly less then other). The higher numbers simply imply that they are good numbers (well, unless it's out of 100). PEI is _designed to release when cooled. I'd say if they all held just fine when printing and the Biqu plates did not release as well when cooled, that the Bambu PEI plate actually performed better. Certainly the layer test showed the Frostbite plate failing during a PLA print (what is actually designed to print better). No testing is show for the PEI plate. You _say_ the Biqu adhesion is better then the Biqu plate but the only print you show has them all performing the same during the print. Now at the end you do seem to agree that the PEI is just as good as the Biqu plates but then, out of the 3, recommend the Glacier. I do thank you for taking the time to make the video and it was worth watching from start to finish.
Appreciate your inputs. All good points. It is hard to really find or set a "base" to compart all plates too. Especially when it comes to an adhesion standard. I was simply working off what BTT advertises as there adhesion numbers. Where the PEI plate falls on that scale after using all three I would say the PEI plate is a high 6 or 7. Which is something I should of said in my video!
Something that I do find and like with the Glacier plate - which is my go to plate at the moment. We lost power the other day for about 3.5 hours. I had two prints running one with the Glacier plate and one with my go to PEI plate. The pei plate release and my print failed as a result. The Glacier plate held and I was able to recover once the power was back on and continue the print. So there is benefit there. Ultimately I think doing plate reviews comes down to preference, and showing more examples might help in that process for someone to pick a plate. I'll work on that. My goal when I set out to do this was to help people and provide more accurate reviews when I reviewed something good or bad. Appreciate your feedback!
I would like to see some ABS, PC and nylon.
I have some PC and nylon due in soon. Once I have it, I will put up another video testing the Glacier and how well it works with other filaments!