Which is the best, the Bambu Super Tack or the BIQU Frostbite or Glacier?
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- I've heard stories of not using glue stick, but it was always unobtainable with heavy duty prints, but... my hope has been rekindled with these solid options.
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I'm on a mission to make more and better content for you, my hope is that this video sheds some light on this new generation of buildplates so you can decide for yourself if what they say their products can do is actually what they do. I've tried to make this format of video as much Like Project Farm's as I could, I really enjoy his work and I make this video in his format out of respect.
I hope you enjoy this format and I forgot to personally thank my Patrons in the video so thank you for all of your support over this past year, the channel is getting close to being sustainable!
Nowhere Stair - makerworld.com...
Warplerone - makerworld.com...
#1 Top Performer - Bambu Super Tack - shrsl.com/4sjgn
#2 Runner Up - BIQU Frostbite - shrsl.com/4sjgo
#3 Great for High Temp with No Glue - BIQU Glacier - shrsl.com/4sjgq
QIDI PLUS4 - qidi3d.com/pro...
QIDI Q1 Pro - qidi3d.com/pro...
Thermal Master P2 - shrsl.com/4o6j1
Bambu X1C - shrsl.com/4j1gz
Bambu Filament Shown in Videos - shrsl.com/4ks0j
#3dprinting
#bambu
#bambulab 
Хобби
Thank you. I almost ordered a Glacier but then the SuperTack was announced, and I waited a comparison test like this, so thx again!
I enjoy the ProjectFarm approach.
Great video, thank you. It is very timely for me personally as I just recently got 1 of each of these plates. I was really surprised to hear you say you use glue stick. I've been 3d printing for many years and with the exception of printing PC, I haven't used glue stick since PEI surfaces became a thing. If you have adhesion issues these days, it's generally fixed by cleaning the build plate and possibly bumping the bed temperature a little. With PC, the glue stick is needed because otherwise it sticks too well.
This was my exact thought. Why is he using glue sticks to begin with. Back with my original ender 5 years ago was the only time i ever needed to use glue sticks and even then it was only on occasion or with glass.
It was surprising for me to hear too.
I haven't been printing long but I hate messy things like glue so I've always refused to use glue stick. I started with an Ender 3 v2 with the glass bed and had successful adhesion for a while but I guess the coating wore out even though the coating looks fine so I finally switched to a PEI bed sheet and have been really happy with it.
Same. PEI entering the market basically eliminated the need for glue stick outside of a release agent. Even a badly calibrated 1st level will stick for most filament types if you have the temp set high enough. Bigger risk is PETG sticking TOO well if that is your approach vs fixing your first layer problem itself. Glue stick was king before PEI, now it should more be a sign you have a problem to diagnose if its anything other than a release agent use.
Because glue stick works, and improves hold.
If you haven’t seen the benefit of glue stick on some prints, you’re printing some pretty simple, basic stuff. That’s OK. But why not take all precautions?
@@MattWeberI LOVE it. LOVE IT! Your comment is so perfect. “Glue stick will make PETG stick too well.” And then “If you’re using glue stick as anything but a release agent…” - Pick one, glue stick sticks too well, or helps with release. I LOVE IT! What a great example of someone that only regurgitates what they read, and doesn’t actually have their own experiences.
Finaly someone tested glacier with ABS. Thank you :)
I’ve been using the Thekkiinngg double sided PEI build plates on my MK3 and now all my X1Cs for thousands of prints and have never once needed glue! Most people have never heard of Thekkiinngg but look them up! $35/plate not cheap but I’ve been using the same 3 plates in my X1Cs on a single side. Haven’t even needed to flip sides after thousands of prints over the last several years! Amazing build plates!
I have never used glue stick on my mk3s smooth pei sheet for pla, abs or PC. The only time I have used it is for TPU as that sticks too well. I am surprised that he used it for pla on his bambu lab. I would have thought it be the same as a Prusa PEI sheet.
I have six glacier plates and two gray cryo’s. They are the only plates I use now. Superb performance.
I can tell from running them since they have come out that the Bambu plate sticks best ( to good) some items can't be pulled with breaking. The blue plates are also good but slight less adhesion. I have been using them in my shed at 30 degrees with my print farm and even the cold out there does not effect my prints, game changer. I have 4 weeks on the Bambu sticky and they seem to be holding up good, the blue plates are also holding up good and I have had them for 2 months about. I haven't even washed them, each of the 12 plates I own go right back in the machine for another print.
Soap and water ? Sir you just earned yourself a like !
You have become my go-to controlled testing channel. I have one of each of the Biqu somewhere between Hong Kong and Cinicnnati right now. So this video is a very timely release for me. So it looks like I'll be ordering the Super Tack next. Or will once they have them back in stock.
So I got a hold of a CryoGrip Pro (Glacier) and have been doing my own testing -- I wasn't thrilled with the performance until I remembered that the X1C has a weird bed-leveling technique (from my testing and understanding of the docs) in that I believe if you have a LIDAR unit, it uses that as part of the calculation, otherwise it sticks to the nozzle touch feedback sensor.
The blue color seems to throw it off and I had to adjust the Z-Offset to about -0.06mm. This is different than the texture plates having deep textures which also throw off the Z-Offset. I had to do this before with a yellow color plate. I think they calibrate the LIDAR's on the base gray of all their plates.
As for the filament LIDAR-based calibration procedures, they didn't work for me. They also didn't work on the yellow plate I have. The odd-colored plates seem to be really picky on what filament colors the scan picks up, which makes me think their algorithm is tuned for the neutral-gray shades of their own plates to filter out (you can see this with some 3d-scanners).
Just posting for anyone who maybe struggling with these plates.
Also, the QR Code supplied does work, but it has to be in the proper orientation as BambuLab doesn't scan in all rotations, I noticed some other people online saying the supplied codes don't work and their QR's were stuck upside down (check an official plate pic for the proper orientation).
Sorry, I love your channel but your adhesion testing is flawed. You're testing the holding strength after the plates have been removed from the printer and are cooled down. Once cooled down we don't care if they stick anymore, in fact we'd rather they not. The relevant number would be holding strength while the plates are still warm on the heated print bed.
You have a point, but the cooled down test actually simulates the worst condition which shows how prints really stick to the plate.
Right, but it's useful to know if my prints would survive a power outage
@@karmapolice9477 They're "cool plates". If your running them cold, what's the difference? 🤷
It would be representative of a power loss recovery.
With PEI the part is 100% toast once the bed cooled off.
But you're right that's not what he said he was testing and it's just a weird way to test overall. How heavy the print needs to be on that contact patch to fall of on its own?...
My tech fun did a video with a strain gage tested on both hot and cold conditions pulling both sideways (like nozzel dragging would cause) and perpendicular to the plate. I'm not sure he had the bambu plate yet, i think it was just the 2 blue ones.
Cool, when you make a test video and post it let us know.
I finally got mine on order as well. Not only for the low temp printing, but also for it's smoother texture compared to the BBL textured PEI plate. I also want to try the patterned plates from Juupine, like the honeycomb/squares.
Interesting video! It would have been helpful to see how the standard Bambu Cool Plate did in comparison. I have two of them which I use with my Kickstarter X1C for PLA printing with Windex as the release agent. I’m reluctant to change build plates when the Cool Plates work so well.
Love your model names as always, hahaha.
Finally someone tested it with PA, thank you so much!
though plain PA would have been better ;)... i did tset PA12 today, no glue, brim, enlarged version of warplerone. passively heated chamber, corner lifted but pretty minor. There's hope
Great video. I appreciate the testing and like the test methods that were applied.
I would suggest.... sadly.... doing the warping test all over again. The AUX fan shoots from the left side which is why warping happens most on the left side. Turn the AUX fan off in your filament settings and see how it changes. I have my aux fan completely off for all prints because it's goofy to have only one side being cooled like that.
I just came to this conclusion yesterday. Thank you for sharing that. Kinda confirming my insanity
I noticed increasing the temperature on the glacier to 55 and up to 60 for PLA improved the adhesion a lot, I know it defeats the purpose of being low temp plate
if a 10-hour print you saves about 6-7 cents on this plate (assuming $0.10/kWh electricity), you'd need to print for about 3600-4000 hours to justify the $25 price tag (if money is the only factor). The plate might wear out before it reaches that many hours.
money aside, these plates look like great choices.
Thanks, good review. I agree, we need plates for the Q1 Pro.
Great comparison, I was trying to find out why slim tree supports welded to my new Bambu SuperTack, guess it was the 70/250 Bambu PETG HF temps. I couldn't find the spreadsheets showing all the results?
very much liked the project farm style video, and now that you mention it, you two look very similar...
PF totally sold out with the click bait style thumbnails. Obnoxious now.
@@allwoundup3574always has been
obnoxious yes, but YT downranks non-clickbaity video thumbnails, kind of the same thing that they do with videos that don't serve mid-video ads.
@@allwoundup3574 unfortunately it's simply necessary in today's RUclips world. quality will always be overridden by complete junk simply based on a thumbnail image.
I did not notice any mention of this unusual Bambulab disclaimer on their Cool Plate SuperTack: "Due to ongoing optimization of the QR code recognition algorithm on the X1 model, we recommend disabling the build plate position detection."
Love the project form format!
I scuff my surface on my bed to help with adhesion. I use sand paper to scuff it and it makes a nice surface for the prints to stick too. I use pei off Amazon gizmo dorks 10.2 inch or something like that, I glued it to a Bambu plate. The pei came with adhesive already. I scuff that pei up which is a smooth pei but after scuff it has a nice texture.
Definitely curious to add one or two of these plates for my collection.
On a side note, I'm always surprised to hear experienced 3D printers talk about how much they use glue stick. I print both as a hobbyist and a professional, and I almost never use glue stick. I've found that the right surface at the right temperature almost never requires glue. Sure, that means that I have at least 3 types of build plates that i cycle through, but I also rarely ever have to deal with the sticky funk that glue leaves on a print.
Duuude perfect timing on this video, I just got one of wham bams XTR powder coated plates and I was wonder how thick it really was compared to my other plates. They boast a .6mm thick spring steel and it definitely feels beefy, though I dont really want to scrape off the coating to check for sure since the one I got was almost 100 bucks haha. I do know for sure that the overall thickness of my plate is .72mm thick, makes me want to do the deflection test just to see how it does. Bed adhesion is also great, It is noticeably sticky when clean and pla prints stick very well though i have not had it for very long so I have not done any materials other than pla at this time. I personally recommend these plates especially if your like me who does not own a bambu.
I have the textured PEI plate that came with the X1C printer and had zero adhesion issues so far even with tall objects with small footprint. I was even printing 6mm wide 15cm long axle from ABS standing up without problem. The only thing I do is finding best bed temp for each new filament, writing it down along with other parameters in excel for later use and cleaning the build plate with 99% IPA and fresh paper towel before each critical print. Never ever used even glue before.
Could you do the normal build plates without glue?
I don't use glue at all for any material ( except for PP)
Nice video!
I can't DL neither the stairs or the Warplerone, tried both filetypes!
Can you test ABS/ASA on the supertack?
Great video, they keep getting better..!
You're supposed to scratch or scuff up your PEI print bed from time to time to refresh the textured surface. Recommendations I have always followed is either steel wool or above 220 grit sandpaper and just lightly just to get the surface area of the bed up, because every scratch now makes more surface area for the plastic to stick to
Yup. Whole point of even being textured PEI was to add surface area, while also adding benefit of some first layer Z offest issues since it gives micro dips to bleed off excess pressure when Z is too close.
Thank you... I keep telling people my Glacier sucks and that PEI does better, and all the BIQU fan boys keep telling me it's me, and that I must be doing something wrong. Vindication. I've found the Glacier does well if I run it 10° HOTTER than PEI
can we expect these build plates for other printers?
What detergent/soap was used to clean these plates? Some detergent/soap has IPA in it.
What about the corners on large prints?
"... stick around--" 👍 nice
It would be ideal to see repeated tests instead of a sample size of one. I’m also curious about glue sticks because I have hundreds of prints on in X1C using the textured PEI plate, and the only failures I have had were after not cleaning for a while, going between multiple different materials, and having touched the plate, but not bothering to wash it. This tech has come a long way since I started printing back in the days of the Prusa Mendel and original i3, where are used to just do hairspray or kapton or painters tape on thick glass.
Nice. Let's talk about your bearing collection though...sweet...
Hi, have you tried the WhamBam PEX plate?
I used one religiously on my Creality K1, and I have ordered one for my P1S... not sure if it's the best, but for me it had superb adhesion with no glue stick, was smooth, held on to prints after cooling but was still easy to remove them. It's EXPENSIVE... and makes me think I should have got the Super Tack
Thanks for telling me the bambu lab one is incompatible with Silk. It saves me the cost of buying one and leaving it on a shelf for the rest of time.
LOL I have sanded (actually used steel wool) my build plates so often to "rejuvenate" the plate. PEI tends to loose adhesion after 6 to 9 months of daily usage. A quick rub with steel wool and especially the smooth side is back to new (if not even better as you said).
Why on earth do you use glue stick. My PEI sheets (RatRig and no-name Ali) are just wiped with window cleaner (Glassex) only after a few prints. Once a month I wash them with water and soap. That is all you need. PETG and TPU will even stick too good, so I leave a bit of the window cleaner on the plate to reduce the stickiness.
I use Scotch Brite red pads on all of my PEI buildplate smooth sides, and it works incredibly well - so well that one of my LDO plates had a chunk rip out of the smooth side with an ABS print just because I didn’t wait for the build plate to cool all the way.
At least with the Scotch Brite, I can go at least 20 or 30 prints before I have to do any kind of cleaning. If I’m printing PETG, I will put glue stick down, but that’s only being used as a release agent.
Fun thing with all these fancy new build plate surfaces.. After having several of my build plate surfaces be destroyed by too good adhesion I have kind of gone the opposite way, because I always use some kind of as I like to call it, release layer, in my case these days a brushed on dilued layer I magigoo of the correct version for the filament, I have given life to my old damaged sheets by removing the plastic sheet and putting magigoo directly on the metal sheet, as none of my prints touch the build plate anyway, works great for me :)
i have trouble getting petg to stick to the glacier plate any tips
I didn’t know that Project Farm was into 3-D printing now.
(I post 20 seconds before you mention PF.. :/ )
What about the ability to remove a large surface area piece on a still warm plate. Sometimes, you can't get a plate to release, and I feel like these might be difficult.
Could you try PHA? I’m having trouble getting it to stick (3DLac seems to work but I’d rather not use adheisive).
Project Farm name drop!
I would like to have my favorite Surface i use already for almost a Decade in every Printer without magnetic Plates, its simply called Pertinax.
I already forgot that Warping and Adhesionproblems exist and the A1 Mini i got reminded me that they still exists, i even have to use brim on PLA on the SuperTack to prevent Warping (depending on the Model of course), on Pertinax i only have to use Brim on ABS when the Model has sharp corners.
I recently began using the new Creality Epoxy Resin build plate.
I have been very impressed with it. No glue for PLA, PETG, ABS, and Nylon. The nylon was CF, and the ABS was GF, except for a few small parts from standard ABS.
Everything grips very well, better than PEI. I need to allow the plate to cool completely for the parts to self release, and even flexing needs the plate to cool a bit to work. You can hear a loud pop when you flex the plate, as the parts come free.
The bottom layer has a satin finish that I like better than the gloss or textured finish from typical PEI style plates.
It's worth a look for anyone using a Creality printer or a printer that uses the same size plate.
I would like to see a test of temp cycles to see if the surface holds up to the repeated changes in temps. This would be a good test of durability as many who constantly print AKA print farm are likely to see some sheets fail normally because of this.
Your prints were a small foot print, would like to see larger foot print model to see how well they can be removed when cooled and when nearly fully cold. Do they hold too well and if so does the sheet get damaged when model is removed using a scarper.
What sort of damage can be expected if metal scraper is used to often.
Excellent, but you completely forgot needing glue as a release agent for some of my filaments that won't release easily, or leave residue in the valleys of the textured surface, i need glue to help them release without damage to model or plate.
How do you think these would do when printing with petg-cf?
Have you tested super tack with PETG without bed heat? What about pla silk, does it really stick to good?
I print on textured pei and had no problems with petg pla abs tpu wood pla so far. Maybe with petg and tpu a bit with release but nothing a spray of ipa could "solve" 😂
I don’t use glue for adhesion, I use it for pulling parts off the bed after the print
Which bed do you slice with when using the Biqu plates? I got incorrect plate errors whenever I tired to use one.
It depends on material you are using, for PLA i set it as a cool plate and adhesion is fantastic, PETG it must be set as textured PEI plate as example.
thnx for the info but i think you could have shown the compatibility with other filament types other than pla/petg. yes supertack and frostbite are best for pla/petg but you could have explained how glacier might possibly be the best plate for anything that isnt pla/petg.
For sure, I can always do a follow up video. I didn't delve into the Glacier too much but I did cover it near the end, showing the results of ABS and Nylon with the Glacier. IMO the Glacier is a great option for anything higher temperature... up to 300C nozzle temp. I think the results with no glue were impressive, HOWEVER it still requires mouse ears or a brim, and I'd set the brim closer than 0.1mm, I like to use .03mm to keep it nice and tight. Those higher temp filaments are still prone to warpage and the Bambu Printers aren't heated and though they do get to temperature after an hour or two, I was still seeing the tendency for the parts to warp. I do make my prints heavy duty, either solid or with heavy infill so maybe this isn't going to be an exact match to what most people do, but I usually like to go to the extreme to make sure we know what the worst case will be. In any case, you bring up a good point, I admit that I have tried to focus in on one subject a bit better, I will certainly keep your points in mind for future videos!
I got both BIQU plates some time ago, but only started using them recently. Tbh I thought the Glacier was just a different texture, I don't mind having it around but didn't use it yet.
I already damaged the Frostbite a tiny bit because its coating is not as robust as the golden textured PEI and I wasn't careful, but since the first print I did with it I didn't change plates. It's a really nice plate and is a lot of fun to work with!
The Supertack is new to me, and while I would probably not get it for the P1S it's nice to see it's available for the A1 Mini, because there's no BIQU for that one (yet?).
Thanks for the elaborate test :)
There is a Biqu for the A1 min, it came out recently :)
@PJ-oe6eu I didn't know, thank you! Currently it's not available on their site and I didn't see it anywhere else, should be available soon enough tho I bet :)
Still might try the Supertack, as I again accumulated enough points for an 80€ payout from Bambu, so it's kinda free 🙈
2:25 I am having a laugh that a plate designed to be used cooler than any others, conversely boasts the spec of having a handle to keep from burning oneself.
I chuckled at that as well.
having a car that can do 40MPG doesn't mean it can't at the same time have the capability to go 200MPH
@@V843v3r Yes, but also that's an implication you could use these plates at 'normal' bed temperatures, and that can cause permanent bonding then destruction to occur.. so these plates can't reliably do 200MPH I'm afraid.
@@Roobotics except it doesn't cause permanent bonding, I have both, only the glacier can handle high temp and that's the only one that has the hex handle. The frostbite(the one that you said woudl bond too tight and can only print low temp) has the normal solid handle
@@V843v3r I'm not above admitting I might be wrong about that then. Now I can't remember what someone did to fuse a print to their super tak plate that ripped it up removing.. But also possible their z-height was just too close. The 'squish' some of these plates have, seems to mess with strain gauge style z-probes.
How about G10/Garolite ?
Perfect for nylon
I'm a qidi user so I'd like to see what they do to compete with the super tack
Question: Do you change nozzle when you go from PLA to PETG. and back.
Most people wouldn't
there is no need
I am puzzled by this Bambu supertack cool plate. Almost like there is some undisclosed variance in them, because my experience is horrible compared to what I read on the internet. I purchased 6pcs of the 256mm supertack plates and they do not adhere well at all. Only works OK at textured PEI temperatures. Cleaned with dishsoap as I do with all other plates. Tested on 3 different systems with both 0,2 and 0,4 nozzle. Tested both orcaslicer and bambustudio with different plate settings. The adhesion is not non-existent but they are not good and I can only dream about printing at much lower temps. The parts I have printed are easy as well. Cube shaped bonding box with a large footprint. Got a support topic open and the fist response was to lower first layer speeds, which I did to some extent already but they suggested 8mm/s contour 14mm/s infill for a 0,2 nozzle. In the process of testing but it seems strange given the claims of lower temp printing and all good experiences. For context I have 3 of the frostbites and 3 of the glaciers since before and have found them useful for specific cases. My impression is that the frostbites have far better adhesion than the bambu supertacks I have.
I don't see much point in turning off the bed heater, a few cents is worth it if it reduces the number of failures even a little.
Fantastic tests. So much better than My Tech Fun.
Does these works with ABS/ASA?
Just testing the "super tack" plate from Bambu in my X1C. Gave me an error that the Lidar can't read the plate type! If you bypass this error then the X1C will print the first layer in the air to boot. My Bambu Studio and printer are at the latest level. Doing a search I found that this is a common problem since back in November. I guess Bambu is aware of it but has provided no fix to date. How can they even put out a plate that their top line printer can't even read? Very poor to say the least! The only to get around this is to turn off "plate detection" in the device tab of Bambu studio. I just started printing your staircase to nowhere using a bed temp of 30 degrees to see if it will adhere all the way up. My end goal is to be able to run prints with the door closed to cut down the noise and still not go above 34 degrees in the chamber. Time will tell here before long 😉.
Well on my X1C I made it to almost 9 complete steps before it fell down using a bed temp of 30 degrees on the super tack. Was hoping to make it all the way but that's pretty good adhesion.
the super tack for me is just too strong of adhesion. i have to be mindful when picking it. only for hard to stick, or low contact surface area prints. otherwise it usually very very hard to get the print off.
I wanted a glacier for my ender 3v3 but I can't even find a slap dash generic on aliexpress.
but now I kinda want a super tack too. cryogrip for asa and tpu and super tack for pla and petg.
if I costs 30 usd it could pay for itself in a few hundred print hours in reduced bed heat wattage.
I don't know what calipers you are using but I would go check the precision tolerance it claims to have. Most of the time they're rated for 0.02 so the last digit on the screen isn't actually fully accurate. You have to know what the measurement error of the tool is and mentally apply it to the reading.
they don't lie about this on the paper it comes with. It's just a detail many people forget or don't read on it.
I use glass with hairspray. The glass is easy to clean with soap + water. The hairspray is pretty cheap. I use ABS, PETG and PLA.
Hairspray is a good option (or use the special spray glue for 3D printing... which is essentially hairspray as well). Adheres very well when the build plate is hot, and the items pop right off when it cools down.
What about durability? My Bambu Smooth PEI has visible marks (no scratches, just marks of previous prints) after just one month of using :(
I got the Frostbite on Pre-order as soon as it launched and have used it ever since i think that was like 4 months or so ago and no signs of damage and adhesion is still great.
Glacier can work with materials other than pla & petg tho, imo thats an edge over super tack and frostbite
IMHO the future is (should be) to avoid the messy glue by using the right plate for the right materials.
I bought a cryplate, its fantastic and everything grips perfectly but it has a noticeable odor, has anyone else had this problem?
Hmm. I don't really every have adhesion issues and I don't use any additives. My regime is just to wash with dish soap and hot water, simple green concentrate, then warm water and dab gently with brand new paper towel after shaking excess water off. No touching EVER! Everything sticks always.
The discord link is invalid D: I want to join but have not been able to!
I would have liked the bambu cool plate in compairson
I don't see any point in these plates when they only work with PLA and PETG - those work very well on normal PEI as well. Now if these worked for PC, PA and similar, that would be a different story, but these plates are solving a problem that just does not exist. Wash your textured PEI with detergent and it will work as good as these fancy plates. For energy savings, it would take thousands of print hours to save as much energy to warrant the price of these plates - and their lifespan is not unlimited either.
that's not true, if you print lots of things with very small adhesion area, even a clean plate can fail you. especially when printing multicolour flexis, it would be a great relief to know they wont come off midway through the print.
to be fair - PLA and PETG are the most common materials used for 3D printing due to how easy they are to print with minimal warpage. Having buildplates that can stick these materials extremely well and others less so still means a large portion of 3D printer owners are still covered and therefore the buildplates *should* sell well.
I would like to see engineering variants that target the likes of ABS, ASA and Nylon though. I mean PEI does a great job with ABS in my own testing so long as you have an enclosure but having something that could effectively glue an ABS part to the bed without too many platform addons would be a huge boon.
PLA and PETG can definitely warp at corners if you're printing something large enough.
One case is that low temp sheets work after power loss. A heated bed may detach the print as it cools. Not a big problem in the developed world, however.
PETG and PLA can warp easily. And small parts with very little adhesive surface can peal of easily.
So MY benefits are:
1) Lower Temp = Lower Cost
2) Lower Temp = Door/Lid closed on PLA (less noise)
3) Less Warping
4) Less peal of with tiny parts
The Frostbite costs me 20€ ... fair deal for my 4 points I guess. I print 70% PLA and 30% PETG ...
I think the 180 grit paper is too coarse for a realist age test. I'd go with at least 400 grit. However, it didn't seem to matter anyway so ...
The Super Tack adheres too well in my opinion. Makes it extremely difficult to remove tiny parts. The Glacier and Frostbite fit my needs the best.
I'm still wondering how these would perform with PHA filament. Has anyone ever tried that?
In theory it seems like a match made in heaven, given that PHA needs a cold bed and has adhesion issues on traditional surfaces.
What are you going to do with so many staircases? 🤔
Love your content, but I think that at least 3 samples should be printed for each surface, and the mean value should be used. Talking about printing surfaces, with this new generation printers, people are starting to print different material. A content about the best surfaces for materials like PA, PC, ASA, for example.
Thank you for the video and comparisons. I gotta tell ya, you are using the glue stick in the wrong way. The most efficient and effective way I have found is to apply about 6-10 stripes evenly spaced across the build surface. Then take some 99% Iso and do a few wipes to spread the glue stick out across the whole surface. The result is way less glue used, a very thin layer of glue laid down, zero mess or post processing needed, and better adhesion throughout the print. Redo the application process every 8-12 prints for continued results.
I have been using the same elmers glue stick for the last year with almost half of the stick still there to start 2025.
disappointend by yet another showdown where the glacier is tested outside its intended use. So we still have no clue if it's any good with ASA, ABS, PA, ...
Watch the whole vide0?
@@riba2233 indeed ! Apologies. Somehow watched almost all of it but not quite all. My initial test with PA12 "vanilla" and an enlarged version of the waprlerone tells me it's quite good but not good enough for the extreme parts...
Is it just me or does the supertac have a really bad smell to it?
You use gluestick on every print? On a PEI plate? Ugh
So could you do first layer at 295°C then do subsequent layers at 300+?
Getting some serious project farm vibe. Hope they make a Prusa version.
I wanna know wtf you guys are printing..
I never have print failures on my stock p1s unless I change between materials and don’t wash the plate. I rarely use glue stick only if the area touching the plate is small
hotglue gang
so far, yt 3dp bloggers discovered this things
1) bed plates have diiferent adhesion
2) thick steel is better for warping
3) u can use buildplate without glue
4) u can print smth another than pla
5) sanding is not aging, but for better adhesion
too bad that, again, all those reasons were obvious to simple people for years.
any of this adhesion tests cant compare too pei WITHOUT glue, it wiil outrun any of them and is free. if u need ALL adhesion, u can print pla on glass. it wiil need tons of force to dispatch.
p.s. who even uses gluesticks nowadays ? isnt soluble glues invented in your part of youtube? or is this 2014`s old vid reupload ?
🤦♂️ don't skip piIIs buddy
Wieder ein Video, das nicht in meiner Sprache vorgeschlagen wurde.
From Biqu I have blue flecks over all in my Prints 👎
Man, that duct you're using is STRUGGLING on the cooling.
For the love of god please dont touch build surface with naked fingers.
So ein schlechtes Video habe ich schon lange nicht mehr gesehen. Qualität null