The indents and cutouts in the injection moulded part aren't only originally there to save on material cost but more importantly to preserve shape when casting, since the demoulding shrinkage causes thick parts to dimple and warp. Just something engineers get drilled into them pretty hard to always design with near-constant wall thickness. Absolutely love your redesign.
@@joserafael9913 When injection molding parts you need to keep in mind how they will cool after injection. If a part has a thick section, it will cool slower than a thinner section and this can cause warping. To prevent this, during design, a part that will be injection molded should be designed to have close to constant wall thickness wherever possible to prevent or reduce warping during cooling.
I have spent the last couple weeks trying to find a process for 3D printing a replacement fan blade that has a larger radius but kept have rubbing issues with parts I cannot remove and adding material to the fan itself kept making it untenable to 3D print. Finally I realized I just needed to print a mounting plate to got between the motor and the fan blade. The (hopefully) final version is printing right now. Design for the process indeed.
just fyi, injection molded parts are required to not have large areas of plastic, as they will take too long to cool and cause sink marks on the surface, thats why there are "lightening cuts" its not because of material cost.
I love the mad scientist experimentation. So glad to see you redesigned it, because the first thought I had was it was a bad design with weak points. Chamfers and fillets are our friends. Great work.
Excellent video, as an industrial designer & professional model maker in the past, that was one of my first takeaways when I started designing for my first 3D printer 10 tears ago. I love making replacement parts and fixing stuff using my design skillset, and working with the limitations of FDM printing to achieve results. You're doing a great job of educating the masses, with those subtle bits of trickery.
Thats cool! Actually did some "remelting" experiments some months ago as well. I tried embedding printed parts into one-time-use "temporary" molds, being a) compressed salt powder and b) heat-resistant silicone. interestingly, my primary issue as well was plastic "bubbling" out of the form. So I am pretty sure this was not related to the release agent you used. I was able to minimize the issue by tempering the part at 90°C , moisture seems to be the primary issue. But also any air caught inside will expand! And the plastic itself too, to some degree. PC and PETG was affected heavily by this. PLA worked much better. But I never got rid of it entirely. I stopped further experiments because I think I've found an alternative solution for my use case. But I really hope to see more insight and progress on this topic in the future. Would be so powerful to reach isotropic/injection molded quality!
As you mentioned salt you got me curious! I've seen recently some experiments on annealing 3d printed parts and I've been thinking about trying that but with the part suspended in fine salt and heating the salt around it as evenly as possible with temperature sensors close to the part, have you tried something quite like this or was the setup different? Does it anneal the part in a similar manner as they do with injection molded parts?
Instead of printing moulds you could use salt annealing. You pack the part in salt and then put it in the oven. That way you don't need a mould for each different part. CNC Kitchen tried this with good results. The biggest problem was the coarseness of the salt patterning the surface of the part. Maybe there is a finer material that could replace the salt. Or as you say just design the parts better for 3D printing. Great video. Keep up the good work.
Good call. You could just grind the salt finer in a spice grinder to fix the surface quality issue. Plus it would help it pack better. It would be interesting to test the new design in PLA and PTEG CF/GF and salt anneal it to see the strength difference.
I’m impressed with your matte PLA version. Matte filament typically has worse layer adhesion than standard PLA, but with your design improvements, those kicked ass. I’d probably used something with glass or carbon fiber though, particularly for a workshop part like that.
I personally would love a way to injection mold stuff not because I need something that can only be injection molded but because I have dozens of kilograms of support material and failed prints that I could recycle that way
Have you watched the Teaching Tech videos about his journey with this? Wasn't a huge success if I recall but was quite interesting. It seems like turning the scraps into new filament might be a better way, but you have to have kept your different plastics separated otherwise you have issues in the extrusion and then printing process.
@@BenWolkWeiss the problem with recycling back to filament is that even if it's clean it's still going to be much lower quality than from a manufacturer, and unless you want to convert an old 3d printer to a filament machine you'd be spending way more than you're ever going to make back. I've seen a few creators attempt both filament extrusion and injection molding, and it never seems useful enough to invest money in sadly
I haven't tried this, but for separating those molds, you might try designing in some jack screws. Put some more threaded inserts into the face that touches the other half of the mold, but put the clearance hole for the screw through the same half instead of the opposite half. On the opposite half, you might want to put a recess to glue in a bit of metal for wear resistance (a washer for a smaller-diameter screw perhaps). Then, when demolding, thread in a screw and use it to bear against the opposite half.
Seeing how you re-designed this to be more appropriate for it's fabrication method was really helpful as a mindset to keep in for the future - especially with such impressive results after!
I used the salt method to remelt and fuse printed PETG parts with success. You should give it a try if you haven't already. Small features became rather tough and stretched quiet a bit instead of snapping off.
I made a button like that to replace my broken microwave door button. Mine had the same problem with weak tangs but all I needed to do was to change the print orientation so that the layer lines are in the long dimension so if turned out very strong. The side effect was that the face of the button was now lined instead of the prefect flat face it previously was. But that was not a big issue and the button has been in my microwave for months now. It actually did break once but I adjusted something (I forgot what, some dimension) to make it more reliable and now it's good. One of the things I added was to fillet the base of the tang to give it a little bit more material and that made a big difference.
Love your vids man. Interesting idea. But I’ll just say I printed these in petg and they were fine, and if you printed in a high hardness tpu you’d never be able to break them! But I get that this was just a proof of concept for other future projects too.
I like the redesign features. Those tabs look significantly stronger with the curve to distribute the stress. The added spring was a cool idea as well.
I am really impressed by this idea and the execution! Obviously plenty of room for improvement, but this is so cool. Redesigning the part before using the "mold" would also make the "molding" process easier I think. Don't really need the injection molding voids anymore for example. The results of the melted PETG were surprising to me and also the look was very unsettling. I would like to see some ABS tests with some tweaks to the execution. I was wondering if the part partially melting and getting into all the voids and rough surface of the mold would be an issue. Dialing in the temperature just right may be important. Good stuff!
That's a cool idea and I'm glad you tried it even though it failed. It seems making a silicone mold of the part you want to reproduce and casing it in polyurethane would be a better way to go than a 3d printed annealing mold. Your final solution to redesign the part for optimal strength when printed is great.
Why would you even use the pins in the first place ? They are there to make an injection molding process possible but since you 3D print the part, just change the geometry instead. Your final design though is pretty good, well done.
I feel like you could make silicone molds for annealing that would work pretty well. Just pour around your part, cut it in half, put it back together, and anneal. As long as you don't go super liquid it should hold everything together well enough. Bonus points for making the mold in a box that can be heated originally, so that you have even less chance of any pressure pushing the mold out of shape.
Don't forget too, there are geometries you can't get with injection molding you can get with 3d printed parts, like serious undercuts and threads. Some molded parts with these features are VERY expensive to make molds for. Strengthening 3d printed parts is a cool exercise.
I use Plaster of Paris to mould my parts. Print the part, completely encase it in plaster, dry the plaster thoroughly, then bake at the melting point of the printed plastic. Chip away the plaster bulk, then soak the part in baking soda to dissolve the remaining plaster. Works great, but requires about a week total and is a total loss for the moulds. You don't get the part distortion that is common with salt or sand baths, and you don't get mould fouling. Still, it's a huge time investment, so you really have to want the parts re-flowed to eliminate the weak layers.
Great video. I have a workmate with not enough dogs so this will be great to try printing. I think I'll do it in PTEG though for the increased ductility vs PLA.
@needitmakeit Take high Temp silicone. Print the part. Make a mold from silicone with the printed part. Take a 3d printer Toolhead. Drill a hole on the upside of the oven. Place the mold into the oven. Heat up the oven. Place the Toolhead on the drilled hole. Extrude the filament directly into the silicone mold.
when modeling the mould you should include a slot on each side which lets you get a screwdriver in between the halves on each side to lever them apart rather than having to hammer it in. if you use two screwdrivers at once (one on each side) then you're also not applying any twisting force so it should come apart easier
Interesting. Would have been nice to see the same parts printed in regular PLA and tested as well. Carbon fiber supposedly makes everything more brittle.
Very interesting process. I took the simple road to replacing mine by making and/or replacing dogs using a hardwood block for the "Head" and hardwood dowel. I also made custom shaped "heads" for various holding methods. Made a box full in a hour. If they get chewed up, they go in the garbage.
Maybe another weak point to eliminate: Make the cylinder Solid to where the latches are and add an "inverted" Spring mechanism afterwards. This way, the clamping forces will not act on the Spring. 😊 Not sure if I described clear enough...
All my comments/recommendations were actually adressed in the last redesign. It shows that in order to work as necessary, parts need to be redesigned for the manufacturing process.
thanks for this! interesting approach to "reworking" a 3D print into an injection moulded one... 🤔 I wonder if it would be worth trying to seal the 3D printed PLA part in a 2-part silicone mold for remelting... I imagine it'd be rigid enough & a lot easier to demold ... hope you can give this a shot & looking forward to your next informative video!
One trick for stronger studs that have to be printed vertical is to design a small hole in it, far below the surface. Normal stud with fail by ripping the top layers it is printed on, by embedding a small hole it has an anchor point and you get the full strength of the layer adhesion.
To me, PLA is best suited for decorations and toys. I wouldn't make anything functional out of anything less than PETG but typically I'd move to to engineering filaments such as PA-GF, PA-CF or maybe even PC.
I'd torque an M8 bolt or similar through the part with large washers each side. PLA under compression over a large area is absurdly tough, preloads it from going into tension as much, just like they do with pre-stressed concrete for structural things.
As riba2233, what if we used this high temp plastic just as mould. With maybe a cone on the top to serve as a buffer for material, we could just put some plastic granulats and leave it melt and fill the mould in the oven with gravity.
@riba2233 I'm afraid it would start to make the thing complicated and it will reach the injection molding trigger what isn't a so easy task in diy I think. Anyway these new High Temp 3D printable polymers seems really cool.
Injection mold dies are highly polished and that does make a huge difference when it comes to part release.
3 дня назад
Engineering and problem solving in action! 💪💪💪 CF infused filament seems to be the way to go for absurdly strong parts but if it breaks, how safe is it to handle; will the fibres be problematic even after being printed?
Have you tried casting the mold out of silicone and using that as the high temp mold for the 3D printed part mold? oomoo makes different 2part silicone molds that you can bake to higher temp.
Those are the only plastic parts of my Workmate that aren't broken 😀. It's all the other parts I need! I may try printing some anyway, as I need bench dogs for an MFT bench, and if I can get good prints on my Qidi Q1 Pro I could use the ideas to design what I need.
I wonder if we can make a more "flex" mold, by using a strong metal box filled with sand, we can put the part into the sand box, compress the part with sand and put it inside the oven? If this method work, it will allow annealing with a little more complex part.
You can add some groves to your part and then just add nylon (or any other strong rope) under tension to it and then add some epoxy or CA glue to fix it in place. Should be faster than your approach.
For part shrinkage could you do a calibration cube with a precise Z height setting to actually measure the shrinkage? If you print at a higher than ambient temp then the chamber temp shouldn't be a variable.
I love matte PLA but I've read multiple times that it (silk too) is weaker than standard. Also, how are you liking the Biqu CryoGrip plate? I've been using a SliceWorx flex bed for months and loving it. I saw the Biqo on a BlackFriday sale, it's being delivered today for a second printer.
You really dont need a mould. You can just buy some moulding sand and compress around the parts. Has the exact the same effect and can be reused indefinitly.
Very interesting.. but why not creating a rib between the two endpoints? They need to flex just a bit, but they do not need to be exact copy of the original molded part. However, love the experiment…thanks you for sharing?
as a 3d printing project, this is pretty great. as a wood working fix, just use a hard wooden dowel that fits in the hole. most normal dogs are round dowels anyway, and the workmate only uses that weird shape so that you can get a very low edge on one side.
I'd be curious to see what happens if you encased the parts in plaster of Paris rather than a printed form. It may well have been done, but I haven't seen it.
The indents and cutouts in the injection moulded part aren't only originally there to save on material cost but more importantly to preserve shape when casting, since the demoulding shrinkage causes thick parts to dimple and warp. Just something engineers get drilled into them pretty hard to always design with near-constant wall thickness. Absolutely love your redesign.
Hi, i dont understand the constant thickness relation with shrinkage, would you mind to explain, Thanks!
@@joserafael9913 When injection molding parts you need to keep in mind how they will cool after injection. If a part has a thick section, it will cool slower than a thinner section and this can cause warping. To prevent this, during design, a part that will be injection molded should be designed to have close to constant wall thickness wherever possible to prevent or reduce warping during cooling.
The last ~5 minutes are the most important part. Design for the process!
Да! Вступление затянулось )
I have spent the last couple weeks trying to find a process for 3D printing a replacement fan blade that has a larger radius but kept have rubbing issues with parts I cannot remove and adding material to the fan itself kept making it untenable to 3D print. Finally I realized I just needed to print a mounting plate to got between the motor and the fan blade. The (hopefully) final version is printing right now. Design for the process indeed.
just fyi, injection molded parts are required to not have large areas of plastic, as they will take too long to cool and cause sink marks on the surface, thats why there are "lightening cuts" its not because of material cost.
Last redesign montage put a smile on my face. [ Chef's kiss ]
I love the mad scientist experimentation.
So glad to see you redesigned it, because the first thought I had was it was a bad design with weak points. Chamfers and fillets are our friends. Great work.
While using PPS-GF as a mold was cool, highlight of the video was seeing your approach to redesigning the part for 3D printing :)
Excellent video, as an industrial designer & professional model maker in the past, that was one of my first takeaways when I started designing for my first 3D printer 10 tears ago. I love making replacement parts and fixing stuff using my design skillset, and working with the limitations of FDM printing to achieve results. You're doing a great job of educating the masses, with those subtle bits of trickery.
Thats cool! Actually did some "remelting" experiments some months ago as well. I tried embedding printed parts into one-time-use "temporary" molds, being a) compressed salt powder and b) heat-resistant silicone. interestingly, my primary issue as well was plastic "bubbling" out of the form. So I am pretty sure this was not related to the release agent you used.
I was able to minimize the issue by tempering the part at 90°C , moisture seems to be the primary issue. But also any air caught inside will expand! And the plastic itself too, to some degree.
PC and PETG was affected heavily by this. PLA worked much better.
But I never got rid of it entirely. I stopped further experiments because I think I've found an alternative solution for my use case.
But I really hope to see more insight and progress on this topic in the future.
Would be so powerful to reach isotropic/injection molded quality!
As you mentioned salt you got me curious! I've seen recently some experiments on annealing 3d printed parts and I've been thinking about trying that but with the part suspended in fine salt and heating the salt around it as evenly as possible with temperature sensors close to the part, have you tried something quite like this or was the setup different? Does it anneal the part in a similar manner as they do with injection molded parts?
Instead of printing moulds you could use salt annealing. You pack the part in salt and then put it in the oven. That way you don't need a mould for each different part. CNC Kitchen tried this with good results. The biggest problem was the coarseness of the salt patterning the surface of the part. Maybe there is a finer material that could replace the salt. Or as you say just design the parts better for 3D printing.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Good call. You could just grind the salt finer in a spice grinder to fix the surface quality issue. Plus it would help it pack better. It would be interesting to test the new design in PLA and PTEG CF/GF and salt anneal it to see the strength difference.
I’m impressed with your matte PLA version. Matte filament typically has worse layer adhesion than standard PLA, but with your design improvements, those kicked ass. I’d probably used something with glass or carbon fiber though, particularly for a workshop part like that.
I think what you are thinking of as matt is fiber filled.
Those tabs break because they unconstrained, add an additional tab between the two flextures to limit how far they can bend.
I personally would love a way to injection mold stuff not because I need something that can only be injection molded but because I have dozens of kilograms of support material and failed prints that I could recycle that way
Recycling companies are slowly coming up with ways to recycle failed prints and unused filaments as a service but its so slow...
Have you watched the Teaching Tech videos about his journey with this? Wasn't a huge success if I recall but was quite interesting. It seems like turning the scraps into new filament might be a better way, but you have to have kept your different plastics separated otherwise you have issues in the extrusion and then printing process.
@@BenWolkWeiss the problem with recycling back to filament is that even if it's clean it's still going to be much lower quality than from a manufacturer, and unless you want to convert an old 3d printer to a filament machine you'd be spending way more than you're ever going to make back.
I've seen a few creators attempt both filament extrusion and injection molding, and it never seems useful enough to invest money in sadly
I haven't tried this, but for separating those molds, you might try designing in some jack screws. Put some more threaded inserts into the face that touches the other half of the mold, but put the clearance hole for the screw through the same half instead of the opposite half. On the opposite half, you might want to put a recess to glue in a bit of metal for wear resistance (a washer for a smaller-diameter screw perhaps). Then, when demolding, thread in a screw and use it to bear against the opposite half.
Seeing how you re-designed this to be more appropriate for it's fabrication method was really helpful as a mindset to keep in for the future - especially with such impressive results after!
I used the salt method to remelt and fuse printed PETG parts with success. You should give it a try if you haven't already. Small features became rather tough and stretched quiet a bit instead of snapping off.
I think this could work great with the part cast in plaster instead of a printed mold.
Not working well, cnckitchen tried this already and it was a f*n mess 🫨😵💫
In conclusion, redesigning for FDM is better than annealing. Easier too, since if one breaks you can just print another one. Great work.
I made a button like that to replace my broken microwave door button. Mine had the same problem with weak tangs but all I needed to do was to change the print orientation so that the layer lines are in the long dimension so if turned out very strong. The side effect was that the face of the button was now lined instead of the prefect flat face it previously was. But that was not a big issue and the button has been in my microwave for months now. It actually did break once but I adjusted something (I forgot what, some dimension) to make it more reliable and now it's good. One of the things I added was to fillet the base of the tang to give it a little bit more material and that made a big difference.
Love your vids man. Interesting idea. But I’ll just say I printed these in petg and they were fine, and if you printed in a high hardness tpu you’d never be able to break them! But I get that this was just a proof of concept for other future projects too.
Oh boy you were so close to my idea, using pps-cf as a mold for sunlu pla meta which prints as low as 170c, very cool vide0
Good example why functional design is most important. Thanks for the experiment. I would have never considered exploring that option
I like the redesign features. Those tabs look significantly stronger with the curve to distribute the stress. The added spring was a cool idea as well.
I am really impressed by this idea and the execution! Obviously plenty of room for improvement, but this is so cool. Redesigning the part before using the "mold" would also make the "molding" process easier I think. Don't really need the injection molding voids anymore for example. The results of the melted PETG were surprising to me and also the look was very unsettling. I would like to see some ABS tests with some tweaks to the execution. I was wondering if the part partially melting and getting into all the voids and rough surface of the mold would be an issue. Dialing in the temperature just right may be important. Good stuff!
Thank you for taking the time to make this part. Like you, I love my Workmate but can't always keep track of the dogs.
I like the way you redesigned the part to print it and have it function better.
That's a cool idea and I'm glad you tried it even though it failed. It seems making a silicone mold of the part you want to reproduce and casing it in polyurethane would be a better way to go than a 3d printed annealing mold. Your final solution to redesign the part for optimal strength when printed is great.
Why would you even use the pins in the first place ? They are there to make an injection molding process possible but since you 3D print the part, just change the geometry instead.
Your final design though is pretty good, well done.
Save material too maybe.
Tho the same could be achieved with modifiers instead. Make the thing that flexes 100% solid and everything else hollow.
@@Splarkszter Exactly, for 3D printing, ribs and such are irrelevant.
Fascinating. TY for putting in the time and effort in the experiment, as well as producing a video to share it with us.
I feel like you could make silicone molds for annealing that would work pretty well. Just pour around your part, cut it in half, put it back together, and anneal. As long as you don't go super liquid it should hold everything together well enough. Bonus points for making the mold in a box that can be heated originally, so that you have even less chance of any pressure pushing the mold out of shape.
Don't forget too, there are geometries you can't get with injection molding you can get with 3d printed parts, like serious undercuts and threads. Some molded parts with these features are VERY expensive to make molds for. Strengthening 3d printed parts is a cool exercise.
Outstanding design and really interesting results!
I use Plaster of Paris to mould my parts. Print the part, completely encase it in plaster, dry the plaster thoroughly, then bake at the melting point of the printed plastic. Chip away the plaster bulk, then soak the part in baking soda to dissolve the remaining plaster. Works great, but requires about a week total and is a total loss for the moulds. You don't get the part distortion that is common with salt or sand baths, and you don't get mould fouling. Still, it's a huge time investment, so you really have to want the parts re-flowed to eliminate the weak layers.
It’s such a good channel, I’m so glad it’s not another cooling nozzle video.
Instead of whacking it open, use compressed air.
Great video. I have a workmate with not enough dogs so this will be great to try printing. I think I'll do it in PTEG though for the increased ductility vs PLA.
@needitmakeit
Take high Temp silicone. Print the part. Make a mold from silicone with the printed part. Take a 3d printer Toolhead. Drill a hole on the upside of the oven. Place the mold into the oven. Heat up the oven. Place the Toolhead on the drilled hole. Extrude the filament directly into the silicone mold.
when modeling the mould you should include a slot on each side which lets you get a screwdriver in between the halves on each side to lever them apart rather than having to hammer it in. if you use two screwdrivers at once (one on each side) then you're also not applying any twisting force so it should come apart easier
Interesting. Would have been nice to see the same parts printed in regular PLA and tested as well. Carbon fiber supposedly makes everything more brittle.
Very interesting process. I took the simple road to replacing mine by making and/or replacing dogs using a hardwood block for the "Head" and hardwood dowel. I also made custom shaped "heads" for various holding methods. Made a box full in a hour. If they get chewed up, they go in the garbage.
Was this 3d printed or injection molded?
Needitmakeit: Yes
Maybe another weak point to eliminate: Make the cylinder Solid to where the latches are and add an "inverted" Spring mechanism afterwards. This way, the clamping forces will not act on the Spring.
😊 Not sure if I described clear enough...
All my comments/recommendations were actually adressed in the last redesign. It shows that in order to work as necessary, parts need to be redesigned for the manufacturing process.
thanks for this! interesting approach to "reworking" a 3D print into an injection moulded one...
🤔 I wonder if it would be worth trying to seal the 3D printed PLA part in a 2-part silicone mold for remelting... I imagine it'd be rigid enough & a lot easier to demold ... hope you can give this a shot & looking forward to your next informative video!
Great Video, I can't believe I never seen one of your videos, this one definitely made me suscribe. Good job!
Instead of printing the final piece flat, I'd try printing it at 45 degrees with tree support so that the layers aren't the weak point.
One trick for stronger studs that have to be printed vertical is to design a small hole in it, far below the surface. Normal stud with fail by ripping the top layers it is printed on, by embedding a small hole it has an anchor point and you get the full strength of the layer adhesion.
Can you elaborate more on that idea?
Sounds interesting
Smart re-design ! 3D printing requires more brain than printing in itself.
Thank you I will print some for my workbench!
Great video Mike. Always look forward to your next video. And...Thanks for the improved work clamp/dog. How is that QiDi holding up?
I am satisfied with the strength of the parts printed without any filling at all. I fill them with epoxy resin with filler and reinforcement.
What kind of filler? Thanks.
@@michaels3003 Portland cement
why not just change the orientation so that potential layer breaks would be less likely to occur?
Because that wasn't the purpose of this experiment.
An interesting continuation of this would be investment casting the printed part, then baking and dissolving the investment away
To me, PLA is best suited for decorations and toys. I wouldn't make anything functional out of anything less than PETG but typically I'd move to to engineering filaments such as PA-GF, PA-CF or maybe even PC.
Great minds think alike. I was wanting to do something like this to make licensed replica LEGO elements.
How about making cylindrical holes inside each "finger", and insert a couple of nails or some metal rod?
That is probably what I would do.
I'd torque an M8 bolt or similar through the part with large washers each side. PLA under compression over a large area is absurdly tough, preloads it from going into tension as much, just like they do with pre-stressed concrete for structural things.
You might want to look into powdered salt annealing, instead of printed molds
That wasn't the point of this video.
IMHO this is high temp resin's best use case.
As riba2233, what if we used this high temp plastic just as mould. With maybe a cone on the top to serve as a buffer for material, we could just put some plastic granulats and leave it melt and fill the mould in the oven with gravity.
Or just use a powerful extruder to pump it in :)
@riba2233 I'm afraid it would start to make the thing complicated and it will reach the injection molding trigger what isn't a so easy task in diy I think. Anyway these new High Temp 3D printable polymers seems really cool.
Design for process/application will always win over trying to duplicate a process you don't have.
Injection mold dies are highly polished and that does make a huge difference when it comes to part release.
Engineering and problem solving in action! 💪💪💪
CF infused filament seems to be the way to go for absurdly strong parts but if it breaks, how safe is it to handle; will the fibres be problematic even after being printed?
I like your way of teaching great video o will be following you from now on
My question is why you didn't also try using a master mold made from metal. I would imagine you could do the oven bake with them very effectively.
Thanks for the video and the files!
11:41 I saw a new species of beetle. I like your *Devil Scooby Doo* better.
This was a really interesting video. Thank you.
I just finished watching the rest of the video. It got even better. Great stuff. Thanks again.
I literally was about to print one of those work table clamps. spooky coincidence
Have you tried casting the mold out of silicone and using that as the high temp mold for the 3D printed part mold? oomoo makes different 2part silicone molds that you can bake to higher temp.
Those are the only plastic parts of my Workmate that aren't broken 😀. It's all the other parts I need! I may try printing some anyway, as I need bench dogs for an MFT bench, and if I can get good prints on my Qidi Q1 Pro I could use the ideas to design what I need.
I wonder if we can make a more "flex" mold, by using a strong metal box filled with sand, we can put the part into the sand box, compress the part with sand and put it inside the oven? If this method work, it will allow annealing with a little more complex part.
I've seen lower quality filaments with CF having many voids, that may have been your PETG-CF expansion issue.
"ePLA" is said to be tougher then PETG
excellent work!
Put the part in a cup of fine sand or salt, tight the powder, and heat all that on the oven. then just break the sand.
would be interesting to see the same process but with a fully silicone mold and printed parts being reflowed within them.
There are releasing agents for the molds you can buy, spray ones.
Oh, did you print draft into those pockets?
PPS parts really need to be annealed to allow all layer lines to fuse together.
You can add some groves to your part and then just add nylon (or any other strong rope) under tension to it and then add some epoxy or CA glue to fix it in place.
Should be faster than your approach.
You should consider using a screw as rebar
What if you just cast plaster around it before baking? Having a material you can soak off would avoid the oil, however you are exposing to water.
Interesting.
Thanks for sharing.
For part shrinkage could you do a calibration cube with a precise Z height setting to actually measure the shrinkage? If you print at a higher than ambient temp then the chamber temp shouldn't be a variable.
An interesting experiment, I didn't think about it. Do the new glacier plates work well?
I love matte PLA but I've read multiple times that it (silk too) is weaker than standard. Also, how are you liking the Biqu CryoGrip plate? I've been using a SliceWorx flex bed for months and loving it. I saw the Biqo on a BlackFriday sale, it's being delivered today for a second printer.
Devil Scooby Doo 😂.
You really dont need a mould. You can just buy some moulding sand and compress around the parts. Has the exact the same effect and can be reused indefinitly.
Really interesting ideas
Very interesting.. but why not creating a rib between the two endpoints? They need to flex just a bit, but they do not need to be exact copy of the original molded part. However, love the experiment…thanks you for sharing?
Haha… I should have waited until the end of the video…;-)
as a 3d printing project, this is pretty great. as a wood working fix, just use a hard wooden dowel that fits in the hole. most normal dogs are round dowels anyway, and the workmate only uses that weird shape so that you can get a very low edge on one side.
Using carbon fiber dowels (wood) in your projects is pretty useful. Adding dowel inside your 3D print can make it very strong.
I'd be curious to see what happens if you encased the parts in plaster of Paris rather than a printed form. It may well have been done, but I haven't seen it.
The plaster will dissolve in water after heating removing one of the bigger issues you had.
Thanks.
Could you use casting sand or something similar to anneal the parts?
Why would you use PETg or PLA for the clamps that will need force? Why not print is in PETF-CF or ABS-GF or the Nylon filament?
great video.
Very good
What about making a silicone mold for the annealing?
Can you do the same thing with a complete captured plaster of Paris cast?
Awesome video
Do you have a resin printer? I’d be interested in a test using HT resin for the mold.
Geometry always triumph over material.