Get the CryoGrip build plate and support the channel - shrsl.com/4pvya (affiliate). I test a lot of products but rarely find something great like this. Hopefully, you will enjoy yours too! :)
There is a problem in that this is fighting the physics of plastic shrinkage, the temperatures we have established for PEI/Glass beds work because it keeps the parts from shrinking mid-print and popping free. So it's holding on, but the plastic is still shrinking beneath, so now you are printing new features on-top of a slowly deviating area(or it stays centered and lifts the edges of the plate). Alignments will slowly drift if there is geometry that makes it lean a particular direction, differential cooling effects will be amplified, etc. The whole idea is to TRY and keep the whole part up around the Glass Transition Temperature until it's done, THEN let it uniformly shrink the rest of the way all at once while everything is anchored in-place. Making the bed hotter isn't exactly what gives PEI/glass a grip, it's the fact the plastic isn't actively trying to mechanically shear itself away on a per-line basis, making the bed hotter pushes the Glass Transition temperature gradient higher up into the parts layers, so less of them are shrinking too soon and it's ability to hold on gains a mechanical advantage of sorts.
@@pyalot It looks like both the plates are at least 70c and 75c in all the tables for the max you should need to go to, but also one of the illustrations very visually says the bed is 100c while the handle edge is cold enough to touch. Else no specifications given there, so anyones guess unless officially disclosed as supported temperatures.
@@Roobotics thanks for your explanation, can you give me a conclusion from your analysis? Maybe why i should use PEI rather than a cryogrip plate, thanks!
These are absolutely becoming popular, with Biqu and Darkmoon's popping off, even Bamu Lab has their own new one to replace the old col plate, called the "Cool Plate SuperTack", launching November 12th
If you need to remove debris from an older print, and the print is no thicker than a layer, just print a few full layers over the top of it and peel it off. You might need to have the heat on full to ensure the old material fully melts and mixes.
are you waiting till the plate and part have completely cooled before removing from the plate? I always take my plate and let it cool on my countertop before removing the part. this soaks up the residual heat that is left in the part and stops it from warping after being removed from the plate.
Yes, but if filament wants to warp it is hard to prevent that in general. For example, Bambu ASA is quite bad and something like Fiberlogy ASA has almost no warping.
if they bring a 355x355 version I will buy it instantly the power consumption is surely in important aspekt of many, would be cool if you can post the diffrence in power consumption for the same print (no heated bed pla vs normal settings -> 60°C or smth like that)
It always depends on the printer and how much stepper motors, fans, and hotend consume. But in general, the bed is the highest source of power consumption. Yeah, I hope too that they will provide these plates for other printers.
Imma be honest, for PLA I havent had any issue with the stock bambu PEI bed. Smearing some vision miner nano polymer stuff on the bed to be extra sure isn;t a bad thing either but I just can't justify buying a bed that hold slightly better when its just for PLA and PETG. If this was performing this well with ABS then I would be interested.
I agree. When I saw this all I could think was what's the issue with pla petg bed adhesion? Give me something for my ASA that I'm not forced to use the magigoo adhesive.
I'm testing the Glacier atm in a P1P with a case. I'm testing PLA at room temperature, and it seems good so far. I really want to see how this or the CryoGrip work at room temps on my A1 (it's busy for a few hrs and I didn't want to wait to try this). If I can get that bed heat to 0, I'll be super happy and get the Cryo as well.
Adhesion is so good, that once when nozzle got interfered in the infill - it resulted not in breaking detail or layer shift, but in shift of bed plate from the bed)
Getting a bed to shift by applying a sheer force alone would take a loooooooooooot of force. Try to give a push on the edge of a bed and see what I mean. Likely that the whole machine would move before the bed does. Surprised that this happened.
@@bigtreetech5117 I was really surprised checking camera in octoeveryhwere in that morning =) but it seems lots of details warped the plate a bid enough for magnetivity to loosen.
@bigtreetech5117 heh, just happened for the second time with petg whole bed print on a1, looks lite not that loooooots of force is required. I'm lucky it had not broken anything, as the plate got below bed somehow in the end.
This is awesome, they should offer other sizes for bigger printers. I would certainly use one of these in my modded Anycubic Mega X if they offered it in 300x300… it takes forever and spends a lot of power heating up that big bed , specially being an open printer
@@eggbag4182 it's totally fine to do depending on the insulation value of your machine's chamber and the ambient temperature outside the machine as well, basically you will get problems only if the air inside saturates to a high temperature and the molten filament can't be cooled down with blowing warm air against it to 'freeze' it quickly. Things like overhangs and smaller details higher up in the print becoming blobby, will be the first signs of this happening.
I don't have mine yet to confirm but at least BIQU specifies that it has 8/10 adhesion for ABS/ASA. This Frostbite plate for PLA has a 10/10 rating by them. But if you print with good ASA filament the bed adhesion and warping are not an issue on regular PEI plates.
@@bigtreetech5117 I'd love to just be able to get the adhesive surface sheet large enough without the spring steel already attached (I don't have good cutting capability for steel) so I could put it on an existing 250 mm round delta spring steel plate.
I've learnd that X1C AUX fan is causing the most warping. I ended up turning it of in every print, at every filament profile. Can you try the same prints with AUX fan OFF?
I have Bambu printers that can use this, but I wish there were Qidi Q1 and Creality K1 versions already--my K1 needs it the most. This might finally be the thing that makes my K1 quiet, since I would finally be able to close the lid for PLA and PETG AND lower the fan RPMs at the same time
Question is can the lidar calibrate the filament automatically because I’ve calibrated mine a million times over and it never prints the way it was when I calibrated them
@@PrintingPerspective it has no brand, at least I can't see. And another one I bought couple of years from Ali, it's petg+. The name is xingtongzhilian 😂 I am guessing is the company's name. I may need to try branded ones. But PETG that I have barely want to stick while on pei built plate sticks. Weird.
@@bigtreetech5117unbranded one. So I guess it won't be big issue for most people. I need to buy branded one and see how it goes. But pla sticks though perfectly
Is the warping potentially from the slightly wider plate being fit between the 2 aligners and pressed a little? As that minor compression could introduce a very small bow/bend in the plate. Should be easy enough to know by comparing 2 of the same print on an A1 VS P or X series right?
Regaridng removing prints: if youre hands are geting all over the build plate, does this plate help mitigate oils transferring from fingers and messing up adhesion? Or are you still using IPA between prints if you have to handke the build plate?
Using less heat on the plate also means you're able to pop it off sooner, at least in the way you would need to to get the parts to come off.. definitely with you on the improved magnetism over double-sided plate tho; I'd rather just have a smooth plate anyway, so the double-sided nature doesn't really appeal to me over it shifting around..
picked one up for my p1s. a real shame the glacier one isnt availible yet or I would have ordered one for engineering filaments. I print 90% pla, but im curious how the other plate would fair for stuff like tpu. plus some of the high temp filaments like pet-cf which wants like 100c bed temp with the bbl high temp plate and glue.
TPU has very good adhesion even with regular PEI plates at low temps like 35C. I will try to pin an update comment when I test the Glacier. But with ABS/Nylons/PET regular PEI with glue stick works great as you either way have to heat the bed. But it would be nice to have a plate to print many small parts and know those won't pop off during the print.
Very cool! A shame it didn't fit the X1/P1, as this makes it a no-go for me. I would have liked to see your adhesion tests compared to existing plates :)
It fits but every time you have to align it perfectly which is annoying. After all the prints I have done, the adhesion is not an issue at all. But only time will tell if it won't degrade. :)
It most certainly fits. It is designed for them. You just need to run your finger at the back to ensure it is placed within the stops. If it is outside of the stops just press down or re-seat it.
Yeah, I hope they will make plates for other printers too. But I am worried that they won't because it won't be as profitable as making for Bambu. EDIT: I asked them and they say they will! :)
This looks great. The best thing for me would be being able to print pla with a closed 3d printer to mitigate noise, something that you cant do if your bed is heated.
I ordered the build plate from them just after you released this video. It showed in stock. But it has been two weeks and they still have not sent it. I feel that something 'scammy' is going on. Like claiming adequate inventory when there is really none. Anyone else?
I don't know where the idea that you can't print PLA or PETG enclosed comes from. I've had my P1S for almost a year and I've never felt the need to leave the door open while printing either material. The prints come out just fine.
Printing PLA in an enclosure just like halves your cooling power, which is really bad on a printer that already has underpowered cooling. Maybe it doesn't matter if you only print large objects or full plates of parts, but if you print small things, the weak cooling will easily make what should be a 2-5 minute print take 10-20 minutes. It also precludes printing extreme overhangs without support. The mechanism here is that rate of cooling is proportional to delta T, and the critical temperature you need to get PLA below not to be soft is around 50°C. If your chamber is 35° instead of 20° ambient, delta T is 15 instead of 30 at this point, and cooling takes place at half the speed.
People who don't have a room with enough cooling are basically where this comes from. For those of us who have rooms that are temp stable and stay cool without issue, leaving the door closed is a non issue.
durning summer my printer jammed because the temperature in my enclosure went above 80 or so degrees. so the pla turned in to a mush that was impossible to push. that's why.
I also print PLA mostly enclosed with my P1S, only if I have some bigger bridges or overhangs above 45° I open the door a little. I also turn down the AUX fan to 25% instead of 70% default. I found that the cooling is often to strong and parts on the left (side of AUX fan) will warp, because the default cooling is to strong
A bit of misinformation here 1) that LIDAR warning is not about it not detecting the plate, but about not detecting plate TYPE because it has no QR code. You can disable that check in the slicer. 2) part warping is not because the plate lifted (I very much doubt it lifted in the centre), but because the plastic just springs to it's warped state when not held by the plate. Use "reverse on odd" in Orca to lessen that problem. 3) Aux fan has nothing to do with the bed temperature, it's there to help with cooling the part to get better overhangs. There's no reason to disable it, you will get better results with it enabled. You should also orient the part so that the overhangs are getting as much air as possible. 4) Chamber temperature has absolutely minimal impact on overhang performance unless it is crazy high. Layer adhesion is always better with higher chamber temperature.
In my experience, AUX fan indeed does not affect bed temp, but it definitely make the warping issue worst, especially on the side close to the air duct.
I wonder what's the market for these things. PEI beds have already surpassed magnetic adhesion for years... Personally never have parts detaching (ABS, PLA, PETG, even large) as long as PEI is clean (Q1 Pro). Printing with a cool bed migt be of interest for PLA, but surely not an option with ABS/ASA/PA because of other reasons
I don't think that plate is helping with regulating your chamber temp, you might have to have a lower bed temp but your fan should be able to cope easily with the chamber temp.
Thank you convincing me to not to buy the cryogrip. There are 2 problems: - If you print PETG on cold surface in cold environment you get similar issues to ABS. - the print should release after cooling down. Right now my PEI sheet bed does that extremely well with PLA and PETG. Requires zero force to remove parts.
You can totally use scrapers. Te problem ist people are just incapable to use them correct. AND they must be modified first to ensure no damage. Also the correct treatment of a PEI sheet will get you near or even to equal performance. But guess what.. most dont know how to treat or clean them proper. BTW... bambu printplates also tend to be worse than others.
That is true only for thin and slim prints. Most people don't know what they are talking about because of inexperience. But BIQU could also show how to properly use the plate as there are so many new people in the 3D printing space.
„Im shure you had at least one failure because of bead ethision“ my boy at I had at least 20 In 2 years I have probably 3 kg of waist and maybe 1kg of actual finished prints not including prototypes of designs
I tried Cryogrip with my bambu x1 carbon and it was fantastic. Few days ago I bought another printer named Qidi plus 4 and it has very similar with x1. I want to use cryogrip on that but I cannot find different size of cryogrip. I just hope to see different size like 310*310 (Cryogrip), 450*450 (CR10 max).
Get the CryoGrip build plate and support the channel - shrsl.com/4pvya (affiliate).
I test a lot of products but rarely find something great like this. Hopefully, you will enjoy yours too! :)
There is a problem in that this is fighting the physics of plastic shrinkage, the temperatures we have established for PEI/Glass beds work because it keeps the parts from shrinking mid-print and popping free. So it's holding on, but the plastic is still shrinking beneath, so now you are printing new features on-top of a slowly deviating area(or it stays centered and lifts the edges of the plate). Alignments will slowly drift if there is geometry that makes it lean a particular direction, differential cooling effects will be amplified, etc. The whole idea is to TRY and keep the whole part up around the Glass Transition Temperature until it's done, THEN let it uniformly shrink the rest of the way all at once while everything is anchored in-place. Making the bed hotter isn't exactly what gives PEI/glass a grip, it's the fact the plastic isn't actively trying to mechanically shear itself away on a per-line basis, making the bed hotter pushes the Glass Transition temperature gradient higher up into the parts layers, so less of them are shrinking too soon and it's ability to hold on gains a mechanical advantage of sorts.
Thanks this might explain why I've gotten warping on this plate
@AJolly don't listen to this asshole level your bed when your done lvling it level it again and run 15 mill high draft sheild your welcome
Does the plate withstand 60-70° C?
@@pyalot It looks like both the plates are at least 70c and 75c in all the tables for the max you should need to go to, but also one of the illustrations very visually says the bed is 100c while the handle edge is cold enough to touch. Else no specifications given there, so anyones guess unless officially disclosed as supported temperatures.
@@Roobotics thanks for your explanation, can you give me a conclusion from your analysis? Maybe why i should use PEI rather than a cryogrip plate, thanks!
I was waiting for someone to make a video about this one, thank you !
I hope it helped. :)
These are absolutely becoming popular, with Biqu and Darkmoon's popping off, even Bamu Lab has their own new one to replace the old col plate, called the "Cool Plate SuperTack", launching November 12th
At least according to Reddit comments, the BIQU plates have better adhesion. It will be interesting to see how the Bambu Lab's plate performs.
BBL Bed does not support PETG. Pretty much only PLA and one or two other rare ones. Latest bambu studio on github has the supported filaments in code.
@@PrintingPerspective BBL Plate is not compatible with PETG.
@@bigtreetech5117 It is compatible with PETG.
@@bigtreetech5117that’s a huge downside
I have ordered both of the plate.... Really looking forward to test them!
Thanks for your AWESOME good videos!
If you need to remove debris from an older print, and the print is no thicker than a layer, just print a few full layers over the top of it and peel it off. You might need to have the heat on full to ensure the old material fully melts and mixes.
That's a good idea :)
Yup. This has saved my PEI bed when my first layer height was wrong smashed plastic into the bed
Great video. Thanks for sharing your findings!
the positron needs this!
Hello, what plate setting are you using in Bambu Studio for the Frostbite? I'm thinking the Bambu SuperTack?
are you waiting till the plate and part have completely cooled before removing from the plate? I always take my plate and let it cool on my countertop before removing the part. this soaks up the residual heat that is left in the part and stops it from warping after being removed from the plate.
Yes, but if filament wants to warp it is hard to prevent that in general. For example, Bambu ASA is quite bad and something like Fiberlogy ASA has almost no warping.
if they bring a 355x355 version I will buy it instantly
the power consumption is surely in important aspekt of many, would be cool if you can post the diffrence in power consumption for the same print (no heated bed pla vs normal settings -> 60°C or smth like that)
It always depends on the printer and how much stepper motors, fans, and hotend consume. But in general, the bed is the highest source of power consumption. Yeah, I hope too that they will provide these plates for other printers.
Coming very soon. Like 3-4 weeks.
@@bigtreetech5117 updates? want to buy one for my voron 2.4 350
Imma be honest, for PLA I havent had any issue with the stock bambu PEI bed. Smearing some vision miner nano polymer stuff on the bed to be extra sure isn;t a bad thing either but I just can't justify buying a bed that hold slightly better when its just for PLA and PETG. If this was performing this well with ABS then I would be interested.
I agree. When I saw this all I could think was what's the issue with pla petg bed adhesion?
Give me something for my ASA that I'm not forced to use the magigoo adhesive.
Bed adhesion isn’t the main reason to not print PLA enclosed. It’s cooling, particularly for things like overhangs
I can't wait to release this base for kp3s
This would be perfect for printing miniatures!
I'm looking for a release agent to try to use with these beds, too many prints are getting TOO stuck!
I'm testing the Glacier atm in a P1P with a case. I'm testing PLA at room temperature, and it seems good so far. I really want to see how this or the CryoGrip work at room temps on my A1 (it's busy for a few hrs and I didn't want to wait to try this). If I can get that bed heat to 0, I'll be super happy and get the Cryo as well.
@PrintingPerspective - Link to filtration plans?
I would really like to see pure PA (not cf or gf) printed on it, a bit larger item
any update on the plate size for the p1s x1c? seems like a ugle issue it doesn't fit ??
Thanks for the review
Adhesion is so good, that once when nozzle got interfered in the infill - it resulted not in breaking detail or layer shift, but in shift of bed plate from the bed)
I think that shows more about the build plates unfortunate lack of magnetivity than adhesion to the part..(not that that means part adhesion is bad)
Getting a bed to shift by applying a sheer force alone would take a loooooooooooot of force. Try to give a push on the edge of a bed and see what I mean. Likely that the whole machine would move before the bed does. Surprised that this happened.
@@bigtreetech5117 I was really surprised checking camera in octoeveryhwere in that morning =) but it seems lots of details warped the plate a bid enough for magnetivity to loosen.
@@TS_Mind_Swept yep, your are right - lots of small details warped the bed plate a bit and lost the magnetic grip.
@bigtreetech5117 heh, just happened for the second time with petg whole bed print on a1, looks lite not that loooooots of force is required. I'm lucky it had not broken anything, as the plate got below bed somehow in the end.
This is awesome, they should offer other sizes for bigger printers. I would certainly use one of these in my modded Anycubic Mega X if they offered it in 300x300… it takes forever and spends a lot of power heating up that big bed , specially being an open printer
Am I missing something? I print PLA and PETG fully enclosed all the time and its perfectly fine...
Same
@@eggbag4182 it's totally fine to do depending on the insulation value of your machine's chamber and the ambient temperature outside the machine as well, basically you will get problems only if the air inside saturates to a high temperature and the molten filament can't be cooled down with blowing warm air against it to 'freeze' it quickly. Things like overhangs and smaller details higher up in the print becoming blobby, will be the first signs of this happening.
Anyone knows how ASA performs on the Glacier Printbed ?
its a g10 plate
I don't have mine yet to confirm but at least BIQU specifies that it has 8/10 adhesion for ABS/ASA. This Frostbite plate for PLA has a 10/10 rating by them. But if you print with good ASA filament the bed adhesion and warping are not an issue on regular PEI plates.
ASA on glacier sticks like ...... to a carpet.
@@LiamRay10 Not G10 by any means.
Do they sell just the surface material to put on different shaped (round) spring steel sheets?
I really doubt they do
@@PrintingPerspective That's unfortunate. If it's really good though I guess someone else will clone it.
If there is a sheet that is popular enough, we will make it.
@@bigtreetech5117 I'd love to just be able to get the adhesive surface sheet large enough without the spring steel already attached (I don't have good cutting capability for steel) so I could put it on an existing 250 mm round delta spring steel plate.
Where can I can get model for the fuse extractor?
You should compare this to the famous Darkmoon ICE plate. Super interested!
What temp you recommend for petg? (bambulab a1)?
I've learnd that X1C AUX fan is causing the most warping. I ended up turning it of in every print, at every filament profile.
Can you try the same prints with AUX fan OFF?
Thats not the CryoGrip™ Pro Glacier 257x257mm
can I get this for a creality printer? 235x235
I have Bambu printers that can use this, but I wish there were Qidi Q1 and Creality K1 versions already--my K1 needs it the most. This might finally be the thing that makes my K1 quiet, since I would finally be able to close the lid for PLA and PETG AND lower the fan RPMs at the same time
QIDI and K1 versions coming in about a month.
@@bigtreetech5117 Thank you! Keep up the great work!
Question is can the lidar calibrate the filament automatically because I’ve calibrated mine a million times over and it never prints the way it was when I calibrated them
Get 3M super 77 adhesive spray. Use it under your plate on the hot bed and it will hold the plate so good no warping.
Better to address the cause of warping than try to over power, or do both. But spray glue to keep your sprint steel plate stuck in place?
I have this plate on A1 now. Pla with 50c sticks perfectly but petg even with 80c barely sticks.
I had perfect bed adhesion with Sunlu PETG and Bambu PETG-HF. I am curious about what brand of PETG you used?
Would love to know what PETG that is with. We have not been able to find a PETG that does not stick.
@@PrintingPerspective it has no brand, at least I can't see. And another one I bought couple of years from Ali, it's petg+. The name is xingtongzhilian 😂 I am guessing is the company's name.
I may need to try branded ones. But PETG that I have barely want to stick while on pei built plate sticks. Weird.
@@bigtreetech5117unbranded one. So I guess it won't be big issue for most people. I need to buy branded one and see how it goes.
But pla sticks though perfectly
Is the warping potentially from the slightly wider plate being fit between the 2 aligners and pressed a little? As that minor compression could introduce a very small bow/bend in the plate. Should be easy enough to know by comparing 2 of the same print on an A1 VS P or X series right?
Regaridng removing prints: if youre hands are geting all over the build plate, does this plate help mitigate oils transferring from fingers and messing up adhesion? Or are you still using IPA between prints if you have to handke the build plate?
Using less heat on the plate also means you're able to pop it off sooner, at least in the way you would need to to get the parts to come off.. definitely with you on the improved magnetism over double-sided plate tho; I'd rather just have a smooth plate anyway, so the double-sided nature doesn't really appeal to me over it shifting around..
The magnetism is extremely strong. We would love to see if the plate was actually lifted off the magnetic sheet with the prints that warped.
picked one up for my p1s. a real shame the glacier one isnt availible yet or I would have ordered one for engineering filaments. I print 90% pla, but im curious how the other plate would fair for stuff like tpu. plus some of the high temp filaments like pet-cf which wants like 100c bed temp with the bbl high temp plate and glue.
TPU has very good adhesion even with regular PEI plates at low temps like 35C. I will try to pin an update comment when I test the Glacier. But with ABS/Nylons/PET regular PEI with glue stick works great as you either way have to heat the bed. But it would be nice to have a plate to print many small parts and know those won't pop off during the print.
Hey, can you test Papilio extruder? Maybe even with sls or slm printed parts from pcbway :P
I doubt I will because I am not a fan of DIY extruders and timing belts are not durable enough, in my opinion. :)
@@PrintingPerspective It supposed to not damage the filament. But i respect your opinion. Thanks)
Qidi X plus 4 vs Bambu P1S quality comparision in the future like for the Q1 Pro?
I doubt it, they never asked to review and I am not really interested as I already saw that many people had issues with their new printer as usual.
Very cool! A shame it didn't fit the X1/P1, as this makes it a no-go for me.
I would have liked to see your adhesion tests compared to existing plates :)
It fits but every time you have to align it perfectly which is annoying. After all the prints I have done, the adhesion is not an issue at all. But only time will tell if it won't degrade. :)
It most certainly fits. It is designed for them. You just need to run your finger at the back to ensure it is placed within the stops. If it is outside of the stops just press down or re-seat it.
mine fits fine, no similar issue
I definitely want to try this but need for 235 mm and/or 305 mm beds.
Yeah, I hope they will make plates for other printers too. But I am worried that they won't because it won't be as profitable as making for Bambu.
EDIT: I asked them and they say they will! :)
3:31 my bed plate is actually a plate, 3mm thick aluminum.
Still waiting for a build plate that works with PP and other materials
Cryogrip - glacier.
Isn't PETG high flow as expensive as Polymaker ABS? :) I would simply to to ABS
It depends where you live. In EU Polymaker prices are astronomical, ABS $30-35 per 1kg spool. :/
This looks great.
The best thing for me would be being able to print pla with a closed 3d printer to mitigate noise, something that you cant do if your bed is heated.
Yup! It of course will depend also on your environment temperature but with standard temps of 21C/70F, you can print PLA enclosed. :)
I ordered the build plate from them just after you released this video. It showed in stock. But it has been two weeks and they still have not sent it. I feel that something 'scammy' is going on. Like claiming adequate inventory when there is really none. Anyone else?
You should email their support. Shipping depends on many factors, they will know the best.
@@PrintingPerspective I did email them. Still awaiting a reply. I'll give them another two weeks before trying for a refund via PayPal.
I don't know where the idea that you can't print PLA or PETG enclosed comes from. I've had my P1S for almost a year and I've never felt the need to leave the door open while printing either material. The prints come out just fine.
Printing PLA in an enclosure just like halves your cooling power, which is really bad on a printer that already has underpowered cooling. Maybe it doesn't matter if you only print large objects or full plates of parts, but if you print small things, the weak cooling will easily make what should be a 2-5 minute print take 10-20 minutes. It also precludes printing extreme overhangs without support.
The mechanism here is that rate of cooling is proportional to delta T, and the critical temperature you need to get PLA below not to be soft is around 50°C. If your chamber is 35° instead of 20° ambient, delta T is 15 instead of 30 at this point, and cooling takes place at half the speed.
People who don't have a room with enough cooling are basically where this comes from. For those of us who have rooms that are temp stable and stay cool without issue, leaving the door closed is a non issue.
It depends on your environment temp and the fan speed settings, but overhangs will suffer no matter what.
durning summer my printer jammed because the temperature in my enclosure went above 80 or so degrees. so the pla turned in to a mush that was impossible to push. that's why.
I also print PLA mostly enclosed with my P1S, only if I have some bigger bridges or overhangs above 45° I open the door a little. I also turn down the AUX fan to 25% instead of 70% default. I found that the cooling is often to strong and parts on the left (side of AUX fan) will warp, because the default cooling is to strong
A bit of misinformation here
1) that LIDAR warning is not about it not detecting the plate, but about not detecting plate TYPE because it has no QR code. You can disable that check in the slicer.
2) part warping is not because the plate lifted (I very much doubt it lifted in the centre), but because the plastic just springs to it's warped state when not held by the plate. Use "reverse on odd" in Orca to lessen that problem.
3) Aux fan has nothing to do with the bed temperature, it's there to help with cooling the part to get better overhangs. There's no reason to disable it, you will get better results with it enabled. You should also orient the part so that the overhangs are getting as much air as possible.
4) Chamber temperature has absolutely minimal impact on overhang performance unless it is crazy high. Layer adhesion is always better with higher chamber temperature.
In my experience, AUX fan indeed does not affect bed temp, but it definitely make the warping issue worst, especially on the side close to the air duct.
My bad, good reasons, nice bed. Still get those gloves, cleaning requirements without alcohol are painful.
Funny. Do You all remeber Creality K1 stock A-plate? It was too strong. And now what? 😂
I was just looking at these! They sound great, but I need 355x355 and 310x310, so hopefully they release those soon!
Yeah, I really hope they do release these plate for more 3D printers.
O hi... ;)
I wonder what's the market for these things. PEI beds have already surpassed magnetic adhesion for years... Personally never have parts detaching (ABS, PLA, PETG, even large) as long as PEI is clean (Q1 Pro). Printing with a cool bed migt be of interest for PLA, but surely not an option with ABS/ASA/PA because of other reasons
You say that: most people print mostly PLA / PETG, this could save a lot of energy and no more waiting for bed to heat / cool.
300 x 300 and I’ll buy one
Hold my beer.
I have just had to buy two new hotend heater assemblies + nozzles due to poor layer adhesion for some reason so instantly bought this plate.
It is a great plate :) I never expected to make a video about build plates, but here we are. :D
I don't think that plate is helping with regulating your chamber temp, you might have to have a lower bed temp but your fan should be able to cope easily with the chamber temp.
I rather have self-releasing plates
I want them to make build plates for the QIDI Q1 PRO and PLUS 4. There are a lot of us that want better build plates!!!
Well hopefully they do :)
Hold my beer (for about a month)....
@@bigtreetech5117 The q1’s build plate is a very simple 250x250 with just a front lip. If that helps. :)))
hey look they reinvented buildtak
Would actually love to see a video pitting tak up against this. They are nothing alike so it would make for some interesting results.
Super
Thank you convincing me to not to buy the cryogrip. There are 2 problems:
- If you print PETG on cold surface in cold environment you get similar issues to ABS.
- the print should release after cooling down. Right now my PEI sheet bed does that extremely well with PLA and PETG. Requires zero force to remove parts.
looks like buildtak to me
Could you please test this with allPHA filaments which suffer from warping but MUST have a COLD bed (and possibly some fun blowing on the object!) ?
You can totally use scrapers. Te problem ist people are just incapable to use them correct. AND they must be modified first to ensure no damage. Also the correct treatment of a PEI sheet will get you near or even to equal performance. But guess what.. most dont know how to treat or clean them proper.
BTW... bambu printplates also tend to be worse than others.
I never said not to use scrapers on the PEI plates.
You can get epoxy reisen buildplate stick like bird shit
You guys are printing PLA and PETG with the door open? I get good results enclosed.
Do a homie a favor and print in PP
Reviews say it's shit lol you can't get the shit off when it's finished painting.
That is true only for thin and slim prints. Most people don't know what they are talking about because of inexperience. But BIQU could also show how to properly use the plate as there are so many new people in the 3D printing space.
Noti GANG!
„Im shure you had at least one failure because of bead ethision“ my boy at I had at least 20 In 2 years I have probably 3 kg of waist and maybe 1kg of actual finished prints not including prototypes of designs
cryo is beter than the cool track from bambu i test both and that bambus cool track is so money waste
That's not really convincing to me.
I tried Cryogrip with my bambu x1 carbon and it was fantastic. Few days ago I bought another printer named Qidi plus 4 and it has very similar with x1. I want to use cryogrip on that but I cannot find different size of cryogrip. I just hope to see different size like 310*310 (Cryogrip), 450*450 (CR10 max).
BIQU said they will make these plates for other 3D printers, so you have to wait and see. :)
@@PrintingPerspective I asked to BIQU about and I go t same answer. Qidi told me similar answer. I cannot do anything except waiting.