Good stuff. I hope your channel grows and grows! Fantastic information, intelligently delivered with top notch background music, that is to say no background music (not that I would not watch if you had to add it). I was getting ready to buy a bunch of this, but I am going to give it a bit now. Thanks!
I was having issues with little pits all over the walls of my prints, not to be confused with zits and blobs or even wet filament, in total i dried mine for like 16hrs and it was still doing it with the base settings. After many hours of researching and testing i lowered the override retraction length in the PETG HF profile to 0.75 from 0.8 ( 0.4 nozzle ) and 0.55 ( 0.6 nozzle ), i was amazed at the difference it made. This was tested on pretty small prints on an X1C, I'd be interested if that works for anyone else, especially on larger prints. Besides this i love the fact that there is no stringing and print times are a lot quicker.
I landed on this video because I have the same issue with PETG-HF. After 3 8h drying sessions, the results are not getting better. Tomorrow I will do what you suggested! Thanks a lot for the video! You've got a new subscriber!
I was facing the same issue with this filament. I set it on my Sunlu S4 dryer using the PETG setting for 8 hours. No luck. So, I, like you, opted to calibrate it. And lo and behold, it fixed it!
Thank you for this video. I’m getting my new P1S this week and have ordered PETG-HF for the first time. I’ve never worked with any PETG before at all, so I appreciate the heads up on this!
I received my petg-hf last week, dries it, and it prints Flawless. I don't have any zits, as you mentioned in your video. PETG-HF prints better than basic petg and better than pla. I just need more color options and maybe a rainbow, and I'll be all set!
So the moral of the story is : the issue is not with the filament, its just that you must re-calibrate your printer so that it adapts to the new filament ! :) thanks, this is really good to know
OMG--THANK YOU for mentioning how to update Studio to get the HF preset! I found it on my A1, but was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to update the slicer!
I have tried several of the PETG-HF colors. Red and Black seems to have some quality issues (even when dried). Interestingly White PETG-HF was flawless for a 21hr print (not a single issue and super clean end result). Afterwards Two 15 hour prints subsequently printed flawlessly with the White. (didn't have any issues running the whole role) I did have to tune flow ratio and temps but the Red and Black still perform subpar. I will be burning through Blue tomorrow. Will be interesting to see how that goes. Personally, I think I will use other brands for PETG. That said, Bambu PLA has been excellent. (aside from silk - especially silver... It is pretty but extremely brittle and not good for anything semi fragile). I have had great results with the PLA Basic, Glow, and Galaxy.
Just got a roll of the PETG HF. The top surfaces are terrible when I print the flow rate calibrations on my A1. Not sure what I can use that filament for...
EDIT: Hahaha ... I need to watch the whole video before I post . The gaps in the top surfaces of the cartrige keychain parts is from under extrusion. I just had a print with the same defect on my A1 mini. Reprinted with the flow dynamics calibration enabled and it was perfect. The blobs are from PETG strings melting to the nozzle. When enough builds up it gets deposited on the print. Try printing the PETG 5-10C lower temp. Nice video and good choice of test prints!
I got a roll of blue a few days ago. I have a P1S and regular AMS. The big problem I've been having is Bambu Handy reliably recognizing it. If I have orca slicer open on my machine, it just refuses to play ball. Additionally if I try to use orca slicer, it crashes constantly when slicing or telling it to print. So the config files aren't quite there yet. From a printing perspective it is a far different experience. I did what it recommended and dried it out first thing. I've had virtually no stringing, overhands are far far far better than regular petg and it is shockingly fast. I took the time to run a bunch of configuration prints to dial in the speed and flow and while Bambu's settings were close, they weren't perfect as evidenced by the small "zits". A little config eliminates those pretty quickly. Overall, extremely impressive filament with a few minor issues that are pretty easily ironed out. I just need Orca slicer to update something in their config so it quits crashing on me.
I am having the same issue. Even after a bunch of calibration test. I have dried 2 rolls (bought a month apart) of white for more than 60hrs at 70c and the zits aren’t going away. Still prints good and fast and I like the more matte finish. Bambu seems to have the whitest white that I have tried. I came across your video as I keep doing more research. Good video.
I had the same problem with PETG and X1C. I tried everything possible for months, even stopping using PETG. Then I switched to another brand, and my prints were much better. Now I am using PETG from Creality, and I love it. For some reason, Creality PETG prints much better on X1C. Chears.
If you still have Bambu PETG left over, try using: - 240C first layer / 255C other layers - 85C textured PEI first layer / 70C other layers - no cooling (except overhangs/bridges) - K = 0.06 - 15mm/s first layer / 25mm/s first layer infill - 50mm/s outer / inner walls / 150mm/s otherwise / 25mm/s top surface - 500mm/s2 acceleration first layer + top surface / 1000mm/s2 otherwise Slow but I've had seriously good results from 0.08 through 0.20 layer height with those settings. If you have ANY first layer adhesion issues then pull the plate and give it a dish soap and water clean, air dry then a light coat of hairspray to prevent it sticking too well.
Thanks for the video. Do you mind if I ask what flow rate you settled on for that PETG HF that you got your best results? I would like to compare my results settings to see if we ended close to each other. Thanks
I’m new to 3D printing and been using pla with a lot of success, but I have been doing flow calibration on every material and color, maybe that’s over doing it but I plan to move to petg and do the same thing, great video.
This seems like it could be a good candidate for the experimental scarf joint seam setting. I use it on practically all my prints now as it appears to only help me and has yet to hurt anything IMO. Nice vid! Just in time since I recently purchased some and plan to print some things with mine!
X1C, same issues prior to profile updates. I've had poor 1st layers. Tried textured and smooth PEI, with and without glue. The forum suggests some possible cooling tweaks, but that doesn't affect the first layer. I have a 0.6 E3D hot end so YMMV.
I found same on qidi printer, little zits. For someone not using a bambu printer, it would be great to know the difference between the original and the revised flowrate. Certainly a great start point.
One hundred percent. I had the same experience. And it's strange that PLA plastic prints well right out of the box, but with the new PETG, it doesn't, and there's simply no alternative in the form of standard filament anymore.
How did you get it to print that grid on the first layer with that tool path? @4:15 That's part of the reason why it was so successful on not being stringy, it printed it like it was a hex support, not an outside wall.
do u need to use a glue stick when printing with the bambu A1 textured pei plate. ive been seeing both sides ppl saying you need it and some say u dont
Little tip here: Run the filament directly from the dryer through the AMS while the dryer is still running! I am new to 3D printing. I figured out that you can get the Crealty dual spool dryers in a dual pack and it comes with tubes and you can simply run it straight from the dryer into the AMS motors. Just select the material in the BambuLab software (or get a magnifying glass and a touch screen pen doing it on the printer) and off you go! Works with PLA and PETG. Didn't use PETG High Flow yet, but PETG turned out will this way.
i think the blobs are a result of the HF additives. Not shure a bigger retract can help. I stopped the highspeed horror in my workshop. To get more parts i have some more printers
I bought Bambu lab x1c Printer two weeks ago with a PETG Roll and the first 800g from the 1kg was without any problem everything perfect and then the last 200g was really painful 😣 always at the first layer he scratched with the nozzle the Filament up and after bed leveling not better. with the X1C everytime wenn I print PETG I make the auto flow calibration but always the same result :( broken first layer or the surface not good
Elegoo's has been better for me. I suppose it's possible I got a bad batch from Bambu. Some people had the same issues I had, and others say it's perfect.
Well, I will have to trust Reddit as I am also asking this there as people have had some documented issues with both. Maybe the profile is better now with PETG-HF as it is probably way more refined. PETG for me is for functional parts, so perfection isn't needed anyways. Considering that the Bambu filament's specs are better for functional parts as a material with all-round durability, I would rather go with Bambu's PETG-HF in this case despite the worse print quality, but I will say that your response was very helpful.
Nice video. I see it improved after calibration, but lets say I was only interested in a real smooth perfect surface. Would you still pick PLA or does PETG get as good after calibration?
Where do you see the configuration update? I dont see anything about an update at the bottom right of Studio. What screen do you need to be on to see it? Id like for my AMS to recognize this PETG-HF
My experience is similar. Needs Flow rate calibration but even then I get inconsistent results that don't last. Prints are fragile so useless for anything functional in any way. The PETGCF seems to be decent and prints nice after calibration but again may need to be a better material to get strong prints that last more than a week.
I had some initial trouble with flow rates using BL matte PLA. So it doesn't seem to be an uncommon issue. BTW what filament dryer do you use/recommend?
I purchased 4 spools of PETG-HF two weeks ago, red black white and green. Right after receiving them, I dried the spools for 24hrs, just to be safe. The results was terrible, poorside walls, stringing, stuck to the pei bed so much that I had to use a putty knife, and their was still plastic still on the bed, no I didn't use a glue stick. Final conclusion I don't think I will ever use Bambu Labs PETG-HF!!!!!
I do have a Pixel Watch. I'm using a bumper case I printed from TPU. Here's a link: www.printables.com/model/300922-pixel-watch-bumper-case-v2-now-with-tpu-version
On your zit problem do you remember how your seams were set? It looks to be, at least on the ball, that seams were set to random which will cause zits. Woops should have watched the whole video, good work!
Can you address the thing about bambu now has most of their filaments recommended to be dried before use? I have no clue what's gotta be done for that and I don't feeling like buying another equipment...
All filament can benefit from drying. The extent to how badly you need to dry them depends on the humidity where you're printing. You can use a dedicated filament dryer. I've seen some for under $50. But you could also use something Iike a food dehydrator. I just wouldn't use it for food afterwards to be on the safe side.
If you have an X1, It has an inbuilt 'filament drying' set of gcodes for most filament profiles, though I have no idea if it has been updated to include a profile for PETG-HF, Or if it applies to their other Enclosed printer.
I feel like Bambu, or a 3rd party, could make some money by adding a dryer directly to the AMS. Bambu could have easily implemented a heater and fan into the AMS. But the way companies are these days I'm sure a Pro model is around the corner.
As previously mentioned. If you had watched the entire video instead of rage commenting like a monkey you would have seen a small tweak to the config was all that was needed. You know, the same kind of calibration that benefits every single filament and every single printer on the market. Bambu printers including the AMS work with any filament, there are third party nozzles that work just fine with them, there are third party build plates that work just fine with them. Hell there are tons of mods that can be done with them at this point as well. So beyond the base printer and board itself which most people will never bother messing with, what are you actually crying about? What? Can't afford more than one printer? That is a you problem, not a them problem. I own multiple printers and I love them all for different reasons. I have the Bambu printers for just plain ease of use or when I need to get a multi color print done with little fuss. I have a voron for when I just want to tinker and push the printer until it breaks. I have multiple Elegoo printers for when I have prints that I don't need in any particular hurry. As such I don't need to get into this stupid tribal mindset of "Every company must make the same thing or I'm going to hate them". If they acted like Apple, I could understand the hate because apple actively tries to prevent you from using anything that isn't theirs, won't honor their warranty if you mess with it and actively lock you into their eco system. Bambu doesn't do that. If they ever do, then I'll drop them and swear them off just like apple. But right now their approach has resulted in some of the best printers on the market and affordable multi material printing and has forced the rest of the industry to catch up. If it weren't for bambu we would probably still be printing at ender 3 speeds because none of the big makers had any intention of releasing a fast printer anytime soon as proven by going on two years and they are just now starting to release printers that compete. Oh sure they are completely open source, but they weren't exactly pushing the tech forward either.
@@_RIL_ Brainlet bambu users would see this overpriced junk as "manufactured by bambu" when they just slap their labels on other manufacturers. Totally not a behavior that's encouraged by closed ecosystem and cult thinking.
Good stuff. I hope your channel grows and grows! Fantastic information, intelligently delivered with top notch background music, that is to say no background music (not that I would not watch if you had to add it). I was getting ready to buy a bunch of this, but I am going to give it a bit now. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the kind words!
I was having issues with little pits all over the walls of my prints, not to be confused with zits and blobs or even wet filament, in total i dried mine for like 16hrs and it was still doing it with the base settings.
After many hours of researching and testing i lowered the override retraction length in the PETG HF profile to 0.75 from 0.8 ( 0.4 nozzle ) and 0.55 ( 0.6 nozzle ), i was amazed at the difference it made. This was tested on pretty small prints on an X1C, I'd be interested if that works for anyone else, especially on larger prints.
Besides this i love the fact that there is no stringing and print times are a lot quicker.
Did you mean to say override retraction length?? There is no "extrusion length" in filament overrides.
Very willing to test with multiple nozzles….
@@mza1979m yep sorry mate, my mistake.
I ended up refunding all the rolls I bought, Bambu labs customer service is top notch. I'll give it another go one day.
Thanks, I didn't know about flow rate calibration. I ordered a bunch of PETG-HF spools so this might come in handy.
You make the best vids, thanks. (I seem to watch everyone since its they are all so relatable )
Thanks a bunch!
I landed on this video because I have the same issue with PETG-HF. After 3 8h drying sessions, the results are not getting better. Tomorrow I will do what you suggested! Thanks a lot for the video! You've got a new subscriber!
I was facing the same issue with this filament. I set it on my Sunlu S4 dryer using the PETG setting for 8 hours. No luck. So, I, like you, opted to calibrate it. And lo and behold, it fixed it!
Thank you for this video. I’m getting my new P1S this week and have ordered PETG-HF for the first time. I’ve never worked with any PETG before at all, so I appreciate the heads up on this!
I received my petg-hf last week, dries it, and it prints Flawless. I don't have any zits, as you mentioned in your video. PETG-HF prints better than basic petg and better than pla. I just need more color options and maybe a rainbow, and I'll be all set!
So the moral of the story is : the issue is not with the filament, its just that you must re-calibrate your printer so that it adapts to the new filament ! :)
thanks, this is really good to know
OMG--THANK YOU for mentioning how to update Studio to get the HF preset! I found it on my A1, but was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to update the slicer!
What a good video mate! 👌🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks!
I have a roll on the way, so I’m glad I stumbled across the video. I had no idea there was a flow rate calibration option in Studio. Thanks!
I have tried several of the PETG-HF colors. Red and Black seems to have some quality issues (even when dried). Interestingly White PETG-HF was flawless for a 21hr print (not a single issue and super clean end result). Afterwards Two 15 hour prints subsequently printed flawlessly with the White. (didn't have any issues running the whole role) I did have to tune flow ratio and temps but the Red and Black still perform subpar. I will be burning through Blue tomorrow. Will be interesting to see how that goes. Personally, I think I will use other brands for PETG. That said, Bambu PLA has been excellent. (aside from silk - especially silver... It is pretty but extremely brittle and not good for anything semi fragile). I have had great results with the PLA Basic, Glow, and Galaxy.
Thank you!!! I thought I was going bonkers with the newly released PETG HF print quality. Running a P1S.
Similar experience I had with my x1c and their old PETG. Their profile was trash and took a lot of tuning. Great video.
Just got a roll of the PETG HF. The top surfaces are terrible when I print the flow rate calibrations on my A1.
Not sure what I can use that filament for...
EDIT: Hahaha ... I need to watch the whole video before I post .
The gaps in the top surfaces of the cartrige keychain parts is from under extrusion. I just had a print with the same defect on my A1 mini. Reprinted with the flow dynamics calibration enabled and it was perfect. The blobs are from PETG strings melting to the nozzle. When enough builds up it gets deposited on the print. Try printing the PETG 5-10C lower temp.
Nice video and good choice of test prints!
Yeah just common PETG issues
I got a roll of blue a few days ago. I have a P1S and regular AMS. The big problem I've been having is Bambu Handy reliably recognizing it. If I have orca slicer open on my machine, it just refuses to play ball. Additionally if I try to use orca slicer, it crashes constantly when slicing or telling it to print. So the config files aren't quite there yet.
From a printing perspective it is a far different experience. I did what it recommended and dried it out first thing. I've had virtually no stringing, overhands are far far far better than regular petg and it is shockingly fast. I took the time to run a bunch of configuration prints to dial in the speed and flow and while Bambu's settings were close, they weren't perfect as evidenced by the small "zits". A little config eliminates those pretty quickly.
Overall, extremely impressive filament with a few minor issues that are pretty easily ironed out. I just need Orca slicer to update something in their config so it quits crashing on me.
I am having the same issue. Even after a bunch of calibration test. I have dried 2 rolls (bought a month apart) of white for more than 60hrs at 70c and the zits aren’t going away. Still prints good and fast and I like the more matte finish. Bambu seems to have the whitest white that I have tried. I came across your video as I keep doing more research. Good video.
Any luck since?
@ Nope. I have a new roll of green coming. 1st roll since the white. Idk if it will have the same problems.
Can't unsee that little dot of white on the red on the left pokeball
You're a life saver!
I had the same problem with PETG and X1C. I tried everything possible for months, even stopping using PETG. Then I switched to another brand, and my prints were much better. Now I am using PETG from Creality, and I love it. For some reason, Creality PETG prints much better on X1C. Chears.
If you still have Bambu PETG left over, try using:
- 240C first layer / 255C other layers
- 85C textured PEI first layer / 70C other layers
- no cooling (except overhangs/bridges)
- K = 0.06
- 15mm/s first layer / 25mm/s first layer infill
- 50mm/s outer / inner walls / 150mm/s otherwise / 25mm/s top surface
- 500mm/s2 acceleration first layer + top surface / 1000mm/s2 otherwise
Slow but I've had seriously good results from 0.08 through 0.20 layer height with those settings. If you have ANY first layer adhesion issues then pull the plate and give it a dish soap and water clean, air dry then a light coat of hairspray to prevent it sticking too well.
I've been using bambu and overture and I get a lot of nozzle build up during longer/bigger prints. Do you experience this with Creality PETG?
Thanks for the video. Do you mind if I ask what flow rate you settled on for that PETG HF that you got your best results? I would like to compare my results settings to see if we ended close to each other. Thanks
I’m new to 3D printing and been using pla with a lot of success, but I have been doing flow calibration on every material and color, maybe that’s over doing it but I plan to move to petg and do the same thing, great video.
Been printing for 7+ years, for PLA yes it's overkill, but more info is always good so not a "bad" idea.
@@TXstang347 yeah I figure it wouldn’t hurt, every new roll I put in I do the calibration.
So does anyone know if Bambu updated the default flow settings for this filament? Hopefully he contacted Bambu to let them know
This seems like it could be a good candidate for the experimental scarf joint seam setting.
I use it on practically all my prints now as it appears to only help me and has yet to hurt anything IMO.
Nice vid! Just in time since I recently purchased some and plan to print some things with mine!
X1C, same issues prior to profile updates. I've had poor 1st layers. Tried textured and smooth PEI, with and without glue. The forum suggests some possible cooling tweaks, but that doesn't affect the first layer. I have a 0.6 E3D hot end so YMMV.
I have the same issues, Im printing a power suit from fallout and i decided im only using the PETG HF for the feet for the impact resistance
You have earned a subscribe. Well made video
I found same on qidi printer, little zits. For someone not using a bambu printer, it would be great to know the difference between the original and the revised flowrate. Certainly a great start point.
One hundred percent. I had the same experience. And it's strange that PLA plastic prints well right out of the box, but with the new PETG, it doesn't, and there's simply no alternative in the form of standard filament anymore.
How did you get it to print that grid on the first layer with that tool path? @4:15 That's part of the reason why it was so successful on not being stringy, it printed it like it was a hex support, not an outside wall.
do u need to use a glue stick when printing with the bambu A1 textured pei plate. ive been seeing both sides ppl saying you need it and some say u dont
I've never used a glue stick on that plate. If something doesn't adhere well, I clean the plate with soap and water.
Little tip here: Run the filament directly from the dryer through the AMS while the dryer is still running!
I am new to 3D printing. I figured out that you can get the Crealty dual spool dryers in a dual pack and it comes with tubes and you can simply run it straight from the dryer into the AMS motors. Just select the material in the BambuLab software (or get a magnifying glass and a touch screen pen doing it on the printer) and off you go! Works with PLA and PETG. Didn't use PETG High Flow yet, but PETG turned out will this way.
Were u able to print miniatures with petg hf?
i think the blobs are a result of the HF additives. Not shure a bigger retract can help.
I stopped the highspeed horror in my workshop. To get more parts i have some more printers
He dialed in the flow rate and then everything was perfect, so much for watching the video eh? But hey, just buy more printers bro... hehe
Hell yeah!
The amount of people in the comments learning about how finnicky PETG can be to print is pretty funny.
I bought Bambu lab x1c Printer two weeks ago with a PETG Roll and the first 800g from the 1kg was without any problem everything perfect and then the last 200g was really painful 😣 always at the first layer he scratched with the nozzle the Filament up and after bed leveling not better.
with the X1C everytime wenn I print PETG I make the auto flow calibration but always the same result :( broken first layer or the surface not good
Since you have now used Bambu's PETG-HF and Elegoo's Rapid PETG, I would like to know your opinion on which is better as both are affordable enough.
Elegoo's has been better for me. I suppose it's possible I got a bad batch from Bambu. Some people had the same issues I had, and others say it's perfect.
Well, I will have to trust Reddit as I am also asking this there as people have had some documented issues with both. Maybe the profile is better now with PETG-HF as it is probably way more refined. PETG for me is for functional parts, so perfection isn't needed anyways. Considering that the Bambu filament's specs are better for functional parts as a material with all-round durability, I would rather go with Bambu's PETG-HF in this case despite the worse print quality, but I will say that your response was very helpful.
Nice video. I see it improved after calibration, but lets say I was only interested in a real smooth perfect surface. Would you still pick PLA or does PETG get as good after calibration?
Where do you see the configuration update? I dont see anything about an update at the bottom right of Studio. What screen do you need to be on to see it? Id like for my AMS to recognize this PETG-HF
My experience is similar. Needs Flow rate calibration but even then I get inconsistent results that don't last. Prints are fragile so useless for anything functional in any way. The PETGCF seems to be decent and prints nice after calibration but again may need to be a better material to get strong prints that last more than a week.
I had some initial trouble with flow rates using BL matte PLA. So it doesn't seem to be an uncommon issue. BTW what filament dryer do you use/recommend?
I use a FixDry NT-1. It has worked well for me.
Same problem here even I used normal PETG the the finishing bad, PLA Going better
I purchased 4 spools of PETG-HF two weeks ago, red black white and green. Right after receiving them, I dried the spools for 24hrs, just to be safe. The results was terrible, poorside walls, stringing, stuck to the pei bed so much that I had to use a putty knife, and their was still plastic still on the bed, no I didn't use a glue stick. Final conclusion I don't think I will ever use Bambu Labs PETG-HF!!!!!
Do you have the Pixel watch? If so, what case are you using for it?
Thanks!
I do have a Pixel Watch. I'm using a bumper case I printed from TPU. Here's a link: www.printables.com/model/300922-pixel-watch-bumper-case-v2-now-with-tpu-version
You need to be actively drying PETG-HF while printing. Needs to be under 15% humidity
On your zit problem do you remember how your seams were set? It looks to be, at least on the ball, that seams were set to random which will cause zits. Woops should have watched the whole video, good work!
Can you address the thing about bambu now has most of their filaments recommended to be dried before use? I have no clue what's gotta be done for that and I don't feeling like buying another equipment...
All filament can benefit from drying. The extent to how badly you need to dry them depends on the humidity where you're printing. You can use a dedicated filament dryer. I've seen some for under $50. But you could also use something Iike a food dehydrator. I just wouldn't use it for food afterwards to be on the safe side.
I bought an oven from target for $40. It has a dehydrate mode and fits 2 rolls of filament. Been great.
Its because its rebranded Sunlu
If you have an X1, It has an inbuilt 'filament drying' set of gcodes for most filament profiles, though I have no idea if it has been updated to include a profile for PETG-HF, Or if it applies to their other Enclosed printer.
I feel like Bambu, or a 3rd party, could make some money by adding a dryer directly to the AMS. Bambu could have easily implemented a heater and fan into the AMS. But the way companies are these days I'm sure a Pro model is around the corner.
would you recomend qidi q1 pro of flashforge 5m ?
I have nothing but trouble with Bambu labs filament, especially the new petg. The dual color silk won’t even feed. I stopped using it.
Generic is not the right profile….you need to calibrate, flow calibrate, dry the filament, and run it again.
100%
Nice try Bambu... Still love you
Simple solution… stop using unnecessary proprietary lock-in tech!
What's lock-in about this? Bambu do not force you to use their filament
As previously mentioned. If you had watched the entire video instead of rage commenting like a monkey you would have seen a small tweak to the config was all that was needed. You know, the same kind of calibration that benefits every single filament and every single printer on the market. Bambu printers including the AMS work with any filament, there are third party nozzles that work just fine with them, there are third party build plates that work just fine with them. Hell there are tons of mods that can be done with them at this point as well. So beyond the base printer and board itself which most people will never bother messing with, what are you actually crying about? What? Can't afford more than one printer? That is a you problem, not a them problem. I own multiple printers and I love them all for different reasons. I have the Bambu printers for just plain ease of use or when I need to get a multi color print done with little fuss. I have a voron for when I just want to tinker and push the printer until it breaks. I have multiple Elegoo printers for when I have prints that I don't need in any particular hurry. As such I don't need to get into this stupid tribal mindset of "Every company must make the same thing or I'm going to hate them". If they acted like Apple, I could understand the hate because apple actively tries to prevent you from using anything that isn't theirs, won't honor their warranty if you mess with it and actively lock you into their eco system. Bambu doesn't do that. If they ever do, then I'll drop them and swear them off just like apple. But right now their approach has resulted in some of the best printers on the market and affordable multi material printing and has forced the rest of the industry to catch up. If it weren't for bambu we would probably still be printing at ender 3 speeds because none of the big makers had any intention of releasing a fast printer anytime soon as proven by going on two years and they are just now starting to release printers that compete. Oh sure they are completely open source, but they weren't exactly pushing the tech forward either.
@@_RIL_ Brainlet bambu users would see this overpriced junk as "manufactured by bambu" when they just slap their labels on other manufacturers. Totally not a behavior that's encouraged by closed ecosystem and cult thinking.
Are you insane? Entitled how much?
I don't see why it's unnecessary