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If you put "yourprinteripaddress:8080/?action=stream" in the device UI input it'll show the stream in the device tab. Biggest issue I found with it is that it loses connection regularly but if you go back to the wifi setup and just re-hit the test button, it'll refresh the connection. The Orca-flashforge version of the slicer has a better device page with more print information and also seems to connect easier if you pair your slicer to the printer but that app seems to occasionally have server issues where you can't even login so helpful to have both apps and set them up if you can.

Help! I dont have a wifi setting on my orca app?

Straight to the point and helpful tysm

Im a beginner and bought this first two days in very little issues... Dope system right to printing difficult concepts 8hr projects

F resin... I was going to buy one.. but all these chemical f@kery is not for me...

Mine hasn’t been very successful because even when adding the adhesive things always pop off and I have to cancel the printing. Do you know how to fix this? Also, I don’t know how to place custom prints to make with the printer so all I can do is make the default options.

It's great if you can log in.

Sunlu ABS or my personal favorite Sunlu nylon-like. Have not found anything to beat it in price vs performance yet. Edit: I guess I should add I use a Saturn 8k.

What do i do if the printer won’t feed the little bit of filling into the nozzle

Thankyou I've been using cura for over 2 years now with both my ender 3 and anycubic chiron after getting the ad 5m i found i couldn't use it anymore and had no idea what to do next...

Just got 3 bottles of these and cant wait to use it. Thanks for the info!

It would be interesting to see how that worked out with a .2 nozzle on the FDM machine. The quality of FDM is getting really impressive. Great video.

But it's better that way than if it causes problems for the customer later. I also think it's fair of Flashforge to give a 10% discount or to include filament.

Him: You see the elevated platform? Me: Procceds to elevate platform immediately Him: Your gonna want it to be completely at the bottom Me: Internally screams

Great intro video to the Orca software.. though FlashForge must have stopped supplying 2 nozzles with the 5M model, as we only received a 0.4 mm nozzle that came loaded in the extruder. Or perhaps the 5M PRO comes w/ both. Anyway, seems like a cool new hobby. Is the Orca software also used for design/CAD of objects, or do we need another software to create 3D objects and save files for which are loaded to the Orca to slice and save them for the printer to read, interpret and create?

i just got one for christmas, no idea how to use it but i’m excited :)

So I have a problem where the filament won’t go out no matter what temperature can someone help?

Great video! Where exactly do I find IP in my flashforge adventurer 5M settings? I found an IP address on the hotspot screen, but my orca slicer software fails to connect to it

how do i get it to my printer

bro that statue is sick!

Did you print with supports? I'm printing the parts now just realizing there's some overhang

A good description. I cut my teeth on an ender 3 V2, then got a Neptune 4 Pro, which was easy and reliable, especially in comparison to the Ender. To be fair, I do field service and tech support for industrial inkjet printers, so I don't find any of this terribly difficult. I just ordered the 4Plus for $30 less than I paid for the 4Pro 15 months ago. Maybe I'll eventually get one of the newest generation of multicolor core XY printers after the market shakes out a bit.

Any recommendations for filaments that would hold up to boiling or autoclaving?

**MAKE SURE YOUR HOTEND IS COMPLETELY COOLED DOWN BEFORE CHANGING IT

I've been experimenting with TGM-7 after getting frustrated with my D&D prints breaking when I take them out of the case. I'm loving the quality and flexibility of the prints I'm getting now with TGM-7. It was a challenge calibrating such a flexible resin. Ameralabs publishes settings for a lot of printers and the suggested time for my printer was 1.2 seconds. When running calibration tests I had a hard time seeing whether that was the right exposure due to the resin absorbing IPA from the wash, so I increased my exposure time. I found that the TGM-7 absorbs IPA and swells a bit, so I try not to let it sit in the IPA wash for more than about 12-15 minutes, and then let it rest after washing for about 2 hours before curing. After letting it rest a bit, the IPA evaporates, and it returns to the printed size. Ameralabs also suggests curing for 30 minutes, which is longer than what I was used to. But my prints are very flexible and still have sharp details that surprised me. Maybe I'm still printing it a touch over-exposed, but I haven't had failures with sketchily-supported models.

perfect! just did my first exchange! Thank you, you made this easy.

I am looking to get into 3D printing. I want to print both miniatures and terrain. I don’t have a lot of space inside my home, but the garage has room. I live in northeastern US where winters get kinda cold. Do any of the 3D printers require certain room temperatures to function? Will they break if set up and used in the garage where it may get cold a few months of the year?

Amazing to see the quality you can get with entry level printers! Enjoyed this video very much.

Excellent overview, extremely helpful!

New to 3D printing, just got myself the A1 - looks like I'm waiting for Bambu to get the 0.2mm nozzles in stock! :D

It should be ready. They've had over two years to work on it.

Great video.

I got this stuff recently, cost me 85 sterling on Amazon (that's probably over 100 bucks). My initial experience was not positive. Lots of failed prints which is money out the window (plus the aggravation of lots of printer cleaning. ) But I eventually realised that this stuff is very sensitive to temperature and retraction speeds. I had to get a heater for my printer (winter in Ireland- ambient temperature is rarely about 17c degrees) as it needs to be around 23-28 c to work well. Its more gultenous than other resins and a higher temp makes it viscous enough to avoid the fails I was getting. The other important aspect is slow lift rates for the plate, again the low viscosity may cause suction issues (many of my fails were caused by figures being pulled apart when printing). Ameralabs has a section on their site about the requirements of the resin which I read quickly and was like "yeah, yeah, I know how to print", but after the fails I followed the requirements carefully and got much better results. That and inputing their suggested printer settings made all the difference. So in all I would say its a good resin, but takes a bit of work to get results from. The figures are robust- they will break if you try to break them, but they are more "drop resistant" than "drop proof". They are more break resistant than other resins I've tried, but I haven't really tried that many. The cost is a big downside, but if I am going to paint figures I want to know they won't break, so I am willing to pay a bit more. Maybe not quite as much as they are asking, but maybe the cost will come down over time.

I guess looking good is subjective but... that wolfman at 9:32 does not look good at all. I throw away prints that look better than that. It looks like a muddy mess. All the detail is gone and looks overexposed...

Thank you! Great Video! Do you leave the resin in the Vat, or do you clean it after every print?

Check out SBS. It’s one of my favorites.

I would guess a multi nozzle size head, would make sense for the speed up the infill and keep fine details

I can’t get my print to stick fresh out the box, without or without glue.

Thanks!

I'm not seeing this version on the flash forge site. Why isn't there first party software for my printer? I don't trust it.

OMG.. I was looking for something like this before I made my purchase for my 9yo grandson. I was looking at the Toybox and the Flashforge 5M Pro. I went with the Flashforge because reviews for the Toybox tray were NG, and the price difference was a little over 100 dollars.

Mini Without a doubt just the ecosystem itself is so user friendly. and it can be as easy or as complicated as you'd want to.

THANK YOU! i needed this !

M'dude. If you're buying from Temu you have to expect bootlegs.

Tried to order a new film sheet to my nova3d printer - and found that all the Amazon shops In europe was out of stock of any kind of hardware, but still had some resin on the shelf. Then I tried to bye some from their homepage directly even though that tax and shipping is crazy. And then my bank refused or held back the transaction because - as they said - a lot of customers had difficulty with this firm. Anyone know what's going on?

I would pick A1 mini as well

Amen, I would second that recommendation!

Patiently waiting in line for my printer to be shipped. Thanks for the video