I just want to say, "Thank you" - Humebeam doesn't say to put the rubber tubes back on. In his video - it shows him taking off the rubber tubes - then he reaches for another already assembled piece with no mention of the putting the tube back on. So, thank you for mentioning that. Seems like it should be a given, but I have "not" followed directions before and had to undo everything and start over. I lost a couple of hours trying to find out why my Hydra Pro didn't work correctly. BTW - you wouldn't know where I could find a couple of those rubber tubes do you? One tore taking it off.
Thank you! I'm glad my video helped you get your hydra ams up and running correctly!! For the rollers, you would have to buy a new assembly. They are 5.99us from bambu. I too ripped one when doing some of the assembly. I left it and haven't found it to be an issue. But the link to those new assemblies is below! Thank you for watching and supporting! Let me know if you need any help with anything else. us.store.bambulab.com/collections/spare-parts-spool-driving-parts-ams/products/ams-active-support-shaft-assembly
Question: I have two AMS on my X1-C. I already have the Hydra Pro for one of them, but I'm wondering if I should go Python with the other one, Hydra Pro, or keep one bone-stack and mod the other with what I have. The rubber rollers are why I've never done my Hydra install. I was concerned enough that I actually went ahead and bought a full se4t of the rollers just in case. Luckily Bambu Lab has very reasonable pricing on replacement parts. Another question: Do the desiccant trays that work for the factory chassis work in the Hydra Pro?
My preference has been to keep one in standard configuration and my second ams I upgraded to the hydra pro (Now a python). The rubber rollers are tricky and can be hard to remove without damaging. I too bought some extras just incase. The deciccant trays for the front of the ams do work with the hydra / hydra pro. I haven't had any fitment issues. I'm using a python now without the enclosure. I think it really just depends on what materials your using and what spools. I really like the gear driven design of the python, I have zero issues with retraction and feeding now. Sometimes with the standard ams and the hydra I would have issues with spools, especially when they were very low on filament. I have a number of small sample spools that I have been testing 250g rolls. They work fantastic in the python, really can't get them working well in the hydra. If you do the python with the enclosure it really takes up a lot of space so you have to consider that as well. I have been printing mostly pla and petg with that setup so the enclosure wasn't a big factor as it's really not needed for what I utilize that setup for.
Humebeam just released a new version called the Python within the last day or two. It's much more involved and doesn't have the ability to fit within the stock ams enclosure. However, it also uses gears attached to each spool you use instead of rollers to essentially eliminate any issues with feed and retraction errors.
I watched that release video humebeam did the other day. It's a interesting design. I downloaded the print files but haven't had a change to go through them yet. Would probably be a good video to dive into to compare and test. I agree the gear design with the rollers is interesting, even with the hydra I have problems with the rollers from time to time I've noticed.
I mostly buy Polymaker filament, which comes on cardboard spools. The AMS comes with 4 of the refill spool skeletons, so I'll probably just do the hack where you rip the sides off a cardboard spool and load the core onto an empty Bambu spool.
That is a option and it works pretty well. I take a thin piece of string and band the filament before I rip the one side off just to help keep it from potentially coming undone. Polymaker fits nicely.
@@Enchanted3DPrints So I have heard that the way the spools are made makes a difference. Compressed cardboard is hard and doesn't seem to create the same about of cardboard "dust" they are worried about messing up things. What filament are you using?
@@ThePrintasaurus That is very true. In the last year or so Ive seen most brands I use switch to either a composite or compressed versions and have also added a burnished edge or something similar to help it grip the rollers!
Yeah that one was a new lense. Slowly building out my filming equipment and some things are working better than others! Thanks for taken a look and checking out my content! Take care.
Yes the desiccant locations are removed. That is something I have been testing. These are what I am currently testing. They print well and are easy to install. The only thing I don't like is the tops slide off a little too easy if your not careful and you end up with desiccant everywhere!! I plan to do a review of 3 different designs but wanted to test first. makerworld.com/en/models/39647#profileId-156347
@@bseery Those I forget exist. Great idea! Thanks for watching! I just printed some desiccant holders that fit up front between the feeder motors / gears.
That works too. Not all need a visual reference but if you have a lot of things going on around you having a few marks to reference or numbers can help get back on track. Thanks for watching and supporting!
For the front rollers I just printed 8 small rings to fill the gap and put some shrink wrap around the roller. Way easier and non-destructive.
That is a great idea. It's not hard to mess up the rollers. Thanks for sharing!
EXCELLENT video and explanations. Thanks😉
Thank you!
I just want to say, "Thank you" - Humebeam doesn't say to put the rubber tubes back on. In his video - it shows him taking off the rubber tubes - then he reaches for another already assembled piece with no mention of the putting the tube back on. So, thank you for mentioning that. Seems like it should be a given, but I have "not" followed directions before and had to undo everything and start over. I lost a couple of hours trying to find out why my Hydra Pro didn't work correctly. BTW - you wouldn't know where I could find a couple of those rubber tubes do you? One tore taking it off.
Thank you! I'm glad my video helped you get your hydra ams up and running correctly!! For the rollers, you would have to buy a new assembly. They are 5.99us from bambu. I too ripped one when doing some of the assembly. I left it and haven't found it to be an issue. But the link to those new assemblies is below! Thank you for watching and supporting! Let me know if you need any help with anything else.
us.store.bambulab.com/collections/spare-parts-spool-driving-parts-ams/products/ams-active-support-shaft-assembly
Question: I have two AMS on my X1-C. I already have the Hydra Pro for one of them, but I'm wondering if I should go Python with the other one, Hydra Pro, or keep one bone-stack and mod the other with what I have.
The rubber rollers are why I've never done my Hydra install. I was concerned enough that I actually went ahead and bought a full se4t of the rollers just in case. Luckily Bambu Lab has very reasonable pricing on replacement parts.
Another question: Do the desiccant trays that work for the factory chassis work in the Hydra Pro?
My preference has been to keep one in standard configuration and my second ams I upgraded to the hydra pro (Now a python).
The rubber rollers are tricky and can be hard to remove without damaging. I too bought some extras just incase.
The deciccant trays for the front of the ams do work with the hydra / hydra pro. I haven't had any fitment issues.
I'm using a python now without the enclosure. I think it really just depends on what materials your using and what spools. I really like the gear driven design of the python, I have zero issues with retraction and feeding now. Sometimes with the standard ams and the hydra I would have issues with spools, especially when they were very low on filament. I have a number of small sample spools that I have been testing 250g rolls. They work fantastic in the python, really can't get them working well in the hydra.
If you do the python with the enclosure it really takes up a lot of space so you have to consider that as well. I have been printing mostly pla and petg with that setup so the enclosure wasn't a big factor as it's really not needed for what I utilize that setup for.
@@ThePrintasaurus greatly appreciate the information.
Humebeam just released a new version called the Python within the last day or two. It's much more involved and doesn't have the ability to fit within the stock ams enclosure. However, it also uses gears attached to each spool you use instead of rollers to essentially eliminate any issues with feed and retraction errors.
I watched that release video humebeam did the other day. It's a interesting design. I downloaded the print files but haven't had a change to go through them yet. Would probably be a good video to dive into to compare and test. I agree the gear design with the rollers is interesting, even with the hydra I have problems with the rollers from time to time I've noticed.
I mostly buy Polymaker filament, which comes on cardboard spools. The AMS comes with 4 of the refill spool skeletons, so I'll probably just do the hack where you rip the sides off a cardboard spool and load the core onto an empty Bambu spool.
That is a option and it works pretty well. I take a thin piece of string and band the filament before I rip the one side off just to help keep it from potentially coming undone. Polymaker fits nicely.
I use cardboard all the time without issue
@@Enchanted3DPrints So I have heard that the way the spools are made makes a difference. Compressed cardboard is hard and doesn't seem to create the same about of cardboard "dust" they are worried about messing up things.
What filament are you using?
@@ThePrintasaurus That is very true. In the last year or so Ive seen most brands I use switch to either a composite or compressed versions and have also added a burnished edge or something similar to help it grip the rollers!
There is skates you can attach to the cardboard so the rotate smoothe.
Please turn off auto focus if you’re static.
Yeah that one was a new lense. Slowly building out my filming equipment and some things are working better than others! Thanks for taken a look and checking out my content! Take care.
So you gain the ability to do smaller or many larger spools, but there's now no longer any room for dessicant?
Yes the desiccant locations are removed. That is something I have been testing. These are what I am currently testing. They print well and are easy to install. The only thing I don't like is the tops slide off a little too easy if your not careful and you end up with desiccant everywhere!! I plan to do a review of 3 different designs but wanted to test first.
makerworld.com/en/models/39647#profileId-156347
there is a mod to add a heater via external blower assembly piped to the ams
That I will have to look into, would be interesting to test if it works well!
I just use the holders you can print that hold desiccant/ silica gel beads inside of the center hole of the spools.
@@bseery Those I forget exist. Great idea! Thanks for watching! I just printed some desiccant holders that fit up front between the feeder motors / gears.
Easier just to buy or print spools, I print them and respool and no issues for no work and didn't change anything
That is always a option. I just printed a spooler to play around with. Have not had a chance to put it together yet. Thanks for watching!
7:35 too much waste of time and markers, I prefer to just remove the board, install it in the Hydra and then move every other component.
That works too. Not all need a visual reference but if you have a lot of things going on around you having a few marks to reference or numbers can help get back on track. Thanks for watching and supporting!