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Sad that I only can subscribe once to your channel, thank you for taking the time to show exactly what I needed to know.

I agree with other comments. Thoroughly explained most important video on ranger 2.5 ltr. Timing. Thank you Sir.

Glad to have the details and the measured explanation. Thanks very much, appreciate it

That was very interesting, who knew that there could be a fail in the procedure recommended. Thanks for walking me through the verification process. Very nice!

Is it possible to follow your steps & be 180° off at the end? All of my timing lines up, but no start. If I started at TDC in the exhaust stroke & not compression... The lobes over #1 are pointing inward... Thanks

the reason why jobs like this are such a Pain in the ass .is because for the Manufacturer. its "ease" of assembly. the suspension ,exhaust, powertrain, and fuel system, go in as a complete unit

Thank you for that. I work on mowers in my spare time and always just replace the starter. I now believe that I can rebuild it.

Exelente información gracias

Do you really have to pull the axel out ? They said that replacing the alternator on a 2.3 but I did it without removing the axel just pulled it straight from the top

Would you be so kind as to let me know what you used to remove the old sealer and what sealer (product) did you use to seal the case at re-assembly? Thank you

Question. At 12:45 you turned the crankshaft while the valves in two of the cylinders remained open as the cams weren't yet moving with the crank timing chain. If this is an interference engine, why didn't the pistons hit the two open valve cylinders ?

You, sir, are a genius! I’ve struggled with the same method and went through three designs of the wire length and configuration yet never really nailed it. I also had no idea of the actual installation technique which you show. Absolutely flawless in every aspect. Simple, to the point and beautifully executed technique and also video production qualities! Thank you SO much!

Thanks for your help... would the pin in the pully keep it from moving when tightening the pully?

Thank you for your help your tutorial help me after three days. Hard work.

Very very good idea and a good video however anybody who's doing this is going to be somewhat familiar with mechanics and a little of the on and on and on is unnecessary. Because I flipped ahead through most of your video

Nice! Love the work showing the waveforms on the o-scope! I love to be able to see detail like this!

Besides, being able to ruin the entire engine by loosening one bolt, why did they build it like this?

I got to fix mines my wheels turn but no power

Thanks

This is awesome thank you so much mister! At 27:50 to 28:00 you say 360 a second time when you mean to say "another 180". Mahalo from Maui!

Thank you! For real

Awesome Dude 👍👍👍

These videos are everything I was looking for and some. Thank you for taking all of us into consideration and doing this

You have mastered this fitment. Well done ❤

Excellent Video! How do you determine if the 9th tooth is marked correctly?

Excellent! Thank you.

Hmm the 2017 escapes have a bolt hole in the pulley, you need to align the the holes install a bolt leave your aligment tools in then torque the crank bolt ....

Hi Sir nice work van u help me with mine where are the washer are located o install the sliding pine inside the 2 washer but there is a little pin do the pin go inside the track or outside thank u

Brilliant -- saved me time, money, and sanity (what's left of it). Thanks so much!

This is a good explanation, it's just the whole idea of keyless doesn't look good to me. I build race motors, and not using dial indicators, degree wheels, and locking things in position beforehand, doesn't seem accurate/fool-proof enough for me, eg, resting a certain length protrusion bolt against a flat on a crank can introduce errors if it's a tny bit out. A quick tip is to use a pushrod, ie, it has an oil hole in the end, or drill an indent into the end of your rod, and that will hold the tip of a dial indicator, which will give you a more accurate location of TDC.

Great video. We replaced our fuel pump + ring the other week, but when connection the lower fuel line (Going from the pump down) to the metal fuel line it is leaking. We even bought an a new lower fuel line, but it is still leaking. Any idea what could be causing it to leak?

Lovely

Oil

My problem was just a gob of sealant in gear, but what I need to know is how much ( ounces ) of gear go back in transmission? Thanks

Thank-you...Thank-you...THANK-YOU

I am doing a 2.0L '97 Mazda 626, and I was lost for a few weeks until I found you.

YOU"RE the most beautiful part of this whole thing!! You are a BLESSING! Thank you!

A less complicated and time consuming process is to use toothpicks😮.

I blieve that's called a commutator, not a commentator. 😊

Brilliant. Thank you.

Why not just put a longer screw and screw it into that cross support behind the front servo

Does anyone have the seal number

Thank you!

Very Good Video -- THANKS !!

All killer, no filler!

thank you, you are really handy ... I hate attempting anything like this LOL

90$ for two of them Dimond coated washers 😭

4 thumb tacks are all ive ever used. Seems a lot quicker and easier then this

Excellent, thank you

82 FOOT Pounds 😳😳 or did you mean inch pounds