Видео

Awesome Dude 👍👍👍

These videos are everything I was looking for and some. Thank you for taking all of us into consideration and doing this

You have mastered this fitment. Well done ❤

Excellent Video! How do you determine if the 9th tooth is marked correctly?

Excellent! Thank you.

Hmm the 2017 escapes have a bolt hole in the pulley, you need to align the the holes install a bolt leave your aligment tools in then torque the crank bolt ....

Hi Sir nice work van u help me with mine where are the washer are located o install the sliding pine inside the 2 washer but there is a little pin do the pin go inside the track or outside thank u

Brilliant -- saved me time, money, and sanity (what's left of it). Thanks so much!

This is a good explanation, it's just the whole idea of keyless doesn't look good to me. I build race motors, and not using dial indicators, degree wheels, and locking things in position beforehand, doesn't seem accurate/fool-proof enough for me, eg, resting a certain length protrusion bolt against a flat on a crank can introduce errors if it's a tny bit out. A quick tip is to use a pushrod, ie, it has an oil hole in the end, or drill an indent into the end of your rod, and that will hold the tip of a dial indicator, which will give you a more accurate location of TDC.

Great video. We replaced our fuel pump + ring the other week, but when connection the lower fuel line (Going from the pump down) to the metal fuel line it is leaking. We even bought an a new lower fuel line, but it is still leaking. Any idea what could be causing it to leak?

Lovely

Oil

My problem was just a gob of sealant in gear, but what I need to know is how much ( ounces ) of gear go back in transmission? Thanks

Thank-you...Thank-you...THANK-YOU

I am doing a 2.0L '97 Mazda 626, and I was lost for a few weeks until I found you.

YOU"RE the most beautiful part of this whole thing!! You are a BLESSING! Thank you!

A less complicated and time consuming process is to use toothpicks😮.

I blieve that's called a commutator, not a commentator. 😊

Brilliant. Thank you.

Why not just put a longer screw and screw it into that cross support behind the front servo

Does anyone have the seal number

Thank you!

Very Good Video -- THANKS !!

All killer, no filler!

thank you, you are really handy ... I hate attempting anything like this LOL

90$ for two of them Dimond coated washers 😭

4 thumb tacks are all ive ever used. Seems a lot quicker and easier then this

Excellent, thank you

82 FOOT Pounds 😳😳 or did you mean inch pounds

Thanks for being very thorough. One thing I do want to bring up, is this: We don't always remove the engine from the car. So turning the crank to bring back to top dead center would probably have to be done by turning the flywheel. Remove the starter and access it from there. With a large prytool it can be done and may take a few tries, it will get done. Appreciate you taking the time. Carlos

It would probably be a good idea to heat the drill bit you used with a torch to take the heat tempering out of it to make it tougher to break before you installed it.

The easy way is to buy the whole brushing kit with clips already in and pull out .

Thanks for the video. I bought the replacement OCV seal from Twisted Tuning. However, my old OCV seal torn apart. The outer ring stuck on the valve cover. Any suggestion to get that sucker out?

6 years on, and your video has helped me immensely, thanks!

this series is the best thing ever. i am on my way to part 4. i do have a question to anyone who may know. i am seeing statements that the Mazda 2.5 is an interference engine. from the videos it appears to not be. does anyone know for sure who has done this? also if it is not an interference engine and you loose a timing chain is it catastrophic?

Had to reconfigure four port heater valve. Purchased two after market, both leaked.

I wanted to thank you first. Since you have one apart, what are the ports on rear of engine? Not ideal place for maintenance.

Does the VVT actuator need to be aligned a certain way? There are so many videos out there where they mark the VVT actuator before removing it, to ensure it goes back in the same position on the cam. What is the significance of that? Also, should the VVT actuator be locked with pin when timing? Or floating?

Again how you know it is 9th tooth?

Reference for 9th tooth?

Pin in front for what?

Where is cam shaft timing plate? Is auto store going to look crazy when I ask for one?

I'm about to do a 2.3 to 2.5 conversion in my 2004 Mazda 3. This was a great help. Thanks!

These ocv are a definite pita, poor design lazy Mazda and Ford engineers.

Thank you so much!!!

Thanks a lot 4 your information..

Presentation well understood. I am currently having timing issue with my Atenza. Had a damaged crankshaft pulley and one of my friends took the pulley out without setting it on TDC. Unfortunately, I wasn't unable to find a replacement pulley so i decided to weld the two pieces together. After all that, i had it fitted back on and started having problem starting.

If you don't know don't say

Hey man thanks alot. The manual was difficult to under stand on this procedure but now it all clicks and actually is my favorite engine to time.

Thank you for posting, i am a young lady trying to get my 2005 3s fixed up so it stops stalling. I’ve had mechanics take advantage of me and my mother before so I’m goin solo!