2005 Mazda 3 - 2.3L to 2.5L Engine Swap. Timing Fix!
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- ****Viewers, skip the first 5:21 of this video! It's not worth watching and I was wrong about a few things. Go right to 5:21 since that is when the in car engine timing starts!****
I have four highly detailed timing videos that are much better than this one. If you want to see the timing done with the engine in the car this is okay to watch after 5:21. If you want all the details, watch the other four videos.
Since I had never done the crank pulley timing before, this video turned is basically me teaching myself the procedure as I go along while you look over my shoulder.
If you're an experienced tech, just watch from 10:25 to 12:26 and then from 32:38 on. The rest will probably just put you to sleep.
I did this engine swap 3 years ago and there were no videos online at that time regarding how to do this that I could find. It was quite the experience. I sourced a 2011 fusion engine with 31,000 miles on it for $600, and now the swap has 55,000 miles on it, and I couldn't be happier that I saved this car(I had only had it for 3 months when the engine failed). It has been fun watching these videos and taking a trip down memory lane on this project. Regarding the timing, I did make a bracket that bolted the flywheel side of the crankshaft to the case, which allowed me to tighten things down without having things move at all. Great videos, and I'm sure this will really help people wrap their heads around this project before they get started, or get through some of the tough spots.
Good to hear from you Matt. Did you ever post any of the swap info on Mazda3Forums.com? That's where I first found out that the swap was possible and gathered all of the details to swap mine. This timing thing really bugged me though because everybody that talked about it was so vague, the FSM is somewhat useless, and even pro's struggle with it. I also have a Mazda 6 that has a Fusion swap. My son drives the car and he has put around 60k on it without any problems at all. Haha, I just put an alternator in it yesterday and today I'm polishing his headlights.
@@baxrok2. I did not post anything on the forums, as I didn't feel like I had much to add. I was just trying to get my car back on the road honestly. There was a guy named Dean from the forum that was absolutely invaluable when I had questions. He was also the guy who sold me the bracket to mount the throttle body to the intake manifold. It looked like you may have bought the same one from the same guy unless there are multiple people selling them. I too did the headlights, and have had to change stuff like the starter since the swap. I hope to get another 80K out of it or so. It's a fun car to drive and really pretty nice and modern for a 2006.
Please don't ever take these videos down. Very good information.
SlowcarsInc I'm glad they're helping!
Hands down, the best detailed description that I have ever seen on RUclips. Excellent work and I hope you know how much I appreciate your guidance
I will attach a link of all of your videos on my Facebook account so it gets recognized even more. thank you
It's painful to watch for sure, but I was learning as I went and also trying to explain. Not too good but hopefully good enough.
here's our follow-up, we swapped the 2.5 crank pulley for a new 2.3 pulley, turns out whom ever did the engine swap missed that detail. the pulley was off by one tooth & the slots of the cams were off by 10 degrees. in addition, to the timing codes we had two O2 sensor codes. we performed the timing exercise exactly as you did & now we are 100% times! we also replaced the serpentine belt & two O2 sensors. the engine is now as smooth as silk & no codes! when that vvt kicks in it's an amazing feeling, it's like turbo power without the turbo lag. we owe it all to you, you are an amazing diy'er my cousin just subscribed to your channel, we look forward to many more videos form you. keep up the great work, I will post mileage info from time to time. thanks a mil.
maywattee Congratulations. Well done!
By far...one of the best online...guide
Bloody fantastic video mate! I love how you took your time to explain things thoroughly and clearly! Thanks
Thanks! If you liked this, you should watch my four part series on every single detail of timing the 2.0/2.3/2.5's! I go into extensive detail showing everything. I don't show the timing belt or VVT gear since there are plenty of great videos on that already.
Thank you for this! Didn't know pulley wasn't keyed and pulled balancer off for a welder to repair bottom serpentine belt tensioner hole (broke off immediately when breaking bolt loose). Thought I was probably completely hosed when I saw no key slot in crank. Was able to re-time by pulling the starter and back up and running after waiting for washer to arrive!
Sorry to be the guy with all the comments! But I found that on my car at least (2007 Mazda5), the driveshaft didn't need to come out, just remove the 3 bolts and pry it a bit, while installing the crank pin. Was very tight this way but I figured better than removing it. Maybe you've already figured this out since this is from 2017 but just figured I would add what happened on my vehicle
Anything to make the job easier is a good idea!
This timing is the easiest to do . As long as you have the tools it's a breeze but great detail video .
Thanks!
By the time you get this figured out you'll be an expert on Mazda's 2.5 engines. You really are a patient man. Very complete and well explained process. But I have to admit, I skipped ahead a little. :)
I don't blame you one bit Wyatt. Even I was cringing as I was editing it! Still, it might help someone out, so I left most of the footage in. No pain no gain!! lol
If I had this same project I'd be watching from front to back. I hope you get this thing figured out so we can go for a ride!
you can also use a CHAIN WRENCH with a piece of an old serpentine belt to hold the crank pulley
He has the BEST VIDEOS, I've seen, on how, to do the timing on a motor. I have never done the timing on a motor before. But, after I have seen, your videos, I now know I CAN DO THE TIMING. THANK YOU SOO MUCH, for your videos, it will help me save so much money. BECAUSE, of his videos, it gives me the CONFEDENCE'S KNOWING THAT I CAN DO IT😉
On the ford fusion you can access the fly wheel from the underside of the engine coming from the transmission side of the bellhousing. Eliminates the removal of the starter. Just a tip.
Awesome! That's good to know and a big time saver. Thanks!
Absolutely. Very good detailed video. Keep up the information saving people lots of money and time. Being a service engineer for Chrysler providing this type of information as much as I can is very pleasing. Thanks again.
Everything is worth Watching! Good Job!!
I watched your other series today inside your garage giving the full lesson with the engine out of the car, I mentioned you did not show cam lobe angles at TDC Compression stroke but you did here, thank you. The crank pulley bolt is fat and should be able to be reused but most of the time when a bolt has a Torque To Yield final tightening of some number of degrees, 90 degrees in your case, these TTY bolts should be replaced. Since these engines are friction fit as you call it, I would also use locktite on this bolt as a backup measure.
For your future viewers to be sure that the crank pulley does not move, it is very important as the crank position reluctor wheel is attached directly to the back of the pulley and it must not move for ignition timing purposes and time correlation between the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor for whatever computer timing purposes. A minor deviation will also translate into power and fuel economy to drive the importance home to the DIYers who don't have special tools or feel perfection is of no great importance.
Yes, all good points. I cover all of them here: ruclips.net/video/gH19FGvK-58/видео.html
I think you got it.Never give up
Thanks. Yeah, in the end I am the only backup plan that I have, so no choice but to keep after it! lol
Good tips in this video... I can see how loosening the crank bolt after rotating to stop and making sure that the crank didn't move back, is a step that can be overlooked! Diamond washer is on the inside & outside of the crank pulley? Is there another between the chain sprocket & crankshaft?
Two diamond washers total. One on each side of the chain sprocket. So, one between sprocket and crank and one between sprocket and pulley. Amazingly, on the 2.3 Mazda does not specify washers at all! But Ford calls for two on the 2.5's. Thanks!
Baxrok2
I just dissected a 2008 2.3 mzr and it has two diamond washers.
I got the piston top dead center loosened that bolt then took a cloth around the shaft and and vice grips not all that tight and nudged the counterweight back into the locking pin.
I put crank at bolt
Then marked the crank to the case with paint pen
I loosened the crank bolt with impact and made sure it didn’t move
@@gkolkman4 That sounds like a sensible option.
if you are ever in NYC give me a heads-up, would love to buy you a drink!
Just put up number and then at the bottom put the spot to 6 o’clock but something in the hole so it won’t move and the crank sensor push it down put everything back together turn key off and on so gas can get up there now start the car👍💵
is it the same engine as the ford company build in the ford focus
From 2005 to 2011 yes.
Ford focus and mazda 3 have same eniginea in those years
I hear it's important to change the diamond washer to the harmonic balancer, I got a new bolt and washer, but I noticed there's another washer behind the chain sprocket, do I have to change that one as well? I can't find that specific washer, I can only find the bolt with diamond washer, is it the same as the one behind the sprocket?
the latest update is we replaced crankshaft & camshaft sensors with new 2010 sensors but they made no difference. perhaps we should have tried replacing them with the 2007 2.3 sensors?
I have a quick question, in what position does the sprocket on the exhaust camshaft go? (Not the vvt sprocket)Theirs no mark or indication as to how to install it! Thank you.
The sprockets aren't marked. Basically, you lock the cams with the tool, put the chain on, then lock the sprockets down. There are other videos on that and most of them are about replacing the VVT but cover both sprockets.
I have another video titled: Problems, Problems where I talk about it. It would start but barely run. If you stepped on the gas it would just die, so no power at all. Intake manifold vacuum was 9.
question for you, when you swapped the 2.5 pulley for the 2.3 pulley did the 2.3 pulley fit right on the crankshaft without a problem? did you need to make any modifications to switch the two pulleys? thanks.
Rupert Gaznabbi No, it's direct fit. Slides right on.
First, thanks for great videos and explanation. Excellent !!!
So you have not replaced the second friction washer, is is ok not to do it? I need te reseal my timing cover - ofcourse on a car, and I'm afraid i won't be able to take off oil pump sprocket - I saw many people have problems taking it off, its damn tight. Its M6 2.5L.
I have ttree other follow-up questions regarding timing. first, when the cams r aligned with the timing plate, how can I adjust the position of the timing wheel on the intake cam if needed? second, when u said that at tdc the cam lobes of the cams r facing each other, u mean that the pointed ends of the lobes of cylinder one on both the intake & exhaust cams r facing each other, correct? third, how did u identify the ninth tooth on u r crankshaft pulley. I noticed it had a white mark, did u put that mark or was I manufactured like that? I don't believe our crankshaft has any markings on the teeth. thanks again.
hi there sir if my motor is still in time and i wont to put a new timing chain and i put it on tdc and lock the cam it sued work i maybe ? thank you for the info
Yes, you would lock cams and set crank to TDC, replace chain and tensioner, remove tools, verify timing and should be good to go.
Thank for all this information, going through your videos now, watched the warning one :). I've started on my swap, any chance you could share the dimension of the peg? I have a small machine shop and it will be easiest for me to turn one on the lathe. I'm looking for the peg diameter and length, Including the threads but not the hex head. Thanks
Believe it or not, I don't have the dimensions of the peg. Also, I no longer have the timing tools (or the car.) However, if you search there are dimensions available on the web.
ruclips.net/video/D3o6rPzu2jo/видео.html
What's the problem did you notice why you suspect the timing is off? Does it make loud sound or perhaps consumes much gasoline than normal?
okay thanks i was i little suprised to find out mazda ford use the same engine.
I just subscribed! Great series of videos, u r better than most professors! I admire your dedication to this swap. I have a situation, which u may b able to shed some light on. I recently bought an ‘07 Mazda 6 & just found out that the engine was swapped to a 2.5. The problems with my engine r long crank time to start up, rough idle, sluggish in stop n go driving but smooth & powerful at highway speeds. & off course check engine light. my question r; I am not sure if the new engine is from a ford fusion or a Mazda 6, I think it's a Mazda 2.5 cause it uses those annoying paper oil filters & I think no 2.5 fusion comes with this type of oil filter, correct? second, there is a factory sticker on the side of the valve cover with I presume the serial number & the number 2.5 along with some other numbers. do u know how to decipher this sticker to I.d. this engine? the dealers r not helpful on this one. third, r all the parts u switched from u r donor to the donee engine the same for the 6 as well as the 3? fourth, did u reprogram or change the original 2.3 computer in the car to work with the new 2.5 engine? I did not see any evidence of u touching the original computer in any of u r videos & by the way, I have watched each of u r videos approx ten times to make sure I didn't miss anything. thank you in advance for u r response to my questions.
I agree that the engine is most likely a Mazda engine as the filter is the giveaway. I don't know of any Fords that use a cartridge. I have yet to find any information that explains the meaning of the stickers. Yes, for both the 6 and 3 swaps you keep the Mazda sensors. I have not done a 6 swap but I think it's the same regarding timing cover and pulleys, etc,. The HappyWrenching site answers that question clearly in the beginning I believe.
No, there is no need to reprogram the computer. It has been shown time and again that the stock computer works just fine with the 2.5 block, original sensors, the 2.3 or 2.5 intake manifold, the 2.3 TB, and the 2.3 injectors. Some choose to run the 2.5 injectors with good results. In my Details Blah Blah Blah video I talk about this. This subject is covered in great detail on the Mazda3Forums that I linked to.
So, you have a driveability issue. You have a code for direction. I'd say you can now get started troubleshooting your problem. With either a Ford or Mazda 2.5 block or a 2.3/2.5 computer, troubleshooting your problem is the same. Good luck!
the revealing answer to u r question is, no, we did not just swap the engine. actually we just bought the car from a guy who goes to the auto the auction. we now realize that the engine was swapped after we took off the engine cover to do some servicing, isn't that rich! off course he seller claims no knowledge of the engine swap, so now we r "forced DIY‘s." therefore, we greatly appreciate all of u r videos & answers to our questions. what source did u use to get the torque specs for the parts u switched, would the torque spec b the same for u r Mazda 3 & my 6? specifically, r the torque specs of the pulley bolt the same for my 6 & u r 3? r the torque specs r dependant on the yr of the donee engine as opposed to the yr of the car?
Rupert Gaznabbi Torque specs are the same.
Rupert Gaznabbi Source is Mazda service manual.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but did you have to remove the oil?
thanks for that info, how can I get my hands on the service manual for my model? is it readily available at the local dealer? in u r video u talked about changing the timing wheel on the intake cam to match u r car's computer. that wheel is a press-on fit. as a dyi'er how did u make the switch? what is involved in removing the cam, what do we need to pay attention to here? I imagine the timing chain position is critical here. do u have any videos of this process? thanks again.
Hi Baxrok2, is it your mazda automatic, that 2.5 you get it from what car and it was autmatic, it was a direct fit for harnesses and transmission??? By the way im watching you videos anytime i have a chance so little by little there i go!!! Thanks in advance...
My car was a manual. The one I bought was an automatic. You just have to add a pilot bearing to make it work for the manual. Good luck on your swap!
thanks for this info. we will also replace the serpentine belt when swapping the pulleys. which belt did you use on your 2.5 engine? the part numbers for the 2.3 & 2.5 belts are different, indicating that the belts are different. the codes we are having right now are P0011, P0016, P0031 & P0037. the first & second codes are timing related. the third & fourth codes are O2 sensor related. did you have the same codes when your timing was off?
Rupert Gaznabbi Since you are using all 2.3 components you'll use the 2.3 belt. Amazingly, I didn't have a single timing related code!
the latest discovery is we found out that the crankshaft pulley is from the 2.5 engine, they never swapped the pulley from the original 2.3 engine! And the plot thickens.....stay tuned for more discoveries on this engine swap. in two weeks I plan to get a RUclips channel and post a video of our repairs on the swap. we will dedicate the video to u so check u r comments I will give u a heads-up when it's posted. we would appreciate all of u r feedback & encouragement.
Yes, you have to use all of the Mazda 2.3 sensors, the timing cover, and the crank pulley. Keep the Mazda 2.3 computer. You can keep the 2.3 intake manifold but need a special spacer to prevent leaks. You can use the 2.5 intake but need a spacer for the throttle body which allows you to use the 2.3 throttle body. Again, I talk about this in my Details Blah Blah Blah video. Further information is available on the HappyWrenching website which is specifically for the Mazda 6 engine swap. Also, the Mazda3Forums has two threads specifically for the 2.5 swap and offers highly detailed information.
at min 13:40 you show the tool but then don't show you screwing it in. I have been trying to put that tool in but the steering is in the way any solutions ?
If you look closely, you can see that I have the halfshaft that goes to the passenger side wheel removed which opens up all of that room and that's how I got the timing peg screwed in. As an alternative, it may be possible to loosen the bracket at the halfshaft enough to allow you to get the peg in. It's a pain in the ass to do all of this just to get the peg in, but you have no other choice that I know of.
Ok thank you that was helpful by the way your videos are very helpful 👌🏼
thank you for u r detailed response. today we replaced the vct solenoid/actuator but there's no difference. the codes I get r O2 sensor & intake cam advance timing. I am thinking the issue could b the crankshaft pulley because of the long start up time. I know there r small differences between the Ford & Mazda 2.5 pulleys but do u know if there r any differences between the Mazda 2.3 & 2.5 pulleys? I hope we can continue our thread until I fix this problem. thanks again for u r insight.
Rupert Gaznabbi No, I don't know if there are differences between the 2.3 and 2.5 pulleys. I would be surprised if they were different. Using the 2007 computer would most likely require the use of the 2.3 pulley. So, the 9th tooth lines up with crank sensor. Also, if the pulleys were different the car most likely never would have run with the wrong pulley. Did you just swap the engine or has the car been running before this?
After removing the Crankshaft pulley bolt how did you get it off ?
It just slides right off! There isn't anything else to hold it in place.
I thought so it must be stuck I'll spray some pb blaster on it and let it soak...
Great video, you should be a teacher. I'm trying to understand, how is chain sprocket attached to crank. You've been able to turn the crack, while cams have been in fixed position, so chain sprocket inside the engine have to be loose.
I watched your next video and there it is nicely explained. There is diamond washer between crank and chain sprocket and then between chain sprocket and pulley, so when the bolt is tighten, there are held in place by friction. Great videos though
I made an entire four part series on this. Watch part three to see how it all works. (Timing The Mazda/Ford 2.0/2.3/2.5 Engines. Part 3 - Tools, Components, Etc,.)
Hi I had a question , I have a 2004 Mazda 3 2.3 hatchback and I want to install a 2008 Mazda 2 2.3 hatchback engine long block , my coils connection don’t fit my old harness so I installed the old ones , my crank sensor & camshaft sensor was different and swapped it with over , is there anything eles I would need to swap over???
2008 Mazda 3 *
@@needforspeed6384 It's been a couple of years since I had my 3 so I can't really recall. However, I thought the only connectors that were an issue were the ones you mentioned with cam sensor and coils being the most common. If you need more help, I suggest that you go to Mazda3Forums.com for help. That is where I found all of the info that I needed to do my swap. Those guys have done it all!
So I don't understand, did you completely get this done wrong?
I paid somebody to do it, they fucked it up but I didn't know it till I figured it out myself. In the video before this, I went through the process of checking and verifying the timing. It was out, so in this video I go through the process of correcting the TDC problem where the crankshaft is out of time. In the very beginning of this video, I clarify that I'm not going through the entire three step process of timing one of these engines. Instead, I'm just doing the crankshaft part.
Thanks, been wrenching for many years, dropped the bottom pully on an engine swap to pull out the top, all I can say who is built this crap? :-)
Thank u so much I did that in 30 min
Well done!
the question that should be asked is WHY did Mazda not KEY the PULLEY/CRANK snout and mark the cams and cylinder head like they and every other manufacturer has for YEARS...VVT or not - STUPID
meat furbush probably they do like that for sell the locking cam set tool!
Nonya Bizness Yes, you’re right. I’m gonna plan to replace the timing chain to my Ford Focus 2010. After watched a lot the video and paid a lot money for all stupid stuffs to DIY at my backyard. Bull sh...Ford make a new stupid design like that. I promise myself will buy Japanese car in future. Never use Ford car anymore.
So you have to have the pulley on in order to set your cams. In your other video I seen you use a wrench on your cams,?
In one of my videos I mention that you can do it either way. By turning the camshafts or by putting on the crank pulley. You do have to be careful if you do it with the crankshaft since if the camshafts are in a certain position you can bump the valves. Better to turn the camshafts IMO.
hi im from the phil.. i need help.for parts... my car is 2.0 2004 mazda 3 at
.
its the cv axle on the right side that i need.. the housing the holds the tri bearing is worn out, where did you buy the parts for your mazda? here in the phil its a bit more expensive and its hard to get one espacially the right cv axle
Gab bab I buy almost all of my parts online from the following site: RockAuto.com
Ok now my pulley is on with the six mm bolt in and my mark is way off at 11 0'clock not even close to the sensor . were are you counting 9 teeth from?
snowblind5151 9 teeth from the gap. The ninth tooth should be on the left right where the sensor goes with the sensor centered in its mount.
I did/am doing this with my 2007 Mazda, and at the moment it's in and it starts. The problem is that the ECU is saying the timing is advanced by %10 and it runs bad. The crank was put on after TDC was found. Could anyone help with ideas on how to fix?
Peyton Garland Can you clarify what you mean by, "The crank was put on after TDC was found."
I had to swap out the crank pully on the 2.5 with the one from the 2.3l
Peyton Garland Okay, you did the entire timing procedure. The last step is putting the crank pulley on, snugging the bolt, and then turning the engine over a few times, then verifying the timing one final time. After that, you put the crank sensor on and make sure it's centered over the ninth tooth of the pulley. Did you center the sensor over the correct tooth etc,?
I can't check at the moment, but the pulley comes with a mark on that tooth for the senser, so I'd like to say yes it is. Could it be a problem with the timing cog on the intake cam?
Peyton Garland It could be a problem with either, or both. Verify the easy stuff first and go from there. Definitely no 'good enough' or "I'd like to think" about this stuff! It has to be right.
Did this swap with a ton of your help got CEL ....idle drifting from 1 to 2.5 rpm initially AutoZone code said throttle body. Dropped in new one now drift is less (.5 to 1 rpm) code for MAF.....any ideas? Car works great thank you for your help this is only problem that remains!
Well, check thoroughly for vacuum leaks. After that, you'll probably need a scan tool of some kind to look at fuel trims for guidance.
Hey Carnell do you get to fix the idle problem???
@@juangonzalez-kd9xz Hello Juan I did! Had to take it to mechanic..after replacing MAF and Throttle Body problem still existed(car had 350k miles on it anyway thought it was time). Turned out to be a short in the MAF sensor harness!! Best 100.00 bucks I ever spent though....it was driving me crazy!
Hi Baxrok2, hwre i am again forgot to ask, from what car you get the engine, what model and year? Then again in advance!!!👨🔧
2011 Ford Fusion. Good luck!
Hey! I was talking with Thomas EXOVCDS and he mentioned you might be the better person to talk about Mazda 3's. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind answering some questions for me?
Well, I'm hardly an expert, but I can try to answer. What's going on?
Well I've been trying to find diy videos or walk through for Mazda 3's and it seems nothing it out there but how to change your oil. I have a 07 Mazda 3i 2.0L automatic that I need to replace the oil pan on (stripped oil pan threads, surprise, surprise). What little information I have found, has been conflicting. Some say you have to remove bolts from the transaxle, along with ignition coil, serpentine belt, a/c elastic belt etc... Others said you just need to remove the a/c compressor. Do you have any insight or could you point me into the right direction on where I can get proper information?
If you go to my video about 'The Details blah, blah, blah' a guy just contacted me about this very thing. He successfully took off his oil pan with the engine in the car. From what he said, nothing else needed to come off and that makes sense to me. I'm waiting to hear back from him about the installation of the new pan and how it went. His name is Allen Alonzo. You can read our interaction and even communicate with or contact him directly. Let us know how it goes.
As far as walk through materials, I have not seen anything either. No YT videos or anything else aside from the factory service manual. Fortunately, on the Mazda's, which I think includes the 2.0's as well, it's a pretty straightforward operation. The main challenge, as I see it, will be properly sealing the new pan. You have to go both upward and inward in order to get the pan in place which may disturb the Permatex sealant along the way. To Allen I suggested removing the transmission, but he seems to think that isn't necessary.
Also, search YT and Google for, how to repair stripped oil pan threads or how to repair oil pan drain plug. You may not need to drop the pan if you can repair the threads or find a suitable replacement drain plug.
Hi sir
I have been watched all of your four videos about details for this process when engine was out of car but honestly i cant understand after you put camshaft plate and timing peg then rotating the crankshaft by bolt to make it timing with camshaft gears then when you loosn the crankshaft pulley bolt to putting crankshaft pulley to be timed with all others how you guarantee the crankshaft not slipped counter-clockwise when you did it although engine still on the car ? How you prevent crankshaft to move a little ?
I hope my question is clear ?
In this video, I talk about exactly how that can happen and how to verify that the crankshaft is at top dead center! ruclips.net/video/gH19FGvK-58/видео.html
@@baxrok2.
OMG I got the point really your clarifications are so good in that video
but I still have a little question
How I can reach to the back side of crankshaft to return it against timing peg after loosen crankshaft pulley bolt without removing transmission from the engine maybe by removing the starter then rotating flywheel from there ? is that will work ?
@@mohammadamro4132 Yes, by removing the starter, you will have access to the flywheel. Then you can use it to move the crankshaft or to hold the crankshaft for the final tightening.
@@baxrok2.
Thank you for fast reply really I appreciate it you are awesome man .
Cool . looks like it should run
wtbm123
My 2010 Escape 2.5 L idler pulley mount just broke off spontaneously on me (50K miles!) and now I have to do all this to get a new pulley and belt back on. Worse, I'm in Mexico where everything has to be ordered 10 days in advance. I watched all your videos, and now feel I can do it in my sleep (famous last words! ), thanks mucho for putting these out.
Ford specs crank bolt removal with an an Air Impact. Do I really need it? Or will a 1/2" breaker w/cheater suffice ?
ceeweedsl Thanks, glad it helped! Bar and cheater will do.
I got it off, but wow, it took everything two of us had with cheaters. Bar with two bolts would not work. Had to fabricate a tool similar to Ford's by welding plate with long handle onto some pipe. Watching your video again, I see that it would have been easier pulling the starter to access the flywheel and not totally depending on my pulley tool as per Factory Service manual. Oops missed your recommendation before.
Yes, access to the flywheel makes it much easier! Well, you got it off so now you can get started on the repair.
my idler pulley cracked off also 64,000 miles
Hey how long is the crank timing bolt ??
The one that goes in the plug hole
I know it 10 mm x 1.5 threads
I just need the length
38mm
my chiltons says 63.4 mm
I have a Mazda 3 2006 that had an engine swap, just went through your procedure but noticed at the end that my crankshaft pulley is different than yours. With everything timed its at the 5th tooth and has multiple gaps in it vs the one I see on your pulley. Car was idling fine but very low on power, new pulley comes tomorrow so I am hoping it resolves my P0016 code. Not sure what this pulley is off of though.
Yeah, that is weird that it's different. All other things being okay, the low power makes sense if the timing is off. You do have to be careful to get the right pulley too. The turbo engines have a different pulley, and I'm not 100% sure but the 2.0's might be different too. Let me know if the new pulley fixes it.
Installed the new pulley after timing everything correctly and now she won't fire at all. Getting P0335 crankshaft sensor circuit A. I'm thinking that may have been the correct pulley but I can't figure out why it's different from yours. Parts store says this is what should be on my 06 2.3, though I did notice that their website has it listed for automatic trans and mine is manual.. not sure if that would change things on that end.
The only thing I can think of is that there is some confusion about which engine you actually have. From the Mazda document that I have it shows three possible crank pulleys. One for the Federal emissions engines which is what mine was and has one gap, and a California emissions engine which looks like it has multiple gaps. The CA spec pulley is aligned at the 4th tooth and not the 9th like mine. (for the CA engine the manual says, "align the CKP sensor with the centerline of the 4th tooth down from missing teeth.") Then there is the turbo engine which has a single gap but more and smaller teeth it appears.
For a 2006 2.3 engine, RockAuto shows two the two different pulleys but does not say which is which although I'm certain that mine was a Federal engine so one gap on the pulley. I don't think that auto/manual matters. I suggest that you got to Mazda3Forums.com and find the engine or the swap threads. Post your question there. Those guys know way more than me, are from all over the country, and are amazing. If it's ever been an issue somebody there has talked about it or done a DIY!
Thank you for all the help! I have posted on the forums and it does seem like I need the original pulley (with multiple gaps) to be reinstalled. I will get that done today and report back on whether or not that resolved the no start issue
Jacob Manley Huh, I wonder what is different about that pulley from mine. Let me know.
I having the same problem any tips in not to have a harder time
Dominique Moreno You can watch my other timing videos to help you understand the process and tools better. Otherwise, with the engine in the car this is how you do it. No shortcuts that I know of.
why is that the "..crankshaft now can spin independently of the camshafts.."?..(at 19:15)
Zvonimir Bobic Because once the crankshaft pulley is removed, only the crankshaft is turned with the crankshaft pulley bolt in place. The crankshaft pulley is what locks the cams and crankshaft together. See my other four videos for all of the details.
what? locks them how????
Zvonimir Bobic This is a keyless crankshaft system. The crankshaft pulley locks them together. The washers at 18:30 hold them along with the friction and force of the bolt torque.
very peculiar that is..thank you sir for your contribution
Gracias por tu buena información thanks
Thanks. Is this used for mazda 3 2009 z6 1.6?
No, only the 2.0/2.3/2/5.
Drive video soon? haha. I am interested in doing this swap in my 2007 mz3 hatchback.
xfire 599 Stay tuned!
Xfire 599 Ever do that to your 3?
2001 ranger 2.3 Would a 2.5 be a possible replacement?
I don't know anything about the Ranger trucks. Sorry.
I think that year may be SOHC
Is a 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 engine different from a 2006 Mazda 3 2.3?
The only difference that I know of is that the intake camshaft has a different timing wheel, 5 teeth vs 6 teeth. That is why if you have a 2004 or 2005 and do an engine swap to a 2006 or newer you have to change the timing wheel or the entire intake cam to the earlier version.
Thanks engine cranked over once I swapped the intake camshaft. But it still makes the same grinding sound I believe it's a bad VVT.
Phenomenal Gaming Grinding sound? That's not good. Bad VVT usually makes a clicking sound. Better check that out right away.
could you please tell if the timing tool is available on Amazon.com
Yes, it is available from multiple vendors on Amazon.
Sure.
Having to do this now too. Anyway I can email you?
It's best to ask questions here. That way others can benefit from it. That's the entire point of these videos.
I believe it's fair to say the mechanic owes you some retribution sir.
SlowcarsInc Yes, but unfortunately, that didn't happen. Thanks!
Baxrok2 I'm sorry that happened. Still watching your videos. I'm planning on building a 2 5 was worried about timing. Not anymore sir.
SlowcarsInc All you need to know should be here in the series. Good luck!
I'll keep up with you. You may not be into builds you may find my Mazda build interesting. It should combine parts from many models.
Does this also work for the mazdaspeed 3?
YoungInA3 Yes, the process is the same. The crank pulley on the turbos is timed differently since the timing wheel is different so watch for that. Consult the manual for the proper pulley timing. Also, I'm putting out a video or two on just the timing so that might help.
after setting all the timing ,engine unable to run ,but only keep cranking
Kong Th Make sure the crank sensor is properly positioned and working properly. Then check fuel and spark. Go from there.
thanks a lot for your video and suggestion.finally ,found out the sensor was failure
Hey! I worked on this exact swap little by little for the past two weeks. It was so successful for me and I'm very fortunate everything went well. I stumbled across these videos of yours the day before I finished my swap. Here's a video of my cranking up my engine when it finished.
ruclips.net/video/R1qokh-2cOg/видео.html
Great job! I saw your video and I know that feeling. Thanks!