Absolute life saver. 2.3 to 2.5 swap left me scratching my head at how disgusting the car was running, fixed the problem in 30mins after watching this. started right up strait after, purrs like a kitten and sprints like and athlete!
This is pure GOLD...I did a 2.0 to 2.5 swap, and found your videos...Now I know that I did not time it properly. I'm very confident this will solve my issues.
That was very interesting, who knew that there could be a fail in the procedure recommended. Thanks for walking me through the verification process. Very nice!
The series of videos you've made for timing this engine is by FAR the best resource I've found, thank you very much for putting these out. One helpful tip for those who have not pulled the engine entirely and do not have the ability to rotate the crankshaft from the back of the engine: You can cut a 1/4" thick piece of rubber sheet, then wrap it around the front of the crankshaft and secure it with a worm drive style hose clamp to make a very secure strap wrench, that assembly can then be rotated pretty easily by hand or with some channel locks without the risk of damage to the shaft.
Thanks for being very thorough. One thing I do want to bring up, is this: We don't always remove the engine from the car. So turning the crank to bring back to top dead center would probably have to be done by turning the flywheel. Remove the starter and access it from there. With a large prytool it can be done and may take a few tries, it will get done. Appreciate you taking the time. Carlos
Mazda, and Honda both had keyless cranks on their 4 cylinder engines. But, Honda has an additional shaft called a "balancer shaft" that the timing pin contacts. The balancer shaft was used to minimize vibration at higher engine rpm's. Very easy, and instructional video sir!
You’re video was very informative thank you. I found that you can use the harmonic balance bolt to set the timing as long as you remove it using an impact driver. I tested it three times and my timing remained. Saves you from having to drop the starter.
I want to thank you for this 4 part series. My 2016 Ford Fusion with the 2.5 jumped time and died at a stop sign. Thanks to this video series I completely understood what I was doing when I replaced the components using the All Data DIY manual. As it turns out, it jumped time because it was missing a friction washer between the crankshaft and the sprocket. With the M6 bolt in the pulley hole the cams lined up but the engine was still another 10-15 degrees from hitting the TDC peg. I’m surprised that the engine didn’t blow up. One tip I have is to definitely use the flats on the camshaft that look like a bolt to keep it from rotating while torquing the gears down.
you can use the impact gun to back off the crank pulley bolt and i bet the crank wont move. as you remove that bolt you can just keep an eye on your little tdc home made stick thing in the spark plug hole. By the way, that tdc stick is a great idea. Had you watched your tdc stick as you removed the crank pulley bolt you would have seen the crankshaft had moved because the stick would have went down a wee bit.
Really appreciate the tips and the concise explanation. I will be doing this job now. After timing it, I will remove the crank bolt with an impact, rather than by hand, and I believe this will allow me to remove the bolt without moving the crank out of place. Will report back on if that works. Cheers
Great video! Thanks! Thought I did the alignment perfectly after a valve job/timing chain replacement but it was running rough with P0015, P0016 camshaft/crankshaft misalignment engine codes. This video saved the day. A couple of notes that might help some folks: 1) The pulley on my 2006 Mazda 2.0 LF lined up on the fifth tooth not the ninth when I installed the M6 bolt. 2) I got a TDC alignment bolt online that is thinner than yours and can be installed without removing the driveaxle.
if the vehicle is manual you can utilize the drive train to rotate the crank back up against the peg after you remove the bolt, also you can load up the drive train to loosen the crankshaft bolt by selecting a gear and and locking 1 axle in a stationary position and rotating the other hub/axle, if the trans-axle/gearbox utilizes an LSD differential and the breakaway is not to light then you wont need to lock one of the axles, the torque is applied opposite so 5th gear will have the most torque but 4th gear should suffice.
Thank you for this video had to do an oil pan and front main seal on a 07 Miata 2.0 and pulled off the harmonic balancer without knowing it was a keyless balancer.
Its not just the crank bolt that did it, it would be better if keyed; when you go to back off the bolt you also reverse the tension in the Chain and compress the tensioner just enough that the crank walks back and then when you install the pulley its off by that amount.
Is it possible to follow your steps & be 180° off at the end? All of my timing lines up, but no start. If I started at TDC in the exhaust stroke & not compression... The lobes over #1 are pointing inward... Thanks
After i line up the crankshaft on the Peg and remove the bolt, i put on the timing cover and then when i put on the crankshaft pully i set the mark in the 3pm position and slightly tighten the crankshaft bolt then turn the crankshaft with a little force which moves the crankshaft and your hear it hit the peg if it had moved and continue turn the crankshaft gear which should have a little resistance until it lines up with the mark on the cover :)
Hanging out at the live stream last night was fun. I hope we can find a way to get together for a meet up (if Eric the car guy doesn't do it). You had some great visuals on this one which will make it easy to understand for anyone who is going to tackle this. Nice job.
What about the balancer shaft assembly ? How do you time the balancer shaft assembly to the crankshaft in the vehicle? Can miss timing the assembly result in catastrophic failure? We put rods and mains in a 05 escape hybrid with no thoughts to marking the balencer and the crank!
Hi ur videos have been so educative keep on sir.am from cameroon,pls any video on how to do tuning on ford escape hybrid 2.3 engine without removing from the car?
I'm Planning to do this on my Ford Ranger 2.3L engine. But, I hadn't intended to take it out of the vehicle. Can I rotate it from the back with the engine still in the vehicle?
This is a wonderful series. Thanks for putting it together. Would you happen to have the measurements for the thin portion of the camshaft positioning tool? I am trying to fabricate one but I can't find the dimensions anywhere. Thanks.
Hi sir I was so happy watching ur video so interesting, I got a ford escape engine that needs a valve timing but the engine is in the car can u help me with a video on how to do the timing without removing the engine from the car?thanks
You can use the Engine TDC pin with the engine in chassis you slide the boot off the axle end opposite the wheel end I just warmed it up with an old hair drier I keep in the shop same when I reinstalled it . You slide the boot off and you have plenty of access to install and remove the TDC timing pin it can be done in a matter of minutes.
i knew right when u popped off that crank and said, well its timed lol, i use a vicegrip and towel so i dont mar the crank to move the crank back just to make sure its hitting the peg before continuing, cuz again with the vicegrip u dont need to remove a bolt which invariable ends up moving the crank off the pin
Boy, I'm glad I choose the v6 on my Ford Escape, the lack of keyway or alignment pins on all the timing sprockets on the I4 is total BS. One observation, the crankshaft should remain against the TDC pin the whole procedure of timming, there should be a flywheel lock tool installed to prevent any crankshaft movement IMO.
Crank is keyless, and relies on the pulley pressure to lock. Ford manual says to do this initial alignment with the pulley on, remove the pulley, verify crankshaft is against stop, then install the cover. This process eliminates the problem stated.
What I don't understand is that in this design there is a tensioner on both sides, the leading side (leading from the cams to the crank), and the trailing side (going from the crank to the cams). I have seen tensioners where there is only one on the trailing side. Having one on the leading side too means I am relying that the tensioner is pushing to the max taking up all the slack. If the tensioner is but pushing to the max I could have a slightly different timing.
Hey is the 303-507 the correct timing pin for 2006 2.3l DOHC Duratech? Because I’ve bought a few which are way off on their dimensions. Done some research and I’m seeing it’s a 38.55 mm pin (peg)… Haynes book says 63.4 mm I think they are way off. Let me me know what you think. Thanks
So if the engine is still in the car.......how can I rotate the crankshaft to ensure the crank is still at TDC? The engine Im working on is in a 2015 Ford Fusion. Note: The oassenger axle does not have to be removed to install the timing peg.
Is it a fair statement to say that unless you take off the timing chain, you don't have to worry about bending the valves with the pistons while you go through the timing process with the 3 tools?
Unless the engine has jumped timing, I'd say yes. Even if you do remove the chain, just turning the crank by hand isn't going to bend a valve IMO. (Unless you go full gorilla and force it.) A piston might touch a valve as you're turning by hand but you'll know it right away.
2011 Ranger 2.3L. (220,000km/130,000 miles. Ford recommends changeout at 190,000km) -- Ford quoted me $1500 Canadian$ and six hours labor. My fav mechanic shop will not touch it. -- Have a DIY friend who has some experience with keyless crankshafts; says I can do it. Will be studying your video series. -- Not certain if I need to change sprockets also at that mileage. It will depend on observed wear when I open engine?
The first gen engines in my videos are chain driven so won't apply to belts. No need to change sprockets unless something very unusual happens to damage them.
Thanks. If it hadn't seen it myself, it almost didn't seem worth mentioning. If for no other reason, it at least shows the entire timing process which was something that I have yet to see on YT.
This seems confusing no offense. But in my case someone attempted to change the crank pulley and messed up timing. I just took it all apart took off chain set timing top and bottom used tool kit to hold everything in place. Loosen the cam sprockets put chain and guides on then tensioner, then torque the cam bolts down. Once everything was torque i put gasket maker on the timing cover put that on then i put on the crank pulley with washer made sure the crank hole was at six o’clock position i put the screw through the crank hole and secured it to the timing cover so i could torque the crank bolt down once crank bolt was torque, i removed the screw along with the cam holding tools and the balance shaft stopper nut spun the crank 2 revs and everything lined just fine i at no point needed a pry bar. The first time i did one of these it was a blown head gasket i didn’t have any of the special tools needed but i still made it work with a straight edge file and a long screw for cam stopper.
7:30 I tried to watch the piston position "indicator" as you loosened the bolt, but you were blocking the view. Using a dial indicator and zeroing might help.
Hi Mate was wondering if you could help me out again, basically I build the engine back up and the guys I worked with didn’t realise that that engine has solid tappets basically the valves were lapped but not adjusted clearances would you know what but to measure ect? Thanks.
Sorry, I've never done any work on the valves or cams. Unfortunately, I no longer have my shop manuals either so I don't have any info to offer as far as specs, clearances, etc.
Weve got one that when timed up by the manual, and its reverse flowing, it runs but its exhausting on the inlet and inletting on the exhaust wtf. Came in broken with a broken pin in the exhaust cam so we have no reference to go off
Interesting and excellent quality video with meticulous detail. Thanks. One question however: if you are retiming engine in car without access to rear of crank, how would you verify timing after removing crank bolt??
@@baxrok2. Thanks I do recall there's no inspection port for simpler access ... The way to describe how you used to feel about timing the engine is the way I used to feel about electronic systems. Once you work it out it's not so shrouded in mystery and these days my tools or choice are often a picoscope and and scanner ... thanks for your great videos!
You are such a HUGE BLESSING sir! Exceptional vid and appreciate your step by step guide. Question. I have a Mazda 5 Sport 2007 and the timing chain came of the sitting in my oil pan. Is my engine damaged? Have I bent any valves? I am a DIYer and am getting ready to install new timing chain. Pls advise as to whether or not I should. I have been told to get rid of the car altogther.
To determine if any damage has occurred, you'll have to do a cylinder leak down test. That will tell you if any valves were bent after the chain came off.
@@davidhendrickse2256 No, I don't have a video on performing a cylinder leak down test. However, they are very easy to find on RUclips. You'll need a cylinder leak down tester and an air compressor to perform the test. Alternatively, you could take the car to a shop and have them do the test for you. It's easy enough that any competent shop could do it in an hour. Having said all this, even if the cylinder leak down test shows that no valves are damaged, it's still possible that something else could be wrong as a result of the chain coming off. Just be aware of that.
Please help, I have to replace my oil pump on my Ford Focus. Do you know if the oil pump has to be timed or not. If the answer is yes how do you set time.
I'm not aware of any pump timing. Some older engines I do think needed pump timing. Here's a video where you can watch the guy install a pump and then set the timing on the engine. Hope this helps and good luck! ruclips.net/video/F1RLtSiREok/видео.html
Great video...i am attempting this next weekend with the engine still in the car...i am upgrading the cams on My 2 0 duratec focus. Would you be able to tell me the correct torque settings for the cams head bolts ect? Thankyou
Sorry, but I don't have that info. Lot's of choices though. Start with a google search for it. Then you can search the Focus forums where there will no doubt be that info available. Otherwise, consult the service manual or get a short subscription to a site like AllDataDiy. Good luck!
Sign up at Mazda3Forums. Search for the factory service manual download. You'll be glad that you did! That's where I got mine and I've used it a ton. If for some strange reason you can't find it let me know.
I need help with my 2007 ford 2.3l ,trying to set timing ,motor in car ,valve cover off ,harmonic balancer off . The cams are set TDC with shim.I try to wrench crank the crank with timing cover on and I get interference ,two half cranks either way and the crank stops . I looked up if this was a interference motor and I found not. Before I take apart the motor ,could you give me any insight to what could be obstructing the crank? My timing chain turns fine with cams. I had a problem with the surpentine belt jumping off at cold start .Reason ,weak tensioner . Well the last time it popped I noticed the belt not cranking . The ballancer bolt came loose. So I went to go set the timing after your video and I misplaced the diamond washer on the outside of the pulley instead of the inside. The motor half cranked and the bolt came loose on the harmonic pulley. the motor hardly cranked now I have this obstruction in setting the crank. Anything would help,I bought another vehicle within the last time I wrote.
The 2.3L is an interference engine. It's clearly stated in the Mazda Technical Training document that I show in the very beginning of part three of this series. The only suggestion I have is to try this: remove the cam timing plate, rotate the engine over until all four pistons are at the halfway point in their cylinders, spin the cams around 360 degrees and then put the cam timing plate back in, try to turn the engine over again. If it does not turn then you have to investigate further I'm afraid.
I removed the cams to see if all the valves would pop up ,I heard this was a good way to check for bent valves. I have two out of 16 that popped up, not sure if this was accurate , so I'm taking off the head. I may try to put a bore scope down the plug entry to check first.
I've never had to do this before so I'm not much help. I think pulling the head is the only way to be sure. Looking at the piston tops with the bore scope isn't 100% from what I've heard. Also, I don't think most borescopes allow you to see upwards at the valves, so gotta pull the head. Sorry.
So if I align the 9 tooth without taking anything oof, because it's a chain and not belt between the crankshaft pulley and the cams, then I should be top dead center and be on time?
Chain or belt it does not matter. Aligning the 9th tooth on the crankshaft pulley is only one of the three steps necessary to verify timing. Basically three steps: put crankshaft at TDC, lock camshafts, set crank pulley to 9th tooth on the sensor and lock it down. I show all of the steps in this video and in part 4 of the series.
No, the timing wheel swap was needed if you had a pre 2006 engine. I had a 2004 and put in a 2011 engine, so I had to do the swap. 2006 up should not need the timing wheel swap. To verify though, you can just compare them old to new.
@@raidersnindians I'd check the crank sensor function (output, 5v, ground) and gap/position against timing wheel. Could be a lot of things though. I think it should still start without cam sensor signal, but could be wrong about that since it's been a while. lol Of course, if you've removed the crank pulley or timing chain for any reason ya might want to check the timing.
@@baxrok2. I watched your timing video’s several times. Big thank you. I timed the engine once I dropped it in the car. I was having trouble holding the crankshaft pulley to get the extra 90 degrees. I rigged up a setup and eventually got it torqued. After that I reinserted the 3 timing tools, cam shaft bar, crankshaft stop and the 6mm bolt in the crankshaft pulley. Crankshaft tooth was right on the sensor. I have not checked the voltage though, so will give that a try tomorrow. Appreciate your assistance!
The service manual does not have any information for the parts inside the VVT gear. Here is a video that might help you: ruclips.net/video/O3GfxForZE4/видео.html
Forgive my ignorance here.... But how does the crankshaft rotate after you lock the camshafts down with the timing plate? This is my first time working on this engine but in my other experience the crankshaft is locked into position with the cams using the timing chain.
Ryan Smith The crankshaft is not keyed to the chain sprocket. Until you put the crank pulley on and lock it down the crank is free to spin. See my Part 3 video. First 14 minutes shows it.
I'm using the prybar on the back of the crankshaft because the engine is out of the car. I have two bolts in it and that's what I lock the prybar into to turn the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car you turn the flywheel with a strong screwdriver or small prybar through the starter opening.
The thing this man isnt seeing us in order to install the crankshaft pulley bolt to torque specifications or to loosen the crankshaft bolt you must install the timing alignment bolt into the hole in the pulley and screw it unto the timing cover. This will keep the crankshaft alignment true whether you loosen or tighten pulley bolt to factory specification. You don't have to do all the running back and forth trying to verify.
thank you!! i have a code for p0335 and i have the replacement part. all i really have to do is replace the sensor exactly where its sitting with out doing those alignments right?
Correct, you don't have to do the timing adjustments to replace the sensor. Prior to taking the sensor out, mark it somehow around the bolt heads for reference because you want the new one to go back in the same position. Clear the current engine codes. If the sensor isn't bad then you have to do your diagnostics to figure out if the appropriate signal/power/ground is available at the sensor etc. Do a good visual inspection on the wires and connector while you're down there. Mazda's are kind of funny, so if the sensor doesn't fix it, and the wiring/signal/power/grounds are good, then you may have to check the timing to verify that it is correct. Good luck!
@@baxrok2. thanks i did all that and the engine light is gone. drove it aroumd for awhile to see how it ran and so far so good. i have a odb2 reader and an app that picks up real time on the car behaviour too 😁
I do not understand why they did not key the gears to all 3 shafts, it seems crazy to me that they rely on diamond coated friction washers to keep things in place.
Mainly the bolts since a lot of Mazdas never came with friction washers in the first place. It’s a good idea to replace camshaft and crankshaft bolts whenever taking it apart. If you look at the parts diagrams off partsouq, you can see where to put the friction washers if they are recommended and never came with your engine.
If the chain is stretched it might allow the timing to jump. If it jumps, I'd think it would still idle but very poorly. When it comes to codes, I would expect a code to be thrown, but Mazda's aren't very reliable with codes when it comes to timing in my experience.
@@baxrok2. Good to know. Was given some information that it could be a vacuum leak ...Shevis, a Mazda owner and manager of an auto parts store, said a few mechanic friends in the area informed him of the plastic intake developing cracks. Going to check these theories out. I appreciate the reply
Important question!!! When taking the pulley and bolt out is there enough clearance to actually get it out without taking the entire wheel well apart or taking the engine out. I have all the parts I'm about ready to start the job and I just realized after loosening the pulley bolt is there enough room to actually pull it out?
I'm about 5 hours in right now, did the entire thing right as far as I can tell and it's it's starting. The car ran before I replaced the crank pulley. It's It's 2.3 turbo. The sensor is to the 20th tooth I used the timing pegs and everything, redid it twice now still no start. It cranks
@@outfishing3909 Even if the timing is out it should start I think. My timing was way off and the damn thing still started and ran. Ran like total shit, but ran. Double check the crank sensor wiring and position. Car won't start without crank signal. It controls spark and fuel.
Be aware at 12:12 when you put a wrench on the cam and turn there is a possibility of the bolt holding the gear to the shaft will come loose ,like I had happen. Then you have to realign your cams and tighten the bolt.
Oh that, yeah I knew about that. I just didn't think about it happening when you moved the camshafts, especially if the crank pulley is off and the plugs are out. Not much resistance, but I guess it could still happen. Thanks!
I cant turn the crank all the way around with the pulley off and the plugs out .Its almost like its hitting the timing bolt ,but I don't have the timing bolt in. I did push it in neutral with the pulley loose. Well I set the timing in order. Everything turned good ,but I put the diamond washer on the outside of the pulley like an idiot ,and the bolt spun loose first crank. Now I have it apart again and like I SAID , the crank won't turn all the way around. any Idea why?
Well, if you don't have the camshafts in the timing position they will be in the way of the pistons! Put a rod or tool into one of the cylinders. Put the piston(s) at halfway in the cylinder. If turning backwards use care. Then, put the camshafts in the timing position. You can do this by roughly aligning the slots in the camshafts with the cylinder head edge or better yet, put the camshaft timing tool in place. Then, you should be able to rotate the engine.
Yes, it certainly can. I did it in the car too. Look for my engine swap video named Timing Fix. In that video I am actually teaching myself how to do the timing with the engine in the car. The procedure is generally the same in or out of the car. In the car you have to remove the motor mount and stuff like that but the timing steps are the same. Cam plate, TDC, pulley. Turn engine over. Verify. Tighten!
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Absolute life saver. 2.3 to 2.5 swap left me scratching my head at how disgusting the car was running, fixed the problem in 30mins after watching this. started right up strait after, purrs like a kitten and sprints like and athlete!
This is pure GOLD...I did a 2.0 to 2.5 swap, and found your videos...Now I know that I did not time it properly. I'm very confident this will solve my issues.
That was very interesting, who knew that there could be a fail in the procedure recommended. Thanks for walking me through the verification process. Very nice!
The series of videos you've made for timing this engine is by FAR the best resource I've found, thank you very much for putting these out. One helpful tip for those who have not pulled the engine entirely and do not have the ability to rotate the crankshaft from the back of the engine: You can cut a 1/4" thick piece of rubber sheet, then wrap it around the front of the crankshaft and secure it with a worm drive style hose clamp to make a very secure strap wrench, that assembly can then be rotated pretty easily by hand or with some channel locks without the risk of damage to the shaft.
Great tip!
I agree with other comments. Thoroughly explained most important video on ranger 2.5 ltr. Timing. Thank you Sir.
Thanks for being very thorough. One thing I do want to bring up, is this: We don't always remove the engine from the car. So turning the crank to bring back to top dead center would probably have to be done by turning the flywheel. Remove the starter and access it from there. With a large prytool it can be done and may take a few tries, it will get done. Appreciate you taking the time. Carlos
Mazda, and Honda both had keyless cranks on their 4 cylinder engines. But, Honda has an additional shaft called a "balancer shaft" that the timing pin contacts. The balancer shaft was used to minimize vibration at higher engine rpm's. Very easy, and instructional video sir!
You’re video was very informative thank you. I found that you can use the harmonic balance bolt to set the timing as long as you remove it using an impact driver. I tested it three times and my timing remained. Saves you from having to drop the starter.
One of the best youtube videos I've ever seen. You are a born educator. Thank you very much for doing this
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I want to thank you for this 4 part series. My 2016 Ford Fusion with the 2.5 jumped time and died at a stop sign. Thanks to this video series I completely understood what I was doing when I replaced the components using the All Data DIY manual. As it turns out, it jumped time because it was missing a friction washer between the crankshaft and the sprocket. With the M6 bolt in the pulley hole the cams lined up but the engine was still another 10-15 degrees from hitting the TDC peg. I’m surprised that the engine didn’t blow up. One tip I have is to definitely use the flats on the camshaft that look like a bolt to keep it from rotating while torquing the gears down.
You are saint. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Thank you for filming. It was a pleasure watching. You really helped me. Thank you so much
you can use the impact gun to back off the crank pulley bolt and i bet the crank wont move. as you remove that bolt you can just keep an eye on your little tdc home made stick thing in the spark plug hole. By the way, that tdc stick is a great idea. Had you watched your tdc stick as you removed the crank pulley bolt you would have seen the crankshaft had moved because the stick would have went down a wee bit.
Great video, it helped me to understand the problem I have with my cx7 that my mechanic has been battling with out results
Really appreciate the tips and the concise explanation. I will be doing this job now. After timing it, I will remove the crank bolt with an impact, rather than by hand, and I believe this will allow me to remove the bolt without moving the crank out of place. Will report back on if that works. Cheers
I agree that an impact is better than by hand.
Great video! Thanks! Thought I did the alignment perfectly after a valve job/timing chain replacement but it was running rough with P0015, P0016 camshaft/crankshaft misalignment engine codes. This video saved the day. A couple of notes that might help some folks: 1) The pulley on my 2006 Mazda 2.0 LF lined up on the fifth tooth not the ninth when I installed the M6 bolt. 2) I got a TDC alignment bolt online that is thinner than yours and can be installed without removing the driveaxle.
Where did you buy from and what model is it?
@@MrXanitos Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YVLA0DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey Baxrok ,I cant thank you enough .Using your video I was able to fix my timing after being messed up by two previous Mechanics.God bless you .
Good job! That's why I made these videos, so people could fix their cars properly.
This was beautifully and expertly explained, you’re no diyer lol you’re a pro
you are the best teacher with details we all need, thanks
if the vehicle is manual you can utilize the drive train to rotate the crank back up against the peg after you remove the bolt, also you can load up the drive train to loosen the crankshaft bolt by selecting a gear and and locking 1 axle in a stationary position and rotating the other hub/axle, if the trans-axle/gearbox utilizes an LSD differential and the breakaway is not to light then you wont need to lock one of the axles, the torque is applied opposite so 5th gear will have the most torque but 4th gear should suffice.
With spark plugs out, and engine out, you can turn crank with the flex plate by hand easily. Just leave the bolt out until ready to torque balancer
Great video! Thank you for sharing. This confirms what I suspected went wrong on a vehicle from another shop.
ALso dont forget to take out the timing peg before u put everything back together and try and start it or can break your block!
Underrated comment. So true!
Thank you for this video had to do an oil pan and front main seal on a 07 Miata 2.0 and pulled off the harmonic balancer without knowing it was a keyless balancer.
I would have never thought of that taking the crank boat out after you timed it it would take it out of time I have a 2012 Ford focus
I hate too say it but i hope you have more car problems so you make more videos
Its not just the crank bolt that did it, it would be better if keyed; when you go to back off the bolt you also reverse the tension in the Chain and compress the tensioner just enough that the crank walks back and then when you install the pulley its off by that amount.
I'm hoping to do some work on my nc 2.0 so I'm trying to get tips & educate myself, you video was very clear & very useful.
Many thanks Aaron
Is it possible to follow your steps & be 180° off at the end? All of my timing lines up, but no start. If I started at TDC in the exhaust stroke & not compression... The lobes over #1 are pointing inward... Thanks
After i line up the crankshaft on the Peg and remove the bolt, i put on the timing cover and then when i put on the crankshaft pully i set the mark in the 3pm position and slightly tighten the crankshaft bolt then turn the crankshaft with a little force which moves the crankshaft and your hear it hit the peg if it had moved and continue turn the crankshaft gear which should have a little resistance until it lines up with the mark on the cover :)
Hanging out at the live stream last night was fun. I hope we can find a way to get together for a meet up (if Eric the car guy doesn't do it). You had some great visuals on this one which will make it easy to understand for anyone who is going to tackle this. Nice job.
Thanks Dave! Yeah, that was fun. Looking forward to whatever meetup comes around. Is it true that Eric O. already had one of his own?
Baxrok2 I'll send you an email.
What about the balancer shaft assembly ? How do you time the balancer shaft assembly to the crankshaft in the vehicle? Can miss timing the assembly result in catastrophic failure? We put rods and mains in a 05 escape hybrid with no thoughts to marking the balencer and the crank!
I don't know. I never removed the crank or balancer for my swap. Go to Mazda3Forums.com for some help.
Love the video series, thanks for making these, it's really giving me insight for my swap. Cheers!
muchas gracias por compartir su experiencia con nosotros los que comemos en trabajo de la mecánica gracias muy buen video
If the transmission is manual do you agree to avoid the shaft going back to engage the transmition on first or any speed?
Hi ur videos have been so educative keep on sir.am from cameroon,pls any video on how to do tuning on ford escape hybrid 2.3 engine without removing from the car?
I'm Planning to do this on my Ford Ranger 2.3L engine. But, I hadn't intended to take it out of the vehicle. Can I rotate it from the back with the engine still in the vehicle?
This is a wonderful series. Thanks for putting it together. Would you happen to have the measurements for the thin portion of the camshaft positioning tool? I am trying to fabricate one but I can't find the dimensions anywhere. Thanks.
This video is gold. I have a 2010 Mazda CX-9 and I am trying to figure out how I can verify that the engine is timed before I remove the chain
If it was running before you removed it
Hi sir I was so happy watching ur video so interesting, I got a ford escape engine that needs a valve timing but the engine is in the car can u help me with a video on how to do the timing without removing the engine from the car?thanks
Very smart man. Good video
You can use the Engine TDC pin with the engine in chassis you slide the boot off the axle end opposite the wheel end I just warmed it up with an old hair drier I keep in the shop same when I reinstalled it . You slide the boot off and you have plenty of access to install and remove the TDC timing pin it can be done in a matter of minutes.
Great info sir. Thanks!
i knew right when u popped off that crank and said, well its timed lol, i use a vicegrip and towel so i dont mar the crank to move the crank back just to make sure its hitting the peg before continuing, cuz again with the vicegrip u dont need to remove a bolt which invariable ends up moving the crank off the pin
Excellent video. Thank you for posting and sharing
Boy, I'm glad I choose the v6 on my Ford Escape, the lack of keyway or alignment pins on all the timing sprockets on the I4 is total BS.
One observation, the crankshaft should remain against the TDC pin the whole procedure of timming, there should be a flywheel lock tool installed to prevent any crankshaft movement IMO.
A significant number of Ford v6 4.0 are keyless.
Hang on... if you locked your cams from rotating how are you turning the crank?
Crank is keyless, and relies on the pulley pressure to lock. Ford manual says to do this initial alignment with the pulley on, remove the pulley, verify crankshaft is against stop, then install the cover. This process eliminates the problem stated.
Thank you for the great video! Wish I found it before I changed a bunch of parts! My mechanic swore he had it timed.
I get it. That's what a mechanic told me too!
Thanks for the video. I was very helpful for me!
What I don't understand is that in this design there is a tensioner on both sides, the leading side (leading from the cams to the crank), and the trailing side (going from the crank to the cams). I have seen tensioners where there is only one on the trailing side. Having one on the leading side too means I am relying that the tensioner is pushing to the max taking up all the slack. If the tensioner is but pushing to the max I could have a slightly different timing.
There is a guide on both sides, only one tensioner.
Hey is the 303-507 the correct timing pin for 2006 2.3l DOHC Duratech? Because I’ve bought a few which are way off on their dimensions. Done some research and I’m seeing it’s a 38.55 mm pin (peg)… Haynes book says 63.4 mm I think they are way off. Let me me know what you think. Thanks
That looks like the right one. Says it's for the 2.3.
6 years on, and your video has helped me immensely, thanks!
I got a ford escape 2008 hybrid since I change the valve I have been having issues with the timing
So if the engine is still in the car.......how can I rotate the crankshaft to ensure the crank is still at TDC? The engine Im working on is in a 2015 Ford Fusion. Note: The oassenger axle does not have to be removed to install the timing peg.
Remove the starter and turn the flywheel to rotate the crankshaft.
Is it a fair statement to say that unless you take off the timing chain, you don't have to worry about bending the valves with the pistons while you go through the timing process with the 3 tools?
Unless the engine has jumped timing, I'd say yes. Even if you do remove the chain, just turning the crank by hand isn't going to bend a valve IMO. (Unless you go full gorilla and force it.) A piston might touch a valve as you're turning by hand but you'll know it right away.
2011 Ranger 2.3L. (220,000km/130,000 miles. Ford recommends changeout at 190,000km) -- Ford quoted me $1500 Canadian$ and six hours labor. My fav mechanic shop will not touch it.
-- Have a DIY friend who has some experience with keyless crankshafts; says I can do it. Will be studying your video series.
-- Not certain if I need to change sprockets also at that mileage. It will depend on observed wear when I open engine?
The first gen engines in my videos are chain driven so won't apply to belts. No need to change sprockets unless something very unusual happens to damage them.
Great video... well explained with what could go wrong!
Thanks. If it hadn't seen it myself, it almost didn't seem worth mentioning. If for no other reason, it at least shows the entire timing process which was something that I have yet to see on YT.
Where is cam shaft timing plate? Is auto store going to look crazy when I ask for one?
Some auto stores may have tools you can borrow, otherwise you have to order online.
Thank you! I’m about to do this project.
This seems confusing no offense. But in my case someone attempted to change the crank pulley and messed up timing. I just took it all apart took off chain set timing top and bottom used tool kit to hold everything in place. Loosen the cam sprockets put chain and guides on then tensioner, then torque the cam bolts down. Once everything was torque i put gasket maker on the timing cover put that on then i put on the crank pulley with washer made sure the crank hole was at six o’clock position i put the screw through the crank hole and secured it to the timing cover so i could torque the crank bolt down once crank bolt was torque, i removed the screw along with the cam holding tools and the balance shaft stopper nut spun the crank 2 revs and everything lined just fine i at no point needed a pry bar. The first time i did one of these it was a blown head gasket i didn’t have any of the special tools needed but i still made it work with a straight edge file and a long screw for cam stopper.
No offense taken Mark. My style of 'too much information' isn't for everyone. I just did what I thought would help people the most. Thanks!
Baxrok2 makes it sound harder than what it really is thats all.
Great series as an advisor wish the techs would read the procedures before assuming they know what they are doing.
What did you do to reset the misfire correction profile without the scan tool?
My 6 mm bolt tightens in but there is a yellow arrow at 10 o'clock on the pulley that baffles me because it is not inline with the sensor.
7:30 I tried to watch the piston position "indicator" as you loosened the bolt, but you were blocking the view. Using a dial indicator and zeroing might help.
9:40 You did it again😂
I followed ur part three video and it starts for about a minute and went off again,my engine is not removed fro. The car so that's why I need a video
Very informative and professional. Thank you
Thanks!
Thank you Sir and you look like Robert De Niro.
Hi Mate was wondering if you could help me out again, basically I build the engine back up and the guys I worked with didn’t realise that that engine has solid tappets basically the valves were lapped but not adjusted clearances would you know what but to measure ect?
Thanks.
Sorry, I've never done any work on the valves or cams. Unfortunately, I no longer have my shop manuals either so I don't have any info to offer as far as specs, clearances, etc.
Weve got one that when timed up by the manual, and its reverse flowing, it runs but its exhausting on the inlet and inletting on the exhaust wtf. Came in broken with a broken pin in the exhaust cam so we have no reference to go off
Interesting and excellent quality video with meticulous detail. Thanks. One question however: if you are retiming engine in car without access to rear of crank, how would you verify timing after removing crank bolt??
You remove the starter and turn the flywheel through the opening.
@@baxrok2. Thanks I do recall there's no inspection port for simpler access ... The way to describe how you used to feel about timing the engine is the way I used to feel about electronic systems. Once you work it out it's not so shrouded in mystery and these days my tools or choice are often a picoscope and and scanner ... thanks for your great videos!
Thanks for your effort .I came from Taiwan .
You are such a HUGE BLESSING sir! Exceptional vid and appreciate your step by step guide. Question. I have a Mazda 5 Sport 2007 and the timing chain came of the sitting in my oil pan. Is my engine damaged? Have I bent any valves? I am a DIYer and am getting ready to install new timing chain. Pls advise as to whether or not I should. I have been told to get rid of the car altogther.
To determine if any damage has occurred, you'll have to do a cylinder leak down test. That will tell you if any valves were bent after the chain came off.
@@baxrok2. Thanks for such a swift response. Do you have a vid on how to do a cylinder leak down test??
@@davidhendrickse2256 No, I don't have a video on performing a cylinder leak down test. However, they are very easy to find on RUclips. You'll need a cylinder leak down tester and an air compressor to perform the test. Alternatively, you could take the car to a shop and have them do the test for you. It's easy enough that any competent shop could do it in an hour. Having said all this, even if the cylinder leak down test shows that no valves are damaged, it's still possible that something else could be wrong as a result of the chain coming off. Just be aware of that.
@@baxrok2. thanks so much. appreciate your advice.
Please help, I have to replace my oil pump on my Ford Focus. Do you know if the oil pump has to be timed or not. If the answer is yes how do you set time.
I'm not aware of any pump timing. Some older engines I do think needed pump timing. Here's a video where you can watch the guy install a pump and then set the timing on the engine. Hope this helps and good luck! ruclips.net/video/F1RLtSiREok/видео.html
grate job, You saved me a lot of time!
Did you time the cams first or the crankshaft?
do u know how much torque value for bearing conrod engine Lf-mzr I4 2000cc, mazda 6 gg 2.0 2005
No, I don't have the service manuals anymore.
sure wud be nice to have an extra hand to hold that crank in place at the flywheel
Great video...i am attempting this next weekend with the engine still in the car...i am upgrading the cams on My 2 0 duratec focus. Would you be able to tell me the correct torque settings for the cams head bolts ect? Thankyou
Sorry, but I don't have that info. Lot's of choices though. Start with a google search for it. Then you can search the Focus forums where there will no doubt be that info available. Otherwise, consult the service manual or get a short subscription to a site like AllDataDiy. Good luck!
Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual?
Unfortunately I do not.
Sign up at Mazda3Forums. Search for the factory service manual download. You'll be glad that you did! That's where I got mine and I've used it a ton. If for some strange reason you can't find it let me know.
Use a regular ratchet and make a click sound when it feels about right. That's how the pros do it.
I need help with my 2007 ford 2.3l ,trying to set timing ,motor in car ,valve cover off ,harmonic balancer off . The cams are set TDC with shim.I try to wrench crank the crank with timing cover on and I get interference ,two half cranks either way and the crank stops . I looked up if this was a interference motor and I found not. Before I take apart the motor ,could you give me any insight to what could be obstructing the crank? My timing chain turns fine with cams. I had a problem with the surpentine belt jumping off at cold start .Reason ,weak tensioner . Well the last time it popped I noticed the belt not cranking . The ballancer bolt came loose. So I went to go set the timing after your video and I misplaced the diamond washer on the outside of the pulley instead of the inside. The motor half cranked and the bolt came loose on the harmonic pulley. the motor hardly cranked now I have this obstruction in setting the crank. Anything would help,I bought another vehicle within the last time I wrote.
The 2.3L is an interference engine. It's clearly stated in the Mazda Technical Training document that I show in the very beginning of part three of this series. The only suggestion I have is to try this: remove the cam timing plate, rotate the engine over until all four pistons are at the halfway point in their cylinders, spin the cams around 360 degrees and then put the cam timing plate back in, try to turn the engine over again. If it does not turn then you have to investigate further I'm afraid.
I removed the cams to see if all the valves would pop up ,I heard this was a good way to check for bent valves. I have two out of 16 that popped up, not sure if this was accurate , so I'm taking off the head. I may try to put a bore scope down the plug entry to check first.
I've never had to do this before so I'm not much help. I think pulling the head is the only way to be sure. Looking at the piston tops with the bore scope isn't 100% from what I've heard. Also, I don't think most borescopes allow you to see upwards at the valves, so gotta pull the head. Sorry.
So if I align the 9 tooth without taking anything oof, because it's a chain and not belt between the crankshaft pulley and the cams, then I should be top dead center and be on time?
Chain or belt it does not matter. Aligning the 9th tooth on the crankshaft pulley is only one of the three steps necessary to verify timing. Basically three steps: put crankshaft at TDC, lock camshafts, set crank pulley to 9th tooth on the sensor and lock it down. I show all of the steps in this video and in part 4 of the series.
@@baxrok2. It is a very complete series, thank you for uploading this.
You are the Man!
Rather than moving it with the back of the crankshaft (when the motor is still in the car) just use the camshafts.
How exactly would you do that please answer this if you get a notification about this god bless youu
There are flats built into one cam shaft to put a wrench on.
Hi. I have done this swap on my 2007 Mazda 3. I did NOT change the intake camshaft timing wheel. Maybe why my car won’t start!?
No, the timing wheel swap was needed if you had a pre 2006 engine. I had a 2004 and put in a 2011 engine, so I had to do the swap. 2006 up should not need the timing wheel swap. To verify though, you can just compare them old to new.
Thx for the quick reply. I have no spark, no fuel and it pops no codes.
@@raidersnindians I'd check the crank sensor function (output, 5v, ground) and gap/position against timing wheel. Could be a lot of things though. I think it should still start without cam sensor signal, but could be wrong about that since it's been a while. lol Of course, if you've removed the crank pulley or timing chain for any reason ya might want to check the timing.
@@baxrok2. I watched your timing video’s several times. Big thank you. I timed the engine once I dropped it in the car. I was having trouble holding the crankshaft pulley to get the extra 90 degrees. I rigged up a setup and eventually got it torqued. After that I reinserted the 3 timing tools, cam shaft bar, crankshaft stop and the 6mm bolt in the crankshaft pulley. Crankshaft tooth was right on the sensor. I have not checked the voltage though, so will give that a try tomorrow. Appreciate your assistance!
@@raidersnindians There is a spec for the gap, but I don't recall what it is.
Sir
Can you explain the position of the vvt camshaft cz I opened that and no marking for that.. can you explain please
The service manual does not have any information for the parts inside the VVT gear. Here is a video that might help you: ruclips.net/video/O3GfxForZE4/видео.html
Mate. Terrific tutorial
Thanks this video saved my butt.
Forgive my ignorance here.... But how does the crankshaft rotate after you lock the camshafts down with the timing plate? This is my first time working on this engine but in my other experience the crankshaft is locked into position with the cams using the timing chain.
Ryan Smith The crankshaft is not keyed to the chain sprocket. Until you put the crank pulley on and lock it down the crank is free to spin. See my Part 3 video. First 14 minutes shows it.
I get it now. Friction fit. Thanks for the help.
Where did you put the pry bar ? Anyone know or can anyone show me please ?
I'm using the prybar on the back of the crankshaft because the engine is out of the car. I have two bolts in it and that's what I lock the prybar into to turn the crankshaft. If the engine is in the car you turn the flywheel with a strong screwdriver or small prybar through the starter opening.
These videos apply to the I4 turbo eco boost like the focus St correct??
No. First gen Mazda 3 and 6 only. I dont know anything about the engines you mentioned.
I hello my engine is still together can this be done with the top end together? your awesome man I found you videos very informative.
Yes it can. I have another video called 2005 Mazda 3 - 2.3L to 2.5L Engine Swap. Timing Fix! where I do it in the car. Good luck!
The thing this man isnt seeing us in order to install the crankshaft pulley bolt to torque specifications or to loosen the crankshaft bolt you must install the timing alignment bolt into the hole in the pulley and screw it unto the timing cover. This will keep the crankshaft alignment true whether you loosen or tighten pulley bolt to factory specification. You don't have to do all the running back and forth trying to verify.
Keyless crankshaft.
thank you!! i have a code for p0335 and i have the replacement part. all i really have to do is replace the sensor exactly where its sitting with out doing those alignments right?
Correct, you don't have to do the timing adjustments to replace the sensor. Prior to taking the sensor out, mark it somehow around the bolt heads for reference because you want the new one to go back in the same position. Clear the current engine codes. If the sensor isn't bad then you have to do your diagnostics to figure out if the appropriate signal/power/ground is available at the sensor etc. Do a good visual inspection on the wires and connector while you're down there. Mazda's are kind of funny, so if the sensor doesn't fix it, and the wiring/signal/power/grounds are good, then you may have to check the timing to verify that it is correct. Good luck!
@@baxrok2. thanks i did all that and the engine light is gone. drove it aroumd for awhile to see how it ran and so far so good. i have a odb2 reader and an app that picks up real time on the car behaviour too 😁
@@I_Am_SoSo Well done. Congrats!
@@baxrok2. thanks
super helpful, thanks
Nice video, it helped me a lot, thanks!
I do not understand why they did not key the gears to all 3 shafts, it seems crazy to me that they rely on diamond coated friction washers to keep things in place.
Mainly the bolts since a lot of Mazdas never came with friction washers in the first place. It’s a good idea to replace camshaft and crankshaft bolts whenever taking it apart. If you look at the parts diagrams off partsouq, you can see where to put the friction washers if they are recommended and never came with your engine.
Hi, can that procedure applicable to Ford Escape 2003 2.0 engine?
No, that engine is different. There are other videos on youtube for that engine.
Hi i have cx7 with 2.3 l turbo , is this engine a interference or non interferenece
Interference.
So bad "timing chain", does it throw any codes? Have a Mazda 6 project car with a 2.3....no idle...no codes thrown...156k miles
If the chain is stretched it might allow the timing to jump. If it jumps, I'd think it would still idle but very poorly. When it comes to codes, I would expect a code to be thrown, but Mazda's aren't very reliable with codes when it comes to timing in my experience.
@@baxrok2.
Good to know. Was given some information that it could be a vacuum leak ...Shevis, a Mazda owner and manager of an auto parts store, said a few mechanic friends in the area informed him of the plastic intake developing cracks. Going to check these theories out. I appreciate the reply
Best make sure that gear bolt is tight before turning the cam with a wrench.
Important question!!! When taking the pulley and bolt out is there enough clearance to actually get it out without taking the entire wheel well apart or taking the engine out. I have all the parts I'm about ready to start the job and I just realized after loosening the pulley bolt is there enough room to actually pull it out?
It's been a few years now but if I recall correctly you will have to drop the engine down a bit to clear the frame.
Oh man I don't like that answer lmao but thank you for such a fast reply!
@@outfishing3909 Compared to the timing job overall, loosening up a motor mount will be a minor matter! lol Good luck!
I'm about 5 hours in right now, did the entire thing right as far as I can tell and it's it's starting. The car ran before I replaced the crank pulley. It's It's 2.3 turbo. The sensor is to the 20th tooth I used the timing pegs and everything, redid it twice now still no start. It cranks
@@outfishing3909 Even if the timing is out it should start I think. My timing was way off and the damn thing still started and ran. Ran like total shit, but ran. Double check the crank sensor wiring and position. Car won't start without crank signal. It controls spark and fuel.
Good job on the timing
Be aware at 12:12 when you put a wrench on the cam and turn there is a possibility of the bolt holding the gear to the shaft will come loose ,like I had happen. Then you have to realign your cams and tighten the bolt.
Interesting. I never thought about that or heard anyone else mention it. Thanks so much for sharing that with us!
#456 Mazda 2.3L cam timing chain sync problem p0340
Oh that, yeah I knew about that. I just didn't think about it happening when you moved the camshafts, especially if the crank pulley is off and the plugs are out. Not much resistance, but I guess it could still happen. Thanks!
I cant turn the crank all the way around with the pulley off and the plugs out .Its almost like its hitting the timing bolt ,but I don't have the timing bolt in. I did push it in neutral with the pulley loose. Well I set the timing in order. Everything turned good ,but I put the diamond washer on the outside of the pulley like an idiot ,and the bolt spun loose first crank. Now I have it apart again and like I SAID , the crank won't turn all the way around. any Idea why?
Well, if you don't have the camshafts in the timing position they will be in the way of the pistons! Put a rod or tool into one of the cylinders. Put the piston(s) at halfway in the cylinder. If turning backwards use care. Then, put the camshafts in the timing position. You can do this by roughly aligning the slots in the camshafts with the cylinder head edge or better yet, put the camshaft timing tool in place. Then, you should be able to rotate the engine.
Can this procedure be done with the engine in the car? I don't have the equipment to take mine out.
Yes, it certainly can. I did it in the car too. Look for my engine swap video named Timing Fix. In that video I am actually teaching myself how to do the timing with the engine in the car. The procedure is generally the same in or out of the car. In the car you have to remove the motor mount and stuff like that but the timing steps are the same. Cam plate, TDC, pulley. Turn engine over. Verify. Tighten!