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That's a good price. Your correct on not using the lite weight for the T6.4. However, you will find it to be almost a torquey, if not more, as most of the motors out there.

@wutupclegg6618 interesting. I definitely want the stock spec for my t6.4 but maybe it's a better motor than the whitz racing. It has the hypersonic whitz racing 13.5 motor currently. I haven't tested the whitz to know what the specs are nor have a seen any videos on the motor. I bought the car off another you tuber that's local to me, Razor RC, and he sold it to me with all the electronics in it for 400. A steal lol. But I think he has a partnership with whitz so he runs some of their stuff.

@wutupclegg6618 I ordered a lightweight 13.5 lol I couldn't pass up the deal and it's Amazon so returns are easy. I'm curious to see it up against the Whitz Hyperspec Competition Motor that sells for $100. Do you have any experience with the Whitz brand?

Thank you! I really appreciate it!

I've heard that. I am really curious about the Slot Machine 2.

I might do one. I have seen quite a few videos out there that talk about it, but they might not be detailed enough. I'll put that on my list. I just have to get my new workspace up and going.

@wutupclegg6618 awesome thank you. Im sure it's fairly simple I'm jjsy intimidated to take the motor apart lol.

Very cool! Let me know how it turns out for you. Thank you for the complement. I really appreciate it.

@wutupclegg6618 I will report back. I also ordered a sky rc motor analyzer to help me dial it in better. I'm anxious to see the difference between the V6 and the team powers v5. At my local track they basically bully you into a team powers motor lol. The track is the north American distributor for team powers so all the employees walk you right over to them if you ask which motor to go with lol

It's pretty crazy how inexpensive the V6 motors are. I heard, from many people, that they are the motor to beat. The G4R is also a good motor, but I would prefer the V6 for off-road carpet. The V6 has a bit more torque.

@wutupclegg6618 yea its kinda crazy they are about $90 shipped. That's at least $20 cheaper than the next decent motor and if it outperforms them that's even better lol. I love finding hidden gems. Sometimes the price of stuff deters us since we associate high price with better quality. So naturally we gravitate towards the more expensive motor assuming it's automatically better. Thank you for your guidance and help

Which rotor did the motor come with? 1760 is pretty good. not too many rotors go that high.

@@wutupclegg6618 the stock rotor it came with was right at 1700.

@@dogsubx2 That's pretty low. I bet it had a pretty high RPM though.

@@wutupclegg6618 yes. it was 4200kv at 5.0a.

@@dogsubx2 that's pretty fast! How was the torque?

Very cool! LOL... The Stock Spec one would work better. The light weight one would be a good on road motor.

@wutupclegg6618 haha ok thank you so much. Amazon only has the lightweight one so I will go to ebay or somewhere else for the stock spec. It looks like this surpass motor tests better than fantom, trinity and the G4r. I almost pulled the trigger so many times on the Hw G4R

Thank you. I would lean towards the Surpass V6 Stock Spec. Lots of torque to pull out of the corners and still have a good top speed.

@wutupclegg6618 awesome thank you for the reply and suggestion. I wasn't looking at those but now I will. I had narrowed it down to fantom or hw but I will look at the surpass. They change the track every 6 weeks but it's a mix of tight turns, long jumps coming out of turns so important to get up to speed quick, and 1 long back straight. I appreciate your suggestion

@wutupclegg6618 oh I'm running a B6.4 and will eventually move it all into my B7 once it's built if that helps too. Thank you

Are you talking about having different load motors?

@@wutupclegg6618 That would work, so would using different resistor values for the load. If I am correct I see 1RJ on those resistors, that is 1 ohm, a set of 2 ohm resistors would be less of a load.

I appreciate the compliment.

@@patissanchez Yes Sir. You are correct on all ends. When I purchased the Load Master, from WMH Racing, it included the 1RJ and 2RJ. I like the 1RJ because it causes the motors to work harder and give a better idea of how they would perform while racing. It also gives a good idea on how much torque a motor has. I had at least on motor that struggled with this load. It was a very high RPM motor, but this resistor showed it didn't have much torque.

@@wutupclegg6618 I wonder if you can find some 0.5RJ resistors. I first saw the load master a week ago and thought it was a bit over priced, at least it comes with another set of resistors.

Yes, they would be spinning your wheels at the same speed. Checking there temps would determine which one is working the hardest. The one working the least means it can go up higher on the pinion.

I really appreciate you sharing my vids. I can use all the help I can get.

As soon as I get my new office set up, I'll start the testing.

@wutupclegg6618 sweet. I tried my new Surpass V6 lite weight for the first time today. It's fast, I had a Reedy and I would say the Surpass is a little faster. The reedy was quick as well though. I'm running a team associated 2wd, And I had been running a 72 tooth spur with a 28 tooth pinion, I tried a 31/72 with the Surpass and it seemed like it had plenty of power to handle it but It was running pretty hot. So I switched back to the 28/72 and it stays cool with that.

I have not tested the 21.5 motors. However, the highest RPM motor I have tested is the Fantom Helix RS. The problem is, it didn't have much torque, so essentially, the would not be the best for tight offroad tracks.

@wutupclegg6618 Thanks, I'm new, but some local people I've seen with Reds seem to be fast.

I hear it's a good motor. I haven't had the pleasure of being able to test it yet. Hopefully, soon.

They are pretty comparable. The V6 Lite Weight showed to have more torque, but the HW V10 G4R has a little more RPMs. Long and fast tracks, I would go with the V10. for short and technical tracks, I would go with the V6.

I love hearing about people fixing their own machines. Thank you.

That is quite the sad truth. As I work on more and more machinery, I clearly see how they are all designed to fail. It is a shame.

I would love to get my hands on one.

You are very welcome. I'm glad you liked it.

@@wutupclegg6618 yessir, what main jet do you run. My 2001 cr125 came jetted so bad it barely ran I have it in pieces but thinking of buying like 350-390 mains and a 40 a 45 and a 50… any suggestions to not waste money on jets? Also under the assumption it has a red needle from jd kit and I haven’t found a oem one yet or a 2171 that old riders said they used trying to get the bike close to stock and work from there

ROAR and spec are pretty much the same. Most people will refer to a spec motor when that company makes certified motors. Spec just means that it meets stock racing specifications. ROAR legal means it meets ROAR specifications. Again, every ROAR legal stock motor is a "stock spec" motor. What type of racing and track are you running o ?

@@wutupclegg6618 indoor carpet off road. My local track is Norcal Hobbies here in the bay area. Thank you for the response

@wutupclegg6618 I'm currently running a team powers actinium v5 since norcal hobbies is the north America distributor of that brand. Everyone at the track mainly runs Team Powers motors and escs. So I went with that but now I'm thinking this Hobbywing G4R is a stronger motor so I've been looking into them as I'm building my B7

If your track doesn't care/check, I would run an outlaw motor. Those are stock motors with thicker windings to get a ton more torque. There are a few brands that make them.

@wutupclegg6618 yea ive thought about that too. I need to double check with my track. I know they check the blinky mode I'm not sure if they check the motors too closely unless it's a huge club race. Let's say they check and I have to stay away from the outlaw/bandit motors. Do you prefer the Hobbywing over the Team Powers Actinium V5. The test results seem to show the HW is a stronger motor at similar amps. I was also looking at a Helix Fantom too. Those 3 motors seem to be top notch. Thank you for your help

I haven't heard it called that in decades. Try looking searching "Needele Jet" instead of "Emulsion Tube." Needle jet is a lot more common name. eBay has them. Also, Google will have a list of suppliers.

It's a great combo. I am also a big fan of Tekin. They did a good job with this motor.

@@wutupclegg6618 got my motor and raced my car Friday night. And it is exactly as what you described. A little slower with the same gearing compared to my last motor however switched from a 30 to 32 pinion and the car rips faster than before and the motor temps are looking great. Alot of torque. Thanks again for the video very helpful. Set TQ for the main

@@scott6074 I'm glad it worked out. It's a pretty good motor.

Thank you fir the compliment! I greatly appreciate it.

I purchased them from Amain Hobbies.

Ultrasonic cleaners are really nice, but they will not remove major clogs. You can run a stran of wire through the chokes orifice. Also, make sure your idle screw is the right one.

​​@@wutupclegg6618I'll go back through it again. Have new reed valves coming soon and also a new choke plunger coming. I've heard a lot of folks trash talk these carbs but this one is really good except for the idle problem. I'll update after repairs. By the way, thanks for the response.

I believe it is a great motor. I'd be confident using it up against any other motor out there.

@@wutupclegg6618 Thanks I bought one new, it was also Timed and shimmed by surpass, I haven't tried it yet. I'm currently running a reedy 17.5 and it's very fast also.

Yeah... not much of a hybrid system

Sounds like your float level is too low, or there is a crack in your carburetor boot, between the cylinder and the carb.

@@wutupclegg6618 none of that, it was overflowing at one point. i think the carburetor slider sits too high.

Are you sure it's not sucking gas?

@@wutupclegg6618 10 kicks with fuel on and it was dry so yeah im sure

Did you try starter fluid? It could be compression, leaking carburetor boot, or a bad crankshaft seal.

Yes sir. That is correct. Did I accidently explain something different?

@@wutupclegg6618 no you didn’t, but you use the manual speed test to get an rpm value which is difficult to get a true reading from as it jumps about a lot. Of course max rpm off load is a pretty useless value anyway, but we all like big numbers 🤣

Hello. You drain the bowl by loosening the large bolt on the bottom of the bowl.

@@wutupclegg6618 yes I just got it. Someone said it undoos the entire carb and thought that was weird. Thanks for quick response tho

@@ChickenDock Not a problem. It only takes the bowl off if you completely unscrew it.

Are you referring to the JUSD rotor?

@@wutupclegg6618 Yes I’ve got one on the way! Would you recommend lowering the timing or pinion gear? or both?

@dunft1 it depends on the car, track layout, and what you had before.

It is a serious thought. The biggest problem is, I have pay for these motirs.

I would say the tests between the 17.5 and 13.5 should be comparable between different motors.

That's awesome !! We're you using the HW G4R?

@@wutupclegg6618 no I race FWD which uses the spec HW Justock 17.5t combo with 15k rev limit, it a great class

@@Luke-en2tk That's a fun glass. You won the 13.5T class with a Justock 17.5T motor? That is very impressive.

@@wutupclegg6618 no no I didn't win the class a Schumacher team mate did, I only race at my local club these days

I did that with a couple motors. It is interesting to see the difference. The latest was with the Tiken Gen4 R2.

Thank you for the compliment. I was going to do an Exalt, but then the HW dropped. I received a flood of requests for that.

​@@wutupclegg6618Seems like R1 is the one everyone is talking about lately, followed by exalt. I saw a guy at the track I go to the other day running a REDS 17.5 and I was surprised it was a 17.5 this car was absolutely ripping, I would have guessed it was at least a 13.5

@@MX-CO they make a great motor. I'm hoping to get one to test soon.

Stay Tuned. I have a new tester that I have been working on. I'll be showing it soon.

​@@wutupclegg6618Looking forward to it!

The Reedy motors are pretty good. The newer motors are a bit better, but don't worry about that until you need it. Like they say, the fastest way to get around a track is to not crash. LOL...

​@@wutupclegg6618Yeah I agree and I can barely make 2 Laps without crashing, like I said I'm new and our local track is very technical, no straight aways lots if angles and off camber corners. Big jumps etc

@@MX-CO I love tracks like that! It makes it feel like it's more of an offroad track.

Don't give up! Visit your local track. There are usually a bunch of guys that love to help and give tips. You can also try RCTech.net. There's a lot of info in that forum. What kind of track are you racing on, and what car do you have?

@wutupclegg6618 Our local track is indoor clay, off-road track. (Whip it raceway) reno Nevada. My car is a team associated 2wd buggy

What radio, motor, and ESC do you have? Those can get confusing, at first.

Thank you. I really appreciate it. Wait until you see the new testing tool I have. It's going to make the comparisons so much better. I just have to get it all set up.

Are you referring to the equipment I used? I did a video on what I use and where I them. It's called "The Tools. What I Use To Test and Tune..." Check it out.

@@wutupclegg6618 will do!!

Yes. They are approved. All the motors I test are ROAR approved, well, at least at the time of the test. LOL....

I didn't realize it until I had a quite a few people ask me about it. I did the research, and sure enough, nobody else has posted anything about being possible. It's a great truck, and you can get them extremely cheap due to the battery issues.

I apologize, I wish I really could give you those specs. I don't have those specs. some rebuild kits will come with those screws, and you can find them to be quite inexpensive. You will also need the springs and washers. You will need to search for idle adjustment screw and air/fuel mixture screw. Those are their proper names, just in case.

That is on my list. More likely to be my next purchase.

You're Welcome! I love hearing these stories!

That's Awesome! Many repair companies will tell you something can't be fixed then try to sell you another unit. Or, they will try to sell you a new timer for $80. Also, remember, some techs are just too lazy to troubleshoot it. There is not many courses that teach you this skill, so there's a lot of mis-diagnosis going on.

I will definitely be watching more of your channel for tips on fixing appliances and other things

If you have other issues. Let me know.

I have other videos on refrigerators, and a dishwasher.

Wut up Braaaaad... Eastbound and down, load'em up and truckin... Nope, Wut up Clegg is what I hear when someone is about to ask for a favor or question. The Tekin motor is a pretty good motor. It is hard to tell the difference in motors. You may trust a well-known brand, but then find out they less known motor, at a lesser price, is better. That's why I started doing these comparisons. I just built a new machine to compare motors. I'm running a few tests on it, right now, and will do some vids with it soon, I hope.

Very cool! Let us know how it works out for you.

You're welcome. I really appreciate the compliment.