I stand by my Free choices! I will say that I showed some “additional options” but those are like In App purchases, not required to play but available if one so chose 😁
I use lucas oil treatment in my shocks. I also flipped them which helps keep the oil in and moves the bulk of the shock lower. I also stuffed two bb's in each fake reservoir to add a little weight. Y'all have a badass day 🤘
Matt, You should poke fun at Josh by reminding him that he forgot to cut off his mustache to make a "Free chip brush" for the next time he has to paint something!
My suggestion for free mods, flipping the shock, top to bottom to put the body of the shock down at the axle. I also put a screw into each of the "reserviors" for the weight And then also reverse the transmission to move the motor to the front of the chassis for a slight improvement in front rear bias. This does require a pair of modified shafts tho as it shifts the outputs relative to the axles, and also requires the motor wires to be reversed or itll drive the wrong way.
Angle shocks and 4 link conversion using the included spare parts. It gives you a bit of stretch and better articulation. Downside is, it pushes the servo forward which will cause clearance issues. But it performs better.
With where your body lands I would have extended and 4 linked the front axle for the free week, you can do it with all the extra parts that came in the box! would put that front axle under the wheel well better.
the engine is a Straight 6 over head inlet, side exhaust, with a weslake head... probably... very old engine... its a really cool build, and I love it.
I recently picked up a scx24 deadbolt and a enduro24 trailrunner both for 150 bucks. Started upgrading the deadbolt and your videos have been amazing to watch and learn!!!!
Shoe goo and 3mm solder wire makes great wheel weights, just make rings with the solder and shoe goo them to the under side of the rim. You can easily get 2 rings in each rim..AND at a glance from the out side it looks like a brake rotor!
my freebie was adding a M.A.S.K. action figure hanging out of the window looking at the front tire I also have a English bulldog for his Ryder. all toys I've had since the 90s I'd say there free by now.
A kinda free mod you can do is if you have a broken steering servo from a 1/10 scale rig. The pinion gear can be removed from the servo and installed on the stock motor. Gives a bit of gear reduction
It’s a Rover 6cyl 2.6l engine. Sloped head, so exhaust valves are in the block, intake in the head. Low on power, high on torque. Found in 1tonne versions of the S2A and S3s.
You may also know it as a Dual Rotational Electrical Motorized Elemental Locomotor.... oftem referred to as the acronym... wait for it.... wait for it... D.R.E.M.E.L.
The best mod I have done on my SCX24 is buy some RC4WD Mudslingers. The stock tires on these trucks are just terrible. I have a completely stock C10 and a Deadbolt with the Mudslingers and Treal +5mm hexes, and the difference in performance is just amazing on loose dirt/gravel going up a steep incline. For free mods I have been told to remove the front springs and flip the front shocks upside down. You could try that as it is supposed to make a difference. The vid I saw with a vehicle setup like that climbed over some really crazy obstacles. There is really not a lot you can mod on these for free. They are so great right out of the box.
Nice work and a great idea to add heavy diff oil to the shocks.The engine looks a lot like a diesel engine which will look fantastic with some grime when the time comes for some weathering details.Josh I believe if he has a free hand may think that's to use to get his wallet out to spend money to try to out due you.But we all know he will not be able to come even close to your skill level.L.O.L. Looking forward to seeing what's next.Thanks for sharing some Awsome tips and tricks.
I did not take the screw out, I just used a toothpick and coated the walls inside with the green slime worked very well I did all sixth of May 1/ 24 scale
The best free mod is putting the battery up front and the ESC/RX in the back. Basically, swap locations. It can be done for free using the stock mounting trays and hardware. However, I understand you are likely doing a brushless conversion and that is going to dictate the location of things. I have a lot to say about going brushless, but I will hold my comments.
Surprised you didn’t move the shocks towards the center when re-installing them to get more flex and a mild lift. And don’t forget to add zip ties as spring spacers or stretch the springs if you don’t want to add pre-load
Love watching the progress of your build, I put lead bbs in my front tires, from 12 gage bird shot , they have the smallest lead bbs. About a teaspoon or 2, the weight stays at the bottom of the tire when crawlling. On a side note I made wltoys k989 fit 1/25 model bodys by extending the pan and drive shaft. I have a video on my channel of the builds
“If thou wilt lend this money, lend it not as to thy friends, for when did friendship take a breed for barren metal of his friend? But lend it rather to thine enemy, who, if he break, thou mayst with better face exact the penalty.” - by Edward de Vere, Earl of Oxford, aka the Real Shakespeare.
Yea i definitely see Josh tossing in parts he has salvaged from other rigs like the motor/ESC or servos, as opposed to free homemade customization. He has done it on this series already if i remember correctly
You definitely have my vote over josh. I agree on the way your doing yours. But normally prefer you guys to rag on each other in person in stead of your individual videos
It’s no big deal to me but some people freak out. If it runs on steam or electricity or compressed air it is a motor. If it has internal combustion of some sort it’s an engine. I know it does not matter to normal people .
We need to do a GoFundMe so we can afford for him to have a 3D printer, a cad machine, vacuum machine, all types of stuff so you can machine and build things custom and it can be "free" to you at "no cost" 😂
What paint/primer do you recommend for styrene? Watching your channel got me into styrene scratch building, but now I need to paint my fancy box! Keep up the good work!!!
I use Tamiya fine primer usually. For 3D printed material, a high fill primer for automotive purposes is usually in order! Most times I use automotive paint as well.
I know you answer all the comments or at least read them but i would love to hear your opinion im really wanting a 1/10th scale crawler i have a scx24 because they are cheep and i have tinkered with and made mine and love it but i really wanna move to 1/10th scale what would be the best truck for the money and that i can tinker with and "upgrade" i would love to hear what you recommend
Have a good day Rc friends
The Land Rover "Bulldog" is born. Brilliant!
I stand by my Free choices! I will say that I showed some “additional options” but those are like In App purchases, not required to play but available if one so chose 😁
Your argument is not valid.
@@scalebuildersguild for the slime upgrade can you use ae black grease to slow it down is that thick enough?
@@nickmoller1935 for sure!
its all about the definition of "free" some ppl consider screw driver and fancy snips free for other its a 3d printer some ppl say time is money ....
I use lucas oil treatment in my shocks. I also flipped them which helps keep the oil in and moves the bulk of the shock lower. I also stuffed two bb's in each fake reservoir to add a little weight. Y'all have a badass day 🤘
Respect for not cheating. Love the build. Enjoying the series.
zip tie around the top of the upper shock, compressing the spring/raising the frame
Add grease to increase friction…got it!
In this situation, yes! Ha!
Matt, You should poke fun at Josh by reminding him that he forgot to cut off his mustache to make a "Free chip brush" for the next time he has to paint something!
I wonder if I could manage this…
I did the same with my 1:10 Nitto grapplers. And it made a world of difference.
Move your shocks to the frame rails and leaning inwards towards the transmission to lower the COG and gain more flex! Free!
My suggestion for free mods, flipping the shock, top to bottom to put the body of the shock down at the axle. I also put a screw into each of the "reserviors" for the weight
And then also reverse the transmission to move the motor to the front of the chassis for a slight improvement in front rear bias. This does require a pair of modified shafts tho as it shifts the outputs relative to the axles, and also requires the motor wires to be reversed or itll drive the wrong way.
U n josh twisted my arm lol. Had to order me a scx24. Its sittin on the porch sittin for me to get home rite now
for another free mod, you could change the angle of the shocks to increase the flex
@Andrew H. amain?
Angle shocks and 4 link conversion using the included spare parts. It gives you a bit of stretch and better articulation. Downside is, it pushes the servo forward which will cause clearance issues. But it performs better.
Right on green slime I have two tubes one for at home, And one in my backpack great stuff
Love the dremel advice. Another great video. Thank you
I added ballpoint pen springs to shocks to stiffen like overload springs.
I would de-case, delete on/off, extend the battery lead and solder the motor directly to the ESC
That’s a good idea right there 😁
With where your body lands I would have extended and 4 linked the front axle for the free week, you can do it with all the extra parts that came in the box! would put that front axle under the wheel well better.
Nice work! And yes- a running video IS in order 🤌🏼
Not quite free, but magnetic body mounts are quite cheap, or can be free if you've got parts lying around :)
Another free tip. Unglue tire and throw some bbs in them. I find that helps out a lot.
For my scx24 I used some washers I drilled out for wheel weights and put a 1/2 oz weight on the servo that I also already had
id cut the interior out of the deadbolt body and add it inside the land rover
Love the fact that you think way out the box Matt I’m digging it 👍🏻
Best free mod. For me. Was the 4 link making my deadbolt longer. Accompanied with the trial 3mm axial extension. Completely changed the deadbolt.
the engine is a Straight 6 over head inlet, side exhaust, with a weslake head... probably... very old engine... its a really cool build, and I love it.
Thank you!!
I use Z-OPT grease from Shen RC for the shocks and the diffs on my Betty and the two C-10’s. Had really good luck with it.
Citadel makes the best snips
You could move the shock from the shock mount and move it to the frame it will give it just a little higher ride heigth😁👍🏻
I recently picked up a scx24 deadbolt and a enduro24 trailrunner both for 150 bucks. Started upgrading the deadbolt and your videos have been amazing to watch and learn!!!!
Soak the tires in wd40. It makes the tires softer and grab onto rocks easier
Shoe goo and 3mm solder wire makes great wheel weights, just make rings with the solder and shoe goo them to the under side of the rim. You can easily get 2 rings in each rim..AND at a glance from the out side it looks like a brake rotor!
Looking good Matt. I swapped the rear shock towers over and moved them forward one spot so the shocks lay over better. quick easy and free.
my freebie was adding a M.A.S.K. action figure hanging out of the window looking at the front tire I also have a English bulldog for his Ryder. all toys I've had since the 90s I'd say there free by now.
Hands down, yours is so much better looking. Little strange, but definitely more in line with the challenge. Great work.👍
Don't know if u have done it. But super gluing the servo saver together real helps
I like it, cool build Matt... Free is also good.
A kinda free mod you can do is if you have a broken steering servo from a 1/10 scale rig. The pinion gear can be removed from the servo and installed on the stock motor. Gives a bit of gear reduction
I like this idea alot
It’s a Rover 6cyl 2.6l engine. Sloped head, so exhaust valves are in the block, intake in the head. Low on power, high on torque. Found in 1tonne versions of the S2A and S3s.
I don't have any green slime, but I used some dialect grease in all of my friction shocks. Whether stockers or aftermarket, it has worked great.
Are you going to cut back any of the front wheel arch to make the axle look centered? I think it would help with the scale.
obviously he will I highly doubt he would leave it like that
@@landreporter9473 yeah you’re probably right!
velcro mount the front of the body with the pivot in the rear.
I used nail clippers and lexan scissors to cut the boggers I have on mine!
I have a buddy using rubber bands instead of shocks and it’s actually super effective
Order something now and use on next free week. It will just be laying around.
On my Scx24 I moved the shocks for more travel, I also took the springs off of the shocks for a lower cg
That motor is a LR Dual Quad Modulator with a Fostex Grip
You may also know it as a Dual Rotational Electrical Motorized Elemental Locomotor.... oftem referred to as the acronym... wait for it.... wait for it... D.R.E.M.E.L.
The best mod I have done on my SCX24 is buy some RC4WD Mudslingers. The stock tires on these trucks are just terrible. I have a completely stock C10 and a Deadbolt with the Mudslingers and Treal +5mm hexes, and the difference in performance is just amazing on loose dirt/gravel going up a steep incline.
For free mods I have been told to remove the front springs and flip the front shocks upside down. You could try that as it is supposed to make a difference. The vid I saw with a vehicle setup like that climbed over some really crazy obstacles.
There is really not a lot you can mod on these for free. They are so great right out of the box.
Great effort and well thought out, your in my lead atm
Nice work and a great idea to add heavy diff oil to the shocks.The engine looks a lot like a diesel engine which will look fantastic with some grime when the time comes for some weathering details.Josh I believe if he has a free hand may think that's to use to get his wallet out to spend money to try to out due you.But we all know he will not be able to come even close to your skill level.L.O.L. Looking forward to seeing what's next.Thanks for sharing some Awsome tips and tricks.
I did not take the screw out, I just used a toothpick and coated the walls inside with the green slime worked very well I did all sixth of May 1/ 24 scale
Wow dude that’s super cool, I’ll be watching more
The best free mod is putting the battery up front and the ESC/RX in the back. Basically, swap locations. It can be done for free using the stock mounting trays and hardware. However, I understand you are likely doing a brushless conversion and that is going to dictate the location of things. I have a lot to say about going brushless, but I will hold my comments.
You guys rock. I love your builds brother
Just a thought, do any tires have an odd number of lugs for certain sizes? I'd lose it when I got to the end and had two spaces next to each other!
Free mod switch the stock lower links to the top and add extra links from box to strech wheelbase and better approach angle.
Surprised you didn’t move the shocks towards the center when re-installing them to get more flex and a mild lift. And don’t forget to add zip ties as spring spacers or stretch the springs if you don’t want to add pre-load
A free mod is relocating the stock shocks for better travel.
Love watching the progress of your build, I put lead bbs in my front tires, from 12 gage bird shot , they have the smallest lead bbs. About a teaspoon or 2, the weight stays at the bottom of the tire when crawlling. On a side note I made wltoys k989 fit 1/25 model bodys by extending the pan and drive shaft. I have a video on my channel of the builds
That truck looks sweet
“If thou wilt lend this money, lend it not as to thy friends, for when did friendship take a breed for barren metal of his friend? But lend it rather to thine enemy, who, if he break, thou mayst with better face exact the penalty.” - by Edward de Vere, Earl of Oxford, aka the Real Shakespeare.
I picked up a pair of sprue pliers which would be great for this.
High clearance links with a bic lighter just remove one end (axle side) heat , bend and blow on it to cool . When it cools it should stay bent -_-
The land rover engine is a inlet over exhaust 2.6 litre petrol.
The engine is either the 2.25 petrol or the 2.5 diesel both i4's both naturally aspirated
Yea i definitely see Josh tossing in parts he has salvaged from other rigs like the motor/ESC or servos, as opposed to free homemade customization. He has done it on this series already if i remember correctly
Flip the shocks upside down, stops the grease leaking out.
Can I share with you pictures of the free and not so free-ish modifications I have done to my SCX24's?
i cut the springs on mine and it made it lower but still have bottom out compression
So I wonder what Josh’s 3D printed battery tray cost? A dollar two ninety-eight? 😂. Nice idea for those tiny shocks. 👍🏼
it may look better if you increase the size of the front wheel arches
All good if you nick it. its vented now. And will conform better
So What your saying is,budget build offs DONT include buying all the things??! Great vid 👍
You definitely have my vote over josh. I agree on the way your doing yours. But normally prefer you guys to rag on each other in person in stead of your individual videos
Not to worry, there's plenty for me to rag on this week. 😉
A simple free modd you can make would be some styrene shock keys...
The build is looking great so far nice work! 👊😃
I like the free weeks but I definitely think it would be more exciting to do a one free item week instead or also
It’s no big deal to me but some people freak out. If it runs on steam or electricity or compressed air it is a motor. If it has internal combustion of some sort it’s an engine. I know it does not matter to normal people .
Wonder how well finger nail clippers would have worked for the outer lugs...
Good idea!
Need to do a drive conversion for the scale motor - so the motor will look more life like and down right dangerous like Stubby Bob ("Roadkill").
We need to do a GoFundMe so we can afford for him to have a 3D printer, a cad machine, vacuum machine, all types of stuff so you can machine and build things custom and it can be "free" to you at "no cost" 😂
Low blow lol
Not a low blow at all
@@bobaque70 a comment is only thought as low blow when it has a valid point in it. 😉😂
I could season my steak with this video lol
I did it to a cheap pair and there better than the non chopped top tyre wall
Can you please do a video on your gray scx24 JLU. 4
Obviously Josh has thick skin, did you see his stache?!😯
What weight is green slime? Glad your conscience keeps you honest....
Just a question are you going to trim the front fender wells to follow the front tire a little better ? Or does it not hit when you turn lock to lock
TD5 maybe TDI not sure
Very cool man. The pos3 looks great on the back of the truck.
(Land Rover engine).
Hahahahaha.
Great FREE tips man.
GO CANADA.
I accidentally did it and now I have lots of vents it let's the tyres conform with less inner top wall support
Do you like Josh’s mustache
I guess its NOT a cab over (C.O.E) anymore. Not with the oddly placed "motor" in the back. lol
Would it be a B.O.E. Then? (Bed over engine)
What paint/primer do you recommend for styrene? Watching your channel got me into styrene scratch building, but now I need to paint my fancy box! Keep up the good work!!!
I use Tamiya fine primer usually. For 3D printed material, a high fill primer for automotive purposes is usually in order! Most times I use automotive paint as well.
Ok, thanks!
When talking about sipping you said keep the little rubber parts for a "scale point" what does that mean?
I did a joke accessory in one of my comp builds which was a box of removed lugs.
4 link is a nice free mod
Yeah like the concept that people do not understand that an rc car is NOT a vehicle
Do the front longer link thing with the extra ones from the extra parts bag -_-
Looks really good 👍
I know you answer all the comments or at least read them but i would love to hear your opinion im really wanting a 1/10th scale crawler i have a scx24 because they are cheep and i have tinkered with and made mine and love it but i really wanna move to 1/10th scale what would be the best truck for the money and that i can tinker with and "upgrade" i would love to hear what you recommend
Anything from the top brands, Axial, Traxxas, Element or RC4wd should meet that desire to tinker!