2004-2014 Ford F-150 4X4 Clicking Humming: Vacuum Hub Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- You can get the new vacuum solenoid version Here-
Dorman Version-
www.amazon.com/...
Ford Version-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the new Integrated Wheel Ends needed for the Repair (replace both)-
Dorman Version-
www.amazon.com/...
Ford Version-
www.amazon.com/...
These are the vacuum check valves that fail all the time also-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the Blue Loctite I use in the video-
www.amazon.com/...
In this video I walk you through vacuum hub (IWE's) replacement and how they fail on the Ford F150 2004-2014.
Testing- • Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosi...
This video made swapping an iwe on a 2014 f150 a breeze. Your channel is my go to for tackling projects that I otherwise may not have the confidence to do on my own, the first time. I can’t thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and experience with the public. I sure hope RUclips takes care of ya! Happy new year!
Einstein said "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough." You are a master of your art and have helped so many of us. Thank you for being stellar, and thank you for helping me take care of my family!
I've watched scores of your videos over the years in order to troubleshoot issues with my 2010 F150, and to learn more about the vehicle. Your videos are the best on the internet. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
So glad I came across your videos. I had this problem a few year ago on my 2006 f150. The noise would come and go. I spoke with my mechanic and he kept saying that it was the bearing and I begged to differ. I finally carried my vehicle to him and this is what the problem turned out to be. It costed me dearly for the parts and labor. Now I have this problem again but on the opposite wheel. After watching your video I think I’m gonna try and tackle it myself this time. I plan on replacing both to be on the safe side. After doing my research and running down the parts I’m looking at saving over $500. I just want to say thanks for sharing your knowledge on auto repairs. You explain things very well.
Doing the same on my 2014 now, hope it went ok for ya
@@RadTrav270 how was yours? I’m fixing to do mine, most I’ve done before this is a water pump or brake pads lol wish me luck
@@georged1085 I switched the solenoid, so far so good
@@RadTrav270 dang I wish, started with solenoid and check valve. No luck with those
@@RadTrav270same on a 13
Your the man brother you have thought me so much I lost my old man and had to advise or help. Well you have showed me I can work and fix my own stuff and save lots of money brother. 10 years strong watching your videos and learning. You are the best mechanic video guys ever best on RUclips!
I have just finished my hub the same way you discribed. The job took about 2 hours on a ground jack. Thankyou for your video I wached it a few times to go step by step and it went very smooth.Me and my 06 f150 are very happy...thanks again
Is 4×4 working again?
As usual, the greatest Ford how-to videos ever! Made changing out my IWEs pretty painless on my 2012 Expedition. I was getting a low hum and also very faint noise like he demonstrates at low speeds. Sooooo much quieter now! Thanks man!
Brian, you are truly one of the best instructor mechanics taking your time and effort to make helpful videos. I now know enough to get started and tackle this job with confidence. Thank you!
My mom has had this problem on her 4x4 2007 ford expedition for about a year and a half now. We went to several mechanics and they never could diagnose the issue. I am beyond confident that you are correct. Smooth driving in 2WD and WHAM there goes that rattling. Now we will get the problem all taken care of because now know what has to be done. Thank bro for the helpful video. You are a lifesaver!
I love your videos, I was a line mechanic in 1970 at a Chevrolet dealer here in Tucson we did everything from new car make ready to major repairs. When we did the make ready we put our number on the radiator brace so that vehicle came back to us for any maint. the dealer let customers come into the bays to get to know the techs. I was showing a customer what I had done to his car and the service manager chewed me out for explaining too much that could help the customer do the work himself. Thank you for all you do. Times have changed!
I changed mine today. Fast and Easy. There is a coupe videos on here using different methods. This to me is defiantly the best. Great Video.
I have a 2009 f150 and one wheel was locked into 4 wheel drive mode due to a leaking actuator in the hub.I tested both hubs with a vacuum gauge and found out the second ,though working was also leaking vacuum badly.80,000 miles in the salt belt so I'm not suprised.Your video was a great help and I ended up doing both sides in a half day on jacks.Just enough room to sneak the half-shaft past the hub,lots of brake cleaner,but having done both exhaust manifolds recently on this 4.6 liter(with the high shocktower,several broken studs of course), this seemed easy. As an added bonus, this ended up being my long sought after small vacuum leak that was sending long term fuel trims into the low to mid 20's positive.Thanks so much for your videos because they are so much more.You explain well and more importantly, instill confidence in others. Thanks again.
Mine is also making grinding noise, i checked the vaccum lines, there is vaccum but i noticed that vaccum line was not attached on solenoid. Do you think vaccum actuator are gone?
That was the best explained video, I've watched hundreds of videos. You're the best!
Brilliant and well explained. This tutorial saved me big money. Thank you.
Him an eric o are absolutely the very best of the best
Just finished this repair on my 07 sitting on a 5 gallon bucket in my garage at home,. It was one of the smoothest repairs I've ever attempted. Thank you for the video, your advice worked like a charm (like always) bravo sir!!
Thank you for posting this, it is by far the most professional video I could find on the fixing this issue.
The front right caliper locked up on my 2006 F-150 5.4 4x4 XLT and the heat it generated ruined the rotor, pad and the valve stem. I had a local shop replace the calipers and all was well for a few weeks. Eventually I started noticing a loud humming noise coming from the wheel. Using your instructions I replaced the Integrated Wheel End after determining it wasn't holding a vacuum. I also replaced the Four Wheel actuator with the updated part and installed a new vacuum hose harness I found on eBay for $65. The problem seemed to be solve, however after a few hours of driving I started getting a very, very loud rubbing/humming noise that would last for about 30 seconds and then go away for a few minutes.
On a whim I decided to replace the CV half shaft and the problem went away; the old one looked scoured where it seat into the IWE.
Again thanks for the excellent video!
PrimusPilus73 i
PrimusPilus73 I had the humming dragging noise as well with my 2013 recently and the dealer just replaced the IWE, we will see if that was the issue tomorrow. If not I will have them replace the half shaft or at least inspect it. I would think they would have already don’t that when replacing the IWE.
great tutorial, thank you :-)
Thanks for the simple way to get this job done. Mine were sounding like little rattle snake tails when I had my windows down and driving next to barriers, other moving cars and anything that the sound could echo off of. I replaced the solenoid to the Dorman one with the rain cap a couple weeks ago and today installed new hub actuators. No more rattle sounds, all I can hear is the big v8 doing its job. Smooth transition to 4x4 and back to 2x4. Very pleased with the result. You saved me about 1k doing this at the stealership. Thanks again man you rock!
Man you are a life saver. I had this exact same noise happen with my '06 F150, and 2 shop's couldn't figure it out. I came across this video and was able to do the repairs myself. Not only did you save me a lot of money but also my sanity.
From one technician to another a big Thanks for your videos!!!!! I'm a factory trained GM Tech and bought my first ford for sh*ts and giggles. Well I drove home for Xmas which was almost 5000km across Canada and in the middle of a snow storm in -50 degree Celsius weather this god awful 4wd system crapped out. 3 am in a Truck stop parking lot I found myself watching your informative videos and diagnosed the problem as the solenoid which caused my IWE actuator to chew itself apart along with the hub. Blasted into a remote northern town, grabbed an updated 4wd solenoid, two vacuum check valves, an IWE and a hub, and slammed them in and in less than an hour I was back in 4wd action blasting through the inclement weather. I had never encountered the Ford vacuum 4wd system and your videos saved me a ton of time diagnosing in the dark in bitter weather. Love my truck but I will hate this 4wd system till the end of time LOL.... but again thank you very much for taking the time to provide these videos.
gmctech Oh wow interesting story for sure. The flaw was in the original solenoid so now that you changed all three items you should be good for a long time. These trucks are actually very reliable we hardly see them for as many as there are on the road. Thanks for the story and I am glad I could help!!
This guy is a legend! Was nervous tackling this but knocked it out with no issues. Thank you sir!
Just did this in my driveway! Took about an hour for the passenger side, probably less now on the driver side. You know, stopping and starting your video to make sure i'm good! Saved me big time!!
Great video, as usual! I know you wouldn't/can't recommend this, but I had issues with the IWEs and managed to remove them, clean and regrease. The gear themselves can be reversed, to provide a fresh mating surface. A little tip, if someone can't afford $120/EA. 👍😁 Thanks again for all your time making and sharing these videos! Cheers.
I watched about 5 videos on this issue. All said I needed to take the axle off by removing 6 bolts. I was lazy so I said "this guy did it" I am doing his method. I have a 2007. Jacked the truck up with a bottle Jack. Did everything he said and followed this videos sequence. I had an electric impact. Took me about 1 hr in total. Finding my tools, jacking the truck up, taking it a part and putting it back together. Putting the tire back on it. 1 hour. This method is awesome. Fixed the problem now my. 4 wheel drive works. Thanks man you are awesome
finally went and did the fix, and watched again through the work. what a big help. thank you so much
Update: One week later, in freezing weather, passenger side spoke up! took about half the time to replace. I now understand why you do them in pairs. Couldn't have done it without your video. I saved $600 to $800.00 in labor ......Thank you!!
Jim Bennett Yup always in pairs we have been bit before.
Thank you for this video, I took my truck in to get work done and my mechanic could not figure out, now he has. Thanks for putting this up.
I know this video is several years old but it damn sure save my ass. It’s 2 AM and I just had to do this to my truck because a local garage screwed me over and changed the passenger side wheel bearing when I told them it was the vacuum hub on the driver side. I didn’t know until after I pick my vehicle up in the shops closed. I am leaving on a 12 Hour Dr. tomorrow and desperately needed my truck. You are a lifesaver buddy thanks so much
FordTechMaKuloco You're the best man, every time I have an issue with my truck I go straight to your channel
Using a trans jack for a camera bipod.. proving you’re the goat mechanic
your a great teacher and you know how to show on camera what is what and how to do thanks im recomending you to my friends!!!
Oh wow thanks!
Watched your video this morning and then went out and replaced both vacuum hubs on my 2013 Ford F-150. I followed your steps to a tee and no issues . Thank you for the step by step video.
thanks for the video ... was way easier your way than some of the other ways I watched....And I didnt need a hoist... took me a total of 45 minutes to do the job on both sides.. including putting the tools away and cleaning up....... KUTOS TO YOU .....
Your videos have turned me into a DIY guy. I didn't grow up with a mechanic in my family and I enjoying doing this kind of work especially when it saves me a lot of money. Thanks so much for your videos!
You do some of my favorite tech vids on RUclips, my girlfriend drives a f150 or i never would have found you. Gm pickups all the way but you are one hell of a mechanic. I've learned a lot!
Thank you sir, I tackled this long over due issue today. I figured hours of fighting, cussing and a little blood would fill my day. After watching your video, I realized it wouldn't be so bad. I had a hour and ten minutes into the solenoid and hub change. Of course I did not have a lift and I battled a brigade of mosquitos. Again, thanks for the video.
Ken Bayard Oh no mosquitos are the worst when you are working
Awesome video. I think this is my current problem. I started by replacing my IWE Solenoid on my 05 and the noise pops on still occasionally. After i pop it into 4x4, and then back to 2wd, it stops for a few days.. then comes back. Thoughts?
Taylor Jensen did you end up figuring out what was causing the intermittent issues
Frank Joseph Jr it was his hub sticking mines doing the same thing I plan on changing mine tomorrow....I’ve had the hub since summertime you would think I would’ve change it when it’s nice and dry........nope I just procrastinate till it’s -2 and a 1’ of snow on the ground and I need 4x4 ......yep that sounds like a good time to do it
When I'm about to work on my truck using one of your videos as a guide, I'll watch the video on 1.25X playback speed. This was a great guide that saved me a decent mechanic bill.
Just finished my 07 hubs, went exactly as explained, video was amazing thank you. Keep up the good work
He is such a good technician that watching him work is almost therapeutic. The quality of work is second to none.
Mine makes a grinding noise only when I turn right I changed the bearing and still didn't fix the problem
Could be dust cover rubbing hub/wheel
mine did same thing, got bent driving in a ditch
I just got done changing both sides. Took about 2 hours. I took my time and had everything I would need ready. I was certain the drivers side was the problem, but turns out it was the passenger side. Wouldn't compress like it should and when I shook it, black mist shot out of the vacuum connection. Take his advice on changing both sides., it's spot on. Thanks for the great video!
This is exactly what mine does, only it's on the driver's side
jonbar87 what does it sound like exactly? Because recently I changed the cv axels on my truck thinking it was that, because the boots were torn and the axles got dry and showed wear. But I still have the damn noise. For me it sounds like a mild clacking. Kinda when you have bad rotors or brake pads. But everything is fine down there, just the damn noise.
I have the same issue. Only on the driver's side. How did you fix yours? and how much did it cost you?
@@codycannon1049 never figured it out or got it fixed.
jonbar87 so I got mine fixed. It’s the iwe and shaft are grinding gears. It’s when you lose seal which keeps the truck out of 4x4. I needed a new iwe, new shaft and new hub assembly. Cost me 1600 with labor
Cody Cannon was it clicking or more so grindy screeching out of the blue ?
Thank you for posting this video. I have taken my 2013 F150 lariet to my dealer twice for this problem only for them to tell me they were unable to repeat issue. The second time taking it I told them I wanted the vacuum system checked because I knew it had something to do with vacuum. All they did was told me they checked for vacuum leaks. I was about to place this up on all four wheels to video the problem but, after watching your video, I am convinced this is my problem.
Great video! The clicking sound was exactly what was going on with my 2005 Expedition on the driver's side. I took my vehicle to several repair shops in my area and was surprised how many were not familiar with the vacuum hub system. I decided I would have to do this myself to avoid taking to the dealer. I watched this video a few times before attempting. I had some initial difficulty with the removal of the tie rod end bolt, as it kept spinning. The information in your outer tie rod replacement video explaining the hex holding feature was very helpful with solving this:
ruclips.net/video/rif0UpVa-Gg/видео.html
I was able to complete the driver's side in about and hour and the other side seemed easier. Thank you very much for the great information! There is no way I would have considered doing this myself with this video.
Did it fix it?
@@boostedbadboyzx12r31 Yes and still working great. I used Dorman
BEST WAY TO DO IT. If your researching on how to fix this then this video is the best way. I did mine today and it was pretty easy. Other guys are disconnecting the struts and it’s not necessary. Do it just like this man shows you and it’s a easy job. 👍
I just did this last night. I followed your steps exactly. everything worked perfectly. It eliminated the humming noise I was experiencing along with that nasty clicking sound. thanks so much. This is the second video you have helped me with. keep them coming.
This is the best demonstration of this job that I have seen. Easy to understand, thorough, and well explained. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video I was redoing the plugs on my 2004 Ford Triton 5.4 two-wheel I thought I knocked the vacuum line off on the passenger side but could not locate have the vacuum line but do not have the solenoid does a vacuum line plug into anything being a two-wheel drive greatly greatly appreciate your time
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I got stuck in the mud trying to move my boat. My Ford 150 super crew lariat 4x4 2005 4wheel drive was not working. It was the solenoid. After following your detail explanation on how to diagnose each and every part, the selonoid was defective! Jacked the car up and all the wheels spin accordingly: 2H , 4x4H and 4x4L. So happy and saved alot of money thanks to you. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the great video. I bought my 2004 several months ago and it had that sound. Brought it back to the dealer and they took it to the Ford dealer. The repair dept said the brakes were new and needed to break in. I was skeptical, but hey they are supposed to be the professionals. The sound was always intermittent. After researching it on the truck forums, found out it was the IWE's and vacuum solenoid. Of course the two month warranty expired and now I have to eat the cost. Thanks to your video it won't be so bad. Being some what mechanically inclined I will do it myself and save a bundle. Can't thank you enough.
Wow that sucks they bounced you around like that but yes just follow my video I have done a ton of these and you will be fine and save a boat load of money. Great to hear you found my video in time and I hope it all works out.
Thanks for the video! I changed my passenger side, put the new solenoid with the hood, and changed the vacuum check switch. Drove the truck for about a week and now the driver side is making noise.. Oh well, the job wasn't too bad thanks to the video. My truck has had new cam phasers, plugs, and coils, and now both vacuum hubs, solenoid, and check switch done in the last month... Hope that's it for another 100k
Thanks Brian! You just saved me some money. I had this done at the dealership once before for $700. When I hear hub replacement it freaks me out. Not anymore.
That was by far the best video I have seen on this IWE issue. I replaced the solenoid on my 2010 Lariat. The grinding noise subsided for about two weeks. It's back again at various speeds, straight-line and uphill. Ford has burnt me in the past but I haven't a dependable/knowledgeable mechanic in my area....so it looks like I am going back to Ford. Great video....TY sir
My friends 08 F150 is making the same noise. His mechanic told him he needed 2 wheel actuators, 1 hub and new vacuum lines. Great video Thanks
I was going to have the shop do this on both sides. They quoted $634.00 . I just followed your video and did the first side with no issue. Thank you very much for the great video and channel!!
Thanks Brian, I've done this job before but it was long ago, forgot the little tricks to make it faster and easier. Friend is bringing his 04 over today to replace the actuator, now I can look smart :D
I pulled mine apart while doing ball joints and upper control arms. The grease was very thick and dirty. What type of grease should I use and how much? Your videos have been a wealth of knowledge
Dude, your videos help me out so much. To the point when I'm diagnosing my truck I look for your instructions. Well spoken and well explained. Thanks!
Thank you so much for taking the time to put this video on I just did both sides on my F-150 2010 went like a breeze both sides two and a half hours. My whole system checked out held vacuum, but the passenger side grease was all dried out and intermittently hanging up in 4wd cleaned everything repacked with new grease everything good to go. Working smooth. Thanks a million for the well done video.
Thank you so much for this video. I fixed my Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 using this video. The Midas shop here in Lincoln NE wanted to charge me 1250 dollars. I fixed it in under an hour and in only costed me 235 dollars in parts. Thanks Again for Sharing
Awesome. You owe mr loco a beer!
'05 F-150. Saw this video after I heard some humming on my front right end. Replaced the solenoid and that fixed it. Just recently started hearing that grinding/clicking again so it looks like I'll have to replace the lock actuator as well now. Thanks for the video and links to the parts!
Great narration skills, beautifully photographed and clear mechanical skill - Thanks for the help
I just changed a pair out. Cost of parts was $34.00 per side (2 actuators and 2 cotter pins). Bought the actuators from Amazon. I just looked and you can now get the actuators for $28.00 per. Now need to spend big bucks. They are all the same. Did the replacement in my driveway in 35 degree weather and it took 3 hours. 2 jack stands, floor jack and a few common hand tools. A 1/2 inch impact helps greatly. I did not have the remove the front drive axles from the transfer case. Very very simple. Cleaning prior to reassembly was the most difficult.
This is fantastic! I've been getting this sound for about a week and could never pinpoint where it was coming from! The buzzing is getting to the point where it's annoying and I'm sorry for the people driving next to me! It sounds like an episode of wicked tuna!
Your awesome! Just completed mine. Replaced vacuum modulator and driver wheel end. You explain very thorough and easy to understand. I rate this task a 3 on scale of 10 being hardest. Is a little cumbersome handling the (rotor and knuckle) using Jack stands and Jack being low to ground being a big dude. Defiantly doable for not a master mechanic. Thanks again!!
Really appreciate your video, I've never fixed cars/trucks before, this was my first and with the help of your video it took me and a friend to get the vacuum hub replaced in 1 hour! We did everything as you showed and now there is no sound coming from that front wheel! Thank-you!
Now that is awesome!
I had replaced my front right cv axle on a 2004 f-150 lariat as it was starting to drag. Truck has brand new struts and for the last 4 years a 3” levelling kit. I did the same procedure of dropping the outer tie rod and upper ball joint. The hub spins fine and the flange in the back where the cv axle bolts up too, spins flawlessly on its own. I seated the new cv shaft so that it was fully engaged on the spline, spun the hub and everything turned great. Then put on the 13mm axle nut to hold it in place, at 20ft/lbs. then installed the upper ball joint to the control arm. Then mounted the flange end of the cv axle to the diff flange. Once I had bolted it all together, the whole hub and cv axle assembly was binding and not turning. It only turns freely once I remove the cv axle from the flange. Left side has zero issues. Any one have issues with the cv axle binding?
Brian, Thank you for making Video on replacing IWEs (vacuum hubs), I replaced both of the IWEs today, I watched your video several times and took notes. I did exactly as you said to do. As you had mentioned, getting the ball joint hooked back up was a little of a pain however, I was able to do it by myself. Had to utilize hand tools but, it really wasn't that bad. I did it in my garage by placing my truck up on jack stands. I also went on and replaced the solenoid as well. Before I changed the IWEs, I did a vacuum check last weekend on the system and had found the passenger side unit was not holding vacuum. I figured that I would just go ahead and change out both. The only thing I have left to do is clean out the vacuum lines, they have rusty looking crud in them. I noticed this because the test vacuum hand pump (Harbor Freight Special) I used has clear tubes and it sucked alot of the crud into it.
Can I disconnect the vacuum lines from the IWEs and spray brake clean into them and then blow them out with air for a compressor??
I have a 2008 f150 built 10/2007 and after watching this Vid I went and looked under the hood and the little rooftop that blocks the water was installed! Great job helping me and others to avoid future damage! BTW, I was thinking of what I was going to use as a shelter while I was walking to my Truck :) Thanks again for your help!
Wow! You have answered the question to one of my truck problems. Thank you! It's intermittent, happens at higher speeds and goes away, but I don't need to let it continue. You've beat F-150 Forum as my troubleshooting go-to. My F-150 is my favorite truck.
just had this done at dealer yesterday.entered it in youtube and you popped right up .it's so nice to be able to see just what they did.you aer the BEST.bob coad
Very nice approach. I just followed your method for my 2009 F-150, and it was straight forward. My 2009 was a bit different than the one in your video but close enough for the technique. I had to remove the brake line bracket and the other line bracket to get enough room to pivot the spindle down without stressing the lines, but it was straight forward, and much easier than any other way to do this job! Without air tools, it was more difficult, but at least my cordless impact wrench helped out some. Now I have 4WD again, at least until the vacuum hub on the other side dies on me....
Thank you for explaining that in the newer vehicles that the vacuum hoses get damaged... I tried using 4x4 tonight and it wouldn't engage, got that clicking sound when it was trying to engage. I pulled the wheel and the little cap/hub nut, everything looked ok there. When I started the truck and checked vacuum at the solenoid it was very strong, but much weaker at the vacuum hub itself.
I was just about to order a new hub, but I will check vacuum from the hub hose tomorrow first, thanks!
This is by far the best video on the topic. Think this is what happened to my 2018 F150 4x4 XL with just 10,000 miles. I drove through a huge pond once and I think it might have gotten a bunch of water in the vacuum hub. Get a terrible metal on metal grinding sound sometimes while driving, disappears when I switch to 4WD. Headed to dealership tomorrow... hope they don't jerk me around..
I want to thank you for the way you did this mechanical work . Now I can use this in my work. Thank you. You have a excellent way of teaching, again thank you!!
Your the best mechanic out there, “KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK” ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Appreciate the complete insight to this problem. Same issue with my 2004 Expedition. Couldn't figure out why this gear was engaged. Your a great help. Keep doing more videos. Your help is very detailed and easy to follow
I should have watched this video before replacing my hubs, however they're replaced and still noisy. So now I have to tear them apart and do it all over again, many thanks for the vids, they are a God send for me.
Your videos are the best. Viewers make sure to check the one way - vacuum check valve - located by the solenoid (remove and blow through it (should only blow one way)) I see them fail a lot, which leads to partial application of the hub actuator (noisy) during acceleration, usually only on Drivers side. The dealer sells it as a vacuum harness for $20.00 Ford # 4L3Z-3A788-AA.
Great instructional video. My 2007 Ford 150 made noise from 4 WD hubs. Checked all vacuum as instructed. The vacuum does not shut off when switched into 4 WD. It should. Anyway I am replacing both hub assemblies and actuators for the 2nd time in a couple months. Cant tell if vacuum is shutting down when driving in 2 WD? Something is killing the hub gears and actuator gears. Once I fix it this time I am going to get rid of it. I have had it with Ford 4 WD technology or lack of it.
so glad i found your channel, i am a ford guy, you are are my go to for ford knowledge. thank you for making these videos, you have saved my life time and over again. your videos are by far the best. it is evident that you are a master at this. i mostly do the work on my f150 myself, thanks to your videos. seriously, you are a God send..
Great video Brian, My truck was making that ratcheting noise from the drivers side hub. Did a little research and realized that it was the vacuum hub problem. I watched your video and took a few notes then bought the parts and did the job myself. Piece of cake, couldn't have done it and wouldn't even have attempted it until I saw your detailed video. You saved me a ton of money. Give me your address and I'll send you a check. Lol
Thank you for the video!!! Had the exact same sound on my 2006 F150. Followed the video exactly and got it fixed!!
Thank you again for the video. I had something similar and took it to the dealer under the drive train warranty. They said the hubs didn't have enough grease in them and they have found it's a common problem from the factory.
Great video. This was exactly the problem I had. Once I removed the diaphragm and turned it over all this black water came out. Must have been half full. This was easy to change out. Thanks for posting it.
One of the best technicians on RUclips
Thanx Ben
We watched a different video, A1. We didn't turn the wheel before putting the 13 mm nut on the axle.
We had a little noise, in 2wd. We are going to take the nut off tomorrow, and spin the wheel and 1/2 shaft. I hope we did no damage?
My '07 F150 just started doing this tonight. Taking it to my mechanic in the morning. Thanks for the info about the modified solenoid. I'll see about getting that done at the same time.
I'm having this exact issue right now. Just picked up my truck from the transmission shop. 2700 bucks for a rebuild and I get half way home and this happens. Can't catch a break. Thanks for the video! Does take some stress away.
Thanks for the video! I too, didn't have any noise, but the 4 wheel drive wasn't working even though the 4X4 light was on. Brought it to multiple garages and after they put in a new transfer case motor, solenoid still nothing. I did some more research, figured it had to be the IWE's and watched your video. A few hours later I finally had 4 wheel drive again. Many thanks! 2005 F-150 FX4
John Novak Wow that's frickin awesome!
If someone has F-150 problems your the guy to see. Excellent video!
I have been trying to figure out what is causing this for a year now. I’ve sunk over 1800$ in parts replacing hubs, half axles, rack and pinions, debated on burning the truck and leaving it for the insurance to handle. Only to find out it’s an hour job and less than 200$ in parts. I wish I would have found this sooner. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
Thanks for the video. I watched your video last night and did this job on my friends truck this morning. The entire job took 2 hours total time. Thanks again for a very informative video.
My truck was making this sound occasionally for about 15 miles. When I stopped driving and shut the truck off I noticed when I slammed the door it made a hissing sound. This happened a few times in a row but I couldn’t figure out what that noise was. Does anyone have an idea? Are the two related?
Thank you for your video. The one I just worked on ended up being rust dust in the vacuum hoses. Disconnected all the connections and blew backwards with compressed air. Worked fine after that.
I just did a coil-over install and then it started making a noise like a wheel bearing going out. I replaced the hub assemblies (L&R front) but still have the same noise. Then I tried it in 4WD and the noise went away. After searching, this video popped up and I think I have an answer to the problem. A secondary issue is that it doesn't engage in 4H or 4L very smoothly now and I assume it is all tied to the actuator. I probably didn't seat it correctly when re-connecting the hub (after the coil-over upgrade) as per your technique and that is what triggered this whole thing. I'll be diagnosing later today and will get back to this comment with how it turned out.
Great video and easy step by step instructions! I replaced mine and the seals were shot on it. Now, however it is still "growling" but only when I am getting into the gas to accelerate, as soon as I let off the gas the grinding goes away. I replaced the solenoid, no luck. I checked the vacuum on mine compared to my father in laws 06 and it feels about the same. Not sure if i missed something in installing it?!
YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER!!!!!
That exact noise just started on my 05 tonight so now I know what parts i have replace and I now know the procedure on how to do it too!
ar15freak Sweet!
FordTechMakuloco I changed the hub actuator and I still have this noise but now it's only when I'm on the throttle in 2wd instead of when moving all the time
ar15freak I had the same problem with my 2010 F1 50 all-wheel-drive Harley Davison when you give it the gas it makes a lot of noise when you let off of it it does not make any noise now this is in two wheel drive put it in all wheel drive it makes no noise I replaced everything except the main hub will that be the problem thanks
Thank you!!! All went almost step by step. Exception was my impact gun did not have enough torque to zip the ball joint nut off. Used a 13/16 wrench on the nut and locked the spindle bottom with a 10mm wrench on the end. Really really pleased (relieved) how well it went. Keep up the good work!!!
next time just take loose the strut tower on the bottom you can get it out that way. Pull it out away from the wheel.
I replaced both of the hubs and solenoid on my 2006 F150 about 6 months ago with the help of your videos! Now I am experiencing the same problems as before. What else could I do, or check before I replace these hubs again? Thank you!!
This was so helpful. Perfect. I wish i had a lift and air tools so I could have been quicker. But all the instructions were spot on and now I can hear everything else that may need service. Hail to you, my friend. Chuck in NE Kansas