How to find the component causing the grinding on Ford F-150 4wd trucks.
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- This is a quick and easy way to check the IWE components such as the solenoid, check valve, IWE actuator, and hoses on a Ford F-150 to find out which one is causing the grinding, growling, or 4wd not engaging or staying engaged problems.
Mighty vac
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IWE Actuator
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IWE Solenoid
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IWE Check Valve
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Blackhawk B6350 Black/Red Fast Lift Service Jack - 3.5 Ton Capacity
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Pro-LifT T-6903D Double Pin Jack Stands - 3 Ton
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Mighty vac
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IWE Actuator
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IWE Solenoid
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IWE Check Valve
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Blackhawk B6350 Black/Red Fast Lift Service Jack - 3.5 Ton Capacity
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Pro-LifT T-6903D Double Pin Jack Stands - 3 Ton
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I have so much respect for people that take the time to make these kinds of informational videos and put them on RUclips for free. Thank you
Facts u get different opinions n different looks to help u
@@chantrellasmith6002 Huh?
Well it is nice, but they get a little money on those 6 second ads
@@WaffleHouseFightNight They should!
2 years late but great comment!
I want to compliment the owner of this channel for his help and patience explaining things over and over in these comments. You sir are a gentleman and have done a great service for so many people. I have yet to check out my truck with the knowledge I have gained here, but had to take the time to thank you in advance for what you are doing here. Thank you.
I've been servicing these same problems on fords and i can say you didn't miss out any information in diagnosing. Perfect video!
I'm glad to hear that, I am not a Ford specific mechanic so I have to study and learn the systems the best that I can.
Would all of this still be relevant for a 2017 f150? Would i
I trouble shoot it the same way
Thank you for taking the time to show us DIYer's a thorough procedure for troubleshooting this system.
Great video! I have been dealing with this issue for a couple months now and can't wait til sunrise to isolate my problem. Thank you!
My mechanic broke the vacuum lines. After repairing the big line. I was getting crazy trying to figure out where the small hose connected up at the engine bay. Thanks to this video. Now I know is just a ventilation line. Thumbs up to this video. Made my day a bit better.
Leave it to an a&p mechanic to break it down so well for the rest of us noobs. Great video sir
The best video I've found so far on troubleshooting the problem. Every three weeks I drive to or from work 10 hours, I've started getting this grinding noise about 6-8 hours I can switch to 4wd and back to 2wd and it goes away, happens about 4-5 times over 30 minutes. Ford dealership stated there were no codes, so I need to dig deeper, an intermittent problem.
I’m so glad you made this. I am a mechanic but I didn’t know how these work. I drive all over the state of Texas in the oilfield and my truck started making grinding noise from both hubs. I know more of where to troubleshoot to. I think mine is a bad check valve or solenoid is weak.
I have a 2013 Ford F150 king ranch, making a humming noise on the driver side and couldn’t figure out what it was or where it was coming from. This video really helped, Thanks for taking the time and patience to explain how the system works.
Completed a right-side IWE replacement today. Disassembling revealed that the IWE had *split in two*, with the spline gear stuck on the hub's spline and barely engaged on the CV side spline. Explains why the grinding was on right-hand turns - the weight of the CV would cause it to disengage from the stuck spline gear. Both the CV and hub splines where in perfect shape, so I avoided a far more expensive repair.
The replacement tested fine during assembly and when everything was back together, let's hope it lasts longer than its predecessor.
Just had this problem on my buddy's truck, just on the driver's side. Turned out all the plastic vacuum lines were crap, they fell apart in my hands, replaced them with new rubber vacuum hose, that's what I had, fixed the problem. So people check all the vacuum lines, especially where they connect to the rubber elbows, could be your problem and save you a ton of money.
If it hasn't already been mentioned, Ford just gave up on IWE on the 2015+ F150's. The truck's all still come equipped with the same setup as above, but they released a TSB instructing it to be locked out with the hubs always engaged. Tsb 22-2219. The vacuum is capped at the solenoid.
So how would you disengage 4WD then?
@@SlimShady771 The transfer case is what engages and disengages the 4wd. The IWE's can be engaged 100% of the time and not have any power coming to the front differential.
What an incredible video. I can diagnose my issue now. Th k you
TALK ABOUT DUMB LUCK!!
IT WAS DUMB LUCK ME FALLIN INTO THIS VIDEO, BUT WHAT A JEWELL!
YOU SIR HAVE THE PATIENCE OF JOB!!
THANKS FOR POSTING AND IN DEPTH DETAILED EXPLANATION!
INSTANT SUB!!
WOW! THAT WAS LOUD!!
Bro, this video is AWESOME 👏!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the symptoms/ causes!!! I have a complete understanding as to what I’m looking for now!!! Wish I would’ve come across this video sooner. Again, thank you, Sir.
Literally replaced everything listed but once in a while it still does it!
If you have an ecoboost make sure your vacuum is at least 15 to 21 inHg.
I've learned something new today and I will be bringing this information to a mechanic soon. Thanks for the awesome video
The solenoid can be partially blocked as well. I just replaced the IWE's on my truck and the passenger side still would not disengage until after the engine is run for a minute or so. You could also hear the IWE's slap over small bumps and clunk on hard slow turns indicating very weak vacuum. Replacing the solenoid even though it was still technically functioning electrically, solved this. My best guess is the solenoids range of motion degrades over time to the point where it is never open enough to get full vacuum after a certain point. It's probably best practice to replace the solenoid at least once every 2 years by my experience. By year three they are definitely done. Will save you from having to replace the much more expensive IWE's which I had to do as they were both destroyed on my truck and it is only a little over 5 years old.
Good info to know.
Excuse me, could you provide the solenoid part number please?
Mine was fairly easy to diagnose because it was a split hose. The zip tie clip at the very end that pushes into the knuckle ate a hole into the line. I ordered my new one and put a piece of tape on it for now😂 it still leaks but not as bad.
I used the tips in this video to check everything and it seems to work fine, just a old hose
Thank you so much for sharing video. It helps me a lot to find stupid hauling noise come from.
May have just cured me of a headache. I've been hearing a clunking noise from the front drivers side and going through ball joints, sway arms, tie rods, wheel bearings... I did notice in triage that the wheels are engaging the axle on both sides while being out of 4 wheel. I'm going to try replacing the solenoid and check valve as they're relatively cheap. Thanks!
thank you for the content. this is the exact answer i was trying to get from the stealership.. helps me understand everything. thank you
Very informative was able to fix my truck myself and be saved from the stealership 👍
Thanks for the video.
My 4x4 wouldn't engage.
Checked solenoid and it was full of fine sand, so i replaced solenoid and checked the 2 valves on my 2007 f150.
Still did not work and no error code.
When put into 4x4, the vacuum from top port would not stop. So i replaced the tranfer case switch and that did the trick.
The tranfer case switch must need to be working to groung out solenoid for (it) to work. 🤷♂️
Thanks again for the vid!
Thank you thank you for creating such an incredible video! Very informative and he explains everything well!
Waited a month for the Ford dealer to get the front wheel hub assembly. When it came they told me I had to wait another month for them to find 20 minutes to install it under warranty. I sold cars for 30 years, had I treated customers like this I wouldent have lasted a year in business.
The 13th Gen F150 has a TCCM firmware update that prevents the solenoid from allowing vacuum until the truck has been driven 2 or 3 miles after every start. This makes diagnostics a bit more complicated.
Yea, I just found that out about a month ago. Very cheesy fix from ford.
Very in depth video. Thanks a lot for this information!!
Damn good explanation of this system. Thank you!
Excellent video. Very straightforward explanation of what you are checking and why you’re doing it.
Mine made the noise, replaced vacuum and check valve. Still the same noise. The vacuum lines were brittle as hell. Amazon does not carry the vacuum tubing. Ford dealership for 40 dollars. Part #BL3Z7A785A. 2011 Ford f150 xlt. Works perfect now
Awesome job showing how to do this.
I'm having that Grinding noise on my 2014 f150.
I have tested vacuum at the wheel ends and there's 23 lb. The solenoid is switching on and off.
I tested both iwes and they function correctly and hold vacuum at 15 lb without leaking.
The truck only makes the grinding noise when it is cool in the morning below 55°. The noise goes away when switched into 4wd. Once the truck is driven and warmed up. It does not make the noise again. I have ordered a new check valve and waiting for it to arrive from Ford.
Update: even though the check valve was bad it did not fix the problem. I ended up replacing both iwe's. Now it's nice and quiet like a new truck.
Hey Matt, same year, same problems. Just curious whats roughly the price tag that came with both iwe's?
@@andrewahline4800 Here are the parts I used www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042ORWNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Less than $200. The IWE's fixed the problem. Nice and quiet.
Excellent video. Two thumbs up
Thanks, buddy. That's always nice to hear.
I have an '18 F150 with the intermittent grinding noise coming from the right side. Started about 2 years ago. Have been to the Ford dealer twice and they have not been able to figure this out. Last time I brought it in they told me it was something that was frequent in F150's and there was no fix. It would change with the weather. Dude, I kid you not. That is exactly what they said! Like my Ford has arthritis or something. I am convinced it has to be the IWE since nothing else seems wrong and everyone on youtube that describes the problem sounds the same as mine. Time to get my hands dirty and solve something the manufacturer themselves could not figure out. Frustrating thing is it started while truck was under warranty, now I might have to pay for parts out of pocket.
It's interesting as it seems like if I put it in 4H for a few miles it'll stop for a day and then comes back. Hmm, maybe a weak solenoid?
The best thing you can do is buy a handheld vacuum pump. amzn.to/3peNtOk and unplug the iwe's and pull a vacuum and make sure they hold solid, if they do use the vacuum pump gauge to make sure you are getting good vacuum down to the iwe's.
Thank you for the detailed video
Thanks for taking the time to make a great and easy to understand excellent work man thanks
Thank-you sir. This has shown me that the IWE is bad in my case
Perfect explanation. Thanks for the complete explanation.
This is a great video ,very useful ! Thx
I have a 2009 F150 and I got the grinding noise coming from what sounds like the drivers side front tire, but watching your video, my passengers side was also engaged and axle spinning when the truck was off and the drivers side was free spinning. But like I said the sound feels like it's coming from the driver side 🤷♂️ I gotta look into it some more on Monday to get the IWE replaced
Mine would grind and only when the truck was moving, I thought for sure it was the bearing hub. One morning I started up the truck and the grinding noise started. The first time the sound was made while at a stop, turned out to be my water pump. The grinding only happened while moving previously. I could barely turn the impeller on the old pump. And the funny thing was, I started up the truck so that I could position it to jack it up and inspect the hub bearing.
Great video man well done sir!
I have a 17 f150. My drivers side started making the grinding noise and wouldn’t shift from 2h-4h. I replaced the check valve and it worked immediately, no noise and would shift from 2h-4h. This was about 2weeks ago. I got in the truck 2 days ago (1st time driving since part replacement) and the noise is back and won’t shift. Ugh. Thought the $10 fix would work longer than that,lol.
Fantastic video. Great description of operation.
Thank you.
Good info! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2015 F150FX4 with a 5L. and only 50k and had a noise that sounded like a cat heat shield vibrating. I replaced with Ford #FL3Z-3A788-B with sucess.
I have the same truck it only happens when I’m slowing down then making a turn was the same thing happening to yours ?
@@mattfolkers827 my source was the cross pipe exhaust heat shield that had two clamps on it. One was loose allowing vibration/noise. I replaced the loose one with a stainless hose clamp solving problem
I occasionally has one IWE that starts to engage of I'm climbing a hill on the highway... My vacuum reservoir will also bleed down overnight which can cause a scare if I jump in the truck, fire it up and immediately back up.... No brakes! I'll use this video to start finding that leak... I suspect might be check valve because it's so slow....
My 17 250 is doing it and the Dealer can't figure it out
This is an awesome video thank you for breaking down how everything works. I found a split and the vacuum line going to the drivers hub. Quick trip to the dealership $45 for the part and I was fixed.
I have a 2020 with 20k miles and I get binding when I first switch into 4hi when it’s really cold outside. I think it’s not fully engaging
Will new wheel bearing come with iwe
No
Very useful and informative video, thank you.
Should I be able to pull a vaccum on the line going to the IWE and it hold?
Yes
If I hook my pump to it from the wheel I can't pull any vaccum, what's your thoughts? Bad check valve I'm scratching my head at this point the iwe is holding vaccum
@@shanonboykin717 if you pull the dual vacuum hose off one of the ports should pull a solid vacuum and hold, if it doesn't hold you have a bad IWE.
Excellent video
That was very informative thank you for that
I think I have the same problem with my 2019 F150
Best video I’ve seen on this
Thank you so fin much
Thank you!
Excellent explanation.
Thanks 👍 you have saved the day
I have a 2004 f150 only makes the noises while driving if i let off the gas it stops do you know what would most likely cause that i have already replaced the solenoid and both hubs
Bravo on a super helpful video.
How much vacuum should I be getting at the end of the hose by the IWE? I put my finger on it and it’s hardly anything but I don’t know if that’s normal or not
It should be a good strong vacuum. Get a mityvac and not only can you pull a vacuum, but it will measure vacuum also.
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@@737mechanic okay thank you. What would be the loss of vacuum to both iwes? Also I’ve replaced both my check valves and the vacuum control solenoid and my 4hi is still wanting to kick in while I’m driving. The last thing I can think of is my Iwes but the thing is the light only comes on when I put it in drive and immediately goes out in park and neutral.
@@alexcomella1640 First thing you have to have to troubleshoot it, is a mityvac. You need to pull a vacuum at the IWE's and make sure they hold a vacuum. If they do work your way up stream making sure the vacuum lines are not leaking. Also you will be able to check and make sure the required vacuum is making it to each IWE using the mityvac.
@@737mechanic awesome thank you I will get one and test that. Do you know around the required vacuum needed at the Iwe?
@@alexcomella1640 It doesn't take much but a minimum of around 8 or 9 Hg, with the engine running you should be getting at least 20 Hg. If you get a vacuum gauge or a mityvac you will know for sure how much vacuum you have at the different areas of the system. If you have an engine with turbo's you probably have a mechanical vacuum pump and they do go bad so you need to know how much vacuum you have with the engine running.
You pulled the line from the check valve when the truck was off should I start the truck turn it off and quickly try that way I know there should be vaccume in it ?
Yes, it should hold vacuum if everything is tight.
Well explained 👍🏽
I took off the vacuum line from the main one and hear vacuum as soon as I disconnected it does it mean I have a bad check valve or something else
Depending on which vacuum line you disconnected it could be a check valve.
Thank you it was a check valve
What is the purpose of the line to the right of the check valve? That one broke down at the t-fitting and tends to hiss
Mine was the check valve
So ive done, IWE both sides, check valve, iwe solenoid, and vacuum lines. And I still have the axle on the bright side not free from the wheel
If you pull a vacuum manually using a mityvac does the wheel disengage?
@@737mechanic should i pull it from the right side by the wheel or up top by the valve
@@Rnitzsche04 I would start at the valve and make sure it releases the hub, if it does hook the hose back up and pull it from the valve and see how that goes. Also note that it should hold a vacuum, so whether you pull the vacuum at the wheel or at the valve if it bleeds off then something is leaking.
Having this issue on a 2015 F-150 I bought a week ago. It is a blue certified used vehicle. This grinding noise happened intermittently on day 3 of ownership. I took it back to the dealership (Apple Ford, Columbia Maryland) and they had it all day. Two people test drove it and never heard or felt the issue. So they did nothing. I showed them a video recording of it happening and they said they have to witness it themselves before they will replace it. This is clearly the issue!! I have never been so frustrated in my life with a vehicle I just got. I can't afford to keep leaving it there for them to test drive it and it never happening for them. I plan to call Ford directly on Monday. Anyone else have any suggestions on how to get them to fix it? I shouldn't have to pay out of pocket to fix a certified vehicle I just bought!!
Great video! Thank you!
Did any codes on your dash pop up when something was going on with it
No
Do you have to reprogram the solenoid
No
My 2020 does it intermittently. How do I determine the culprit since it’s intermittent?
First thing is to check and make sure the vacuum system is tight, do that with a hand held vacuum pump. What you will probably find is a small leak.
@@737mechanic thanks. I’ll give it a shot. Also, mine only tends to do it when slowing down to make a turn or stop. I never notice it at speed or after initial acceleration. Does that indicate anything specific to you?
Mine makes a noise on low rpm i replaced the check valve and the solenoid still makes noise when i release the hose when off doesnt store air is that normal
Also... water can get in those lines
What model scanner do you have and would you recommend it? Thanks in advance.
I have the Autel and yes I would recommend it.
amzn.to/2R6Ar4R
Should the half shaft turn AT ALL when there is vacuum applied?
No.
My rear right is trying to engage when turning right or backing up. By releasing the vacuum lines and putting them back on it stopped doing it at least for my trip home. Trying to figure out what's the issue. I had vacuum can't find a hole yet. Hoping it's cheap and easy not a hub
Get some jack stands under there! 😮
Yea, if I am going to actually be under the vehicle I always use jack stands but sometimes if I just need to jack it up and do something that doesn't require me to be under the vehicle I don't always use jack stands even though I know it is best to do so.
@@737mechanic "When you least expect it, expect it!" My motto 😬
I have a 17. Noise started yesterday. Has vacuum at all 3 points. Neither wheel is engaged (unless I call for 4x4). When I put it in 4x4, the noise stops instantly. Turning left makes the noise worse. Only thing left is the solenoid but I don’t think that’s the issue either. Any ideas?
same. let me know if you figure that out
You guys figure this out? I have the same issue.
Thank you!!!!!!!!!! 💯
I have one question , if the vacuum is the problem and not the iwe is good then if disengaging vacuum both wheels should be engaged right ?
Both of my CV are connected when my vehicle is off, ones I turn It on only the drivers one disconnects and like 20 seconds after I turn my vehicle back off I can hear air scaping from somewhere near the vacuum reservoir, is it normal?
Greetings People. I Have The Same Problem With Ford F-150 XLT 2012 5.0 L. It Was Missing A Linen. What Goes From One Place To The Other. I Know What To Do?
Im having issues with vacuum. Driver side vacuum is strong and passenger side is weak. Is that normal? I did pull a vacuum on the hoses and the vacuum did hold. Actuators are good too. Oh one other thing, i have crazy vibration on passenger side when going 50mph. All new suspension passenger cv axle new and my 4x4 stopped working a few months ago.
If it is a EcoBoost engine, make sure the mechanical vacuum pump is pulling at least 16inHg at the IWE's
i need the vacum line part number for the line that its above the check valve for a 2011 ford ecoboost 3.5 engine thanks ????
I’m getting a grinding/rumble strip feeling when I engage 4wd. When I switch it back to 2wd it goes away and truck feels like normal . Could I possibly have a bad iwe.
Yup, but first check everything else because the solenoid, vacuum hoses, or check valve can also be bad.
@@737mechanic thanks I checked and vacuum is good to both iwe and no grinding when in 2wd and in 4wd there is no vacuum which leads me to believe an iwe is broken or not fully engaging.
@@eljefedejefes7469 Most likely you are right.
Is it normal for vacuum solenoid leak air with in minutes after turning off engine?
No, if the system is tight it will hold the vacuum for a while after shutting the engine off.
What if there was no vacuum when you pulled off the second hose? That means it’s the reservoir?
If there is no vacuum you need to see if when the truck is running it is suppling vacuum if it is you need to figure out what is leaking. The easiest way to do that is to purchase a handheld vacuum pump so you can supply a vacuum and measure and see what vacuum you actually have.
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Yeah, going great till you hooked a computer scan up punching the screen
Got the same truck but a 14. I've got a humming noise like a wheel bearing. But when I put it in 4wd the noise goes away.. Any ideas? Thanks
It could be the IWE, check valve, solenoid, or vacuum leak.
737mechanic thanks, gonna replace the solenoid and Check valve
What could it be if you replaced both iwes, the entire vacuum line, the check valve, and the solenoid? I found the vac line broke the rattle would never stop. To now it is intermittent and will only happen to where it only rattles 1-2 times during a ride. its stops when I let off the gas and or if switched to 4 wheel drive.
I would use a hand vacuum pump/gauge and check to see how much vacuum you have at the IWE with the engine running and then shut the engine off and see if it maintains the vacuum for at least a few minutes. If the vacuum is either weak or it falls off quickly after the engine is shut off then it is a vacuum problem. If you have one of the Ecoboost engines they have a mechanical vacuum pump that will start getting weak over time.
Thank you for the response. It is a 2016 3.5 eco boost. I’ll invest in a pump and gauge this week. When I pull the vacuum line off the check valve up at the engine (while it’s running) it seems pretty strong. Down at the actuators it’s noticeably weaker but does suck. That would be normal correct? Thank you again. This issue has been beating me in the crotch.
@@davidalbert1006
It should be strong as the IWE too. There should be a good solid 18 to 21 inHg at the IWE.
This pump works good and works as both a vacuum gauge for checking vacuum and a vacuum pump.
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Sometimes I hear a grinding noise accelerating up a hill. Think this could be the 4wd system?
Very well could be.
@@737mechanic preciate it I’ll check it out next weekend using this video
If I replaced the IWE about 8 months ago do they go bad? I hear a grinding noise now. Could it be the solenoid?
I was told my 2013 Ford F150 Lariat has full time all wheel drive. The dealer wouldn't confirm that but I found it on a Ford forum. I thought my 4x4 problems were fixed (after six trips to the dealer) until I put my truck in 4x4. I ended up unplugging the solenoid to fix my intermittent grinding noise. Too frustrated to deal with it.
If you have a knob that allows you to switch between 4x4 and 2x4 then you do not have full time 4x4.
@@737mechanic I put a kodak cube video camera under my truck to watch the front driveshaft and CV shafts. They spin all the time regardless of 4x2 or 4x4 A. Worst design ever for 4x4. It was simple when you got out of the truck and turned the knob at each wheel.
@@edorofish It takes vacuum to disengage the 4x4, in other words when the truck is sitting with the engine off the vacuum will eventually bleed off and the 4x4 will be engaged, when you start the truck it pulls a vacuum and disengages the 4x4 and it should be in 4x2. If the axles are turning that means there is a vacuum loss somewhere in the system.
@@737mechanic I wish it were that simple. Ive tested the vacuum lines and the dealer tested for leaks. No bueno. I've had both IWEs replaced, solenoid replaced (3x), check valve replaced (3x), and the dealer replaced my axle housing assembly minus the CV axles. It was working fine until I used the 4x4 last week. I'm going to look for an off-road 4x4 shop that probably know these systems better than a dealer.
@@edorofish After hearing all that it might not be the vacuum system at all, so maybe the IWe's are working fine and the transfer case is engaged when it shouldn't be. If you lift the front wheels off the ground and start the engine with the selector in 4x2 and spin the wheels the axles should NOT turn if they don't the IWE's are working fine and they are disengaging the hubs but maybe even though the selector knob is in 4x2 the transfer case may be stuck in 4x4 so when you are driving the transfer case is driving the axles even though the hubs are disengaged. I hope that all made sense.
Did this. Replaced it with new and it is fine in 4wd but will not disengage. Any thoughts?