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This video saved me many and I mean many of dollars. I just replaced my whole front end and I ended up with a noise on the passenger side. Come to find out once i got on the highway the rim on the drivers side had cut thru the hose that went to the actuator. I was just to the point of taking the axle out and starting over until I saw your video. Thank you very much!!!!
Appreciate it! Picked up a vacuum gauge from harbor freight, tested my system and came down to the right front actuator. When I tore it down the actuator was cracked and came apart in two pieces. Replaced it and no issues.👍 again awesome video! Thanks.
Thanks for the lessons. I was wondering how that worked. A lot of Hard Liners call these aluminum actuators junk. I had one instance with mine (2003 Expedition ) driving across Missouri trailering a 67 Ford Fairlane. It was 90+ degrees F. and I never had been one to drive the speed limit. All of a sudden it sounded like the front of the drive train exploded. I stopped for a few minutes to evaluate the situation, never finding anything wrong. Later when I returned to Ohio I hashed it out with my FMC mechanic, next door neighbor. He said that condensate or moisture probably got hot enough to pull an actuator engagement without a vacuum presence. We pulled the lines and tested them, blew them out. It has never done it again but I guarantee it will scare the crap out of one if it should occur with them !
If you feel like this video helped out, feel free to support the channel by donating. Just one click away on the link below, to help support the channel :) www.paypal.me/ozmechanics
Great video and I’m sorry to bother but I have a clunking noise when I’m in 4x4 as I’m moving it clunks... and stops than clunks again as if it’s on the same spot as the wheel turns. Know what it could be ? And thanks
Came here looking for possible reason why my 4wd was not working on one wheel. Thank you, after watching your explanation I will check for possible vacuum or hose problems. How did I find out my 4wd wasnt working? By going on the soft sand at the beach and having to dig my way out as the tide was coming in what seemed like a whole lot quicker than normal. Six hrs of shovel in one hand, torch in the other, bits of wood scavenged around, forward reverse foward reverse inching my way outta there. Wanted to get rid of my ute right there, letting me down like that. My arms and legs really felt it the next couple days. Moral is check 4wd all go before you need it.
Great video. Just had my actuator and CV axle replaced and now a nasty grinding noise has started. So, we changed the wheel hub thinking it was the wheel bearing. Well, that was not it and the grinding still persists. When in 4wd, no grinding. So, I replaced the solenoid behind the battery. Still grinding noise. I think there is a leak in the vacuum line. Hopefully I can find it!
Dude great video , my 17 3.5 f150 has been making grinding/rock in wheel noises for a couple weeks now , I’m convinced this is the issue and we’ll be in the shop this week!
I had this issue on my 2013 f150. Passenger side IWE does not disengage. Vacuum signal seems to be ok. Although I have no way to accurately test it, However testing it with the tip of my finger it feels pretty much the same as drivers side, which disengages ok, I thought of a faulty IWE, Replaced it and still is not dissngeaging. Any suggestion of what could be going wrong.
It just needs to create a vacuum in a relatively small chamber. Would be nice if they fail safe into 2wd. My 2001 doe snot have this. Pretty clever though
Holy crap a mechanic that actually knows what the hell hes talking about???? 😳😳it almost doesn’t exist anymore or at least here in fla! Buddy if your seeing this message I’ll fly you to fla to fix my vehicles just message me back!!!!!
Thx. I have replaced the vac line from solenoid to actuators, same problem, replaced actuators, same problem, replaced solenoid and problem seems intermittent now. Im gonna check each acuator as youve shown, maybe I have a bad one, they came from dealer though. Thoughts?
My 4WD is not engaging. When I start the truck and cycle the switch I can feel the vacuum is getting to the actuator but it does not seem to be the same on both sides. Maybe a partially plugged line? So I purchased a test kit to check that the vacuum. Do you know what it should be? I suspect one of my actuators it not working. I would guess if only one was working it would be the same as not having 4WD? I also bought a vacuum pump so I can test each actuator following your steps. I think between the two tests I should be able to narrow it down. It does not seem to me then solenoid is the issue based on the symptoms. If only one actuator is bad is there any reason to change them both In YO? Great video. I should be able to figure it out now.
I had a vacume line rubbed through on the tire . Then filled with mud . Plugged line right up .. the little black and white mushroom looking thing by selanoid was plugged .. i ran a long line from selaniod to hub . Lines were plugged .
Ok so would this work if I turn my truck on. Leave it in park. Jack it up and turn the hub. If it doesn’t move than the vacuum and everything is working. And if it does than clearly is there is a problem correct!? And leaving it in 2H of course
Great Video! I have a 2003 ford expedition 5.4l 4X4. I found a free floating line on the driver side just under the brake cylinder, Track said line back to the 4WD vacuum actuator. two lines go in to thet actuator. One runs to the solenoid (the one that you are pulling vacuum on in video). Is the other line (the free floater) a vent line? or should it hook to something. thanks mike
Great video bud. Glad somebody has knowledge to share. Really appreciate the video. I’ve been having trouble diagnosing trouble with my Explorer. Pretty cool how it works in all.
Hello. What do you think about this. Really need your help , thoughts and suggestions. I had my 2010 Ford F150 worked in by Kinsel Ford dealership for non-related 4x4 front end work. About 8 months later I took my truck to my personal mechanic who is also our County Mechanic so that he could change the Front upper and lower A arms which included the u joints. Now here it starts. I was with him while he worked on my truck and he told me that my front driver side 4x4 vacuum hoses where missing. We checked the other side and they were still there securely clamped. Which means Kinsel Ford took them off and for got to put them on. My mechanic just put on a vacuum hose he had in his shop. Well I started to hear grinding on the Driver side. It was the driver side actuator now going bad. I disconnected the driver side vacuum hoses and the noise stopped. after a couple months the Passenger side which did have the factory hoses still on, started to grind like the driver side. Well the actuator went bad there too. I don't know why or how becuase original hoses were connected. Are they Linked, could that be why? Well I took truck to a 4x4 shop and he replaced both driver side and passenger side actuators, and connected a vacuum hose. It no longer makes the grinding noises. How can I test the front wheel drive (4x4) to see of it works. I tried it out in small muddy spot and my wife did see the front passenger tire spin. but not the front driver side. An on another day I got stuck in the same spot due to it just rained. Both Front and left and right tires did not spin while in 4 low or 4 high. Only both back tires. Is that normal? I dont have locking differentials, just 4x4. Your serious thoughts would be helpful. I have detailed the events as accurate as possible without leaving anything out. Thanks.
Hey guy I don't know why the guy from oz didn't answer you yet but if I may I'll tell you how to check the front wheels to see if the front wheels are engaged ok, now jack your truck up at the front and if the wheel is free it's not on 4wheel the wheels shouldn't be free so try that and I hope that help if you didn't fix it as yet ok
I have this problem right now where my iwe isnt working and its causimg a grinding noise. I didnt know what it was at first, I thought it was the bearing, but now I'm pretty sure its this. Thank you 👍
The actuator turns when 4x4 is engaged but the tire and wheel does not turn with the actuator and front axle. I beleive front axle is the right word. Why wont it turn. Its a new actuator aswell. I checked the solenoid which is the last suction part underhood u showed us. It is sucking and working. Do I still have a vacuum problem or a bad transfercase motor?
Harvey Ibarra look sorry I haven’t responded to your message. I’m really busy here at work running my shop and trying to balance making videos and edit and life. I just had some time today to look at some messages.
The worst 4wd engagement system ever . Why put vulnerable parts on each wheel that are exposed to frequent mechanical failure and damage if any part of the vacuum system develops a fault. Redesign needed.
I changed out my actuators, solenoid and check valve on 2014 xlt f150. Problem is I'm still getting a grinding noise when in 4wd but only when I accelerate above 1500rpm, how fast I'm going doesn't seem to be an issue. No grinding noise when in 2wd so I know the vacuum system is ok. What should I check next. Wish i Would've found this video before I changed everything out could've saved alot of time and money.
I have an 04 Ford F150 and when I had to truck jacked up and in 4x4 HI the driver's side wheel turns with the axle but the passenger side does not. Would it be that the actuator is bad on the passenger side?
Hey man any advice on why my vacuum line is only sucking air on the passenger side and not the drivers side? I replaced the lines thinking there was a clog but still no suction on drivers side hub
I have a 2015 and busted the clip from the harness to the solenoid too. Thought it was funny that 10 years go by and shit still breaks in the same spots.
Hi, I have 2004 f-150. Why would be the reason when I put the switch to 4h, the light comes on for a second and goes off. But if I put 4low the light comes on and stays on ?
When you put the screw in the tubes that were attached to the solenoid, did you put a screw in both tubes or just the top tube or bottom tube ? Thank you
When there's no more vacuum in the actuator where does the pressure go to release is it the second little tube coming out of the actuator the small line mine seems a little lazy when I shut it off when it's jacked up I spent it in the tire click and then finally it grabs like there's wherever the vacuum goes back to release is clogged or something
My 2008 is still doing it. Good vacuum and i replaced the 4x4 module solenoid. Still grinding in 2wheel on my front left side in low idol. Any other ideas? Thanks for vid
Could be a warped rotor, a bad hub assembly, or a chewed up axle shaft. Also if your vaccum was bad for any reason and that diaphragm wasn't engaging properly it may have eaten up those teeth. I'm not a certified mechanic but those would be what I looked at first. Also if you dont have that vacuum pump you can raise the front of the vehicle, rotate the hub to see if the axle spins, then start it up and rotate again to see if the vaccum is doing its job. If you have a small leak somewhere it might be that the vaccum isnt strong enough until you build some rpms at speed so the problem only exists at idle to say 20mph or something like that. God luck man, hope you solve it
Thanks so much man for a great vid that will help me in figuring out my no 4x prob on my 150/ Dash lights for 4wd NOT working currently; NOT connected to this vacuum failure issue at all, right?
I have a mitsubishi nativa 2007 diesel and when i riding in normal mode no 4x4 its make some grinding noise and when i stop it cliks like it went to his place back, do think is the selenoid? I have no idea where to look or how it looks like
Good video. But my 2007 F150, it looks like different. When I disconnect the hose from actuator and check actuator by using vacuum meter. I found it couldn't hold pressure. That means actuator leaks. So as video shows, it is not vacuum condition. the truck should be 4x4 all the time. But I didn't feel since truck couldn't be controlled on snow road. Anybody know what is going on?
Mine is not engaging.but also in the dashboard i don't c the light when i turn the switch on 4x4. It coul be the transfer case motor.do someone knows how to test a transfer case motor?
My freind i just buy it f150 2005 today i test the 4x4 ligth turn on dashboard 4hi i no got 4low stay in 4hi also i turn the swicht to 2wd still engage on 4x4 i can feel on the steering wheel How can desengage the 4x4 i was thinking in take the vacum line off to see what happening thanks Please can you help to see what is the problem also thanks for the video very nice very precise thanks
Hey bro nice video but why haven't you answer some of your subscribes you are a great guy you should make your ppl happy also keep it up but try responding to everyone good luck
So is that why my 2010 is making a ratchet sound? When I engage the 4x4 it make loud banging sounds and now today since I changed the breaks it's been making the ratchet/ grinding / clunking sound almost all the time in 2x4
@@briankillya I brought it to my mechanic, he didn't give me a clear answer of what was wrong I just told him to make it work as beat possible and that I don't need the 4x4 because I don't use it. It's just one of my maintenance trucks for work. . But it he did mention I also have noise in the transfer case.
the fastest way... mark a spot on the shaft with a paint pen. turn the truck on and drive 1 foot. did the mark move? yes, your in 4x4. no, your in 2x4.... takes longer to find the paint pen than preforming this test. however, you won't be able to tell if there's a small leak. just be aware of that...
You know what i found out was that when we put suspension back on and the screw that go on top to tighten it grabbed a vacuum hose and punched a hole in it damm so i mickey moused it till Wednesday
my 2006 is having 4x4 issues too. i already replaced one maybe both the actuators several yrs ago about 10,000 km ago. its mostly a winter/hunting truck so i only put about 10,000 km in 5 yrs on it. i recently drove through some deepwater after heavy rain, 2 days later out of the blue, once you get going 20 km/hr or more the 4x4 makes grinding /buzzing sound in 2x4. in 4x4 that sound goes away but theres intermitant loud clunking under acceleration i check for vacum just with my fingers and theres definitely some vacum both sides at the actuators and that vacum goes away when switched to 4x4 So does this sound like an actuator is gone? i also noticed one boot is worn out , would water getting in there somehow affect the actuators? it should be seperated physically as i understand this system?
@@brandonpanduro3839 yes i did. It's typically the vacuum lines or more likely the hub itself. I made a video about it. Basically you hook up a vaccuum guague and test to see if to hold a vaccuum. Mine was confusing because both hubs were so bad that neither side held a vaccuum so i was confused but replaced the lines and the hubs. The lines were hard to find but i found them online
I guess my question is, if I'm able to put it in 4WD that means no vacuum, Ive replaced my solenoid and still have the issue of grinding at certain speeds, I'm assuming actuator is still good and I'm losing vacuum from a hose or the source? The source being what?
It’s possible the actuator has water in in from the poor solenoid design that is preventing good vacuum to disengage 4x4. Just a thought. Having similar issue intermittently and am going to swap the solenoid and valve and hope for the best.
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Keep up the great work! Love how you show how the 4x4 engages and disengages. Never realized it was something so simple. Thank you
This video saved me many and I mean many of dollars. I just replaced my whole front end and I ended up with a noise on the passenger side. Come to find out once i got on the highway the rim on the drivers side had cut thru the hose that went to the actuator. I was just to the point of taking the axle out and starting over until I saw your video. Thank you very much!!!!
Appreciate it! Picked up a vacuum gauge from harbor freight, tested my system and came down to the right front actuator. When I tore it down the actuator was cracked and came apart in two pieces.
Replaced it and no issues.👍 again awesome video! Thanks.
No problem glad this video helped out.
Thanks for the lessons. I was wondering how that worked. A lot of Hard Liners call these aluminum actuators junk. I had one instance with mine (2003 Expedition ) driving across Missouri trailering a 67 Ford Fairlane. It was 90+ degrees F. and I never had been one to drive the speed limit. All of a sudden it sounded like the front of the drive train exploded. I stopped for a few minutes to evaluate the situation, never finding anything wrong. Later when I returned to Ohio I hashed it out with my FMC mechanic, next door neighbor. He said that condensate or moisture probably got hot enough to pull an actuator engagement without a vacuum presence. We pulled the lines and tested them, blew them out. It has never done it again but I guarantee it will scare the crap out of one if it should occur with them !
Agree this is the worst design ever for 4x4
Excellent explanation of system with great visuals Concise and to the point. Wish all diys videos were this way.
Thanks for the simple but thorough video. This is just what I needed to see.
I wish they were all still manual engage.
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Great video and I’m sorry to bother but I have a clunking noise when I’m in 4x4 as I’m moving it clunks... and stops than clunks again as if it’s on the same spot as the wheel turns. Know what it could be ? And thanks
My 4x4 is intermittent, but this video is actually a great help. Thanks brother.
Came here looking for possible reason why my 4wd was not working on one wheel. Thank you, after watching your explanation I will check for possible vacuum or hose problems. How did I find out my 4wd wasnt working? By going on the soft sand at the beach and having to dig my way out as the tide was coming in what seemed like a whole lot quicker than normal. Six hrs of shovel in one hand, torch in the other, bits of wood scavenged around, forward reverse foward reverse inching my way outta there. Wanted to get rid of my ute right there, letting me down like that. My arms and legs really felt it the next couple days. Moral is check 4wd all go before you need it.
Basic simple and straight to the point. My guy.
Great video. Just had my actuator and CV axle replaced and now a nasty grinding noise has started. So, we changed the wheel hub thinking it was the wheel bearing. Well, that was not it and the grinding still persists. When in 4wd, no grinding. So, I replaced the solenoid behind the battery. Still grinding noise. I think there is a leak in the vacuum line. Hopefully I can find it!
Dude great video , my 17 3.5 f150 has been making grinding/rock in wheel noises for a couple weeks now , I’m convinced this is the issue and we’ll be in the shop this week!
You got it fixed?
Very informative, I learnt something new today. Keep up the good work.
@@sailorsanjoy thanks for watching
I had this issue on my 2013 f150. Passenger side IWE does not disengage. Vacuum signal seems to be ok. Although I have no way to accurately test it, However testing it with the tip of my finger it feels pretty much the same as drivers side, which disengages ok, I thought of a faulty IWE, Replaced it and still is not dissngeaging. Any suggestion of what could be going wrong.
Such an awesome video, thanks!
I can't believe that chinsey little actuator is strong enough to power the truck in 4 wheel drive.
707SonomaComa thank you. Yea one powerful lil thing
It just needs to create a vacuum in a relatively small chamber. Would be nice if they fail safe into 2wd. My 2001 doe snot have this. Pretty clever though
Holy crap a mechanic that actually knows what the hell hes talking about???? 😳😳it almost doesn’t exist anymore or at least here in fla! Buddy if your seeing this message I’ll fly you to fla to fix my vehicles just message me back!!!!!
Derek Smith thanks man. But they are out there. I know a good amount of really good techs around the us. Thanks for watching
Can I delete the vacuum system and do a manual hub?
Great video, I am having issues with my expedition 4 wd and these are some great points to get me started diagnosing
I have another video that explains each component in detail
Thx. I have replaced the vac line from solenoid to actuators, same problem, replaced actuators, same problem, replaced solenoid and problem seems intermittent now. Im gonna check each acuator as youve shown, maybe I have a bad one, they came from dealer though. Thoughts?
Awesome. Thank u. I need to figure out why my 4x4 not engaging. The transfer case motor not switching.
My 4WD is not engaging. When I start the truck and cycle the switch I can feel the vacuum is getting to the actuator but it does not seem to be the same on both sides. Maybe a partially plugged line? So I purchased a test kit to check that the vacuum. Do you know what it should be? I suspect one of my actuators it not working. I would guess if only one was working it would be the same as not having 4WD? I also bought a vacuum pump so I can test each actuator following your steps. I think between the two tests I should be able to narrow it down. It does not seem to me then solenoid is the issue based on the symptoms. If only one actuator is bad is there any reason to change them both In YO? Great video. I should be able to figure it out now.
you are one hell of a mechanic man
Thanks. I just put out a new video that just came out yesterday more in depth on the 4x4
So does this mean, every time you turn off your truck it goes into 4x4 since the pressure or vacuum will dissipate?
I checked all my vacuum just like you did. It's all good but the actuators still grind, there is also a weird noise coming from the front diff!
3 yrs late but I would replace the solenoid
Gracias, I did not know there was a hub actuator, only under the cabin... on the right side for Terracan.. THX
Save me $200 in diagnostic charges from the Ford dealership. Thanks for the detailed troubleshooting video on the Ford IWE 4X4 system.
Awesome and two the point explanation and testing! Thank you!
Thanks for watching Michael. I actually made a newer video that explains every part on the 4x4 system to the T !
Excellent video!
what happens if you disconnect the vacuum hose from the solenoid and left the actuators engaged with the hubs permanently?
your cvc axles will turn with the wheel all the time causing you more vibration and less gas mileage.
@@aaronhorsman1396 So it would be like installing those IWE eliminators?b
Great question I was wondering also if it would cause any damage
I had a vacume line rubbed through on the tire . Then filled with mud . Plugged line right up .. the little black and white mushroom looking thing by selanoid was plugged .. i ran a long line from selaniod to hub . Lines were plugged .
j'ai gagnée ma vie en pratiquent de la mécanique(50 ans), et je recommencerais,le plus beau métier.
Great video and explaining how it works. Thank you so much.
I have another with more information
Ok so would this work if I turn my truck on. Leave it in park. Jack it up and turn the hub. If it doesn’t move than the vacuum and everything is working. And if it does than clearly is there is a problem correct!? And leaving it in 2H of course
Great Video! I have a 2003 ford expedition 5.4l 4X4. I found a free floating line on the driver side just under the brake cylinder, Track said line back to the 4WD vacuum actuator. two lines go in to thet actuator. One runs to the solenoid (the one that you are pulling vacuum on in video). Is the other line (the free floater) a vent line? or should it hook to something. thanks mike
Great video bud. Glad somebody has knowledge to share. Really appreciate the video. I’ve been having trouble diagnosing trouble with my Explorer. Pretty cool how it works in all.
Hello. What do you think about this. Really need your help , thoughts and suggestions. I had my 2010 Ford F150 worked in by Kinsel Ford dealership for non-related 4x4 front end work. About 8 months later I took my truck to my personal mechanic who is also our County Mechanic so that he could change the Front upper and lower A arms which included the u joints. Now here it starts. I was with him while he worked on my truck and he told me that my front driver side 4x4 vacuum hoses where missing. We checked the other side and they were still there securely clamped. Which means Kinsel Ford took them off and for got to put them on. My mechanic just put on a vacuum hose he had in his shop. Well I started to hear grinding on the Driver side. It was the driver side actuator now going bad. I disconnected the driver side vacuum hoses and the noise stopped. after a couple months the Passenger side which did have the factory hoses still on, started to grind like the driver side. Well the actuator went bad there too. I don't know why or how becuase original hoses were connected. Are they Linked, could that be why? Well I took truck to a 4x4 shop and he replaced both driver side and passenger side actuators, and connected a vacuum hose. It no longer makes the grinding noises. How can I test the front wheel drive (4x4) to see of it works. I tried it out in small muddy spot and my wife did see the front passenger tire spin. but not the front driver side. An on another day I got stuck in the same spot due to it just rained. Both Front and left and right tires did not spin while in 4 low or 4 high. Only both back tires. Is that normal? I dont have locking differentials, just 4x4. Your serious thoughts would be helpful. I have detailed the events as accurate as possible without leaving anything out. Thanks.
Hey guy I don't know why the guy from oz didn't answer you yet but if I may I'll tell you how to check the front wheels to see if the front wheels are engaged ok, now jack your truck up at the front and if the wheel is free it's not on 4wheel the wheels shouldn't be free so try that and I hope that help if you didn't fix it as yet ok
I have this problem right now where my iwe isnt working and its causimg a grinding noise. I didnt know what it was at first, I thought it was the bearing, but now I'm pretty sure its this. Thank you 👍
logan watson yea let me know if this is the problem on your vehicle. Don’t forget to subscribe and hit the notification bell
Ppl
Moomoomoo[
The actuator turns when 4x4 is engaged but the tire and wheel does not turn with the actuator and front axle. I beleive front axle is the right word. Why wont it turn. Its a new actuator aswell. I checked the solenoid which is the last suction part underhood u showed us. It is sucking and working. Do I still have a vacuum problem or a bad transfercase motor?
Harvey Ibarra look sorry I haven’t responded to your message. I’m really busy here at work running my shop and trying to balance making videos and edit and life. I just had some time today to look at some messages.
The worst 4wd engagement system ever . Why put vulnerable parts on each wheel that are exposed to frequent mechanical failure and damage if any part of the vacuum system develops a fault. Redesign needed.
You right bro those ppl that design those things don't fix vehicles so they have no clue that's dumb
great system
I changed out my actuators, solenoid and check valve on 2014 xlt f150. Problem is I'm still getting a grinding noise when in 4wd but only when I accelerate above 1500rpm, how fast I'm going doesn't seem to be an issue. No grinding noise when in 2wd so I know the vacuum system is ok. What should I check next. Wish i Would've found this video before I changed everything out could've saved alot of time and money.
I have an 04 Ford F150 and when I had to truck jacked up and in 4x4 HI the driver's side wheel turns with the axle but the passenger side does not. Would it be that the actuator is bad on the passenger side?
Seems to me that the truck should be stopped before engaging/disengaging 4x4? Maybe, I have been doing damage to mine. Mine not currently working.
Hey man any advice on why my vacuum line is only sucking air on the passenger side and not the drivers side? I replaced the lines thinking there was a clog but still no suction on drivers side hub
3:44 I connected the vacuum like that but it doesnt hold any air, does that mean i have to replace all the lines?
I have a 2015 and busted the clip from the harness to the solenoid too. Thought it was funny that 10 years go by and shit still breaks in the same spots.
Thanks for a great demonstration
Life saver. Beautiful thorough work. Thank you sir.
Adonis Muminovic well thank you for watching. Makes me feel good knowing you like this video
Can you ruin your transfer case if one of the hoses comes off the hub bearing assembly?
Great showmanship
Many thanks for the clarification,
How can I test the hoses without air pump.
get an air pump
What’s the name of the tool you are using? I’m pretty sure I have vacuum leak in my 4wd system.
Thanks
Hi, I have 2004 f-150. Why would be the reason when I put the switch to 4h, the light comes on for a second and goes off. But if I put 4low the light comes on and stays on ?
Same problem on my 2004 f150. Very informative. Thank you!
When you put the screw in the tubes that were attached to the solenoid, did you put a screw in both tubes or just the top tube or bottom tube ?
Thank you
Just the bigger hole.. smaller hole is just ventilation
When there's no more vacuum in the actuator where does the pressure go to release is it the second little tube coming out of the actuator the small line mine seems a little lazy when I shut it off when it's jacked up I spent it in the tire click and then finally it grabs like there's wherever the vacuum goes back to release is clogged or something
So if it's not in 4wd the power doesn't go to the wheels but the axles keep rotating?
A tiny inline check valve fails a lot also. It's in vacuum line on passenger side engine compartment
Yep just dealt with one not too long ago
My 2008 is still doing it. Good vacuum and i replaced the 4x4 module solenoid. Still grinding in 2wheel on my front left side in low idol. Any other ideas? Thanks for vid
Could be a warped rotor, a bad hub assembly, or a chewed up axle shaft. Also if your vaccum was bad for any reason and that diaphragm wasn't engaging properly it may have eaten up those teeth.
I'm not a certified mechanic but those would be what I looked at first. Also if you dont have that vacuum pump you can raise the front of the vehicle, rotate the hub to see if the axle spins, then start it up and rotate again to see if the vaccum is doing its job. If you have a small leak somewhere it might be that the vaccum isnt strong enough until you build some rpms at speed so the problem only exists at idle to say 20mph or something like that.
God luck man, hope you solve it
What if It struggles to engage in 4x4 but if you can get it to it revs up and clunks?
A lot easier than my 3/4 ton Excursion hubs to work on.
Can these be operated on the move accidentally or intentionally ?
Thanks so much man for a great vid that will help me in figuring out my no 4x prob on my 150/ Dash lights for 4wd NOT working currently; NOT connected to this vacuum failure issue at all, right?
I have a mitsubishi nativa 2007 diesel and when i riding in normal mode no 4x4 its make some grinding noise and when i stop it cliks like it went to his place back, do think is the selenoid? I have no idea where to look or how it looks like
Does it suck or blow air?
Wher can I get the pump ,,and does it have a name or is it just called a vacume pump for testing vacume?
Great video thanks Peter
Thanks for watching. I also have another video showing more in depth on this system
Good video. But my 2007 F150, it looks like different. When I disconnect the hose from actuator and check actuator by using vacuum meter. I found it couldn't hold pressure. That means actuator leaks. So as video shows, it is not vacuum condition. the truck should be 4x4 all the time. But I didn't feel since truck couldn't be controlled on snow road. Anybody know what is going on?
Bro awesome video. Quick and full of info.
Julian B I’m about to put a new video that explains the system a bit better
Awesome instructional video! Subscribed.
James A Summers awesome. Glad you liked the video. Btw I put a newer video explaining all the parts in the circuit
@@OzMechanics Yes! I watched that one first, then this one after you referred to it. Both were great!
Where is the check valve at if ur was bad would it hold a vacuume
Mine is not engaging.but also in the dashboard i don't c the light when i turn the switch on 4x4. It coul be the transfer case motor.do someone knows how to test a transfer case motor?
My freind i just buy it f150 2005 today i test the 4x4 ligth turn on dashboard 4hi i no got 4low stay in 4hi also i turn the swicht to 2wd still engage on 4x4 i can feel on the steering wheel
How can desengage the 4x4 i was thinking in take the vacum line off to see what happening thanks
Please can you help to see what is the problem also thanks for the video very nice very precise thanks
Awesome info, thank you. Now I need a vacuum pump.
Mike D awesome. It’s an easy test. And don’t forget to subscribe and hit the notification bell to get info on all my new videos
Hey bro nice video but why haven't you answer some of your subscribes you are a great guy you should make your ppl happy also keep it up but try responding to everyone good luck
So what causes the humming noise if I already changed wheel hub
Great video really going to help me.
I made another video that’s more detailed the link should be on that video
When I turn on my 4x4 switch I hear it want to engage and the 4x4 light comes on for a brief second but does not stay on... No grinding. Any advice?
Check the fuses and relays
So is that why my 2010 is making a ratchet sound? When I engage the 4x4 it make loud banging sounds and now today since I changed the breaks it's been making the ratchet/ grinding / clunking sound almost all the time in 2x4
I have same issue on my 12 after replacing wheel hub. What did you find out?
@@briankillya I brought it to my mechanic, he didn't give me a clear answer of what was wrong I just told him to make it work as beat possible and that I don't need the 4x4 because I don't use it. It's just one of my maintenance trucks for work. . But it he did mention I also have noise in the transfer case.
Why is my CV shaft the bolt that sticks out of the wheel it's always loss
Does this also apply to raptor models? (2011)
i need to unlock the hubs how do i get vac to stay on till i get a motor for trasfercase
the fastest way... mark a spot on the shaft with a paint pen. turn the truck on and drive 1 foot. did the mark move? yes, your in 4x4. no, your in 2x4.... takes longer to find the paint pen than preforming this test. however, you won't be able to tell if there's a small leak. just be aware of that...
Awesome tip
Great video! Thankyou!
Very helpful my friend. Thanks
Ok I'm missing something with my engine running I have vacuum to my act. When I turn my wheel the shaft from my wheel still turns . why or should it ?
Only if you have shifted to 4 wheel drive, otherwise you have a leak.
So when im in 2 wheel drive and here the grinding noise but when i put it in 4 wheel drive no more noise will that be the problem?
Thanks
Luis Jimenez I just did one 2 weeks ago with that issue you’re having. The 4x4 actuator was a scrapping
You know what i found out was that when we put suspension back on and the screw that go on top to tighten it grabbed a vacuum hose and punched a hole in it damm so i mickey moused it till Wednesday
new wheel actuator. and transfer case actuator. what could it be?
Hey there eric. Check out this video, it goes into depth. Hope this helps out
ruclips.net/video/6boYC9xAbZE/видео.html
Very informative
Thanks for watching Kevin. Feel free to check out my other video going deeper into how the system works. Look up oz mechanics 4 wheel drive
my 2006 is having 4x4 issues too.
i already replaced one maybe both the actuators several yrs ago about 10,000 km ago. its mostly a winter/hunting truck so i only put about 10,000 km in 5 yrs on it.
i recently drove through some deepwater after heavy rain, 2 days later out of the blue, once you get going 20 km/hr or more the 4x4 makes grinding /buzzing sound in 2x4.
in 4x4 that sound goes away but theres intermitant loud clunking under acceleration
i check for vacum just with my fingers and theres definitely some vacum both sides at the actuators and that vacum goes away when switched to 4x4
So does this sound like an actuator is gone?
i also noticed one boot is worn out , would water getting in there somehow affect the actuators? it should be seperated physically as i understand this system?
If it's in 2wd and feels like the front is trying to engage does it mean the solenoid is bad?
What did you end up figuring out? I’ve replaced my check valve and solenoid
@@brandonpanduro3839 yes i did. It's typically the vacuum lines or more likely the hub itself. I made a video about it. Basically you hook up a vaccuum guague and test to see if to hold a vaccuum. Mine was confusing because both hubs were so bad that neither side held a vaccuum so i was confused but replaced the lines and the hubs. The lines were hard to find but i found them online
Great info, thank you
What size hose did you use from the vacuum pump?
mark stachelski I forgot. The pump comes with various sizes
Great stuff brother!
Thanks bro, very infomative👍
2000 F-250 4x4 light won’t go on or lock in???
Where does the solenoid get its vacuum/air from?
I guess my question is, if I'm able to put it in 4WD that means no vacuum, Ive replaced my solenoid and still have the issue of grinding at certain speeds, I'm assuming actuator is still good and I'm losing vacuum from a hose or the source? The source being what?
It’s possible the actuator has water in in from the poor solenoid design that is preventing good vacuum to disengage 4x4. Just a thought. Having similar issue intermittently and am going to swap the solenoid and valve and hope for the best.
Jorge T they came out with a solenoid that had a type of roof over it. It’s a design to prevent water intrusion
Good job
Great info , Thanks
Super helpful
Great video help tons