Sue you have the best auto repair videos on RUclips. You don't skip steps. You call out the tools being used and giving us the torque specs is beyond appreciated. I even like when something doesn't go perfect it is not edited out. Another thing I love is you do it old school with hand tools instead of everything being battery powered. Thanks Sue you are the best.
+Shawn O Shea Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
As one who have done this job hundreds of times, this lady did a bang up job. Some of my employees would have been screaming for support for on this job. Whomever trained her did a fantastic job. Nice instruction Sue.
Completed a right-side IWE replacement today. Disassembling revealed that the IWE had *split in two*, with the spline gear stuck on the hub's spline and barely engaged on the CV side spline. Explains why the grinding was on right-hand turns - the weight of the CV would cause it to disengage from the stuck spline gear. Both the CV and hub splines where in perfect shape, so I avoided a far more expensive repair. The replacement tested fine during assembly and when everything was back together, let's hope it lasts longer than its predecessor. Thanks for the video, it really helped.
This was a great video. There were several other videos out there that weren't as helpful. When I found myself over my head this video helped me complete the job and it fixed my grinding sound on my 2011 FX4.
Well produced and informative video...if you're planning on replacing the hub. If you only need to replace the actuator there is a much easier way to do it. Check other videos.
Anyone doing this repair, make sure you spline the hub and shaft before tighten the spindle nut. That's good I ruined a perfectly good actuator hub doing a strut replacement. 👍🏻
Been there & done that getting in a darn big hurry. I take my time & check everything 20 times nowadays after wrenching on vehicles for 20 years. Get in a hurry & careless & cocky & it's going too hurt your pride & wallet!
+Jess M Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Good video, good job with your instructions and demonstration. Main question, the bushing on the upper A arm looks replaced after it took a beating from twisting ect during disassembly. Did you change that as well??
Not a bushing, that a grease boot on the ball joing, but yeah...should be replaced. It's part of the upper control arm if you notice in the video she did replace it.
Great vid & very detailed but I would've replaced that upper balljoint assy while I was that deep into a job like that just for good measure cause I've learned the hard way on that lesson. Great vids guys for those who want too get dirty.👍
I’m Curious, I watched another video from 1a covering the same thing but he removed the driveshaft and not the ball joint. Is one method better than the other?
Did mine without touching the brakes. Just pull the upper ball joint and the rod off. Put a zip tie to hold the stress of the knuckle off the brake line and iwe vaccume hoses, pull the braket that holds the two down off if you want, and you will have just enough clearance to remove the axle and do the job. Just be careful not to ruin the iwe lines or the brake lines.
I noticed that this video left out something that needs to be disconnected, and you can see it's disconnected in the video but the video did not go over doing it. And that's the tie rod to the steering knuckle. That has to be removed as well
My truck makes a loud grinding noise around 40-60 if I let off the throttle it goes away and a low speeds it sounds like my front passenger wheels about to fall off could this be the issue I changed the check valve and sensor
Great videos first off. Second. I had some smoke coming from the driver side front wheel and the smell of burn brakes one day. I replaced the Rotors (both sides while I was there). the driver side caliper and new brake pads on both sides, to keep everything even in wear. Still the same problem. I then replaced the wheel hub assembly. Still having the same problem. Vehicle seems to be lugging like rolling resistance. No loud humming noises or pulling one way or another. Putting into FWD does nothing. No warning lights or codes popping up. A LOT of heat being generated in a short distance (like 5 miles). 2102 F-150 110 K miles 4fx 3.5l. any help would be appreciated.
Great video. My 2008 f150 is grinding when im in lower rpm and goes away when i idol up or put it in 4x4. My question is how will i know if it is my actuator or not? I tested the lines and solenoid and all good. Thanks?
+Colin wallyboy Thank you! We do not have a way of being able to diagnose the issue that you are experiencing with your vehicle but suggest taking it to a local mechanic for a proper diagnosis.
With no vacuum on the vacuum hub, it should be locked into 4WD for the front wheels. With vacuum, it should be free wheeling. Check the vacuum hub by taking it apart and cleaning it and seeing if it moves back and forth. Add vacuum and check for leaks if you have it all the way apart. Mine did the same thing and it was faulty.
You could have a leak in your vacuum line.. I seen a post somewhere a guy sprayed water and liguid detergent down the line and found a broken connector.. easy fix
Does the humming go away when you engage 4x4? if the answer is yes, then you need to replace the vacuum hub, otherwise the problem, most likely, is your wheel hub.
Chris Hooker if you loose vacuum it will make metal grinding/clanking/popping noises. Also the axle will spin with the wheel when driving in 2wd when it’s not supposed to spin. Horrible design by ford. Also buy the dorman 600-405 vacuum delete part. It’s the OE fix and will remove the vacuum BS. It locks the axle to the hub but you still can control the 2wd/4wd as normal but never have to deal with these hub actuators going out constantly
I noticed when you torqued the bolts you clicked it twice. On an airplane you only click it one time on the torque. If you click it more,you over torqued it, then you have to back it off and torque it again to one time only.
Rumor has it you're suppose to start your truck to reset the actuator spring before you slide the axle in by connecting the vacuum line and starting the truck. Is this true??
Yes it is. My oem one I broke because I did not do this during a strut replacement while led to gaming to do the actuator hub too. I just did it this guys way and it worked fine. ruclips.net/video/zqihvBDPEZc/видео.html
+K Z Thanks for checking us out! One foot-pound is equal to 12 inch-pounds. This means that one inch-pound equals one-twelfth of a foot-pound (1/12). To convert your torque measurements of inch-pounds to foot-pounds, divide your figure by 12.
why not just take the bottom strut bolt out remove cv axl and do it that way? I just watched a video from A-1 doing that in stead of making it a die job?
I wouldn’t replace it with another.... I would do the IWE Delete with the Dorman .. yea you are running your axels all the time... but you can go into 4wheel drive using the transfer case ....
It can be done without taking it off. Or taking the wheel hub off. Also it’s a sealed unit so I’m not sure what she meant by a “seal” for the IWR to the cv axle?? You can take the new IWE and keep it in your hand, put vacuum to it and you’ll see it pull in.
About 4 minutes in maybe a little bit later than that you were taking off at 8mm out what kind of Ratchet is that. It's like a ratchet and a swivel had a baby and that was it...
This was misleading in the fact she also had to replace the upper control arm because she destroyed the ball joint. Watch how much fun it is to replace that!
+Curtis Loewen Thanks for watching! We replaced it because we were also making a video on replacing the hub assembly. You can reuse your original if it doesn't need to be replaced. 1aauto.com
Why did she replace the entire hub and bearing assembly as well. That’s completely unnecessary if it’s only your IWE vacuum hub that has failed. Are they suggesting you need to replace both in an attempt to sell you both? Hmmm, I hope not.
Wow she takes way more off than necessary!!! Wow I left the brakes on. Popped the upper control arm off the knuckle took the nut off the axle and unbolted the hub ... DONE
So you had to replace the iwe, got that. Then you replaced the upper control arm n ball joint, sure the vise grips didn't help that. The the strut, rotor, wheel hub n pads. Why all this other stuff?? Talk about running up the bill!!
Ive got a 2008 f150 and I only have 1 solenoid where this truck has two, a disengage and and engage. I would assume the one I have must be a disengage obviously, but should I have both or do the 2008s only have 1?
I wouldn’t replace it with another.... I would do the IWE Delete with the Dorman .. yea you are running your axels all the time... but you can go into 4wheel drive using the transfer case ....
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Sue you have the best auto repair videos on RUclips. You don't skip steps. You call out the tools being used and giving us the torque specs is beyond appreciated. I even like when something doesn't go perfect it is not edited out. Another thing I love is you do it old school with hand tools instead of everything being battery powered. Thanks Sue you are the best.
+Shawn O Shea Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
As one who have done this job hundreds of times, this lady did a bang up job. Some of my employees would have been screaming for support for on this job. Whomever trained her did a fantastic job. Nice instruction Sue.
+Robert Davis Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Completed a right-side IWE replacement today. Disassembling revealed that the IWE had *split in two*, with the spline gear stuck on the hub's spline and barely engaged on the CV side spline. Explains why the grinding was on right-hand turns - the weight of the CV would cause it to disengage from the stuck spline gear. Both the CV and hub splines where in perfect shape, so I avoided a far more expensive repair.
The replacement tested fine during assembly and when everything was back together, let's hope it lasts longer than its predecessor. Thanks for the video, it really helped.
Thank you Sue for your time to do this. You are a dream and very precise. Love you and keep up the GREAT job.
Great video! I appreciate the fact that you used hand tools as apposed to an air gun. 👍
Must've played with tools as a child
You replaced a few more components than just the Vacuum Hub assembly, but by doing so you showed how much easier it was to R&R the vacuum hub.
This was a great video. There were several other videos out there that weren't as helpful. When I found myself over my head this video helped me complete the job and it fixed my grinding sound on my 2011 FX4.
+Jonathan Hayes Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This lady is awesome. Very helpful with step by step instructions
+Fred Santos Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Well produced and informative video...if you're planning on replacing the hub. If you only need to replace the actuator there is a much easier way to do it. Check other videos.
Anyone doing this repair, make sure you spline the hub and shaft before tighten the spindle nut. That's good I ruined a perfectly good actuator hub doing a strut replacement. 👍🏻
Wouldn’t that be obvious?
You should have never even had to remove that
Been there & done that getting in a darn big hurry. I take my time & check everything 20 times nowadays after wrenching on vehicles for 20 years. Get in a hurry & careless & cocky & it's going too hurt your pride & wallet!
Thank you for this great video with straight forward instructions.
Fordtechmakuloco has a better way of doing it, you don't have to remove the caliper etc.
Good job , did this job bunch of times , but still go back to this video...Cheers!
+Jess M Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What an awesome video you did, thank you so much.
Good video, good job with your instructions and demonstration.
Main question, the bushing on the upper A arm looks replaced after it took a beating from twisting ect during disassembly. Did you change that as well??
Not a bushing, that a grease boot on the ball joing, but yeah...should be replaced. It's part of the upper control arm if you notice in the video she did replace it.
Great vid & very detailed but I would've replaced that upper balljoint assy while I was that deep into a job like that just for good measure cause I've learned the hard way on that lesson. Great vids guys for those who want too get dirty.👍
I believe they changed the entire A-arm with the balljoint, when re installing it looked new
I’m Curious, I watched another video from 1a covering the same thing but he removed the driveshaft and not the ball joint.
Is one method better than the other?
Thanks, 1A auto. always like your hints and tips videos and precise order links.
Best video ever...so really.. key word is try.. awesome job editing
Any grease needed to be applied to the splines before installing or putting together?
Did mine without touching the brakes.
Just pull the upper ball joint and the rod off. Put a zip tie to hold the stress of the knuckle off the brake line and iwe vaccume hoses, pull the braket that holds the two down off if you want, and you will have just enough clearance to remove the axle and do the job.
Just be careful not to ruin the iwe lines or the brake lines.
I noticed that this video left out something that needs to be disconnected, and you can see it's disconnected in the video but the video did not go over doing it. And that's the tie rod to the steering knuckle. That has to be removed as well
+Jamie Davis Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
My truck makes a loud grinding noise around 40-60 if I let off the throttle it goes away and a low speeds it sounds like my front passenger wheels about to fall off could this be the issue I changed the check valve and sensor
Very well done. Made male mechanics look sloppy. sorry guys LOL. Very professional, well spoken and organized parts handling.
+Poly Props Thanks for checking us out and the feedback! 1AAuto.com
The Ford Service manual says the upper ball joint nut torque is 85 ft-lbs on some pages, and 111ft-lbs on other pages. Which is correct??
I'm assuming grease was used on the replacements. What grease, and at what locations?
if i replace the actuator should i replace the hub/bearing assembly also?
Be ideal to change them while your in there
Great videos first off. Second. I had some smoke coming from the driver side front wheel and the smell of burn brakes one day. I replaced the Rotors (both sides while I was there). the driver side caliper and new brake pads on both sides, to keep everything even in wear. Still the same problem. I then replaced the wheel hub assembly. Still having the same problem. Vehicle seems to be lugging like rolling resistance. No loud humming noises or pulling one way or another. Putting into FWD does nothing. No warning lights or codes popping up. A LOT of heat being generated in a short distance (like 5 miles). 2102 F-150 110 K miles 4fx 3.5l. any help would be appreciated.
Check your caliper brake hose
Your master cylinder might be over filled.
Will this make my 4 wheel drive engage . I can hear the shaft turning but it wont engage. I have a 2012 f150 fx4 with the 5.0 engine
Great video. My 2008 f150 is grinding when im in lower rpm and goes away when i idol up or put it in 4x4. My question is how will i know if it is my actuator or not? I tested the lines and solenoid and all good. Thanks?
+Colin wallyboy Thank you! We do not have a way of being able to diagnose the issue that you are experiencing with your vehicle but suggest taking it to a local mechanic for a proper diagnosis.
With no vacuum on the vacuum hub, it should be locked into 4WD for the front wheels. With vacuum, it should be free wheeling. Check the vacuum hub by taking it apart and cleaning it and seeing if it moves back and forth. Add vacuum and check for leaks if you have it all the way apart. Mine did the same thing and it was faulty.
Hi Colin. Mine is doing the exact same thing you have described. Did you find out what your issue was, or did you just replace the vacuum hub? Thanks.
Use a vacume tester and put it on the end. Mine just makes a suction noise where the other side keeps vacume.
You could have a leak in your vacuum line.. I seen a post somewhere a guy sprayed water and liguid detergent down the line and found a broken connector.. easy fix
1a auto the best
+juno monroy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Awesome vid your techs are very cool to explain & show jobs
+Fran Mitch Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I like the new intro.
+A Ramirez Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
No need to grease the new actuator before putting it on?
Awesome Job, All hand tools...
+Thomas Sylvestro Thanks for the feedback!
Perfect clear instuctions
Will this need realignment after
+David Matthews It is suggested to get an alignment after replacing any of your suspension or brake parts.
Question will the vacuum hub cause the truck to make a humming noise if it is wore out
+Chris Hooker It could
1A Auto Parts ok thanks
Does the humming go away when you engage 4x4? if the answer is yes, then you need to replace the vacuum hub, otherwise the problem, most likely, is your wheel hub.
Chris Hooker if you loose vacuum it will make metal grinding/clanking/popping noises. Also the axle will spin with the wheel when driving in 2wd when it’s not supposed to spin. Horrible design by ford. Also buy the dorman 600-405 vacuum delete part. It’s the OE fix and will remove the vacuum BS. It locks the axle to the hub but you still can control the 2wd/4wd as normal but never have to deal with these hub actuators going out constantly
This is 2019, you guys need electric or even air tools for quicker, easier work. Let the tools do the work instead of your body
fantastic job..
the upper ball joint is dead
She replaced it
I noticed when you torqued the bolts you clicked it twice. On an airplane you only click it one time on the torque. If you click it more,you over torqued it, then you have to back it off and torque it again to one time only.
so what is the flat rate time for doing this?
Rumor has it you're suppose to start your truck to reset the actuator spring before you slide the axle in by connecting the vacuum line and starting the truck. Is this true??
Yes it is. My oem one I broke because I did not do this during a strut replacement while led to gaming to do the actuator hub too. I just did it this guys way and it worked fine.
ruclips.net/video/zqihvBDPEZc/видео.html
before assembling. did you pack it? do not recall you doing that. motorcraft grease for 4X4's NG 11 (not sure of the PT#) great video though.
Is it necessary to take the wheel hub out to remove the vacuum actuator?
Nope, a lot of extra work done here.
Great job !!!
+Tony Cumella Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What's the difference between ft pounds and inch pounds?
+K Z Thanks for checking us out! One foot-pound is equal to 12 inch-pounds. This means that one inch-pound equals one-twelfth of a foot-pound (1/12). To convert your torque measurements of inch-pounds to foot-pounds, divide your figure by 12.
1A Auto Parts ok thanks
Instead of 12 grunts its 1 grunt now 🤣
My rear driver side tire was stuck on my 2012 xlt and had to mule kick it just to get it off lol
I would have installed a new cv shaft since it was all apart to eliminate having to take it all back apart later to install one
makes me want a hoist.
why not just take the bottom strut bolt out remove cv axl and do it that way? I just watched a video from A-1 doing that in stead of making it a die job?
I cn that video 2
I wouldn’t replace it with another.... I would do the IWE Delete with the Dorman .. yea you are running your axels all the time... but you can go into 4wheel drive using the transfer case ....
If vacuum releases could u just unhook the line at the firewall?
great job
Making an easy to understand video in womanspeak! Thanks for the detail and video that actually shows what your doing,
+Sage Oliver Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
This can be done without taking the brake rotor off
It can be done without taking it off. Or taking the wheel hub off. Also it’s a sealed unit so I’m not sure what she meant by a “seal” for the IWR to the cv axle?? You can take the new IWE and keep it in your hand, put vacuum to it and you’ll see it pull in.
About 4 minutes in maybe a little bit later than that you were taking off at 8mm out what kind of Ratchet is that. It's like a ratchet and a swivel had a baby and that was it...
great video. thank you
+Dr Outdoors Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How much in parts and labor
This was misleading in the fact she also had to replace the upper control arm because she destroyed the ball joint. Watch how much fun it is to replace that!
The ball joint wasn't destroyed. A few scratches or gouges on the ball joint shaft wont stop it from tightly fitting into its sleeve.
Anyone know if this is about the same for a '15?
You could shorten it up quite a bit we all know how to take a wheel off
So how do you know one is bad?
Why did you replace the wheel hub assembly ?
+Curtis Loewen Thanks for watching! We replaced it because we were also making a video on replacing the hub assembly. You can reuse your original if it doesn't need to be replaced. 1aauto.com
Wow. No penetrating fluid or oxyacetylene. Nice harbor freight sockets tho.
Tell her to wash her hands when she is done and make me a delicious sandwich.🥪🥪
Marmite on toast for you lolol
Why did she replace the entire hub and bearing assembly as well. That’s completely unnecessary if it’s only your IWE vacuum hub that has failed. Are they suggesting you need to replace both in an attempt to sell you both? Hmmm, I hope not.
you don't need to remove hub to change Hub Actuator
+Shawn Ray We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
She replaced the hubs too
That’s some rust on the front end and I live in Ontario Canada .
UPPER BALL JOINT BOOT LOOKS DESTROYED...
Wow she takes way more off than necessary!!! Wow I left the brakes on. Popped the upper control arm off the knuckle took the nut off the axle and unbolted the hub ... DONE
Well, she replaced the hubs too. So that's all neccesary.
😍😍😍😍😍
+Levent SALT Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So you had to replace the iwe, got that. Then you replaced the upper control arm n ball joint, sure the vise grips didn't help that. The the strut, rotor, wheel hub n pads. Why all this other stuff?? Talk about running up the bill!!
And that triple click is the reason why people can't get there own bolts off after someone else worked on there vehicle.
impact Impact!!!! great vid otherwise!
Ive got a 2008 f150 and I only have 1 solenoid where this truck has two, a disengage and and engage. I would assume the one I have must be a disengage obviously, but should I have both or do the 2008s only have 1?
+Jack Muller There should be two one for each wheel hub.
1A Auto Parts I watched some videos and talked to a local mechanic and apparently, at least on the 2008 they are both connected.
Good video, thanks 😊
Great video. Thanks
I wouldn’t replace it with another.... I would do the IWE Delete with the Dorman .. yea you are running your axels all the time... but you can go into 4wheel drive using the transfer case ....