How to Replace Wheel Hub Bearing 11-14 Ford F-150
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2018
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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASHS00921
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning wheel bearing hub. This video is applicable to the 11, 12, 13, 14 Ford F150
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/of5/1AXAA00020
• 18mm Wrench
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/oTK/1AXAA00015
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/oow/1AXAA00043
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oow/1AXAA00043
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/oMG/1AXAA00017
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/ojd/1AXAA00051
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/ojd/1AXAA00052
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/oiE/1AXAA00078
• Ratchet 1aau.to/o7H/1AXAA00016
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oTK/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/or4/1AXAA00044
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oqh/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oiU/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oqu/1AXAA00065
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/aTR/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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Sue is the best: many videos with practical info with no B.S. (and 150 ft/lbs with one arm!)
Completed a right-side IWE replacement today. Disassembling revealed that the IWE had *split in two*, with the spline gear stuck on the hub's spline and barely engaged on the CV side spline. Explains why the grinding was on right-hand turns - the weight of the CV would cause it to disengage from the stuck spline gear. Both the CV and hub splines where in perfect shape, so I avoided a far more expensive repair.
The replacement tested fine during assembly and when everything was back together, let's hope it lasts longer than its predecessor. Thanks for making all of these videos, they really helped a lot!
Thank you so much for this video. I needed to change my front hub bearings and seeing your video showed me how easy they were. Both sides took me less than two hours. Not bad for a non-mechanic in my opinion...
+Jonathan Rice Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Used this video today to replace the front wheel bearings on my dad's 2013 Ford F-150 Raptor. Worked great! Thank you so much!
I have a 2011 Raptor, I hope it's the same.
How long did it take you?
@@MaddSweetGT500 it’s simple. Just take your time. Go ahead and get two jack screws prepared in case your rotors are stuck to the hub. Just run the jack screws in and the rotor will come off super easy.
You just saved me $150 thanks 🔥
Just did this repair today and also threw new pads and rotors on.
Fairly easy to do!
Thanks 1A Auto.
Hands down the BEST tutorial video online!
Sue out here showin up all us guys 👀😏
+THE NHRA GUY #49 Thank you for your feedback!
Very good video. Thanks for the help as my bearing came out and went in really smoothly.
I have to say I like the way she gave a complete, outlined tool list.. I'll admit bonkin my head crawling out from underneath a vehicle cause I had the wrong socket or was just plain disorganized.
Thank you for this video! I had already purchased the part, but I will add 1A Auto to my favorites list.
She was very good in explaining have too replace it!!!👍🏾👍🏾
Great video, instructive and thorough.
Very well prepared and explained ty
After replacing the wheel bearing it is throwing a “service Advancetrac” warning. Now the wrench light won’t turn off. I also replaced calipers on both sides.
The link for this part is for a 4x4 configuration! Make sure that if you have an RWD configuration on your 09-14 F150, please do make changes on the search bar on the given link!
What does the upper ball joint have to do with this? She put it back into the steering knuckle but I never saw her take it loose.
If you look close, they replaced the strut assembly during the process
Right!! I was thinking the same thing..
Me too. My tie rod end doesn’t want to come loose. I would have liked to have seen how she did it.
Thank you for showing how to unlock those thrice damned electrical connectors. Everyone else says, "To Change the hub, reach behind the wheel well and disconnect the connector..." and magically, sight unseen disconnect them. Retired as a controls engineer so connectors are not an unknown to me but a lot of these connectors, if you do them wrong, you can easily destroy them, or at least the locking feature. Again, Thank you.
+Paul Holmes Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you doing one now
Great video!
Thank you for the video. I did my bearings and IWEs today. Dead honest with you, those bolts for the brake caliper bracket did not come out that easy. As in we had to use a breaker bar with a cheater.
Anywho, the TRQ bearings you are selling seem to be high quality.
+shaunpisk Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Great video on how to change the hub assembly but was the hub bad? I notice that the iwe bolts were missing and the iwe was loose... or did I miss something?
How do you stay so clean? is my only question. Great video.
You can remove the whole caliper as one unit, no need to disconnect the caliper from the caliper bracket.
Also why did you disconnect the upper control arm? And when? The removal of it, isn't shown in the video
Well isn't that something? I wasn't the only one that noticed the upper A arm had gotten disconnected at some point, not in the video, and odd that they've not addressed your question with a reply.
Because while making this video there was also a video being recorded for replacing the upper control arms. Shot both vids in one go and that’s why it looks like things magically got disconnected. Brakes got changed so that’s why the calipers got completely torn down too. I gotta replace brakes, hub, and UCA’s as well on my truck soon.
I spray all the bolts with rust buster first makes it easier cracking loose.
Do those bearing come pre greased? Did I miss that part?
Is there a video for 2wd?
Thanks for the information! I'm having the same problem with my truck .
What are the symptoms
I am hearing a grinding growling noise when I drive and sometimes it pops and goes away until I stop and start again
Is the passenger side spindle nut opposite threads then the drivers shown in the video?
Well it looks like I'll be drinking the day I have to replace mine! Alot of work
I have a 2014 F150 5.0 v8 FX4, is this the correct part for my front wheel bearings?
Is this applicable to a 2012 Ford Raptor?
🙏 thank you!! I know what I’m doing this weekend
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Roberto Cuellar
1A Auto Parts do you have the part # to the wheel hub nut ? I called Ford Dealer and they claim the nut comes with the Wheel hub assembly
@@1AAutoat the last quarter of the video Su reattaches the upper a arm ball joint. Is it necessary to remove that when doing the replacing the wheel bearing assembly?
why did you replace the 4 wheel drive hub locker (IWE) and also why didnt you show it in the video nor mention it ???????
This video is actually an abridged version. The real video is to replace the hub locker. search for that and you will see the full video. I watched that one first.
When sue picked up the tire, I knew it was time to hit the gym
+J Thin Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto is the front and rear wheel hub assembly interchangeable?
Do you have to grease the hubs?
She said that the OEM says to replace that nut behind the dust cover. Does anyone know what the model number is to that nut?
I think this is what I need to do to get rid of my shaky breaks …… new rotors and still shaky . I suspect the hub is the culpret.
Is it required to remove the upper ball joint??
I noticed during reassembly she "said reinstall the ball joint into the spindle"......
Is it easier to replace the actuators when you pull the hubs as well? I'm just curious as you did not separate the ball joints when this was done.
It’s a multiple job video if you watch it closely. They just show us the wheel hub removal here. If you watch the second half you’ll notice they have the upper ball joint removed and the 4x4 actuators are new. I felt it was easier to remove the hubs when the upper ball joint was still attached so you could really hit it hard without the whole spindle moving. (Mine was really rusted so I had to use a really big hammer).
@@c.ramiez4505 I was wondering why she didn't mention removing the ball joint but did mention putting it together! Thanks!
what if the bolt gets stripped what would be the best way to solve it??
I've learned a CRAP tone from this lady!
Two Questions:
I may have missed, but why was undoing the Ball Joint/UCA, required?
Lastly, where do I find the OEM Foot Lbs, for all these nuts and bolts?
did mine this weekend,bought the parts here too..RWD F150 took an hour or so
+excelerater Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto One is on the way back ,it failed after a two months ,grease came out of the seals and its started knocking...Not too impressed
+excelerater We are very sorry to hear this issue happened. Please contact our customer service department. We are happy to assist with any issues you may have.
You didn't show disconnecting the ball joint, only the reassembly.. is that step necessary?
Did I miss where you disconnected the upper BALL JOINT? The entire assembly is vertical, then at 07:15, it is flopped down & I see the upper ball joint is LOOSELY together at 10:24From the comments below... I read she was replacing many things... this was not just a wheel bearing replacement ALONE. This makes it confusing to those who know what theyre looking at, yet she never said the "upper ball joint needs to be separated" or not??
could have left the caliper on the bracket with pads also much easier to put a socket on the hub unit bolts to push the hub bearing out
No i have the exact same truck, i replaced the pads front and back, and rotors front to back and when i apply brakes im getting a pulsating pedal or vibration when braking....i wonder if my wheel hub bearings are bad?
+Black Enigma We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Noticed she removed the brake caliber from the caliber bracket this is not necessary just makes more work. Just remove the caliber bracket all in one piece. Also noticed she used a screwdriver for a prybar that’s not a proper way to use a screwdriver. Also she used needle nose pliers instead of panel clip pliers. use the right tools for the right job.
The Ford Service manual says the upper ball joint nut torque is 85 ft-lbs on some pages, and 111ft-lbs on other pages. Which is correct??
2WD versus 4WD ?
That price for the hubs is for 2?
What about 2 wheel drive?
My used Ford f150 I recently bought came with 7 lug wheels..can I replace the 7 lug to 6 lug wheel bering..
+@homeimprovementrepair2286 These parts will not be interchangeable.
How many miles are the OEM F150 hubs normally good for?
Mine lasted 40k with a 6inch BDS life and 35 inch tires at 16k miles.
Daniel Mulligan well that’s why you don’t lift trucks
@@mechanicinjuries6181 does it depend on your driving too? I've seen brand new axles break in Moab
My f150 lasted about 160k miles on a 2 inch level and 1 inch block in the black. I’m having to replace both of mine this weekend
I am getting ready to change mine at 203000 miles. Stock brake pads made it to 150000 miles. I got lucky with this 2010, it wasn’t built on Friday, lol
How do you come up with 129 ft.lbs torque for the wheel bearings ??? Numerous places have told me 30ft lbs of torque
Did you see the size of the bolts? 30 foot pounds barely tickles their fancy !
Good demonstration but so questionable methods, why did you disconnect the upper control arm? Why remove the dust shield on the wheel well, why didn't you grease the brake points?
How does this change if your truck is rwd?
+Isaac Cavazos We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Do you need to grease anything ?
+William Wilkes No you do not in this case.
She did not show when she disconnected and reconnected the tie rid end to the hub assembly...
So......I did this and you know the nut that needs to be replaced on the cv shaft? Ya, so it comes with red loctite on it and you need to heat it up with a torch before threading it on. Great video but without that info it's easy to break off the threaded bolt and it'll cost ya a lot of money. Especially, if your working on a raptor. Other then that this video covered the bases.
I had to do some searching for the nut on Amazon and Ford Parts. It turns out the part number is N802827 for ford or N802-827S100 for Amazon. You can buy them for less than $8 a piece. They take about 2 weeks to arrive at least that is what Amazon is estimating. They are much smaller than expected compared to my 2014 Mustang which I replaced the hubs on 2 years ago.
What about a 2010?
I understand the videos of this but my wheel bearing has no play could’ve been in also be making a grinding noise is because it’s worn out and I wore a way to Greece but still have no play because when I shake my tire I got no movement and I thought it was my 4 x 4 actuator that didn’t fix the problem so now I’m wondering maybe I need to replace the bearing because it only makes a loud grinding noise when you accelerate but when you let off the gas it goes away
IWEs
It’s a part of your 4WD system when they fail it’ll try to engage causing a grind not a huge problem happens a lot
Try the vacuum lines
@@adenseay4513 if the IWE is let go to long will you have to replace the hub assembly?, mine was making that noise only under load and i replace the IWE and check valve it still seems to do it but a lot quieter and does not seem to last as long
Justin Bolton if there is any loss of vacuum it will cause it to engage if it has been going on a long time the most you’ll probably have to replace is the bearings inside the hub due to being worn down by the grinding. Also you saying it happens under load backs up my thought of a vacuum leak because when you accelerate the truck doesn’t produce vacuum it depends on the reserve. Check the reservoir for cracks maybe.
Not a bad job, but I noticed you never showed removing the top ball joint nut to free the spindle. Then when torquing new part in it was magically reinstalled. Not a legit video.
+Joe Bowers Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Where is your impact tools!
She stronger then me
👍👍👍👍👍🍺😎
Great Video, Thanks! Quick question, shouldn't she showing us how to make cookies?
Feminist
Ignorant much?
Sue a bad mf
So many unnecessary steps. No need to take caliper off caliper bracket, no need to break loose upper ball joint, no need to unbolt 4x4 actuator. Wasted time.
I ususally like the A1 videos. I am not however interested in DEI. If you are going to put a woman mechanic on use one that doesn't laugh when she rips the splash shield instead of pulling the plastic clip correctly. Better yet. Just have a guy do it. If he rips the shield then make a new video with a different guy.