Setting up the LED is a chore, I watched this Bardwell video to learn how to do it. ruclips.net/video/gnJg6KAJSmo/видео.html It's been a few months, so forgive me if I'm a little rusty. The end result was that I was able to switch the LED lights on with Aux5 on my Boxer radio. If you bought a prebuilt Cinebot30 yours may already be wired, but these concepts will help you figure out the Beta Flight Side of things. Before you do any of this, please backup your FC settings so you can reload it if you encounter any problems!!! Step 1: Find a TX or RX pad on your flight controller that is open. (For me it was TX5) This is where the signal wire from the LED BEC will be soldered. I also soldered the + - of the LED BEC straight to B+ B-. Step 2: Plug your flight controller into Beta Flight and within CLI, type "resource" in the command line and press enter to find what your pad is pinned out to. Scroll down the CLI and find your Pad. (For me TX5 was pinned to C12 as it read "resource serial_tx 5 C12") This next step was hard for me to grasp, but you have to take the pin you just found ( for me "C12") disassociate it from its original assignment (for me TX5) and associate it with something else called a User (For me User2). This User is the same as Pinio in the command line. Your flight controller has 4 of these Pinios already. Sometimes they are not turned on yet, sometimes they are turned on and assigned to something else already. To see if your Pinios are turned on and already being used you must complete the next step. Step 3: Within CLI type "get pinio_box" and then press enter. You will see a response like "pinio_box = 255,255,255,255" Those 4 numbers separated by commas represent the 4 Pinios that I mentioned above. The first number is Pinio1, the second is Pinio2, the third is Pinio3, and the fourth is Pinio4. The number 255 means that Pinio is turned off. If you see anything other than 255 in one of the Pinio slots, that means that Pinio is in use or is assigned already, and you don't want to use that spot. If you want to turn on one of the Pinios then you must type in 40, 41, 42, 43 in the respective slot. For example if I type "get pinio_box" in my CLI, I get this "pinio_box = 40,41,255,255" This means I have Pinio1 assigned and Pinio2 assigned, but Pinio 3 & 4 are switched off because 255 is in those slots. Step 4: Pick a Pinio spot that is open. To turn it on, let's say Pinio2, type the following in CLI "set pinio_box = 255,41,255,255" and then press enter. If you wanted to turn on Pino4 only, you would enter "set pinio_box = 255,255,255,43" Step 5: Disassociate Pad from Pin. If you remember, our goal is to remap the Pin (in my case C12) from it's original assigned pad (in my case TX5) to a Pinio (in my case Pinio2). But first we must remove the pin from the original pad so we can switch it to Pinio. Type the following in CLI to free the pin from the Pad you originally picked. To free mine I typed the following into CLI "resource serial_tx 5 none" and pressed enter. You will type in whatever Pad you picked. Example, if you picked rx4, then you would type "resource serial_rx4 none". Step 6: Remap Pin to Pinio. I will be remapping pin C12 to Pinio2 so I typed the following into CLI: "resource pinio 2 C12" and then pressed enter. This now designates Pinio2 on pin C12. You will type in whatever Pinio and pin # that you picked. Example, if you picked rx4 and it was original mapped to C11 and you want to remap it to Pinio 3, then you would type the following in CLI. "resource pinio 3 C11" and press enter. Step 7: Make sure to save before exiting the CLI page. If you forget to save, none of your changes will save to the flight controller. Go to the the Modes page in Betaflight. Now you'll have to create the link from what ever User/Pinio you turned on/mapped in CLI (1,2,3, or 4) and the auxiliary channel from your radio that you would like to use. If it's not already de-selected, de-select the "Hide Unused Modes" tab near the top left. This will show all the modes that are unused but available (we are looking for User1, User2, User3, or User4). If you look in here before you do all the above work in the CLI, the User modes won't show up in here. The only exception is if your flight controller already was setup for one or two of these User modes from the factory. Step 8: Find what User you mapped your pin to in CLI (User1=Pinio1, User2=Pinio2, User3=Pinio3, User4=Pinio4). Click "Add Range" and select which Aux Channel you want from the drop down box. Now set your slider and hatch mark so the switch will turn the light on. For my situation, I used User2 because I mapped to Pinio2. I then selected AUX 5 because that was the switch on the radio I wanted to use. My Slider is set from 900-1225, and my hatch is set at 1500. Step 9: Hit save in the bottom right corner to save. I'm sure I missed something, but this should be the bulk of it. If you back up your stuff first and take your time on this, this will get you where you need!
great work and video! Just transfered my cinebot from analog to o3. It is really tight space with this unit. And since o3 is my main camera now i've mounted the unit upsaid down to have access to usb-c through that big hole. Still I had to cut some material from the edge of the frame to fit usb connector. Works fine. Now I am waiting for magnet cable to come hope it will be eassy to plug and unplug o3. Cinebot is not very easy frame to fix and upgrade.
That's awesome, thank you for the tip! I may take it back apart and mod it like you did. I love the engineering and look of it, but you're right, access is an issue and it is a pain to take apart and cram all that stuff back in there! You'll have to give an update on how that cable works out!
@@MilneFPV my idea with magnet cable failed. I do not know wether it's because of the bad cable or it's just impossible. I've managed to get power on the o3 unit but the pc could not find the o3 as flash card. May be I will try another magnet cable later. Nether the less the upside down mounitng let use the usb-c without unscrewing the bottom plate.
Now all you need is a Karen with her "Smart Device" ;) Thanks for the video, I've been working on getting mine bond to the Transmitter, and doing her maiden flight.
I think this is the most useful video on the GEPRC Cinebot30. Rally appreciate putting this one put! I have been flying my Cinebot 30 about a month now - i really enjoy thr default PIDs. Only after watching tis video i realized something called the receiver antenna, i do not have this at this moment, i directly purchased my drone from GEPRC. Is this something i need to add externally? Also, please share link for the Gopro mount! Have a wonderful day!
Hi, thank you so much! Yes it flies very smooth with the stock setup. I found that when I fly it inside I must add a lot of expo and take some of the rates out of it. Some of the models that GepRC send out don't have external antennas for the receiver, only for the VTX. Which receiver protocol did you get? Here is a link for the GoPro mount, once you click the link you'll have to scroll down near the bottom of the "PARTS" Drop down menu. You'll see "GEP-CT30-Full-sized GoPro Base Mount $7.00 geprc.com/product/geprc-gep-ct30-frame-parts/
@@ThePieSnatcher Thanks, it’s shot with my iPhone. I bought a cheap desk mounted rig that holds the phone over my workspace. It’s basically a couple of aluminum pipes that clamp to the desk and are adjustable and configurable. jusmo Camera Desk Mount with... www.amazon.com/dp/B094N6W6SP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
the prop/motor direction doesn't seem to be right, all the pictures i'm seeing online and even on the geprc site don't match the prop layout you were describing, and everything else I've seen says motors 4 and 2 (the fronts by the camera lens) spin outwards instead of inwards... was that a mistake on your video or what's up with that? will still fly with the layout you mentioned?? everything else was great tho, lots of helpful info, thanks for taking the time to make the video otherwise.
Hey there, thanks for checking out the video! You're right, I have mine setup opposite as the way GepRC ships their bind n fly Cinebot30 (at least how their pictures show). I set mine up to match my other quadcopters for no other reason than consistency. It flies the same either way, you just have to make the settings in BetaFlight for motor direction to match how you mounted the props. Some like rotation to be outward because you are less likely to pull branches into the front of the quad, but I don't know of any other reasons you would pick one way or another!
Thank you! There is only one set of mounting holes on the top plate for the FC and they are 25.5 x 25.5 mm. The bottom plate has various holes 25.5 x 25.5 mm, 24.5 x 24.5 mm, and 20.5 x 20.5 mm but no 30.5 x 30.5 mm. The frame is very tight with an AIO FC and O3 air unit, it's tedious to fit those units in the frame as it sits, so I don't think there would be room vertically between the two plates for a 30 x 30mm stack and a VTX. It looks like they designed this to fit the FC on the top plate and the VTX on the bottom plate. Hope this helps!
i had to rebuild mine. dumped the stock CLI and flys like it used to but for some reason i cant get the LED strip to turn off. tried programing different buttons, nothing.
Typically it is cheaper to build quads yourself instead of buying ready to fly ones. With the Cinebot30, you save about $40 if you build it yourself. In terms of saving time and frustration, totally worth paying that $40 to have someone else build. In terms of learning how to build, solder, load software, etc...priceless doing it yourself. That being said, the all in one flight controller that is needed for this has tiny solder pads, and I would rank it very difficult if you haven't done a lot of soldering before. I consider myself pretty savvy with the electronics and soldering, and it was still a challenge for me!
Hmmm...I would have to see some pics of yours. I just checked mine and the shafts don't go all the way through the props, they come up 1mm short. That really shouldn't matter because the screws hold the props on and the shaft just centers the prop on the bell housing.
@@califpv Oh that, it wasn’t included in the kit, had to buy it separate from GEPRC. Here’s a link, scroll near the bottom and you’ll see this GEP-CT30-Full-sized GoPro Base Mount geprc.com/product/geprc-gep-ct30-frame-parts/
Thanks for making this great video! Now I feel more confident of using my CT30 knowing it is not thaaaat hard to fix it my self. Do you have any video or Can recommend me one of how to set indoor flight rates and being able to go back to default rates on betaflight? I guess betaflight is the hardest part of building drones. I own a CT30 O3 pnp 6s and fly it with Dji fpv remote controller 2 and Dji goggles v2
It's very easy to change your rates from your remote controller. The times I reference below apply to this video( ruclips.net/video/T1G18-W9_I4/видео.html ) where I'm showing settings for my Cinebot30. First make sure you save your default settings by going to "Presets" tab (1:22) and clicking "Save Backup". Second, you have to set up different rates in BetaFlight. Go to the PID Tuning Tab and click on the "Rateprofile Settings" (1:52) Look above the "Rateprofile Settings" tab and you'll see a drop down for up to 4 Rateprofiles. As you click the different rate profiles you'll see the graph down below change as well as the rates just above it. (2:02) If you change the numbers in the "center sensitivity" "max rate" or "expo" categories as well as the "Throttle Limit", "Throttle Limit %", "Throttle MID", and "Throttle EXPO" they will be saved individually for each Rateprofile when you hit save at the bottom right of screen. It will save your new rates to whatever Rateprofile you are on. I keep Rateprofile 1 the same across all my quadcopters and then make alternates for Rateprofile 2 or Rateprofile 3 depending on what I'm flying or where. Third, find an empty switch on your transmitter, preferably a 3 position switch. I use aux 2 on my Boxer radio for switching rates, it is the second switch from top left of my radio. Up is Rateprofile 1, middle is Rateprofile 2, down is Rateprofile 3. If you don't know what "aux #" your open switch is, turn on your transmitter, plug a battery into your quad, and go to the "Receiver" tab (2:26). You can move the switch and watch for movement in one of the aux channels on the betaflight screen. Make note of this "Aux #" because you'll need it in the next step. You can disconnect the battery from your quad and turn off your transmitter now. Fourth, go to the "Adjustments" tab (2:50) and set yours up like you see mine. The only difference would be what AUX channel you are using. Make sure to have the Aux channel the same under "when channel" and "via channel". Also make sure to drag the yellow slider to cover the entire spread from 900-2100. Make sure to hit save when done. Fifth, in order to test to see if it's all working, turn on your transmitter, plug a battery in your quad, and connect to Betaflight. Go to the "PID Tuning" tab (1:37). Move your aux switch on your radio and look to see if Rateprofile 1 in the drop down changes to Rateprofile 2 and so on to Rateprofile 3. If you've done it all correctly it will change with movement of the switch on your transmitter. Hope this helps you!
![[TF2] The Russian Bear Trap](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YFNSwz2_rOA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi. Can you please explain how to set the backlight in Betaflight.
Best regards.
Setting up the LED is a chore, I watched this Bardwell video to learn how to do it.
ruclips.net/video/gnJg6KAJSmo/видео.html
It's been a few months, so forgive me if I'm a little rusty. The end result was that I was able to switch the LED lights on with Aux5 on my Boxer radio. If you bought a prebuilt Cinebot30 yours may already be wired, but these concepts will help you figure out the Beta Flight Side of things. Before you do any of this, please backup your FC settings so you can reload it if you encounter any problems!!!
Step 1: Find a TX or RX pad on your flight controller that is open. (For me it was TX5) This is where the signal wire from the LED BEC will be soldered. I also soldered the + - of the LED BEC straight to B+ B-.
Step 2: Plug your flight controller into Beta Flight and within CLI, type "resource" in the command line and press enter to find what your pad is pinned out to. Scroll down the CLI and find your Pad. (For me TX5 was pinned to C12 as it read "resource serial_tx 5 C12")
This next step was hard for me to grasp, but you have to take the pin you just found ( for me "C12") disassociate it from its original assignment (for me TX5) and associate it with something else called a User (For me User2). This User is the same as Pinio in the command line. Your flight controller has 4 of these Pinios already. Sometimes they are not turned on yet, sometimes they are turned on and assigned to something else already. To see if your Pinios are turned on and already being used you must complete the next step.
Step 3: Within CLI type "get pinio_box" and then press enter. You will see a response like "pinio_box = 255,255,255,255"
Those 4 numbers separated by commas represent the 4 Pinios that I mentioned above. The first number is Pinio1, the second is Pinio2, the third is Pinio3, and the fourth is Pinio4. The number 255 means that Pinio is turned off. If you see anything other than 255 in one of the Pinio slots, that means that Pinio is in use or is assigned already, and you don't want to use that spot. If you want to turn on one of the Pinios then you must type in 40, 41, 42, 43 in the respective slot. For example if I type "get pinio_box" in my CLI, I get this "pinio_box = 40,41,255,255" This means I have Pinio1 assigned and Pinio2 assigned, but Pinio 3 & 4 are switched off because 255 is in those slots.
Step 4: Pick a Pinio spot that is open. To turn it on, let's say Pinio2, type the following in CLI "set pinio_box = 255,41,255,255" and then press enter. If you wanted to turn on Pino4 only, you would enter "set pinio_box = 255,255,255,43"
Step 5: Disassociate Pad from Pin. If you remember, our goal is to remap the Pin (in my case C12) from it's original assigned pad (in my case TX5) to a Pinio (in my case Pinio2). But first we must remove the pin from the original pad so we can switch it to Pinio. Type the following in CLI to free the pin from the Pad you originally picked. To free mine I typed the following into CLI "resource serial_tx 5 none" and pressed enter. You will type in whatever Pad you picked. Example, if you picked rx4, then you would type "resource serial_rx4 none".
Step 6: Remap Pin to Pinio. I will be remapping pin C12 to Pinio2 so I typed the following into CLI: "resource pinio 2 C12" and then pressed enter. This now designates Pinio2 on pin C12. You will type in whatever Pinio and pin # that you picked. Example, if you picked rx4 and it was original mapped to C11 and you want to remap it to Pinio 3, then you would type the following in CLI. "resource pinio 3 C11" and press enter.
Step 7: Make sure to save before exiting the CLI page. If you forget to save, none of your changes will save to the flight controller.
Go to the the Modes page in Betaflight. Now you'll have to create the link from what ever User/Pinio you turned on/mapped in CLI (1,2,3, or 4) and the auxiliary channel from your radio that you would like to use. If it's not already de-selected, de-select the "Hide Unused Modes" tab near the top left. This will show all the modes that are unused but available (we are looking for User1, User2, User3, or User4). If you look in here before you do all the above work in the CLI, the User modes won't show up in here. The only exception is if your flight controller already was setup for one or two of these User modes from the factory.
Step 8: Find what User you mapped your pin to in CLI (User1=Pinio1, User2=Pinio2, User3=Pinio3, User4=Pinio4). Click "Add Range" and select which Aux Channel you want from the drop down box. Now set your slider and hatch mark so the switch will turn the light on. For my situation, I used User2 because I mapped to Pinio2. I then selected AUX 5 because that was the switch on the radio I wanted to use. My Slider is set from 900-1225, and my hatch is set at 1500.
Step 9: Hit save in the bottom right corner to save.
I'm sure I missed something, but this should be the bulk of it. If you back up your stuff first and take your time on this, this will get you where you need!
@@MilneFPV Thank you very much bro.
It's working now 👍👍👍🏅
@@MilneFPV I'm subscribed for you Chanel 👍🤝
That's awesome, I'm glad you got it figured out! These things do look really cool lit up!!
Thank you for the support!
Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo, cela va beaucoup m'aider à monter la frame ... j'attends les composants ! Bon vol ;-)
Thank you!
Great video man! I didn't need the video, and It was just so chill to watch. Thank you for the knowledge, Sir!
Thanks for the love!!!! Hope it helps someone out there looking to build one!
Very cool and informative video. Thank you for sharing your experience and time 👍
Thanks dude! Appreciate you checking it out!!!!
Thank you for this helpful video
Glad it helped you out, thanks for checking out the video!
great work and video! Just transfered my cinebot from analog to o3. It is really tight space with this unit. And since o3 is my main camera now i've mounted the unit upsaid down to have access to usb-c through that big hole. Still I had to cut some material from the edge of the frame to fit usb connector. Works fine. Now I am waiting for magnet cable to come hope it will be eassy to plug and unplug o3.
Cinebot is not very easy frame to fix and upgrade.
That's awesome, thank you for the tip! I may take it back apart and mod it like you did. I love the engineering and look of it, but you're right, access is an issue and it is a pain to take apart and cram all that stuff back in there! You'll have to give an update on how that cable works out!
@@MilneFPV my idea with magnet cable failed. I do not know wether it's because of the bad cable or it's just impossible. I've managed to get power on the o3 unit but the pc could not find the o3 as flash card. May be I will try another magnet cable later. Nether the less the upside down mounitng let use the usb-c without unscrewing the bottom plate.
That's a bummer, this sounded like it had some potential! Thanks for the update!@@flightlab3949
@@MilneFPV I think it's because of the wrong cable. Seems to me not every magnet cable is capable to transfer data.
Ah damn ....... sorry to see that !
It's all good, part of the learning process!!!!
Now all you need is a Karen with her "Smart Device" ;) Thanks for the video, I've been working on getting mine bond to the Transmitter, and doing her maiden flight.
Haha....right! You're welcome, hope it all goes smoothly for you!
I think this is the most useful video on the GEPRC Cinebot30. Rally appreciate putting this one put!
I have been flying my Cinebot 30 about a month now - i really enjoy thr default PIDs. Only after watching tis video i realized something called the receiver antenna, i do not have this at this moment, i directly purchased my drone from GEPRC. Is this something i need to add externally?
Also, please share link for the Gopro mount!
Have a wonderful day!
Hi, thank you so much! Yes it flies very smooth with the stock setup. I found that when I fly it inside I must add a lot of expo and take some of the rates out of it.
Some of the models that GepRC send out don't have external antennas for the receiver, only for the VTX. Which receiver protocol did you get?
Here is a link for the GoPro mount, once you click the link you'll have to scroll down near the bottom of the "PARTS" Drop down menu. You'll see "GEP-CT30-Full-sized GoPro Base Mount $7.00
geprc.com/product/geprc-gep-ct30-frame-parts/
hey bro, awesome video! I just wanted to ask how do you record your top down shots? they look awesome! Thanks :)
@@ThePieSnatcher Thanks, it’s shot with my iPhone. I bought a cheap desk mounted rig that holds the phone over my workspace. It’s basically a couple of aluminum pipes that clamp to the desk and are adjustable and configurable. jusmo Camera Desk Mount with... www.amazon.com/dp/B094N6W6SP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
How do I get that bench matte ?
Picked it up on Amazon, I bought the biggest one HTM-203 and love it! a.co/d/2f315FB
Hi men this is a very helpful video, I do have a question for you, what is your flight time with 1100mah 6s battery,? thanks
Hi there, if you fly slow and cinematic 7 mins is pretty normal flight time. If you're flying more aggressive then you'll get 4-5 mins.
the prop/motor direction doesn't seem to be right, all the pictures i'm seeing online and even on the geprc site don't match the prop layout you were describing, and everything else I've seen says motors 4 and 2 (the fronts by the camera lens) spin outwards instead of inwards... was that a mistake on your video or what's up with that? will still fly with the layout you mentioned?? everything else was great tho, lots of helpful info, thanks for taking the time to make the video otherwise.
Hey there, thanks for checking out the video! You're right, I have mine setup opposite as the way GepRC ships their bind n fly Cinebot30 (at least how their pictures show). I set mine up to match my other quadcopters for no other reason than consistency. It flies the same either way, you just have to make the settings in BetaFlight for motor direction to match how you mounted the props. Some like rotation to be outward because you are less likely to pull branches into the front of the quad, but I don't know of any other reasons you would pick one way or another!
Always have to rebuild bnf birds. I replace with lifetime warranty frame..not a cinema bird then lol
That's not a bad plan!
Hello bro you’re videos are very goods and useful just i want to ask you is FC Stack 30x30 is compatible with frame
thank you 🙏🙏
Thank you! There is only one set of mounting holes on the top plate for the FC and they are 25.5 x 25.5 mm. The bottom plate has various holes 25.5 x 25.5 mm, 24.5 x 24.5 mm, and 20.5 x 20.5 mm but no 30.5 x 30.5 mm. The frame is very tight with an AIO FC and O3 air unit, it's tedious to fit those units in the frame as it sits, so I don't think there would be room vertically between the two plates for a 30 x 30mm stack and a VTX. It looks like they designed this to fit the FC on the top plate and the VTX on the bottom plate. Hope this helps!
i had to rebuild mine. dumped the stock CLI and flys like it used to but for some reason i cant get the LED strip to turn off. tried programing different buttons, nothing.
Hi, is cheaper to build it like this or buying it full assembled? thanks
Typically it is cheaper to build quads yourself instead of buying ready to fly ones. With the Cinebot30, you save about $40 if you build it yourself. In terms of saving time and frustration, totally worth paying that $40 to have someone else build. In terms of learning how to build, solder, load software, etc...priceless doing it yourself. That being said, the all in one flight controller that is needed for this has tiny solder pads, and I would rank it very difficult if you haven't done a lot of soldering before. I consider myself pretty savvy with the electronics and soldering, and it was still a challenge for me!
hey i bought this same RC going by ur video with same props but my motors shaft is to short for the props any suggestion
Hmmm...I would have to see some pics of yours. I just checked mine and the shafts don't go all the way through the props, they come up 1mm short. That really shouldn't matter because the screws hold the props on and the shaft just centers the prop on the bell housing.
damn, yours came with a way better mount... where did you order it from?
Got it straight from GEPRC. This one was made specifically for the 03 air unit so it has a redesigned front camera housing.
@@MilneFPV yeah I have the 03 one too. sorry, meant the GoPro mount
@@califpv Oh that, it wasn’t included in the kit, had to buy it separate from GEPRC. Here’s a link, scroll near the bottom and you’ll see this GEP-CT30-Full-sized GoPro Base Mount geprc.com/product/geprc-gep-ct30-frame-parts/
Thanks for making this great video! Now I feel more confident of using my CT30 knowing it is not thaaaat hard to fix it my self. Do you have any video or Can recommend me one of how to set indoor flight rates and being able to go back to default rates on betaflight? I guess betaflight is the hardest part of building drones. I own a CT30 O3 pnp 6s and fly it with Dji fpv remote controller 2 and Dji goggles v2
It's very easy to change your rates from your remote controller. The times I reference below apply to this video( ruclips.net/video/T1G18-W9_I4/видео.html ) where I'm showing settings for my Cinebot30.
First make sure you save your default settings by going to "Presets" tab (1:22) and clicking "Save Backup".
Second, you have to set up different rates in BetaFlight. Go to the PID Tuning Tab and click on the "Rateprofile Settings" (1:52)
Look above the "Rateprofile Settings" tab and you'll see a drop down for up to 4 Rateprofiles. As you click the different rate profiles you'll see the graph down below change as well as the rates just above it. (2:02) If you change the numbers in the "center sensitivity" "max rate" or "expo" categories as well as the "Throttle Limit", "Throttle Limit %", "Throttle MID", and "Throttle EXPO" they will be saved individually for each Rateprofile when you hit save at the bottom right of screen. It will save your new rates to whatever Rateprofile you are on. I keep Rateprofile 1 the same across all my quadcopters and then make alternates for Rateprofile 2 or Rateprofile 3 depending on what I'm flying or where.
Third, find an empty switch on your transmitter, preferably a 3 position switch. I use aux 2 on my Boxer radio for switching rates, it is the second switch from top left of my radio. Up is Rateprofile 1, middle is Rateprofile 2, down is Rateprofile 3. If you don't know what "aux #" your open switch is, turn on your transmitter, plug a battery into your quad, and go to the "Receiver" tab (2:26). You can move the switch and watch for movement in one of the aux channels on the betaflight screen. Make note of this "Aux #" because you'll need it in the next step. You can disconnect the battery from your quad and turn off your transmitter now.
Fourth, go to the "Adjustments" tab (2:50) and set yours up like you see mine. The only difference would be what AUX channel you are using. Make sure to have the Aux channel the same under "when channel" and "via channel". Also make sure to drag the yellow slider to cover the entire spread from 900-2100. Make sure to hit save when done.
Fifth, in order to test to see if it's all working, turn on your transmitter, plug a battery in your quad, and connect to Betaflight. Go to the "PID Tuning" tab (1:37). Move your aux switch on your radio and look to see if Rateprofile 1 in the drop down changes to Rateprofile 2 and so on to Rateprofile 3. If you've done it all correctly it will change with movement of the switch on your transmitter.
Hope this helps you!
@@MilneFPV sure this helps a lot! Thanks for the perfect explanation. This makes so much sense now that you explain it to me 🙏
Your welcome, thanks for watching!@@walasfilms
Does the FC come with pre-soldered motors?
Nope, this FC did not come with pre-soldered motors.
Does O3 sbus block the elrs receiver? Should I disconnect?
Thank you 🙏
Does walksnail moonlight vtx fit in there?
Hi bro. Can you sand me please Betaflight configurations of cinebot 30.
Or pictures of config in Betaflight.
I would like so much.
Best regards.
defaults nosave
# version
# Betaflight / STM32F7X2 (S7X2) 4.4.1 Apr 6 2023 / 06:18:55 (e43d591b2) MSP API: 1.45
# config: YES
# start the command batch
batch start
# reset configuration to default settings
defaults nosave
board_name GEPRC_F722_AIO
manufacturer_id GEPR
mcu_id 000500175931500c20393539
signature
# name: Cinebot30
# resources
resource MOTOR 1 C07
resource MOTOR 2 C06
resource MOTOR 3 C09
resource MOTOR 4 C08
resource LED_STRIP 1 NONE
resource SERIAL_TX 4 NONE
resource SERIAL_TX 5 NONE
resource PINIO 1 C10
resource PINIO 2 C12
# feature
feature -SOFTSERIAL
feature -TELEMETRY
feature -LED_STRIP
feature -AIRMODE
# serial
serial 0 131073 115200 57600 0 115200
serial 1 0 115200 57600 0 115200
serial 2 64 115200 57600 0 115200
serial 3 0 115200 57600 0 115200
serial 4 0 115200 57600 0 115200
# beeper
beeper -ON_USB
# beacon
beacon RX_LOST
beacon RX_SET
# aux
aux 0 0 0 900 1300 0 0
aux 1 1 2 1700 2100 0 0
aux 2 2 2 1300 1700 0 0
aux 3 13 5 1700 2100 0 0
aux 4 28 3 900 1200 0 0
aux 5 35 4 1775 2100 0 0
# adjrange
adjrange 0 0 1 900 2100 12 1 0 0
# vtxtable
vtxtable bands 6
vtxtable channels 8
vtxtable band 1 BOSCAM_A A CUSTOM 5865 5845 5825 5805 5785 5765 5745 5725
vtxtable band 2 BOSCAM_B B CUSTOM 5733 5752 5771 5790 5809 5828 5847 5866
vtxtable band 3 BOSCAM_E E CUSTOM 5705 5685 5665 5645 5885 5905 5925 5945
vtxtable band 4 FATSHARK F CUSTOM 5740 5760 5780 5800 5820 5840 5860 5880
vtxtable band 5 RACEBAND R CUSTOM 5658 5695 5732 5769 5806 5843 5880 5917
vtxtable band 6 BAND_D D CUSTOM 5362 5399 5436 5473 5510 5547 5584 5621
vtxtable powerlevels 5
vtxtable powervalues 25 100 200 400 600
vtxtable powerlabels 25 100 200 400 600
# master
set gyro_lpf1_static_hz = 0
set dyn_notch_count = 1
set dyn_notch_q = 600
set dyn_notch_min_hz = 150
set acc_lpf_hz = 10
set acc_calibration = -61,0,-7,1
set rc_smoothing_auto_factor = 120
set rc_smoothing_auto_factor_throttle = 250
set rc_smoothing_throttle_cutoff = 20
set blackbox_sample_rate = 1/8
set dshot_idle_value = 600
set dshot_bidir = ON
set failsafe_delay = 40
set align_board_roll = 180
set align_board_yaw = 0
set vbat_max_cell_voltage = 440
set beeper_dshot_beacon_tone = 3
set small_angle = 180
set gps_provider = NMEA
set gps_rescue_ascend_rate = 500
set gps_rescue_ground_speed = 2000
set gps_rescue_descent_dist = 200
set gps_rescue_landing_alt = 5
set gps_rescue_throttle_max = 1600
set gps_rescue_throttle_hover = 1280
set gps_rescue_sanity_checks = RESCUE_SANITY_ON
set gps_rescue_throttle_p = 150
set gps_rescue_throttle_i = 20
set gps_rescue_throttle_d = 50
set gps_rescue_velocity_p = 80
set gps_rescue_velocity_i = 20
set gps_rescue_velocity_d = 15
set gps_rescue_yaw_p = 40
set report_cell_voltage = ON
set osd_units = IMPERIAL
set osd_warn_bitmask = 17213
set osd_cap_alarm = 5000
set osd_alt_alarm = 1000
set osd_tim1 = 3075
set osd_vbat_pos = 35
set osd_rssi_pos = 512
set osd_link_tx_power_pos = 384
set osd_rssi_dbm_pos = 2564
set osd_tim_1_pos = 2103
set osd_tim_2_pos = 391
set osd_flymode_pos = 2072
set osd_vtx_channel_pos = 404
set osd_crosshairs_pos = 345
set osd_current_pos = 259
set osd_craft_name_pos = 43
set osd_warnings_pos = 2549
set osd_avg_cell_voltage_pos = 2596
set osd_sys_bitrate_pos = 2532
set osd_stat_bitmask = 10487458
set osd_displayport_device = MSP
set debug_mode = GYRO_SCALED
set vcd_video_system = HD
set pinio_box = 40,41,255,255
set craft_name = Cinebot30
set pilot_name = JM
profile 0
# profile 0
set profile_name = Default
set vbat_sag_compensation = 100
set p_pitch = 58
set i_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 56
set i_roll = 100
set p_yaw = 56
set i_yaw = 100
set angle_level_strength = 80
set d_min_roll = 39
set d_min_pitch = 44
set thrust_linear = 80
set feedforward_averaging = 2_POINT
set feedforward_smooth_factor = 70
set feedforward_jitter_factor = 11
set dyn_idle_min_rpm = 30
set simplified_d_gain = 130
set simplified_pi_gain = 125
set simplified_dmax_gain = 15
profile 1
# profile 1
set profile_name = Flat
set vbat_sag_compensation = 100
set anti_gravity_gain = 35
set p_pitch = 58
set i_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 56
set i_roll = 100
set p_yaw = 56
set i_yaw = 100
set angle_level_strength = 80
set d_min_roll = 39
set d_min_pitch = 44
set thrust_linear = 20
set feedforward_smooth_factor = 60
set feedforward_jitter_factor = 12
set simplified_d_gain = 130
set simplified_pi_gain = 125
set simplified_dmax_gain = 15
profile 2
profile 3
# profile 3
set profile_name = Default
set vbat_sag_compensation = 100
set p_pitch = 58
set i_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 56
set i_roll = 100
set p_yaw = 56
set i_yaw = 100
set angle_level_strength = 80
set d_min_roll = 39
set d_min_pitch = 44
set thrust_linear = 80
set feedforward_averaging = 2_POINT
set feedforward_smooth_factor = 70
set feedforward_jitter_factor = 11
set simplified_d_gain = 130
set simplified_pi_gain = 125
set simplified_dmax_gain = 15
# restore original profile selection
profile 0
rateprofile 0
# rateprofile 0
set rateprofile_name = Favorite
set thr_mid = 40
set thr_expo = 10
set roll_rc_rate = 5
set pitch_rc_rate = 5
set yaw_rc_rate = 5
set roll_expo = 50
set pitch_expo = 50
set yaw_expo = 50
set roll_srate = 62
set pitch_srate = 62
set yaw_srate = 62
rateprofile 1
# rateprofile 1
set rateprofile_name = Cine
set thr_mid = 40
set thr_expo = 65
set roll_rc_rate = 2
set pitch_rc_rate = 2
set yaw_rc_rate = 5
set roll_expo = 50
set pitch_expo = 50
set yaw_expo = 50
set roll_srate = 25
set pitch_srate = 25
set yaw_srate = 25
rateprofile 2
# rateprofile 2
set rateprofile_name = Default
set thr_expo = 65
set roll_rc_rate = 2
set pitch_rc_rate = 2
set yaw_rc_rate = 5
set roll_expo = 50
set pitch_expo = 50
set yaw_expo = 50
set roll_srate = 25
set pitch_srate = 25
set yaw_srate = 25
rateprofile 3
# rateprofile 3
set rateprofile_name = BW Rates
set roll_rc_rate = 12
set pitch_rc_rate = 12
set yaw_rc_rate = 12
set roll_expo = 50
set pitch_expo = 50
set yaw_expo = 50
set roll_srate = 62
set pitch_srate = 62
set yaw_srate = 52
# restore original rateprofile selection
rateprofile 0
# save configuration
This is my backup file from today. Should be able to just paste into a notepad and save.
@@MilneFPV it's analog vtx?
No I fly digital - DJI Goggles 2 @@joni-mirfpv6976
@@MilneFPV Thanks. But my configuration is different.
Different motors ( not original)
I have crossfire.
I can't copy past the config.