Hi! I follow your videos with growing interest. They are of impeccable technical quality. You show how you master and love what you do. And as if that were not enough, you are quite generous sharing your knowhow with enthusiasm and contagious cheerfulness. Above all, I appreciate your dedicated concern to attend to the comments and/or questions of your followers. Good job!. Keep working! Thanks!
@NordFPV I’m definitely inspired by this video to build my first FPV drone. I will continue to watch your videos with great excitement and anticipation. Can you let the community know how the footage and flight with your built Cinebot30 please? Did you connect a go pro, what remote and goggles did you use?
Hi. Unfortunately I have to be very careful with footage outdoors because local rules. But the drone flies very well and walksnail is walksnail no matter what frame you put it. I’m not using a GoPro, I use a naked GoPro when I want to film. I use my tx16s which you can see in my other videos about how I customize it and my walksnail goggles V1.
This is a solid guide for fixing the drone with any damage but I think you skipped one of the important things on how to arrange during "sandwich~ng" the drone together. Specifically, I am interested in where you put the elrs receiver to not cause any problem with the fc board.
Thanks. The sandwiching was actually complicated. Since I’m using walksnail and adding an extra BEC I didn’t have a lot of space inside the drone and I placed the RX under the camera plate. If you are not using walksnail or the extra BEC there’s a pocket inside the frame where you can have the RX. Sorry I didn’t film this part but I actually got to know about it better after this tutorial was made and fix a couple of pre-builds of this drone
@@NordFPV Do you know for the O3 unit if there’s space for the RX? I actually have mine on the way having only PNP. It was late when I know the issue of DJI FPV RC2 RXloss. So I am planning to add ELRS RX myself.
You should have enough space for the RX inside. Look at the sides, there’s this pocket where you put the receiver, just think that you reach the pocket from underneath, you have to remove the bottom plate to get it in there.
I recently had to replace the F722 45A AIO as the one that came with the BNF version decided to spit a capacitor out. I noticed during the replacement process, the location of the large capacitor is sensitive to touches to wires (probably the soldered battery leads too) as once I closed it up, the O3 air unit touches the capacitor, causing my GPS not getting read by Betaflight (there's communication with BF and the GPS lit up but the icon doesn't light up in BF). Pushed the capacitor further back and it all became okay.
Yes, things are very tight there and the capacitor was the one giving me more issues to close the drone. I have the capacitors with cables and allowed me to locate it a bit away and more secured on a “hole” next to the VTX, but you are very right. People should be cared with the location of the cap.
Hello! I'm having the same problem( 17:35 ) building the 6s and just adding capacitors to the XT60 cable can't solve it?(17:02) Do I have to add additional parts(18:13)?
Hi. The capacitor I have there is small, but it should be better than nothing. You have to work all the pieces and get the capacitor in certain angle so it fits.
Not a bad idea. 2 things to keep in mind: 1-the led BEC is controlled by a switch. Do you want your VTX to be turned on/off by a switch? 2-you have to check it gives enough current. It should, but it needs to double check.
Bonsoir, j’ai build un cinebot mais impossible de faire fonctionner les leds ! J.ai un AIO Rush blade F7. Il est monté en 6S. Pouvez-vous montrer vos paramètres betaflight pour les leds ? Merci beaucoup du sud de la France 🙂 Good evening, I built a cinebot but impossible to make the leds work! I have an AIO Rush blade F7. It is mounted in 6S. Can you show your betaflight settings for the leds? Thank you very much from the south of France 🙂
If you are using a different FC/AIO than the original there’s no use to show the CLI. This LED are connected to a regular pad which is controlled by re mapping the resource to give power. This is not a regular LED. If you still want to see the CLI go to GEPRC’s website and download it from their support section.
Hola Orlando. Are you asking about the capacitor? I explained at the beginning. I said that since there’s no space inside you have to solder it to the battery lead.
@@NordFPV thanks, your video is really helpful! I just crashed mine today and the plastic cap of the O3 antena fell off and can’t put it back, idk if it need some glue or something but sure it is a pretty resistant drone
@@walasfilmsif you stil have the casing of the antenna, you can just glue back on as long as the antenna wires inside look like their still looped correctly and not damaged. id recommend switching your 03 antenna for lumineer or flyfish RC antenna's . those DJI ones don't last a single crash and are.the most expensive
I am working on converting an analog CineBot30 to Walksnail using the V2 VTX w/ 32GB memory and the new "night vision" camera. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is where to mount the 4-wire to USB-C cable for uploading firmware and downloading DVR videos. I really don't want to disassemble this thing every time I need to do that stuff. Did you come up with a mounting solution? I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in this video. It looks like the frame was originally designed around a DJI Air Unit so there's plenty of vertical space but I don't see a good mount for this USB connector that is easily accessible when fully assembled. Any ideas?
Honestly, I don’t have that piece since I have a v1. But there’s not much space in there. Even if it was designed for the O3. There’s a bit of space on the opening, where the usb of the o3 will be. What about under the action camera plate?
@@NordFPV Haha, well, I guess "plenty of vertical space" is relative. My second build ever was the RotorX Raiju, and everything since then has seemed downright spacious. For the CineBot, I ended up getting everything "in there"... eventually. It looks great from the outside, but the inside ain't pretty. The USB-C connector is just kind of wedged in somewhere it hopefully won't shake loose from. I'll have to remove the top plate to access the VTX's memory but I won't have to disassemble the bottom section, which I guess was my real worry. Maybe I'll find a better location for that connector in the future.
I think the moonlight is a bit thicker than the VTX pro, isn’t? There was really no space left in that build, so if the VTX on the moonlight is bigger I will say it shouldn’t fit.
This build is quite tight. And you should put the capacitor on the back next to the power pads. Use a small one, and make your best effort to push it in without breaking anything else.
Hi Yer. It depends how you configure it. If you haven’t touch it betaflight should have outward props. But look at motor page in betaflight it has a diagram showing the direction of each prop.
I will mount a flight controller upside down Now I gave 180 degree on roll axis this is ok. Now if I want to change the yaw axis with inverted placement then should I give the value of the direction in which I want to change or should I give the opposite value?
I believe there’s a better parameter to Change than roll and pitch when you are doing this. But I don’t remember the name from the top of my head. It’s in the same page.
Hi thanks for sharing all the knowledge of drone. I’m new to FPV drone or drone and I haven’t had one at the moment, so I’m curious what is the correct purchase because I’m planing to purchase a TBS tango 2 controller and I’m not sure if tango 2 can connect to cinebot30. I’ve also make a little research about the receiver for tango 2 which is crossfire if I’m not wrong.
Hi. Thanks for watching. FPV has a pretty steep learning curve in the beginning. There are many radio protocols, many video systems and many manufacturers. I will recommend to spend some hours watching RUclips videos on these topics. Decide what kind of drone do you want and then do some more research. If you have a more specific question feel free to send it my way.
Hi. There’s 2 important things. 1-is to have user 1 configured in your modes so you can enable and disable the light with a switch 2- is to map correctly the resources of the FC so you can connect the LED and control them. 2 can be complicated if you don’t know what you are doing with betaflight. Therefore I advice in the video to follow the configuration provided by GEPRC in their website (support). If you have the same FC as they use, and you connect it to the same pads, you can simple copy paste their config.
thx for this. im thinking of repurposing my protek 35 into something different but this looks like zero extra space internally. i just finished a pavo 25 build and luckily theres a small channel to the front/back where i was able to store the extra bits (rx, capacitor, etc) i might have to see what else betafpv has vs the cinebot =/
I am building my own Cinebot30 with this same frame and same motors but different ESC trying to decide between these three AIO ESC 1. SpeedyBee F745 35A BLS AIO Flight Controller 2. Foxeer Reaper AIO V3 F745 45A BLS Bluejay 2-6S 3. Mamba MK4 F740 AIO 1. with the motors having max current of 18.8A and above ESC having more than atleast 35A they should work fine right ? 2. speedybee size is the largest at 36.5 x 36.5 x 7mm , the diatone is 34 x 34 x 10 mm and foxeer is 32.5 X 32.5mm, will the largest aio fit just fine ? your help would be really appreciated. thank you.
San let. You have very little space on that frame. The capacitor is difficult to fit, so I would recommend to go with the smaller of the cards. The mamba has a double card, right? That may not fit in that frame. I think the fixer is the best candidate just because of size. And 45A is great if you are thinking to fly 6S.
@@NordFPV cant thank you enough this was a big decision for me. Should I get the official GEPRC AIO then to be on the safest side ? I found it on one website which ships to me.
@@sanketss84 well, with the official you are sure that everything will fit, you have all the ports you need and you will just copy and paste the CLI. If you go with anything else, you will need to configure everything from scratch, and tune it yourself. I'm lazy, and I will go the way of the original AIO just to avoid tuning the drone by myself.
@@sanketss84 The CLI is available in GEPRC website in the support area/downloads. GEPRC publish all the CLI for their drones in there. In my personal opinion, tuning is hard. You can live with a generic tuning, but if you want something really good, you have to do an effort, and I don't find that effort trivial. But of course, this varies from person to person.
Good question. Mine has XT60, but I bought everything separately. I don't know if you buy the BNF if it's XT30 or XT60. Sine the recommended batteries are 6S up to 1100 I would imagine XT60 is what it should have.
I just used a Dremel to open ports for the USB, SD Card and Bind button access. This frame is for analog (bad no no from GEPPRC), no way to use the existent openings on DJI O3 at least.
Really? There’s a big opening that should be used for the SD and bind button on the O3. And there’s a pocket for the receiver. Are you sure the O3 doesn’t fit there?
@@NordFPV not matter how you try it, that big opening is not help in the way you need mount the O3 to the frame, that frame is from the analog model, they should had made another frame that would accommodate the DJI O3 Air Unit, this is the general complaint about. But, I have put my Avata aside and only flying the Cinebot30 lately, great little flier
Hi. Thanks. In the case of this drone, since everything is identical to the factory drone, it’s just about downloading the CLI and copy pasting it. I think I do that process in my video of the cinelog20. Check it out.
Hi! I follow your videos with growing interest. They are of impeccable technical quality. You show how you master and love what you do. And as if that were not enough, you are quite generous sharing your knowhow with enthusiasm and contagious cheerfulness. Above all, I appreciate your dedicated concern to attend to the comments and/or questions of your followers. Good job!. Keep working! Thanks!
Thanks José. Thank you for your support.
@NordFPV I’m definitely inspired by this video to build my first FPV drone. I will continue to watch your videos with great excitement and anticipation. Can you let the community know how the footage and flight with your built Cinebot30 please? Did you connect a go pro, what remote and goggles did you use?
Hi. Unfortunately I have to be very careful with footage outdoors because local rules. But the drone flies very well and walksnail is walksnail no matter what frame you put it.
I’m not using a GoPro, I use a naked GoPro when I want to film.
I use my tx16s which you can see in my other videos about how I customize it and my walksnail goggles V1.
This is a solid guide for fixing the drone with any damage but I think you skipped one of the important things on how to arrange during "sandwich~ng" the drone together. Specifically, I am interested in where you put the elrs receiver to not cause any problem with the fc board.
Thanks. The sandwiching was actually complicated. Since I’m using walksnail and adding an extra BEC I didn’t have a lot of space inside the drone and I placed the RX under the camera plate.
If you are not using walksnail or the extra BEC there’s a pocket inside the frame where you can have the RX. Sorry I didn’t film this part but I actually got to know about it better after this tutorial was made and fix a couple of pre-builds of this drone
@@NordFPV Do you know for the O3 unit if there’s space for the RX?
I actually have mine on the way having only PNP. It was late when I know the issue of DJI FPV RC2 RXloss. So I am planning to add ELRS RX myself.
You should have enough space for the RX inside. Look at the sides, there’s this pocket where you put the receiver, just think that you reach the pocket from underneath, you have to remove the bottom plate to get it in there.
Detailed build 👍
Glad you like it
I recently had to replace the F722 45A AIO as the one that came with the BNF version decided to spit a capacitor out. I noticed during the replacement process, the location of the large capacitor is sensitive to touches to wires (probably the soldered battery leads too) as once I closed it up, the O3 air unit touches the capacitor, causing my GPS not getting read by Betaflight (there's communication with BF and the GPS lit up but the icon doesn't light up in BF). Pushed the capacitor further back and it all became okay.
Yes, things are very tight there and the capacitor was the one giving me more issues to close the drone. I have the capacitors with cables and allowed me to locate it a bit away and more secured on a “hole” next to the VTX, but you are very right. People should be cared with the location of the cap.
@@NordFPV Aha. Good idea to have cables helping in the position of the capacitor. :)
Hello! I'm having the same problem( 17:35 ) building the 6s and just adding capacitors to the XT60 cable can't solve it?(17:02) Do I have to add additional parts(18:13)?
Hi. The capacitor I have there is small, but it should be better than nothing. You have to work all the pieces and get the capacitor in certain angle so it fits.
Just about to convert my anaolg camera with a Walksnail unit so why not use the LED 12v supply for the Walksnail VTX rather than adding another BEC?
Not a bad idea. 2 things to keep in mind:
1-the led BEC is controlled by a switch. Do you want your VTX to be turned on/off by a switch?
2-you have to check it gives enough current. It should, but it needs to double check.
Amazing tutorial my friend. Very well explained 👏🏼 👌🏼 👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
Bonsoir, j’ai build un cinebot mais impossible de faire fonctionner les leds ! J.ai un AIO Rush blade F7. Il est monté en 6S. Pouvez-vous montrer vos paramètres betaflight pour les leds ? Merci beaucoup du sud de la France 🙂
Good evening, I built a cinebot but impossible to make the leds work! I have an AIO Rush blade F7. It is mounted in 6S. Can you show your betaflight settings for the leds? Thank you very much from the south of France 🙂
If you are using a different FC/AIO than the original there’s no use to show the CLI. This LED are connected to a regular pad which is controlled by re mapping the resource to give power. This is not a regular LED. If you still want to see the CLI go to GEPRC’s website and download it from their support section.
You jumped some really important steps ☹️
What’s the white cilinder like thing you soldered to the battery?
Hola Orlando. Are you asking about the capacitor? I explained at the beginning. I said that since there’s no space inside you have to solder it to the battery lead.
@@NordFPV thanks, your video is really helpful! I just crashed mine today and the plastic cap of the O3 antena fell off and can’t put it back, idk if it need some glue or something but sure it is a pretty resistant drone
@@walasfilmsif you stil have the casing of the antenna, you can just glue back on as long as the antenna wires inside look like their still looped correctly and not damaged. id recommend switching your 03 antenna for lumineer or flyfish RC antenna's . those DJI ones don't last a single crash and are.the most expensive
What the length and the width of the COB LED strip? I planning to buy another color.
Oh sorry. I never checked that information. My estimate will be something around 5mm W, by 200mm L
Hi can you tell me which propellers are you using? I cant find Hq prop t76 props in my country so i was looking for a alternative.
I’m using t76 also. I have them in stock at my shop nordfpv.con. Where are you located?
@@NordFPV I'm located in India
I am working on converting an analog CineBot30 to Walksnail using the V2 VTX w/ 32GB memory and the new "night vision" camera. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is where to mount the 4-wire to USB-C cable for uploading firmware and downloading DVR videos. I really don't want to disassemble this thing every time I need to do that stuff. Did you come up with a mounting solution? I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in this video. It looks like the frame was originally designed around a DJI Air Unit so there's plenty of vertical space but I don't see a good mount for this USB connector that is easily accessible when fully assembled. Any ideas?
Honestly, I don’t have that piece since I have a v1. But there’s not much space in there. Even if it was designed for the O3. There’s a bit of space on the opening, where the usb of the o3 will be.
What about under the action camera plate?
@@NordFPV Haha, well, I guess "plenty of vertical space" is relative. My second build ever was the RotorX Raiju, and everything since then has seemed downright spacious. For the CineBot, I ended up getting everything "in there"... eventually. It looks great from the outside, but the inside ain't pretty. The USB-C connector is just kind of wedged in somewhere it hopefully won't shake loose from. I'll have to remove the top plate to access the VTX's memory but I won't have to disassemble the bottom section, which I guess was my real worry. Maybe I'll find a better location for that connector in the future.
I know this is a year old but would this work with the walksnail moonlight 4K kit?
I think the moonlight is a bit thicker than the VTX pro, isn’t?
There was really no space left in that build, so if the VTX on the moonlight is bigger I will say it shouldn’t fit.
I was wondering if you taking any blackbox log of the CineBot 30? Particularly looking at the motor performance?
Hi Johnny. No, I haven't. I haven't had the need. Anything in particular you are looking for?
Was this build cheaper than the actual cinebot 30? how much was the full build?
No. This is the exact same build as new. It’s actually more expensive this way than buy the BNF.
Hi, May I ask you why you did not use capacitor? Thank you
I didn’t use it because it’s very tight in space and since it’s a 4S I risk it. It’s not ideal, and I will recommend you to have one.
@@NordFPV thank you very much for your answer
Hello, Nice video Thanks! please tell me which track sounds in the background
Thanks! I don’t really know the name. But i get my music from epidemic sound
@@NordFPV Urchin - Bonsaye ;)
Where did you put the capacitor?
This build is quite tight. And you should put the capacitor on the back next to the power pads. Use a small one, and make your best effort to push it in without breaking anything else.
So I'm having a lot of issues. The props are suppose to spin outward instead of inward?
I have the same cinebot30
Hi Yer. It depends how you configure it. If you haven’t touch it betaflight should have outward props. But look at motor page in betaflight it has a diagram showing the direction of each prop.
hello there, nice videos. in 16:46. you mentioned that you wont to avoid soldering and unsoldering, can you tell me what are the risks of doing so ?
No risk. Just annoying, specially in a drone like this where things are sandwiched.
@@NordFPV Ok thank you for fast reply
I will mount a flight controller upside down Now I gave 180 degree on roll axis this is ok. Now if I want to change the yaw axis with inverted placement then should I give the value of the direction in which I want to change or should I give the opposite value?
i am useing the mamba f740 mk4 aio
I believe there’s a better parameter to
Change than roll and pitch when you are doing this. But I don’t remember the name from the top of my head. It’s in the same page.
Can I flash this cinebot30 in inav ? Please reply 🙏
Sorry I have never used inav so I can’t be 100% certain, but I believe it’s possible.
Hi thanks for sharing all the knowledge of drone. I’m new to FPV drone or drone and I haven’t had one at the moment, so I’m curious what is the correct purchase because I’m planing to purchase a TBS tango 2 controller and I’m not sure if tango 2 can connect to cinebot30. I’ve also make a little research about the receiver for tango 2 which is crossfire if I’m not wrong.
I’ll like to get some advice from you as a professional
Hi. Thanks for watching. FPV has a pretty steep learning curve in the beginning. There are many radio protocols, many video systems and many manufacturers.
I will recommend to spend some hours watching RUclips videos on these topics. Decide what kind of drone do you want and then do some more research. If you have a more specific question feel free to send it my way.
@@NordFPV sure thing thank you
Hello.Can you please explain how to set the backlight in Betaflight.
Best regards.
Hi. There’s 2 important things. 1-is to have user 1 configured in your modes so you can enable and disable the light with a switch 2- is to map correctly the resources of the FC so you can connect the LED and control them.
2 can be complicated if you don’t know what you are doing with betaflight. Therefore I advice in the video to follow the configuration provided by GEPRC in their website (support). If you have the same FC as they use, and you connect it to the same pads, you can simple copy paste their config.
Keep up your videos and the good work😃👍
Thanks, will do! Any suggestion for topics is very accepted.
thx for this. im thinking of repurposing my protek 35 into something different but this looks like zero extra space internally. i just finished a pavo 25 build and luckily theres a small channel to the front/back where i was able to store the extra bits (rx, capacitor, etc) i might have to see what else betafpv has vs the cinebot =/
Yeah. The space is kind of limited, but you for the regulars: RX, VTX, AIO and BEC.
I am building my own Cinebot30 with this same frame and same motors but different ESC
trying to decide between these three AIO ESC
1. SpeedyBee F745 35A BLS AIO Flight Controller
2. Foxeer Reaper AIO V3 F745 45A BLS Bluejay 2-6S
3. Mamba MK4 F740 AIO
1. with the motors having max current of 18.8A and above ESC having more than atleast 35A they should work fine right ?
2. speedybee size is the largest at 36.5 x 36.5 x 7mm , the diatone is 34 x 34 x 10 mm and foxeer is 32.5 X 32.5mm, will the largest aio fit just fine ?
your help would be really appreciated. thank you.
San let. You have very little space on that frame. The capacitor is difficult to fit, so I would recommend to go with the smaller of the cards. The mamba has a double card, right? That may not fit in that frame. I think the fixer is the best candidate just because of size. And 45A is great if you are thinking to fly 6S.
@@NordFPV cant thank you enough this was a big decision for me. Should I get the official GEPRC AIO
then to be on the safest side ? I found it on one website which ships to me.
@@sanketss84 well, with the official you are sure that everything will fit, you have all the ports you need and you will just copy and paste the CLI. If you go with anything else, you will need to configure everything from scratch, and tune it yourself. I'm lazy, and I will go the way of the original AIO just to avoid tuning the drone by myself.
@@NordFPV where is the CLI available ? also how much effort it is if i have to tune it myself considering i have never done this ?
@@sanketss84 The CLI is available in GEPRC website in the support area/downloads. GEPRC publish all the CLI for their drones in there.
In my personal opinion, tuning is hard. You can live with a generic tuning, but if you want something really good, you have to do an effort, and I don't find that effort trivial. But of course, this varies from person to person.
Which prop are you using
I have HQProps T76 on it.
does the AIO has the xt60 ?
Good question. Mine has XT60, but I bought everything separately. I don't know if you buy the BNF if it's XT30 or XT60. Sine the recommended batteries are 6S up to 1100 I would imagine XT60 is what it should have.
I just used a Dremel to open ports for the USB, SD Card and Bind button access. This frame is for analog (bad no no from GEPPRC), no way to use the existent openings on DJI O3 at least.
Really? There’s a big opening that should be used for the SD and bind button on the O3. And there’s a pocket for the receiver. Are you sure the O3 doesn’t fit there?
@@NordFPV not matter how you try it, that big opening is not help in the way you need mount the O3 to the frame, that frame is from the analog model, they should had made another frame that would accommodate the DJI O3 Air Unit, this is the general complaint about. But, I have put my Avata aside and only flying the Cinebot30 lately, great little flier
@@RCREVIEWS101 Thanks! I got one yesterday for repair and I see you reach the USB port fine, but not the SD card. So I get it now.
Excelente video de gran ayuda 🙌🏻💯🔝
Gracias Odlanier
Please make a betaflight configurator programming vedio
You are my inspiration 🤩
Hi. Thanks. In the case of this drone, since everything is identical to the factory drone, it’s just about downloading the CLI and copy pasting it. I think I do that process in my video of the cinelog20. Check it out.
Pointless without beta flight.
Do you mean the software configuration part of this drone? I built it so you could just copy & paste from the CLI available at GEPRC's web site.