Great compilation. Just a little addition on the pigment stuff, for liquid colorants there are color pastes and inks. Color pastes are pigments suspended in an oil wich makes for a better mixing and you don't get any lumps or clusters of pigments. And inkts or tints are liquid colorants without pigments or really really fine pigments, those can move into the wood. You can also make your own color pastes from your pigments if you have issues with lumps. Or you premix the pigments in the resin part before adding the hardener, so you get all the time you need to properly mix the pigments in.
Thank you for your continued quality content. I appreciate your honest presentations, especially mistakes you've learned from along the way. I especially appreciated the last bonus tip about liquid vs. powder pigment. That was something I was not aware of, and something I will not forget.
Great content. Regarding the silicone drying issue you have had in the past, you need to pay attention to two factors: First is Tack time / Skin Time, this is generally the short time i.e. 30 minutes (marketing "rain ready in 30 mins") but watch for the "full cure time" which is usually 12-24 hours.
I've used micah powder pigment and it has also bled into the wood. If you don't want it to bleed, do a thin coat of clear epoxy around where you are pouring. Like Blacktail Studios does.
I would love your feedback. Epoxy resin over marquetry….is this a fools errand? Will the resin melt the wood glue while it cures? Will the resin cause the veneer of the wood to curl? Love to hear your thoughts
So I'm doing small pour projects, like taking natural wood pieces and filling the cracks and flat pieces of wood that have the burns in them and filling the shapes. Any tips? First couple have turned out nice but I've also sat with them for hours and blow torched the top of the epoxy every time I saw a bubble. Any self aerated epoxy brands you guys recommend?
Great video! I've worked with epoxy for over three year now and, like you, have learned some painful lessons. Bonus tip #...lost track: HAND MIX DEEP POUR EPOXY. This will eliminate 90% of the bubbles. Power mixers entrain air into the mix. All other bubbles will rise to the surface when done correctly.
One question: If you're using a liquid pigment dye and you need to seal the wood first, what product should you seal the wood with? AWESOME VIDEO AND LOVED THE BONUS TIPS! You're awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just a small amount of clear epoxy will do the trick, grab a scrap paint brush and brush it over any surface that's going to be meeting the main pour. Aside from preventing bleeding, it also helps prevent bubbles coming from the wood.
Have you finished any of your river epoxy stuff with poly? I've used it for countertops and it works great against water, which the oil/wax finishes don't seem to do near as well.
Hello, I just watched this video and it was very helpful. May I ask you a QUESTION, please? I have a slab of white oak about 2" thick I milled myself... it is a little warped... I used it as the bottom of a rustic "cowboy" bookcase (18" x 42")... but it is uneven and doesn't sit flat on the floor.... I was thinking of using epoxy to level the bottom. I would screw a dead-flat board (e.g. MDF) onto the bottom of the bookcase board which is warped and uneven (~ 3/4" max)... after first shimming the bookcase level..... then seal up the edges of where the MDF and my warped board meet... leaving open a gap where the board is warped..... then pour epoxy down the gap, filling up the void between the MDF and my warped board... then when dry, remove the MDF board on the bottom and my bookcase should then sit level on the perfectly level epoxy bottom. Does this sound do-able? ... and if so what type epoxy would you recommend (e.g. it must be able to hole 200 or 300 lbs of weight. THANK YOU!
John you mentioned not to mill the wood too much beforehand, just clamp it down. Are you saying the epoxy will bond strongly enough to straighten the boards? How big of a cup could this tolerate? Thanks, love your channel
Bark question. If you wanted to leave the bark on an exterior edge of the table. Could you use something like a penetrating resin to sleep in between the water and the bark to create a good bond between the two.
Great work, I have been wanting to do a pour for my desk forever and have chickened out every time. I did just a top clear coat, which looks great, but it's not what I wanted to do. Your tips are going to help me try to actually do it this time, lol. It doesn't help that I managed to screw up a 1:1 mix the first time. I grabbed the clear coat twice and no hardener, I got a little distracted, but should have been more careful. That is almost impossible to clean up and takes FOREVER to dry with no hardener. Ugh. I love the things you can do with epoxy though.
I recently poured an epoxy project on, in and around a oak wood slab. I filled the knots and cracks with a deep pour epoxy. All that turned out great. Then I decided to pour over the entire slab for a shiny finish. The problem I ran into was near the edges of the slab, where the sap wood was, the epoxy seemed to just absorb into the sap wood. And the rest of the slab is shiny like I wanted. What do I do now? And is there a sealer that I should have put over the entire slab before I poured the top?
Great tips, but I have been hearing too many different things on how to prep the sides of your wood to create a good bond onto your resin. I hear the best is to use a wire wheel for scuffing and then use a bonding Agent buuuuttt, I don't know what kind of bonding agent. I saw a video of some black stuff they used if you're pouring black epoxy.
@JohnMalecki I'm new to epoxy but work with other mediums...I saw you whipping the epoxy up...is that because it has to be blended quickly? If i stirred slower I would get less bubbles...but would it be setting as I stir? I noticed your guy pouring from a height which would definitely cause bubbles. Is that to help get it into all the nooks and crannies? Would it be a good idea to use a bristle brush on the edges and then pour? I know if I pour low and slow with pop or beer you get very little froth...would the same technique work with epoxy? I know when I pour warm chocolate into a mold I have to rapidly tap it to make the bubbles rise. Can this technique work with epoxy? I wouldn't lift the project but use a vibration massager like the one used on backs.
Where is a silicone tape I was grateful enough find some at work it's an inexpensive when you get it from the manufacturer when I get a chance I will post a link
Solid tips guys! I think I watched your last epoxy tips video like 4 or 5 times before I filmed my live-edge modern tv-stand pour. Almost positive those tips saved my bacon haha
Awesome video, I love your tips, they definitely helped when I did a big clear river table. Maybe it’s just me but when you use the powder colors, do you have to worry about them settling to the bottom of the pour? I’ve had a few issues with that, how do you combat that?
Question for you guys/ the community at large. Would you recommend the tyvek tape or duct tape (for hvac duct)? I've heard that they both work about the same.
Tyvek/masking. Even if they work similarly, duct tape is much thicker, and can cause some issues in overlap, leading to divots in a range of sizes, or lines. If you don't mind the extra finishing work, or it won't affect your intended finished product, go for it. Assuming they do indeed work similarly.
Great video, thanks John! Quick question - for large pours (ex. River tables), do you use the vacuum pot, or is that more for smaller pours and just use a deep pour epoxy for the large pours?
I really want to try to do an epoxy project on a very small scale I want to take a couple ceiling fans and cut them in shape as fairy wings and for the inside make epoxy center but not sure how to form them yet but I'm going to do them one of these days my space is limited I'm a beginner and just a hobbyist
Yes - If you're going to pour a base coat of epoxy and follow it up with rocks before covering with a clear, ensure you scuff the base coat with sandpaper so that you get a good mechanical bond with the clear you're going to pour.
A tip for your next one. When you're filling in small voids and holes when finishing, use *thin* UV resin. It sets quickly under the sun or a UV torch. Then you can sand it easily and the voids are gone. It's a game changer, way better than CA glue.
Perfect timing to find and subscribe to your channel. I got some walnut and I have a little bit of epoxy to play around with. Just curious, did you or do you know Matt Lentz ? I was at his wedding and sat next to Jake Long. Matt married my wife's cousin for a little while anyway.
Thursday 10 January. I just subscribed. I was wondering if you are my military brother? I’m brand new to this and trying my first project. I have really enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos. I am a disabled veteran with 20 years in the army. Would love to talk to you. Thank you.
I just retired from the Army Special Forces. Ive watched pretty much every video you guys have put out. I just wanted to let you guys know what any inspiration you've been to my woodworking. Thank for all the badass videos you put out. You're videos have helped me become a better craftsman. I look forward to your future content. STAY SQUARELY!!!
Hey! Hope everything is fine. I was researching on the internet about epoxy related things and found u most helpful. Hope I'll learn a lot more things from you. I would have made you my "epoxy guru" if u were here in India😅. Anyways thanks a lot for putting your content. ❤️🇮🇳
Thank you John, I love the style of the video of your channel! Two questions: You are the first video that I saw which use the vacuum chamber to degas resin versus a pressure pot. Is vacuum chamber remove all the bubbles? For the pump of the vacuum chamber , is a 1/4 hp strong enough for a 5 gallon vacuum chamber. Thanks in advance!
Hi Ronald, if you use a pressure pot the resin has to stay in the pot under pressure until it is fully cured. The reason being is a pressure pot doesn’t actually remove the bubbles from the resin it just compresses them so small that you can’t see them in the final project. So a pressure pot is only viable for smaller objects that can fit into the pot. On the other hand a vacuum chamber actually removes all the bubbles from the resin, but you have to be careful when you transfer it from the vacuum chamber to the mold so as not to introduce more bubbles into the final piece. As for the size of pump, you will want to make sure you get one that is able to reach 25-29 inches of Mercury to make sure you have the strongest vacuum possible. A 1/3HP pump is suitable for a .5-1 cubic foot vacuum chamber which is roughly 5-10 gallons. So a 1/4 HP pump should work fine for a 5 gallon chamber. Hope this helped, sorry it is so long.👍
Honestly ronald i dont know about the HP question, we're still learning to use the pot correctly. I will say tho, its been a great tool. Also, i think the vaccuum chamber and pressure pot do the same thing ? No
@@cayde7469 Dear KD I would like to thank you for this valuable info. This is the missing link that I need about the careful transfer of the resin to the final peace. I did not want to invest in two big pots in my shop (pressure and vaccuum). John's video and your excellent comment provide me the breakthrough that need to go forward. Do you have a RUclips channel?
Thanks for taking the time to share your videos. I've watched both of your "tips" videos, and many of your other videos, and I'm ready to do my first pour for a cookie slab end table. I've bit the bullet and ordered the EcoPoxy FlowCast Epoxy for the project. Because it's freezing winter where I am, I was planning to do the pour in our basement. Is there an odor that ocurs while the epoxy cures that I should be concerned about? I don't want to smell up the whole house. Thanks for your assistance!!!
The thumbnail’s graphic trolled me. I thought you were going to talk about the pigment’s you used. Where do I go for a solid color? I have some pigments that show slight swirls and stuff…but no solid colors like paint gives….is there such a thing?
Idea for calculating volume. Fill the river with packing peanuts, then measure the volume of the nuts. No math to accidentally screw up. Just an idea, never actually put it to the test.
CLAMP DOWN YOUR PIECE! - I just did a Big Beautiful 4 gallon pour for a 4" x 79" olive wood tree trunk, turning it into a live edge mantle with the middle rotted area cleaned out and filled with epoxy, "river style". I did EVERYTHING right, EXCEPT I did not clamp it down. perfectly level, perfect amount of resin, perfect form, etc, etc, but it FLOATED AND MOVED!! and completely screwed up the whole pour. I thought that because the resin was only on the back side and in the middle it wouldn't be a problem. by simply not clamping it down, I used another gallon+of epoxy and created at least 5 more hours of work to finish it! UGH.
I’ve used Pam for years on fiberglass molds and it works great 👍.
Great compilation. Just a little addition on the pigment stuff, for liquid colorants there are color pastes and inks. Color pastes are pigments suspended in an oil wich makes for a better mixing and you don't get any lumps or clusters of pigments. And inkts or tints are liquid colorants without pigments or really really fine pigments, those can move into the wood. You can also make your own color pastes from your pigments if you have issues with lumps. Or you premix the pigments in the resin part before adding the hardener, so you get all the time you need to properly mix the pigments in.
Thank you for your continued quality content. I appreciate your honest presentations, especially mistakes you've learned from along the way. I especially appreciated the last bonus tip about liquid vs. powder pigment. That was something I was not aware of, and something I will not forget.
Great content. Regarding the silicone drying issue you have had in the past, you need to pay attention to two factors: First is Tack time / Skin Time, this is generally the short time i.e. 30 minutes (marketing "rain ready in 30 mins") but watch for the "full cure time" which is usually 12-24 hours.
I've used micah powder pigment and it has also bled into the wood. If you don't want it to bleed, do a thin coat of clear epoxy around where you are pouring. Like Blacktail Studios does.
I would love your feedback. Epoxy resin over marquetry….is this a fools errand? Will the resin melt the wood glue while it cures? Will the resin cause the veneer of the wood to curl? Love to hear your thoughts
So I'm doing small pour projects, like taking natural wood pieces and filling the cracks and flat pieces of wood that have the burns in them and filling the shapes. Any tips? First couple have turned out nice but I've also sat with them for hours and blow torched the top of the epoxy every time I saw a bubble. Any self aerated epoxy brands you guys recommend?
For with the live edge. If there's bark involved, Total Boat has a Penetrating Epoxy that helps seal it on, before the *normal* epoxy is applied.
Great video! I've worked with epoxy for over three year now and, like you, have learned some painful lessons. Bonus tip #...lost track: HAND MIX DEEP POUR EPOXY. This will eliminate 90% of the bubbles. Power mixers entrain air into the mix. All other bubbles will rise to the surface when done correctly.
One question: If you're using a liquid pigment dye and you need to seal the wood first, what product should you seal the wood with? AWESOME VIDEO AND LOVED THE BONUS TIPS! You're awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just a small amount of clear epoxy will do the trick, grab a scrap paint brush and brush it over any surface that's going to be meeting the main pour. Aside from preventing bleeding, it also helps prevent bubbles coming from the wood.
Excellent video as always. Well presented and clearly explained, good sense of humor and no annoying music. Keep em coming.
You're a book of knowledge when it comes to wood working. Love the information
Have you finished any of your river epoxy stuff with poly? I've used it for countertops and it works great against water, which the oil/wax finishes don't seem to do near as well.
Amazing videos, the only tip I haven't seen is should I put epoxy on the wood before i do a deep pour
Hello, I just watched this video and it was very helpful.
May I ask you a QUESTION, please?
I have a slab of white oak about 2" thick I milled myself... it is a little warped... I used it as the bottom of a rustic "cowboy" bookcase (18" x 42")... but it is uneven and doesn't sit flat on the floor.... I was thinking of using epoxy to level the bottom.
I would screw a dead-flat board (e.g. MDF) onto the bottom of the bookcase board which is warped and uneven (~ 3/4" max)... after first shimming the bookcase level..... then seal up the edges of where the MDF and my warped board meet... leaving open a gap where the board is warped..... then pour epoxy down the gap, filling up the void between the MDF and my warped board... then when dry, remove the MDF board on the bottom and my bookcase should then sit level on the perfectly level epoxy bottom.
Does this sound do-able? ... and if so what type epoxy would you recommend (e.g. it must be able to hole 200 or 300 lbs of weight.
THANK YOU!
I love very much how you teach products and everything.
John you mentioned not to mill the wood too much beforehand, just clamp it down. Are you saying the epoxy will bond strongly enough to straighten the boards? How big of a cup could this tolerate? Thanks, love your channel
Can it get to cold? I was gonna dip my toe in resin over the winter and my shop will be cold cold like freezing cold. Semper Fi.
Bark question. If you wanted to leave the bark on an exterior edge of the table. Could you use something like a penetrating resin to sleep in between the water and the bark to create a good bond between the two.
Hey John. Can you make a video on liquid pigment vs dry pigment. Would love to know more of your hypothesis
Question: what choices are there for flexible vs. inflexible epoxy for projects? I'm working on smaller projects in which the wood flexes.
Great work, I have been wanting to do a pour for my desk forever and have chickened out every time. I did just a top clear coat, which looks great, but
it's not what I wanted to do. Your tips are going to help me try to actually do it this time, lol.
It doesn't help that I managed to screw up a 1:1 mix the first time. I grabbed the clear coat twice and no hardener, I got a little distracted, but
should have been more careful. That is almost impossible to clean up and takes FOREVER to dry with no hardener. Ugh. I love the things you can do
with epoxy though.
I would love it if you made a video using Purple Heart or just an exotic beginners guide using PH and zebra wood. They’re so difficult! Thanks bro
Great video and awesome tips. Thank you so much for sharing John.
Fantastic tips, John! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What moisture level do you want your slabs at before working them? Do you prefer natural drying or no?
I recently poured an epoxy project on, in and around a oak wood slab. I filled the knots and cracks with a deep pour epoxy. All that turned out great. Then I decided to pour over the entire slab for a shiny finish. The problem I ran into was near the edges of the slab, where the sap wood was, the epoxy seemed to just absorb into the sap wood. And the rest of the slab is shiny like I wanted.
What do I do now? And is there a sealer that I should have put over the entire slab before I poured the top?
Great tips, but I have been hearing too many different things on how to prep the sides of your wood to create a good bond onto your resin. I hear the best is to use a wire wheel for scuffing and then use a bonding Agent buuuuttt, I don't know what kind of bonding agent. I saw a video of some black stuff they used if you're pouring black epoxy.
I find that a REALLY good tip is to let the pros mess it up first, and learn from their mistakes.
Thank you for all the tips. You really help me begin my project.
Great informative vid John. Thanks.
Agreed
3M Red Stucco Tape also works well. Just like Tuck, Tyvek or Lowes house wrap tape, epoxy resin will not stick to it.
I’m trying to epoxy my river stone shower floor. What epoxy or sealer should I use that will give it that constant wet stone look?
love your content John and team keep it up!
What is the best technique or product to use to seal before the pour? I’m having issues with the epoxy bleeding.
Use something like total boat high performance
@JohnMalecki I'm new to epoxy but work with other mediums...I saw you whipping the epoxy up...is that because it has to be blended quickly? If i stirred slower I would get less bubbles...but would it be setting as I stir?
I noticed your guy pouring from a height which would definitely cause bubbles. Is that to help get it into all the nooks and crannies? Would it be a good idea to use a bristle brush on the edges and then pour? I know if I pour low and slow with pop or beer you get very little froth...would the same technique work with epoxy? I know when I pour warm chocolate into a mold I have to rapidly tap it to make the bubbles rise. Can this technique work with epoxy? I wouldn't lift the project but use a vibration massager like the one used on backs.
Where is a silicone tape I was grateful enough find some at work it's an inexpensive when you get it from the manufacturer when I get a chance I will post a link
Level, level, level your project!
You guys could always ask me for epoxy tips!!! 😂 j/k great content broham!
When you say to 'Seal if using a liquid pigment' what do you use to seal it?
We have hello fresh in Australia and it’s awesome
I’m doing a bottle cap card table.The pour area is 1/2 inch deep what kind of resin should I use?
Great tips, John! Can't wait to see you use these tips in your upcoming projects!
4:17 Just learned that sausage is a capsule in geometric forms. Nice!
Solid tips guys! I think I watched your last epoxy tips video like 4 or 5 times before I filmed my live-edge modern tv-stand pour. Almost positive those tips saved my bacon haha
If it matters, I best enjoy the informative/ educational videos! Great video! I’d like to see more of these
Have you ever built a custom fireplace mantle?
Awesome video, I love your tips, they definitely helped when I did a big clear river table. Maybe it’s just me but when you use the powder colors, do you have to worry about them settling to the bottom of the pour? I’ve had a few issues with that, how do you combat that?
Awesome build crew 🤘
Question for you guys/ the community at large. Would you recommend the tyvek tape or duct tape (for hvac duct)? I've heard that they both work about the same.
Tyvek/masking. Even if they work similarly, duct tape is much thicker, and can cause some issues in overlap, leading to divots in a range of sizes, or lines. If you don't mind the extra finishing work, or it won't affect your intended finished product, go for it. Assuming they do indeed work similarly.
What type/brand of pressure pot do you use?
Let’s go Pens!!!! That’s friggin awesome!
Great video, thanks John! Quick question - for large pours (ex. River tables), do you use the vacuum pot, or is that more for smaller pours and just use a deep pour epoxy for the large pours?
Sorry I am a little confused. You use the pressure vacuum before you pour it in the mold???
Yes, it removed bubbles.
I really want to try to do an epoxy project on a very small scale I want to take a couple ceiling fans and cut them in shape as fairy wings and for the inside make epoxy center but not sure how to form them yet but I'm going to do them one of these days my space is limited I'm a beginner and just a hobbyist
Where do you get your epoxy resin for deep pour we are beginning to prepare for our first time and we want to get it right the first time
Can you pour two layers of epoxy on top of each other? I am thinking about using epoxy with river rock as a floor
Yes - If you're going to pour a base coat of epoxy and follow it up with rocks before covering with a clear, ensure you scuff the base coat with sandpaper so that you get a good mechanical bond with the clear you're going to pour.
Could you use something like pentacryl on the wood and bark before pouring epoxy? would that work? curious...
Have never heard of this product, so i cant really speak to if it'll work
If pouring twice on a table bec I didn’t make enough how long do I have to wait in between and is it ok to use 2 different epoxies?
A tip for your next one. When you're filling in small voids and holes when finishing, use *thin* UV resin. It sets quickly under the sun or a UV torch. Then you can sand it easily and the voids are gone. It's a game changer, way better than CA glue.
UV resin...can you recommend a good brand?
@@murc111 not really. I just get the eBay ones.
Perfect timing to find and subscribe to your channel. I got some walnut and I have a little bit of epoxy to play around with. Just curious, did you or do you know Matt Lentz ? I was at his wedding and sat next to Jake Long. Matt married my wife's cousin for a little while anyway.
Thursday 10 January. I just subscribed. I was wondering if you are my military brother? I’m brand new to this and trying my first project. I have really enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos. I am a disabled veteran with 20 years in the army. Would love to talk to you. Thank you.
Thanks for all the great tips!
You are A 'Epoxy God' Well your really really good and your tips have saved my well you know Wallet
Thank you for the info and all the tips.
This man knows his stuff!! hey helped me with my first ever pour when I was making my floating desk!! Love your vids brother keep up the awesome vids!
If a person was going to pour a dining room table with bread board ends you see any issue with that?
I just retired from the Army Special Forces. Ive watched pretty much every video you guys have put out. I just wanted to let you guys know what any inspiration you've been to my woodworking. Thank for all the badass videos you put out. You're videos have helped me become a better craftsman. I look forward to your future content. STAY SQUARELY!!!
They make a blue silicone tape but it is kinda pricey fiberglast is a great supplier
John. Can you put a link to your vacuum pump. Thanks
it is in the description !
Can I do a pour and add gold leaf to pour?
I’d love to be able to pour epoxy first.
Hey! Hope everything is fine. I was researching on the internet about epoxy related things and found u most helpful. Hope I'll learn a lot more things from you. I would have made you my "epoxy guru" if u were here in India😅. Anyways thanks a lot for putting your content. ❤️🇮🇳
i use $4 dollar packing tape and it works amazingly never had epoxy stick to it, you dont need tyvek tape or tuct tape they are just tested
Shrinkage/// I WAS IN THE POOL. sorry had to great video thanks for the info
Good info john.ty
Valuable tips🖤
Cheers🍻
Can you post a link to the previous video? The stupid RUclips app went somewhere else and I can’t find it again.
Thank you John, I love the style of the video of your channel! Two questions: You are the first video that I saw which use the vacuum chamber to degas resin versus a pressure pot. Is vacuum chamber remove all the bubbles? For the pump of the vacuum chamber , is a 1/4 hp strong enough for a 5 gallon vacuum chamber. Thanks in advance!
Hi Ronald, if you use a pressure pot the resin has to stay in the pot under pressure until it is fully cured. The reason being is a pressure pot doesn’t actually remove the bubbles from the resin it just compresses them so small that you can’t see them in the final project. So a pressure pot is only viable for smaller objects that can fit into the pot. On the other hand a vacuum chamber actually removes
all the bubbles from the resin, but you have to be careful when you transfer it from the vacuum chamber to the mold so as not to introduce more bubbles into the final piece. As for the size of pump, you will want to make sure you get one that is able to reach 25-29 inches of Mercury to make sure you have the strongest vacuum possible. A 1/3HP pump is suitable for a .5-1 cubic foot vacuum chamber which is roughly 5-10 gallons. So a 1/4 HP pump should work fine for a 5 gallon chamber. Hope this helped, sorry it is so long.👍
Honestly ronald i dont know about the HP question, we're still learning to use the pot correctly. I will say tho, its been a great tool. Also, i think the vaccuum chamber and pressure pot do the same thing ? No
@@cayde7469 Dear KD I would like to thank you for this valuable info. This is the missing link that I need about the careful transfer of the resin to the final peace. I did not want to invest in two big pots in my shop (pressure and vaccuum). John's video and your excellent comment provide me the breakthrough that need to go forward. Do you have a RUclips channel?
Thanks!
Great job!! Thank you
I've got wood working class and am considering making an epoxy table
Pre-proportioned parts
I would like to know how to clean a epoxy bucket after you pore
John, where can a man pick up a copy of the Ron Swanson portrait in your shop?
How dry is dry wood?
Thanks for taking the time to share your videos. I've watched both of your "tips" videos, and many of your other videos, and I'm ready to do my first pour for a cookie slab end table. I've bit the bullet and ordered the EcoPoxy FlowCast Epoxy for the project. Because it's freezing winter where I am, I was planning to do the pour in our basement. Is there an odor that ocurs while the epoxy cures that I should be concerned about? I don't want to smell up the whole house. Thanks for your assistance!!!
bonus bonus tip let john do all your pouring and learn from his mistakes
The thumbnail’s graphic trolled me. I thought you were going to talk about the pigment’s you used.
Where do I go for a solid color? I have some pigments that show slight swirls and stuff…but no solid colors like paint gives….is there such a thing?
Great tips. Thank you. Great channel.
Music, repeating over and over, at same volume as your voice, not so much.
Love the presentation and patter.
Purposely cause the epoxy to go exothermal and crack and then fill it with epoxy
this is sick
Lower the music or ditch it. Distracts your info. Otherwise great vid 👍🏼
Buenos días Brasil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷👍👍
Tip about tape, don't tape around and to the other side on the edges, if the epoxy finds that spot it will go under it and passed to the other side.
You are fcken great!
Idea for calculating volume. Fill the river with packing peanuts, then measure the volume of the nuts. No math to accidentally screw up. Just an idea, never actually put it to the test.
Maybe, if you have time for all those nuts haha
Wax your melamine instead of tape… works a treat and application is way easier
no melting issues ? I'll give it a try
Spray mold release on melamine works fine. Melamine alone? No.
Great tips thanks, I’m getting ready to get my feet wet.
CLAMP DOWN YOUR PIECE! - I just did a Big Beautiful 4 gallon pour for a 4" x 79" olive wood tree trunk, turning it into a live edge mantle with the middle rotted area cleaned out and filled with epoxy, "river style". I did EVERYTHING right, EXCEPT I did not clamp it down. perfectly level, perfect amount of resin, perfect form, etc, etc, but it FLOATED AND MOVED!! and completely screwed up the whole pour. I thought that because the resin was only on the back side and in the middle it wouldn't be a problem. by simply not clamping it down, I used another gallon+of epoxy and created at least 5 more hours of work to finish it! UGH.
Hey Jason, That is a great tip and I am sorry to hear that. Hopefully the fix worked for you!