Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Hi from New Zealand, thank you for this great tutorial. I get excited when I want to learn new projects, but then I get anxiety. But I try & push myself & after watching this video...well I'm goanna give it ago. I'm happy to to start a new project & I'm happy to be a new subscriber, thanx loads looking forward to watching more from you 🥰
I’m new to this resin thing but after making a bottle top table for my bar I’m keen to move onto bigger and better. The polishing video will help me as I move ahead, thanks.👍
Thank you wish to start making knife scales using wood and epoxy this tutorial has taught me so much and saved me money as in sanding discs i now know the correct ones to purchase thanks again
your videos very detailed..thank you for sharing this video sir i learn a lot with this...🎉🎉🎉🎉 please make more tutorial video like this. God bless you always❤
Good video on polishing epoxy, however the danish oil finish doesn't protect the wood from getting stained/stripped off by the polishing compound as you can easily see at 10:50, and from my experience as a woodworker who works with epoxy every day this is something I still struggle with to find a solution, would be nice if there was actually a good method in polishing the epoxy without messing up the wooden sides other than just epoxying the entire wooden surface just to be able to evenly sand/polish the river
THANK YOU...THIS IS THE $64,000 QUESTION! To complicate it even further, I don't like wood to have the unnatural glassy look of epoxy. I would much rather have a satin look on the wood. (BTW, I asked almost the same Q here 11:49 before I saw yours. I notice he answered all the questions except yours. I.have not seen ANYONE address this critical issue. I do hope he answers.
This answers my question, thank you! Incase anyone else is struggling with this same problem. I'll explain my situation... I make Chess boards. Half the squares wood, the other half epoxy. Obviously I can't sand just the epoxy squares without getting the wood. I was wondering what the point of finishing was if the buffer was going to remove material. Now I understand. I guess the only way to seal the wood properly would be to cover it in something that has the same strength at the epoxy and that brings us back to finishing the entire thing with epoxy so it can all be polished to the same level. Thanks again guys. Looks like I have a choice between leaving the wood exposed or coating it in epoxy.
Gonna be rewatching this because seeing multiple passes is new to me! Can this be applied to a resin table top that has a few flowers sticking out so it can be a flat shiny surface?
The flowers should really be fully encapsulated in the resin which will prevent them from absorbing moisture and decaying any further. If they are protruding from the surface then you should cut the flowers back flush and sand out a small amount of resin around the flowers, you can fill with a small quantity of resin to seal them in place. This can then be sanded flat and polished as demonstrated in the video. Alternatively you could cut the flowers back to the surface and apply a 2mm coating of GlassCast 3. GlassCast 3 cures with a flat glossy finish so you shouldn't then need to do any more finishing work.
Whilst GlassCast can come up very shiny for a cosmetic resin it doesn't what would be classed as optical clarity. If this is something you're looking to achieve, you may want to consider PC15 which is an ultra clear PU resin that can give optical clarity. The downside to this is that it is classed as a professional grade resin and can be quite difficult to use, it is very sensitive to moisture/humidity and ideally needs degassing prior to casting. www.easycomposites.co.uk/water-clear-polyurethane-casting-resin
For the most transparency then you you would need to polish both sides of the resin. If the resin is pigmented with a tint or a solid colour then often it's not required to do quite as much finishing work as on the top side of the surface.
Thanks Richard, it put us a bit of time to put this one together - not the actual filming/editing but the planning because we know its one area which causes a lot of headaches, especially if someone hasn't done a lot of sanding and polishing before and we wanted to make sure we covered everything including useful tips we've picked up through the years. Sanding and polishing can be really quite satisfying when you get the hang of it 🙂
Great video, very well executed! One thing I didn't see addressed - should this be done on both sides of the piece? I imagine yes as if the bottom is not as clear as the top you'll see that as you look through it. I've made several river tables, though all with a dark epoxy - not see through, so I sand the bottom up to 180, while the top is sanded to 800 (on the epoxy part).
Thanks for the feedback. Correct If you wanted to be able to see through the entire piece with clarity then you would also need to polish up the underside of the 'river'. If, as in your case the bottom side is hidden then you can do as much or as little finishing as you please.
We'd always recommend sending a piece through a planer thicknesser or setting up a router sled (as in our river table tutorial) to achieve a flat top surface before sanding and polishing. Although in theory you could sand it flat a) it would take a huge amount of time and b) the chance of ending up with a perfectly consistent flat top would be incredibly low.
@@glasscastresin right but I’m talking single dimensional, horizontal objects with no curves. Flat items require much less nuance. If you have a DA and ROS, you just move up grit. But applying epoxy and sanding down surfaces on a dynamic object is usually what people struggle with. Mastering a flat surface does not make one a master of non flat surfaces
I was so worried how i will be able to polish epoxy when its mixed with wood. Thank you for disclosing that! Do you think its a good idea to oil and also polish the wood?
Hi, it entirely depends on your personal preference when it comes to finishing. I would recommend some kind of treatment prior to polishing the resin as it will protect the wood from potential staining from the polish used on the resin.
I want to cut narrow strips out of a decorative epoxy slab that I poured and then be able to polish the strips and glue them together around her rectangular stainless steel box. How do I glue the strips in the box and how do I glue epoxy to epoxy?
You can use a clear epoxy adhesive such as ET500 which will bond both the epoxy and wood to the metalwork. Just be sure to prepare the surfaces with 120 grit key to promote bonding. A degrease on the metal will also be advised. www.easycomposites.co.uk/rigid-5min-epoxy-adhesive
Thank you so much for your nice video, I have a question please help me how can I use epoxy resin on basin and old basin and how to make perfect and glass glossy smooth finishing
Thank you. Quick question. I know in the video you had finished the wood. And then you continue to polish the epoxy. However, in the end it look like you took off some finish of the wood. So did you go back and finish the wood again?
It's inevitable that in polishing the resin the pad will cross over onto the wood and take off some of the coating. It's perfectly fine to go back and top this coating up once polishing is finished. It's recommended to give the wood a good clean first to remove any polishing compound which may have transferred onto the surface so as not to trap it under another layer of wood finish.
Hi, thank you for this great tutorial 👍 I will do same steps but ı have question mark. You apply that polish also to wood. Are those polish can apply also for woods? Should ı apply only resin part or both of them? I wish that; ı explained my self clear 😊
Its only really for polishing the resin itself and would be best to avoid getting it onto the wood as if it gets into the grain, it might alter the appearance of the wood itself.
The oil in the instance is to protect the wood from the polishing compound used on the resin and prevent it staining. Once the resin has been polished the wood can be retreated and finished appropriately.
Ive always learned from epoxy video’s that you need to sand you wood till 400 grit and not higher. Because then the wood will not absorb the wood oil. Why did you also sand the wood till 800 grit ? And not only the epoxy part ?
Hi Tim, in our experience there is no problem with oils and waxes adhering up to 800 grit on the wood. Secondly, if you did not sand the wood at the 800 grit stage, you may notice a dip in the resin.
If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.
Hi Phil, you should be able to clean away most of the remaining polish with a damp cloth. The wood preservative (oil in our case) should be enough to prevent it from staining to much an and make cleaning the residue off fairly easy. It may want another coat of oil once finished polishing.
Hi there! Your video was substantially more informative than at least 100 others I have seen on RUclips. I would like to ask, however, the f the polishing should be done both before AND after the seal coat and flood coats. I have yet to find my answer on any video with the hashtag ,"instruction; how to build river epoxy table from start to finish"
If you can still see the scratch marks from a more course abrasive then yes you need to go back a step or two and remove them. You don't want to move onto a finer grade until all of the scratches have disappeared. Once they have, you can move onto a finer grit.
Hi there very useful video! I personally make art clocks using acrylic paint and to finish them off i put resin top coat over it (possibly 2 thin layers) would this process work for me? Thanks in advance
That's difficult to say as it depends how well it is looked after - in normal use, it should stand up well but if heavy objects are dragged across the surface or if keys/utensils for example are used directly onto the surface, it may begin to scuff. However, it could be polished back up as scratches and surface marring is likely to be very light.
First, thanks for the detailed video. Very informative. Is there a con to wet sanding the whole project? Always wondered why wet sanding begins after a certain amount of sanding was already completed.
That was an awesome video. Do you typically add a finish to the entire piece after finishing or leave the glass-like epoxy untreated, and just finish the wood? If adding a finish to both wood and epoxy what do you use?
Hi David. Once polished, the resin already has its finish so there's no need to treat with any further product. Also any waxes or oils will simply sit on the surface and wipe off rather than being absorbed into the surface. The wood on the other hand can be treated and finished as per personal preference.
It is entirely dependant on the finish of the surface to begin with. Good smooth finishes will need less material removing whereas a rougher texture will need more taking off in order to remove any blemishes.
un grand merci pour ces explications tres utile pour mon projet. je n arrive pas a obtenir une surface correct ( les rayures apparraissent a parir du gain 320 et sont de plus en plu présentes jisqu au grain 3000 !) . des paquest se forment sous les diques et le resutat est horrible. je vais suivre vos conseils et acheter les disques de ponçage que vous conseillez dans cette vidéo. encore merci et bravo pour ce partage.
It's better to use a dry sander for the initial stages as the dust can be extracted and its easier to see the areas which need more attention. When you get down to the finer grades of abrasive then you can switch to wet sanding.
Thank you for a great tutorial. Can you recommend a tool for smaller pieces of resin? I’m working on coasters, so an orbital sander feels excessive for the size. I use GlassCast resin and it is brilliant, never had any issues with it unlike others that I’ve tried.
The good thing about a random orbital sander like this is that it has a random path, it's not just rotational which means you get a really nice finish with minimal sanding marks. For small pieces you might find a detail sander more appropriate.
What kind of marker are you using. Is it a Permanent marker? Wet erase? what size tip? I'd hate to pick up the wrong type and graffiti the project LOL Nice video Thanks
Just a regular permanent marker but be careful to not get it onto the untreated wood as the ink could bleed into the porous surface - keep it on the cured epoxy only.
If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.
It depends if you need a glossy finish on both sides and the transparency of the resin. For coloured resin you will probably be able to get away without particularly smooth finish however a clear or tinted resin may benefit from a good finish on both sides for best results.
The sander should be set to a medium speed and care taken not to apply too much pressure to the surface, to fast and too hot can cause the resin to overheat and soften which can cause deeper marks. If you are still seeing scratches then you'll need to keep on at the next finest grade and not move onto the next step until they all disappear.
I have watched a few other videos and several people seem to be over sanding, all the way down to 5-10k grit. Seems crazy. With a good compound/polish combo, 1500 seems enough? Have you ever felt the need to sand beyond 1500? Thank you
I have a few questions about the NW1 and Topfinish 2 polishing compounds. 1) Are they sold anywhere under a smaller quantity? I don't have many resin things to use it on. 2) Can I use it with a dremel tool on small resin projects? 3) If it *can* be used with a dremel tool, what would be the recommended buffing bit?
I can answer you, or i can try at least. So, yes, you can use your dremmel toold with this paste. You can find some other polishing paste from different suplier that does the job and in small quantities ( Meguiars). And you can buff it with the wool disk.
Yes; it needs to be fully cured prior to sanding and the longer you can leave it after the initial cure, the harder and therefore easier to sand and polish it will become.
Hi Robert, the only difference if you were doing a darker colour is that you may wish to use the NW1 and TopFinish black rather than the white. Everything else would be exactly the same.
I would have thought so, its a fairly generic sanding/polishing process. Just be sure not to overheat the resin, if you sand/polish too aggressively you could soften and melt the surface.
First timer here. laser engraved a flag in some mahogany. Did seal with shellac but one area of surface bubbles started to form so I torched. Think I spent too much time in one area and got a hardened blob that I was lucky enough to be able to scrape off with a popsicle stick. Took the rest of the resin off so it’s basically just “wet” no real buildup other than in the engraved portion. When this hardens/cures I plan on sanding again and doing another flood coat. While I don’t want coating to be thick, I do want the surface to be flat and not able to feel texture of non engraved portions. Any tips/suggestions? Just using clear no color. FYI, This is my backup piece, my first attempt ended in prickly bumps that I sanded down to do something similar in the video, but got many small deep white pockets of resin dust that are not aesthetically pleasing nor easy to fix (they are probably original bubble paths).
Hi Wayne, You're probably best treating this resin layer as another sealing coat which should eliminate the bubbles, as you say it will have filled the engraving and will now give you a completely flat surface once sanded down. I would just give the surface a light flat and key with 120, leaving a slight amount of resin on the surface. You can then go ahead with the 2mm flood coating which is the thickness that the resin needs to properly self level. You might also be able to recover your first attempt by vacuuming the surface to try and pull the dust from the holes and then recoating again with resin.
@@glasscastresin I was hellbent on trying to wet and wipe it with alcohol, never even thought of vacuum! First attempt might be salvageable! Thanks. The 2nd attempt dried up pretty good over night just some barely visible lines where I scraped and didn’t see but nothing a light sanding won’t fix as you said. Only thing I’m concerned about is where I originally had the “crust” issue. It’s just a tad more textured. Hopefully with the sanding it’ll knock it all down. Thank you soooo much for the pretty quick and helpful reply!
Great video and very helpful. You used Danish oil to seal the wood before polishing with the compound. How long after sealing do you have to wait to polish. Is it possible to use like an Odies oil to seal before polishing as well?
It is not a product we have tested. However it looks to be made of oils and waxes so is likely to offer similar levels of protection. However test on a small area first to be safe.
This is the first video I’ve come across that has helped me clearly understand how to sand and polish resin. Thank you 🙏🏻
Glad you found it helpful!
Was that a message disc
@@randyhakes9050huh?
Me too 👍
After staring at my first dull Resin effort and wondering why I couldn't get it to look clear, hey presto 1 video later and I can smile again, thanks.
Finally i understand how to sand and polish my resin and can finally complete the 2 side tables i have created. Thankyou
Best of luck finishing your tables.
Atleast i find the perfect video for the perfect way to polishing thanks
Thanks for the tutorial amazing results!
and dont forget..if you polish a table its still a table!
Thanks for watching.
Excellent video cheers
Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
now i know what the diff between rotary and dual action. how and when to use it. thank u.
Glad we could help.
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Finally an alternative to extremely expensive 3M products! *Thanks*
I feel like a took a really great course today! I’m ready to finish up this counter top I started 4 years ago!! Thank you!👊🏼🙌🏼🙏🏼
Best of luck finishing it off
This tutorial is well overdue. I was asking about this from you 3-4 years ago but thankfully RUclips saved the day back then
Mmm, sorry we didn’t have this video when you needed it but glad you found what you were looking for. I hope the project worked out well 👍.
Geez, sorry he didn't work around your schedule. 😂
Hi from New Zealand, thank you for this great tutorial. I get excited when I want to learn new projects, but then I get anxiety. But I try & push myself & after watching this video...well I'm goanna give it ago. I'm happy to to start a new project & I'm happy to be a new subscriber, thanx loads looking forward to watching more from you 🥰
Just huge thank you from USA!!!
You're very welcome, hope the tutorial helps.
Thanks for this tutorial. You sounded very professional. I can't wait to try.
Thank you for commenting, glad you enjoyed the video!
Finally, a decent instructional video. Thank you
We really appreciate the kind comment, glad you enjoyed!
Absolutely great video, thank you.
Thank you for this very informative video!!! Well done and very descriptive, covering all the bases 👍
I’m new to this resin thing but after making a bottle top table for my bar I’m keen to move onto bigger and better. The polishing video will help me as I move ahead, thanks.👍
It is our please Anthony, glad to hear it has been useful :)
Thank you wish to start making knife scales using wood and epoxy this tutorial has taught me so much and saved me money as in sanding discs i now know the correct ones to purchase thanks again
Perfect. Thank you for being so detailed.
Thanks Jerry, glad you enjoyed the video!
your videos very detailed..thank you for sharing this video sir i learn a lot with this...🎉🎉🎉🎉 please make more tutorial video like this. God bless you always❤
Thanks for the feedback, keep an eye out for our next tutorial project.
What a very informative video , found it very useful , and very easy on the eye so it was easy to watch
Thanks Terry, glad you found it useful :)
Thankyou this was. really very clear and helpful tutorial. Want to buy some materials.
Excellent demo on the product, will be trying this process out on some knives for my channel. Thanks again!
Thanks Sweetknives :)
Good video on polishing epoxy, however the danish oil finish doesn't protect the wood from getting stained/stripped off by the polishing compound as you can easily see at 10:50, and from my experience as a woodworker who works with epoxy every day this is something I still struggle with to find a solution, would be nice if there was actually a good method in polishing the epoxy without messing up the wooden sides other than just epoxying the entire wooden surface just to be able to evenly sand/polish the river
THANK YOU...THIS IS THE $64,000 QUESTION! To complicate it even further, I don't like wood to have the unnatural glassy look of epoxy. I would much rather have a satin look on the wood.
(BTW, I asked almost the same Q here 11:49 before I saw yours. I notice he answered all the questions except yours. I.have not seen ANYONE address this critical issue. I do hope he answers.
This answers my question, thank you!
Incase anyone else is struggling with this same problem. I'll explain my situation...
I make Chess boards. Half the squares wood, the other half epoxy. Obviously I can't sand just the epoxy squares without getting the wood. I was wondering what the point of finishing was if the buffer was going to remove material. Now I understand. I guess the only way to seal the wood properly would be to cover it in something that has the same strength at the epoxy and that brings us back to finishing the entire thing with epoxy so it can all be polished to the same level. Thanks again guys. Looks like I have a choice between leaving the wood exposed or coating it in epoxy.
Could the wood be taped to protect it from the polish, or no?
Thanks for a great video, and a Nice website.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for this tutorial, it worked wonders 🎉
Thank you for making this video!
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
a massive thank you
Amazing video
Thank you so much this is an amazing video!!!
Ahora si entendí cómo lijar y pulir el epoxy. Gracias..!
WOW! Very nice. Nice presentation. I'll be using these tips in my current project. Thanks
Thank Roy, I'm glad it has proved useful to you - let us know how you get on with your project! :)
Great video! Super helpful
What an awesome video thanks
Abone oldum bildirimleri açtım ve ürünleri satın alacam gerçekten eğitici be çok bilgilendirici bir video içerik olmuş teşekkür ederim 🙏🏼
Great video ... thanks!
How do you keep a smile on your face during the whole process 😅
You just have to keep imagining the end result. 😆
very helpful video
love u & ❤❤I like this job very much, I will start very soon InshAllah
Thanks, very well done!
Gonna be rewatching this because seeing multiple passes is new to me! Can this be applied to a resin table top that has a few flowers sticking out so it can be a flat shiny surface?
The flowers should really be fully encapsulated in the resin which will prevent them from absorbing moisture and decaying any further. If they are protruding from the surface then
you should cut the flowers back flush and sand out a small amount of resin around the flowers, you can fill with a small quantity of resin to seal them in place. This can then be sanded flat and polished as demonstrated in the video. Alternatively you could cut the flowers back to the surface and apply a 2mm coating of GlassCast 3. GlassCast 3 cures with a flat glossy finish so you shouldn't then need to do any more finishing work.
Fantastic tutorial 👍🏻
Fabulous video I will be adding those to my list for sure
Thanks Tracey :)
This video is very helpful for me
Glad it could be of use :)
Perfect done !!! 😍
Great and simple lesson 😉
Coming back to this after a year so I can make mid tier optical lenses
Whilst GlassCast can come up very shiny for a cosmetic resin it doesn't what would be classed as optical clarity. If this is something you're looking to achieve, you may want to consider PC15 which is an ultra clear PU resin that can give optical clarity. The downside to this is that it is classed as a professional grade resin and can be quite difficult to use, it is very sensitive to moisture/humidity and ideally needs degassing prior to casting.
www.easycomposites.co.uk/water-clear-polyurethane-casting-resin
Do you polish the bottom to be the same?
For the most transparency then you you would need to polish both sides of the resin. If the resin is pigmented with a tint or a solid colour then often it's not required to do quite as much finishing work as on the top side of the surface.
Fantastic video. So useful. Thank you! Instantly subscribed and bought several products from your site!
Glad you found the video useful!
Nicely done!
Comprehensive ...very well done
Thanks Richard, it put us a bit of time to put this one together - not the actual filming/editing but the planning because we know its one area which causes a lot of headaches, especially if someone hasn't done a lot of sanding and polishing before and we wanted to make sure we covered everything including useful tips we've picked up through the years. Sanding and polishing can be really quite satisfying when you get the hang of it 🙂
Great video, very well executed! One thing I didn't see addressed - should this be done on both sides of the piece? I imagine yes as if the bottom is not as clear as the top you'll see that as you look through it.
I've made several river tables, though all with a dark epoxy - not see through, so I sand the bottom up to 180, while the top is sanded to 800 (on the epoxy part).
Thanks for the feedback. Correct If you wanted to be able to see through the entire piece with clarity then you would also need to polish up the underside of the 'river'. If, as in your case the bottom side is hidden then you can do as much or as little finishing as you please.
When staining wood, I guess you wouldn’t want to sand up to 1200? Maybe stop on the wood around 320 and keep sanding the epoxy?
I do love this - only problem is it's always done with PERFECTLY flat surfaces and most people don't struggle with that
We'd always recommend sending a piece through a planer thicknesser or setting up a router sled (as in our river table tutorial) to achieve a flat top surface before sanding and polishing. Although in theory you could sand it flat a) it would take a huge amount of time and b) the chance of ending up with a perfectly consistent flat top would be incredibly low.
@@glasscastresin right but I’m talking single dimensional, horizontal objects with no curves. Flat items require much less nuance. If you have a DA and ROS, you just move up grit. But applying epoxy and sanding down surfaces on a dynamic object is usually what people struggle with. Mastering a flat surface does not make one a master of non flat surfaces
I was so worried how i will be able to polish epoxy when its mixed with wood. Thank you for disclosing that! Do you think its a good idea to oil and also polish the wood?
Hi, it entirely depends on your personal preference when it comes to finishing. I would recommend some kind of treatment prior to polishing the resin as it will protect the wood from potential staining from the polish used on the resin.
Very useful video - thank you
Thanks John, we really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I'm glad that you enjoyed!
Awesome video, thanks so much! I am exploring setting in stones with my epoxy, any suggestions on sanding process for this?
If the stones are covered completely then the process is the same. If trying to sand around stones sticking out, that would be much more fiddly.
I want to cut narrow strips out of a decorative epoxy slab that I poured and then be able to polish the strips and glue them together around her rectangular stainless steel box. How do I glue the strips in the box and how do I glue epoxy to epoxy?
You can use a clear epoxy adhesive such as ET500 which will bond both the epoxy and wood to the metalwork. Just be sure to prepare the surfaces with 120 grit key to promote bonding. A degrease on the metal will also be advised. www.easycomposites.co.uk/rigid-5min-epoxy-adhesive
Oh, and great video....:)
Thank you so much for your nice video, I have a question please help me how can I use epoxy resin on basin and old basin and how to make perfect and glass glossy smooth finishing
Business in the front, party at the back. Nice.
This comment should be the top comment
top man this was perfect!
Thanks for the feedback, glad its been useful :)
Thank you. Quick question. I know in the video you had finished the wood. And then you continue to polish the epoxy. However, in the end it look like you took off some finish of the wood. So did you go back and finish the wood again?
It's inevitable that in polishing the resin the pad will cross over onto the wood and take off some of the coating. It's perfectly fine to go back and top this coating up once polishing is finished. It's recommended to give the wood a good clean first to remove any polishing compound which may have transferred onto the surface so as not to trap it under another layer of wood finish.
Great vid thanks
Thanks Randall, glad you enjoyed it 👍
Hi, thank you for this great tutorial 👍 I will do same steps but ı have question mark. You apply that polish also to wood. Are those polish can apply also for woods? Should ı apply only resin part or both of them?
I wish that; ı explained my self clear 😊
Its only really for polishing the resin itself and would be best to avoid getting it onto the wood as if it gets into the grain, it might alter the appearance of the wood itself.
How well does the danish oil work with such high grits?! Nornally these oils have a sweet spot between 120 to 240 max.
The oil in the instance is to protect the wood from the polishing compound used on the resin and prevent it staining. Once the resin has been polished the wood can be retreated and finished appropriately.
Ive always learned from epoxy video’s that you need to sand you wood till 400 grit and not higher. Because then the wood will not absorb the wood oil. Why did you also sand the wood till 800 grit ? And not only the epoxy part ?
Hi Tim, in our experience there is no problem with oils and waxes adhering up to 800 grit on the wood. Secondly, if you did not sand the wood at the 800 grit stage, you may notice a dip in the resin.
Thank you for this. How much product and materials would I need for a bar top that measures 22ft x 2.5ft?
Assuming you mean how much resin would be required. You'd need a 15kg kit for our GlassCast3 to cover a countertop of this size.
Do you have to polish both sides of the project? Great tutorial 😁
If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.
I see quite a notable discolouration to the wood where the polish has made its way into the grain of the wood. Any tips for removing that?
Hi Phil, you should be able to clean away most of the remaining polish with a damp cloth. The wood preservative (oil in our case) should be enough to prevent it from staining to much an and make cleaning the residue off fairly easy. It may want another coat of oil once finished polishing.
Thanks for the step by step video. I’m wondering if you wore a specific mask during sanding?
A good quality P2 or better quality mask is recommended for epoxy sanding dust.
Hi there! Your video was substantially more informative than at least 100 others I have seen on RUclips. I would like to ask, however, the f the polishing should be done both before AND after the seal coat and flood coats. I have yet to find my answer on any video with the hashtag ,"instruction; how to build river epoxy table from start to finish"
You only generally polish as a final stage to finish off the project.
What do I do if I can still see squiggle lines after doing all of the steps including the polishing? Do I need to start over again at 400? Maybe 600
If you can still see the scratch marks from a more course abrasive then yes you need to go back a step or two and remove them. You don't want to move onto a finer grade until all of the scratches have disappeared. Once they have, you can move onto a finer grit.
Hi there very useful video! I personally make art clocks using acrylic paint and to finish them off i put resin top coat over it (possibly 2 thin layers) would this process work for me? Thanks in advance
Hi Ben,
Yes the resin polishing process will still be the same. As long as you don't sand too much and break through the resin into the paint.
I wonder how long will this last before you need to repeat the polish process?
That's difficult to say as it depends how well it is looked after - in normal use, it should stand up well but if heavy objects are dragged across the surface or if keys/utensils for example are used directly onto the surface, it may begin to scuff. However, it could be polished back up as scratches and surface marring is likely to be very light.
Forget the epoxy. That pony tail is worth the watch
First, thanks for the detailed video. Very informative. Is there a con to wet sanding the whole project? Always wondered why wet sanding begins after a certain amount of sanding was already completed.
For the coarser grits there is no benefit. On the finer grits, the water helps lubricate the paper and helps reduce clogging of the papers.
That was an awesome video. Do you typically add a finish to the entire piece after finishing or leave the glass-like epoxy untreated, and just finish the wood? If adding a finish to both wood and epoxy what do you use?
Hi David. Once polished, the resin already has its finish so there's no need to treat with any further product. Also any waxes or oils will simply sit on the surface and wipe off rather than being absorbed into the surface. The wood on the other hand can be treated and finished as per personal preference.
@@glasscastresin ah finally I understand
What will happen if you overheat while polishing resin surface?
If you overheat the resin, its likely to mark and distort/burn the surface.
Maybe this has been answered already but in general terms how much of the surface is removed in the process
It is entirely dependant on the finish of the surface to begin with. Good smooth finishes will need less material removing whereas a rougher texture will need more taking off in order to remove any blemishes.
un grand merci pour ces explications tres utile pour mon projet. je n arrive pas a obtenir une surface correct ( les rayures apparraissent a parir du gain 320 et sont de plus en plu présentes jisqu au grain 3000 !) . des paquest se forment sous les diques et le resutat est horrible. je vais suivre vos conseils et acheter les disques de ponçage que vous conseillez dans cette vidéo. encore merci et bravo pour ce partage.
Thanks for commenting, if the problems persist you can always get in touch by email at help@glasscastresin.com and we'd be happy to advise further.
Do you always use the abrasive discs dry? Can I use the wet? Maybe last longer?
It's better to use a dry sander for the initial stages as the dust can be extracted and its easier to see the areas which need more attention. When you get down to the finer grades of abrasive then you can switch to wet sanding.
Thank you for a great tutorial. Can you recommend a tool for smaller pieces of resin? I’m working on coasters, so an orbital sander feels excessive for the size.
I use GlassCast resin and it is brilliant, never had any issues with it unlike others that I’ve tried.
The good thing about a random orbital sander like this is that it has a random path, it's not just rotational which means you get a really nice finish with minimal sanding marks. For small pieces you might find a detail sander more appropriate.
Can you use a torch to dry the object you are using epoxie on¿
It would depend entirely on what the item was made from. Generally speaking I would say it's better to simply let it naturally dry out.
Awesome! How to protect it from scratches now going forward?
The epoxy resin is generally a hard wearing surface once fully cured. Occasional light polishing will remove any build up of scratches during use.
What kind of marker are you using. Is it a Permanent marker? Wet erase? what size tip? I'd hate to pick up the wrong type and graffiti the project LOL Nice video Thanks
Just a regular permanent marker but be careful to not get it onto the untreated wood as the ink could bleed into the porous surface - keep it on the cured epoxy only.
Thank u for this very informative video...can u help me where to get the different grit papers n the polishing compound
Glad you found it useful. You can find the abrasive papers and the polish from our website. www.glasscastresin.com/
Do both sides need to be sanded and polished?
If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.
Are you sanding all the way to 1200 on both sides or just one (human facing)?
It depends if you need a glossy finish on both sides and the transparency of the resin. For coloured resin you will probably be able to get away without particularly smooth finish however a clear or tinted resin may benefit from a good finish on both sides for best results.
Hi,
I've been struggling with these sandpaper marks for 2 weeks. How should the machine speed be? Are all grit numbers sanded at the same speed?
The sander should be set to a medium speed and care taken not to apply too much pressure to the surface, to fast and too hot can cause the resin to overheat and soften which can cause deeper marks. If you are still seeing scratches then you'll need to keep on at the next finest grade and not move onto the next step until they all disappear.
I have watched a few other videos and several people seem to be over sanding, all the way down to 5-10k grit.
Seems crazy.
With a good compound/polish combo, 1500 seems enough?
Have you ever felt the need to sand beyond 1500?
Thank you
1200-1500 is all you need depending on the polishing compound you use as shown in this video.
Is the sander spinning and pulsing or just the pulsing type?
A DA or Random Orbit sander works best for this type of sanding as it reduces any swirls and scratches in the surface.
I have a few questions about the NW1 and Topfinish 2 polishing compounds.
1) Are they sold anywhere under a smaller quantity? I don't have many resin things to use it on.
2) Can I use it with a dremel tool on small resin projects?
3) If it *can* be used with a dremel tool, what would be the recommended buffing bit?
I can answer you, or i can try at least. So, yes, you can use your dremmel toold with this paste. You can find some other polishing paste from different suplier that does the job and in small quantities ( Meguiars). And you can buff it with the wool disk.
is the cure time of epoxy important to when you sand?
Yes; it needs to be fully cured prior to sanding and the longer you can leave it after the initial cure, the harder and therefore easier to sand and polish it will become.
What are you useing to wipe the dust off your work after sanding?
We're using our microfibre cloths www.glasscastresin.com/microfibre-polishing-cloths
Great video any suggestions for a mixed epoxy countertop tops?
Hi Robert, the only difference if you were doing a darker colour is that you may wish to use the NW1 and TopFinish black rather than the white.
Everything else would be exactly the same.
I assume you do the backside in the same manner as you do the front side ??
Only if you need the reverse to be a similar finish.
Hello, does this method work for polishing acrylic?
I would have thought so, its a fairly generic sanding/polishing process. Just be sure not to overheat the resin, if you sand/polish too aggressively you could soften and melt the surface.
First timer here. laser engraved a flag in some mahogany. Did seal with shellac but one area of surface bubbles started to form so I torched. Think I spent too much time in one area and got a hardened blob that I was lucky enough to be able to scrape off with a popsicle stick. Took the rest of the resin off so it’s basically just “wet” no real buildup other than in the engraved portion. When this hardens/cures I plan on sanding again and doing another flood coat. While I don’t want coating to be thick, I do want the surface to be flat and not able to feel texture of non engraved portions. Any tips/suggestions? Just using clear no color.
FYI, This is my backup piece, my first attempt ended in prickly bumps that I sanded down to do something similar in the video, but got many small deep white pockets of resin dust that are not aesthetically pleasing nor easy to fix (they are probably original bubble paths).
Hi Wayne,
You're probably best treating this resin layer as another sealing coat which should eliminate the bubbles, as you say it will have filled the engraving and will now give you a completely flat surface once sanded down. I would just give the surface a light flat and key with 120, leaving a slight amount of resin on the surface. You can then go ahead with the 2mm flood coating which is the thickness that the resin needs to properly self level.
You might also be able to recover your first attempt by vacuuming the surface to try and pull the dust from the holes and then recoating again with resin.
@@glasscastresin I was hellbent on trying to wet and wipe it with alcohol, never even thought of vacuum! First attempt might be salvageable! Thanks. The 2nd attempt dried up pretty good over night just some barely visible lines where I scraped and didn’t see but nothing a light sanding won’t fix as you said. Only thing I’m concerned about is where I originally had the “crust” issue. It’s just a tad more textured. Hopefully with the sanding it’ll knock it all down. Thank you soooo much for the pretty quick and helpful reply!
Great video and very helpful. You used Danish oil to seal the wood before polishing with the compound. How long after sealing do you have to wait to polish. Is it possible to use like an Odies oil to seal before polishing as well?
It is not a product we have tested. However it looks to be made of oils and waxes so is likely to offer similar levels of protection. However test on a small area first to be safe.