There's no way to definitively gauge how many times you just saved future me from completely screwing up multiple slabs and attempts at epoxying, but let's just play it conservative and say 43. Awesome, info packed, BS free video, love your humor and your presentation was amazing, this was exactly what I needed. Thanks for taking the time do this, hugely appreciated!!
2 years of my life have gone by without me finding this video. Dude - you are hysterical. Even though I dnt do a fraction of the things you do (I do small crafts & searched for a video about epoxy & this came up) I continued to watch bc it was purely entertainment on top of extreme intelligence. Amazing stuff man. Smart as a whip. And the entertainment was the icing on the cake. Def had me hit the subscribe button. (And you're easy on the eyes 👀 - lucky wife LOL) ZERO DISRESPECT. Can't wait for the next 1!
As someone who works in the epoxy industry I would say some things that are super important are: The resin / hardener ratios are as close as can be. I never ever measure with volume. Always measure by weight. Also when mixing be sure to get the sides and corners of the vessel scraped down. It is always best to mix with a slower folding method when time allows as it introduces less bubbles and provides a better mix. If possible i pour out of the mixing vessel through a filter which surprisingly can help eliminate bubbles as well. There are a million nuances that can be learned, but these are some things I've learned over the last 15 or so years doing this stuff that i didn't hear on here. You guys do great work and i really enjoy the content.
@@John_Malecki Personally i do, only because measuring liquid by volume isn't super exact. You are relying on the accuracy of the vessel you are measuring in, and the the surface tension of the material can skew how much material is actually in the vessel. Being a little off isn't a huge deal when you are doing large amounts, because they typically account for that by having a little extra hardener. The smaller the amount the more exact you want to be. Volume measurements are the quick and dirty way to mix epoxy and it for sure will work, but for consistent results and uniform hardness i would measure by weight for smaller projects. Maybe It's overkill, maybe its my OCD.
If you use a scale and you tare, 40 mL of part a is equal to 40 mL of part b, a pound of bricks weighs the same as a pound of feathers the volume will be different. How is this not a one-to-one ratio that the bottle calls for?
The main thing I got from you was to realize how little I know ... that's a good thing, so thank you. I also love the fact that I recently told someone that I don't mind giving my "secrets" away. First, because there are no "secrets" in copper work and second, because I always get more back that I can put forth. Your video is a prime example. Again, thank you!!
I love this comment - Always pay it Forward. You always end up being blessed and helping others to realize that paying it forward especially with your knowledge and helping them ( by sharing your own knowledge;you are helping us with not losing alot of unnecessary money on making things that are smaller projects that still have great quality and that will be much easier and less expensive than if you had not shared your knowledge. I have a lot of respect for people who want to see others become successful as well. Thank you for your help and your heart and I love your work it has inspired me to get my sons & my husband to work together to create smaller things likes vanity tables and TV dinner Trays or even jewelry boxes or chests to put at the end of our bed & it’s a beautiful addition to our resin Projects. Sincerely - Mike & Heather
Working on a coffee table at home between college trimesters and thinking of doing some epoxy detail on the top. This video was super helpful on thinking on how I want to do it. Thank you!
Looked for every video out there on epoxy. Found yours after i bought an overpriced kit with scan code instructions. On the box i burned. And it continued to go sideways from there. DO NOT rush into this and plan properly. You sir have a quality channel. Good Work.
this is the best video i’ve watched so far but always someone trying to be smarter than you. When working with woods i should always wear mask, many woods hardwoods have carcinogenic properties. important for river or charcuterie board when cutting and the finish u youse. wearing a mask is practically standard. Boots, gloves glasses ears n lungs are basic common sense. I’m not searching for a channel that tells me to wear a mask 😷 I’m loving this guy. straight to point. n why you are doing this a certain way n not the way u think. I just hate when i see a comment that shows or indicates something a person may have missed. 2022. I have an uncle who made the most beautiful carvings from. antlers, i mean world best quality n he came from an age where it was not known that antler dust is very bad for you and that is what he passed away from although he let us with amazing art. take care y’all,
Thank for taking the time to share your knowledge and tips. I've been doing commercial counters for a few years for my own small stores and it's always just been trial and error. Your video will be very helpful in aiding me to greatly improve my pours. I'm a general contractor, home builder and have a lot of wooden boat building experience but love doing larger epoxy projects and look forward to doing a large rive table in the near future. Thank you for saving me from myself. You're the best.
Thanks for a video that really breaks down some of these questions! What's your process to rid bark and all the other crap you want to get rid of on the slab? Whats your product of choice for prepping the edges of the slab before a pour?
You know I've been watching a few different Epoxy pouring tutorials and I've gotta say I enjoy yours the most John. You add humor in that keeps it light and gives you a laugh every once in awhile, plus I feel like you're thoroughly covering the info that alot of other Epoxy pour tutorials leave out. Great stuff, Keep it up!
@6:54 if you rotate the screw counter clockwise(CCW) while putting them(starting them) in, thereby capturing the original hole threads, the holes will last much longer. By doing this you will notice the screw "seats" in the original threads. If you brute force the screw in clockwise(CW) then know this is the risk of cross threading the screw hole giving only two uses of the form. So CCW then CW to place the screw in the hole. Once started you can drive it to seat.
Very helpful as I plan my first river table project. As long time boat builder I am familiar with epoxy as an adhesive and for use in various laminations but I have not used epoxy alone as a structural element. One thing I would say is you are absolutely correct to use gloves and any other protective clothing working with epoxy. However Acetone is not the only thing that will remove epoxy from skin, alcohol works as well, in fact in my shop we use a Purell type of waterless, alcohol based hand cleaner. It does an excellent job removing epoxy and is much less toxic and gentler for your hands. Of course you have to use it before the epoxy has "kicked". Once cures there is only letting it harden and strip it, along with any hair in the area as well You do excellent videos I have learned a lot from them and as soon as I finish repairs on the rowing shell taking up all the room in the shop, I have planned to build one of your assembly/layout tables, I got the plans a month ago and I am looking forward to the project.
Re dust extraction the Oneida Dust Deputy is an awesome addition to any system. I picked a couple smaller less expensive vacuums and hooked them up with an ABS Y pipe fitting so I get just a ridiculous velocity which is key for the Dust Deputy to separate material.
This man has a way of speaking that keeps me listening, not necessarily "engaged" as if I'm in a conversation but I'm definitely picking up the information he's sharing and that's a really good quality to have if you're making a tip video like this one. So thank you for sharing just enough information to keep me inquisitive and also getting to the point fast enough that I'm not tapping the screen looking to see how much time is left.
He sounds condescending to me; is it really necessary to speak as if the viewer/listeners are complete idiots…? Maybe it is necessary for this guy. It’s nothing personal in any way; just expressing my my opinion howeverr I have learned a some things from this video that have been quite helpful
One of best videos you’ve ever done, as well as one of best videos period done on subject if not the best. Thanks again for your content man. Enjoy watching your channel. Very relatable and easy to watch and entertaining without being over the top. Keep it up please sir
Great video. Have done a couple river tables and dozens of bowls with table top epoxy. To get a satin finish on top of a deep pour or table top finish I just sand at 320 grit then use a buffing compound then paste wax. Or I just use a buffing compound instead of the sanding depending on the degree of gloss. You gave GREAT detail!
Thanks John! This video came right on time. I'm in the process of getting supplies for my first attempt at an epoxy build (wood epoxy coasters). You are saving me from much frustration and wasted time.
Ive been wanting to get into epoxy and I'm glad I remember this video. Good thing is I used to be an auto detailer so I'm great at the sanding, buffing and polishing process!
Making sure the pouring area is level! Seems so obvious when you say it, but I guarantee I likely would not have thought of it. Thanks for all the tips!
In my melamine/Tyvex tape molds, I use the Tyvek tape in the corners, and it works amazingly - no caulk needed, and I never had a leak. Even so, I have also taken a 1/2" diameter nylon rope and ran it around my table perimeter, holding it down with duct tape, thus creating a "dam". In the event I would have a leak, it can't travel to my floor.
This video is exactly what I needed. About to start my first epoxy project and I feel a hell of a lot more confident. Between the video and the comments, I have zero worries.
I watched your video and found it very informative. Thank you for sharing. I’m an artist and I’ve been doing custom airbrush work for almost 50 years. I want to learn how to do the epoxy river table tops and other epoxy art. I’m working with another friend that bought an entire wood shop. We want to start creating cool stuff. I have hundreds of ideas already. I need a detailed list of everything we need to get started. I’m going to watch your video a couple more times to try to learn as much as possible. Thank you again.
Hey, good video. I have a small start up woodcraft business and I basically have been teaching myself through trial and error. so thank you, I did take notes from this video and I will surely give them a try. I enjoy the fact that you keep it simple and do not over explain causing confusion. My suggestion to everybody is have open mind and like you say...READ LABELS! P.S. the Black Rifle table was awesome!
Great video. I am looking at doing my first epoxy project and you explained the process so well. I will most likely watch this video again before I start. Keep up the great work.
It's a very popular thing at the moment and seeing some of the results I can understand why. So, that was a terrific walkthrough, gives us all a better understanding of how to make a start. 👏👏👏👏
My tip is to do everything you can ahead of time. Some of this you wont know until you have done it a few times, but for instance if you are going to need a bunch of pieces of masking tape, tear those and have them ready. Onc you put gloves on and you get epoxy on, this is NOT the time to start trying to tear tape. Every second of time you put in to prepping ahead of time, laying tools out, etc, is so much less stress and work later.
Great video! Thanks for all the tips. Quick question: i know you said absolutely no water near the project, but is it ok to test the mold with a bit of water to see if there is a leak anywhere, then dry it off, let it dry for a day/two and then use the mold?
No, don't do it. As long as you follow what he said to do then you're good. The problem with water is that it can get under the tape and get trapped, or cause swelling in the mold. Use black silicone so you don't miss a corner and you'll be good.
Glad I saw this! Been trying to figure out deep pours (ashtrays and rolling trays) with table top epoxy 🤦♂️ at least the bubbles and the colors I used make it look like stone
Really really good video buddy. Can we make it very clear to people who are new to this to NEVER use a naked flame with polyurethane resin. It's extremely flammable
i never use a heat gun anymore, use acetone in a fine mist spray bottle and spritz it over the epoxy, the bubbles vanish and no harm to the epoxy, just give it a try.
I want to thank you for all your very educational and entertaining videos. You do a lot of the work I would enjoy doing myself. I have been running into many issues trying to get epoxies to flow out and make my projects look great. I really only do table tops and poor less than 1/8 inch at one time.
I could have used this yesterday before my first attempt with a resin pour that ended up leaking out. I'll never make that 90$ mistake again. lol Great video!
I could have used this yesterday before my first attempt that ended up floating (because I wanted it fully encapsulated in epoxy). Ended up flipping the boards and using vertical copper pipe to set weight on so that only the copper pipe will become part of the table and it will be on the bottom so less visible. If I had watched this, I would've thought "well duh, of course wood floats" but no, I didn't watch this and didn't even think about it lol.
My amazon basket is going to annihilate my bank, totally newbie here but I’m hypnotised. I’m very crafty and have worked with resin before only very small projects like miniature koi pond, this is upping my game. Fantastic video! Liked and subscribed thank you!
John, great video very helpful tips. I am well into my trial and errors of the Epoxy craft and would like your professional opinion. I have used about four different epoxies over the past year, some User Friendly other not so much. DO you have an epoxy that you can recommend that is scuff/scratch resistant -ideal for table tops (not River tables specifically)? Example, I build little end tables and the last two products I used loved the mix and pour, but even after the recommend cure time they still scuff easily. How, by doing my coffee cup test and wood block (lamp bottom) to purposely see how scratch resistant (not indentations) they are. Of course their customer service recommends polishing with this that or the other...Yes I know how to polish (which is an art in itself) but my customers after simple uses should not have to deal with scratches. Thank for your feedback and look forward to more videos and projects!
It’s a good thing I ran into this video because my idea of trying to save and seal our dining room table that has decorative cutouts under glass, that not only collects water and food but mold; is a lot more involved! I thought I could buy enough epoxy to fill up the spaces plus a little more to entirely cover all designs, let it dry and put the glass back on. Boy! Was I wrong! It sounds like it may be easier and cheaper, (the table is over six feet long!), to buy another table. Thanks for the in-depth look at using this stuff.
Good point on the temperature, however sometimes it's okay to have a colder temp during the application and once you are finished you can warm the room up so that over the course of 3 days the epoxy can cure properly, and once it's dry to the touch you can leave the room from 50 to 90 degrees. Applying epoxy at 50 degrees is okay, it's when its colder and the curing schedule is interrupted / manipulated. Just remember, the colder the room, the slower curing time. Which sometimes thats a great way to use a faster curing epoxy product on a larger area or if you're new to epoxy application. Just remember, if you are going to use a forced air heating unit to warm the space then you need to ensure that your vents have a filter on them and the air isn't pointed directly at your project. If you're project just happens to be right under a vent then it's possible you can get debris from your ducts onto the surface of the wet epoxy. You'll come back hours later and your epoxy project will be full of who knows what. To prevent issues simply block the vents that blow directly on your project. You can possibly fix the mess, but it will take a lot of work. If we're talking about vents then we need to talk about windows. If you have a window that happens to cast a significant amount of sunlight onto your project that too can cause issues. Especially if one side is getting hit with more light than the other side. It's always best to have complete control over this aspect of your project. Simply control the lights by using artificial lightening and just block all of the natural sunlight from creeping in because it can destroy your hard work. Good luck and thanks John for the great video!
Helped me sort out my Canoe repair & rehabilitation project. More than a bit. So, to you: You CAN wash unset epoxy from hands with GOOP brand mechanics cleaner and finger brush.
I’ve done a fair amount research on pigments, properly used powder pigments actually increased the strength of the epoxy according to a British study. They surmised that the pigment particle added structural elements to the epoxy. Believe they used a 5% mix.
GREAT VIDEO!! "Shotgun" for when 🇺🇸 goes back to NORMAL to be the one for you to make a 📹 with as a first timer epoxy pouring episode!!! (Just saying)🤷🏽♂️
Diablos new screen disc sanding pads, are a very good product. They even can be rinsed off, to extend their life, and depending on rhe hardness of what youre sanding they can last a long time. I reccomend them on Azek, and just rinse them off, and never replace them, because they are 100 times harder than Azek.
I came here specifically because I was too lazy to read the labels.. But that said your first piece of advice is probably the best you could have given me because I knew it had to be done 😅
@@user-tx5vr2lu6e I like building small models and wanted to encapsulate them in a moment (battle at sea, among clouds etc) rather than gathering dust on a shelf.
Interesting and a lot of useful information thank you. One small thing - over here in the UK side of the pond, we say “Celcius” when we measure temperature and as far as I am aware, we are every bit as free as you.
Will heat lamps over the project help to keep the temperature over the project optimal, or is it best for an overall ambient temperature for the room for the project?
Lol I’ve got a swamp cooler that I can’t control temperature well on so I had to wait a week until temps were low enough in the desert for my swamp cooler to keep around the right temperature. Don’t have a normal thermometer so I pulled the meat thermometer out of the kitchen to track temperature and know when to turn my swamp cooler up or down 😂 good times
Might just be my brain wiring but when you said, "vacuum the form out," at 11:45, I sure thought you were about to say something else with an F involved hahah
Is there a brand, type, or technique you would recommend to prevent clear panels from turning yellow in direct sunlight? We have a project that will stay outside. Thank you for all of the great videos and information you share in them!
"UHHHHHH..No, I did not just fart". BWahahahah That sent me! Now as I am typing, I swear I heard you say "two part fart uh varnish" Oh my this was worth it right here!
Me: *buys tabletop epoxy and plans to use it to fill some void *sees video * slowly hides epoxy jugs If I'm in this kind of situation, can I try using this anyway, just being careful to do shallow pours along the way?
Iv been watching your channel now for the last few days and I must say your awesome, I wanna be a carpenter now and do epoxy tables, funny, and a channel we can really learn on EPICCCC!!!
I saw this comment & was a little worried myself. I ordered an Ecopoxy Flowkit , and they said you don't have to worry at all about anything. It's even labeled it's nontoxic and you can breathe easy. Just an FYI for people buying it & yourself
Hey I just want to say first. Thank you for doing this channel on resin. So I'm trying to fill some wooden bowls to make it look like there's water in the bottom of them. What do you suggest?
I really appreciate this video. I am just trying to get into making epoxy resin art. One of the projects that I am working towards right now is a memorial for my friends dogs. She expressed how sad she was the other day over the fact that she does not have a picture of all the girls together. She’s had five huskies over the years but three have now passed over the rainbow bridge. And so to honor her dogs that have gained their wings. I am trying to make a deep poor multimedia epoxy resin art winter sled scene LED lamp with a dimmer switch. The figurines of each individual dog are almost identical to what the dog really look like. There are five figurines all comprised of sandstone. All total this project is probably going to cost me around $1000 to finish. I get one shot. I can’t afford to mess up so videos like this one have been super helpful. I’m still trying to figure out exactly where I can get an L lipped box mold. Not an easy task when I’m just starting out. But videos like this one are slowly helping me find my way. So thank you. Please keep creating tip videos like this one. That will continue to inspire and aid new generations of resin artists.
There's no way to definitively gauge how many times you just saved future me from completely screwing up multiple slabs and attempts at epoxying, but let's just play it conservative and say 43. Awesome, info packed, BS free video, love your humor and your presentation was amazing, this was exactly what I needed. Thanks for taking the time do this, hugely appreciated!!
2 years of my life have gone by without me finding this video. Dude - you are hysterical. Even though I dnt do a fraction of the things you do (I do small crafts & searched for a video about epoxy & this came up) I continued to watch bc it was purely entertainment on top of extreme intelligence. Amazing stuff man. Smart as a whip. And the entertainment was the icing on the cake. Def had me hit the subscribe button. (And you're easy on the eyes 👀 - lucky wife LOL) ZERO DISRESPECT. Can't wait for the next 1!
As someone who works in the epoxy industry I would say some things that are super important are: The resin / hardener ratios are as close as can be. I never ever measure with volume. Always measure by weight. Also when mixing be sure to get the sides and corners of the vessel scraped down. It is always best to mix with a slower folding method when time allows as it introduces less bubbles and provides a better mix. If possible i pour out of the mixing vessel through a filter which surprisingly can help eliminate bubbles as well. There are a million nuances that can be learned, but these are some things I've learned over the last 15 or so years doing this stuff that i didn't hear on here. You guys do great work and i really enjoy the content.
thanks ian, great pointers there, do you still measure by weight even when it calls for volume on the container ?
@@John_Malecki Personally i do, only because measuring liquid by volume isn't super exact. You are relying on the accuracy of the vessel you are measuring in, and the the surface tension of the material can skew how much material is actually in the vessel. Being a little off isn't a huge deal when you are doing large amounts, because they typically account for that by having a little extra hardener. The smaller the amount the more exact you want to be. Volume measurements are the quick and dirty way to mix epoxy and it for sure will work, but for consistent results and uniform hardness i would measure by weight for smaller projects. Maybe It's overkill, maybe its my OCD.
Do what it says on bottle some cant be mixed with weight as they are different weights
I was kicked out of a resin Facebook group for saying to measure by weight not volume.
If you use a scale and you tare, 40 mL of part a is equal to 40 mL of part b, a pound of bricks weighs the same as a pound of feathers the volume will be different. How is this not a one-to-one ratio that the bottle calls for?
The layout of tools in the back is so soothing!!!
Totally
Absolutely
Affirmative
Aaaaannd - relaxe!! All is in placeAnd all is well with the world # slightly-o.c.d 😆
😀😁🤣😂😁😀 absolutely! Its oddly therapeutic
The main thing I got from you was to realize how little I know ... that's a good thing, so thank you. I also love the fact that I recently told someone that I don't mind giving my "secrets" away. First, because there are no "secrets" in copper work and second, because I always get more back that I can put forth. Your video is a prime example. Again, thank you!!
I love this comment - Always pay it Forward. You always end up being blessed and helping others to realize that paying it forward especially with your knowledge and helping them ( by sharing your own knowledge;you are helping us with not losing alot of unnecessary money on making things that are smaller projects that still have great quality and that will be much easier and less expensive than if you had not shared your knowledge. I have a lot of respect for people who want to see others become successful as well. Thank you for your help and your heart and I love your work it has inspired me to get my sons & my husband to work together to create smaller things likes vanity tables and TV dinner Trays or even jewelry boxes or chests to put at the end of our bed & it’s a beautiful addition to our resin
Projects. Sincerely - Mike & Heather
1st timer. When he said “ the point of this segment is to READ THE LABEL” I subscribed. lmao I like this guy. Wed be friends
We are friends Ollie!
Right?! Like thank you @John_Malecki for reading the labels for us!! 😂🥳
Working on a coffee table at home between college trimesters and thinking of doing some epoxy detail on the top. This video was super helpful on thinking on how I want to do it. Thank you!
Actually going to be doing my first ever attempt doing a countertop, and this was a MASSIVE help. Thanks for all the solid info!
How’s it going for you?
I’ve often thought about doing epoxy work, but now I know not go in lightly. Props on a solid video, sir.
Looked for every video out there on epoxy. Found yours after i bought an overpriced kit with scan code instructions. On the box i burned. And it continued to go sideways from there. DO NOT rush into this and plan properly. You sir have a quality channel. Good Work.
I think you should mention the importance of wearing a respirator while working with any epoxy. Protect those lungs! Better safe than sorry.
What about if your doing it outside?
@@Cb-zj5xl A full respirator? Or will something like an N95 work?
@@every_thing_wood1251 organic vapors respirator
this is the best video i’ve watched so far but always someone trying to be smarter than you. When working with woods i should always wear mask, many woods hardwoods have carcinogenic properties. important for river or charcuterie board when cutting and the finish u youse. wearing a mask is practically standard. Boots, gloves glasses ears n lungs are basic common sense. I’m not searching for a channel that tells me to wear a mask 😷 I’m loving this guy.
straight to point. n why you are doing this a certain way n not the way u think. I just hate when i see a comment that shows or indicates something a person may have missed. 2022.
I have an uncle who made the most beautiful carvings from. antlers, i mean world best quality n he came from an age where it was not known that antler dust is very bad for you and that is what he passed away from although he let us with amazing art.
take care y’all,
After Covid nobody was wearing the right mask do you think somebody’s going to actually buy a proper respirator with the charcoal activation inside
Thank for taking the time to share your knowledge and tips. I've been doing commercial counters for a few years for my own small stores and it's always just been trial and error. Your video will be very helpful in aiding me to greatly improve my pours. I'm a general contractor, home builder and have a lot of wooden boat building experience but love doing larger epoxy projects and look forward to doing a large rive table in the near future. Thank you for saving me from myself. You're the best.
Thanks for a video that really breaks down some of these questions! What's your process to rid bark and all the other crap you want to get rid of on the slab? Whats your product of choice for prepping the edges of the slab before a pour?
You know I've been watching a few different Epoxy pouring tutorials and I've gotta say I enjoy yours the most John. You add humor in that keeps it light and gives you a laugh every once in awhile, plus I feel like you're thoroughly covering the info that alot of other Epoxy pour tutorials leave out.
Great stuff, Keep it up!
@6:54 if you rotate the screw counter clockwise(CCW) while putting them(starting them) in, thereby capturing the original hole threads, the holes will last much longer. By doing this you will notice the screw "seats" in the original threads. If you brute force the screw in clockwise(CW) then know this is the risk of cross threading the screw hole giving only two uses of the form. So CCW then CW to place the screw in the hole. Once started you can drive it to seat.
Always
Very helpful as I plan my first river table project. As long time boat builder I am familiar with epoxy as an adhesive and for use in various laminations but I have not used epoxy alone as a structural element.
One thing I would say is you are absolutely correct to use gloves and any other protective clothing working with epoxy. However Acetone is not the only thing that will remove epoxy from skin, alcohol works as well, in fact in my shop we use a Purell type of waterless, alcohol based hand cleaner. It does an excellent job removing epoxy and is much less toxic and gentler for your hands. Of course you have to use it before the epoxy has "kicked". Once cures there is only letting it harden and strip it, along with any hair in the area as well
You do excellent videos I have learned a lot from them and as soon as I finish repairs on the rowing shell taking up all the room in the shop, I have planned to build one of your assembly/layout tables, I got the plans a month ago and I am looking forward to the project.
Re dust extraction the Oneida Dust Deputy is an awesome addition to any system. I picked a couple smaller less expensive vacuums and hooked them up with an ABS Y pipe fitting so I get just a ridiculous velocity which is key for the Dust Deputy to separate material.
Also also I sand down to 3000 grit and just use an orange oil furniture polish and my clients love it.
Also forgot to add, when sanding plastics a grounding wire also helps. Mine is attached at the bolts that connect the Cyclone to its lid.
This man has a way of speaking that keeps me listening, not necessarily "engaged" as if I'm in a conversation but I'm definitely picking up the information he's sharing and that's a really good quality to have if you're making a tip video like this one. So thank you for sharing just enough information to keep me inquisitive and also getting to the point fast enough that I'm not tapping the screen looking to see how much time is left.
He sounds condescending to me; is it really necessary to speak as if the viewer/listeners are complete idiots…? Maybe it is necessary for this guy. It’s nothing personal in any way; just expressing my my opinion howeverr I have learned a some things from this video that have been quite helpful
One of best videos you’ve ever done, as well as one of best videos period done on subject if not the best. Thanks again for your content man. Enjoy watching your channel. Very relatable and easy to watch and entertaining without being over the top. Keep it up please sir
You got it Josh!
Great video. Have done a couple river tables and dozens of bowls with table top epoxy. To get a satin finish on top of a deep pour or table top finish I just sand at 320 grit then use a buffing compound then paste wax. Or I just use a buffing compound instead of the sanding depending on the degree of gloss. You gave GREAT detail!
Thanks John! This video came right on time. I'm in the process of getting supplies for my first attempt at an epoxy build (wood epoxy coasters). You are saving me from much frustration and wasted time.
That is why I’m here my friend !
@@John_Malecki Thank you . Great job. Greatly appreciated.
Super video! I applauded for $2.00 👏
Ive been wanting to get into epoxy and I'm glad I remember this video. Good thing is I used to be an auto detailer so I'm great at the sanding, buffing and polishing process!
I’m really happy for you Luis.
Making sure the pouring area is level! Seems so obvious when you say it, but I guarantee I likely would not have thought of it. Thanks for all the tips!
What finish would be really durable, like no coasters required when you put a drink on it?
I'm 28. Live edge design is my passion. I need woodworking to breath. This is invaluable information to me. Thanks for making this.
In my melamine/Tyvex tape molds, I use the Tyvek tape in the corners, and it works amazingly - no caulk needed, and I never had a leak.
Even so, I have also taken a 1/2" diameter nylon rope and ran it around my table perimeter, holding it down with duct tape, thus creating a "dam". In the event I would have a leak, it can't travel to my floor.
As a complete noob about to do my first epoxy project, this was very helpful thank you.
Thank you for being so thorough. This was really informative!
Glad it was helpful!
This video is exactly what I needed. About to start my first epoxy project and I feel a hell of a lot more confident. Between the video and the comments, I have zero worries.
This is so amazing. I’ve been goggling this question for hours trying to figure out what type I need. Thank you kindly ✨
Hey i say it that way too lol thank you kindly❤🇺🇸
I watched your video and found it very informative. Thank you for sharing. I’m an artist and I’ve been doing custom airbrush work for almost 50 years. I want to learn how to do the epoxy river table tops and other epoxy art. I’m working with another friend that bought an entire wood shop. We want to start creating cool stuff. I have hundreds of ideas already. I need a detailed list of everything we need to get started. I’m going to watch your video a couple more times to try to learn as much as possible. Thank you again.
A great help, very informative thank you from across the pond in the UK.
Great job John. You answered a ton of questions this beginner has.
Hey, good video. I have a small start up woodcraft business and I basically have been teaching myself through trial and error. so thank you, I did take notes from this video and I will surely give them a try. I enjoy the fact that you keep it simple and do not over explain causing confusion. My suggestion to everybody is have open mind and like you say...READ LABELS! P.S. the Black Rifle table was awesome!
I have one too, nice to see I'm not alone here :)
Dude I just want to say you are really great to listen to and funny as hell. Keep doing what you're doing here.
Great video. I am looking at doing my first epoxy project and you explained the process so well. I will most likely watch this video again before I start. Keep up the great work.
This was massively helpful - thanks for the thorough beginners guide!
I'm just getting started in the epoxy furniture business. Thank you! You literally saved me so much time and money.
Really good tips. Haven't done Epoxy yet, but will come to this video when i get to it.
Absolutely love that all your gear hangs in a perfect line behind you😍
I wish this video was around 2 years ago when I started my epoxy table. Hard lessons were learnt.
It's a very popular thing at the moment and seeing some of the results I can understand why.
So, that was a terrific walkthrough, gives us all a better understanding of how to make a start.
👏👏👏👏
Now I’m freshly armed with his knowledge....Let the chaos ensue 😂
BRING THE CHAOS
Hahaha🤣
Freedom units. 😂 That made my day.
That was so stupid. Especially because, ya know, it’s also European. It was not invented in America.
This is GREAT content! Thanks, I wish I had this years ago.
Thanks!
My tip is to do everything you can ahead of time. Some of this you wont know until you have done it a few times, but for instance if you are going to need a bunch of pieces of masking tape, tear those and have them ready. Onc you put gloves on and you get epoxy on, this is NOT the time to start trying to tear tape. Every second of time you put in to prepping ahead of time, laying tools out, etc, is so much less stress and work later.
Great tip!
By far the best information I have found (I have reviewed many others). Thank you John!
Great video! Thanks for all the tips.
Quick question: i know you said absolutely no water near the project, but is it ok to test the mold with a bit of water to see if there is a leak anywhere, then dry it off, let it dry for a day/two and then use the mold?
No, don't do it. As long as you follow what he said to do then you're good. The problem with water is that it can get under the tape and get trapped, or cause swelling in the mold. Use black silicone so you don't miss a corner and you'll be good.
Glad I saw this! Been trying to figure out deep pours (ashtrays and rolling trays) with table top epoxy 🤦♂️ at least the bubbles and the colors I used make it look like stone
Thank you. I needed this information.
You're welcome !!!
Really really good video buddy. Can we make it very clear to people who are new to this to NEVER use a naked flame with polyurethane resin. It's extremely flammable
i never use a heat gun anymore, use acetone in a fine mist spray bottle and spritz it over the epoxy, the bubbles vanish and no harm to the epoxy, just give it a try.
That sounds... Incredible toxic.
By far the best informational video I’ve seen on epoxy! 💯
Thanks for the video, hope to see more videos like this in the future!
Great video. You prevented many future disasters in my life. ❤
I want to thank you for all your very educational and entertaining videos. You do a lot of the work I would enjoy doing myself. I have been running into many issues trying to get epoxies to flow out and make my projects look great. I really only do table tops and poor less than 1/8 inch at one time.
I could have used this yesterday before my first attempt with a resin pour that ended up leaking out. I'll never make that 90$ mistake again. lol Great video!
I could have used this yesterday before my first attempt that ended up floating (because I wanted it fully encapsulated in epoxy). Ended up flipping the boards and using vertical copper pipe to set weight on so that only the copper pipe will become part of the table and it will be on the bottom so less visible. If I had watched this, I would've thought "well duh, of course wood floats" but no, I didn't watch this and didn't even think about it lol.
Agreed but think of it as a lesson learned. It's not a waste if you learned something.
My amazon basket is going to annihilate my bank, totally newbie here but I’m hypnotised. I’m very crafty and have worked with resin before only very small projects like miniature koi pond, this is upping my game. Fantastic video! Liked and subscribed thank you!
John, great video very helpful tips. I am well into my trial and errors of the Epoxy craft and would like your professional opinion. I have used about four different epoxies over the past year, some User Friendly other not so much. DO you have an epoxy that you can recommend that is scuff/scratch resistant -ideal for table tops (not River tables specifically)? Example, I build little end tables and the last two products I used loved the mix and pour, but even after the recommend cure time they still scuff easily. How, by doing my coffee cup test and wood block (lamp bottom) to purposely see how scratch resistant (not indentations) they are. Of course their customer service recommends polishing with this that or the other...Yes I know how to polish (which is an art in itself) but my customers after simple uses should not have to deal with scratches. Thank for your feedback and look forward to more videos and projects!
Do you have a new person editing the videos? The style and quality has gotten better
Yes we do, thank you! I'll let him know
It’s a good thing I ran into this video because my idea of trying to save and seal our dining room table that has decorative cutouts under glass, that not only collects water and food but mold; is a lot more involved!
I thought I could buy enough epoxy to fill up the spaces plus a little more to entirely cover all designs, let it dry and put the glass back on. Boy! Was I wrong!
It sounds like it may be easier and cheaper, (the table is over six feet long!), to buy another table.
Thanks for the in-depth look at using this stuff.
This helps a lot thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Lots of love and respect from here in Iran 🇮🇷
Great video. This answered a lot of questions.
Same 😊🙏🏿
Good point on the temperature, however sometimes it's okay to have a colder temp during the application and once you are finished you can warm the room up so that over the course of 3 days the epoxy can cure properly, and once it's dry to the touch you can leave the room from 50 to 90 degrees. Applying epoxy at 50 degrees is okay, it's when its colder and the curing schedule is interrupted / manipulated. Just remember, the colder the room, the slower curing time. Which sometimes thats a great way to use a faster curing epoxy product on a larger area or if you're new to epoxy application. Just remember, if you are going to use a forced air heating unit to warm the space then you need to ensure that your vents have a filter on them and the air isn't pointed directly at your project. If you're project just happens to be right under a vent then it's possible you can get debris from your ducts onto the surface of the wet epoxy. You'll come back hours later and your epoxy project will be full of who knows what. To prevent issues simply block the vents that blow directly on your project. You can possibly fix the mess, but it will take a lot of work. If we're talking about vents then we need to talk about windows. If you have a window that happens to cast a significant amount of sunlight onto your project that too can cause issues. Especially if one side is getting hit with more light than the other side. It's always best to have complete control over this aspect of your project. Simply control the lights by using artificial lightening and just block all of the natural sunlight from creeping in because it can destroy your hard work.
Good luck and thanks John for the great video!
We sooo need a blooper reel.
Helped me sort out my Canoe repair & rehabilitation project. More than a bit. So, to you: You CAN wash unset epoxy from hands with GOOP brand mechanics cleaner and finger brush.
"dispersing of the boobles" ... the next instalment of informative videos on epoxy
Great video! Super satisfying tool wall organization too
I used an oil based stain on a bar top. The wood is rough and I like the “look” but want a smooth feel. Can I get a recommendation on type of epoxy?
Probably table top. it'll look like a plastic film tho....
@@John_Malecki hey bro, looking for a mentor. ????
I’ve done a fair amount research on pigments, properly used powder pigments actually increased the strength of the epoxy according to a British study. They surmised that the pigment particle added structural elements to the epoxy. Believe they used a 5% mix.
GREAT VIDEO!!
"Shotgun" for when 🇺🇸 goes back to NORMAL to be the one for you to make a 📹 with as a first timer epoxy pouring episode!!! (Just saying)🤷🏽♂️
Hahahahaha
Diablos new screen disc sanding pads, are a very good product. They even can be rinsed off, to extend their life, and depending on rhe hardness of what youre sanding they can last a long time. I reccomend them on Azek, and just rinse them off, and never replace them, because they are 100 times harder than Azek.
I came here specifically because I was too lazy to read the labels.. But that said your first piece of advice is probably the best you could have given me because I knew it had to be done 😅
Me: These epoxy things look nice, I'd like to get into that.
>Watch a few beginner videos.
Me: Nah, fuck that mess.
what kind of stuff did you want to make?
@@user-tx5vr2lu6e I like building small models and wanted to encapsulate them in a moment (battle at sea, among clouds etc) rather than gathering dust on a shelf.
Interesting and a lot of useful information thank you. One small thing - over here in the UK side of the pond, we say “Celcius” when we measure temperature and as far as I am aware, we are every bit as free as you.
Anyone else here after messing up an epoxy project?
Me! haha
Will heat lamps over the project help to keep the temperature over the project optimal, or is it best for an overall ambient temperature for the room for the project?
The best tip: USE PPE.
This is the funniest and most informative video on RUclips.
Lol I’ve got a swamp cooler that I can’t control temperature well on so I had to wait a week until temps were low enough in the desert for my swamp cooler to keep around the right temperature. Don’t have a normal thermometer so I pulled the meat thermometer out of the kitchen to track temperature and know when to turn my swamp cooler up or down 😂 good times
Very cool hahaha sounds like i need a swamp cooler
4
I put a window unit in my pour room if its over 90 degrees freedom units I don't get much working time especially with larger projects
Have you ever used Meguairs PlastX? We use it for woodturning projects to polish acrylics and epoxy. Works great. Great video. Thank you.
Might just be my brain wiring but when you said, "vacuum the form out," at 11:45, I sure thought you were about to say something else with an F involved hahah
Is there a brand, type, or technique you would recommend to prevent clear panels from turning yellow in direct sunlight? We have a project that will stay outside. Thank you for all of the great videos and information you share in them!
There are some brands that claim they won't yellow, but I think they all eventually do. I have yet to try the total boat epoxy, but I will soon.
"UHHHHHH..No, I did not just fart". BWahahahah That sent me! Now as I am typing, I swear I heard you say "two part fart uh varnish" Oh my this was worth it right here!
THE best instructional video I've seen by far and I've seen many many many...
Me: *buys tabletop epoxy and plans to use it to fill some void
*sees video
* slowly hides epoxy jugs
If I'm in this kind of situation, can I try using this anyway, just being careful to do shallow pours along the way?
Liam Thompson you could slowly do each layer allowing each layer to dry it might not be totally clear though just depends I guess
another FABULOUS video, nice work, will continue watching. thanks
Who's here because of Wordle
How???????
Nope I'm not just a dork wanting to make more money so I can make a decent turd 😢
@@jabroski69 absolutely great comment!
Hi
Iv been watching your channel now for the last few days and I must say your awesome, I wanna be a carpenter now and do epoxy tables, funny, and a channel we can really learn on EPICCCC!!!
I was hoping to see safety instructions and promotion.. just found out how dangerous the fumes from epoxy are..
It's scary
I saw this comment & was a little worried myself. I ordered an Ecopoxy Flowkit , and they said you don't have to worry at all about anything. It's even labeled it's nontoxic and you can breathe easy. Just an FYI for people buying it & yourself
Great video. Im trying to make the wife a nightstand with an epoxy resin top with metallic flakes. Good luck to us
Damnit now I have to read. I'm more of a fix it after type of guy. Reading is for the weak.
it depends on what you're reading. haha
@@John_Malecki
Actually just joking around I'm trying to gather all the info I can for a black walnut table and don't want to F it up.
Dj nonya Lol.
@@djnonya9570 you made it? How did it turn out
@@lukasvondaheim
Haven't made it yet, I have almost all the materials but need a place that's 70 degrees for the epoxy and not dusty as hell.
Wow, One year later! Thanks so much for making this video. Lots of great information!
you completely lost me when you didn't give Celsius too.
Hey I just want to say first. Thank you for doing this channel on resin. So I'm trying to fill some wooden bowls to make it look like there's water in the bottom of them. What do you suggest?
Sorry you lost me at your fast talk and S&M gear perfectly organized on the wall behind you.
I really appreciate this video. I am just trying to get into making epoxy resin art. One of the projects that I am working towards right now is a memorial for my friends dogs. She expressed how sad she was the other day over the fact that she does not have a picture of all the girls together. She’s had five huskies over the years but three have now passed over the rainbow bridge. And so to honor her dogs that have gained their wings. I am trying to make a deep poor multimedia epoxy resin art winter sled scene LED lamp with a dimmer switch. The figurines of each individual dog are almost identical to what the dog really look like. There are five figurines all comprised of sandstone. All total this project is probably going to cost me around $1000 to finish. I get one shot. I can’t afford to mess up so videos like this one have been super helpful. I’m still trying to figure out exactly where I can get an L lipped box mold. Not an easy task when I’m just starting out. But videos like this one are slowly helping me find my way. So thank you. Please keep creating tip videos like this one. That will continue to inspire and aid new generations of resin artists.