The wood is too light colored to show off the logo and makes the wood look cheap and new. Stain brings out the grain and gives the wood character. I think we all agree.
Always gotta remember with epoxy it's pour depth AND volume, if you exceed the max on either, and don't have it under intense cooling, you're gonna have a bad time. Really good reason why the Black Forest guys just started their own epoxy line, and why their deep pour room is hardcore air conditioned, and if I remember right they pour with the mold on top of a big aluminum plate with standing air conditioners beneath it. It's all about heatsinking so you don't get thermal runaway.
True and epoxy mass at 100mm deep is ok as long as you have like island areas so more wood mass as that absorbs the heat and kools the resin but if you have stones on the other hand that will hold the heat and intensify.
most companies state in their instructions when mixing over X amount max depth drops to X. All epoxy is mass and temperature sensitive. I've seen a lot of people using cooling tables but if your shop (or the pour) falls below 60°F the epoxy could stall out so its a double edged sword.
It’s a shame how this one turned out, but a good lesson learned I guess. I really do appreciate you guys posting this and mistakes that are made in the process of your projects. Glad that you are willing to share those with us. We probably learn more for the mistakes than we do from the successes.
I was expecting the cracks to be filled with a dark epoxy, just to make "intentional inclusions." But pretty cool that the existing tinted product was still available to fill those cracks. Definitely stopped the puck right on the goal line with this build.. lol
Personal, learning from mistakes are priceless. The fact your still keeping-using is gargantuan. That’s right gargantuan! Everyday looking at the perception of wrong, inspired. Love it. Keep being squrealle.
I've been able to reuse resin from scraps by shaving the resin into resin chips and adding them to a different pour, and you usually won't be able to see them. It has saved me a ton of money on pours.
I’m thinking adding either all white led lights on the underside, or maybe a mix of blue and red? Idk. Would really make those colours brighten up. Could be worth a try. Shine a flashlight under there and see how it looks
Solid salvage effort boys! haha, I will say when I made my river table, I had a lot of luck using a $2-$3 syringe to inject epoxy into those more pesky cracks/voids after surfacing. Makes a notable difference in how well it penetrates the void and how easy sanding is later. Hope that helps!
I think for the blue side, you would have done either 1 blue bucket or 2 blue buckets and the other buckets clear. This would have allow the clear stay light and shine. However, I still love it! Nice job you guys!
Hey man, you got a great channel, very entertaining and I recognize some of the CJS techniques. I have been with Derral for 4 weeks in CJS hoping to figure my crap out and skyrocket dis sum-gum!✌️
Absolutely beautiful work! I was thinking a series of 1 inch holes in the epoxy separation "baffle" might allow for a mingling of the colored epoxy that would resemble a finger joint made from the epoxy. Maybe, maybe not. The CNC'ed logo is spectacular instead.
I use super clear as well its great to pour 4 5 inches but you need to drop the shop temperature in the room. Also if your doing deep pours make a table that you can chill. It helps draw some heat away.
I’m doing a smaller 3 gallon project in the next few weeks. I don’t have a chilled table, but I am thinking about cutting up some conduit “rollers” for air flow underneath. I will let you know how it goes.
Great save! I bet it would have looked awesome if you had swip swapped the colors. Put the red epoxy in the blue cracks and vice versa. And maybe for a future project you can make the epoxy crack on purpose and fill the cracks with a complimentary color.
@@John_Malecki Yeah that's what I meant. Let it dry with the cracks then fill those cracks with a different color epoxy. Just a wild thought! Keep up the great content. You're one of my favs!
The entire vibe of this team is A1. I've worked with a lot of crews and the difference between a good day and a bad day has less to do with what you are doing, but the skill and patience of the people you are doing it with.
So glad you tried this concept. I was thinking of doing something very similar (down the road) for a conference table for a friend of mine's business. For that thickness, I guess a 2 pour option would work best- maybe clear first then come back and damn up a split with the red and blue. Oh, and I was thinking as I watched this, you could have possibly hit the letters in the logo with a torch to help them stand out against the white a bit more. just my 2 cents.... they're worth much less now due to inflation. Cheers!
I love seeing people that are sort of great kinda blow it and then recover. We all make mistakes but we don't always realize we all make mistakes. Somehow, in a way I can't quite articulate, the world needs more of this video.
You always have resin that turns out clear. How do you get rid of micro bubbles. I’ve used a blow torch I’ve let it sit for about 10 mins but i normally end up with micro bubbles. Any advice would be much appreciated
Wow that's one heck of a save. I think the powder blue from the black diamond brand would have been better. But I think the white liquid would have made the logo pop more. The liquid color I'm not a fan. Atleast you saved your table.. I couldn't save my first one.. between layers it didn't cure fully..but I took the cherry pieces out of it and turned them in to cutting boards. Great save gents 👏 👍
Great cover up. You take on some crazy projects. Love it! Whenever using a light color on dark woods I use a white primer first which makes the colors true and it makes the epoxy look opaque.
I think the table turned out pretty good considering the issues with the epoxy pour. Plus, that is the only way you learn the limits of what you can and cannot do. Nice save on the table!!
There’s this kind of RUclips watchers that love to watch people fail and then shit on them. I see it all the time. That’s not my thing. I love watching people making really cool stuff. Despite that, these are some of my favorite videos to watch. It’s when things go wrong that we get to see how our favorite RUclipsrs’ minds work. It’s not the mishap that interests me, rather what they do next … how they fix or hide a mistake. That stuff is RUclips gold.
Would have looked cool if you had filled the cracks with a solid white, would have highlighted them as a design feature instead of trying to minimize the cracks
Ok, here's the problem. When you pour epoxy for a river table, if it's over 1 inch thick you cannot use normal epoxy. You have to use casting epoxy. Is an epoxy that hardens but not as rigid as normal epoxy. That way when epoxy heats up (it will since epoxy cures with heat) it can expands and then as it cools and contracts, it doesn't crack. After you finish pouring the casting epoxy then use normal epoxy for a clear top coat
Just a wild idea, but is there any way to further propogate cracks in the resin? Hitting it with a hammer to further crack it, then filling in with the resin? Maybe adding cracks might have both masked the error while adding more visual flair...
Always a great time to see a new video guys. We live and learn an learn to live. John and boys. Can't wait to see more videos soon guys. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld on. Keep making. Stay squirrely. God Bless.
Try laying down a base layer of color. Let it cure, but don't let it completely set. Pour a send layer of clear over the base. Same effect, but much more forgiving if mistakes are made. All the imperfections can be fixed, prior pouring the clear.
Hey man, i have no idea how to get ahold of you I create content full time on twitch. my house burnt down live on stream in January. my family heirloom table was scorched in the process but is still intact and has a cool char on it. I would love to be able to send it to you for you to create a new table with the burned one. this would mean the world to me! PLEASE. i have no time limit I dont care if it takes you a year. they just finished deconstruction so we dont plan to be back in the house for another 6 months. Love the vid man! God Bless
regardless of the finished product, always enjoy your vids and throwing caution to the wind approach to your craftsmanship...just like your "pancakes on Sundays", it's always flat out fun visiting your channel...rock on, young MAN!
I think i mightve hit all the resin with some type of air hammer and re poured another couple gallons and just lived with a fractle looking design between the two. Still cool tho
God bro your the embodiment of how I want to do a woodworking shop. Fuckin around, havin fun, and getting shit done. If only I had millis I could actually make a shop lol
Almost like you should have embraced the cracks. added a few and done some gold resin to make it look like you did some Kintsugi could have been sweet. but at least you saved it. But i would like to see an epoxy attempt at Kintsugi!
I wonder if using a thin piece of Acrylic for the dam would have worked better. Maybe even giving you an option to just leave it in place when all was said and done
should've used clear mylar (can be purchased cheap @ joanns sewing section using coupon). mylar can withstand heat (does warp at very high temp). but for the table, any warping in the mylar will add to the effect looking more realistic.
Black Diamond pigments are great, but the white you used just doesn't get opaque without thickening the epoxy at ¼". Better to add an opaque white with it, or put white primer down first.
Lots of questions ran through my head when he said he was going to pour 4 inches. Like: Why? Just to have a funny video title? If you already have your dye ratio, 2 pours of 2inches would be far less risk.
i think it was bc he wanted to pull the dam out and swirl the two sides together and then under light it if he had down 2 pours it would have looked kind of odd .... cool idea but really not game plan like lets cool the room as much as possible as it did have ac and or check on it in the night to see how it was going
Hey John! Thanks for all you and your team provide. My friends and I love watching your builds and learning. We are getting a CNC and we’re curious what you charge people to use yours? Is it let job? Per hour? How would you recommend going about that? Thanks!
It stands a lesson. It stands as a functional table. It stands as a fun video. It stands as a team effort. It stands as a rescue. You three can stand by it proud.
I'm going to have to ask did dewalt sponsor you to get their saw stuck in the beginning? I'm also noticing Jordan's dewalt hoodie. And also mixing the epoxy with the dewalt drill that doesn't have enough power 😂
I feel like a really dark stain on the wood would've helped make the epoxy look better
I thought the exact same thing especially after the white wasn't white enough
There is no way to make epoxy look better.
@@wyliewoodco He said a darker stain on the WOOD, which he feels would offset against the epoxy better. He didn't say to do anything to the epoxy.
@@darkmagna9004 you’re missing the point but thanks for clearing that up 😂
The wood is too light colored to show off the logo and makes the wood look cheap and new. Stain brings out the grain and gives the wood character. I think we all agree.
Always gotta remember with epoxy it's pour depth AND volume, if you exceed the max on either, and don't have it under intense cooling, you're gonna have a bad time. Really good reason why the Black Forest guys just started their own epoxy line, and why their deep pour room is hardcore air conditioned, and if I remember right they pour with the mold on top of a big aluminum plate with standing air conditioners beneath it. It's all about heatsinking so you don't get thermal runaway.
Yes. All of this. :)
They also have water cooled tables as well.
True and epoxy mass at 100mm deep is ok as long as you have like island areas so more wood mass as that absorbs the heat and kools the resin but if you have stones on the other hand that will hold the heat and intensify.
most companies state in their instructions when mixing over X amount max depth drops to X. All epoxy is mass and temperature sensitive. I've seen a lot of people using cooling tables but if your shop (or the pour) falls below 60°F the epoxy could stall out so its a double edged sword.
The Black Forest guys know what they're doing for sure.
It’s a shame how this one turned out, but a good lesson learned I guess. I really do appreciate you guys posting this and mistakes that are made in the process of your projects. Glad that you are willing to share those with us. We probably learn more for the mistakes than we do from the successes.
I was expecting the cracks to be filled with a dark epoxy, just to make "intentional inclusions." But pretty cool that the existing tinted product was still available to fill those cracks. Definitely stopped the puck right on the goal line with this build.. lol
It sure turned out a whole lot better than I thought it was going to half way though the video, nice work!
Thanks brother!
I reckon if you'd stained the wood a few shades darker, kinda antique pine it mightve helped the logo stand out some more🤔
Personal, learning from mistakes are priceless. The fact your still keeping-using is gargantuan. That’s right gargantuan! Everyday looking at the perception of wrong, inspired. Love it. Keep being squrealle.
I've been able to reuse resin from scraps by shaving the resin into resin chips and adding them to a different pour, and you usually won't be able to see them. It has saved me a ton of money on pours.
I’m thinking adding either all white led lights on the underside, or maybe a mix of blue and red? Idk. Would really make those colours brighten up. Could be worth a try. Shine a flashlight under there and see how it looks
Solid salvage effort boys! haha, I will say when I made my river table, I had a lot of luck using a $2-$3 syringe to inject epoxy into those more pesky cracks/voids after surfacing. Makes a notable difference in how well it penetrates the void and how easy sanding is later. Hope that helps!
I think for the blue side, you would have done either 1 blue bucket or 2 blue buckets and the other buckets clear. This would have allow the clear stay light and shine. However, I still love it! Nice job you guys!
Really surprised you haven't invested in a water cooled table yet, I don't think this is the first time you could have used it.
Hey man, you got a great channel, very entertaining and I recognize some of the CJS techniques. I have been with Derral for 4 weeks in CJS hoping to figure my crap out and skyrocket dis sum-gum!✌️
HEy Duncan , goodluck! Its good stuff
Love the logo in the middle! I looks like you planned it that way!
Maybe try to pour thinner layers over a longer period so there wont be so much thermal stress.
Absolutely beautiful work!
I was thinking a series of 1 inch holes in the epoxy separation "baffle" might allow for a mingling of the colored epoxy that would resemble a finger joint made from the epoxy. Maybe, maybe not.
The CNC'ed logo is spectacular instead.
I use super clear as well its great to pour 4 5 inches but you need to drop the shop temperature in the room. Also if your doing deep pours make a table that you can chill. It helps draw some heat away.
I’m doing a smaller 3 gallon project in the next few weeks. I don’t have a chilled table, but I am thinking about cutting up some conduit “rollers” for air flow underneath. I will let you know how it goes.
The one project “Let us Spray” could’ve been replaced with “Spray and Pray”
More like "Let us get squirrelly"
Came here to say exactly this!
Great save! I bet it would have looked awesome if you had swip swapped the colors. Put the red epoxy in the blue cracks and vice versa. And maybe for a future project you can make the epoxy crack on purpose and fill the cracks with a complimentary color.
Hahah I think we wouldve had to let it dry, the colors didn't mix very well.
@@John_Malecki Yeah that's what I meant. Let it dry with the cracks then fill those cracks with a different color epoxy. Just a wild thought! Keep up the great content. You're one of my favs!
Thanks for sharing this with us. It's not everyday "influencers" share their failures and mistakes
The entire vibe of this team is A1. I've worked with a lot of crews and the difference between a good day and a bad day has less to do with what you are doing, but the skill and patience of the people you are doing it with.
i randomly stumbled across your videos and now i am addicted! made me wanna try some projects
Jorden nailed it! Call it the Jell-O shot!
So glad you tried this concept. I was thinking of doing something very similar (down the road) for a conference table for a friend of mine's business. For that thickness, I guess a 2 pour option would work best- maybe clear first then come back and damn up a split with the red and blue. Oh, and I was thinking as I watched this, you could have possibly hit the letters in the logo with a torch to help them stand out against the white a bit more. just my 2 cents.... they're worth much less now due to inflation. Cheers!
55
I love seeing people that are sort of great kinda blow it and then recover. We all make mistakes but we don't always realize we all make mistakes. Somehow, in a way I can't quite articulate, the world needs more of this video.
I like the logo addition. It is smart and effective.
Curious what the blue and red would look like with an diffused led panel underneath
You always have resin that turns out clear. How do you get rid of micro bubbles. I’ve used a blow torch I’ve let it sit for about 10 mins but i normally end up with micro bubbles. Any advice would be much appreciated
Y'know, if you could harness the cracking and use some really pale blue resin it could make a neat glacier effect!
Wow that's one heck of a save. I think the powder blue from the black diamond brand would have been better. But I think the white liquid would have made the logo pop more. The liquid color I'm not a fan. Atleast you saved your table.. I couldn't save my first one.. between layers it didn't cure fully..but I took the cherry pieces out of it and turned them in to cutting boards. Great save gents 👏 👍
What tool do you use for sanding and polishing?
If you’ve ever wondered what it would be like if Bert Kreischer was a carpenter instead of a comedian, then this channel is for you.
Great cover up. You take on some crazy projects. Love it! Whenever using a light color on dark woods I use a white primer first which makes the colors true and it makes the epoxy look opaque.
I think the table turned out pretty good considering the issues with the epoxy pour. Plus, that is the only way you learn the limits of what you can and cannot do. Nice save on the table!!
I really think you a great job saving the table it looks great . What kind of polish do you use?
There’s this kind of RUclips watchers that love to watch people fail and then shit on them. I see it all the time. That’s not my thing. I love watching people making really cool stuff.
Despite that, these are some of my favorite videos to watch. It’s when things go wrong that we get to see how our favorite RUclipsrs’ minds work. It’s not the mishap that interests me, rather what they do next … how they fix or hide a mistake. That stuff is RUclips gold.
Would have looked cool if you had filled the cracks with a solid white, would have highlighted them as a design feature instead of trying to minimize the cracks
The Total Boat pump and dump! Love that!
This is a great video. I think that seeing professionals encounter challenges and how they manage them is very interesting!
Shop light safety tubes for the molds. Modified to get a tapered shape your looking for. And you can see air bubbles easy. Just a idea.
Still did a good job on recovering what most would consider a loss.
I'd want that table...maybe not for the price of all the parts & labor but that looks like a nice tabletop
Question i i may ask
You buff epoxy until what gradiation?? Becuase after that you use 2 part varnish...and it looks like epoxy is well buffed..
You could make end tables or coffee tables, with the pieces you cut off the slabs, for ones that live in apartments or smaller spaces.
Ok, here's the problem. When you pour epoxy for a river table, if it's over 1 inch thick you cannot use normal epoxy. You have to use casting epoxy. Is an epoxy that hardens but not as rigid as normal epoxy. That way when epoxy heats up (it will since epoxy cures with heat) it can expands and then as it cools and contracts, it doesn't crack. After you finish pouring the casting epoxy then use normal epoxy for a clear top coat
Nice recovery
should put led lights underneath to shine through the resin, would make the blue more blue
Great idea with the logo….saved the table 👏
stick some light under the table to shine through that will make the color pop.
How to clean your 5 gallon buckets or is it one and done
Just a wild idea, but is there any way to further propogate cracks in the resin? Hitting it with a hammer to further crack it, then filling in with the resin? Maybe adding cracks might have both masked the error while adding more visual flair...
Always a great time to see a new video guys. We live and learn an learn to live. John and boys. Can't wait to see more videos soon guys. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld on. Keep making. Stay squirrely. God Bless.
Would that be strong enough for a see thru door?
With a "frame" all around it,probally
What are those "toothy" hold-down clamps that you used on the CNC to grab the slab from the side?
Could you light it from underneath to bring out the blue more?
How do they always manage to fog up the resin
Nice save. What would have happened if youI had let the red and blue mix. I think it would have been nice.
Try laying down a base layer of color. Let it cure, but don't let it completely set. Pour a send layer of clear over the base. Same effect, but much more forgiving if mistakes are made. All the imperfections can be fixed, prior pouring the clear.
Hey man, i have no idea how to get ahold of you I create content full time on twitch. my house burnt down live on stream in January. my family heirloom table was scorched in the process but is still intact and has a cool char on it. I would love to be able to send it to you for you to create a new table with the burned one. this would mean the world to me! PLEASE. i have no time limit I dont care if it takes you a year. they just finished deconstruction so we dont plan to be back in the house for another 6 months.
Love the vid man! God Bless
If you go to the description, or have watched some of the other videos, he has about 5 different ways to contact him.
Finish on the polished epoxy?
I think it came out awesome. With a light bulb under the table to light up the epoxy would look amazing.
Amazing efforts boys …what is the name of spray u did at end of u don’t mind telling me 😊
try mixing in white or clear buckets. hard to tell the color in a orange bucket
You know what? I liked it! It turned out great! 😃
Really well done, guys!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I think that’s a cool table, hello from south wales 🏴
Also a another idea can you guys bring back 3 different ways to build something
regardless of the finished product, always enjoy your vids and throwing caution to the wind approach to your craftsmanship...just like your "pancakes on Sundays", it's always flat out fun visiting your channel...rock on, young MAN!
Hope to see you come back again!
I think i mightve hit all the resin with some type of air hammer and re poured another couple gallons and just lived with a fractle looking design between the two. Still cool tho
which one of you guys was in the BRO?
On the bright side the cracks really help to deliver the jolly rancher vibe lmao
God bro your the embodiment of how I want to do a woodworking shop. Fuckin around, havin fun, and getting shit done. If only I had millis I could actually make a shop lol
Almost like you should have embraced the cracks. added a few and done some gold resin to make it look like you did some Kintsugi could have been sweet. but at least you saved it. But i would like to see an epoxy attempt at Kintsugi!
I wonder if using a thin piece of
Acrylic for the dam would have worked better. Maybe even giving you an option to just leave it in place when all was said and done
I did the same under coloring with the same white pigment. I think I needed to add a liquid white to it also
PIGMENTS THAT ARE UNMIXED WILL DROP TO THE BOTTOM OF THE MOLD. RESIN DYE ARE MUCH EASIER TO USE
2:12 is that like in the dictionary under redundant it says see redundant?
That table was awesome
should've used clear mylar (can be purchased cheap @ joanns sewing section using coupon). mylar can withstand heat (does warp at very high temp). but for the table, any warping in the mylar will add to the effect looking more realistic.
Epoxy pour tables will become the clear coat wood cookie clocks of the 70's
So what happenned, did the ac go out in the middle of the night or did you need to be running fans on it to keep it cool?
I Love John's Videos 💗✌🏻💐
Black Diamond pigments are great, but the white you used just doesn't get opaque without thickening the epoxy at ¼". Better to add an opaque white with it, or put white primer down first.
any way to outline the logo on the cnc to make it pop more? Zero and then do an offset, fill with a darker color/black...
Lots of questions ran through my head when he said he was going to pour 4 inches. Like: Why? Just to have a funny video title? If you already have your dye ratio, 2 pours of 2inches would be far less risk.
it wouldn't have cracked so bad either lol
i think it was bc he wanted to pull the dam out and swirl the two sides together and then under light it if he had down 2 pours it would have looked kind of odd .... cool idea but really not game plan like lets cool the room as much as possible as it did have ac and or check on it in the night to see how it was going
Hey John! Thanks for all you and your team provide. My friends and I love watching your builds and learning. We are getting a CNC and we’re curious what you charge people to use yours? Is it let job? Per hour? How would you recommend going about that? Thanks!
Nice save! I might have put the logo the other way so it is red white and blue instead of blue white and red but Que Dieu bénisse les USA.
Came out great, didn’t suck!
Shame it didn't got to plan, excellent save tho I've got to admit 👌🤘🤘🤘
I still like it ,,,, would have used silver shade instead of white!,,, I think that would Ben a better contrast,,,
It looks amazing.
I reckon a super dark stain on the wood would work to make it less "sucky"... still better than anything I've ever made
Another great one. Thanks for sharing!
Put some led strips underneath to help lighten the blue.
Darker wood might have helped save it , looks great though
It stands a lesson. It stands as a functional table. It stands as a fun video. It stands as a team effort. It stands as a rescue. You three can stand by it proud.
Love the video! It turned out pretty nice! More like a potted plant instead of a dog poo!! 😛 Have a great week!
Put some LED lights underneath for the blue to be better visible... Just an idea
I think it looks great bro! you guys did a great job! :)
I'm going to have to ask did dewalt sponsor you to get their saw stuck in the beginning? I'm also noticing Jordan's dewalt hoodie. And also mixing the epoxy with the dewalt drill that doesn't have enough power 😂
thumbs upped the video.... thumbs down on the table. live and learn though . Good job guys