My Paint Jobs Improved by 100% After This Simple Adjustment!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- In this video I will show you the simplest that you can start using right away on your jobs if you're looking to contain the blends better when painting difficult colors.
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That intro hurt my feelings
Had to Pin this 😇😇😇
I seldom ever leave comments, but I wanted to say thank you for the videos. I'm a primarily self-taught painter that has had a local retired painter help me along the way from time to time. I have owned and operated an auto body repair shop for a few years now. I've learned different techniques and tips from your videos that have improved my painting. Keep up the great content, it's appreciated more than you know.
Thats awesome. What a pleasure for me to be able to help you even without even knowing you!
Hey Brian. I saw in the intro your shirt was soaked. Nice cool 100 degree evening in Florida?😂. Hope you and family are safe after Helene. The vehicle came out amazing. Looks stunning in the sun.
That was the second shirt by 10am lol. It was 98 in the booth when I started painting. Helene gave us a day off from school and some downed branches. It was a nice little break for us. Thanks for the comment Jim !
I sprayed a bicycle with metalic blue with added mica elpoxy pigment it took about 8 coats and if you look close you can still see mottling i guess epoxy pigment aint ment to be added to spray paint i was putting about 1/2 teaspoon to oz
My paint gun here now mate, next I'll going for on this ford ka, I'll drop you a link 👍
It 22.50pm in UK 👍
Nice!
Excellent job Brain…
Thank you kindly
❤ boom what job that is 👍👍👌
You born to do this
I enjoy it most of the time!
Great videos. A little request would be some info, maybe in one of the corners on actual time (so we could see the intervals), temperature, humidity, Etc.
Yes this is a great idea, I will add for next
Great work.
Sometimes - Overthink it.
It's not just paint.
Haha sometimes you do!
I noticed that you taped up your spray cup to eliminate any chance for material to leak out or create any drips when you were doing the Clear Coat.
No, I tape it up because old paint starts to flake off the cup from previous paint jobs
Learned something new. Came out great. Thanks
Thank you!!
Funny to see such a small adjustment make such a big difference. I typically paint motorcycles so tubular frames, small panels with a lot of shapes & corners. My gun is never (or rarely) set to full fan/full fluid nor is the tip set to spray horizontally. There are many times when my fan is almost a circle in order to get into small voids. And I'm changing the fan & fluid pattern constantly while I'm painting. This is just another great video showing how dynamic you need to be when painting. Thanks Brian!!
I'm getting famous for my horrible paint jobs. Cause when they see beautiful work like yours, they still ask, "Who did this gorgeous paint job?". But when people see my work, they immediately know who did it! With my paint jobs, I schedule an appraisal date, a primer date, and a paint date. Then when my customer sees the job, they schedule a court date.
Hahaha great laugh ty
@@PaintSociety I love your videos, even though I can't remotely consider myself a painter. I like to lighten things up and hopefully give some people a little laughter in the process. Thanks for all the great videos!
What is this transparent basis that you applied over the Conza Fund?
Thanks for making this video that I was asking how to blend tri-coat red Bryan. Looking to see some day for Tesla PPMR red 😊
Awesome video Brian!
Glad you think so!
I’m 19 F and I just painting my first fender last weeek , so much to learn but ur so helpful!
Awesome advice! Thank you 🙏
Great info.Not a car painter. But have painted back in the day With Dupont Centari an a binks #7 gun....
💪😎🎸 KILLA 🎸👻
😀😀
Does sikkens have a waterbase system
They have autowave. Never used it. Theres a chance we might see spies water in the future
@@PaintSocietyyou will love the Spies! I spray Standox water which is the same as Spies. It will be so much faster than your Sickens. However I have to say the new 100 line from BASF looks really good as well.
@@JR-ho5qm i feel like we can get some smoother n cleaner jobs with water. I seen kandy man do it with ppg. His work comes out smooth. No buffing
@PaintSociety kandy man has switched over to glasurit water but I'm sure you know that
@@nickmadding5013 yea. Waiting for him to invite me to shop and make me pizza. Maybe he will read this
AMAZING JOB!!
Thanks ❤❤❤
I would like you to paint the hood and the roof of my 2014 Red Honda Civic Si
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎
Thank you!
Geniune question. This is the first time I saw your sprayed base coat looked blochy/patchy right before clear. Like the sprayed area looked different than original paint. I thought it should always look super smooth like satin. I deal with same problem on various colors especially black. Is that a normal thing? Clear covers it up? Because clear does not cover up silver metallic blotchyness, so why this color?
Sometimes the appearance can appear patchy due to the different sheen levels that it actually is drying, but once a clearcoat hits it, it clears it up
Nice job buddy…Well done.😊
Do u have any videos about beginner compresors? I bought myself silent non oil compresor about 13 gal. It gets realy hot and produces alot of water in my filters. Although i have lvlp the preshure drops slowly after like 1.5 mins of use. But suply preshure is much higher than my 20-30psi... so im clules why it starts to drop. :(
I dont but get yourself the largest compressor you can run off 120v, usually 30 gallons will do for small DIY projects
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Brian, wanted to ask you a technical question. I have almost finished my 1st attempt at painting an entire car. I painted my 69 Camaro black which I knew would stretch my ability. My question is around orange peal in my clear coat. My tech sheet for my paint says PSI should be between 25 and 40. Being one never willing to give up I solved my orange peal by spraying 4 coats of clear and cutting/buffing to a nice finish. You always seem to spray clear at a much lower PSI than 25. I haven't tried going lower (yet). My biggest concern is the cost of clear is HIGH, and the time it takes to make the job look good is a problem. I'm using the Astro Eurohe103 for clear. Any recommendations you could provide would be much appreciated.
But lowering PSI around 23-26, you will have more fluid going on the panel instead of air drying up that fluid in the form of overspray before it hits the panel. Slow down the passes and lower the psi a little and watch what the clear is doing. 😀
I bought primer with hardener... it is suposed to be a surfacer primer. But it seams to be to thick for my setup. it comes out to patchy and i have to move close to get it somewhat nice and wet. Today im going to corect it with sand paper and reaply. But this time im going to reduce it acetone.. about 10 percent. Ho smart or.. not smart is it to use pure acetone?
By the way this is my first paintjob ever. I was so scared to do it. Bu had plenty of material and a fender i can mes around. At the end of the work i thoutgh to myself.. dont worry.. its just paint :D Thank u for what u are doing here!
Try and use 1.8 fluid tip. You dont want to thin out the primer
Been out of the booth for years, remember my first intro to a 3 stage paint (Acura NSX early 90s).. challenging to say the least!!!
Oh yes. Those tri coats will make you think twice about your job hahha
Beautiful result my friend ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Drink some pedía lite to hydrate or at least some Jupiña 😂
You seen jupina on my channel before. Keep watching. Youll see it again!
I want to say thank you for all your videos, they helped me so much painted my 1st, a Jag MDZ color (Silver Metallic) and looks great cuz of you and Rex at ColorVision Spfld, MO!
That is awesome!
I was spraying sherwin 7000 🤮 and had to watch waterborne RUclipsrs to save my job. They called it reverse blending. 👍
Reverse blending on these jobs really helps out
Awesome info. Thanks for sharing brother!! Good stuff. Awesome skills…
Thanks for watching!
Mann how you holding up on in Florida after the storm
East coast was just some wind, prayers for the west coat and up north
As a sole trading bodyshop I would quite happily pass on a car that came in with this repair and colour ,I’ve painted it once and that was enough for me it’s not worth the hassle and there’s plenty other repairs to fill the gap
Exactly. As a painter I feel like some jobs I just need to pass on.
Brian or anyone viewing this: if you have a traditional gun washer, start putting your pps cups in there. Yeah they come out a little spotty but it keeps that loose junk off of there.
Great idea!
What was the clear liquid(in the squirt bottle) that you added after adding thinner to your blend coat?
Extra slow reducer
I discovered the "outside in" blend method years ago and it works great for me!
It works!
Always a great watch learn something new everytime 👌
Glad you like them!
What clear cout you recommend for the garage? 20°C
Fc710
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Thx for the Vid Brian, just picked up a DFT
Enjoy it
Phenomenal job Brian! Nice one.. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it!
What psi u clear at with the series 2 iwata
26psi
I like this technique 👍
It helps. Anything to help with this color 😂
@@PaintSociety yup it’s always a tuff one. 😁
Family is gone and back at it again?
Finally got time to edit this previously recorded one
I finish with my blends using the top of the fan. There is less overspray. That red car I would of kept the cap turned up and down for a better blend. On a blend panel that has curves like blending into a fender or quarter.
I paint in a circular motion using the top of the fan for my final blend coats.
I too will thin my final coats to reduce the harsh edge and finish with a drop coat blend to get the metallics on silver ,light golds and light blues.
Using the top of the fan to cut the overspray down gets me the seamless blends that I look for.
The last 3 young painters that I have shown this technique to have improved there blending finishes to undetectable on most of their jobs. Surprised more painters haven't picked up on this. Started my career in 1971 and now just help the young bucks( been sick 3 times from the paint game).
Wow! Been in the game a while! My honor to have you watch my videos! Great tips. Will try this
@PaintSociety I started doing this 1985 because I didn't like how dark my golds were coming out. Typical
blends show good color and motility control until you see a dark vertical band with a darker blend with motiling.
By arching your gun in a circular motion
you eliminate any rainbow and motility in the blend.
Of course color must not be too red or green or gold and not too dark( with the correct size metallic even if you have to change that a little). I was able to blend the hoods only using the first 6-9 inches of the hood on silvers, golds, pearl whites and have them undetectable from any angle. Play around with it. The pattern doesn't have to be a circle as long as you use the top of the fan.
With this technique I have been able to blend in as little as 4 inches blending the first couple of coats and sand with 1,000 or 1,200 wet or dry. Then thin the paint for the final blend keeping any color off the edge of the tape line. I think you will be very happy with the results. I telltale young bucks to plan out your primer areas( keeping them small as possible) and where you can hide the blend areas in the the curved panels as well as where you might get a run or sag. So you know where to back off a bit.
P.s Have you rried System 51 polish for your cut and buffs. Does not break down and gray out your clear coat blacks. It can be hand rubbed with no hazing or swirls. Use a micro finish cloth wet and rung out. Water base so even if bakes in the cracks for a day in the hot sun. It will pressure wash right out without staining the paint.You can find it online. Watch the instruction video.
Helped my buddy get his Sema car ready in 2007 using this product. He told me they never would have finished in time without it. Does not stain moldings or rubbers. Well, past my bedtime for these old bones.😉
@PaintSociety p.s keep your gun square to the panel on the blends and not fan it out. People tell me I shoot like a robot. That's what it takes to duplicate those factory robots
Are you using a clear base after applying the sealer?
Thats the blending additive. Did you see that part? Its the shot right after the sealer 😀
@@PaintSociety I just wasn’t sure what it was. I am actually going to paint the bumper on my truck to repair some scratches and know I need to blend it. First time trying this so it should be interesting.
$90 wow😢
But if you consider the ease of use compared to having to spray etch or epoxy over a much bigger area stripped to metal, it makes more sense
Nice tips!
Waiting on the resto series !
What if when you apply the clear coat you see some contour mapping ? Would it be a redo ?
Maybe it can be buffed later on
@@PaintSociety 🤞I’m waiting until Monday to buff it and find out ty for your advice and expertise I learn so much every video
@@mushiriderchannel9087 try 2000 grit and buff
that colour like mazda 46v code, this colour is very hard to spray ,I made a mistake once and sprayed too much and the color turned darker，and most of the time it’s hard to get the color right if you don’t spray it with other parts.
Yes that can happen too quick. You gotta start over when it happens
Very similar approach to some industry training I had when Pearls first began to appear on new cars around 1990.
Can you imagine! 90s when the pearls started rolling😀😀
@@PaintSociety I was in New Zealand at the time working on rich men's cars.. so using mostly Glasurit products. We had educators from Europe come over and show us the how to with three layer Pearls... and we got to beat up the panels before repairing and refinishing. That was fun. We were the first to import HVLP gravity feed guns in various sizes for different layers, and when I returned to Australia 4 years later no one had heard of HVLP guns other than the old pressure vessel type.
@@oldieman730 good info! Wow. Seems like you been around paint for a while !
@@PaintSociety Last century hahaha. Retired now. I like what you're doing on this channel, it must help a lot of up and coming painters.
Thats the aim! I really hope it is! Ty😀😀
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great tip wonderful i do enjoy the whole process from prep to finish
Ty for watching
Back to using a real Devilbiss I see rather than that chinese copy shit. I really like Devilbiss DV1-B. Especially for metallics and pearls. IMO the Dv1's and the ANI 200 Skull Edition that comes with 3 different air caps are about the best guns out there. I have been putting a lot of time in with the ANI lately. Not crazy about the skulls on the body and would sooner it be all black but the performance is good enough for me to deal with the cosmetics. Digital guage on it works awsome too
I only use the DV1. The knock off video was for folks unable to spend the $700
@@PaintSocietyfor a budget gun I feel Porphis made in Taiwan is about the best budget guns out there. I have a couple and suprised in how well they work for the price and they are Sata type clones for the most part as far as the body but with features that are different. Taiwan is a little better than china made stuff. You should do a review on one, will suprise you
is that the new Iwata Supernova you cleared with? I know you like Iwata's. Does it make a lot of overspray like the original Supernova clear gun did or is it a little better now?