I think you'll probably find that the reason there was better efficiency after putting the ebay cooler and the new piping was cause it was clean and sludge free. Technically speaking, the intercooler only allows cooler denser air to the engine giving more oxygen by volume so the engine can burn more fuel and therefore produce slightly more power, but this will lead to higher EGT. What you need is a better free flowing exhaust (3inch) to dispel the gasses out quicker
The factory intercoooler does not press out or lever out under normal boost settings.This only happens when you are over boosting meaning you need to address why you are over boosting. The ecu does a terrible job in controlling boost, that’s why most install a Dawes or tiller valve. Even a needle valve once the vacuum solenoid is bypassed. Referred to as NADS.Your high EGTs are what is going to damage your engine. The EGTs should never exceed 550 degrees for long periods of time on a Zd30di.Anything above 550 you’re risking blowing up the motor.A 3inch exhaust or 2.75 will help with this. Over boosting is part of the way these engines were designed. I would highly recommend a catch can also as the oil mist effects the way the engine runs, that the oil buildup in intercooler just leaks out when end tanks start pressing out .Once you maf sensor gets oil mist it starts over fuelling and overboosting creating the press out or levering out effect your are describing. Fix these issues and you won’t need to replace factory Intercooler, but overtime they will leak boost. Most just replace with welded end tanks or upgrade to CCIC or HPD intercooler. Both come with fan on them.
Also the problem with the ebay intercoolers is the veins and airflow around the veins allot of them will make an intercooler with larger veins and claim "it's for greater air flow" when in reality it's just cheaper to produce the larger the veins the more airflow yes but also the less cooling you get this is why your not meant to buy from ebay but as someone who is currently looking for a intercooler since mine has gone bye bye it was good to see there were other positives to it aside from just the cooling aspect
I have the same zd30 without overheating issue. But the coolant temperature sits quite high like 95degree when I drive uphill to kalamunda. Normal temp usually sits 87degree.
As a Nissan owner with a zd30 I can confidently say a 1hz owner would not care about being smoked at the lights because while we frantically try and stop our pos' from blowing up they're in the bush limiter bashing the f out of their cars without a worry in the world
the only reason your car may have been quicker is because the air system was leaking boost with the previous broken intercooler. if oil can get out, air can get it. it has nothing to do with the brand of intercooler itself
Please go study your facts before making wild statements. Pat's are not known for running hot, that is the engine known as the "Kettle" aka the TD42 that is commonally pushed way past it's designed limits. The ZD30 runs way better with a very good cooling design. Head cracking is from poor tuning and glow-plugs running too long. Melted rear pistons is thanks to EGR junk and poor intake maniflold design. The EGT claim of 550° is too wider statement, where are you measuring? Most are after the turbo which is cooler than pre-turbo. Leave the thermostat alone, stop following bad advice. The high EGT's you are seeing is your low boost. Get it upto 16-18PSI and see what happens. TMIC's will never beat a FMIC. Your stocker is a flow restriction. Just for a stir, I have aroung 9-10 kays per litre and EGT's of 250° at 100KPH and max EGT of 465° on a full power climb up long 10% grades while holding the 100 fully loaded.
Thanks for the comment Ben, seems like you know heaps. I hope you don't mind a few questions. My EGT's are measured just after the turbo, what sort of temps are reasonable knowing that? If this was your car, what would you do next? And what setup do you run to get numbers like those 👀?
@@NextStopTouring EGT's post snail, very common for most people as adding bung in new dump pipe or existing is way easier than drilling and tapping the cast manifold but as noted, temps here will be lower than measured pre-turbine, especially at lower flow/power levels. On the berries, the pre-post values will be closer. What's a little more differnet with mine is that I run a "Turbo-Beanie" (Blanket) on my turbo to keep heat in it and not in the engine bay, same goes with my dump pipe that's also wrapped. So, with a Positive Boost actuator set at 20PSI, I can cruise around town in the 50-60kph zones doing well under the 200°C with 7-12PSI boost. Out on the highway at around 100kph, I sit on 270-310°C with 13-15PSI but what also helps, I have a 600x300x75mm FMIC so my boost charge is always around ambient. Mods to do - Get bigger TMIC with draw-down fan or go full FMIC, get boost up to 16PSI with a boost style actuator, no, I don't have time for the mess of Dawes/Tillix valve crap. Get the EGR blocked (block both ends and remove back pipe, boost curve moves forward about 200RPM), fule lift pump is great way to help the VP44 and avoid killing it. Carter Black pumps mounted down the back are a great option.
![GU PATROL Intercooler Upgrade ZD30 - [ Sparks Fly Off The Bonnet ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlTG_Bcmxt4/mqdefault.jpg)
![GU PATROL Intercooler Upgrade ZD30 - [ Sparks Fly Off The Bonnet ]](/img/tr.png)
![Intercooler Upgrade and Turbo Upgrade - [ Can You Run An Intercooler Without A Turbo ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mkivngmKOQY/mqdefault.jpg)
I think you'll probably find that the reason there was better efficiency after putting the ebay cooler and the new piping was cause it was clean and sludge free. Technically speaking, the intercooler only allows cooler denser air to the engine giving more oxygen by volume so the engine can burn more fuel and therefore produce slightly more power, but this will lead to higher EGT. What you need is a better free flowing exhaust (3inch) to dispel the gasses out quicker
The factory intercoooler does not press out or lever out under normal boost settings.This only happens when you are over boosting meaning you need to address why you are over boosting. The ecu does a terrible job in controlling boost, that’s why most install a Dawes or tiller valve. Even a needle valve once the vacuum solenoid is bypassed. Referred to as NADS.Your high EGTs are what is going to damage your engine. The EGTs should never exceed 550 degrees for long periods of time on a Zd30di.Anything above 550 you’re risking blowing up the motor.A 3inch exhaust or 2.75 will help with this. Over boosting is part of the way these engines were designed. I would highly recommend a catch can also as the oil mist effects the way the engine runs, that the oil buildup in intercooler just leaks out when end tanks start pressing out .Once you maf sensor gets oil mist it starts over fuelling and overboosting creating the press out or levering out effect your are describing. Fix these issues and you won’t need to replace factory Intercooler, but overtime they will leak boost. Most just replace with welded end tanks or upgrade to CCIC or HPD intercooler. Both come with fan on them.
Also the problem with the ebay intercoolers is the veins and airflow around the veins allot of them will make an intercooler with larger veins and claim "it's for greater air flow" when in reality it's just cheaper to produce the larger the veins the more airflow yes but also the less cooling you get this is why your not meant to buy from ebay but as someone who is currently looking for a intercooler since mine has gone bye bye it was good to see there were other positives to it aside from just the cooling aspect
I have the same zd30 without overheating issue. But the coolant temperature sits quite high like 95degree when I drive uphill to kalamunda. Normal temp usually sits 87degree.
That sounds fairly normal, I'd worry if you start seeing higher than 95!
You need a bigger scoop i think, with the stock scoop it might be as effective. It's still a money well spent i reckon.
18 psi if no limp mode keeps things cooler. Too much needle valve can get things real hot real quick. Only wind out one turn max for economy.
As a Nissan owner with a zd30 I can confidently say a 1hz owner would not care about being smoked at the lights because while we frantically try and stop our pos' from blowing up they're in the bush limiter bashing the f out of their cars without a worry in the world
Cool video guys but...You need more dogs in the videos :)
the only reason your car may have been quicker is because the air system was leaking boost with the previous broken intercooler. if oil can get out, air can get it. it has nothing to do with the brand of intercooler itself
Dude you are low boosting that's why it's heating up that quick. Fix your boost!
Please go study your facts before making wild statements. Pat's are not known for running hot, that is the engine known as the "Kettle" aka the TD42 that is commonally pushed way past it's designed limits. The ZD30 runs way better with a very good cooling design. Head cracking is from poor tuning and glow-plugs running too long. Melted rear pistons is thanks to EGR junk and poor intake maniflold design. The EGT claim of 550° is too wider statement, where are you measuring? Most are after the turbo which is cooler than pre-turbo. Leave the thermostat alone, stop following bad advice.
The high EGT's you are seeing is your low boost. Get it upto 16-18PSI and see what happens. TMIC's will never beat a FMIC. Your stocker is a flow restriction. Just for a stir, I have aroung 9-10 kays per litre and EGT's of 250° at 100KPH and max EGT of 465° on a full power climb up long 10% grades while holding the 100 fully loaded.
Thanks for the comment Ben, seems like you know heaps. I hope you don't mind a few questions.
My EGT's are measured just after the turbo, what sort of temps are reasonable knowing that?
If this was your car, what would you do next?
And what setup do you run to get numbers like those 👀?
@@NextStopTouring EGT's post snail, very common for most people as adding bung in new dump pipe or existing is way easier than drilling and tapping the cast manifold but as noted, temps here will be lower than measured pre-turbine, especially at lower flow/power levels. On the berries, the pre-post values will be closer. What's a little more differnet with mine is that I run a "Turbo-Beanie" (Blanket) on my turbo to keep heat in it and not in the engine bay, same goes with my dump pipe that's also wrapped. So, with a Positive Boost actuator set at 20PSI, I can cruise around town in the 50-60kph zones doing well under the 200°C with 7-12PSI boost. Out on the highway at around 100kph, I sit on 270-310°C with 13-15PSI but what also helps, I have a 600x300x75mm FMIC so my boost charge is always around ambient.
Mods to do - Get bigger TMIC with draw-down fan or go full FMIC, get boost up to 16PSI with a boost style actuator, no, I don't have time for the mess of Dawes/Tillix valve crap. Get the EGR blocked (block both ends and remove back pipe, boost curve moves forward about 200RPM), fule lift pump is great way to help the VP44 and avoid killing it. Carter Black pumps mounted down the back are a great option.
hHAHA what if it doesn't work !! 😎🛻🤙 alright let's see haha ..
woah your stock egts are way too high !! far out
all that oil on your intercooler ! you really need to take off your intake manifold and clean it out ..
your injectors might be leaking also ??
Yeah I suspect they are 🥲 I'm saving up to replace them but haven't decided whether I want to go bigger or stay stock