GU Patrol INTERCOOLER UPGRADE
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2024
- In this video I fit a dirt cheap eBay welded intercooler to the Patrol! Then we take it for a spin and compare temperatures to see whether this eBay special actually works and whether it's worth you getting one for your Patrol. Don't forget to subscribe, every subscriber helps us grow and keeps us motivated. And we've got heaps more mechanical content coming out along with the usual travel videos! Thanks for watching! - Xav
00:00 Keeping your ZD30 Cool
01:10 The Experiment / Stock Intercooler Testing
02:28 Unboxing
02:59 The Install
06:18 Welded Intercooler Testing
07:18 Is it better? My thoughts 
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![GU PATROL Intercooler Upgrade ZD30 - [ Sparks Fly Off The Bonnet ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlTG_Bcmxt4/mqdefault.jpg)
I think you'll probably find that the reason there was better efficiency after putting the ebay cooler and the new piping was cause it was clean and sludge free. Technically speaking, the intercooler only allows cooler denser air to the engine giving more oxygen by volume so the engine can burn more fuel and therefore produce slightly more power, but this will lead to higher EGT. What you need is a better free flowing exhaust (3inch) to dispel the gasses out quicker
You need a bigger scoop i think, with the stock scoop it might be as effective. It's still a money well spent i reckon.
I have the same zd30 without overheating issue. But the coolant temperature sits quite high like 95degree when I drive uphill to kalamunda. Normal temp usually sits 87degree.
That sounds fairly normal, I'd worry if you start seeing higher than 95!
Also the problem with the ebay intercoolers is the veins and airflow around the veins allot of them will make an intercooler with larger veins and claim "it's for greater air flow" when in reality it's just cheaper to produce the larger the veins the more airflow yes but also the less cooling you get this is why your not meant to buy from ebay but as someone who is currently looking for a intercooler since mine has gone bye bye it was good to see there were other positives to it aside from just the cooling aspect
Cool video guys but...You need more dogs in the videos :)
As a Nissan owner with a zd30 I can confidently say a 1hz owner would not care about being smoked at the lights because while we frantically try and stop our pos' from blowing up they're in the bush limiter bashing the f out of their cars without a worry in the world
18 psi if no limp mode keeps things cooler. Too much needle valve can get things real hot real quick. Only wind out one turn max for economy.
the only reason your car may have been quicker is because the air system was leaking boost with the previous broken intercooler. if oil can get out, air can get it. it has nothing to do with the brand of intercooler itself
Please go study your facts before making wild statements. Pat's are not known for running hot, that is the engine known as the "Kettle" aka the TD42 that is commonally pushed way past it's designed limits. The ZD30 runs way better with a very good cooling design. Head cracking is from poor tuning and glow-plugs running too long. Melted rear pistons is thanks to EGR junk and poor intake maniflold design. The EGT claim of 550° is too wider statement, where are you measuring? Most are after the turbo which is cooler than pre-turbo. Leave the thermostat alone, stop following bad advice.
The high EGT's you are seeing is your low boost. Get it upto 16-18PSI and see what happens. TMIC's will never beat a FMIC. Your stocker is a flow restriction. Just for a stir, I have aroung 9-10 kays per litre and EGT's of 250° at 100KPH and max EGT of 465° on a full power climb up long 10% grades while holding the 100 fully loaded.
Thanks for the comment Ben, seems like you know heaps. I hope you don't mind a few questions.
My EGT's are measured just after the turbo, what sort of temps are reasonable knowing that?
If this was your car, what would you do next?
And what setup do you run to get numbers like those 👀?
@@NextStopTouring EGT's post snail, very common for most people as adding bung in new dump pipe or existing is way easier than drilling and tapping the cast manifold but as noted, temps here will be lower than measured pre-turbine, especially at lower flow/power levels. On the berries, the pre-post values will be closer. What's a little more differnet with mine is that I run a "Turbo-Beanie" (Blanket) on my turbo to keep heat in it and not in the engine bay, same goes with my dump pipe that's also wrapped. So, with a Positive Boost actuator set at 20PSI, I can cruise around town in the 50-60kph zones doing well under the 200°C with 7-12PSI boost. Out on the highway at around 100kph, I sit on 270-310°C with 13-15PSI but what also helps, I have a 600x300x75mm FMIC so my boost charge is always around ambient.
Mods to do - Get bigger TMIC with draw-down fan or go full FMIC, get boost up to 16PSI with a boost style actuator, no, I don't have time for the mess of Dawes/Tillix valve crap. Get the EGR blocked (block both ends and remove back pipe, boost curve moves forward about 200RPM), fule lift pump is great way to help the VP44 and avoid killing it. Carter Black pumps mounted down the back are a great option.
hHAHA what if it doesn't work !! 😎🛻🤙 alright let's see haha ..
woah your stock egts are way too high !! far out
all that oil on your intercooler ! you really need to take off your intake manifold and clean it out ..
your injectors might be leaking also ??
Yeah I suspect they are 🥲 I'm saving up to replace them but haven't decided whether I want to go bigger or stay stock