I helped my son-n-law do his floor joists on a house he’s building, basically just like yours, and I was wore out after half a day of helping him and his dad. My point is many kudos for doing this yourself. Nice job.
Right! Been helping my step kids they grabbed a 2 bedroom 1 bath shell home Repo for 20k I gave them my other 1/2 acre lot , kids and I pulled electrical 98 feet from pole along with digging the trench took us a week and at 59 I thought that was going to kill me lol, brother and I ran all their electrical,I did their water lines from meter to house and ran all their lines under home that took me a month this last summer, told kids do your own insulation and showed them how, then they decided instead of window units they wanted mini splits so I ran another 3 240 lines and set up A/c disconnect boxs , told kids higher someone who knows drywall, tape and floating as this old woman is tired lol they are getting that started Dec 26th, free room and board ends in March I gave them 2 years to get home finished enough to move in . First year they sat playing video games and taking advantage while I was a over the road trucker I broke both legs off last December as I felt they were taking advantage of my kindness and they have been humping to get things done . A lot of whining pissing and moaning about being broke I told them welcome to being adults, at least they will have a home paid for in 4 years not many can say that
Just Beautiful & to watch quality work done too! Loved when the sun began going the filming slowed. May the Lord bless & keep you & yours & your new home.
Hey that is one solid floor. Great work! Just want to say, its good practice to cut the excess off those joists where they overlap. Not so much in this case because they are huge, but I've seen on lighter joists the ends deflect up as the centre span settles. Thus levering the flooring off the joists leading to loose and noisy floor. Yeah, you can put extra nails in, but really is easier just to cut to length...and offcuts great for blocking.
Awesome work, I've been watching all your videos and I've already started building my own house with three of my best friends, I'm 17 and wanna get it ready to move out and live with my friends once i hit 18. your videos are helping me a lot, thank you.
I can not thank you enough for using good ole southern yellow pine 2x12 for the floor joist! I prefer you use 3/4 inch plywood sheeting but I guess Advantech Sheeting was cheaper. Looking sooo good. Man I wish I could be there to have helped you, Cowboy. But if your like me....doing it yourself is very rewarding.
Good job, wish I could still do work like this. I would build myself a new house out on some acreage. I was a plumber for 35 years which you pick up how to do a lot of stuff but not everything
I hope to be starting my plumbing very soon. Still studying up on it right now thouh. Trying to make sure I fully understand the drain venting right now and whether I want to use pex a or b. I was all set for pex a until I found out it leaches more than pex b. Now I am looking into that before I decide which type to use.
First 10 years of a 30 years mortgage is interest if u just making schedule payments... #2 the material used to build that 200k house my brother don't cost but about 50k... Math is.math. Building your own home is way better than paying a long drawn out ass mortgage! At the end of 30years u pay for that house twice! Again! It's a damn rip off. Save money ppl. And build ur own dam home! You will love urself for it!
The joists going is was like the westerns were they guys are riding toward the camera on horseback. Each shot as they are coming toward you, they keep getting further away, lol. The house is looking very good though. I always love to see people do things that everybody else tells you, “you cant do that”. Keep working hard!
You seem skillful and you are doing a great job! You should be able to have square dances on that floor and not have to worry and sagging! Very good sir!
I'm a new sub and just started watching every video. I haven't seen any of the newer stuff so right now I'm thinking; "holy shit! Is he going to frame the whole house by hand?? No pneumatic nailer?" Haha
Did you have this engineered? I ask because the 2x that you call a rim board sitting on those block pillars are not strong enough or solid enough (In my opinion) to support the joists long term. Is the house up and you are living in it, any bounce? Any building inspectors needed? thanks, it's tough to work alone, used to do it all the time.
Do you doube layer the header floor joists (ie: the joists on the outside upright on the foundation that you nail all the other joists in to) when one ends and another begins?
What do you do about the varying widths of the floor joists? You line up the top of each joist with the to of the rim joists but what about the supports on the bottoms?
I noticed in the center wall of cinder blocks there are a couple of them that are turned. Is that to allow additional ventilation? I appreciate the videos!
My thought on measuring the distance between joists would be to measure and cut one piece to the correct size and use that for laying them out... Did you consider that, or is there a reason you used a measuring tape?
What would be the max. span (wall to wall) for a 2 by 12 soft wood ceiling joists (12 being vertical), that would not bend under snow or it's own weight? i'm looking for a direct approximate answer, i just don't get the online tables ?
What made you decide on 2 x 12 instead of having the truss company make an engineered floor truss or using an I joist? Also I never heard you say how far apart the columns were. I have plans for an 84' x 32' and was planning on running waste lines before I put on the sub floor any reason you didn't? Looks great so far and thanks for the info.
Knowing the floor dimensions are 32’x48’ I counted the columns and deduced the concrete block posts were 8’ apart. What I don’t understand is why the front sill plate was 2x12? None of the others were. ???
The first mistake you made regarding joist layout, was starting layout for your first joist at 16" on center. It should have been made at 15-1/4 inches and then, you should pulled the rest of the joist 16"on center from your first 15-1/4" layout from the rim/bond board. That 3/4 inch difference at the start, will allow the 4'x8' floor sheathing to land in the middle of the joist. Rookie move brother! You know damn well that you had to cut 3/4 of an inch, off of your first 4'x8' sheet of floor sheathing.
They are 2x12s. It's hard to say what size the porch rim joist would be if it weren't over a continuous wall. You would still have to put up some columns and then calculate based off other the distance between the columns and the number of joists that land on the joists between the columns.
im curious sir, when you fastened the rim joists to the sill plate, did you only nail them in toenail method or did you also attach something like lag screws from underneath? overlapping gives me a question due to the 1.5 inch offset on one side, did you attach a nailer joist every 8 feet ? if not then how did you account for that with the subfloor sheets? i noticed you used both an impact driver(them things are fun!) and a hammer, what was the reason for the 2 different tools used?
Why not put an end joist(sorry if wrong terminology) in the middle to cap off the floor joists and have them be lined up even on either half of the house? Instead of overlapping them and using block spacing?
+dan kane Yes mine are 2x12 and could span 20 ft with them being 16 inches on center. Here is a handy span calculator you may find useful. www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc
Yes, I will be putting down a vapor barrier, but not until all the work under the house is complete (wiring, plumbing, and insulation). It would have been easier to put it down first, but with my rocky soil I didn't want to risk puncturing it while I was crawling around doing other work. So it will just go in last.
an inside drainage system would have been a lot easier.. you could just have thrown #57s on top of the dirt then called it a day. a vapor barrier will just trap condensation and grow mold brother.
It seams code says no more than 12 inches of overlap, but I wanted them doubled up to help strengthen that area. I will be putting through bolts in them to prevent cantalevering.
+Drewnashleigh I was quoted 20,000 to have it done. But that was with 16" wide by 12" deep footers. I did it myself and used 16" x 16" and 22" x 16" footers for right at 12,000. And that is including all the equipment that I rented to remove the stumps, dig the footers, and a pump truck for the concrete. If I had to do it over though I would probably skip the forms and fast footer fabric and just pour directly into the ditches, which would bring it down to about 11,000.
I have always wondered why they don't use concrete beams and infill with concrete blocks rather than use wood for the foundation which will eventually get eaten by termites or just rot away?
I would have used Nudura ICF instead of block and I would have used Walltite from BASF on the foundation ground than pored a concrete foundation . But it is your house and it is a good build >
Funny thing is my father-in-law ex now! could not explain to me how to get the ledge that you're floor joist set on funny thing is he's a carpenter but seeing your video I Now understand that you had a header board laying flat on the peers then when you set your 2 by 8 or 10 whatever they were floor joist up that left a Ledge of about 2 inch on each side to put your floor joist on while you nail them in and it give it that support without having to use metal hangers at each one now according to him he cut a two by two and nailed it down the side of as floor joist and then cut out a 2 by 2 square on each floor joist to set in the groove which is kind of stupid after watching your video your setup you have is a much better deal than what he was explaining to me I'm fixing to lay up a floor so now I understand an easier way to do it
Just want to make sure you know that I did use metal hangers, they are in a later episode. The 2x2 he ripped down provides a lot more strength than the 2x12 I have laying flat. My purpose for that was to tie the columns together horizontaly, nor really for support of the joists. Although it did make a handy resting place while I nailed them off. But if you don't have that 2x2 attached securely to the side of your rim joist then I believe you're going to need to use metal hangers. Sorry for the confusion on that, the way I did it is NOT conventional and any framer that looks at it will likely accuse me of being an idiot. Which may be true, but it's my house and it's done the way I want. If I did it over again I would do it the same way again. Anyway, best if luck on your project.
It looks really great, but to us newbies, it sure would be super if you could at least tell us what size boards of treated pine you are using for your task at hand! (I think they are all 2”x12”s, but just not real sure! If so, why’d you go with that, as opposed to 2”x8”s or 2”x10”s for the floor joists? You planning on letting the cattle roam in there, too? LOL). Thanks for sharing your work, Sir!
You really should just go ahead and and cut a good portion of the joists as they are the same size then cut a bunch of the blocking then preposition them and then start nailing. Much faster install this way. Lay the raw joists on a set of sawhorses and then clamp them together and the make on cut across the whole width to the correct length measurement then you just have to temp stage them and start nailing. Having a bud at this point is an advantage....
I don't mean to be nosey but how much did the foundation job cost? Footing, rebar, labor exc. I'm debating on doing a crawl space or pier & beam foundation. I'd rather have a crawl space with but I'm not sure yet. I'm gone build a small 1200 square foot house.
A contractor quoted it for 21,000 and I doubled the size of the footer and did it myself. I think all the concrete and block cost me around 10 to 12 thousand.
I am into mine for about 100,000 at this point I think. I haven't totaled my receipts since episode 100. But like Valery said, location plays into that a lot. I am central AR, so we don't have hurricanes to contend with.
On the outer closest wall don't you have to put hangers on the outer Ren board since there is not a continously block wall under it and there are only pillars every 10 ft or so?
Absolutely! I think that is shown in one of the next few videos. I nailed all of the joists in place and then came back and installed hangers on all of them. It just took me more than one day to get it all done.
Yes... The unsupported sill plate can not be used in a bearing capacity.. also the end nails for joists are not allowed to be use in bearing either per international building code. Hangers would be required.
I'm from New Jersey and a 63 year old rock and roller, but this country music is great, sweet , great video thank you.
I helped my son-n-law do his floor joists on a house he’s building, basically just like yours, and I was wore out after half a day of helping him and his dad. My point is many kudos for doing this yourself. Nice job.
Right! Been helping my step kids they grabbed a 2 bedroom 1 bath shell home Repo for 20k I gave them my other 1/2 acre lot , kids and I pulled electrical 98 feet from pole along with digging the trench took us a week and at 59 I thought that was going to kill me lol, brother and I ran all their electrical,I did their water lines from meter to house and ran all their lines under home that took me a month this last summer, told kids do your own insulation and showed them how, then they decided instead of window units they wanted mini splits so I ran another 3 240 lines and set up A/c disconnect boxs , told kids higher someone who knows drywall, tape and floating as this old woman is tired lol they are getting that started Dec 26th, free room and board ends in March I gave them 2 years to get home finished enough to move in . First year they sat playing video games and taking advantage while I was a over the road trucker I broke both legs off last December as I felt they were taking advantage of my kindness and they have been humping to get things done . A lot of whining pissing and moaning about being broke I told them welcome to being adults, at least they will have a home paid for in 4 years not many can say that
Just Beautiful & to watch quality work done too! Loved when the sun began going the filming slowed. May the Lord bless & keep you & yours & your new home.
one of the best homesteading videos I've seen so far and I have watched hundreds.
Solid hard work by one person in one day, good for you sir.
Hey that is one solid floor. Great work!
Just want to say, its good practice to cut the excess off those joists where they overlap. Not so much in this case because they are huge, but I've seen on lighter joists the ends deflect up as the centre span settles. Thus levering the flooring off the joists leading to loose and noisy floor. Yeah, you can put extra nails in, but really is easier just to cut to length...and offcuts great for blocking.
Show me the joists
Being by yourself, you got a lot done. Thanks for the video.
this is absolutely wonderful work !!! thanks a lot for the storm of ideas it gave to me ... 👍👍👍
Looking at that floor I'm thinking you don't like springy floor. It is so nice to see someone going a quality job.
Looks great! Love the structure system 👍🏼
Building a home is a bucket-list item for me.
That's a damn good day's work for one man with a hammer.
one of my favorites of all time, humble, manly, smart, doesn't whine like so many. Boys line up and learn how to be a real man
That's awesome. Thanks for taking the time to share and make this video. I'm trying to learn to do this for myself.
Awesome job! Congrats to you for chasing your dream.
+Off Grid Jenn Thanks. The dream is real, and getting close every day.
Arkansas Homesteader did you finish
Awesome work, I've been watching all your videos and I've already started building my own house with three of my best friends, I'm 17 and wanna get it ready to move out and live with my friends once i hit 18.
your videos are helping me a lot, thank you.
Did you do it?
@@alexiz424 He's a Muslim, what do you think? Of course not.
Nice tidy work, good man.
Well done my man ! Excellent job
Looking good, great job. Next year I'm going to start building a small 2 storey home.
Looks great.
Hell of a job you did there .
Very informative & interesting.Thanks for sharing.👌
Nice work .. Looks great
That floor will last a 100 years. Looking good
Great job!
Nice job, we’re in the planning phase of our homestead house build right across the border in Louisiana 👊🏻
Hand nailing is the best way, that's old school and the best school. Show more videos as your going.
Well done. Its pretty
I can not thank you enough for using good ole southern yellow pine 2x12 for the floor joist! I prefer you use 3/4 inch plywood sheeting but I guess Advantech Sheeting was cheaper. Looking sooo good. Man I wish I could be there to have helped you, Cowboy. But if your like me....doing it yourself is very rewarding.
Good job, wish I could still do work like this. I would build myself a new house out on some acreage. I was a plumber for 35 years which you pick up how to do a lot of stuff but not everything
I hope to be starting my plumbing very soon. Still studying up on it right now thouh. Trying to make sure I fully understand the drain venting right now and whether I want to use pex a or b. I was all set for pex a until I found out it leaches more than pex b. Now I am looking into that before I decide which type to use.
Kevin, I'm still a plumber and I appreciate living far enough North where full basements are utilized. My knees can't take crawl spaces any more.
Looks so sharp 👌
Nice video, and a nice bit of work!
Love it. Beats the hell.out of a 30 years rip off mortgage
You got that right!
First 10 years of a 30 years mortgage is interest if u just making schedule payments... #2 the material used to build that 200k house my brother don't cost but about 50k... Math is.math. Building your own home is way better than paying a long drawn out ass mortgage! At the end of 30years u pay for that house twice! Again! It's a damn rip off. Save money ppl. And build ur own dam home! You will love urself for it!
Agreed. Way too much profit for lending you money considering they have a lien on the house.
Wow.... awesome!
good on you bro. nothing like doing it yourself.
Thanks, there is definitely a level of satisfaction in being able to say "I built with my own hands". Thanks for watching.
The joists going is was like the westerns were they guys are riding toward the camera on horseback. Each shot as they are coming toward you, they keep getting further away, lol. The house is looking very good though. I always love to see people do things that everybody else tells you, “you cant do that”. Keep working hard!
Show me
Good job... got it after the first couple... stayed for the music
Great video 👍🏽
Thanks for taking the time.
Solid Foundation , for one man Home Builder .
Very good!
You also said something about termite protection plan? What is that if you could answer me please?
You seem skillful and you are doing a great job! You should be able to have square dances on that floor and not have to worry and sagging! Very good sir!
Thanks. This is my first build, but I have tried to do my homework first.
Beautiful
I'm a new sub and just started watching every video. I haven't seen any of the newer stuff so right now I'm thinking; "holy shit! Is he going to frame the whole house by hand?? No pneumatic nailer?" Haha
Thats A nice size house, my bro
that is amazing work for one man show.
Did you have this engineered? I ask because the 2x that you call a rim board sitting on those block pillars are not strong enough or solid enough (In my opinion) to support the joists long term. Is the house up and you are living in it, any bounce? Any building inspectors needed? thanks, it's tough to work alone, used to do it all the time.
How has jt held up for you? Im wanting to do a similar foundation in texas
A1 video
Q: what size would you use for the beams that's on the sill plate?
Thanks
What size 2 × did you use on your seal plate on top your cender blocks ?
Do you doube layer the header floor joists (ie: the joists on the outside upright on the foundation that you nail all the other joists in to) when one ends and another begins?
What do you do about the varying widths of the floor joists? You line up the top of each joist with the to of the rim joists but what about the supports on the bottoms?
I noticed in the center wall of cinder blocks there are a couple of them that are turned. Is that to allow additional ventilation? I appreciate the videos!
I turned a few of them on their sides to allow me to run drain pipes through them.
What did it cost you in lumber for the joist+decking?
My thought on measuring the distance between joists would be to measure and cut one piece to the correct size and use that for laying them out...
Did you consider that, or is there a reason you used a measuring tape?
What would be the max. span (wall to wall) for a 2 by 12 soft wood ceiling joists (12 being vertical), that would not bend under snow or it's own weight? i'm looking for a direct approximate answer, i just don't get the online tables ?
I’d like to know too
the rim joists dont look overlapped are one single piece? i can not see how did u attach them
Did you use sill gasket?? I didn't see any.....good job, enjoyed this old school build, no pneumatic nail guns, how refreshing.
Interesting. I keep grabbing info from several channels.
Did you manually nailed everything?
How many standard blocks did you use for the foundation
What made you decide on 2 x 12 instead of having the truss company make an engineered floor truss or using an I joist? Also I never heard you say how far apart the columns were. I have plans for an 84' x 32' and was planning on running waste lines before I put on the sub floor any reason you didn't? Looks great so far and thanks for the info.
Knowing the floor dimensions are 32’x48’ I counted the columns and deduced the concrete block posts were 8’ apart. What I don’t understand is why the front sill plate was 2x12? None of the others were. ???
Will that be able to support tile floor.?
The first mistake you made regarding joist layout, was starting layout for your first joist at 16" on center. It should have been made at 15-1/4 inches and then, you should pulled the rest of the joist 16"on center from your first 15-1/4" layout from the rim/bond board. That 3/4 inch difference at the start, will allow the 4'x8' floor sheathing to land in the middle of the joist.
Rookie move brother!
You know damn well that you had to cut 3/4 of an inch, off of your first 4'x8' sheet of floor sheathing.
Awesome video! You working by yourself at that. Q: Are those joist 2x6 or 8? If didn't use the cement what size would the edge boards be?
They are 2x12s. It's hard to say what size the porch rim joist would be if it weren't over a continuous wall. You would still have to put up some columns and then calculate based off other the distance between the columns and the number of joists that land on the joists between the columns.
im curious sir, when you fastened the rim joists to the sill plate, did you only nail them in toenail method or did you also attach something like lag screws from underneath? overlapping gives me a question due to the 1.5 inch offset on one side, did you attach a nailer joist every 8 feet ? if not then how did you account for that with the subfloor sheets? i noticed you used both an impact driver(them things are fun!) and a hammer, what was the reason for the 2 different tools used?
that 1 1/2" offset through me also.
What size joists do you use?
keep on keeping on 👍
Hello, are you going to have aseptic tank ? a well ?
Why not put an end joist(sorry if wrong terminology) in the middle to cap off the floor joists and have them be lined up even on either half of the house? Instead of overlapping them and using block spacing?
are those 2x12 joists, and what are the spans? Just curious because i am at this point and have 12 ft spans, wondering if 2x10s will be sufficient.
+dan kane Yes mine are 2x12 and could span 20 ft with them being 16 inches on center. Here is a handy span calculator you may find useful.
www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc
Just curious, why no vapor barrier? And if you're going to put one wouldn't it have been easier prior to the floor joist going in?
Yes, I will be putting down a vapor barrier, but not until all the work under the house is complete (wiring, plumbing, and insulation). It would have been easier to put it down first, but with my rocky soil I didn't want to risk puncturing it while I was crawling around doing other work. So it will just go in last.
an inside drainage system would have been a lot easier.. you could just have thrown #57s on top of the dirt then called it a day. a vapor barrier will just trap condensation and grow mold brother.
B4ReaL 1 v
Nice DIY when you have a lot of time. BTW, shouldn't you cut the joist overlap? The excess can use for blocking.
It seams code says no more than 12 inches of overlap, but I wanted them doubled up to help strengthen that area. I will be putting through bolts in them to prevent cantalevering.
Which shed is better wood or metal?
Gorgeus
Looking good man can't wait for an update on the rest. What was the ball park cost on the cinder block for the main foundation?
+Drewnashleigh I was quoted 20,000 to have it done. But that was with 16" wide by 12" deep footers. I did it myself and used 16" x 16" and 22" x 16" footers for right at 12,000. And that is including all the equipment that I rented to remove the stumps, dig the footers, and a pump truck for the concrete. If I had to do it over though I would probably skip the forms and fast footer fabric and just pour directly into the ditches, which would bring it down to about 11,000.
Respect
Excellent videos!! and the music! can you tell me the artists!?? love country..gracias!
This would have been a perfect day to have a laborer
How strong is that floor?
I have always wondered why they don't use concrete beams and infill with concrete blocks rather than use wood for the foundation which will eventually get eaten by termites or just rot away?
What size is the floor plan?
Cool I point.the arrows wich way they run I thought I was missing something 😂 lol
What’s this type of foundation called?
I would have used Nudura ICF instead of block and I would have used Walltite from BASF on the foundation ground than pored a concrete foundation . But it is your house and it is a good build >
I like brick house because last for decades
There needs to be a water and termite barrier between the concrete and sill plates.
Just by seeing your video there was a lot of questions that I was wondering about that was answered
Glad the video was helpful James. Thanks for watching.
Funny thing is my father-in-law ex now! could not explain to me how to get the ledge that you're floor joist set on funny thing is he's a carpenter but seeing your video I Now understand that you had a header board laying flat on the peers then when you set your 2 by 8 or 10 whatever they were floor joist up that left a Ledge of about 2 inch on each side to put your floor joist on while you nail them in and it give it that support without having to use metal hangers at each one now according to him he cut a two by two and nailed it down the side of as floor joist and then cut out a 2 by 2 square on each floor joist to set in the groove which is kind of stupid after watching your video your setup you have is a much better deal than what he was explaining to me I'm fixing to lay up a floor so now I understand an easier way to do it
Just want to make sure you know that I did use metal hangers, they are in a later episode. The 2x2 he ripped down provides a lot more strength than the 2x12 I have laying flat. My purpose for that was to tie the columns together horizontaly, nor really for support of the joists. Although it did make a handy resting place while I nailed them off. But if you don't have that 2x2 attached securely to the side of your rim joist then I believe you're going to need to use metal hangers.
Sorry for the confusion on that, the way I did it is NOT conventional and any framer that looks at it will likely accuse me of being an idiot. Which may be true, but it's my house and it's done the way I want. If I did it over again I would do it the same way again. Anyway, best if luck on your project.
It looks really great, but to us newbies, it sure would be super if you could at least tell us what size boards of treated pine you are using for your task at hand! (I think they are all 2”x12”s, but just not real sure! If so, why’d you go with that, as opposed to 2”x8”s or 2”x10”s for the floor joists? You planning on letting the cattle roam in there, too? LOL). Thanks for sharing your work, Sir!
You really should just go ahead and and cut a good portion of the joists as they are the same size then cut a bunch of the blocking then preposition them and then start nailing. Much faster install this way. Lay the raw joists on a set of sawhorses and then clamp them together and the make on cut across the whole width to the correct length measurement then you just have to temp stage them and start nailing. Having a bud at this point is an advantage....
So true. The more efficient, the more affective!
I don't mean to be nosey but how much did the foundation job cost? Footing, rebar, labor exc. I'm debating on doing a crawl space or pier & beam foundation. I'd rather have a crawl space with but I'm not sure yet. I'm gone build a small 1200 square foot house.
A contractor quoted it for 21,000 and I doubled the size of the footer and did it myself. I think all the concrete and block cost me around 10 to 12 thousand.
@@ArkansasHomesteader yeah you definitely saved alot of money doing it yourself. Thanks for the reply
Obviously building without permits. No Building Inspector would pass that disaster!
what makes you say that?
How many floor joist ?
how many feet is it across
It's 48'7" × 32' not counting the 8' porch that goes all the way around.
I’ve been thinking about building me a “hunting cabin” what are your dimensions here?
Around how much you spend, i have 5 acres in florida and im looking to build my self
LACHY EL MULATIKO Florida is totally different with the building code this guy is doing we all sand here in fl so you gonna need dirt and pour a slab
I am into mine for about 100,000 at this point I think. I haven't totaled my receipts since episode 100. But like Valery said, location plays into that a lot. I am central AR, so we don't have hurricanes to contend with.
On the outer closest wall don't you have to put hangers on the outer Ren board since there is not a continously block wall under it and there are only pillars every 10 ft or so?
Absolutely! I think that is shown in one of the next few videos. I nailed all of the joists in place and then came back and installed hangers on all of them. It just took me more than one day to get it all done.
Arkansas Homesteader gotchya. Just making sure. Would hate to see them drop from just the shear strength of the nails. Your house is soooo awesome.
Thank you sir!
I was about to say, that one board on its side with the end nailing on the rim board is not going to do it..
Yes... The unsupported sill plate can not be used in a bearing capacity.. also the end nails for joists are not allowed to be use in bearing either per international building code. Hangers would be required.
Good stuff mate, no ant caps between your joists and piers though?
what is an ant cap?
@@brewsterly2927 i think that was called a termite shield when i was in school
What size lumber did you use for the foundarion?
The joists are all 2x12s. The rim joists are treated 2x12.
@@ArkansasHomesteader thanks sir...