Unsupported how? Simpson requires 2500psi concrete at a minimum to hold those anchor bolts. 4x4's shouldnt have more than 500lbs on them, and that bolt is rated for a max of 760 down load when supported by the nut alone.
@@GrimReaping Thanks for clarifying this, as I was unsure but didn't want to come across as an internet jerk. so, if I were to build something similar (but with more piers, 600 sq feet), would you recommend to do anything differently than he did? Thanks
Exactly This. Concrete costs $5 a bag, and you already had more than enough sonotube material. There was no reason not to just pour the concrete right up to the bottom of the joist level, or at least the bottom of the foundation beams. That would have eliminated the very weak point of this foundation, letting it all sit on those little pins, with 3 feet of prying leverage above them.
Allthread with postbase with hole in post base running allthread through 2(2x) or 4x and through bottom plate then level post with stop nuts and frame structure then install some hdu2 to wall framing
those anchor bolts made it really easy to adjust height but are they strong enough to have the entire weight of the house on? usually the weight is on the 4x4 or 6x6 directly to your pier, not its just on a 3/4" bolt.
Probably not. They're rated for a down load of 760 which I think is in lbs: ssttoolbox.widen.net/view/pdf/mwhmgauawo/C-C-2024_p075.pdf?t.download=true 12 posts at 760lb/post = 9120lbs. I'm considering these for a shed and deck but I'd never consider them for a house. Edit: This doesn't seem right though. There's no way the threads can only hold 760lb. It must be in kg or kN. I'll do some digging...unless someone else can beat me to it.
yea I was thinking the same thing. That the entire structure is being held up with 12 of those little retal rods basically. idk. seems sketch/under-engineered. hoping he can chime in
You’re the man dude. I just got into engineering after doing all my apartment repairs myself the past year and I’m so into getting more skilled and knowledgable. Your videos have been an awesome resource. I appreciate how you explain what each piece of hardware is for and how it works. Awesome dude! Keep it up
Can someone explain how the adjustable brackets sticking out of the piers work? It seems like the entire house is held up on top of these relatively skinny bolts! Are they just that strong? I guess I’m surprised that’s just as strong as the wood beam directly sitting (or sitting within a bracket directly) on top of the pier. Awesome video.
When you spin the nut, it pushes down on a washer, which pushes down on the concrete pier, lifting the load. The threads are only there to act on the nut, not the concrete. As a result: They have terrible uplift holding (IE: they can be pulled out), and since they have minimal cross-sectional area (a single bolt) that means they also have terrible side-loading (IE: they can be knocked over). I can't speak as to whether or not these shortcomings would be problematic for the build shown here, but I'm fairly confident this would not pass an inspection.
Very true, will not pass inspection but this tiny home is not permitted and will not need to be inspected. That's also true that due to lack of cross section they are not good laterally which is why I built the home like a table, all of the bracing laterally is up top and that way it's almost like setting a table down on the piers.
Thanks for the reply, really interesting. Why not just lay the beams directly on the piers? Was it to give yourself the ability to make leveling adjustments?
It looks extremely unstable, all that load on small anchor bolts. I don't see how that foundation stays in one piece and will most likely blow those piers out. Once the house is built, it can't be adjusted so any future sinking will still result in an unlevel foundation. They should have just built directly on the piers and at least made it stable. @@joshpit2003
I’m glad here in sc we don’t have to build a double floor!! I’m flabbergasted how you built a foundation grid then built an entire new grid for flooring on top the grid when really here in sc we use the og grid an use it as the beginnings of the floor joists system
Really glad to see the RUclips side of content/diy. I'm a new sub and went through all the old build videos and realized they were more breakdown than the way you're doing them now. I'm excited to see how this all turns out! My wife and I stayed at an Airbnb up by mt Baker a few weeks back. Had me looking at property. They had 40 acres available for just under 400k but it was zoned for logging. Seemed like a dream spot but not living there made it a little unrealistic of an investment. Now I can live through your videos :)
Hey! Thanks for all the encouragement. The old style videos are way easier to film but this is how I wanted to film the pacific bin videos since it's much more engaging. Hopefully in the future I can do another container build and do it this way!!
Ever get the feeling you are watching the start of something really great? Your channel has a big following but keep this up and you will be massive in no time!
15:07 Is it normal for the rimjoist to be off the beam like that when a 2x6 wall is going on it? I guess the joists take most of the load but why not have the rimjoist on top and flush with the beam? Learning as I go just wondering
@@devonloeropBolt include screw and nut. It got thread on it. So it is not the max load of the 3/4 diameter steel bar but of the thread. I just checked quickly on chatGPT, seems a grade 2 3/4 diameter bolt can hold 3500 lbs load on thread. 12 bolts hold 42000 lbs. Assuming the building is 500 square foot and dead load on the floor is 40 lbs per square foot, the total dead load is 20000 lbs, which seems OK. I am not sure how much margin should be left for dynamic load.
First let me say I'm amazed at your skills and what you are accomplishing! I'm learning a lot and will be applying on my land . But please do wear safety gear and esp you guys should wear metal tip shoes. Please take care and good luck. I am really appreciative of your videos! Thank you
Just found the channel and subbed after a few hours of watching your stuff! The content is bang on! Keep up the great builds and these entertaining vids!
I subbed to learn. It seems that you have a lot of knowledgeable people in the comments section and I need the information you are flushing out. Thanks for inadvertently making this community of knowledge.
what area was this in i only ask because I'm curious how difficult it was to get permits etc. im out in california and might do something like this on a property I own..
Holy shit! You pulled the bolt out of the concrete when you adjusted the height up! This house is a disaster waiting to happen. Hope you don't get any wind whatsoever in your area.
Only thing i would have done differently is to sheet under the framing first. By doing the underside first you just drop in your insulation from on top. By doing the top t&g plywood you now have to stuff insulation in from underneath the framing. Take my word for it that way sucks.
Typing this while taking a break stuffing insulation in my crawl space.... this sucks... never again hahaha. Definitely taking your suggestion moving forward.
@@devonloerop lol yeah, I've done the insulation job you are now doing. Not fun. But we all learn through experience. Your build is sure looking great from the videos I've seen so far.
@@FranciscoGonzalez-ro7ht I used OSB for the underside. I was an apprentice when I had that job so whatever the boss told me to use I used. But at the time OSB was cheaper than plywood and the underside doesn't really carry much of a load... It's basically sealing up the underside of the floor and holding the insulation in place. But before you use OSB I'd make sure your local building codes say OSB is allowed.
On the four foot marks I doubled the floor joist so my subfloor 4x8 did not share the 1 and 1/2 inch joist. You could marry a 2x4 to it also every 4ft just fyi. Before I put the subfloor on I usually face the underside and insulate. Spray for bug proofing and caulk to keep critters out.
I subbed, I’ll be building a home soon (I’m doing a pier set up too) I worked 2years doing pile driving for industrial complex’s and bridges I’m doing the same thing because it’s the best bang for your buck foundation solution no matter how you look at it 💯
If you use some beads of that Liquid Nails in between your sistered lumber they will be even stronger than if they were one piece of wood. No clamping required because your nails & screws act as clamps.
This is an amazing work, as someone grew up in the city and concrete jungles, I often dream of living in a forest. Then here I have some questions about the durability of the lumbers in modern days, would it be capable to handle the humidity, the hot and cold temperature and the destructive wood eating pests for two decades and not getting rotten.
Seriously? All that weight of the structure on some 3/4" threaded bolts? That's transferring a huge amount of weight onto a tiny area. I suspect it will crack your footings. I'd have an engineer check that out.
there are a lot of things that i find wrong in this build. the question is.... did you consult a professional or do any research before start building that deck?
@@GrimReaping for starters, the main one I noticed was the nailing. For nailing double beams, you should have about half the number of nails as your nominal value every 16”. In other words, a double 2x10 beam should have 5 nails (some codes have it as 4 nails, hence why I said “about half”) vertically every 16”. Looks like he just ran across punching a bunch of nails in, but not nearly enough and not in a particular pattern
@@parkermarsch646I'm trying to learn...you said for starters...are you basing your comments on his location? It's my understanding that each location has different requirements. He said he has been consulting with local builders. So far it looks pretty solid to me. He used 2x12 for the joists...my location only requires 2x6. The earthquakes here are so minimal they barely register. Yes we get high winds but I can count on one hand how many hurricanes we have gotten in 50 years. He went below the frost line. He used an auger for the pillars, set lasers for straightness. Doubled up in required areas. He staggered joints. He super braced and made sure it's up high in case of low flooding. Keeping in mind he may have edited some things out for time reasons...what did he miss?
I built it the the local codes. Each vertical 4x4 post can hold 13k lbs (some estimates even say upwards of 20k lbs but built in a big safety factor. so at 12 posts can hold 156k lbs and I did the rough math on how much my home will weigh and it's going to be right around 30k lbs. with 2 feet of snow on the home it weighs an additional 5k lbs. So i'm still in the stupid safe realm. Also, I am starting to insulate the sub floor right now. I didn't do it during framing because i was going to be running all the plumbing underneath and didn't want insulation to be in the way (also i wanted to be able to identify leaks easily if i messed up.
@@devonloerop If you haven't already, be sure to confirm that sq-ft exemption applies to habitable dwellings. In a lot of areas, it only applies to non-habitable structures like sheds.
Dude! This is great. What are the total dimensions of the building? I am in the process of framing a 12 x 24 building, definitely stealing some ideas for bracing. Nice work. Is the container home on the same property? What kind of permits did you have to get?
Great video series! I've been thinking about using pier and beam foundation but if you can believe it pouring a concrete slab foundation is cheaper in my area and I don't have to do any of the labor. With pier and beam you still have to buy insulation and flooring.
Wow if it's cheaper def go for it! You might want to consider using a footing and stem wall so you have a crawl space. It's nice for maintenance in future.
Like many viewers i have serious concerns regarding the use of the bolts and the unnecessary usage of blocking near the end of the joists because you capped them with the 2x12...i would have used a block at the end as a jig to space the joists. Use the braces at every 8 feet from the cap boards and that would most likely suffice for stabilizing the joists. But my biggest concerns is the usage of screws over nails. Screws break wheras nails bend so when that house starts settling, alot of the screws could snap off. Use blue glue nails and you will get the best of both worlds as they will bend when needed but never back out because of the glue. But I do like your video presentation.
I glued down each panel, so the plate is essentially one solid system. It's been working really really well. The glue would have to shear off to have any screws break.
I purchased 6 acres of mountain view land in the blue ridge mountains and just had the land cleared and soil work done. Now i'm deciding on what to build, I want to do most of it myself and am looking to do what you have done. Is there a way for me to get some consultation from you? I have a lot of renovation experience, I've purchased around 20 homes in my life and renovated them into rental homes but NEVER built something from scratch like this and have ALWAYS dreamed of doing so. I love your channel and am subscribed!
New subscriber here. Really diggin the content so far. My only critique, which may just be personal preference, but when you're doing your timelapses I think it would be preferred to just hear you talk on a voice over about the project or whatever. The background music makes it a little hard to watch at points. Just my two cents. Keep up the good work brother!
I have plans for the pacific bin on my website (www.thepacificbin.com) but I do plans to get these plans engineered once I finish the build and list them for sale. That way everyone can build their own cedar hallows and have tutorial videos on how to do it!
Shear strength of the bolt threads are 22k lbs per bolt and the compressive load of 4x4 wood post is 19k lbs as it's braces so wood will fail first but with 12 posts this system can handle 228k lbs at max and the homes weight will be just under 50k lbs so there's a safety factor of 4.56. These #'s are conservative too
@@joefish6546 there are a total of 37 12" piers bracing the posts in all directions. The home would essentially have break all of the braces and push over the deck, which is its own supported structure to bend the bolts. I was just under there yesterday checking as I insulated and it looked perfect. Even checked it with a laser level
is it legal there in the us if you resell the plans of the building? or the architect (intellectual property owner ) permitted you to sell the plans? just wondering because most of the country i know does not allowed it .. this is the f3rd video i watched from this youtube channel the building looks good btw.. nice videos
All that blocking should’ve been in the middle of the span where there’s nothing holding the joists. Blocking is used to transfer the weight from one joist to the surrounding joists.
I know what you're saying but these are 8' spans and 2x12x16's so needless to say it's overkill. I'd argue that it's better to do that way I did it can it creates more of a rigid system than having blocking offset from the beams
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97% of you still aren't subscribed 😑
We're too lazy and busy watching shorts.
Wasn’t me.
Just subbed. Loving your content. Great job mate.
@@NR-pn6mnI knew this day was coming 😅
Too bad so sad. Make better content and I’ll subscribe to it. For now I’ll just watch it while unsubbed
Any concerns with rusting of the anchors and how much weight can they withstand?
💯 %. Seem dangerous and will get loose and may pull out in strong winds. Probably. Atleast can't keep the house secure.
Wild seeing all of that sitting on a couple of us unsupported threaded bolts 😂.
That’s what I was thinking. Like it all looks robust above those little brackets. But everything is on those little brackets….
Unsupported how? Simpson requires 2500psi concrete at a minimum to hold those anchor bolts. 4x4's shouldnt have more than 500lbs on them, and that bolt is rated for a max of 760 down load when supported by the nut alone.
@@GrimReaping Thanks for clarifying this, as I was unsure but didn't want to come across as an internet jerk. so, if I were to build something similar (but with more piers, 600 sq feet), would you recommend to do anything differently than he did? Thanks
I agree, these are deck supports. NOT made for a full cabin.
Even on Simpson website they don't have lateral loads specified for these for the non threaded cast in place they do.
Run concrete posts 3 ft high. Use sill plates and rim joists
Exactly This.
Concrete costs $5 a bag, and you already had more than enough sonotube material. There was no reason not to just pour the concrete right up to the bottom of the joist level, or at least the bottom of the foundation beams. That would have eliminated the very weak point of this foundation, letting it all sit on those little pins, with 3 feet of prying leverage above them.
Allthread with postbase with hole in post base running allthread through 2(2x) or 4x and through bottom plate then level post with stop nuts and frame structure then install some hdu2 to wall framing
That’s going to be a lot of weight on those foundation bolts. I’d get an engineer to inspect that for you.
Agreed
those anchor bolts made it really easy to adjust height but are they strong enough to have the entire weight of the house on? usually the weight is on the 4x4 or 6x6 directly to your pier, not its just on a 3/4" bolt.
That's what I'm thinking, Simpson abu66z is what should've been used or the 4x4 version, these look like a waste of effort
Probably not. They're rated for a down load of 760 which I think is in lbs:
ssttoolbox.widen.net/view/pdf/mwhmgauawo/C-C-2024_p075.pdf?t.download=true
12 posts at 760lb/post = 9120lbs.
I'm considering these for a shed and deck but I'd never consider them for a house.
Edit: This doesn't seem right though. There's no way the threads can only hold 760lb. It must be in kg or kN. I'll do some digging...unless someone else can beat me to it.
My thoughts exactly. Seems like a lot of weight to sit on a small bolt. Granted it’s 12 bolts but still doesn’t seem too strong.
yea I was thinking the same thing. That the entire structure is being held up with 12 of those little retal rods basically. idk. seems sketch/under-engineered. hoping he can chime in
The bolt diameter is very concerning, along with size of footings , not sure that's the best way to do it.
The intricate planning always blows me away. So awesome to see this evolve from a spot in the forest to a home.
Ya! That definitely is key being a few steps ahead so I don't catch myself in a pinch. You should see what I wrapped up last night 😏
@@devonloerop this is a really bad/dangerous build.
Before laying the subfloor, staple in your insulation between the joists. Much easier than working from below later.
Eagerly watching this from the UK. Discovered your channel a few days ago
Thanks for following along! So awesome people from all over the world!
It was very satisfying to see you install the kickers and get that feeling of how your base is becoming totally rock solid. Nice job!
@3:53 - Can someone explain how that pier is moving up or down. Shouldn't the threaded rod be cemented into place, how is it moving up or down?
The concrete isn't bonded to the threads very well so it doesn't prevent spinning like a J bolt does.
You’re the man dude. I just got into engineering after doing all my apartment repairs myself the past year and I’m so into getting more skilled and knowledgable. Your videos have been an awesome resource. I appreciate how you explain what each piece of hardware is for and how it works. Awesome dude! Keep it up
Great job young man. Love the way you smile when you finish your job.❤
Can someone explain how the adjustable brackets sticking out of the piers work? It seems like the entire house is held up on top of these relatively skinny bolts! Are they just that strong? I guess I’m surprised that’s just as strong as the wood beam directly sitting (or sitting within a bracket directly) on top of the pier.
Awesome video.
When you spin the nut, it pushes down on a washer, which pushes down on the concrete pier, lifting the load. The threads are only there to act on the nut, not the concrete. As a result: They have terrible uplift holding (IE: they can be pulled out), and since they have minimal cross-sectional area (a single bolt) that means they also have terrible side-loading (IE: they can be knocked over). I can't speak as to whether or not these shortcomings would be problematic for the build shown here, but I'm fairly confident this would not pass an inspection.
Very true, will not pass inspection but this tiny home is not permitted and will not need to be inspected. That's also true that due to lack of cross section they are not good laterally which is why I built the home like a table, all of the bracing laterally is up top and that way it's almost like setting a table down on the piers.
Thanks for the reply, really interesting. Why not just lay the beams directly on the piers? Was it to give yourself the ability to make leveling adjustments?
It looks extremely unstable, all that load on small anchor bolts. I don't see how that foundation stays in one piece and will most likely blow those piers out. Once the house is built, it can't be adjusted so any future sinking will still result in an unlevel foundation. They should have just built directly on the piers and at least made it stable. @@joshpit2003
All that work to cheap out on the foundation like that.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for the upload. It feels so wholesome following along your journey. You’re doing an amazing job!
I appreciate it a ton! I'll do my best to film it all the way through
Awesome videos and the format feels very fresh to watch. Can't wait for more
More to come!
I’m glad here in sc we don’t have to build a double floor!! I’m flabbergasted how you built a foundation grid then built an entire new grid for flooring on top the grid when really here in sc we use the og grid an use it as the beginnings of the floor joists system
beams make it so you can level the home easier that way you level by using two control surfaces instead of 12
You dont have to do it that way. You can spec the correct size beams out and frame a box and hanger all the joists
Really glad to see the RUclips side of content/diy. I'm a new sub and went through all the old build videos and realized they were more breakdown than the way you're doing them now. I'm excited to see how this all turns out!
My wife and I stayed at an Airbnb up by mt Baker a few weeks back. Had me looking at property. They had 40 acres available for just under 400k but it was zoned for logging. Seemed like a dream spot but not living there made it a little unrealistic of an investment. Now I can live through your videos :)
Hey! Thanks for all the encouragement. The old style videos are way easier to film but this is how I wanted to film the pacific bin videos since it's much more engaging. Hopefully in the future I can do another container build and do it this way!!
With you raising up some of those bolts out of the cement, does it compromise the structural integrity at all?
Ever get the feeling you are watching the start of something really great? Your channel has a big following but keep this up and you will be massive in no time!
Haha thanks! Yeah I have some really cool plans for this home and bringing you all along is a priority!
Thank you for showing how much everything costs. A lot of creators make thumbnails with price in mind and then don't deliver. Appreciate your content.
Great videos! Giving me inspiration to rebuild my old camp lodge.
You're amazing my man - Such a joy to watch you build this and document it all for us to see! So inspiring!
Thanks!!🎉
Good video. Enjoying following along with the build.
Thanks 👍
15:07 Is it normal for the rimjoist to be off the beam like that when a 2x6 wall is going on it? I guess the joists take most of the load but why not have the rimjoist on top and flush with the beam? Learning as I go just wondering
Its shaping !! Really a joy to watch. And build to last its great attitude.
One step at a time :) thanks 😊
The weight of the whole building is supported by 12 screws, nuts/washers. Not a safe design. What is the max load each screw can take?
3/4" bolts* not screws lol. Look up the compressive load of 3/4" diameter steel
@@devonloeropBolt include screw and nut. It got thread on it. So it is not the max load of the 3/4 diameter steel bar but of the thread. I just checked quickly on chatGPT, seems a grade 2 3/4 diameter bolt can hold 3500 lbs load on thread. 12 bolts hold 42000 lbs. Assuming the building is 500 square foot and dead load on the floor is 40 lbs per square foot, the total dead load is 20000 lbs, which seems OK. I am not sure how much margin should be left for dynamic load.
@@hdm4825and what about lateral load from wind
Champagne season!
@@hdm4825 10%, they already add 90% safety to the bolts
How is 2 ft in the ground enough? Here in PA, you need to be 40-48 inches in the ground even for a deck.
frost line is what matters. here in Texas, we have no frost line so no required depth for piers
First let me say I'm amazed at your skills and what you are accomplishing! I'm learning a lot and will be applying on my land . But please do wear safety gear and esp you guys should wear metal tip shoes. Please take care and good luck. I am really appreciative of your videos! Thank you
Just found the channel and subbed after a few hours of watching your stuff! The content is bang on! Keep up the great builds and these entertaining vids!
Really appreciate this! Just wait until you see the video of me standing the walls by myself 😳
I subbed to learn. It seems that you have a lot of knowledgeable people in the comments section and I need the information you are flushing out. Thanks for inadvertently making this community of knowledge.
What size lumber did you use underneath the 2 x 12 joists?
2 x 10?
I thoroughly impressed with your work, you just have been saving up for a long time for these projects.
This one hasn't been nearly as financially tough as the pacific bin😅
what area was this in i only ask because I'm curious how difficult it was to get permits etc. im out in california and might do something like this on a property I own..
Have fun dealing with California. Here in rural Oklahoma we don't have to pull any permits.
Well done!! Loving every minute of catching up on your adventures!! Just stumbled across your channel and oh so happy I did!
Hey, I'm a new subscriber, just wishing you all the best in your endeavors and keep up the good work on your vids. I like what i see so far.
Holy shit! You pulled the bolt out of the concrete when you adjusted the height up! This house is a disaster waiting to happen. Hope you don't get any wind whatsoever in your area.
Excited to see another progress upload! Can't wait for the next one!
Let's me just say, standing walls alone was a little sketchy 😅
Love the outtakes haha
Only thing i would have done differently is to sheet under the framing first. By doing the underside first you just drop in your insulation from on top. By doing the top t&g plywood you now have to stuff insulation in from underneath the framing. Take my word for it that way sucks.
Typing this while taking a break stuffing insulation in my crawl space.... this sucks... never again hahaha. Definitely taking your suggestion moving forward.
@@devonloerop lol yeah, I've done the insulation job you are now doing. Not fun. But we all learn through experience. Your build is sure looking great from the videos I've seen so far.
What material would you use to sheet under the frame?
@@FranciscoGonzalez-ro7ht I used OSB for the underside. I was an apprentice when I had that job so whatever the boss told me to use I used. But at the time OSB was cheaper than plywood and the underside doesn't really carry much of a load... It's basically sealing up the underside of the floor and holding the insulation in place.
But before you use OSB I'd make sure your local building codes say OSB is allowed.
fwiw, slab foundations vs. pier: high winds and hurricanes can destroy homes no matter how the foundations are laid out.
hey great work, do you know what those adjustable floating anchor deals are rated for load? thanks!
On the four foot marks I doubled the floor joist so my subfloor 4x8 did not share the 1 and 1/2 inch joist. You could marry a 2x4 to it also every 4ft just fyi. Before I put the subfloor on I usually face the underside and insulate. Spray for bug proofing and caulk to keep critters out.
great job my guy!! I don't say that very often!
How come he didnt let the wood rest on the concrete footing instead of all the weight testing on the little metal things?
I subbed, I’ll be building a home soon (I’m doing a pier set up too) I worked 2years doing pile driving for industrial complex’s and bridges I’m doing the same thing because it’s the best bang for your buck foundation solution no matter how you look at it 💯
I’m just wondering why the concrete anchor isn’t sitting on the concrete.
Great job. The cost in red don't show up as well?
If you use some beads of that Liquid Nails in between your sistered lumber they will be even stronger than if they were one piece of wood. No clamping required because your nails & screws act as clamps.
locktite version of liquid nails works much better. Much stronger adhesion.
Great work and great craftsmanship 🙌. I am curious what your plan is with the rebar legs?
Great job looking forward for more information 😊
Great work, and walk through. Very informative. where can i find those adjustable post brackets? Of what the actual name of them if you don't mind?
This is an amazing work, as someone grew up in the city and concrete jungles, I often dream of living in a forest. Then here I have some questions about the durability of the lumbers in modern days, would it be capable to handle the humidity, the hot and cold temperature and the destructive wood eating pests for two decades and not getting rotten.
Seriously? All that weight of the structure on some 3/4" threaded bolts? That's transferring a huge amount of weight onto a tiny area. I suspect it will crack your footings. I'd have an engineer check that out.
That system is designed by a engineer.
My question is why he landed everything on those bolts when he could put it all the way to the top of the concrete...interesting
It's wild to think all that weight goes thru those anchor bolts!!!
there are a lot of things that i find wrong in this build. the question is.... did you consult a professional or do any research before start building that deck?
No need to
@@strjourneys7919That’s insane.
Why dont you say whats wrong with it instead of saying you found things that were wrong?
@@GrimReaping for starters, the main one I noticed was the nailing. For nailing double beams, you should have about half the number of nails as your nominal value every 16”. In other words, a double 2x10 beam should have 5 nails (some codes have it as 4 nails, hence why I said “about half”) vertically every 16”. Looks like he just ran across punching a bunch of nails in, but not nearly enough and not in a particular pattern
@@parkermarsch646I'm trying to learn...you said for starters...are you basing your comments on his location? It's my understanding that each location has different requirements. He said he has been consulting with local builders. So far it looks pretty solid to me. He used 2x12 for the joists...my location only requires 2x6. The earthquakes here are so minimal they barely register. Yes we get high winds but I can count on one hand how many hurricanes we have gotten in 50 years.
He went below the frost line.
He used an auger for the pillars, set lasers for straightness.
Doubled up in required areas.
He staggered joints.
He super braced and made sure it's up high in case of low flooding.
Keeping in mind he may have edited some things out for time reasons...what did he miss?
What did you do for plumbing?
As always, nicely done!
Are you selling the plans for the tiny house? Do you have materials list?
Thank again!
Will all be in the price breakdown video!
How do you solve the problem of slope relative to the concrete tubes?
I subscribed, what was the dimension of the 2x materials you used for the pier joists?
also you did not use pressure treated for your pier joists, would you do the same again?
last question, what size were your floor joists? I am going to make a purchase next week... thanks again!
12"
What's the deal with assuming it will settle? Isn't that what foundation codes are for?
Finally a new video!!!
Sorry! They take a bit to film and edit 😊
Hello, how did you insulate the subfloor?
From the crawlspace :( very slowly
Yes, @@devonloerop
love the project, its coming along nicely,
Thanks!
Two questions: 1) Do you have to calculate for snow load in Washington? and 2) Are you using any particular building code guidelines?
Actually, one more question..... 3) Why didn't you insulate the floor?
I know some studies have been conducted to the idea that cold air drops so no real benefit from floor insulation other than protecting plumbing
I built it the the local codes. Each vertical 4x4 post can hold 13k lbs (some estimates even say upwards of 20k lbs but built in a big safety factor. so at 12 posts can hold 156k lbs and I did the rough math on how much my home will weigh and it's going to be right around 30k lbs. with 2 feet of snow on the home it weighs an additional 5k lbs. So i'm still in the stupid safe realm. Also, I am starting to insulate the sub floor right now. I didn't do it during framing because i was going to be running all the plumbing underneath and didn't want insulation to be in the way (also i wanted to be able to identify leaks easily if i messed up.
sub floors of exposed crawlspaces are required to be insulated.
Not to pick, but when you build beams or headers, put plywood between to stiffen against the grain of the natural wood
Did you have to work with permits and building inspectors? Really impressive structure, BTW I love this build!
Ring shank nails for decking 👍
How did you figure out the layout on the ground? Did you have to get it stamped or approved or any permits etc?
Since it's under 400sf I didn't need permit
@@devonloerop If you haven't already, be sure to confirm that sq-ft exemption applies to habitable dwellings. In a lot of areas, it only applies to non-habitable structures like sheds.
Sometimes I sit here in awe of the things some people can do.
What software are you using for your floor plans and 3d models?
hey nice work. looks so fun. love building too. how did your corner to corner measure out? lol hope it was perfect.
I gotta be honest. It was off by 1/4" 😂
noice
@@devonloerop so how were you able to correct that? I was wondering the same thing while watching. Love the vids !!
@@justindiiorio5979It's a quarter inch...🤷 Lol. I imagine there was no correcting needed.
Dude! This is great. What are the total dimensions of the building? I am in the process of framing a 12 x 24 building, definitely stealing some ideas for bracing. Nice work. Is the container home on the same property? What kind of permits did you have to get?
Great video series! I've been thinking about using pier and beam foundation but if you can believe it pouring a concrete slab foundation is cheaper in my area and I don't have to do any of the labor. With pier and beam you still have to buy insulation and flooring.
Wow if it's cheaper def go for it! You might want to consider using a footing and stem wall so you have a crawl space. It's nice for maintenance in future.
How do you do all this alone?
You’re saying that’s not going anywhere. But are you slapping the wood while saying it?
??
@@devonloerop oh, silly internet construction DIY meme inside joke thing… corny if you ask me ;) keep up your solid work, leave out the corn ✌🏽
@@tysonmarley hahaha alrighty then! Appreciate it
@@devonloeroplook it up it’s a funny meme lol
Like many viewers i have serious concerns regarding the use of the bolts and the unnecessary usage of blocking near the end of the joists because you capped them with the 2x12...i would have used a block at the end as a jig to space the joists. Use the braces at every 8 feet from the cap boards and that would most likely suffice for stabilizing the joists. But my biggest concerns is the usage of screws over nails. Screws break wheras nails bend so when that house starts settling, alot of the screws could snap off. Use blue glue nails and you will get the best of both worlds as they will bend when needed but never back out because of the glue. But I do like your video presentation.
I glued down each panel, so the plate is essentially one solid system. It's been working really really well. The glue would have to shear off to have any screws break.
I purchased 6 acres of mountain view land in the blue ridge mountains and just had the land cleared and soil work done. Now i'm deciding on what to build, I want to do most of it myself and am looking to do what you have done. Is there a way for me to get some consultation from you? I have a lot of renovation experience, I've purchased around 20 homes in my life and renovated them into rental homes but NEVER built something from scratch like this and have ALWAYS dreamed of doing so. I love your channel and am subscribed!
Bro Outstanding video
No floor insulation?
Could you have just mounted the beams directly atop the anchors, without the vertical posts?
Why no floor insulation??
Nice work
No floor insulation??
Great vid!
what's the name of the lizer machine
look at that, levels and lasers , oh my!! hahahaha
Haha that my kinda place! Lol
You could eliminate the blocking on the outside as your rim joist would have accomplished the same thing. All in all a great job.
New subscriber here. Really diggin the content so far. My only critique, which may just be personal preference, but when you're doing your timelapses I think it would be preferred to just hear you talk on a voice over about the project or whatever. The background music makes it a little hard to watch at points. Just my two cents. Keep up the good work brother!
No insulation in the floor? 🤔
I gotta wrap up plumbing and electrical first!
what's the size of the house ?
400sf
Thx for sharing
Love it
Do you have plans for sale?
I have plans for the pacific bin on my website (www.thepacificbin.com) but I do plans to get these plans engineered once I finish the build and list them for sale. That way everyone can build their own cedar hallows and have tutorial videos on how to do it!
Rebar ?
Love it!
we just stayed at the bin a month ago and you’re going to make us come back 😅😅
Hahaha it's going to be pretty cool! Thanks for support me, the bin and the cedar hallow! 😊🎉
Strange if think of it . The entire structure is resting on 12 what 1 inch diameter metal pins.those seem more like building a deck materials.
Shear strength of the bolt threads are 22k lbs per bolt and the compressive load of 4x4 wood post is 19k lbs as it's braces so wood will fail first but with 12 posts this system can handle 228k lbs at max and the homes weight will be just under 50k lbs so there's a safety factor of 4.56. These #'s are conservative too
Why won't the structure bend the rods? Vertical shear strength presumably assumes forces straight down.
@@joefish6546 there are a total of 37 12" piers bracing the posts in all directions. The home would essentially have break all of the braces and push over the deck, which is its own supported structure to bend the bolts. I was just under there yesterday checking as I insulated and it looked perfect. Even checked it with a laser level
is it legal there in the us if you resell the plans of the building? or the architect (intellectual property owner ) permitted you to sell the plans? just wondering because
most of the country i know does not allowed it .. this is the f3rd video i watched from this youtube channel the building looks good btw.. nice videos
All that blocking should’ve been in the middle of the span where there’s nothing holding the joists. Blocking is used to transfer the weight from one joist to the surrounding joists.
I know what you're saying but these are 8' spans and 2x12x16's so needless to say it's overkill. I'd argue that it's better to do that way I did it can it creates more of a rigid system than having blocking offset from the beams