The reason these gears break is the Nissan flat drive engagement which puts pressure on two very small points. Billet gears alone does not resolve the issue. We have carried out our own R&D and have on offer a range of replacement spline drive kits for various RB oil pumps including OEM,N1,Nismo and aftermarket i.e. Jun, Nitto Greddy and Tomei. Our kits are used on various high power RB engines and cars globally. Good luck with the build the billet gears are an improvement over stock.
Wow...was wondering what happened to you but seeing the better quality and editing I can see you've been working hard. awesome to see you post. Great job.
There are actually several issues that can also combine to cause the oil pump gear to shatter. As Supertec Racing said is correct, and to add to that, the early rb26 crank had a small drive area from the crank, which resulted in uneven wear and thus causing fractures, resulting in then a shattered pump, the other, which is ALWAYS overlooked, is the failure of the harmonic balancer to absorb unnecessary vibration from the rotating assembly. I always recommend running a new oem/Ross/Ati balancer when fitting the new oil pump, and since, have not had a single failure in 10 years.
Supertec spline drive kits eliminate the risk of pump drive failure for high horsepower application. Rather than having two "flats" to drive the pump, a spline collar is tight fitted to the crank to drive a converted pump gear.
Good video. One quick correction on your statement. Fluid does not compress. If you get water in your cylinder, the piston cannot compress it and that's how you bend connecting rods. So the way it actually works. At 6:49 you can see the channel in front of the gear. The oil is forced to that channel when the chamber is closing and that is what creates the oil pressure.
its also a really good idea to use locktight on the 7 screws. nissan oil pumps screws tend to come loose. i noticed mine was half unscrewed when i replaced mine. engine had not been opened before. i was very lucky.
love ur work but i hate to tell u the biggest problem with the pumps is the play between the driving gear and the crank.at hi rpm the gear starts to vibrate witch in turn shatters the gears.I have seen even after markets pumps and gears shattered because the real issue of the play bettween the crank and gears where not fixed. There is a clearance of .006 iether side of the gear/crank a total of .012 witch is to much. When im building RB26/28 engines i use crank collars that have a total of .006 clearance ie .003 iether side of crank and collar with standard 34 pumps and have had no issue with any of my engiens/pumps failing
How do you find one with tighter tolerances? Is it more of a purchase and pray types of situations? Why dont oil pump producers make small inner driving gears?
I believe the bolt pattern for the housing to bolt onto the block is the same across 20/25/26s. The difference comes with the internal design. If you look at a Tomei oil pump the housing which the actual gears sit in is much larger then mine. I believe the 25 internals of the oil pump are different again to the 26. So as to which one is better I would say the N1 pump is best and also the Tomei. But it comes down to money. I think just replacing the gears to something like the ones I have will be great for street/track and you'll never think twice about them breaking. If you were going hardcore track ect. I would suggest looking into it more and coughing up extra cash.
I've read that the nose of the crank on the 1989 to 1991 RB26DETT is too small. The clearance between the nose of the crank and the part that drives the oil pump inner gear was too loose. This causes the crank to hammer against the pump drive gear which shatters it. Apparently the only proper fix is to change the damn crank :( EDIT: Michael's response speaks of a different solution :)
not true. you can shrink fit a spline drive crank collar to the short nosed r32 crank. allso the 33 and 34. the spline drive then drives new spline drive gears in the oil pump. this is the ultimate solution to this issue. i went with std r33 crank and reimax oil pump gears. much like the one's he is useing. i allso used thread lock on the bolts inside the pump.
JohnnyNismo look at supertech's reply in here. they have a very good solution for this. what I described. unfortunately the crank has to come out. I would have gone that route if I knew before I bought the reimax billet gears.
stevenminix Nope you should get an oil head drain kit. And also get the oil gallery restrictors that go into the block. One will be a complete blank and the other is either 1.2mm or 1.5 from memory. The oil restrictors are very important. The head drain not as much but if the motor is out I'd do it all
stevenminix I think you'll be A ok so long as you service and change oil frequently. Is it a street car? The oiling problems occur with constant high rpms so as long as it's not a dedicated race car I think you'll be fine with those mods
Nice vid, wish you would have done a side-by-side comparison of the factory gear on the crank vs the aftermarket gear. It looks like there's a lot of play with that aftermarket gear! Also, wouldn't you want to use some threadlocker on the oil pump back plate housing bolts? EDIT> Also, some people replace the Phillips head screws with allen key'd screws for that back plate to prevent rounding the heads!
I did check it myself but this was after I recorded the video. The amount of play is near the same as the gears I removed. You have brought up a good point and I will deem to look into it. And as for the thread lock you can use that by all means. I just got em real tight with the impact driver.
You are actually wrong about that. The RB26 came from factory with 2 oil galleries to the head. One of those had already been blocked off. This one is between cylinders 4 and 5. The other oil feed has a 2mm hole. I have put a 1.5mm plug over the top of that. All the other RB's have both oil feed holes open. This video doesn't solve the oiling problem to the RB engines. It's ONLY for the oil pump gears. Besides I am not racing this motor. If I was going to rev it hard I would also add an oil head drain kit to it. The oil restriction mod I have done will be enough for my engine! You are right but, more oil to the rb head means less to the bearings which is very bad, but not in my engine :)
Do you realise that the bottom end gets oil starved because of restrictive flow from the head? Upgrading the oil pump makes this worse. How am I wrong about that?
Besides the oil pump is upgraded not to increase flow, it's to stop the gears from breaking. Just because of the wave profile doesn't mean it's gonna flow 10x more.
The smaller restrictor placed to prevent oil accumulating in the head was a misconception perpetuated by Tomei when they released their upgraded oil pump. Nissan never utilized a "head drain" nor employed a restrictor in the oil galleries for any of their competition vehicles. Many people have documented on forums where they have closely inspected Nissan race cars, particularly those used for the Bathurst, and not found head drains as well as being told that restrictors had not been used in the oil galleries.
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The reason these gears break is the Nissan flat drive engagement which puts pressure on two very small points. Billet gears alone does not resolve the issue. We have carried out our own R&D and have on offer a range of replacement spline drive kits for various RB oil pumps including OEM,N1,Nismo and aftermarket i.e. Jun, Nitto Greddy and Tomei. Our kits are used on various high power RB engines and cars globally. Good luck with the build the billet gears are an improvement over stock.
Supertec Racing i want to purchase a spline drive For my nitto pump. How can I do so if your website doesnt allow purchases?
I'm not a mechanic..but I love learning from u bro
Wow...was wondering what happened to you but seeing the better quality and editing I can see you've been working hard. awesome to see you post. Great job.
another good thing to do is put Loctite on the bolts. People have seen those bolts get loose in time
This would be more important for those who don't have an impact driver.
over tightening them isnt the solution
040mobil I have since put loctite on the bolts ⚡️
Cheers :-)
Loving the recent improvement in video quality. Keep it up mate.
Thanks man, have bought a Canon 70D, external mic and new editing software. Glad someone noticed it :)
Great info man! Thank you for the video how to!
Haha, nice..thought of you right away when I seen this vid!
Yeah pull that oil pump back apart, clean and LOCTITE those threads little homie. You have no idea what you are doing but good effort!
There are actually several issues that can also combine to cause the oil pump gear to shatter.
As Supertec Racing said is correct, and to add to that, the early rb26 crank had a small drive area from the crank, which resulted in uneven wear and thus causing fractures, resulting in then a shattered pump, the other, which is ALWAYS overlooked, is the failure of the harmonic balancer to absorb unnecessary vibration from the rotating assembly. I always recommend running a new oem/Ross/Ati balancer when fitting the new oil pump, and since, have not had a single failure in 10 years.
Such an awesome video - you're the man!!!
kman5711 Thanks man I'm glad you enjoy it. Next is front joints and then we're building the RB26 :)
Supertec spline drive kits eliminate the risk of pump drive failure for high horsepower application. Rather than having two "flats" to drive the pump, a spline collar is tight fitted to the crank to drive a converted pump gear.
Good video. One quick correction on your statement. Fluid does not compress. If you get water in your cylinder, the piston cannot compress it and that's how you bend connecting rods. So the way it actually works. At 6:49 you can see the channel in front of the gear. The oil is forced to that channel when the chamber is closing and that is what creates the oil pressure.
its also a really good idea to use locktight on the 7 screws. nissan oil pumps screws tend to come loose. i noticed mine was half unscrewed when i replaced mine. engine had not been opened before. i was very lucky.
plasticbag11 I think I will take them out and put lock tight on them
Question mate , no gasket maker or seal for the back plate ?
Awesome video man! Did you change your camera by any chance? Things are looking dfferent, good different!
these videos are so interesting, please keep on going. great content and your video quality did indeed improve :3
Great vid, where did you buy these gears? Thanks.
love ur work but i hate to tell u the biggest problem with the pumps is the play between the driving gear and the crank.at hi rpm the gear starts to vibrate witch in turn shatters the gears.I have seen even after markets pumps and gears shattered because the real issue of the play bettween the crank and gears where not fixed. There is a clearance of .006 iether side of the gear/crank a total of
.012 witch is to much. When im building RB26/28 engines i use crank collars that have a total of .006 clearance ie .003 iether side of crank and collar with standard 34 pumps and have had no issue with any of my engiens/pumps failing
i'm a little more anal then you, LOL, i'm at .004, TOTAL.
How do you find one with tighter tolerances? Is it more of a purchase and pray types of situations? Why dont oil pump producers make small inner driving gears?
Does the pump still rotate by hand by moving the inner drive by hand when the back cover is on?
why did you put oil in the thread holes on the oil pump and also why did you use oil should of put some grease in the pump and gears
are the 25 26 and 30 pumps the same?
Lmao at the fairies fart comment. Best one ive heard this week! Great video
Do you know if the oil pump is the same for the rb 20/25/26 as in can i drop these replacement gears into an rb20?
I believe the bolt pattern for the housing to bolt onto the block is the same across 20/25/26s. The difference comes with the internal design. If you look at a Tomei oil pump the housing which the actual gears sit in is much larger then mine. I believe the 25 internals of the oil pump are different again to the 26. So as to which one is better I would say the N1 pump is best and also the Tomei. But it comes down to money. I think just replacing the gears to something like the ones I have will be great for street/track and you'll never think twice about them breaking. If you were going hardcore track ect. I would suggest looking into it more and coughing up extra cash.
25 neo and 26 are the same and both use the n1 pump the others use a shitty pump thats worse than this one
Should look into buying assembly grease and using that for the gears and packing the pump opposed to oil. Also, use locktite on the screws not oil
Ethan Lowe yeah oil can crack the metal
yo bro love the channel! helped me a lot!!! is a RB30 oilpump the same as 25 and 26 gear wise ect.?
I've read that the nose of the crank on the 1989 to 1991 RB26DETT is too small. The clearance between the nose of the crank and the part that drives the oil pump inner gear was too loose. This causes the crank to hammer against the pump drive gear which shatters it. Apparently the only proper fix is to change the damn crank :( EDIT: Michael's response speaks of a different solution :)
not true. you can shrink fit a spline drive crank collar to the short nosed r32 crank. allso the 33 and 34. the spline drive then drives new spline drive gears in the oil pump. this is the ultimate solution to this issue. i went with std r33 crank and reimax oil pump gears. much like the one's he is useing.
i allso used thread lock on the bolts inside the pump.
Thanks for this info! I'll ask my shop about this option.
JohnnyNismo look at supertech's reply in here. they have a very good solution for this. what I described. unfortunately the crank has to come out. I would have gone that route if I knew before I bought the reimax billet gears.
Michael yes I found Supertech a couple of days ago. They're the best solution given the money and situation.
Is this the only oiling modification I should do to my RB26 to take care of oiling issues?
stevenminix Nope you should get an oil head drain kit. And also get the oil gallery restrictors that go into the block. One will be a complete blank and the other is either 1.2mm or 1.5 from memory. The oil restrictors are very important. The head drain not as much but if the motor is out I'd do it all
Backyard Mechanic so if i get oil head drain kit, tomei 1.5 restrictors, and these billet gears I should be fine right?
stevenminix I think you'll be A ok so long as you service and change oil frequently. Is it a street car? The oiling problems occur with constant high rpms so as long as it's not a dedicated race car I think you'll be fine with those mods
What brand billet gears did you buy?
Andrew McQuaide High Speed Engineering locally made in Malaga Perth, WA
Nice vid, wish you would have done a side-by-side comparison of the factory gear on the crank vs the aftermarket gear. It looks like there's a lot of play with that aftermarket gear! Also, wouldn't you want to use some threadlocker on the oil pump back plate housing bolts? EDIT> Also, some people replace the Phillips head screws with allen key'd screws for that back plate to prevent rounding the heads!
I did check it myself but this was after I recorded the video. The amount of play is near the same as the gears I removed. You have brought up a good point and I will deem to look into it. And as for the thread lock you can use that by all means. I just got em real tight with the impact driver.
Hey man, where did you get those pump gears? I want some for my GTR
NSGTR I got them from a local company here in Perth. They are called High Speed Engineering in Malaga Perth, WA :)
do not oil the screw holes, use thread locker
more flow means more oil in your head, which means less oil for your bearings. Bad job.
You are actually wrong about that. The RB26 came from factory with 2 oil galleries to the head. One of those had already been blocked off. This one is between cylinders 4 and 5. The other oil feed has a 2mm hole. I have put a 1.5mm plug over the top of that. All the other RB's have both oil feed holes open. This video doesn't solve the oiling problem to the RB engines. It's ONLY for the oil pump gears. Besides I am not racing this motor. If I was going to rev it hard I would also add an oil head drain kit to it. The oil restriction mod I have done will be enough for my engine! You are right but, more oil to the rb head means less to the bearings which is very bad, but not in my engine :)
Do you realise that the bottom end gets oil starved because of restrictive flow from the head? Upgrading the oil pump makes this worse. How am I wrong about that?
That's why you plug or 'restrict' the flow to the head in the first place. Which is what I did......
Besides the oil pump is upgraded not to increase flow, it's to stop the gears from breaking. Just because of the wave profile doesn't mean it's gonna flow 10x more.
The smaller restrictor placed to prevent oil accumulating in the head was a misconception perpetuated by Tomei when they released their upgraded oil pump. Nissan never utilized a "head drain" nor employed a restrictor in the oil galleries for any of their competition vehicles. Many people have documented on forums where they have closely inspected Nissan race cars, particularly those used for the Bathurst, and not found head drains as well as being told that restrictors had not been used in the oil galleries.