Good video man. Im currently in the midst of building a budget 400hp RB30/25 for myself and ive been doing weeks of research on the oil pump dilemma. Everything youve said is exactly much what ive found during my own research. Im glad you mentioned the 6 thou clearance, because a lot of people dont even realise its a thing. Another thing to look out for is the centering of the pump to the crankshaft, especially if youve had the thing line bored for main studs. For my use (street car), im leaning towards stock Rb25 pump with billet gears and a nitto snout. New OE dampener, not send it past 7k, probably going to keep stock restrictors as i wont be spending any considerable time up in the revs. Hopefully should be a good combo.
Yeh nail on the head mate super imported to ensure its centered about the crank. Its hard with RB pumps because the cover is on the back of the pump. For things like LS’s this is easy as the cover is on the front so you can install the pump housing and gears and use shims to centre it correctly! Sounds like a good combo, it youre keeping stock RB30 rods the caps start to get unhappy up around 7500rpm anyway.
@@BoostGumps Oi dude. question about the billet gears. Which brands have you found to be the most consistent in regards to sizing? Ive just had my nitto collar fitted to my 30 crank with a 2.5tho interference fit. Not sure what gears to go lol
Well said and good decision with the crank. At the end of the day you'll do your best work and if something was to happen it can't be on your shoulders it's just one of those things with the drift life.
From what I've seen on RB;s dry sump is the best thing to do costs are high yes but you've got your oiling issues sorted which protects the rest of the engine no oil no vroom vroom
GUNT HEAD i agree. We have opted for a new powerbond 25% underdrive balancer instead. Not quite as good as ATI but still much better than oem, budget friendly and should save the factory power steering pump on track.
Damn that sucks. I got my harmonic crank pully , N1 oil pump and billet gear for my rb20 to avoid doind rhe crank collar. I hope i didnt just waste my money
There’s so many options to solve the rb25det oil issue. Can you please recommend what I should go with if I just want to push 400hp for street/daily? Thank you much appreciated
You don't have to strip it all down to get the crank collar done. Drop the sump Turn it upside down and remove big end and main caps remove the crank get it done put it back in fit big ends and main caps and sump. A job that ALOT of mechanics charge over 3k for (remove engine and crank) can be done for half that. I have removed the crank and had it machined and balanced had crank collar fitted and replaced big end and main bearings WITHOUT removing the engine from the car.
I did this particular one without pulling the engine down if you care to watch. I did exactly that, pulled the crank with head on and left rods pistons in the block. Its a huge risk though, particularly on my part considering I didn’t originally build the engine. Its impossible to properly check clearances this way so I am 100% relying on the fact that whoever had built it didn’t just slap it together, because once I have pulled the crank Im now liable for that. I will never do another one this way, i will always pull it down and do it properly where everything can be blueprinted on re-assembly. It’s the only way to know for sure.
Turbo yeh its fairly common, some brands are better than others. They are ultimately designed to be used in conjunction with the extended snouts offered by other manufacturers though
Those billet gears will more than likely fail as the n1 pump is designed to be used with the wider surface of the snout replacement drive and no you don’t have to rev the shit out of an rb engine to have a set of gears to fail your better off to use the new sine drive that Nitto supply simalar to 2jz set up and the original gears crack on the heal of the drive and there not designed to be tight clearance due to bad harmonics in the soft rb crank. So pull the bloody thing out it is cheaper than building a new engine and it won’t be a problem if you pull it out so just do it
lol, I replied should've got Nitto...only to see 15 seconds later you had Nitto. 😂🤣 Is that a long or short nose crank? Seems weird that the oil gears are so far off with so much play. 🤔🤷 Man, this is crazy, never seen that before with Nitto gears. 😬 Added edit: Maybe add the Nitto sine drive?
The oil pump gears don’t just magically bounce around on the crank at high rpm it’s you bash the thing on limiter they bounce.. pretty simple keep it off limiter and control your right foot and you are laughing and that clearance is normally for all those shitty after market gears.. go stock and learn to drive job done!
chris Mark incorrect. They also hammer due to harmonics. An unavoidable issue with I6. Regardless, in a drift situation you are always on/off throttle. Particularly in chase. There is always potential for hammering and walking of the gears. This is the best way to minimise the risk
Honestly brutal VLT I am old as fuck ey, don’t get me wrong I smashed my stock pump and still am it’s just a lot less with a glide behind it.. never really bashed 1st as a manual 3rd gear got it all day.. maybe my pumps a freak but I’m at 45,000klm since boost over 340kw.. and that’s on a pump that had probably 300,000klm on it
@@cwhaaatt the RB pumps are hit or miss mate, and I don't mind a bit of limiter just for shits and giggles aswell, so better to be safe then sorry in my case, and also I don't have a misses telling me I'm spending top munch money on my car lol
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Good video man. Im currently in the midst of building a budget 400hp RB30/25 for myself and ive been doing weeks of research on the oil pump dilemma. Everything youve said is exactly much what ive found during my own research. Im glad you mentioned the 6 thou clearance, because a lot of people dont even realise its a thing. Another thing to look out for is the centering of the pump to the crankshaft, especially if youve had the thing line bored for main studs.
For my use (street car), im leaning towards stock Rb25 pump with billet gears and a nitto snout. New OE dampener, not send it past 7k, probably going to keep stock restrictors as i wont be spending any considerable time up in the revs. Hopefully should be a good combo.
Yeh nail on the head mate super imported to ensure its centered about the crank. Its hard with RB pumps because the cover is on the back of the pump. For things like LS’s this is easy as the cover is on the front so you can install the pump housing and gears and use shims to centre it correctly!
Sounds like a good combo, it youre keeping stock RB30 rods the caps start to get unhappy up around 7500rpm anyway.
@@BoostGumps yea full stock rb30 rotating assembly. just new oe rings, toilet brush hone and acl bearings lol.
@@BoostGumps Oi dude. question about the billet gears. Which brands have you found to be the most consistent in regards to sizing? Ive just had my nitto collar fitted to my 30 crank with a 2.5tho interference fit. Not sure what gears to go lol
Love the RB content!!
This problem for all oil pumps rb25 ?? Olso rb25neo turbo??
Probably the best decision, yeah, seeing the amount of play with the billet gears - which, by the way, that's kind of crazy... 😅
Damn I love RB content so much 😇
So long story short Zac Baldy touch my car and now it's cursed 😂
Bradley Palma basically... yeh 🤣
Well said and good decision with the crank. At the end of the day you'll do your best work and if something was to happen it can't be on your shoulders it's just one of those things with the drift life.
From what I've seen on RB;s dry sump is the best thing to do costs are high yes but you've got your oiling issues sorted which protects the rest of the engine no oil no vroom vroom
Michael Gleeson honestly dry sump is best for almost all situations in any engine. Just a pain it’s so damn expensive 🤣
Nice video just wondering does the rb30et have the same issues with filling head with oil ?
Wow! Thanks for the education!
That in conjunction with a ATI harmonic balancer and long nose crank would be the best thing apart from dry sump
GUNT HEAD i agree. We have opted for a new powerbond 25% underdrive balancer instead. Not quite as good as ATI but still much better than oem, budget friendly and should save the factory power steering pump on track.
Damn that sucks. I got my harmonic crank pully , N1 oil pump and billet gear for my rb20 to avoid doind rhe crank collar. I hope i didnt just waste my money
There’s so many options to solve the rb25det oil issue. Can you please recommend what I should go with if I just want to push 400hp for street/daily? Thank you much appreciated
You don't have to strip it all down to get the crank collar done.
Drop the sump
Turn it upside down and remove big end and main caps remove the crank get it done put it back in fit big ends and main caps and sump.
A job that ALOT of mechanics charge over 3k for (remove engine and crank) can be done for half that. I have removed the crank and had it machined and balanced had crank collar fitted and replaced big end and main bearings WITHOUT removing the engine from the car.
I did this particular one without pulling the engine down if you care to watch. I did exactly that, pulled the crank with head on and left rods pistons in the block. Its a huge risk though, particularly on my part considering I didn’t originally build the engine. Its impossible to properly check clearances this way so I am 100% relying on the fact that whoever had built it didn’t just slap it together, because once I have pulled the crank Im now liable for that.
I will never do another one this way, i will always pull it down and do it properly where everything can be blueprinted on re-assembly. It’s the only way to know for sure.
Any idea if the Neo's have the same issues with engagement? Ive heard the Neo oil pumps were different to the s1/s2 rb25s?
I wouldnt be able to tell you sorry mate! I still to this day havent pulled down a neo, I have had very little to do with them personally.
Where can I get the upgraded oil pan?
Aeroflow
If l have rb25det neo should l change rebuilding oil pumps,,or keep it stock for 400hp no problem???
?????
What did you end up doing
Why are the gears so loose? Is it common ?
Turbo yeh its fairly common, some brands are better than others. They are ultimately designed to be used in conjunction with the extended snouts offered by other manufacturers though
@@BoostGumps ohh yeah i see. I been lucky. I got stock 25 pump and i rev my r33 to 8200 rpm. Still going strong 2 yrs later . Full forged rb25
Turbo yeww!! Haha fingers crossed she keeps on going!
Time will come lol :/ . But then it will be 26/30 combo time. Then i can use my gt4202 full limits 🤤🤤 . Happy with how it is now :) makes enough
Turbo sounds like a wild setup!! You never know, some people never have an issue 🤷♂️. Just seems some RPM bands mean certain death to some combos
👍👍
Those billet gears will more than likely fail as the n1 pump is designed to be used with the wider surface of the snout replacement drive and no you don’t have to rev the shit out of an rb engine to have a set of gears to fail your better off to use the new sine drive that Nitto supply simalar to 2jz set up and the original gears crack on the heal of the drive and there not designed to be tight clearance due to bad harmonics in the soft rb crank. So pull the bloody thing out it is cheaper than building a new engine and it won’t be a problem if you pull it out so just do it
You just repeated exactly what i said in the video?
Anthony Whelan they’re not designed to be tight, they are certainly not designed to be 8 thou. This is not my first rodeo
lol, I replied should've got Nitto...only to see 15 seconds later you had Nitto. 😂🤣 Is that a long or short nose crank? Seems weird that the oil gears are so far off with so much play. 🤔🤷 Man, this is crazy, never seen that before with Nitto gears. 😬
Added edit: Maybe add the Nitto sine drive?
Its an RB, just hammer some shims in to stop it walking
The oil pump gears don’t just magically bounce around on the crank at high rpm it’s you bash the thing on limiter they bounce.. pretty simple keep it off limiter and control your right foot and you are laughing and that clearance is normally for all those shitty after market gears.. go stock and learn to drive job done!
chris Mark incorrect. They also hammer due to harmonics. An unavoidable issue with I6.
Regardless, in a drift situation you are always on/off throttle. Particularly in chase. There is always potential for hammering and walking of the gears. This is the best way to minimise the risk
Listen mate if you don’t enjoy limiter bashing subscribe to top gear. Clearly on the wrong channel grandpa.
@@honestlybrutalvlt9762 hahaha good call
Honestly brutal VLT I am old as fuck ey, don’t get me wrong I smashed my stock pump and still am it’s just a lot less with a glide behind it.. never really bashed 1st as a manual 3rd gear got it all day.. maybe my pumps a freak but I’m at 45,000klm since boost over 340kw.. and that’s on a pump that had probably 300,000klm on it
@@cwhaaatt the RB pumps are hit or miss mate, and I don't mind a bit of limiter just for shits and giggles aswell, so better to be safe then sorry in my case, and also I don't have a misses telling me I'm spending top munch money on my car lol