I bought my R32 over a year ago but im only starting to really modify it now and this video series is extremely educational. I now know more than the local "hardcore" R32 guys.
The thing I liked about this video solely, was the oil restriction dowel. I've seen too many builds gone wrong b/c people underestimate pickup and flow.
Can basically replace RB with CA and all the info remains the same. Finally someone saying to use large catch cans ;) not these stupid 500ml jokes. CAMS demand at least 2L from memory (or is it half the sump capacity?) or a return. Great to hear you mention the catch can sump return. I use one on my Circuit CA18DET and have never had any issues with oil surge. Have also done the extended sump, oil restrictor and external drains. In CA's I like to remove the cam cover baffles to improve breathing, and with a sump return, if extra oil gets sent out it doesn't matter. Great content
Catch can returns on wet sump engines are almost a requirement for any form of circuit racing. Don't want to be 15 laps in and discover you're sump is empty or your catch can if overflowing and leaking all over the circuit getting a disqualification. In order to win a race, first you have to finish.
Not sure if this will ever be seen by you guys, but curious to know. Would you recommend extending the sump and oil pick-up for an RB25 neo with a bigger oil pump and adding in a baffle to the pan? Soon to be a 500HP rb swapped S13. Looking to take all the precautionary needed to ensure reliablity+maximum fun! Thank you for all of your videos!
Everytime I watch one of your videos it gives me anxiety. Great knowledge for sure, but always feel like I missed so much despite me sparing no expense on my build. Somehow 15k just isn't enough for a street car ecu limited to 620 hp Haha.
Just bought my first project car. Planning on doing an RB25 swap in a year and building it to 400-450 whp stable in a year and a half. How much do you think that would cost?
@@asianboyyy117 400hp is easy in an RB25. I think most people just get bigger injectors and a better turbo. "How much will it cost?" The only answer is "how long is a rope?" It all depends what you want to do to support it. I'm at 700hp now. I built the car for 1000hp, but have no intentions of doing that. It's just a street car.
The 25 has 3 feeds, one for VTC forward and rear and also those hydraulic lifters... I spent days trawling through the SAU forums on oil control, Decided to go with the blank on the rear feed. left the CVT and forward feel alone I did go with an N1 pump so will have increased volume. Did get the sump extended ad baffled too. Not going stupid with revs at around 8k so I think that should suffice.
With my s1 25, I have a Franklin engineering head drain, nitro pump, and an extended sump. I didn't touch the vtc feed, 1.5mm in the middle, and a 1.0mm in the rear. It has been great so far! These video series have been a huge help for me deciding on what parts to go with.
Great detailed video.one question: if you relocate the oil filter housing from an rb25det neo engine block and install the oil relocation plate, do you need to install an oil pressure relief valve too?
Motive Video You talk about moving to modern technology in many videos, why don’t you acknowledge the spline drive solution extended collars are a band aid at best . We make a spline drive for the Nitto pump, happy to send you one to test 😉
Blake Nic We have sold hundreds as too have Spool. These issues are exaggerated at best we have designed ample clearances and as long as proper engine building procedures are followed then there are no issues with the spline drive setup. This video by a customer demonstrates clearance ruclips.net/video/5o4B6vR0lmU/видео.html
@@AdmissionGaming I have a 950whp R34 with Jun splined drive. I've read in a magazine a Canadian R34 800whp had their N1 splined, I believe. Hope these are big enough numbers for you. If you meantioned 1000+, I don't know of these examples.
Supertec Racing been following you guys for a few years now. My Nitto pump exploded which also caused major damage to my crank. I have lined up a Tomei with a spline drive kit as way of having some peace of mind. I do not understand all the negativity from the Nitto guys. Haters will always hate.
Awesome vid Andrew! One question though, is it better to return the head drain to the intake side or turbo side of the Sump? Some conflicting advise online.
Andrew great video brother.i live in the Caribbean. Small island (Grenada ) and am building my rb 25. R33 Would love to run some of these nitto parts . How much would a head n block 25/30 combo full internals cost me to build. We have an abandoned airport sort of like coota mundra we race on. There is a few 8 n 9 sec cars here. Supras/evos And would love to be able to compete with these guys. love the vids bro. Bless
Very surprised crd tells you the small secrets of RBS,then allows it to be spread over the net,we went through all this on mark Jacobsen gtr in early 2000s.
Yeah, but when the oil system costs more than most complete builds then it turns people away. All of the suggestions in the video are a fraction of the price of a dry sump system.
@@Ryanbmc4 a dry sump system will never cost more than a half-decent build unless you're buying over-priced ultra-status-symbol name-brand dry sump kits. You can buy regular kits for $900-3,000 without breaking the bank. In terms of track oriented GTR's, that's nothing. This man is only talking about using a dry sump pump vs a wet sump pump. That should cost you roughly $400-800 at most. But if you do the whole kit, which this guy wasn't talking about, then yes it is more. You also don't need any of these options if you're driving the car in the twisties in the mountains. If you're tracking or drifting, you also don't need any of the above options. A good baffling system combined with a one-way gate, will always keep the pickup fed no matter what. That would cost you roughly $200 of Home Depot aluminum stock, hinges, bolts, and some welding, which would negate the need for additional or pressurized oil storage which would reduce unnecessary weight. It would also reduce the need for other upgrades. The only thing is, if you use a dry-sump pump with a pressure fitting, you gain added durability. Lastly, all those options require you to take apart the engine except the oil pan modification of baffling and one-way gates, which only requires you to remove the oil pan. So either way you look at it, there's better options for both spectrum, but you didn't read the original comment closely enough.
@@bestleesinna7702 please show me how to dry sump my car for 400. I'm only speaking to my own experience and my engine, fuel management, oil, ecu, and air support cost me about 10k. Spending another 3-9k for an entire dry system is crazy for a street car. yes, you're paying for a name... years of people throwing half ass parts on these cars is why i paid so much for reliability. You cant really bitch about supporting a name while they are doing the same thing with Nitto and PRP in every other video. Also, I did read the OPs comment. I'm not sure where you're going with that.
@@Ryanbmc4 HOLY FUCK 9K!? Even fantastic made-to-fit systems for an RB with everything you need are 3k. Thing is, most of us aren't working to build a street car. It's a track car. If you have oil issues bad enough on a street car that you are considering after-market options instead of just baffling and gating your pan, you're inexperienced. I watch 500+ HP builds handle twisties with nothing but baffle inserts and never oil starve. I can bitch about supporting a name. Nitto and PRP aren't the only options on the market lol. You must have read OP's comment but not understood it. He only mentioned a dry sump PUMP. Not the whole system. Just the pump. This can run in either assistance with your regular wet sump pump OR replace your wet sump pump if it has higher flow with little to no modding depending on your configuration. I didn't say you could dry sump your car for $400. I said a pump would run you $400. I really don't think you're reading or maybe you have dyslexia. I'm not being an ass...but between myself and OP, we both said pump like 3 times. Gating and baffling the oil pan to support the pickup ensures you never oil starve. If done right, you can use a dry sump pump to either support your current oil pump externally to direct or stabilize pressure OR you can replace your current pump to INCREASE pressure if not just buy the upgraded wet sump pump. Either solution is cheap. But either way, for a street car, just baffle and gate the pan and you'll be fine. If you're worried about the "weak" oil pump, $400 is the most you need to upgrade it.
Thank you! I have a relatively stock RB and didn't want to just upgrade the oil pump (since that appears it could make the problem worse without corresponding upgrades to go with).
@@dohc1974 funny I keep hearing that but i've been bouncing on limiter for literally 5b years str8 on my bone stock oil pump with not a single problem...I'm not saying it's not true but ppl talk as if its so fragile and it'll break the very first time you hit limiter. It's quite annoying...
You can put billet gears in stock oil pump and wont have to worry about the extra oil flow from a n1,nitto or tomei meaning you don't have to enlarge the oil pan and all that aswell.
Great video, thanks for the information guys. What is your opinion regarding the billet steel replacement gears for the oil pumps that emulate the 1J/2J implementation of driving the pump off the crank? Worth looking at on an RB26 in a stock pump housing that is RWD only?
Hi Andrew, what do you think about oil feed lines on a aftermarket turbo, eg AN6 sizing over AN8, also the feed flange bore diameter to the turbo, Do these play a part in the motors oil pressure etc, cheers
Hi mate I did all of that restrictors baffle plate head drain but I also added spool billet gear inside factory pump and my oil pressure reads a little low at idle about 15-19psi at warm idle but no problem cruising about 55_65 psi. Is there any advantage for billet gear inside factory pump? I was thinking to remove it Cause billet gear have bigger clearance compare to factory and I think that’s why my oil pressure is low at idle
@@MotiveVideo cool thanks. What about crank case vent, do you guys worry about them? as in a line from sump to top of catch can to get rid of any excess crank case pressure simular to breather from the cam covers.
Lets get a side by side comparison of the vg30 and the rb26 motors. Theres a stock motor vg30 in the 8's in texas currently.. dont see any factory rb26's doing that..
Rb30s and all pre Neo rb25s (all r33 and prior rb25s) have the short nose crank (low oil pump to crank contact ) . Where I live in NZ r33 rb25s and rb30s (commonly used for the rb30det builds) are the most common RB engines by far !! I believe this is one of the most important issues to mention.
What is the limit on a rb25det lifer non neo. I got a rb25det with gt4202 and reving out to 8500. But having lifter issue. Have got std oil pump though
A serious question. Why wouldn't you start with a newer technology engine that doesn't need to be under huge stress to make the same power that you could from an RB - like a Barra?
The Ginger Power Ranger theory of engines hasn’t changed much in 100 years. Just better design and materials. But, we can use aftermarket materials and parts now and RB has 30 years of development from aftermarket and racing industry behind it. Most technology advances are in external components. A Barra actually has weak links at 500kw just like a RB does and jus as many at 1000whp Also. The chassis it’s in determines why the Arab is so popular
@@thegingerpowerrangerI don't see how its a bad thing that aftermarket companies are willing to put money and time into an engine for the last 30 years.. If anything its a testament of the RB. Also you realize that Barra's have oil pump issues as well (sinistered metal from factory same as rbs..) also the aftermarket pump gears which are available have basically copied the gear profile of an RB/JZ pump going for a wave type design over the OEM design as it is better. Barra's have a non-square piston to bore ratio (do some research why this isn't good). Barra's can not rev as high as RBs or JZs due to the displacement without having serious money put in. Just last Wednesday drags a barra spun bearings from oil starvation on launch, it is not just rbs that have oil starvation. tl;dr Valve springs need to be replaced to go over 280kw generally, main caps are weak and need to be replaced with billet caps @ 500kw (no factory girdle like the rb), oil pumps are weak, oil starvation issues, coil pack break up, can't rev as easily due to non-square piston to bore ratio and there is so much more. Not to mention the Barra is literally the only good thing about a Falcon. The driveshaft have issue with centrebearings, the design of the tailshaft is weak and need to be upgraded straight away over 450rwhp. The diff bushes need replacement often due to a bad design, roof liner on all falcons fall off, interior falls apart very quickly, paint doesn't last. End of my rant, I hate Falcons but they are one of the main reasons mechanics are still in business.
I dont know any engine builders that are not as precise as you. been stung a few times and i have a Low compression, built for over 100hp rb and im at 600hp, and filling the catch can kicked of the track. has 2 step, haltech plat pro, spool rear drain, nitto n1 pump. on full boost which is small now it still now blows oild all over the place. out the catch can vent.
I am surprised you are still using the factory gallery in the block for pick up ! We were running an external line from oil pan mounted pickup straight to gallery at side of front cover totally eliminating restricted factory sized gallery going back half way along block then forward, also external line allowed much bigger dia all way to pick up, this also eliminated big splash hole in baffle as pick up now went out the side FWIW.
Steven Kelby because they tried back in 2010 and couldn’t make it work. We made it work. Our kits are sold world wide. Hit us up if you are interested.
Can you please do a rb25 vs rb25 neo comparison as theres a lot of myths and guessing on the forums. We like to understand the difference in internals and heads and what it does to power with the same mods
@@MotiveVideo yeah I agree but theres a number of rumours that people argue about like it having a N1 pump as standard and that it has a long snout crank that I'd like you to clarify as no one knows the truth. There's also a lot of differences that people do know, like the neo having top feed injectors instead of side feeds, different compression ratios, additional oil galley restrictors and a different throttle body BUT they don't understand what effect it has on additional power it could make over the standard rb25 or whether its more reliable because of them. Owning a R34 GTT, it's difficult to understand what modifications will do to the engine as forums are subjective and most of the information is for the standard RB25 like do you change the HG to a MLC to make 450bhp @ 1.3bars on a hybrid or not? No body knows, they just suggest it as the standard rb25 needs it. It would just be nice to understand the differences, get rid of the myths surrounding the neo and understand what makes it better if anything. Do they make the same power mod for mod? Are they both unreliable as each other? Many people have this problem when choosing an engine for Conversion between the RB25, RB25 Neo and RB26. Some even say the Neo is better than the RB26 for reliability and can make 1000bhp with the same mods like forged internals. Would make a great video
@@BossCarsUK да, в рб25дет нео стоит маслонасос N1, другие поршня и шатуны рб26. Головка лучше продувается и жёсткие толкатели клапанов. Блоки одинаковые.
Can you cool the oil before returning it to sump using the head drain? Also how effective is it? I think if crank case pressure is excessive you wont get drainage properly right??
No point, putting it thru a oil cooler would create resistance. There are better and more efficient ways to cool the oil. The head drain is effective, anyone serious about their RB uses them.
Blake Nic yeah good point, I guess it’s only using gravity to go back down and not getting pumped back down. Yeah fair enough but just cause everyone uses them it doesn’t mean it’s right. I’m curious if the crank case pressure will affect drainage.
Motive Video thank you for the response. Is there a strengthened pump that isn’t prone to cracking but keeps the flow close to stock? Or do all aftermarket pumps have increased flow?
Hey can you share your build specs and list with me? I have the same build going on and the same power levels aiming for. I would love to compare the specs if you dont mind.
@@chrisherbert5052 i pretty much got the same list too, except the rods. Im stuck on cam choice... Some ppl are saying go 262 and 272 but i was thinking along 256 like what you have since it'll have a better lower end and mid all throughout to the top end too. Do you know if the 256 cams are better or would the others be better for best response from low end to top?
Most places wouldn't be giving out this info, nice of you guys to do it.
Skylines Australia forum has all this information. Has been documented decades ago
@@jacquesvd8717 i was thinking more of the US, lots of car channels i watch struggle with rb's and now they have vids to help them out.
Fair enough. But there is a lot more/better information on the forums
someone was 1st to reach a 6 second pass... they don't care anymore about withholding information lol
It's public information...for about 30 years.
so professional and very good information! Thanks guys.
I built my BNR32 based on your recommendations ❤️❤️❤️❤️👍🏼
Hello from the us. Been watching your vids nonstop since finally getting my r33 back. Keep up the awesome work.
I bought my R32 over a year ago but im only starting to really modify it now and this video series is extremely educational. I now know more than the local "hardcore" R32 guys.
15 years ago this was a very big issue. Great video guys
Great video guys! 🤙
This is absolutely the most amazing video ever posted about an rb engine. 👌🏼👌🏼
Glad to know I will be able to use these videos in about 20 years when I can afford a nice GTR state side.
Nah they will be more expensive then
@@robertsestito6821 yeah but ill have had 20 years to save up.
@@cardesinr if you're into cars like I am we both know we ain't saving shit. Lotto my man lotto is my plan.
@@robertsestito6821 LMAO
Move to Australia, NZ, Britain or Japan and get a GTS-T/GT-T for a good price while they’re still cheap 😛
The thing I liked about this video solely, was the oil restriction dowel. I've seen too many builds gone wrong b/c people underestimate pickup and flow.
I learnt about Rb oil issues the hard way and my 32 burnt down as a result up Glorious back in the day.
I love your channel man, soo much tech information for my BNR34 build :)
Somebody knows the name of the track on the intro/outro?
love it too
Not an RB guy, but a general enthusiast, loving all the technical vids either way.
Mint video. Very informative
When he talks you better listen......good job👍🏽 very informative
I watch to poke holes.
Can basically replace RB with CA and all the info remains the same. Finally someone saying to use large catch cans ;) not these stupid 500ml jokes. CAMS demand at least 2L from memory (or is it half the sump capacity?) or a return.
Great to hear you mention the catch can sump return. I use one on my Circuit CA18DET and have never had any issues with oil surge. Have also done the extended sump, oil restrictor and external drains. In CA's I like to remove the cam cover baffles to improve breathing, and with a sump return, if extra oil gets sent out it doesn't matter.
Great content
I've only seen 2 of those engines in person. one was in a really over the top showcar. the other was in a really early 89 180SX a guy imported.
@@thh420 mines in a TA22 Celica. Goes like a cut snake, weighs about 900kg
@@thh420 I had a ca18det running a s15 t28, 550cc injectors,z32 maf on rb20 coils and it ran like a bat outta hell!
Great information keep it up guys 👌🏼
top notch stuff guys i dont own an rb anymore but these videos are giving me the itch!
Catch can returns on wet sump engines are almost a requirement for any form of circuit racing. Don't want to be 15 laps in and discover you're sump is empty or your catch can if overflowing and leaking all over the circuit getting a disqualification.
In order to win a race, first you have to finish.
really nice to have all this info in one place
Not sure if this will ever be seen by you guys, but curious to know. Would you recommend extending the sump and oil pick-up for an RB25 neo with a bigger oil pump and adding in a baffle to the pan? Soon to be a 500HP rb swapped S13. Looking to take all the precautionary needed to ensure reliablity+maximum fun! Thank you for all of your videos!
To the point and informative the format of this video is spot on! Good job mate
About damn time!! We need more skyline content!
Nice, just about to put a motor together so this info should come in handy!
Amazing stuff guys, people need this RB knowledge.
Everytime I watch one of your videos it gives me anxiety. Great knowledge for sure, but always feel like I missed so much despite me sparing no expense on my build. Somehow 15k just isn't enough for a street car ecu limited to 620 hp Haha.
Right there with you, anxiety in my chest xD
Just bought my first project car. Planning on doing an RB25 swap in a year and building it to 400-450 whp stable in a year and a half. How much do you think that would cost?
@@asianboyyy117 400hp is easy in an RB25. I think most people just get bigger injectors and a better turbo. "How much will it cost?" The only answer is "how long is a rope?"
It all depends what you want to do to support it. I'm at 700hp now. I built the car for 1000hp, but have no intentions of doing that. It's just a street car.
Love the info and the intro!
How to Fix RB 101....replace it with a 2jz and big turbo
Then be 2WD and shit on the street :)
How to fix 2jz with big turbo, replace with vr38 and 2 big turbos 🤷♂️
The 25 has 3 feeds, one for VTC forward and rear and also those hydraulic lifters... I spent days trawling through the SAU forums on oil control, Decided to go with the blank on the rear feed. left the CVT and forward feel alone I did go with an N1 pump so will have increased volume. Did get the sump extended ad baffled too. Not going stupid with revs at around 8k so I think that should suffice.
With my s1 25, I have a Franklin engineering head drain, nitro pump, and an extended sump. I didn't touch the vtc feed, 1.5mm in the middle, and a 1.0mm in the rear. It has been great so far! These video series have been a huge help for me deciding on what parts to go with.
Do not completely block the rear feed, add a restrictor.
@@AxModdedxMayham Yeah CRD and Andrew know their shit.
Great detailed video.one question: if you relocate the oil filter housing from an rb25det neo engine block and install the oil relocation plate, do you need to install an oil pressure relief valve too?
nice vidz dude, your chanel is the best tech chanel for JDM cars ;)
Thanks for the info andrew !! Keep it up !
Priceless info. Thanks man
Good video very clear and informative. Thank you!
Motive Video You talk about moving to modern technology in many videos, why don’t you acknowledge the spline drive solution extended collars are a band aid at best . We make a spline drive for the Nitto pump, happy to send you one to test 😉
Blake Nic We have sold hundreds as too have Spool. These issues are exaggerated at best we have designed ample clearances and as long as proper engine building procedures are followed then there are no issues with the spline drive setup. This video by a customer demonstrates clearance ruclips.net/video/5o4B6vR0lmU/видео.html
Blake Nic do you work for Nitto?
@@AdmissionGaming I have a 950whp R34 with Jun splined drive. I've read in a magazine a Canadian R34 800whp had their N1 splined, I believe. Hope these are big enough numbers for you. If you meantioned 1000+, I don't know of these examples.
Supertec Racing been following you guys for a few years now. My Nitto pump exploded which also caused major damage to my crank. I have lined up a Tomei with a spline drive kit as way of having some peace of mind. I do not understand all the negativity from the Nitto guys. Haters will always hate.
nice job mate keep them coming!
Some RBs don’t in gauge the oil pump all the way on the crank flat
Love the tech videos!
great info thanks
Awesome vid Andrew! One question though, is it better to return the head drain to the intake side or turbo side of the Sump? Some conflicting advise online.
turbo
Would be awesome if you mentioned a flat drive will kill any pump sooner or later. RB26 is the same as Toyota UZ... flat drive fails on both.
Video Idea: WPC Treatment test on stock rb26dett?
I wish y'all did more videos like this about 4g63 engines.
Have to admit they're a stout 4banger.
Andrew great video brother.i live in the Caribbean. Small island (Grenada ) and am building my rb 25. R33 Would love to run some of these nitto parts . How much would a head n block 25/30 combo full internals cost me to build. We have an abandoned airport sort of like coota mundra we race on. There is a few 8 n 9 sec cars here. Supras/evos And would love to be able to compete with these guys. love the vids bro. Bless
If you have to ask then it's to much for you #sorrydirtyrb
Very surprised crd tells you the small secrets of RBS,then allows it to be spread over the net,we went through all this on mark Jacobsen gtr in early 2000s.
Well thanks to stuff like this, I plan to take my Stagea 260RS to CRD in Sydney for a check over/service in future!
Plenty of people that wouldn’t dive into this themselves anyway. Good to know how crd does it and what they use!
Will that make it beat a barra
Turn the key.
Most important question what's that tune at the start over your titles?
Put dry sump pump, done:)
yep.
Yeah, but when the oil system costs more than most complete builds then it turns people away. All of the suggestions in the video are a fraction of the price of a dry sump system.
@@Ryanbmc4 a dry sump system will never cost more than a half-decent build unless you're buying over-priced ultra-status-symbol name-brand dry sump kits. You can buy regular kits for $900-3,000 without breaking the bank. In terms of track oriented GTR's, that's nothing. This man is only talking about using a dry sump pump vs a wet sump pump. That should cost you roughly $400-800 at most. But if you do the whole kit, which this guy wasn't talking about, then yes it is more. You also don't need any of these options if you're driving the car in the twisties in the mountains. If you're tracking or drifting, you also don't need any of the above options. A good baffling system combined with a one-way gate, will always keep the pickup fed no matter what. That would cost you roughly $200 of Home Depot aluminum stock, hinges, bolts, and some welding, which would negate the need for additional or pressurized oil storage which would reduce unnecessary weight. It would also reduce the need for other upgrades. The only thing is, if you use a dry-sump pump with a pressure fitting, you gain added durability. Lastly, all those options require you to take apart the engine except the oil pan modification of baffling and one-way gates, which only requires you to remove the oil pan. So either way you look at it, there's better options for both spectrum, but you didn't read the original comment closely enough.
@@bestleesinna7702 please show me how to dry sump my car for 400.
I'm only speaking to my own experience and my engine, fuel management, oil, ecu, and air support cost me about 10k. Spending another 3-9k for an entire dry system is crazy for a street car.
yes, you're paying for a name... years of people throwing half ass parts on these cars is why i paid so much for reliability. You cant really bitch about supporting a name while they are doing the same thing with Nitto and PRP in every other video.
Also, I did read the OPs comment. I'm not sure where you're going with that.
@@Ryanbmc4 HOLY FUCK 9K!? Even fantastic made-to-fit systems for an RB with everything you need are 3k. Thing is, most of us aren't working to build a street car. It's a track car. If you have oil issues bad enough on a street car that you are considering after-market options instead of just baffling and gating your pan, you're inexperienced. I watch 500+ HP builds handle twisties with nothing but baffle inserts and never oil starve. I can bitch about supporting a name. Nitto and PRP aren't the only options on the market lol. You must have read OP's comment but not understood it. He only mentioned a dry sump PUMP. Not the whole system. Just the pump. This can run in either assistance with your regular wet sump pump OR replace your wet sump pump if it has higher flow with little to no modding depending on your configuration. I didn't say you could dry sump your car for $400. I said a pump would run you $400. I really don't think you're reading or maybe you have dyslexia. I'm not being an ass...but between myself and OP, we both said pump like 3 times. Gating and baffling the oil pan to support the pickup ensures you never oil starve. If done right, you can use a dry sump pump to either support your current oil pump externally to direct or stabilize pressure OR you can replace your current pump to INCREASE pressure if not just buy the upgraded wet sump pump. Either solution is cheap. But either way, for a street car, just baffle and gate the pan and you'll be fine. If you're worried about the "weak" oil pump, $400 is the most you need to upgrade it.
Thank you! I have a relatively stock RB and didn't want to just upgrade the oil pump (since that appears it could make the problem worse without corresponding upgrades to go with).
Yup. Just stay away from bouncing off the red line and in general don’t rev that high and your oem pump will last a while
@@dohc1974 funny I keep hearing that but i've been bouncing on limiter for literally 5b years str8 on my bone stock oil pump with not a single problem...I'm not saying it's not true but ppl talk as if its so fragile and it'll break the very first time you hit limiter. It's quite annoying...
You can put billet gears in stock oil pump and wont have to worry about the extra oil flow from a n1,nitto or tomei meaning you don't have to enlarge the oil pan and all that aswell.
@@clutchkickpj693 cool, thanks for that. Who sells those billet gears?
gav240z we sell billet spline drive gears we cover all pumps from OEM to N1 to Jun and Tomei.
Nice work
Would 2.5 bars at idle and 6.5 bars at WOT be ok for my rb25det c34 Laurel. That’s what it is currently. Recently changed the oil and went with 10w50
So how do I get my 25s1 to rev to 10k without opening a door?
P.S love the new intro. Too long tho x
there are no holes for screws, did you drill them? because then you screw it to the block 4:25 - 4:32
So many people saying “just buy a jz” are people who have probably never done a swap. Not a single one
Great video, thanks for the information guys. What is your opinion regarding the billet steel replacement gears for the oil pumps that emulate the 1J/2J implementation of driving the pump off the crank? Worth looking at on an RB26 in a stock pump housing that is RWD only?
Jared van Bergen Spline drive works and I we have proven that for the past 5 years.
Hi Andrew, what do you think about oil feed lines on a aftermarket turbo, eg AN6 sizing over AN8, also the feed flange bore diameter to the turbo, Do these play a part in the motors oil pressure etc, cheers
You forgot the oil air separater that you put inbetween the catch can and rocker covers
thats what a catch can is (or should be) not just a tank that stores whatever gets puked out.
My rear head drain is tee'd into my turbo oil drain. What will happen if i leave it?
Nothing plenty of ppl run it that way.
Nothing. But it’s also not working as well as it could
Hi mate I did all of that restrictors baffle plate head drain but I also added spool billet gear inside factory pump and my oil pressure reads a little low at idle about 15-19psi at warm idle but no problem cruising about 55_65 psi. Is there any advantage for billet gear inside factory pump? I was thinking to remove it Cause billet gear have bigger clearance compare to factory and I think that’s why my oil pressure is low at idle
With head drain and crank case breather should they be above the windage tray in the sump or doesnt it matter?
Doesnt matter. Ours just goes to top of extended sump section
@@MotiveVideo cool thanks. What about crank case vent, do you guys worry about them? as in a line from sump to top of catch can to get rid of any excess crank case pressure simular to breather from the cam covers.
much appreciated
Lets get a side by side comparison of the vg30 and the rb26 motors. Theres a stock motor vg30 in the 8's in texas currently.. dont see any factory rb26's doing that..
Does rb20det have same oil pump issues ?
Are any of these needed when making around 500 wheel horsepower ?
Can you clarify the oil pressures they suggest running at idle and wot
Things I wish I knew before I got a GTR.
It's just precautionary man they're tons of ppl making good numbers on rbs that haven't done these things so don't worry yourself too much.
Link for accumulator tank ? The last trick you said in the video
Does the rb30et have same oil return from head issues ?
No mention of crank collars or lack of contact between crank and oil pump gears on majority of RB engines ?
Connor Fraser wasn’t crank collar fix only an issue on the early 32s? I agree still worth a mention incase you have never heard of it
Rb30s and all pre Neo rb25s (all r33 and prior rb25s) have the short nose crank (low oil pump to crank contact ) . Where I live in NZ r33 rb25s and rb30s (commonly used for the rb30det builds) are the most common RB engines by far !! I believe this is one of the most important issues to mention.
It's been mentioned in many other vids but yes I agree I should of been mentioned in a vid explaining oiling fixes though
Spline drive is the solution. Extended collars might help a little but the same problem exists they are prone to cracking the gears.
I agree spline drive is better I agree but I’m more shocked nothing at all was mentioned about the lack of contact between pump gears and crank
What was the song that was used in the background
Does the rb25det neo still has this problem? Ot the pump is the n1 from stock?
Can we tag LZ ?
Thx
What is the limit on a rb25det lifer non neo. I got a rb25det with gt4202 and reving out to 8500. But having lifter issue. Have got std oil pump though
Regarding street builds, would I just need the billet oil pump and possibly the head drain kit
Must have enlarged sump with high volume pump
need restrictor also
A serious question. Why wouldn't you start with a newer technology engine that doesn't need to be under huge stress to make the same power that you could from an RB - like a Barra?
The Ginger Power Ranger theory of engines hasn’t changed much in 100 years. Just better design and materials. But, we can use aftermarket materials and parts now and RB has 30 years of development from aftermarket and racing industry behind it.
Most technology advances are in external components.
A Barra actually has weak links at 500kw just like a RB does and jus as many at 1000whp
Also. The chassis it’s in determines why the Arab is so popular
@@MotiveVideo very interesting there's been so much aftermarket development that you would still stick to a 30 year old base design
@@thegingerpowerrangerI don't see how its a bad thing that aftermarket companies are willing to put money and time into an engine for the last 30 years.. If anything its a testament of the RB.
Also you realize that Barra's have oil pump issues as well (sinistered metal from factory same as rbs..) also the aftermarket pump gears which are available have basically copied the gear profile of an RB/JZ pump going for a wave type design over the OEM design as it is better.
Barra's have a non-square piston to bore ratio (do some research why this isn't good).
Barra's can not rev as high as RBs or JZs due to the displacement without having serious money put in.
Just last Wednesday drags a barra spun bearings from oil starvation on launch, it is not just rbs that have oil starvation.
tl;dr Valve springs need to be replaced to go over 280kw generally, main caps are weak and need to be replaced with billet caps @ 500kw (no factory girdle like the rb), oil pumps are weak, oil starvation issues, coil pack break up, can't rev as easily due to non-square piston to bore ratio and there is so much more.
Not to mention the Barra is literally the only good thing about a Falcon. The driveshaft have issue with centrebearings, the design of the tailshaft is weak and need to be upgraded straight away over 450rwhp. The diff bushes need replacement often due to a bad design, roof liner on all falcons fall off, interior falls apart very quickly, paint doesn't last.
End of my rant, I hate Falcons but they are one of the main reasons mechanics are still in business.
@@AdmissionGaming Jesus man I appreciate your reply but I stopped reading after the first 20 minutes!
if you just wanted a new pump thats stronger what do u suggest?
any rb20det owners have any advice what's the best route to take with the oil setup?
I dont know any engine builders that are not as precise as you. been stung a few times and i have a Low compression, built for over 100hp rb and im at 600hp, and filling the catch can kicked of the track. has 2 step, haltech plat pro, spool rear drain, nitto n1 pump. on full boost which is small now it still now blows oild all over the place. out the catch can vent.
What about an extended crank collar?
Any videos on head work
Hi guys! Can i use RB25 neo block with rb25 hydraulic lifters head?
Interesting crd say dont drill out oil galleries in the block is this more for big hp builds where block strength becomes an issue?
I did drill the head returns out but with the block I ground a special drill to taper from head gasket size to the block size over about a 3mm depth.
I am surprised you are still using the factory gallery in the block for pick up ! We were running an external line from oil pan mounted pickup straight to gallery at side of front cover totally eliminating restricted factory sized gallery going back half way along block then forward, also external line allowed much bigger dia all way to pick up, this also eliminated big splash hole in baffle as pick up now went out the side FWIW.
But what happens when you corner and all the oil flows to the other side of the sump ?
On rb25det, what size restrictor for rb25?
Dry sump is the way to go over 500 kw
Can you’s also go over the Supertec spline drive kits please I have one and they are amazing
Michael O'keeffe they will not tell you about the spline drive kits as an option to make your oil pumps robust and preventing gears from cracking.
@@SupertecRacing Why not? Why wouldn't they tell us?
@@stevenkelby2169 Probably because they don't sell them :-)
Steven Kelby because they tried back in 2010 and couldn’t make it work. We made it work. Our kits are sold world wide. Hit us up if you are interested.
@@SupertecRacing Флинту приветик! ;)
What is the limit on rb25det lifters ?
Olso need for stock rb25neo??
Can you please do a rb25 vs rb25 neo comparison as theres a lot of myths and guessing on the forums. We like to understand the difference in internals and heads and what it does to power with the same mods
No myths with the block> the block has the same part number and tests up the same. all differences are in the head and the rods/pistons
@@MotiveVideo yeah I agree but theres a number of rumours that people argue about like it having a N1 pump as standard and that it has a long snout crank that I'd like you to clarify as no one knows the truth.
There's also a lot of differences that people do know, like the neo having top feed injectors instead of side feeds, different compression ratios, additional oil galley restrictors and a different throttle body BUT they don't understand what effect it has on additional power it could make over the standard rb25 or whether its more reliable because of them.
Owning a R34 GTT, it's difficult to understand what modifications will do to the engine as forums are subjective and most of the information is for the standard RB25 like do you change the HG to a MLC to make 450bhp @ 1.3bars on a hybrid or not? No body knows, they just suggest it as the standard rb25 needs it.
It would just be nice to understand the differences, get rid of the myths surrounding the neo and understand what makes it better if anything. Do they make the same power mod for mod? Are they both unreliable as each other?
Many people have this problem when choosing an engine for Conversion between the RB25, RB25 Neo and RB26. Some even say the Neo is better than the RB26 for reliability and can make 1000bhp with the same mods like forged internals.
Would make a great video
@@BossCarsUK да, в рб25дет нео стоит маслонасос N1, другие поршня и шатуны рб26. Головка лучше продувается и жёсткие толкатели клапанов. Блоки одинаковые.
Can you cool the oil before returning it to sump using the head drain? Also how effective is it? I think if crank case pressure is excessive you wont get drainage properly right??
No point, putting it thru a oil cooler would create resistance. There are better and more efficient ways to cool the oil. The head drain is effective, anyone serious about their RB uses them.
Blake Nic yeah good point, I guess it’s only using gravity to go back down and not getting pumped back down.
Yeah fair enough but just cause everyone uses them it doesn’t mean it’s right. I’m curious if the crank case pressure will affect drainage.
@@AdmissionGaming это не слив масла с головы, это дополнительная вентиляция картера и не более...
Hey i got problem on my turbo feed.. theres oil pressure in dashboard ang oil at cams.. but no turbo oil feed
Is left vs right into the sump any better with the head line to the sump and breather size and baffle in the catch can
Doesnt matter. Just as long as it goes back to sump
@@MotiveVideo really. What about the rotation of the crank and the natural venturi it cause. Or is this just another myth
Is there a “budget” way to ensure proper oil flow? I’m keeping mine under 400 hp, so is everything besides the high flow oil pump and gears necessary?
The problem is once you go high flow pump, you need all the other support gear
Motive Video thank you for the response. Is there a strengthened pump that isn’t prone to cracking but keeps the flow close to stock? Or do all aftermarket pumps have increased flow?
@@barrettgt-r9692 залить правильное масло и всё
What is the safe rpm for short nose crank when tuning , 7500 ? Or it's too much for the short nose ?
Stock rev limit is 7500 for a reason 👍
So .. in your opinion, what is the safe rpm number for stock rb26?
Asho0ori Asho0ori factory redline is the safe number
Adam LZ should watch this for his RB25 32 cuz its always having oiling issues.
Adam LZ should watch and learn lots of things.
@Stavros I wish that was true, my fucker won't run either, no-one watched it lol.
👉Whats the name of the intro song?👈
My rb25 build motor n1 pump. Rev 8200 made 725whp behind a th400 with a tomei oil orfice
Chris Herbert thanks for that
Hey can you share your build specs and list with me? I have the same build going on and the same power levels aiming for. I would love to compare the specs if you dont mind.
Jagdeo Nathoo cp pistons. Manley Rods. Super tech springs and retainer. Tomei 256 cams. N1 oil and water pump. Crank collar. Nismo tstat. Tomei head gasket.
@@chrisherbert5052 i pretty much got the same list too, except the rods.
Im stuck on cam choice... Some ppl are saying go 262 and 272 but i was thinking along 256 like what you have since it'll have a better lower end and mid all throughout to the top end too. Do you know if the 256 cams are better or would the others be better for best response from low end to top?
25 30 or just 25 ? Stop reving at 8200 due to lifters of turbo?
Where would I look for problems of Oil getting into the water. Is there a head mod to prevent this?
thats a major problem and the fix is to fox it and build it propely
@@MotiveVideo it's a cost problem now though. ;) We are hoping it's OEM oil heat exchanger cracked.
Damn, forgot to subscribe...
There you go..