Nice Vid, Andrew. Interesting fact: as of recently, NISMO actually sell RB26 specific oil made by MOTUL which is.....10W-60. From now on, I'm gonna plug this video everytime I see this question asked in the RB tech group lol.
For as long as there have been cars, and as long as there will be cars, there will always be an Oil topic debate. For whatever reason, it will never matter how much positive evidence you have for a certain Oil Type.
Work for a chemical testing facility in the US, we rate new oils from companies such as penzoil or mobil 1. 10W-60 is absolutely the oil I would run in any scenario on RB's and it is what I run on my 32gtr. Good video!
I suppose another counter argument to the “check the owners manual” crap, is that it would also only really apply to a stock motor, if we’re modifying our vehicle we need to adapt the oil needs to the car we’ve built
We've been using 10w-60 on every RB and JZ for a long time because they noticeably improve longevity of the engines. Truth is most performance oriented engines from that era benefit running 10w-60, goes to show since even Porsche for example changed the recommendation to 10w-60 on the 964 engines!
Higher oil pressure means higher restriction on oil flow so just using the highest viscosity and getting the biggest pressure is not a sign that everything operates as usual. For near stock powered streetcars with no spikes on oil pressure a lower viscosity oil means just that there is a good flow of oil in the engine. The pressure is not what keeps bearings lubricated but rather the oil film that is achieved by getting oil into the bearings. I fully agree that on higher power engines and racing the high viscosity is best but it's still not a universal fact.
Very good info. Although maybe shoud've mentioned that using higher viscosity oils for the purpose of higher pressures than manufacturer's recommendations lead to higher oil temperatures even without load. So its a trade between pressure and temperature and therefore must have good oil temp control. If capable of keeping temps relatively low at higher pressure, then You have the benefits of that higher pressure. If not You just overstress the oil structure and loose its specifications.
Funny this, I just started putting 10W-60 into my humble SR for track days. Pressure has never been an issue but you can tell when it's thinner after a few hot laps.
The base weight of the oil does actually affect the running viscosity. Modifiers can only do so much. A 10W40 will be thicker than a 5w40 at operating temperature.
I used to think the 'W' in front of the first number stands for "weight" as well because that's how everyone around me called it, but that's incorrect: it stands for "winter", and it is the cold temperature viscosity at 0 deg C as mentioned in the video; there is nothing related to "weight" or different weights of oil, they all weight the same.
I'm definitely one of the few that drive in -30°F. Coldest I've started and driven the car outside was -38°F and she started first try with no issues. I love my r32!
I like the 10w-60 recommendation but to be clear, the oil’s viscosity does not increase as its temperature increases. 10w-60 means that at zero Celsius the oil flows like a 10 weight oil that is at Zero Celsius and at 100 Celsius it flows like a 60 weight oil that is at 100 Celsius. The oil is still “thinner” at 100 Celsius compared to when it is at 0 Celsius.
I actually use Mobile Turbo Diesel Oil in my RB30/26 R33 GTR Vspec. I was using the Motul oil but got tired of ordering it. I needed a local solution. I also installed a accusump with a upgraded oil pump.
In the US, if you're in a pinch and can't source Nulon 10w-60, CASTROL sells 10w-60 Supercar. It's in stock at every AutoZone, Pepboys, Advanced Auto parts, etc but is usually not out on display.
This is pretty spot on, accurate info here. Personally, my RB30 uses trick con rods with oil squirters shooting under the piston crowns (it's not like an RB25/26 with oil squirters in the block) but I don't have an external oil cooler. I know I need to fit one, but to help deal with the high oil temps I'd use a 20W - 50 but with the addition of an oil fortifier to thicken the oil up to somewhere in the range of a 30/40W - 70 (built RB30 turbo, R31 Skyline)... My oil temp often creeps as high as 110 - 115 deg which is outside the working temps intended by 10, maybe even 20 degs...
I used to change the oil every 500 - 1000km BECAUSE I was cooking hell out of the oil and losing a lot of the additives put in by the oil company... Being a mechanic, I've had access to Australian oil companies who were really knowledgeable and taught me far more than what I learnt at trade school and through my own personal experience... I didn't realise you could evaporate some really important additives in modern oils- so I was advised by the company if you don't"t want to buy really expensive oil, change it really regularly
3:00 there are surprisingly very large amount of RB's in Russia, as they "share" boarder with Japan import is/was very popular 3:08 yeah, i have 20w-40 in my tdi and like past 3 weeks there was constantly -18°C every morning
Many thanks to our GOD of RB’s !! I was told 15/50 Motul NISMO oil was the go to goods. And I’m not making any mistakes as my build has gone far over my budget. And the car is still not finished. I thought $50k would be suffice to build a N1 block. Ha Ha, wtf do i know. Thank you Andrew and Co..
Very Cool, thanks for that Andrew. We saw great improvement(reliability) years ago when we switched to Edge 10w60 on meth racing engines , turbo and N/A in 4cyl. Hot Climate racing engines Ethanol/Methanol, true 100% synthetic 10w60 is King. We've been using Castrol Edge 10w60 ever since. Petronas 10w60 synthetic recently been marketed heavely and very much cheaper than Edge. And Motul 10w60 8100 came after Edge(availability wise)now the Petronas 10w60 Synthium Racing now recently came om market and the cheapest price. That's all 10w60 availble to us execpt fot the Liquid Moly 10w60(but crazy expensive) even more so than Motul. Unfortunately we do not have acess to Nulon with the extra zinc and Moly. Cool video's. Keep them coming.
Great info! Had a question about volume vs pressure. If the viscosity goes up the volume of oil moving thru the engine can decrease since it’s too thick, couldn’t it give the illusion of higher pressure but actually be moving less oil than a thinner weight?
that is true, thus the info in the video is not full. In general, clearances determine the viscosity, if your oil have a high temp and low pressure, you need add cooling to your oil.
my opinion. i tried 10w60 in my 25/30 (stock block, n1 pump, gears, vct, stock clearances etc) and found the cold and hot pressures were excessively high for my liking (eg 80+psi @2500rpm, hot). I went back to a 5w40 and pressures are much more reasonable, even on scorching hot days. Obviously motorsport use/a highly modified engine will have different requirements.
the bigger the pfp, bigger the clrearances the bigger the oil pressure. going lower viscosity with adjustable pump or higher viscosity with some good old big gear pump and there you go. but for daily driving mostly it can be better to use 5w50 here in europe if u see good numbers on the psi clock. but u r screwed with hydraulic lifters with w60 oil.
Quality of oil and shear stability is a big factor. No benefit having 60 weight oil that’ll shear down significantly after a few hundred km of street driving. Base oils group 4-5 with ester have much greater shear stability under extreme conditions. Especially the ones who run e85, having a high quality oil is paramount, as e85 will break down the viscosity fairly quickly. Iv tried off the shelf 15w50, 10w60 and recently to a high quality 10w40 and my pressures are virtually the same.
Thanks fir the video. I use shell 10w-60 for 500vhp rb25. Also want to buy Q50 with vr30ddtt. What oil should I use if I live in warm climate ? 5-30 or 5-40? What is your recommendation? Thanks
I'm sorry, but the info is not full in this video. When you go to a higher viscosity oil, the pressure of the oil rises, that is true, but the flow decreases and the capability of cooling the engine. Oil not only lubricates, but cools down the components in the bottom end. Correct oil should be determined by the clearances in the engine, if RB clearances allow 10w-60, that's ok, but in general, you don't play like that with viscosity. If you have low pressure, when your oil gets hot, you need to add cooling to your oil.
True but there is something else which many people overlook, and this has been tested and proven empirically. Intense engine loads especially during racing or hard driving on the street can, after a few hundred or thousand kilometers, completely shear the oil's molecular lattice structure, which in other terms, means the grade can drop down by a full grade. So a 10-60 would end up comparatively like a 10-50, i.e it will thin out and remain thinner for the remainder of its life. Not only, but higher grade oils especially from notable brands such as Motul offer increased bearing protection because they form a much stronger oil film on top of the bearings which is more resistant to direct metal to metal contact. Additionally, even though RBs love to run somewhat cool (84-87*C) under most conditions, when driven very hard or on the track, they could go well into the 95-100*C range. The increased temperatures further thin the oil out. So the conclusion is, you compensate for these factors by running a much thicker oil to begin with. Fact of the matter is, if you take two identical RBs and drive them equally hard, one running 5-30 the other running 10-60, the latter will last longer and be better protected.
@@ReubenHornerhe's talking about multi -grade oils though, viscosity is low when the oil is cold so it can flow better on cold start's. Viscosity gets higher as the engine warms up so it can protect the engine. That's why the cold viscosity number is always lower than the hot viscosity number on the bottle, such as 10w-60.
When comparing the leading brands of oil, the first determining factor for weight has always been ambient temperature, then to supplement was turbo vs n/a, and lastly, are there oil leaks where a slightly thicker oil will reduce the leaking. And because I live in California, and I keep up on my maintenance, with minor leaks on my 535i bmw, i go with 10-40w but that’s because it’s usually cheaper
I've got a 5 litre 10w60 Fuchs Racing Oil sat in my tool box for about 5 years because everybody says it's too thick! Definitely using that oil for my RB25 Neo once summer hits. Great video!
@@slickstringsbut are you sure? Or is it just that your dipstick shows clean oil? I havent considered castrol since the 90's and seeing the results of only using castrol since new on holden red and blue motors.
Great RB content! I would like to know if you or somebody can answer my question. Do you guys have used the Mobil1 15w50 before? The reason why I'm asking is because I can buy that for $30 a jug and not $100+ dollars on the 10w60. My RB25 is stock and is only pushing 400whp. I go thru oil changes every time I go to a drift day at the track so I'm trying to keep my expenses low. Thank you!
i feel the need to add two important facts to choosing the right oil.... while the video is factually correct, it doesn't tell everything. a lower first number increases the speed at which the oil is capable of reaching all critical parts in an engine if it sat for a longer time or if you did an oilchange which can reduce dry lubrication and early wear. the second number is also telling about the temperature at which the oil starts to boil. the rb26 can easily reach 110° celsius with just regular cruising. if you thrash it a -40 oil can start to boil. if you plan on driving your rb powered engine as it should be, the oil should be at least -50 or as the video mentioned.... -60
@motivegarage How much does this translate over to a 2JZ in your opinion? I'm thinking it's pretty relative. Just not sure about the oil pressure numbers.
I put 10w - 60 in my r34 GTT and it ran like an absolute slug so bad I changed to 10w - 30 2 weeks later massive difference all my hp back I wonder why?
@@Datsem who knows my car never ran bad ever till I put that oil in I've owned my skyline for 15 years I know when it's running good or not and it didn't like 10w-60
Good info. Which oil pump do you recommend at the moment for a 80% street car running only 500hp? Will be refreshing my engine before it goes back in my S30 after sitting for a couple of years. Always ran a nismo, had great oil pressure and no problems. But its really not an area I want to skimp on. So if its best to change to an alternative I will, could just be cheap insurance.
Penrite in my 1j aswell, heard good things about Shell ultra from BMW guys who are obsessed about oil due to their bearing issues so might try it in Future.
Anything over 140psi and you'll most likely start blowing out front or rear main seals. I have a rb and jz car and I typically run 125 psi oil @wot but they're known to literally blow out the front main seals once it's starts getting higher than that unless you're doing a dry sump configuration
You think vr1 20w-50 would be good for Rb20det? I've ran that in all my k series and been awesome. But never in my rb. I feel like 5w-30 is too thin for rb20
I would think so but it depends a little bit on what your bearing clearances are. I use VR1 20w-50 Synthetic in my 4g63 but the engine is built with bearing clearances at about .0022 inches (about .001 more than typical stock). What are your RB20 bearing clearances?
A big mistake I see is that people will use competition oils like Motul Racing on their street car but don't realize its got none of the preservatives or detergents for street use which ends up hurting their motor also. Mainly though, don't be lazy people.... do your changes more often!
Any engine going to like 10w 60 it's just $70 - $100 a bottle. I get it for you guys who have spent big 💵 on a engine you want to protect your investment, but the rest of us plebs what can we settle on that will be fine because we're not making big power?
I’ve been running my 3S-GTEs on 15w-50 in Texas for decades. Several engines, several Celicas and MR2s. Only one ever needed a rebuild but that was a week after I bought my first boost controller (I’ll let you puzzle that one on your own 🤣). The rest have hundreds of thousands of miles on original bottom ends. In fact, I’m worried about the condition of my spare crate engine. It’s been in it’s original shipping crate for IDK how long.
From my experience with SRs I have always ran 15w40 rotella T6 with a puralator filter. Had a built SR making 400whp drifting, bashing limiter, and all of that non sense last 5 years with me until I sold it. That person ran it for 3 years before he sold it.
@@MotiveVideo wow okay thanks for the reply. Been told by lots it’s too thick if my oil pressure is good already but I am in aus so might just switch to the 10w-60 currently running 10w-40
Keep trying to tell people this with vk56 in the y62 People out 5w30 in a 400hp 3t car thrashing around in dunes on 40+ degree days, or tow 3 ton with that oil, which is ridiculous. The only reason 5w30 is recommended from Nissan is fuel economy If you look in the manual for it, it shows the temp range like you show in this video.
Nice Vid, Andrew. Interesting fact: as of recently, NISMO actually sell RB26 specific oil made by MOTUL which is.....10W-60. From now on, I'm gonna plug this video everytime I see this question asked in the RB tech group lol.
Hope you have the link saved to the clipboard with how often the question comes up lol.
Interesting, last year I took nismo/motul for rb and it was 15-50
For as long as there have been cars, and as long as there will be cars, there will always be an Oil topic debate. For whatever reason, it will never matter how much positive evidence you have for a certain Oil Type.
Work for a chemical testing facility in the US, we rate new oils from companies such as penzoil or mobil 1. 10W-60 is absolutely the oil I would run in any scenario on RB's and it is what I run on my 32gtr. Good video!
I suppose another counter argument to the “check the owners manual” crap, is that it would also only really apply to a stock motor, if we’re modifying our vehicle we need to adapt the oil needs to the car we’ve built
We've been using 10w-60 on every RB and JZ for a long time because they noticeably improve longevity of the engines. Truth is most performance oriented engines from that era benefit running 10w-60, goes to show since even Porsche for example changed the recommendation to 10w-60 on the 964 engines!
Why do you use 5W30 and not 10W60 in the Yaris GR?
Gr yaris takes 0-20
@@giacominam1965he said from that era
Higher oil pressure means higher restriction on oil flow so just using the highest viscosity and getting the biggest pressure is not a sign that everything operates as usual. For near stock powered streetcars with no spikes on oil pressure a lower viscosity oil means just that there is a good flow of oil in the engine. The pressure is not what keeps bearings lubricated but rather the oil film that is achieved by getting oil into the bearings. I fully agree that on higher power engines and racing the high viscosity is best but it's still not a universal fact.
Very good info. Although maybe shoud've mentioned that using higher viscosity oils for the purpose of higher pressures than manufacturer's recommendations lead to higher oil temperatures even without load. So its a trade between pressure and temperature and therefore must have good oil temp control. If capable of keeping temps relatively low at higher pressure, then You have the benefits of that higher pressure. If not You just overstress the oil structure and loose its specifications.
Yet he specifically states many owners report BETTER temp control with 10w60 in RBs...
Funny this, I just started putting 10W-60 into my humble SR for track days.
Pressure has never been an issue but you can tell when it's thinner after a few hot laps.
The base weight of the oil does actually affect the running viscosity. Modifiers can only do so much.
A 10W40 will be thicker than a 5w40 at operating temperature.
I use 5w40 on my 640hp ca18det, few years no problem at all. the pressure is good. viscosity depends on clearances🤷
Damn thats an awesome build, CA18s are still my favourite turbo 4 cyl sound.
I used to think the 'W' in front of the first number stands for "weight" as well because that's how everyone around me called it, but that's incorrect: it stands for "winter", and it is the cold temperature viscosity at 0 deg C as mentioned in the video; there is nothing related to "weight" or different weights of oil, they all weight the same.
Not many know this
I'm definitely one of the few that drive in -30°F. Coldest I've started and driven the car outside was -38°F and she started first try with no issues. I love my r32!
I use 5w40 have done for 10 years with no issues! Great oil pressure and done a couple of track sessions.
I use Amsoil Premium Protection 10w-40, great results.
I like the 10w-60 recommendation but to be clear, the oil’s viscosity does not increase as its temperature increases. 10w-60 means that at zero Celsius the oil flows like a 10 weight oil that is at Zero Celsius and at 100 Celsius it flows like a 60 weight oil that is at 100 Celsius. The oil is still “thinner” at 100 Celsius compared to when it is at 0 Celsius.
Yep, just came here to say that.
I actually use Mobile Turbo Diesel Oil in my RB30/26 R33 GTR Vspec. I was using the Motul oil but got tired of ordering it. I needed a local solution. I also installed a accusump with a upgraded oil pump.
Loving these videos 👌 i dont even have a performance car anymore but love learning something new 😊
In the US, if you're in a pinch and can't source Nulon 10w-60, CASTROL sells 10w-60 Supercar.
It's in stock at every AutoZone, Pepboys, Advanced Auto parts, etc but is usually not out on display.
This is pretty spot on, accurate info here. Personally, my RB30 uses trick con rods with oil squirters shooting under the piston crowns (it's not like an RB25/26 with oil squirters in the block) but I don't have an external oil cooler. I know I need to fit one, but to help deal with the high oil temps I'd use a 20W - 50 but with the addition of an oil fortifier to thicken the oil up to somewhere in the range of a 30/40W - 70 (built RB30 turbo, R31 Skyline)... My oil temp often creeps as high as 110 - 115 deg which is outside the working temps intended by 10, maybe even 20 degs...
I used to change the oil every 500 - 1000km BECAUSE I was cooking hell out of the oil and losing a lot of the additives put in by the oil company... Being a mechanic, I've had access to Australian oil companies who were really knowledgeable and taught me far more than what I learnt at trade school and through my own personal experience... I didn't realise you could evaporate some really important additives in modern oils- so I was advised by the company if you don't"t want to buy really expensive oil, change it really regularly
3:00 there are surprisingly very large amount of RB's in Russia, as they "share" boarder with Japan import is/was very popular
3:08 yeah, i have 20w-40 in my tdi and like past 3 weeks there was constantly -18°C every morning
Truth. I even noticed slightly higher pressure and lower temperature going from Castrol 10w-50 to Takumi 10w-60 in my RB26.
Thanks for mentioning the oil pressure you see. I was worried mine was too high at 130psi cold & just under 120psi at full noise on my built 25neo.
It's oil flow not pressure that puts oil into your engine.
That's pretty high pressure..
@@ReubenHorner yea my stock s1 doesn't go past 50psi @7600rpms 🤣
Many thanks to our GOD of RB’s !! I was told 15/50 Motul NISMO oil was the go to goods. And I’m not making any mistakes as my build has gone far over my budget. And the car is still not finished. I thought $50k would be suffice to build a N1 block. Ha Ha, wtf do i know.
Thank you Andrew and Co..
I think ticker is better. I use edge from time to time as well.
Very Cool, thanks for that Andrew. We saw great improvement(reliability) years ago when we switched to Edge 10w60 on meth racing engines , turbo and N/A in 4cyl. Hot Climate racing engines Ethanol/Methanol, true 100% synthetic 10w60 is King. We've been using Castrol Edge 10w60 ever since. Petronas 10w60 synthetic recently been marketed heavely and very much cheaper than Edge. And Motul 10w60 8100 came after Edge(availability wise)now the Petronas 10w60 Synthium Racing now recently came om market and the cheapest price. That's all 10w60 availble to us execpt fot the Liquid Moly 10w60(but crazy expensive) even more so than Motul. Unfortunately we do not have acess to Nulon with the extra zinc and Moly. Cool video's. Keep them coming.
Great info! Had a question about volume vs pressure. If the viscosity goes up the volume of oil moving thru the engine can decrease since it’s too thick, couldn’t it give the illusion of higher pressure but actually be moving less oil than a thinner weight?
Higher viscosity oil also puts more strain on your oil pump. Without a Nitto pump you can risk breaking your oil pump.
that is true, thus the info in the video is not full. In general, clearances determine the viscosity, if your oil have a high temp and low pressure, you need add cooling to your oil.
Almost scary timing. I was about to comment on another video of yours about when this video would come. I wake up next day and it's live!
my opinion. i tried 10w60 in my 25/30 (stock block, n1 pump, gears, vct, stock clearances etc) and found the cold and hot pressures were excessively high for my liking (eg 80+psi @2500rpm, hot). I went back to a 5w40 and pressures are much more reasonable, even on scorching hot days. Obviously motorsport use/a highly modified engine will have different requirements.
We spent an entire video explaining why RBs love high oil pressure
Just curious Andrew, do you run the same viscosity in jet200? Great content as always.
I use the Penrite HPR 10w-50 in my RB25 Neo and have done for 12+ years and never had any sort of mechanical Issue.
your RB is blessed bro
@@dogukan_manco just well taken care of.
simply put and explained. Thank you Andrew
15-50 penrite oil for my Rb30et
Seems to work pretty well, great oil pressure and when it’s time to change it it’s always pretty clean
the bigger the pfp, bigger the clrearances the bigger the oil pressure. going lower viscosity with adjustable pump or higher viscosity with some good old big gear pump and there you go.
but for daily driving mostly it can be better to use 5w50 here in europe if u see good numbers on the psi clock. but u r screwed with hydraulic lifters with w60 oil.
Lemon Squash Racing 69W-420
Quality of oil and shear stability is a big factor. No benefit having 60 weight oil that’ll shear down significantly after a few hundred km of street driving. Base oils group 4-5 with ester have much greater shear stability under extreme conditions. Especially the ones who run e85, having a high quality oil is paramount, as e85 will break down the viscosity fairly quickly.
Iv tried off the shelf 15w50, 10w60 and recently to a high quality 10w40 and my pressures are virtually the same.
Thanks fir the video. I use shell 10w-60 for 500vhp rb25. Also want to buy Q50 with vr30ddtt. What oil should I use if I live in warm climate ? 5-30 or 5-40? What is your recommendation? Thanks
My RB26 runs so much better now than when I was running it on cooking oil.
I'm sorry, but the info is not full in this video. When you go to a higher viscosity oil, the pressure of the oil rises, that is true, but the flow decreases and the capability of cooling the engine. Oil not only lubricates, but cools down the components in the bottom end. Correct oil should be determined by the clearances in the engine, if RB clearances allow 10w-60, that's ok, but in general, you don't play like that with viscosity. If you have low pressure, when your oil gets hot, you need to add cooling to your oil.
True but there is something else which many people overlook, and this has been tested and proven empirically. Intense engine loads especially during racing or hard driving on the street can, after a few hundred or thousand kilometers, completely shear the oil's molecular lattice structure, which in other terms, means the grade can drop down by a full grade. So a 10-60 would end up comparatively like a 10-50, i.e it will thin out and remain thinner for the remainder of its life. Not only, but higher grade oils especially from notable brands such as Motul offer increased bearing protection because they form a much stronger oil film on top of the bearings which is more resistant to direct metal to metal contact. Additionally, even though RBs love to run somewhat cool (84-87*C) under most conditions, when driven very hard or on the track, they could go well into the 95-100*C range. The increased temperatures further thin the oil out. So the conclusion is, you compensate for these factors by running a much thicker oil to begin with.
Fact of the matter is, if you take two identical RBs and drive them equally hard, one running 5-30 the other running 10-60, the latter will last longer and be better protected.
Great video content as always Andrew. Keep it coming, I love your channel mate!🔥
Would you still run 10w60 in a stock rb25det, stock turbo?
I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50!!!
So running a stock motor with upgraded turbos and other bolt ons you suggest 10W-60?
Farout. I was wondering what to put in after the fresh rebuild. Cheers for this info. Rb25det for reference.
Interesting! Good video and I agree on the 10w60! I have always used that on rb’s too!
What do you think about 1jz or 2jz?
I only use the best. Cold pressed extra virgin olive oil ftw. 👍
The temp/viscosity graph @ 3:31 is upside down, the viscosity increases with heat, your graph has it decreasing.
Viscosity decreases with higher temperature
You couldn't be any more wrong...
Imagine being so wrong. Oil doesn't get thicker with temp haha
@@ReubenHornerhe's talking about multi -grade oils though, viscosity is low when the oil is cold so it can flow better on cold start's. Viscosity gets higher as the engine warms up so it can protect the engine. That's why the cold viscosity number is always lower than the hot viscosity number on the bottle, such as 10w-60.
@@DarrenBoxhallthey're talking about multi -grade oils, they're designed to be lower viscosity when cold compared to when the engine warms up.
I will test this oil in my Kia Stinger gt cause I am going on a track, by the book it uses 5w-30 so let’s see about the 10w60 full synthetic
I love these videos very informative 👏🏾.
When comparing the leading brands of oil, the first determining factor for weight has always been ambient temperature, then to supplement was turbo vs n/a, and lastly, are there oil leaks where a slightly thicker oil will reduce the leaking. And because I live in California, and I keep up on my maintenance, with minor leaks on my 535i bmw, i go with 10-40w but that’s because it’s usually cheaper
I've got a 5 litre 10w60 Fuchs Racing Oil sat in my tool box for about 5 years because everybody says it's too thick! Definitely using that oil for my RB25 Neo once summer hits. Great video!
What about your srve Andrew ? Recommend the same oil?
I follow the ABC's of choosing oil, Anything But Castrol!
reasons?
The oil blender or brand name on the bottle don’t care which dead dinosaurs go in your engine.
KV and ACEA/API are the only specs that matter
@@slickstrings carbon build up. So much carbon build up that it can be difficult to remove side plates or the rocker cover.
@@RedmistAU ive been using castrol for 5 years in my car. Clean as a whistle inside.
@@slickstringsbut are you sure? Or is it just that your dipstick shows clean oil? I havent considered castrol since the 90's and seeing the results of only using castrol since new on holden red and blue motors.
Great RB content! I would like to know if you or somebody can answer my question. Do you guys have used the Mobil1 15w50 before? The reason why I'm asking is because I can buy that for $30 a jug and not $100+ dollars on the 10w60. My RB25 is stock and is only pushing 400whp. I go thru oil changes every time I go to a drift day at the track so I'm trying to keep my expenses low. Thank you!
Andrew can you do a video of making 600hp from rb25
Awesome content as usual. Thanks Andrew! 👌🏼
Awesome I seriously take your advice & information.
Which pump fuel brand gives less knock on motors.
I heard BP wasn’t that good surprisingly.
Probably shell or sunoco
Shell is many performance shops go to pump in Europe and the States so I assume its good here.
Question. In store I can only find LIQUI MOLY SAE 10W-60 full synthetic. Is there any reason I shouldn’t use this brand in my R32 GT-R?
Does e85 thin out the oil over time? Was told to use 20w60 to account for thinning of oil being contaminated by e85? For a neo rb25
Millers oils 10w60 in my r34 gtr and r35 gtr ❤
Doesnt it need to be ester based oil as well?
i feel the need to add two important facts to choosing the right oil.... while the video is factually correct, it doesn't tell everything. a lower first number increases the speed at which the oil is capable of reaching all critical parts in an engine if it sat for a longer time or if you did an oilchange which can reduce dry lubrication and early wear. the second number is also telling about the temperature at which the oil starts to boil. the rb26 can easily reach 110° celsius with just regular cruising. if you thrash it a -40 oil can start to boil. if you plan on driving your rb powered engine as it should be, the oil should be at least -50 or as the video mentioned.... -60
@motivegarage How much does this translate over to a 2JZ in your opinion? I'm thinking it's pretty relative. Just not sure about the oil pressure numbers.
I put 10w - 60 in my r34 GTT and it ran like an absolute slug so bad I changed to 10w - 30 2 weeks later massive difference all my hp back I wonder why?
Doesn't sound like an engine oil problem
@@Datsem who knows my car never ran bad ever till I put that oil in I've owned my skyline for 15 years I know when it's running good or not and it didn't like 10w-60
Hey mate, would the 10w-60 be appropriate for a higher kms stock rb25det or is the higher viscosity specific for built engines being pushed
Any RB
Good info.
Which oil pump do you recommend at the moment for a 80% street car running only 500hp? Will be refreshing my engine before it goes back in my S30 after sitting for a couple of years. Always ran a nismo, had great oil pressure and no problems. But its really not an area I want to skimp on. So if its best to change to an alternative I will, could just be cheap insurance.
Billet gears in stock pump with a collar. Keep rev limit under 8k
what oil pump is better: Jun, Tomei, HKS, Nitto? how to buy NITTO oil pump?
What do you think should be used in a JZ engine? I use penrite 10w-50
Penrite in my 1j aswell, heard good things about Shell ultra from BMW guys who are obsessed about oil due to their bearing issues so might try it in Future.
I bought Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil SAE60 it is not 10-60. I'm in the Caribbean. Will this work well for me?
According to your video its fine but still wanted to ask. TY!
Would you recommend this weight for stockish rb20s 1jz that get thrashed on?
Even in a non turbo rb25de you should use 10w-60?
Is there a limit as to what you shouldn't let the pressure go past?
Anything over 140psi and you'll most likely start blowing out front or rear main seals. I have a rb and jz car and I typically run 125 psi oil @wot but they're known to literally blow out the front main seals once it's starts getting higher than that unless you're doing a dry sump configuration
My stock oil pump could never... or could it? (RB25)
You think vr1 20w-50 would be good for Rb20det? I've ran that in all my k series and been awesome. But never in my rb. I feel like 5w-30 is too thin for rb20
I would think so but it depends a little bit on what your bearing clearances are. I use VR1 20w-50 Synthetic in my 4g63 but the engine is built with bearing clearances at about .0022 inches (about .001 more than typical stock). What are your RB20 bearing clearances?
The hotter it gets the thinner it will be. Sometimes even in summer you’ll have to go a thicker oil depending how hot it gets.
Thank you !!!
What if you don’t have a 700-1000 hp RB? What if you only have a 350 hp RB26 and live in Scandinavia and only drive in the summer?
10W-60
is liqui moly 10w60 a good choice?
A big mistake I see is that people will use competition oils like Motul Racing on their street car but don't realize its got none of the preservatives or detergents for street use which ends up hurting their motor also. Mainly though, don't be lazy people.... do your changes more often!
Used 10w 50 and cracked a block, couldit have been it was colder that day
Cracking a block has nothing to do with oil viscosity.
Any engine going to like 10w 60 it's just $70 - $100 a bottle. I get it for you guys who have spent big 💵 on a engine you want to protect your investment, but the rest of us plebs what can we settle on that will be fine because we're not making big power?
1060 is the only oil to use
So what about RB25? My wife has a R34 GTT, i've been putting 10-40 in hers.
Put 10W-60 in
RBs love oil pressure
Hey guys,
I normally uuse10w40 for oem tb25neo with bolts on
Would you recommend the 10w 60 for this application ?
Every single RB unless you live in the snow
@MotiveVideo I live in the Mediterranean, guess I'm swapping,
Do you recommend the castrol 10w 60 ?
Thank you so much,
Do you even reccomend 10W-60 for stock RB’s?
Going by the vid and Andrew's other replies, any rb
What would the recommendation be for an R35?
Castrol recommends the 10W-60 edge for them from memory
can you put a rb25 into a gtr?
Did you guys ever run a 15w 40?
No. 15W-40 is thick cold and thin hot. Worst possible combination for RB.
ive seen my rb peak at over 100 psi on 5w30 lol
I’ve been running my 3S-GTEs on 15w-50 in Texas for decades. Several engines, several Celicas and MR2s. Only one ever needed a rebuild but that was a week after I bought my first boost controller (I’ll let you puzzle that one on your own 🤣). The rest have hundreds of thousands of miles on original bottom ends. In fact, I’m worried about the condition of my spare crate engine. It’s been in it’s original shipping crate for IDK how long.
I'm assuming this also would carry over to SR20DET?. If not what is the best oil for an SR just curious on opinions.
From my experience with SRs I have always ran 15w40 rotella T6 with a puralator filter. Had a built SR making 400whp drifting, bashing limiter, and all of that non sense last 5 years with me until I sold it. That person ran it for 3 years before he sold it.
For an Sr20 something like Valvoline Farm Plus or any other oil designed for tractor engines will do.
I've been running 10w50 in my SR20DET for the last 100 000km. Stock engine and turbo with 240 000 km on the clock
@@Andy_Jee How many acres can you plough between oil changes?
@@Gooie69 get a good 200 acres between changes, 150 if its a bit hilly
I use 5w50
Should I use 10w60 as well in a Barra motor
10w40 is what I have come to the conclusion of
I use 10w60 in 580rwkw Barra , if stock probably go 40 weight
Should I switch to this oil in my fairly stock LS?
Please provide a timestamp for the part of the video where Andrew was talking about Chevrolet LS V8 engines?
@@ChristopherHallett I think you dont understand how mechanical devices work
What would your recommendations be for stock application rb25det neo
Same
@@MotiveVideo wow okay thanks for the reply. Been told by lots it’s too thick if my oil pressure is good already but I am in aus so might just switch to the 10w-60 currently running 10w-40
What is the best oil for a built sr22vet????
An LS swap! 😀
Motul oil 🎉 and btw.. thicker oil doesn’t lubricate better. Proven practice. Using a can of Advanced formula MOA by BG doesn’t hurt either.
Next argument will be "ok 10w60 but what brand?" 😂
No, Castrol or Nulon lol
RAVENOL RSS 10W60...THE BEST OIL IN THE WORLD
Keep trying to tell people this with vk56 in the y62
People out 5w30 in a 400hp 3t car thrashing around in dunes on 40+ degree days, or tow 3 ton with that oil, which is ridiculous.
The only reason 5w30 is recommended from Nissan is fuel economy
If you look in the manual for it, it shows the temp range like you show in this video.
My na Barra uses 5w 30 no problems ever.
@@rabidsminions2079 sick
I must be in the minority of RB owners... Mine saw a -4°F outdoor cold start a week or two ago.
Your wrong the 5w is minimum viscosity in the oil at 0° and the 30 is the minimum viscosity at 100°
It doesn't thicken up as it gets hot
@@DarrenBoxhall no it's thicker when cold. Multigrade oil is just that it has different viscosity oils in the blend.
Nulon FTW
Andrew, you know you've made it when you have spam accounts lol