The REAL Reason Why the RB26 Dominates - GTR RB26 Engine Restoration
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
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Speed Academy videos are solely for entertainment purposes. Never perform any modifications to your vehicle that will void your warranty or in any way violate your local road going laws. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk.
Like this comment if you saw the thumbnail and title watched the video then understood what our troll was 🍆💦
Yall trolling abt the shape of the water pump
Real men delete the engine driven water pump and go electric with cl temp Target pwm
ya got me, was ready to bring the keyboard warrior out of me 🤣
For two guys who film everything themselves, your audio and video is always really good. Underrated channel. Keep it up.
They really do deserve more views!
@@hydrolics5449 I think it's because they aren't that flashy and don't do click bait thumbnails and headlines. Or maybe because they're Canadian? 😂 But slow and steady wins the race in the end.
True
Moose helps film no?
Still agree though. Great videos!
agreed
speed academy: "we plan to rebuild this engine in one episode"
me before watching: "ooo sick i love 3 part episodes."
Just like their 5 day K swap video series. 10 days later........
Dave and Pete tearing down the RB, looks like archeologists in the lost ark finding never seen before treasures. This is amazing 👍 Keep up the good work!
Very smart by referencing Motive Garage. The Aussie definitely know what they’re doing with GTRs
Make sure you do the final torque on the crank bolt with the engine in the car, with it in 5th gear and applying the brakes, and do it before you ever turn the engine over. RB26 crank bolts have a really high torque spec and that is the only way to truly make sure it’s torqued to spec.
So they do that in the nissan plant???
@@argelioolivares631 probably not they probably had a special jig and machine to crank it as part of the engine assembly
Nobody cares. I'll knock it down with my 1/2 harbor freight impact. It won't come loose.
Changing the oil pump to a high volume item is likely to result in too much oil in the head. The symptoms will be the PCV system sucking in straight oil rather than mist and blowing large amounts of smoke. Most people then install an oil air separator which then just fills up after a couple of runs. I tried every bandaid fix including a rear head drain and scavenger pump. The only and best fix is to change the block to head restrictor to ~.9mm. This restrictor needs to be sized IAW the additional pump volume. The head being solid lifter type doesn’t need a huge volume of oil. I hope you don’t have an issue however if you do. Learn from my experience. :-)
I’m wondering why he would wouldn’t have enlarged the sump why it was off.
The whole procedure was throwing money at band aids.
Also fit breathers to front of rocker covers instead of the factory rear
@@ancientrenegade9243 I do love the barra,and have built many.
This is very important and very true
3 years with my 33 gtr and so far I changed crank, rebuilt it's oil pump with a reimax one, did valve adjustment on it, and a lot other things including changing intake paper gaskets for metal ones from hks. SUPER IMPORTANT!! Do NOT clean the itbs black buildup if you aren't going to reseal them with tomei itb throttle coat. Otherwise idle is going to be all over the place!!!
25:30 Check out the Motive Video Mythbusting the RB block against JZ block. That should answer all your strength questions.
Simple answer, JZ wins.
No jz has an oiling problem ha nissan should have gone back to the drawin board
@@reneeharewood5053 Nitto use a 2JZ style oil gear when they replace an RB oil pump. 👍
RB engines are very oil pressure sensitive, it's like their kryptonite. You're going to want a head drain, change the oil restrictors in the block, and enlarge the sump if you're using a high volume oil pump. You will end up with most of your oil in your catch can if left standard. Looking forward to seeing how you guys find the RB platform on the track!
One of the reasons I don’t understand why the vg30dett didn’t catch on. It’s the same cylinder head design as the RB just with more displacement, v6 configuration, and no oiling issues. Theirs literally unopened junkyard vg30de swaps doing 700whp. And the IMSA variant was banned since it kept winning lol.
@@TheOhsemix there's unopened f20c's doing 700wph lol
@@dan4age ok? Lol
@@dan4age yes but torque is what breaks engines your talking about an engine that’s know to produce really low torque numbers. A 700whp vg will be around +550tq at 4krpm a 700whp F20 is lucky to break 350tq at 4krpm .
@@TheOhsemix false numbers
My boys S2K made 830hp on 26lbs
536lbs of tq
Do head studs. You can replace one at a time and retain the factory paper gasket. Heads will start to lift around 550hp
+1 to this doing, head studs now are mine lifted :D
Great job guys! Just throwing this out there.... you should do a 3000gt vr4/Stealth TT next... you won't regret it! Awesome cars!
Really enjoy these vids! How they don’t have 1 million subscribers is beyond me…. True car people don’t need drama and phony stunts
You should have gotten some advice on this build. Its a very hodge-podge build.
- the high octane baffles are largely a copy of the OG mines rocker cover gaskets.
- you need to check valve clearances on rb's > the rb26 and rb25 neo are solid shim under bucket.
- when switching to a high volume pump such as a tomei or nitto, you need to increase the oil pan volume to around 9 litres. The high volume pumps can literally pump the sump dry and put it in the cylinder head in one stint down the main straight.
- to limit pumping the content of the sump into the head, and keeping it to the bearings where it is needed, you need to fit smaller oil restrictors in the block. At minimum the centre one will need to go down to 1.1mm as well as the rear one.
- if your new turbos are ball bearing, you will need to restrict the flow to them a little bit, they will get drowned in oil.
- replace the rubber turbo oil drain hoses. They are prone to seperating in the centre layer, and an air pocket builds. When this air heats up and expands, the inner layer blocks the oil drain and you get a lot of smoke.
- a rear cylinder head oil drain is highly recommended for drag and circuit use.
We did check clearances and they are a bit tight but nothing that I think will be detrimental.
Yes, trying to figure out a solution on either doing the sump or switching back to a N1 pump.
The head drain Im a bit iffy about, some say its needed while others dont so Im not sure About it considering this will be a street car 95% of the time.
2JZ is THE KING!! Nice video though guys, that RB26 is a great 6 cylinder, no doubt ;)
rb26 blocks are softer than rb30, jz blocks are the kings but RBs sound better
@@altruismfirst6489 They sound pretty good yeah but 1JZ sounds great too with it's slightly higher RPM howl than the 2JZ
The "hand-tighten then let sit then torque" procedure is to let the silicon cure forming a thick gasket that conforms to the mating surfaces, then when you torque it to spec, it won't be squeezed out from between the pan and the block, potentially forming large chunks that can break off and clog your oil pickup. Also, thinner silicon gasket is more prone to leaking.
+1 on this, which doesn't appear to be common knowledge.
I recently did a lot of work on a 2004 Grand Cherokee (4.7) including using silicone to seal up a rear differential, trans pan, and other things (including valve covers which are notorious for leaking). Following this procedure, not a drop of fluid anywhere leaks from that engine months later.
🤔 hmmm.... glad to be in before the JZ Fan Boys say that the title is wrong... should be Detonates instead of Dominates...🤣🤣🤣 Great content as usual though!
Nooooo! The rubber lip on the lower timing belt cover is applied by the factory and you're not meant to peel it off! Maybe try replicating it with a bead of Sikaflex? Will be tough to get it as consistent as the factory seal, best of luck.
Great decision to keep the 4.11 final drive. That willl make the car so much more fun to drive .
Also a good rule of thumb for an RB is: bigger pump needs a bigger sump.
Make sure you add a head drain back to the sump.
Make sure you put an oil restrictor in
Keep up the good work PT and DB. Love the content.
Such a great video of rebuilding the rb! Does seem like the 2jz simplicity is much easier overall.
Did you add silicone gasket maker under the front cam cap that holds the cam gasket. If not it will leak. High octane valve cover breather kit needs the smaller studs/bolts unlike what you have. Even the studs that hold the oem oil splash guard needs the shorter studs.
You guys should vapor blast the diff/oil pan, it just looks out of place with all the other blasted parts
Thumbs up. you guys are a top 10 channel for automotive content anywhere on any platform including TV (who even watches TV). Plus local content just down the 403/QEW is always good.
I used oil restrictor in the block deck back in the day with a high pressure low volume oil pump.... worked wonders... heard that engine still lives to this day.
Love that you went back to conventional format of B-roll with music. One of the many reasons this is a great channel
IF you had the engine so tore down, why not take the head off to do the valve stem seals and slap a new headgasket on there?
Hey guys! Love your videos. Thanks for doing the JDM legends series.
High flow oil pumps require extended sumps. Id look into a hi-octane sump or leask-spec sump extension and pull that pan back off.
High octane baffles are great!
If I remember correctly it's not so much the pump on the RB failing it's the pump slipping on the crank collar. Tho they do have the spinel drive kits for them now like the 2Jz.
The rb and 2j are way different in what timers use them for. 2jz is great for throwing diesel type boost number at reliably, but the rb26 is way better for throttle response and tracking. Both engines are amazing and I wish both companies continued with their inline 6 series, just imagine what they could be today. But the best engine is the 2j block with the 1j head don't @ me
If you put the effort into an RB26 build to make 1000HP into a 2JZ build, the 2JZ will easily out do the RB26. Even stock, the difference is in how they make power/torque. I would have a 2JZ any day over the RB, but definitely respect the RB
@@Nilezy yeah both engines are great, the 2j is just great for it's simplistic design making it able to handle much more power reliably, but the RB26 is great because of all of the advanced features it has making it a better track oriented engine, and it's a bit lighter too.
honestly i watched a shop from japan that deals with rb block an building engines the rb blocks are not as hard as the 2j blocks from the factory even the more expensive limited edition race blocks made by nismo are the same hardness as far as metal goes as the production cars the 2j blocks just can handle more power then compared to the rb when ur chasing after crazy horse power
PT, can you please get an oil accumulator as an extra layer of insurance. RB oil starvation issues are just that bad. They are not that expensive and a cheap extra layer of protection on the race track!
Not needed unless you run slicks on track regularly
@@luker3456 I would say it’s needed for any type of track use. Plus, why not when it’s a relatively cheap mod that can save your whole motor?
ruclips.net/video/u8K0w14NjcY/видео.html
@@jcdrives5124 trust me i have one and use it for track work its fine with a baffle and oil restrictor.
I have an oil pressure trip in the ecu which has only tripped once when the oil level got a bit low but otherwise good running on 265 cup 2 tyres with r35 brakes so not a slow setup.
Please please do a series on restoring the original RB to brand new. New hardaware, vapor blast and clean everything🙏
Seeing a jack stand under an RB hooked to an engine stand is such an understatement. Suckers are heavy!
I’m a RB head but to be honest 2JZ dominates on the streets/Drag/Drift community, now the RB are getting stronger but is because of what Billet parts allows us to do
The rb is actualy strong You dont need Much upgrade to make it fast just need a bit of tune not like the JZ need much upgrade and tune
You guys are really lucky, I have the newer 34 block in my R32 and still all the bolts were pretty corroded, every time we touch anything something strips. I have a spare HKS 1.2mm grommeted head gasket and ARP head studs if you want them btw. It seems like you're using mostly Tomei stuff tho, which are also great products. Also, not sure what your power goals are, but do recommend a harmonic damper if it's over 500. Kinda crazy seeing the issue with the Hypertune baffles considering their rep, but if you haven't already found a solution I use the MINE's baffles (or Hi-Octane's are the same design) with good success thus far.
Much love for this build series!
skip the baffles in the valve cover, get a head drain. a Head drain actually fixes the problem instead of masking in like those baffles.
this engine is going to go boom. gotta pull the head and make sure the block isn't cracked, do arp headstuds, and install the proper restrictor into the block for the tomei oil pump, otherwise you're going to have oil pooling in the head on the track.
hell yes
One of the best car channels on RUclips...been following you since the beginning ...😍 You are one of the channels that inspired me to make my own channel which is the biggest car channel in Greece 😍
NZ wiring kit was the best thing I ever did to mine
The rubber on the timing cover is made as part of the manufacturing process & by peeling it off you might have just ruined the cover. Would’ve been better off leaving it alone. Hopefully you can fix w/ some edge protector idk
As an RB26 owner… nah. Imagine having to worry about oil pump shattering itself
I highly recommend installing 350z exhaust manifold studs in the head because they are rated for much higher tensile strength. The RB studs will snap on you even after a couple heat cycles. Also the nuts on the turbo outlets for some reason always come loose, I kept losing them on my rb25 until I started using nord-lock washers. Those gaskets on the timing cover come preinstalled with the covers.
Love watching your videos, make sure you apply a thin layer of silicon on the front cam caps where they mate the head or else they will leak oil out. Also with the oil pump being higher volume you definitely need to fit a head drain and oil restrictors in the head as these are prone for oil problems. Love how you guys are learning about rb engines and jz though
You need a head drain, baffles alone won't prevent the head from filling up with oil. They're cheap and easy to install.
Those rubber trapdoors are actually pretty common amongst higher end oil pans that have baffles in them. Definitely a good thing to have.
Your content and production quality is better than stuff on tv, great stuff
They all r200 diffs bro. Same as the 350/370z. Should be easy swap for you guys!! Thanks for the content!!!!!!!!!
The permatex ultra grey is the closest thing to Honda bond in the industry
The front turbo condition is likely from the PCV system
PCV goes directly to the rear turbo inlet rubber pipe.
What amazes me is how you guys stay clean while working on these car's 🤣👌👌🙆♂️
Ahh parts availability with the 2JZ does it for me!
Keep rockin boys. All your content is amazing. I’m always excited at every new video!
finally got a 4k monitor, glad to be able to watch the vids in all their glory
You can adjust max oil pressure on RB and SR oil pumps by adding washers as shims to preload the relief valve spring more.
Lol. WTF.
It's a rubber seal. For the lower timing cover. Earlier dsms carried one similar
The real reason why Nissan are the MVP over toyota in this instance is that to compete in racing in the 90's you had a miximum engine displacement of 4 litres. But, if you had forced induction you had to use a multiplier of 1.6 meaning the maximum capacity was just under 2.6 litres with a turbo. Which is why Nissan chose 2.6 litres.. Toyota couldnt compete in racing with the 2jz so instead had to use a 3SGTE derived engine instead.
So toyota tried a 2litre engine at 800 whp with their 3sgte in their supra an came up on top ....racing is a head thing...
One oiling system issue you might want to look into, is that rb's not only suffer the problems you addressed, but the fact that oil builds up because the oil drains aren't enough when you start supplying them with more oil, and it starves the engine. Some people put in restrictors to the feeds for the head and that solves the issue
Fitting a tomei oil pump with a standard size sump is going to end in tears...
A little explanation would be helpful with a comment like that.
@@speedacademy you fitted a much higher flowing oil pump which is going to empty the small standard sump causing loss of oil pressure. You need to enlarge the sump and fit an oil restrictor into the block to run any high flowing oil pump safely 👍
when i did the valve lapping and head refresh on my 4age i did it all with a deep impact socket. really wished i had that lisle tool
Can't go wrong with Tomei parts, specially the Oil Pump upgrade. 😍😍😍
BTW, not to stir the pot but you may want to check Motive video review of 2jz vs. RB block measurements, quite insighful and interesting
Yeah for real! They really covered it and gave the data on why one can be pushed further. From a pro shop that blueprints record holding racing engines
Yes have watched that one. We all know the 2J is the better engine for big power but it never hurts to banter about it
Rb was purpose built for group A racing. Was going to be a 2.4L in the early designs, but it’s built to make around the 500ish HP range. Different design Philosophy to the 2JZ
Don't RBs also have a huge oil drain problem? I'm certain I've seen other add a drain to the back of the head due to the drains in the head being to restrictive.
Only the first gen rb26 has oil issues.
@@Peongster From what I understand the oil returns are the issue and its a common problem with all RB blocks doesn't matter the gen. Last thing I would want is a high flow pump to overload the drain and cause cavitation and eventual ruin the engine. Motive has a video on this.
@@cielosnegro Coming from the guy thats never had any, keep watching vids keyboard king
@@sircefiro That's quite the assumption, It's a shame your dead wrong.
@@cielosnegro You say you've had many rbs then say don't they have an oil drain problem? Wouldn't you know something from the many you've had?
Then say from what I understand bla bla keyboard king
keep an eye on how much oil is coming out of your breathers, having had a few RB engines, the high flow oil pumps make their love of pumping all their oil into the head and out the breathers worse. they have much smaller and fewer drains from the head back to the block and if you have modest blowby the pressure coming back to the head can interfere with the oil draining. you might want to look at the kits for the oil drain/breather that goes into the back of the head in place of a freeze plug.
I've never heard of anyone using Honda bond before, I've always used The Right Stuff, you can assemble and put oil in right way, no waiting and no weird tightening procedure.
Any plans on doing a 2022 brz/gr86 build?
Pete!! Dave admitted you would be ahead of him in the Skyline. He is relying on you blowing up so he can pass you!
Boys your cinematography and editing of your videos it is top notch!
WhistlinDiesel had some Tomei cams in his GTR R32 I believe. He had experience with the cam breaking.
It isn't even have to proper or improper install. He took it to a proper shop, who tore it down.
He was able to break the camshaft with his hands. Hitting two pieces together, breaking it over, over, over, and over again.
I personally, have never in my life, big block chevy, small block chevy, Mitsubishi 3.8 in eclipse, chevy cruze, chevy 4.3, 351w ford, ever been able to break a stock camshaft by hitting shit with it. Ever.
As a kid, I would take the old stock cams and use them as little bats, or as pry bars for different stuff. Never in my life has one ever broke on me.
I was astonished, that he was able to break the cam as much as he did, without using a whole hell of a lot of effort.
It's worth a watch, and it's worth the thought of issues to come.
high flow pump means you need oil restrictors going to the head and you should put a rear head drain on as well
Don't forget to add rb billet bracket to prevent block twist,you can ask ausie tuner why you need one for your rb
Hypertune and PRP in Australia 👌🏻
There are JZ swap kits for Skylines but no RB swap kits for Supras, that says plenty as to why the JZ is KING!
Interesting what he was saying about the RTV for the oil pan. I was under the impression that it's standard procedure for all RTV silicones to let them sit for a while before torquing down to spec
Well, for me it’s simply because of the records and championships the skyline Gtr, and the fact that it’s very versatile, can do both straights and circuit. The Supra, it has the edge over displacement (3.0 vs 2.6) but it literally only likes straight lines, and can only dream of the trophies the Gtr has.
This is also the case in their home land-Japan why the Gtr is like their national sportscar.
The oil pump cover, timing cams, and center coil pack covers all have silicone that was done from the factory. It's impossible to lay a bead down as nice as they did. I've had issues on mine and just did the best I could...
I'd love to hear if you guys find a good way of redoing the bead. Maybe someone you guys know in the industry has a trick they could share.
No one?
I have an r32 gtr but am still an rb noob. I'm probably pulling and refreshing my motor this winter actually. I thought when you went to an aftermarket oil pump that you need to restrict oil going to the head to avoid flooding the head and starving the bottom end. Is that not right?
Yeah since he has a higher flowing oil pump he should have put oil restrictor in The block and put a head drain on too
You are correct, unless you can find a genuine N1 pump, they are just a higher psi, the reimax is higher psi and volume like PRP, Jun, Tomei, Greddy.
Also the PRP and Tomei are easier to adjust the pressure on where the Jun, Greddy and Reimax not as much.
Make sure you put RTV on those front cam caps where they meet the head!
I don’t mind a commercial or two when watching but 6-7 in a 33 minute video is insanity
You have to put rear head drain on that rb and you should have run a nitto oil pump
You guys are awesome
33 minutes just flew by!
well done
New to watching and trying to catch up on build, love the content
Oil passages from block to head is the way you control excess oil flow into the head. Tomei have a product to do this. Just a simple restrictor, various sizes, determined by your oil pump size and intended driving application.
yo make your own baffles! You guys are good with wrenches and handy it isnt too tricky!
Rb oil pumps only fail because of over reving the engine my stock oil pump did a 105000 miles and was still ok when I stripped the engine and it got a hard time every time the car left the driveway the head gasket failed before the oil pump
And some don't understand the rb26 in road going cars and the legendary race cars are completely different. The group A cars oiling systems had accusump, billet oil pump gears and enlarged sumps for motorsports abuse. Not to mention the steel turbo wheels and dog boxes with shorter gears which really made these things accelerate in race trim.
Nice work guys, keep up the great work with these two cars.
Dont clean your throttlebodies with brake cleaner or somthing simmilar, just warm soaped water. You will end up with boost leakage and idle issues. There is a coating on the throttle butterflies, you have to keep it. Do not remove it
The carbon build up on the front turbo seems to occure, because of the recirculating valves/ BOV return pipe is just conected to the front turbo.
I don't know if it's right or not, but I would've treated the exhaust like an intake manifold port job. Port the exhaust manifold AND the exhaust housing of the turbo to match the bigger gasket size.
I didnt want to mess with the stock housings on the turbos only because Im trying to test how these turbos perform out of the box
So nice to learn stuff about those jdm legend engine! love those video
Goals for my videos, attention to detail. Always superb.
never too many RBs!
Woah that intake manifold. Can't wait
Cars,Cars,Cars, gotta love them
He's to hoping I have my own RB26 one day. But it's not an engine known by a lot of people, especially in places that aren't near specialized shops or knowing people who can help learning the nuances.
This episode left me "baffled"
Those itbs are dope
2J definitely beats RB in the way that you use OEM parts. Such as their head gaskets, oil pumps, etc. RB still has more soul
yea i view the RB is being more athletic and a tad more character.
wow, im really surprised about those hypertune baffles not fitting. Here is aus hypertune products are known for there high quality and on par with plazmaman items.
Not sure if you have already ordered one, but fitting a head drain on the back of the head will help a lot with the drain issues