I've watched this video at least a dozen times while I go through the rebuild of my 3.03 that came out of an '82 Ford F-150. One unfortunate thing I encountered was my set screws were stripped (as you mentioned could be a headache in the video.) I picked up new ones from a bolt and screw store nearby and just need to get the ends tapered before putting them in. So far everything has been relatively straight forward thanks to this wonderful video. Only headache has been the snap rings. I ended up cutting off three of them with a dremel.
Your daughter is Too Cute! Glad to be able to help. These are know where near as hard to rebuild as people think. Just take your time and don't force anything. It should just go together. If it takes force, something is wrong. The Ford Econoline service manuals are a real good source for the procedure. Great illustrations too.
By any chance did you see anything in this vid that would be the culprit to the issues I've been having? Technically you were a big help but mostly thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle this.
Also when ordering a kit, at least on Rock Auto you need to know if the 3 brass “blockers” are all the same size or if the rear one is bigger. On my ‘65-6 Fairlane trans the rear one was bigger. They call it a T-150/160.
These are wonderful little transmissions. Simple enough to rebuild in a couple hours, light enough to install and remove alone, cheap enough to tear it up and buy another just like it for $100. I run one in a modified Galaxie with a hurst shifter. Mine likes to pop out of gear when engine braking in reverse and 2nd because of a huge shift lever. They pair well behind 300 sixes, 390 FEs, and several other motors. I've thought about hooking one up to a pulley to run a sawmill with. It is a great little machine to have sitting in a corner in case of emergency. I keep an extra two in my garage in case I blow up the Galaxie's.
Thanks. I really appreciate the time that you took to speak to this issue. Not having a step by step process. The reality of how hard certain things can be. Those darn snap rings 😅
After I posted it I realized I didn't show how to change the shift fork out rings. Mine have never leaked so I've never some it. (Some steps skipped sorry)
Thank you! That was so helpful as I rebuild mine. I have a RAT 3.03 so my input shaft goes in through the top. Most of my time has been getting bearings on and off the shafts :)
Great video! I have finished rebuilding my 3.03 top loader out of my 68 mustang from watching your tutorial. I have a few more tools, hydraulic press was a great helper to remove and install bearings. I also cut a length of 1/2 inch pvc conduit to use for holding the roller bearings during reinstallation. 😊Thanks for creating this
Wow this looks super easy I’m definitely gonna be refreshing mine in the coming weeks, I think cleaning all my parts will take the longest lol. Thanks for the tutorial
YOOOO! Long time Kansai Rider! Hope things are good for you! You’re kid is getting so big! I see you’re going for the long hair this time. First short now long eh? Great video as usual and keep up the good work my dude!
Yo! Nice to see you. Yeah the demo for this video was pretty narrow lol probably a lot of confused people when this popped up in their subs. Was quite enjoyable making it though, it makes me remember why I used to make so many videos before. If you have insta you should follow me there under the same name I post more frequently there about what I'm up to. 👌
What a great dude, these trannies aren’t the most fun to take apart and yet he does it just to make a video to help people ❤ IMMENSELY helpful!! I would only add that you should take the front shift fork and rod out because then you can replace the O ring on the shifter “stub” thing. You can turn the shaft 90° so the detent ball won’t hang up on the cutout in the shaft and then it will come out the front. That makes getting the main shaft and gears much easier to get back in too. Also the bottom 2-gear set is super easy to get out, the shaft taps out from the inside with a long punch angled in, pushing it out the rear, then you can really clean out the case easily as it’s truly gutted then. Oh and do this job on a boot tray, it’ll catch all the needle bearings etc that fall out! Thanks so much ❤
Happy new year man. Anything from you on this channel makes it a good day. Can't get enough of you and Lisa on Instagram, And your new dog Timber is adorable too!!
@@KansaiRiderJapan thanks again, I really needed to come back here and mention that you saved our project because you showed that the front shift fork didn't need to be removed. We broke off an Allen key in the set screw on that one ( We chuckled when we saw your part in the video about having a bad time if we used the rounded tip Allen keys. We had a bad time, as that's exactly what we used) Despite not being able to remove that set screw, we were able to remove the entire main shaft, disassemble, clean, put new parts in, and reassemble. We had to put the front dogs in after getting the main shaft back in, in order to have enough clearance, but your video really helped us out a lot and have us the confidence to forge ahead.
@@KeggerN7 you got lucky as far as the timing of this goes. For a transmission as old as as popular as the 3.03 is I'm surprised there weren't any better videos or resources for it. To be what? 65 years after it was made and to catch a rebuild video when you need it within a month of it being posted!? You've got good timing.👍
Excelente información mi estimado, me sirvio de mucho para cambiar todo el engranaje de una 3.03 de falcon con mainshaft largo al de la econoline mainshaft corto y utilizar el mismo maincase de falcon y hacer mas corta mi transmisión!!!, gracias!!!
While we're beating the he// out of our shaft and gears, instead of using a screw driver, just get a cole chisel and make sure to scar it up good and proper
great video! I have problem with 3 gear, it pop off by braking by engine. I've got hurst shifer, Anyone can tell me if there is a problem with sychronisers or it is just a spring and plug? or something else? thnx!!!!
If it makes you feel better, that was NOT a snap ring, it's a retainer ring and those "snap ring plyers" are useless because they're not made to remove a retainer
@kansairiderjapan, I noticed at around 52:50 after you were moving the forks to test the assembly, the input shaft slid out a bit and you pushed it back in. Is that normal? Mine was doing the same and I was thinking I didn’t have something seated correctly. Does the housing hold that shaft in place? 52:50
If I remember correctly I think the only thing keeping that front bearing from moving forward is that round 4 bolt retainer. It's ok if the input shaft moves forward and you move it back as long as you didn't drop any needle bearings / synchro dogs in the process.
@@KansaiRiderJapanthanks for the quick reply. Just got back in from the garage. Turned out one of the fat needle bearings had gotten dislodged so I had to drop the counter shaft and pull the input shaft and repack them. All is good now!
So what holds your speedometer gear from moving? The ball bearing keeps it from turning but what holds it from sliding forward and backwards? Hint: You are missing the clip.
I'm not sure this is correct. I've had two of these apart and none of them had a clip there. I think the bearing limits the forward movement and the housing limits the rear movement. I'm having another sent to me so I will check the new one when it gets here.
Im sorry to ask, but i rebuilt a '65 failane tranny, probably didnt need it. Did just as you did. However, now, with the plugs between the shift rods, the gears wont move. Take the plugs out and everything is fine. Put them back in, nothing moves. What's wrong? Thanks
Do you have a link to the rebuild kit? I can't seem to find one that comes with new synchros. 3.03 HEG Top loader '66 F100 if it matters. I really appreciate your video and help.
There is a seal on the output shaft bearing retainer but I am not about to take my transmission apart again to make that video. It's pretty self explanatory just make sure you have the right size. Good luck!
![[Special Clip] ATEEZ(에이티즈) 홍중 'Why Do You Love'](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I6XYXQKN_pY/mqdefault.jpg)
I've watched this video at least a dozen times while I go through the rebuild of my 3.03 that came out of an '82 Ford F-150. One unfortunate thing I encountered was my set screws were stripped (as you mentioned could be a headache in the video.) I picked up new ones from a bolt and screw store nearby and just need to get the ends tapered before putting them in.
So far everything has been relatively straight forward thanks to this wonderful video. Only headache has been the snap rings. I ended up cutting off three of them with a dremel.
Award for most wholesome transmission rebuild goes to… lol
Your daughter is Too Cute! Glad to be able to help. These are know where near as hard to rebuild as people think. Just take your time and don't force anything. It should just go together. If it takes force, something is wrong. The Ford Econoline service manuals are a real good source for the procedure. Great illustrations too.
By any chance did you see anything in this vid that would be the culprit to the issues I've been having?
Technically you were a big help but mostly thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle this.
I wish this video was around when I did mine fifteen years ago. The best I had back then was a CD with tear down of a 4 speed. This is fantastic!
Also when ordering a kit, at least on Rock Auto you need to know if the 3 brass “blockers” are all the same size or if the rear one is bigger. On my ‘65-6 Fairlane trans the rear one was bigger. They call it a T-150/160.
These are wonderful little transmissions. Simple enough to rebuild in a couple hours, light enough to install and remove alone, cheap enough to tear it up and buy another just like it for $100.
I run one in a modified Galaxie with a hurst shifter. Mine likes to pop out of gear when engine braking in reverse and 2nd because of a huge shift lever. They pair well behind 300 sixes, 390 FEs, and several other motors.
I've thought about hooking one up to a pulley to run a sawmill with. It is a great little machine to have sitting in a corner in case of emergency. I keep an extra two in my garage in case I blow up the Galaxie's.
Thanks. I really appreciate the time that you took to speak to this issue. Not having a step by step process. The reality of how hard certain things can be. Those darn snap rings 😅
You are right. Nobody shows every step. Thank to You, and your mentor Duane.
After I posted it I realized I didn't show how to change the shift fork out rings. Mine have never leaked so I've never some it. (Some steps skipped sorry)
Thank you! That was so helpful as I rebuild mine. I have a RAT 3.03 so my input shaft goes in through the top. Most of my time has been getting bearings on and off the shafts :)
Great video! I have finished rebuilding my 3.03 top loader out of my 68 mustang from watching your tutorial. I have a few more tools, hydraulic press was a great helper to remove and install bearings. I also cut a length of 1/2 inch pvc conduit to use for holding the roller bearings during reinstallation. 😊Thanks for creating this
Thanks Duane! I don't even own a 3.03 but this was entertaining to watch. The parts where you sped up the hammering were oddly satisfying for me.
Thank you so much for the video! I am going to tackle my 77 F100 Ranger trans this weekend!
My very first rig was a 76 f-100 explorer. Good luck!
Thank you for taking the time to make this vid!! I’m fixing to tackle this
Wow this looks super easy I’m definitely gonna be refreshing mine in the coming weeks, I think cleaning all my parts will take the longest lol. Thanks for the tutorial
Thank you, huge help when I rebuilt mine.
YOOOO! Long time Kansai Rider! Hope things are good for you! You’re kid is getting so big! I see you’re going for the long hair this time. First short now long eh? Great video as usual and keep up the good work my dude!
Yo! Nice to see you. Yeah the demo for this video was pretty narrow lol probably a lot of confused people when this popped up in their subs. Was quite enjoyable making it though, it makes me remember why I used to make so many videos before.
If you have insta you should follow me there under the same name I post more frequently there about what I'm up to.
👌
What a great dude, these trannies aren’t the most fun to take apart and yet he does it just to make a video to help people ❤ IMMENSELY helpful!!
I would only add that you should take the front shift fork and rod out because then you can replace the O ring on the shifter “stub” thing. You can turn the shaft 90° so the detent ball won’t hang up on the cutout in the shaft and then it will come out the front. That makes getting the main shaft and gears much easier to get back in too.
Also the bottom 2-gear set is super easy to get out, the shaft taps out from the inside with a long punch angled in, pushing it out the rear, then you can really clean out the case easily as it’s truly gutted then.
Oh and do this job on a boot tray, it’ll catch all the needle bearings etc that fall out! Thanks so much ❤
Seeing your comment about shifting it 90 degrees helped me get past that puzzle!
Good to hear!@@johnnysbug
Happy new year man. Anything from you on this channel makes it a good day. Can't get enough of you and Lisa on Instagram, And your new dog Timber is adorable too!!
thanks for the great tutorial. thank you and Duane.
Excellent video I'm going to have to rebuild mine now.
Thank you and Duane! This is a great video and exactly what I was looking for while working on my own 3.03.
It gets easier after the 10th time lol
Good luck!
@@KansaiRiderJapan thanks again, I really needed to come back here and mention that you saved our project because you showed that the front shift fork didn't need to be removed. We broke off an Allen key in the set screw on that one ( We chuckled when we saw your part in the video about having a bad time if we used the rounded tip Allen keys. We had a bad time, as that's exactly what we used) Despite not being able to remove that set screw, we were able to remove the entire main shaft, disassemble, clean, put new parts in, and reassemble. We had to put the front dogs in after getting the main shaft back in, in order to have enough clearance, but your video really helped us out a lot and have us the confidence to forge ahead.
@@KeggerN7 you got lucky as far as the timing of this goes. For a transmission as old as as popular as the 3.03 is I'm surprised there weren't any better videos or resources for it. To be what? 65 years after it was made and to catch a rebuild video when you need it within a month of it being posted!? You've got good timing.👍
Excelente información mi estimado, me sirvio de mucho para cambiar todo el engranaje de una 3.03 de falcon con mainshaft largo al de la econoline mainshaft corto y utilizar el mismo maincase de falcon y hacer mas corta mi transmisión!!!, gracias!!!
This will be the funkiest van in Japan. You should go full 80's style with it.
Great video! Very helpful
While we're beating the he// out of our shaft and gears, instead of using a screw driver, just get a cole chisel and make sure to scar it up good and proper
I have a rat g1 tranny awesome video but I can’t find the deals I need for the g1 it leaks right now
great video! I have problem with 3 gear, it pop off by braking by engine. I've got hurst shifer, Anyone can tell me if there is a problem with sychronisers or it is just a spring and plug? or something else? thnx!!!!
If it makes you feel better, that was NOT a snap ring, it's a retainer ring and those "snap ring plyers" are useless because they're not made to remove a retainer
Where are we getting rebuild kits.. lol
Forgot your last snap ring.
Time stamp?
@kansairiderjapan, I noticed at around 52:50 after you were moving the forks to test the assembly, the input shaft slid out a bit and you pushed it back in. Is that normal? Mine was doing the same and I was thinking I didn’t have something seated correctly. Does the housing hold that shaft in place? 52:50
If I remember correctly I think the only thing keeping that front bearing from moving forward is that round 4 bolt retainer. It's ok if the input shaft moves forward and you move it back as long as you didn't drop any needle bearings / synchro dogs in the process.
@@KansaiRiderJapanthanks for the quick reply. Just got back in from the garage. Turned out one of the fat needle bearings had gotten dislodged so I had to drop the counter shaft and pull the input shaft and repack them. All is good now!
So what holds your speedometer gear from moving? The ball bearing keeps it from turning but what holds it from sliding forward and backwards? Hint: You are missing the clip.
I'm not sure this is correct. I've had two of these apart and none of them had a clip there. I think the bearing limits the forward movement and the housing limits the rear movement.
I'm having another sent to me so I will check the new one when it gets here.
@@KansaiRiderJapan Let me know when you get the other one. Maybe the 3-Speeds don't have that but the 4-Speeds do have a clip.
Im sorry to ask, but i rebuilt a '65 failane tranny, probably didnt need it. Did just as you did. However, now, with the plugs between the shift rods, the gears wont move. Take the plugs out and everything is fine. Put them back in, nothing moves. What's wrong? Thanks
@joschawil the gears or the shifters? I had a 3.03 that also had the shifters lock up but it was known problem before I ever opened it up.
The shifters won't move by hand. Not back in the car. Won't move with the plug in. The levers won't move.
Could u do video on how you strap your luggage on your cbr1000 THnx
Sorry I sold that bike years ago 😭
what output shaft seal did you use? im trying to replace my 3.03 toploader seal due to a leak
I can't recall sorry. A friend sent me a supplemental seal because he knew the one I got in the bronco kit was not going to work.
Do you have a link to the rebuild kit? I can't seem to find one that comes with new synchros. 3.03 HEG Top loader '66 F100 if it matters. I really appreciate your video and help.
tomsoffroad.com/ford/66-77-bronco-3-speed-transmission-rat-ran-hef
The seals may be the wrong size. They were when I did mine. The rest all worked👌
@@KansaiRiderJapan Thank you
I need to know is there a seal that goes in the front bearing retainer/shaft. If so can you show how to replace.
There is a seal on the output shaft bearing retainer but I am not about to take my transmission apart again to make that video. It's pretty self explanatory just make sure you have the right size. Good luck!
Hello. Is kansai moto tours still in business? Would love to check it out when I visit Japan. I clicked on the main website but it wasn't working.
Sorry I no longer have time to do tours anymore.