Yesterday my ABS light(s) came on my 2016 RAM truck's dash as I was driving out of the driveway. I took it to my local Dodge RAM dealer. They said the ABS Module had an internal failure. The diagnostic charge was $ 160.00 and the module was about $ 1,400.00. They said it would take about a month to get it in as they only use genuine Mopar parts. My truck is 7 years old with 32,400 miles on it. I purchased the Mo Par Max Care unlimited warranty which covers every thing (5,000) parts. The mileage limitation was 1,000,000 miles. You may say I have a lifetime warranty. That was the best thing I could have done was buy that warranty for my truck and my wife's car. Dodge does not offer that any more. All I have to pay is $ 100 deductible and I'm back on the road.
Bruh, I'm getting a new abs module as mines is faulty and I almost crashed about 2 weeks ago as my brakes locked up on me and it spone the vehicle around 180 degrees. Thankfully no other vehicle was around and I didn't fly off the road.
1998 Ford E350, 4 wheel ABS. When stopping pedal will not travel unless you press it hard brakes finally work then the BS light comes on and brakes work normally afterwards. Shutting off and restart it does it again. Pulled the ABS maxi fuse in the engine compartment. Lights stays on but the brakes work with no ABS. Also a brake fluid loss no leaks anywhere. Rotors, calipers, master cylinder, vacuum booster,hoses , hard lines and wheel speed sensors all have been replaced. The ABS can not be read thru the OBD-2 port. Seperate port for ABS 1996 to 98 E series. The ABS electronic control checks out. Swapped the controller from my 97 E350 to the 98 same problem and the ABS works on the 97.
My steering wheel started shaking today. Last time the garagist said I need to look out for the ABS system, it might need replacement. I am not at ease at all. I wonder if it's the oil, the wheels, or the ABS system. Why are cars like this and why do I still own one?
my car is a4b5 quattro. My problem started when I lifted it on the jack and started the wheels then they locked. When I put it down I couldn't start it until I released the pressure. After that, as soon as I press the pedal twice, it blocks again. abs can be heard buzzing. What is the problem?
Warning lights: Check your dashboard for illuminated ABS or other warning lights, which can indicate a problem with the ABS system and potentially prevent the car from starting - which is exactly my problem with my 2013 Ford Transit Connect
Good info. I have a bad module abs is disabled but its on a 1996 chrysler car and parts are hard to find what is a guy to do now without costing more than whats the cars worth resale
Hello, the brake discs in my car are constantly warping. I have changed 3 sets of brake discs and they are all the same. Could this be due to the ABS module?
Your back brakes are not working and putting all the work on your fronts. I have the same issue. It could be your brake check valve or master cylinder im getting into this problem myself
Hi bro I have a 2012 ranger Just disconnected the negative terminal and connected Now engine abs traction lights on And the car turns on but won’t move Any idea ??
I fucking laughed when he said engine compartment fire, yeah sure it can cause fire, but if you hadn't figured theres something wrong when your car is on fire, man you must be ghost rider or something
I've had mine diagnosed, the tester said it's a short on the front right sensor and a fuse / relay fail but I've checked all the fuses and can't find any abs relays
I've replaced almost evereything in the braking system except for the ABS pump. The car's brake peddle is still spongey even after air bleeing the system, could the ABS module be the reason for this?? Note that there are NO ABS codes or lights.
If you can hear the pump motor running, probably not. Ford dealerships are ripping off thousands of customers just throwing parts at this problem and not making a permanent fix. If the Transportation geniuses in Washington actually owned a car or knew anything about them there would be a safety recall. Ford has to know what the fix is but, when they are making this much money.......why help anyone. If you can't sell cars, sell parts!
I am going through the same problem, spongy brakes. Replaced many things except the abs module, and replaced the entire brake fluid. I suspect the abs module is sucking air somehow, because in one of the brake line which goes from master cylinder to abs module keep getting air even after I bleed it. So my next step is to physically bypass abs module (just for testing purpose). I have removed the abs module and now re-plumbing the lines directly from master cylinder to the brakes. By the way my car is Toyota Camry 2005 Japan build. The abs module looks sealed, no way to open without damaging it.
@@someone1089 can't you figure out from where the air enters the line? I mean there's pressure, hence there'll be at least a leak if not air entering the lines.
@@TheKhwailed Thats the interesting part about this issue. There is no leak anywhere that I can see. I am not loosing fluid at all. ABS module have tiny air passages to pull air in dynamically depending on the situation. I think in my module, perhaps one or more of those passage is stuck open. There is some rust and lots of salt deposits on the module, so I am just guessing this is causing the air to suck in. Beside this what could it be? I have replaced my already working master cylinder with a new one. I doubt if brake booster has anything to do with soft pedal. Not many options left, but I will continue the search.
@@someone1089 I had and still have a hissing sound coming from the brake booster even after replacing it, but I also don't think that the booster has something to do with the spongy peddle. I'm not at home right now, but when I go, I'll try to air bleed the ABS module. I'm seriously running out of possibilities after working on the ABS module!
1:47 Yes! it is possible that all the electrical components will work ( pump motor, and solinoids) but the valves may stick due to contaminated fluid. Therefore causing either locked brakes or no brakes on one wheel or on several or all. And may not give a warning or code.
@@dougsanders6034 In that cause you just mentioned do I have to change my ABS module? I have one wheel that is not breaking and someone said I need to replace it because it is not sending fluid to that wheel? is there any other solution?
my ABS code error reads rear wheel sensor faulty signal on my 2007 volvo s40. but nothing related to ABD module, that could be just replacing the wheel sensors?
Yes please don't replace the abs module. It could be the abs sensor or at times the wheel hub assembly. Make sure to look for torn wires/corrosion on the connectors for the abs sensor as this can cause it as well.
Need help to fix my abs light on chev sonic 1.4. Only when start up my brakes jumping with no abs light but drive afew meters the light kicks on and jumping
So I have a 2019 Jetta and I’ve replaced my entire harness and the sensor and it’s still not fixed and now I have an epc code and car is in limp mode on top of all the previous lights
My wheels locked up recently causing an accident. I was going about 20 to 25 mph. Can the ABS be going out without having an ABS light coming on? When I first bought the car you could feel the ABS working with the rhythmic pulse felt in the brake pedal. That rhythmic pulse is no longer felt in the pedal and the breaks have had a lock up. The brake pads look good and I just replaced the 5 year old tires but I am still wondering if the ABS is going out even though the light hasn't come on in a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis LS.
Is it possible for a module to be bad and still show speed from the rear wheels but the front ones are dead? I replaced all the sensors already but there’s no engine codes for the module being bad. The front sensors are not reading any speed from the wheels
Will the light always come in? I have a 2001 Durango and the brakes lock up now and then. The ABS light was on until I got the brakes serviced at tire discounters but now the front wheels are locking up now and then. When it happens, if I release and press them again they are fine
I have one wheel that is not breaking, I was told it could be the ABS module that is not sending fluid to that specific wheel, is it safe to drive with this problem? or are there other solutions, I haven´t had any warning light yet on my dash, besides that module is really expensive.
Yeah mines the same way. My 2016 Nisan maxima. The speed won’t accelerate. My car thinks I’m pressing the gas and brakes at same time. my abs module is under the hood by the passenger side. Which a mobile mechanic can’t get to do to the position. So I need to take in to a body shop.
What symptoms could I be if my vehicle ABS work sometime nice next time the lights come on and the code shows u0121 lost communication with the ABS module what could be the most common issue
I don't have they ABS light on, but when I scan my car I have like 4 codes saying: no CAN message was received from control unit engine control module and CAN signal 'minimum engine torque' from control unit engine control module is implausible. Pls help
I have a nissan micra 2006 with the abs not working for a long time suddenly my car started smoking when it was parked for 3 hours and i opened the hood and removed the battery then i saw that it was the plug in the abs is shorting how can things like that happen
I have a 09 Kia optima that the front passenger wheel locks up and the only way to get it unlocked is to take the caliper off push the fluid out and put it back together together. It doesn’t lock up every time I drive, but it locks up quite often. Do you think this might be the reason?
I pulled an abs module from a 2007-2011 sentra (north american) to put in my girlfriend's sentra because her brakes are not spongy(no sense of lost pressure) but they lock. Am I on the right track for pulling the module? Any feedback is appreciated
@@pelonconstante6271 everything i was taught in auto school (06-08) was prop valves are only used in rear drum applications due to having to overcome force of the drum springs so the front brakes didn't have to do a ton of work prior to the drums coming into play
I have a 2007 kia sportage. While driving all my brakes locked up and didn't release, had to open the valve on the caliper to release the fluid and then all calipers opened.what can it be? Oh no abs light on also.
21 Canyon. 0 voltage at ABS pump. Brake booster inactive. All inlet and outlet wheel solenoids show inactive. No cel or abs has EVER triggered. Front brakes drag intermittently. Fuses are ok. Pump looks clean as new. Anything you recommend checking before I replace it?
My left caliper failed under three months it started making scaping noise. I replaced it. It was fine again until now three months later? My abs light is on. What do you think it is? I've replaced the sensor too. Thanks!
My car keeps doing this over and over. I keep getting my brakes repaired every 3 months because it’s still under the warranty. The brake company has told me that they can’t keep putting new calipers, pads etc on my car. I’ve taken it to my GM dealer but they’re saying it’s not the ABS. But the brake company is saying most definitely it is. So now I’m taking to another GM dealership for a diagnostic test. I’m so frustrated!
If your rotors are incorrectly wore out, it will cause new pads to further wesr out faster. They rotors need to be replaced. Entire break system is: Brake pedal pushes fluid from break fluid reservoir to caliper. Caliper closes causing pads to tighten on rotor. Releasing brake pedal does opposite. Unless the vacuum pump attached to the engine that the belt turns to engage is faulty causing it to stick. Or your e-brake sticking. But then if those two all 4 wheels would experience thr same thing.
@@WheresWaldo05 thank you for replying because this car has been a nightmare. The body of my car looks brand new but I’ve had major engine work done and just received my brake diagnosis from my local GM dealership and found RR solenoid failing and need to replace EBCM with brake pressure modulator valve, full system bleed, rear brakes and rotors at a cost of $2550. And I just got all new brake pad and calipers less than 2 months ago. At this point I’m trying to get rid of this car.
@@yvonnewilliams8800 Some cars can be lemons. I'm a firm believer in that. But i do think the ford fusions are excellent cars overall through the general masses. I have a 2015 with 94k on it. Nothing has gone wrong with it yet. I just browse videos like these out of boredom and to learn symptoms for various things in case i run into issues later. I work on my own autos......mostly.
Also the more technology the more that can go wrong. Older cars didnt have all these newer systems to go bad to cause brakes to stick on. I have actually never even heard of that being a problem before on any car. Must be extremely rare. Or you could be taken advantage of. I know several shady dealerships and i actively speak out on them. Not saying that is the issues with you necessarily.
@@rubenfaqs the car didn’t like having just one new tire.. I’m guessing the difference in the thread.. or the other tires might have been misshapen since the car was sitting for a while.. but once I replaced them it went away.. the service brake light went off after I bleed the lines and put new fluid in.. I never knew how much damage a car could get by sitting for a long time
Newer cars actually need the ABS to be installed at a dealership or qualified mechanic shop since the "Geniuses" that design the car specifically engineered each ABS module to be Programmed to the VIN of the car or it wont work right... Cough cough JEEP... That way they could make sure that when it goes bad, in stead of just buying the $300-400 part, they could charge another $300-400 to program it and another $500 to install it, even though its fairly easy process to replace it.
brake colle check hose a brake oil do not pass nothing... out the hose vérifie with gun air if air pass not plug hole oil not return abs plug hole because adator suppor of the hose,,,, too much press la cause,,,,,,,,ploblem,,,, pad brake disk ,,, very red véry hot piston caliper no come back,,,, compagnie press too musc the hose ,. dodge avanger 2013 big plobleème burnning charge hose, calipper ,pad ,disk , oil brake
Hey Bro I have a 2015 Mitsubishi Galant Fortis Super exceed. A few days ago I was driving in traffic, the car came to a stop and i was about to tip on the gas pedal to move when The pedal suddenly got soft and dropped, i quickly placed my foot on the brakes and then pedal went soft and straight down as well. I quickly pushed my gear in neutral and turn my hazard lights on. It happenned again two days ago however all scans came back with no error codes. I am being told that the ABS module could be malfunctioning. I was also told i need to bleed my brakes fluid and check the booster pump. Two days ago when it happenned to me on the highway, when I stopped and check my brakes fluid level, it was overflowing, therefore I have a backup up compression of the fluid. What do you suggest?
▶︎ OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
Yesterday my ABS light(s) came on my 2016 RAM truck's dash as I was driving out of the driveway.
I took it to my local Dodge RAM dealer. They said the ABS Module had an internal failure.
The diagnostic charge was $ 160.00 and the module was about $ 1,400.00.
They said it would take about a month to get it in as they only use genuine Mopar parts.
My truck is 7 years old with 32,400 miles on it.
I purchased the Mo Par Max Care unlimited warranty which covers every thing (5,000) parts.
The mileage limitation was 1,000,000 miles. You may say I have a lifetime warranty.
That was the best thing I could have done was buy that warranty for my truck and my wife's car.
Dodge does not offer that any more.
All I have to pay is $ 100 deductible and I'm back on the road.
Bruh, I'm getting a new abs module as mines is faulty and I almost crashed about 2 weeks ago as my brakes locked up on me and it spone the vehicle around 180 degrees. Thankfully no other vehicle was around and I didn't fly off the road.
Glad you str8 fam
Mine is too. Getting a new one
I would of took the abs fuse out and it would disable the abs.
My right wheel in my Tacoma is locking up could this be an issue ?
Did your breaks lock up on there own?
Can a bad brake booster cause premature abs when hitting the brakes?
Yes but usually there will be signs of leaking.
Leaking what, air or fluid?@@jacobluebke8828
1998 Ford E350, 4 wheel ABS. When stopping pedal will not travel unless you press it hard brakes finally work then the BS light comes on and brakes work normally afterwards. Shutting off and restart it does it again. Pulled the ABS maxi fuse in the engine compartment. Lights stays on but the brakes work with no ABS. Also a brake fluid loss no leaks anywhere. Rotors, calipers, master cylinder, vacuum booster,hoses , hard lines and wheel speed sensors all have been replaced. The ABS can not be read thru the OBD-2 port. Seperate port for ABS 1996 to 98 E series. The ABS electronic control checks out. Swapped the controller from my 97 E350 to the 98 same problem and the ABS works on the 97.
I have replaced every single abs related part and the abs and vsc light still wont go off, so i think replacing this is the only option
My steering wheel started shaking today. Last time the garagist said I need to look out for the ABS system, it might need replacement. I am not at ease at all. I wonder if it's the oil, the wheels, or the ABS system. Why are cars like this and why do I still own one?
Cars suck.
my car is a4b5 quattro. My problem started when I lifted it on the jack and started the wheels then they locked. When I put it down I couldn't start it until I released the pressure. After that, as soon as I press the pedal twice, it blocks again. abs can be heard buzzing. What is the problem?
Warning lights:
Check your dashboard for illuminated ABS or other warning lights, which can indicate a problem with the ABS system and potentially prevent the car from starting - which is exactly my problem with my 2013 Ford Transit Connect
Good info. I have a bad module abs is disabled but its on a 1996 chrysler car and parts are hard to find what is a guy to do now without costing more than whats the cars worth resale
Hello, the brake discs in my car are constantly warping. I have changed 3 sets of brake discs and they are all the same. Could this be due to the ABS module?
Unlikely. I'd check other mkre.mechanical things.
Your back brakes are not working and putting all the work on your fronts. I have the same issue. It could be your brake check valve or master cylinder im getting into this problem myself
Hi bro
I have a 2012 ranger
Just disconnected the negative terminal and connected
Now engine abs traction lights on
And the car turns on but won’t move
Any idea ??
I fucking laughed when he said engine compartment fire, yeah sure it can cause fire, but if you hadn't figured theres something wrong when your car is on fire, man you must be ghost rider or something
Can an abs pump start a fire when in a cold engine situation?
Late to this, but no.
I've had mine diagnosed, the tester said it's a short on the front right sensor and a fuse / relay fail but I've checked all the fuses and can't find any abs relays
I've replaced almost evereything in the braking system except for the ABS pump. The car's brake peddle is still spongey even after air bleeing the system, could the ABS module be the reason for this?? Note that there are NO ABS codes or lights.
If you can hear the pump motor running, probably not. Ford dealerships are ripping off thousands of customers just throwing parts at this problem and not making a permanent fix. If the Transportation geniuses in Washington actually owned a car or knew anything about them there would be a safety recall. Ford has to know what the fix is but, when they are making this much money.......why help anyone. If you can't sell cars, sell parts!
I am going through the same problem, spongy brakes. Replaced many things except the abs module, and replaced the entire brake fluid. I suspect the abs module is sucking air somehow, because in one of the brake line which goes from master cylinder to abs module keep getting air even after I bleed it. So my next step is to physically bypass abs module (just for testing purpose). I have removed the abs module and now re-plumbing the lines directly from master cylinder to the brakes. By the way my car is Toyota Camry 2005 Japan build. The abs module looks sealed, no way to open without damaging it.
@@someone1089 can't you figure out from where the air enters the line? I mean there's pressure, hence there'll be at least a leak if not air entering the lines.
@@TheKhwailed Thats the interesting part about this issue. There is no leak anywhere that I can see. I am not loosing fluid at all. ABS module have tiny air passages to pull air in dynamically depending on the situation. I think in my module, perhaps one or more of those passage is stuck open. There is some rust and lots of salt deposits on the module, so I am just guessing this is causing the air to suck in.
Beside this what could it be? I have replaced my already working master cylinder with a new one. I doubt if brake booster has anything to do with soft pedal. Not many options left, but I will continue the search.
@@someone1089 I had and still have a hissing sound coming from the brake booster even after replacing it, but I also don't think that the booster has something to do with the spongy peddle. I'm not at home right now, but when I go, I'll try to air bleed the ABS module. I'm seriously running out of possibilities after working on the ABS module!
is it possible to have a bad module without an ABS light?
No
Yes. When the abs light is burned out.
Yes
1:47 Yes! it is possible that all the electrical components will work ( pump motor, and solinoids) but the valves may stick due to contaminated fluid. Therefore causing either locked brakes or no brakes on one wheel or on several or all. And may not give a warning or code.
@@dougsanders6034 In that cause you just mentioned do I have to change my ABS module? I have one wheel that is not breaking and someone said I need to replace it because it is not sending fluid to that wheel? is there any other solution?
My abs light isn't on but was found to be faulty on a check engine light test
my ABS code error reads rear wheel sensor faulty signal on my 2007 volvo s40. but nothing related to ABD module, that could be just replacing the wheel sensors?
Yes please don't replace the abs module. It could be the abs sensor or at times the wheel hub assembly. Make sure to look for torn wires/corrosion on the connectors for the abs sensor as this can cause it as well.
Need help to fix my abs light on chev sonic 1.4. Only when start up my brakes jumping with no abs light but drive afew meters the light kicks on and jumping
So I have a 2019 Jetta and I’ve replaced my entire harness and the sensor and it’s still not fixed and now I have an epc code and car is in limp mode on top of all the previous lights
My wheels locked up recently causing an accident. I was going about 20 to 25 mph. Can the ABS be going out without having an ABS light coming on? When I first bought the car you could feel the ABS working with the rhythmic pulse felt in the brake pedal. That rhythmic pulse is no longer felt in the pedal and the breaks have had a lock up. The brake pads look good and I just replaced the 5 year old tires but I am still wondering if the ABS is going out even though the light hasn't come on in a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis LS.
Is it possible for a module to be bad and still show speed from the rear wheels but the front ones are dead? I replaced all the sensors already but there’s no engine codes for the module being bad. The front sensors are not reading any speed from the wheels
Will the light always come in? I have a 2001 Durango and the brakes lock up now and then. The ABS light was on until I got the brakes serviced at tire discounters but now the front wheels are locking up now and then. When it happens, if I release and press them again they are fine
I have one wheel that is not breaking, I was told it could be the ABS module that is not sending fluid to that specific wheel, is it safe to drive with this problem? or are there other solutions, I haven´t had any warning light yet on my dash, besides that module is really expensive.
Quick question, was the speedometer going up and down, were the rpm’s staying the same? Having the same problem right now with my truck right now.
Yeah mines the same way. My 2016 Nisan maxima. The speed won’t accelerate. My car thinks I’m pressing the gas and brakes at same time. my abs module is under the hood by the passenger side. Which a mobile mechanic can’t get to do to the position. So I need to take in to a body shop.
What symptoms could I be if my vehicle ABS work sometime nice next time the lights come on and the code shows u0121 lost communication with the ABS module what could be the most common issue
I don't have they ABS light on, but when I scan my car I have like 4 codes saying: no CAN message was received from control unit engine control module and CAN signal 'minimum engine torque' from control unit engine control module is implausible. Pls help
I have a nissan micra 2006 with the abs not working for a long time suddenly my car started smoking when it was parked for 3 hours and i opened the hood and removed the battery then i saw that it was the plug in the abs is shorting how can things like that happen
Does the hole unit need to come out of car or can it be replaced with out removing the pump from car
I have a 09 Kia optima that the front passenger wheel locks up and the only way to get it unlocked is to take the caliper off push the fluid out and put it back together together. It doesn’t lock up every time I drive, but it locks up quite often. Do you think this might be the reason?
Check flex lines
I pulled an abs module from a 2007-2011 sentra (north american) to put in my girlfriend's sentra because her brakes are not spongy(no sense of lost pressure) but they lock. Am I on the right track for pulling the module? Any feedback is appreciated
The abs is good but I have a crack on one of the lines /piping how would you go about fixing that or replacing it???
What about proportioning valve? Don’t they call it that, too? I don’t know? Just asking.
Prop valves were used in vehicles that have rear drum brakes, with disc brakes they removed the prop valves
@@dfrmotorsports4591not true. If there’s no abs module there’s going to be a proportion valve somewhere
@@pelonconstante6271 everything i was taught in auto school (06-08) was prop valves are only used in rear drum applications due to having to overcome force of the drum springs so the front brakes didn't have to do a ton of work prior to the drums coming into play
03 Silverado speedometer is turning faster then I'm driving? Had my stepper motors changed already ??
I have a 2007 kia sportage. While driving all my brakes locked up and didn't release, had to open the valve on the caliper to release the fluid and then all calipers opened.what can it be? Oh no abs light on also.
What was your problem?
I have the same Jeep what was your problem
My problem is that all 4 of the brake calipers locked and wont release until I release the brake fluid from any caliper.
@@trapislandboy654 the brake booster was my problem bro
ESP light showing but not throwing a DTC code ???? Answers on a postcard please. (2013 Suzuki Swift)
Man, idk, but i don't have abs light on.. but idk i stopped pretty hard but no abs was kicking in.. what to do? What can be possible problem?
Brakepads most likely
Or pinched caliper hose not being able to supply fluid
21 Canyon. 0 voltage at ABS pump. Brake booster inactive. All inlet and outlet wheel solenoids show inactive. No cel or abs has EVER triggered. Front brakes drag intermittently. Fuses are ok. Pump looks clean as new. Anything you recommend checking before I replace it?
Is it safe to disconect it and still drive?? Can u do that?
I really want to know
@@bismarkwilliamson8117 yes, the brakes will act like old cars with no ABS. They can lock the brakes.....
My left caliper failed under three months it started making scaping noise. I replaced it. It was fine again until now three months later? My abs light is on. What do you think it is? I've replaced the sensor too. Thanks!
My car keeps doing this over and over. I keep getting my brakes repaired every 3 months because it’s still under the warranty. The brake company has told me that they can’t keep putting new calipers, pads etc on my car. I’ve taken it to my GM dealer but they’re saying it’s not the ABS. But the brake company is saying most definitely it is. So now I’m taking to another GM dealership for a diagnostic test. I’m so frustrated!
If your rotors are incorrectly wore out, it will cause new pads to further wesr out faster. They rotors need to be replaced.
Entire break system is:
Brake pedal pushes fluid from break fluid reservoir to caliper. Caliper closes causing pads to tighten on rotor. Releasing brake pedal does opposite. Unless the vacuum pump attached to the engine that the belt turns to engage is faulty causing it to stick. Or your e-brake sticking. But then if those two all 4 wheels would experience thr same thing.
@@WheresWaldo05 thank you for replying because this car has been a nightmare. The body of my car looks brand new but I’ve had major engine work done and just received my brake diagnosis from my local GM dealership and found RR solenoid failing and need to replace EBCM with brake pressure modulator valve, full system bleed, rear brakes and rotors at a cost of $2550. And I just got all new brake pad and calipers less than 2 months ago. At this point I’m trying to get rid of this car.
@@yvonnewilliams8800 Some cars can be lemons. I'm a firm believer in that. But i do think the ford fusions are excellent cars overall through the general masses. I have a 2015 with 94k on it. Nothing has gone wrong with it yet. I just browse videos like these out of boredom and to learn symptoms for various things in case i run into issues later. I work on my own autos......mostly.
Also the more technology the more that can go wrong. Older cars didnt have all these newer systems to go bad to cause brakes to stick on. I have actually never even heard of that being a problem before on any car. Must be extremely rare. Or you could be taken advantage of. I know several shady dealerships and i actively speak out on them. Not saying that is the issues with you necessarily.
Can a bad module prevent car to no crank no start
Sounds like Randall from Clerks narrating : )
Had mine replaced on my 2011 Ford fusion hybrid by local street mechanic . 900 bucks
I have dash lights on for abs, traction control, and service break lights on but when I had it scanned it passed and showed nothing so I’m confused
what was the problem?
@@rubenfaqs the car didn’t like having just one new tire.. I’m guessing the difference in the thread.. or the other tires might have been misshapen since the car was sitting for a while.. but once I replaced them it went away.. the service brake light went off after I bleed the lines and put new fluid in.. I never knew how much damage a car could get by sitting for a long time
Thank you!!!
Thanks
Newer cars actually need the ABS to be installed at a dealership or qualified mechanic shop since the "Geniuses" that design the car specifically engineered each ABS module to be Programmed to the VIN of the car or it wont work right... Cough cough JEEP... That way they could make sure that when it goes bad, in stead of just buying the $300-400 part, they could charge another $300-400 to program it and another $500 to install it, even though its fairly easy process to replace it.
Ty
I take it that you shouldn't drive your vehicle with this problem?
brake colle check hose a brake oil do not pass nothing... out the hose vérifie with gun air if air pass not plug hole oil not return abs plug hole because adator suppor of the hose,,,, too much press la cause,,,,,,,,ploblem,,,, pad brake disk ,,, very red véry hot piston caliper no come back,,,, compagnie press too musc the hose ,. dodge avanger 2013 big plobleème burnning charge hose, calipper ,pad ,disk , oil brake
You gotta lower that tone bro stop pitching up at the end of every clip. Nobody watching this video is happy about watching this video
🤔👌👋👍
Hey Bro I have a 2015 Mitsubishi Galant Fortis Super exceed. A few days ago I was driving in traffic, the car came to a stop and i was about to tip on the gas pedal to move when The pedal suddenly got soft and dropped, i quickly placed my foot on the brakes and then pedal went soft and straight down as well. I quickly pushed my gear in neutral and turn my hazard lights on.
It happenned again two days ago however all scans came back with no error codes. I am being told that the ABS module could be malfunctioning. I was also told i need to bleed my brakes fluid and check the booster pump. Two days ago when it happenned to me on the highway, when I stopped and check my brakes fluid level, it was overflowing, therefore I have a backup up compression of the fluid. What do you suggest?