2003 Ford F150 Exhaust Manifold Removal
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- Опубликовано: 22 янв 2019
- Removing the exhaust manifold on the passenger side of a 2003 Ford F150 4.6L. During this repair I encountered the worse case scenario for an exhaust manifold replacement. I recommend you have a cutting torch and power tools to complete this job in a timely manner. If you don't have all the tools it may be wise to pay a professional to avoid the headache.
Exhaust Manifold Replacement - • 2003 Ford F150 Exhaust...
Sorry clip 1:42 should have been inserted at 1:00. Thanks for Watching!
Determination, million tabs,rain day and night rusted studs and broken studs he ain’t given up. I am impressed. Good video!
Thanks!
Hey. I just want to personally say thank you. This job sucks even without having to set up a camera and narrate every step. For you to go through that just to help others is commendable and greatly appreciated.
Glad to help! The worse part is the editing. LOL!
perseverance is the key, and calm work process wins every time. GREAT JOB Thomas
Thanks! I don't ever want to do that job again. LOL!
aw come on, you showed everyone that they could do it withiout any special tools, that is worth alot.
Dude you have more patience than anybody I know. Very good video. You stuck with it and got the job done. Great explanations of each step and problem. I know that had to have been a couple days for you. I noticed from the tools you are using your definitely not a professional mechanic. Kudos to you for a top notch repair and video.
Thanks! They are tools I used when I use to work in a shop when I was in my 20's. I much older now. =)
Thanks for the video, I just did this on my 2000 5.4 F150. Lessons learned/specialty tools used by DIYer:
-Irwin bolt extractor set 3094001 removed all nuts
-Performance Tool stud extractor W83203 removed studs the best
-Lisle stud remover 19250 removed some studs, I prefer the PT stud remover
-Dorman screw grab helped tools remove some misshaped fasteners
-I bought new stainless studs/nuts from MSTC
-the MSTC studs don’t come with down pipe bolts, buy from Dorman/Advanced Auto
-I used OEM manifold and gaskets
-I removed the starter solenoid for better access to a few bottom studs and 1 down pipe bolt
-preventative maintenance, I replaced the starter solenoid since I had the original off
-preventative maintenance, spray the downstream O2 sensor with proper cleaner since it’s right there with manifold out
-preventative maintenance, spray Sea Foam down exhaust towards catalytic converter to clean deposits (truck will smoke for a few minutes upon start up as deposits burn)
-with truck on tall jack stand, I was able to do most of the work on a comfortable stool
-creeper is nice for removing starter solenoid and 1 down pipe bolt
-if you can’t get the top left stud out by down pipe, watch video by Warzone The Collector
Welcome!
Thanks for the tip on the starter. It should help me.
'03 F150 5.4l. I was going to try this myself, but after seeing the effort it took I think I'll take it to my mechanic. He said $350 for the job. He has a lift, so it "should" be easier for him. It's worth it to me! You did a GREAT job explaining everything in the video!
Thanks! For $350 it is worth letting the mechanic deal with the headache. =)
I’ve been told that mechanics will tell you that starting price is $300 to )350 if all goes well but in reality it never all goes well. So the average ticket for the repair including parts is closer to $1000 and I’ve heard of $1,500 a few times.
@@OakLogHome I would need in writing my repair quote. =)
Awesome video! Thanks for making it, you covered a lot, I feel like I could do this now.
Thanks! I don't know if I would do it again, I might pay someone. LOL!
Thanks for the Info, I'm going to give it a try on the passenger side of my 2003 F150 but its a 5.4L but pretty much same thing. Your Vids help me that's for sure Thanks in Advance, From Title Town, Green Bay WI
Thank you!! I didn’t know how to remove the flange bolts until I saw your video.
Glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know.
Great video! I'm going outside in a couple hours to work on my '03 4.6 passenger side as well.
Thanks! I hope yours is easier than mine was.
Great vid man alot of good info im doing mine next weekend
Thanks! If yours is as rusty as mine was, I hope you have another vehicle so you can take a break. I hope yours is easier to do than mine was.
Kudos to you man. Very patient
I had to take a lot of breaks to drink some sweet tea and pray. =)
Nice work,your the stud
That was hard work!
Thanks for sharing this video man good job
Welcome! Thanks!
Great video! Thank you for sharing!!
Welcome! I hope I never have to do that repair again. LOL!
Wow-what a nightmare, thanks for posting
I recommend taking it to a shop, unless you like a challenge. =)
Thanks for this video! I'm working on a 2003 Ford F 150 also!!
Welcome! Man I feel sorry for you on this job. It was work.
thank's, gotta do my 2003 n4.6 , same side next week. appreciate the time !
I might pay the shop if I had to do it again. =) I hope yours is way easier than mine was. Thanks for watching!
@@thomasfixit7931 got it done, ,, one thing confuses Me, we have 03's, 4.6's, but I needed a buddy, use his floor jack, raise engine 2", to get bottom second to right, partly behind motor mount, after removing Motor mount screw. BITCH ! put bolt back in, ,, but truck sound's NEW !!! mine was way more rusted, and big crack/hole, right in very front,,, of the few vid's I watched, your's encouraged me the most, GIT R DONE !! can't swing someone else do ! thx again.
I just searched/found your video. Looking for ideas to get the bottom nuts removed.
The top wasn't too difficult. One stud was already sheared off. I used a dremel to slice througn the other 3 top nuts. Those studs came out okay wirh vice grips.
My nuts were hardened steel, so surprised they turned to a pile of rust. Reminds me of rusty rivets on old bridges.
Any, it looks like we're taking tge same path. Thank you for the video.
Hopefully you get it fixed. This was the worst repair I have ever done on this truck.
Tanks for share you video
Welcome!
Did anyone else have issues with the motor mount on passenger side? '03 4.6L. Couldn't get a socket on the middle two manifold nuts on the bottom - had to use a carbide rasp in a small 90deg air die grinder and shave down the bracket the motor mount comes on to be able to slip a thin walled chrome socket on the middle two nuts. The motor mount bracket was literally touching the exhaust hardware and blocking all tools. Added an easy 45min to the job, which was two broken studs below surface. Ground the broken studs flat with the carbide burr, smacked a sharp center punch in the middle, drilled and extracted them. Replacing the engine mounts and valve cover gaskets while i'm in there since the wheel liner is off and it's all so much easier right now. It's a big job. Anyone should feel proud accomplishing it.
In the same boat with my 01 f-150 with the 5.4. I have 3 broken studs, 2 sub flush and one sticking out but barely. I’ve tried the weld technique over and over and over with a fail every time. I couldn’t get the weld to stick to the stud well enough. About to try the drilling and extractor method next. WHAT A MISERABLE NIGHTMARE! But I got to persevere on and get this done.
I feel your pain. It will take some time to drill them out. I pray you get it fixed. Take breaks, so you don't get frustrated when it seems like forever.
@@thomasfixit7931 yes it’s all about being very Zen when doing this job. Gonna take it nice and easy on the drilling part and not be forceful
Thanks for the video! Question - do you have to cut the flange bolts because of rust or because of the lack of tool availability?
I working on this same project, but rust isn't a bad problem, but the design of the cat converter leadpipe is - it has a sharp dogleg bend so close to the flange that you can't fit a standard deep socket square over the nut, but the stud is too long for a standard short socket. I can't seem to get an offset wrench on there either because of the lip on the flange, as well as most offset wrenches I can find are 12 point, and you need a 6 point for this job.
Welcome! Cut because of rust.
I have an arsenal of air tools, a dremel tool, etc at my disposal. May borrow a MIG welder or do this job at said friends house who has said MIG welder to get the subsurface bolts out if need be. I hate using hand tools, if I can break a nut/bolt with an impact I'll do it. When that fails......out comes my die grinder and cut off wheel, lol. I also have Mr. Air Hammer to chisel away stubborn bolts.
It would be nice to have all those tools. =) I just use what I have. I hope never to do that job again. LOL!
I’m dealing with this currently. Stud snapped same Spot, tried extractor also snapped. Currently using dremel with grinding bit to chew it out. Then hoping to use titanium drill bit to get the stud out.
But did you end up salvaging the manifold or using a new one? I also had to cut the flange bolts and they are seized in the manifold
Sorry you have to go through that headache. I replaced it, you can check out my other video.
Man I give you props. I tell a lot of people they have to have patience when working on a vehicle. I have an 01 Ford F150 super crew that I do majority of the work to myself. Bought the truck and 05 with 40,000 miles it’s got 250,000 miles now. Besides the common problems that all of them have like intake manifold. I’ve got A few exhaust manifold bolts broke off on the passenger side and been that way for at least 10 years or longer. Also I still have the original exhaust on the truck. But I’m going to ask you is your honest opinion do you think it’s worth jumping into I will be just better off paying somebody to do it? Also how many hours did it take you to do the one side? Why am asking you this is because I’ve been wanting to do this for a few years now but I am very hesitant about jumping into it. All the years I have worked on this truck I’ve only have one bolt break and that was on my driver side front caliber glide. So I got the patience and I’m very OCD about doing stuff right like Torquing bolts to the correct inch or foot poundage plus sequence. So do you really think it’s worth doing or not?
I would pay someone to do it, if I could afford it. It really depends how bad the nuts are rusted. Mine was bad, took a couple days, but I had another truck to drive if I ran into problem like I did.
Who makes does Square style stud removers cant really find them only see spiral type ?
Shop for any straight flute stud extractor bit set, IRWIN will probably pop up
So the studs the parts store gave me look very small compared to the holes on the new manifold, is that normal?
Compare them to the factory studs, the parts store is known for giving the wrong parts
@@thomasfixit7931 they we're the right ones, new manifold is installed 👍
@@legoredneck5226 Glad to hear everything went well!
is there a certain reason why you changed it
It was cracked. It was leaking and you could hear it.
My case went south my studs were rust welded in nothing worked getting them out. Thousands of doller mistake when studs break off in head if you dont have the money dont mess with it yourself because studs will break expect it no easy way out. I know from my own experience.
It is a tough job for sure.
That thing is barely rusty
Just a little.
Dude. This job sucks. I am literally cutting my manifold into pieces to get it out.
I agree, I never want to do one again.