The dreaded Ford 5.4 manifold
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- Опубликовано: 15 апр 2021
- Replacing a cracked exhaust manifold on a 2010 F150 5.4 at home. My first attempt at replacing one at home instead of paying the $600 plus each side the shops want. This is the 4th manifold replaced since I owned the truck. Follow along for some tips on helping you replace one at home for under $100. #fyp #auto #repair #diy #ford #manifold
I just did this job today,passenger side, on a 2010 with the 4.6. Had to loosen the engine mount nuts and then jacked up the motor for some clearance. Then I used my Chinese plasma cutter to cut thru the exhaust bolt. I then used my $200 Chinese copy of the badass inductive heater on all of the nuts and studs. All came out with ease. That inductive heating tool is a miracle.
I heard of the inductive heater. Would like to have one of those.
@@workwithkevin Its absolutely priceless that I can, once it cools, bend the coiled end of the copper electrode 90-degrees to get access to the nuts.
Did you use a jack to lift the motor?
Same thing on my 2002 5.4 2v Expedition. I used all stainless hardware for my installation including stainless shorty headers. Say goodbye to the dreaded triton exhaust manifold for good!
What an absolutely miserable job! Ford really goes out of their way to make things as hard as possible mechanically.
Good job. It's about $1000 Labor to replace the passenger side on my 2010 here in Central PA and I shopped a few places.
What a croc!!!
I spent 600 a side prior and they damaged other items doing so
I’m in the middle of doing my 2010 F150 5.4L passenger side. I’m having trouble getting to the two front bottom bolts. Hopefully I’ll get them out within lifting the motor. I really like my truck but my goodness it’s a engineering nightmare. Going to try the impact ratting. Thanks for the tip and the video
I agree wholeheartedly with the engineering nightmare
I removed the starter made it easier and I used a mirror at times. It was tough but a whole lot cheaper than the garage charges. Good luck
Just did this same job, one thing I noticed is your gaskets. I had one of those types of gaskets fail on me. Went felpro instead. If you have to do it again, definitely get those or the Mahle stamped steel ones.
Thank you. Hope I don't have to visit that again.
Thanks
Good job 👍
Thanks
Had same trouble 3 sets in 3 years ,i installed headers, Doug Thorley. No more problems and better get up an go..
That's an option. I think that ford should have better inner fenders to keep water and salt off engine too.
@@workwithkevin Exactly , Ford does not always have a better idea. Good used manifolds come from dry states.
DO NOT FORGET TO RE TORQUE YOUR MANIFOLD BOLTS AFTER A HEAT COOL CYCLE!!!! YOU WILL GET A LEAST ANOTHER QUARTER TURN TO THE BOLTS!!!!!
Thanks for the reminder
Appreciate the info so you’re telling me now when I bought mine back in I have to go for a cruise come back let it cool down and re-torque them and then I can put all my stuff back together?
good job!
J'ai fait mon manifold côté conducteur l'automne passé 2021 et là j'ai entreposé pour l'hiver mon camion, au printemps il me reste le côté passager à faire... J'espère avoir de l'espace pour travailler... il parait que c'est plus serré du côté passager...
Belle Job !
I made my driver's side manifold last fall 2021 and there I stored my truck for the winter, in the spring I still have the passenger side to do... I hope to have space to work. .. it seems that it is tighter on the passenger side ...
Beautiful Job!
From Montreal ! Rusty rusty frosty... :-(
Thank you. Good luck.
Not only is it ok annoying ...it can mess up your o2 sensor readings ...I have to do my 2001 e250..its not really just a ford issue ..all motors with aluminum heads is the problem.....good job !!!!.cheers
Thank you.
How did you get the bottom front 2 out with the ac compressor in the way?
From the top and through the wheel well gave me enough room
Wow lot work to do on the truck
My 2003 F150 has the same problem cracked manifold it's never been replaced the nuts n studs so rusted that I'll have to cut them off some I just welded the crack for now let me know if you want to do another one
Wish I could have welded it. Crack was around to back side too.
It’s a combination of thin castings(stock and aftermarket) and lack of flexibility in the exhaust system.
Way to go man I’m doing the same thing , how did you get the front bottom bolt ?? Through the top with a wrench ?? My top one was already broken. I’m hoping to weld a nut to it !! I’ve been letting them soak for two days !! Somebody mention the Ford make you loco guy has a four video series and that you don’t have to drop the starter. I watch the same one and the guy did drop the starter so I did the same thing you did. I’m gonna replace my starter I put junk back in Any way!! really good job!! I was going to give up but here we go !! I’m dealing with Wisconsin winter too so I feel your pain. This video is like two years old. How did your manifold hold up?
Still crossing my fingers manifold still quiet. Thanks for watching
@@workwithkevin just got mine out ! Dang !! I was going to junket until I watched your video man thank you I got three studs snapped off and two are in the front. Wish me luck it’s not over yet Chevy man 320,000 miles only thing I did was brake lines Ford do you like the navy seals, it’s like hell week 120 hours of just grueling unnecessary labor to get that stuff out. The starter is ridiculous. I like how you mention what happened to the two bolt Chevy starter come on.
Save yourself the headache because of a poor manifold design. They will just keep cracking on you in time. I did mine on a 2010 F140 Lariat and opted for JBA shorty headers that bolt right to the stock exhaust system. No troubles anymore, quiet and will not crack. Happy with the outcome in the end. Headers are a little more money but you won't have to do this again. Just make sure to periodically tighten the mounting bolts again.
Have the new headers held up? I think it’s the exhaust mounting design that puts to much pressure in the manifold
I ordered JBA shortys for my 2010 5.4 and promptly returned them after seeing how terrible the finish and welds were. Maybe I got a bad set but during my return JBA tried to argue with me saying they were fine. They were the most half assed headers I have ever seen. They insert all 4 pipes into the plate at once and weld instead of properly welding them individually to ensure strength and a proper seal. It’s very obvious they’re focus is quantity not quality because the finishing grind on mine was clearly done at full speed by a blind 1 handed monkey on meth. They have zero pride or respect for their own product, that’s why they’re cheap.
How can your manifolds look like that being "new"? Those things look OLD. You say they replace those 3 times? I just replaced my passenger side and am doing the drivers now. A new welder showed up late last night so I can weld the nut to the last remaining stud. FYI on a 2011 Ford Econoline you do not need to raise motor for passenger side, only starter. 5.4
I drilled out that broken bolt and broke off a "easy out" inside the bolt. Hence the welder.
We have lots of road salt here in upstate New York.
The issue from what I gather is poor design, lack of good flex having the one way exhaust weight on one side (passenger side) and poor quality steel not coated for poor conditions, rain, snow, salt on the roads, extreme cold or hot weather etc. Headers are a better option for those who wanna get more mileage and most likely withstand harsh weather conditions. I'm on my 3rd manifold on the passengers side and after 4 years in NE weather they look like the one in this video. Dorman brand replacement. Lifetime warranty so will get the $80 back. But the labor is $600 at $90 an hour, local mechanic. I have 250k miles on it but it's a utility vehicle for my college attending son for snow trips, extra vehicle for when another vehicle needs service etc. This time I coated the manifold 4 times with high temperature grill paint. We'll see if that helps. I don't see having it longer then five years but who knows it still runs and drives great.
Lots of work and cost. I can't stand a leaky exhaust
Ac and starter pleanty of room
No need to jack an engine. All about having the right tools.
Done many.
I agree. My first time. Not sure why shops charge 600 a side.
You want to do mine lol you made it look easy don’t want to do it lol
if i had a two post lift i would, the crawling is tough
At some point you might consider getting headers
that's why you do the job yourself and replace everything with stainless steel
I didn't. I dont plan on having to remove them twice. I'll buy another motor first. ;)
If it happens again I will. Thanks
Yeah mine do same thing sounds like sheet .. loose power too.
I think when exhaust leaks there is a loss of power
I'm doing the RH side right now on a customers truck. What a F,ing nightmare !
Fords better ideas. Close to starter, motor mount, and a/c.
Yep, I had one stud break in the worst spot after lots of heat and penetrating oil. After welding 4 nuts on it, the head came off....
it cracks because of ac water condensation from the ac divert this water and your good.
now you have me thinking. thanks for watching
I have changed a few of them and there a big pain in the ass.
I agree. I don't trust the auto shops to do them. Missing bolts or they crack again and the cost.
Make sure you cover the battery with that WREGG....
what is wregg
@@ericsandrin8123 watch the video and pay attention. Listen closely. Tear the video apart...then you have your answer....
I didn't smell it bro..
Just got a 2002 f150 with a 5.4 proud to say it sounds better than this 09😂
I have a 2010
Everything about working on this engine is dreaded
they make all this stuff so it eventually breaks. its called job security
I think your right. Plus they make it difficult to work on and need specialty tools. Unlike the old days.
I’ve been putting this job off for so long. Thankfully it’s not my daily driver. But it is embarrassing/annoying driving around in it
Yes and that was the second or third time around so by doing it yourself may be the beat chance to do a better job.
Fordtechmakuloco has a full 4 vid series on how to do this job and you do not have to remove the starter nor do you have to jack up the engine. Extra work for absolutely no reason. 🤦♂️
Yes but he has a lift. I was crawling and couldn't see well. I didn't remove the motor mount or jack engine. Just needed to get broken bolts out.
crusty one
that's same age of the truck,and you can't weld,them,bad welding
A welder told me he could weld cast but it's expensive
That don't look like a 5 year old manifold to me.
New york rust makes these manifolds look old in a week. The inner fender doesn't keep all the splash off the engine.
Are the the bolts being replaced? It’s common problem for boats to break. If you’re telling them to replace the manifold, they may not be removing broken bolts and replacing bolts. Don’t tell a technician what you want done because that’s what they’re gonna do. Good luck! You will wish you had a professional technician. Just saying!
It was the third time doing this. twice by "professionals" and this time i tried it, yes a struggle, but hundreds cheaper. I had no broken studs until I removed nuts. I installed the stainless. Cross my fingers, still quiet.
'
JANK. FORD IS NO GOOD ENEY MOR
Hardest part for me was getting the old manifold out and the new one in.
It's a project
@@workwithkevin it definitely is but I did get it done. Took me about a day and a half. I ended up jack up the motor a few inches and the manifold came out pretty easy.
Hopefully I never have to do it again lol