Base was 6.5hrs - I could have went 8.2hrs plus And each bolt broken adds up to 1hr I charged 7.5hrs for the manifold 3.5hrs for the power steering pump and Pulley 1.5hrs for the front brakes and Rotors I threw in the starter for free because it was already out and the wire repair because it won't take that long. I replaced all the Pulleys on the front of the motor as well for free because it's only like 20min of work
@@FordBossMe Thanks! Very reasonable if you ask me maybe too reasonable. I hope the owner sees the video and appreciates all the work you put into his truck. You’re a good person and great mechanic!
Awesome job, I know it's very difficult sometimes to get them studs out. We usually try to weld a washer with a nut over the stud and extract it out that way. Did a great job thank you for sharing that with us.
A truly professional job Rich. I have seen guys pay to get this job done and get it back with only half the bolts reinstalled. Some guys just don't have what it takes to do it right.
You know Rich! I know this job was some what painful to do. But what I really like is that you did such a good job of it. Also in the face of studs being corroded in etcetra. That exhaust manifold came up a treat.🌟 🙂👍Be blessed.
Great Job, and what patience you have. That was a very stressful job you just completed and you remained calm in the face of a large storm. Ford should stand behind their products and do a recall on all 5.4 because of this problem. I am looking at a 3rd passenger side manifold replacement on my 2008 F150. The last 2 leaked after long trips pulling a heavily loaded large trailer at high RPM'S. When will the mayhem stop! I guess when I get rid of the Ford!
Living in Northern Ontario i have done way to many of these manifolds than i care to remember . . Even did a couple on the 6.2 liter in a 2012 F-360 . Here is a tip i have found makes the 5.4 liter manifolds a little easier . Maybe you have tried this and maybe not .... I do not lift the motor straight up , instead i use a port-a-power ram and lift the motor on an angle for the side i am doing . I have found much more space to work as it also pushes the engine away from the frame and the one side higher than lifting from the center . Like i said , not sure if you ever tried this method but if not may be worth a shot . I worked flat rate for way too many years lol. Anything to make my job easier and faster i tried ! Sad that it is not only Ford this stud issue is happening to . Ram is snapping studs and they are more of a 3/8 stud size and GM is popping the heads off bolts too . Good video though so those who are not in our trade know what we go through . Take Care .....
My newest tool in my box that I don't know how I lived without here in Massachusetts especially doing countless of these Ford rusted manifolds is my Venom HP induction heater from Induction Innovation's. Works amazing and great when CAN'T use a set of torches. ONLY heat's the metal parts you actually want to heat. In the event the studs snapped off flush with the head and can't weld a nut in the end and have to resort to drilling them I use my Pro Maxx template and easy peasy..
I've done these they are a nightmare on the expeditions extra cooler and ac lines in the way on the passenger side. If the studs break they break go by each one and twist them off till they snap off. Weld a nut onto the flush stud and slowly turn that's what's helped me on triton motors. If you don't have a welder it's damn near impossible. Absolutely no room for a drill.
I would say pull the head, Constance Ford and all the other manufacturers had to have a big bright idea and stop using push rod engines So instead of taking about an hour to pull ahead with your typical push rate engine and 3 peace timing chain It would take you a day to pull the head with the VV t's
The 3v drawer, you are very organized. Yea, I figured you would have some difficulty with the work you were doing, but a BOSS just takes that 5.4 by the horns and grinds away until it gets done. I did a mix of your vids today while I was working. I learned a lot of stuff! Stay Blessed!
Just a heads up...the ends of those studs are 3/16 and can be taken out with a socket that size..just spray with pb blaster, let sit, spray again, and again then turn clockwise a hair and then loosen them out. I did this with my 03 lariat and worked like a charm! Don't even have to mess with the nut that is on them which in my opinion helps decrease chances of breaking the studs..either way good job bro!
Nice Job! Usually when we do these, it's because several bolts have broken and the gasket has blown out. Usually have to do multiple extractions per side, some easier than others. Gotta love the challenge ✌
What a great tutorial! Terrific description, especially the focus on cleaning away the corrosion at the place where the stud and head exhaust surface meet. Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn. - Benjamin Franklin
Fun times for sure,thanks again for sharing your journey. I have thought about recording some of the jobs I do just so people can see how bad some of the engineering is on todays cars. I just this past week put an engine in a 2017 land rover sport,( I do mostly European and Asian work) fairly straight foward job with the exception of having to use a mirror to r&r the converter bolts,and the exhaust flange nuts being on backwards. Stupid designs cost time,but most just think we have a "special" tool for that,whereas there may well be,there isnt a tool box big enough to house all the special tools needed. And as a side note,it took 6 weeks to get a $15k long block for this rover,all because of poor engineering as far as coolant bypass tubes go,all hard plastic that can not take the heat,especially under the supercharger,three different tubes were leaking coolant,so a warning to those that do not repair your own vehicles,those warning lights serve a purpose,ignoring the engine overheat light in this out of warranty car cost almost 20k. And to the haters regarding this guy fixing his rusted old Ford,we dont know the back story of the truck,maybe it was his dad's or his pap's truck that left it to him,we do know a new truck will set you back 60k,throwing a few thousand at a vehicle that can get a few more years isn't a bad thing as long as that vehicle warrants the effort.
Oh I remember I was gonna have to replace the manifolds on my old man’s truck. I was dreading working on it because I was worried about the studs breaking and having to extract them. Well lucky for me his engine blew one day. So instead of manifolds I replaced his engine lol
must compliment you on your patience!👍 last time i Delt with rust like that was my 78 trans am the shackles were a nightmare of rust putting in the new leaf springs in.
I noticed the new model F-150 and Expeditions, have incorporated more plastic splash shields. I swear that's why the manifolds, have so many issues. They were exposed to the elements.
On my 3rd set of manifolds on my ‘05 5.4. What a pain. These engines run too lean and fry the manifolds without hesitation. I now use stainless headers and they are much improved but still not perfect. I’ve given up hope on finding a set of headers that last more than 2 years.
Good job man I know it is a challenging job dealing with those studs. I have a 99’ f250 4.6 that i replaced those manifolds on a while back. Pretty sure i snapped all studs to get manifold out. most were left with a stub to grab. I used a 90deg. drill and .050” drill bit to drill 5 or 6 spots around each stud to a depth of about 2 threads and sprayed. PB penetrant(24hr soak) to break them loose and remove with vise grips. Had to do a couple of welded nuts too.
I have been here many times! your lucky if you have a stud left to work with! I have had to use my welder and just weld a nut to what is left after removing manifold. sucy job!
I have an 04 F150, 5.4 3V V8. Only 71K orig. miles but yeah, 17 years old. I'm getting quotes from 1700-2400 to replace the warped right bank exhaust manifold. I'm not sure on conditions of studs. I have no clue what to do. Now that it's pointed out, I can hear the clicking. Also have been smelling exhaust, especially on start-up, which I had chalked-up to being an old truck.
Good way to remove and install top starter bolt is go through the wheel well over the frame rail and under the manifold. 13mm impact flex socket on a 3/8 impact swivel adapter(basically a double flex) on an 18inch extension. Works every time.
This job separates the pros from the wanna be true mechanics are you listening scotty? Another great video. Broken bolts just sucks and slow the job down from getting finished. Been there down that. Question are you using copper silicone on the threads on the bolts going into the f150 manifold? If so why? High heat? I just use never seize, is this wrong?
I got a funny story that’ll make you wanna puke. Did this two years ago…but I took the cab off. My fucking shop got me Doorman manifolds. It’s back the manifolds are rotted and cracked [it’s a SALT truck] and the body now is so rotted the cab won’t come off……now I have to do it this way. Only good news the bolts will come out cause I did this already and extracted the broken studs couple years back. Lol cheers man 🍻
Did you raise the engine at all? You might have mentioned in a previous video but thought I’d ask! I’ve got a 2010 and gonna tackle this job over the summer
Just spit ballin here. What do you think about putting thread tape on the studs before screwing them into the head? I come from the class 8 diesel world which is dominated by cast iron, so antiseize works wonderful. When dealing with aluminum, it doesn’t always stop electrolysis though.
The best. Always. Afraid my manifolds need replacing too, exhaust leak. Won’t have you do it, rather have you do the other stuff first than make you go through all this crap again. Doubt you feel like touching a manifold stud for another year after this one.
if you think thats a bad job, try doing the manifold gaskets on a jag XJS V 12, original bloke went sick after 2 days on it and i spent the rest of the week doing it...never again thankfully.
AND then ruin your head's? NOT smart man.. I've lost count of people like yourself who's vehicles I've then been tasked to fix, which also ends up being 2x as expensive as if fixed it in a timely manner.
@@wyattkranz2450 Yup and that leaking exhaust gas is literally eating away at the metal heads! If he ever does do them, chances are he will also be buying a set of heads and gaskets
The passenger side manifold is about a 9-hour job I only charged 7.5 hours because this is an old truck and I would hate to charge somebody what I could charge them maximum wise when I know the truck's not going to last but a few more years
@@FordBossMe Ugh. Don't envy you on these kind of jobs. I'll take almost anything over broken bolts. I used the small torch tip and vise grips to get all the studs out of the one I did. Some people say oh the jobs make you a better mechanic. I'll pass. Exhaust shop guys can have these jobs. Always enjoy your content
when i watched part 1.i commented about allways 1 or 2 studs being a P I A. it never fails.it truely is a dreaded job.but well done rich.im sure there are some unpleasant outakes in editing as well.i didnt mean to jinx you when i commented earlier.i knew you had your work cut out for you.ive done it too many times.its never been easy.
Nice job bud looks good I had drill out half bolts on a International v 8 with emissions and oil cooler right next it I feel you to night be good night for chicken and beer 😎
Really late lol but ive seen one guy at the shop i work at heat the head/stud and immediatley apply ice (or something very cold) and it will come right out. Maybe try it out next time
Did a 2012 f450 v10 3 weeks ago and let me tell you that was a nightmare doing it in frame. I was probably better off pulling the engine and fixing the studs on a stand vs in the truck, 10/20 were broken and most right in front of the spring towers. I was able to extract most of them but I think I had to drill out 4 that wouldn’t budge. Prob the worse setup to work on in my opinion.
@dieseldabz710 lisle 71600 and some good cobalt drill bits on my right angle drill was the winner for me. And the ones I could still grab was super easy with the ares 70016 stud extractor. Probably one of the best damaged stud extractors I’ve come across so far.
The only issues I’ve had with my ‘09 F150 5.4 FX4 since new have been the passenger side exhaust manifold and the a/c compressor clutch going out. It’s still a terrific low mileage truck in pristine condition. If I can ask a question? I’m getting ready to replace the fluids in both diffs, transfer case, tranny, and power steering. (For the second time since new) I’m torn between having a Ford dealer do the job using their Motorcraft fluids and top technicians or a good private shop do it who will use the proper Castrol synthetics. I like the idea of the Ford techs doing the work but I think I like the Castrol fluids better. Which would you go with?
Hey I got a question to ask, I got a 2007 F-150 4.6L 150kmiles need to do the timing chain soon, I got practically all the front end components new from Ford since it’s going to be taken apart should I also do the roller rockers? As I heard there common to fail on the 5.4? But this is a 4.6 not sure. Thanks in advance for your advise
I have a 2012 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.0 with 179000 miles. Engine that's ticking. I've heard a few people say ticking is common for that engine. Could there be a problem with the manifold?
I appreciate that, it still doesn't tell me what you charged, I'm only asking because my dealer wants 2,300. I see it takes about 11hr or so. Just debating about having it done for a third time. Thanks,kyle
Frame looks pretty nasty for all that labour at the dealer. I do believe factory parts and dealer service is the best way to go. But around here shop rate for dealer is 150/hr vs 90 at a private mechanic, since this is a hoist job. I dare say this thing is clapped out to the point where I would take it for the cheaper labour rate. Hemi's break the bolts and make an awful mess like this too, already had the passenger side done but warranty job. Tried my best to break the drivers side under warranty but no luck LOL. I think it was glowing red hot often enough for close to a month LOL.
Ever use the bg pentetrating spray? I beet the hell out of a rotor..guy put a baby spray of bg on it, I hit it one more time and it went flying . I didn't believe in it until then
@@FordBossMe don't try to buy it online, wait for a sales rep to come by..I think guys buy it and price gouge on ebay..it's not cheap but not those prices..I belive it is called in force 👍
A few times in my career I may have "brushed down" a few super stuck parts with r12. Yes, r12. Got stuck spark plug out once that way. Again, I may have done this
I did a fine Job on this and have many more videos like it, Brian is good don't get me wrong but don't come here throwing another creators name around like they are God Take it easy with that crap
So my truck is at the shop right now and I got an 08 5.4 f150 passenger manifold gasket leak. Guy calls ne after few hours saying he is tapping out because the fuel line is in the way and it’s seized and don’t want to try to remove it because it might break! I’m wondering is the fuel line actually in the way or is he just quitting because this is a hard job??? I’m frustrated about it because this job seems too major for anyone and I’m driving around with a gasket leak which stalls my truck every time I come into a stop 🤦♂️ HELP!!
Left-handed Cobalt drill bits Standard and Metric stud remover sockets I have some box style metal Mac extractors looks like chisels but they're inserts you tap them in your Drilled hole to ectract and they bite in I also have a set of Ryobi spiral extractors that gets tighter as you twist them in same as the Mac ones above I have a full Master set of cobalt stubby 1/2 size drill bits I have to have the heavy duty angle drill from Mac Tools
You should check out South Main Auto, Eric O lives in upstate N.Y. and he does these pretty regularly. The cars he works on make me cringe as to how bad they are corroded, but he gets it done. He is funny as S&#t too. Thanks for the great videos as well.
I’m curious if you can, whats this job going to cost??
Base was 6.5hrs - I could have went 8.2hrs plus
And each bolt broken adds up to 1hr
I charged 7.5hrs for the manifold
3.5hrs for the power steering pump and Pulley
1.5hrs for the front brakes and Rotors
I threw in the starter for free because it was already out and the wire repair because it won't take that long.
I replaced all the Pulleys on the front of the motor as well for free because it's only like 20min of work
@@FordBossMe Thanks! Very reasonable if you ask me maybe too reasonable. I hope the owner sees the video and appreciates all the work you put into his truck. You’re a good person and great mechanic!
@@FordBossMe Reasonable, especially for the amount of work done.
Dealerships may not be a rip-off after all.
@@TheBandit7613 I rip nobody off and my dealership is super responsible to all the customers
Awesome job it will not come back. You should fill good about that one. Lucky it's not warranty.
"The 3 valve drawer"...pretty much says it all and I'm loving it.
Was about to say the same! Lol
I have one!
All the modern shiny equipment in the shop... then there's the gas bottle trolley. Love it.
I wish all Ford dealerships did the quality of work you do...
Nothing like a 3V to make a guy second guess turning wrenches for a living. But victory is sweet isn’t it.
Indeed brother
Yup they're junk
You are one of a kind..........Your dealership (and your customers) ought to be blessed you working for them
Thanks brother
Was waiting all day for this to drop!
I love the new tool box. Shiny new tools and tool boxes make me happy LOL
Me to bust costtttt
When you win a tough battle it is personally very rewarding ! Thanks sharing this battle !
Thank You
Rich fantastic job and your customer is blessed because you did a great job 👏 🇬🇧
Tyvm brother
I knew you could do it. Good job Rich.
Tyvm
Awesome job, I know it's very difficult sometimes to get them studs out. We usually try to weld a washer with a nut over the stud and extract it out that way. Did a great job thank you for sharing that with us.
Patience, thinking, step back and walking away for a little bit is always a good thing when working on cars nowadays. No room for short tempers .
Agreed
Determination and hard work pay off! Way to be, brother!
Tyvm
What a job..LIke your toolbox.. Looks like you have a few new tools.Gotta have the right tools to do the job..Great video
A truly professional job Rich. I have seen guys pay to get this job done and get it back with only half the bolts reinstalled. Some guys just don't have what it takes to do it right.
Tyvm
You know Rich! I know this job was some what painful to do. But what I really like is that you did such a good job of it. Also in the face of studs being corroded in etcetra. That exhaust manifold came up a treat.🌟 🙂👍Be blessed.
Thanks Brother
Great Job, and what patience you have. That was a very stressful job you just completed and you remained calm in the face of a large storm. Ford should stand behind their products and do a recall on all 5.4 because of this problem. I am looking at a 3rd passenger side manifold replacement on my 2008 F150. The last 2 leaked after long trips pulling a heavily loaded large trailer at high RPM'S. When will the mayhem stop! I guess when I get rid of the Ford!
Nice and clean work....wish i had a mechanic like you.
They are out there brother, I work on them like they are mine
@@FordBossMe Hahaha,yes,they are out there...but it's a hard price to find them ;-)
Living in Northern Ontario i have done way to many of these manifolds than i care to remember . . Even did a couple on the 6.2 liter in a 2012 F-360 . Here is a tip i have found makes the 5.4 liter manifolds a little easier . Maybe you have tried this and maybe not .... I do not lift the motor straight up , instead i use a port-a-power ram and lift the motor on an angle for the side i am doing . I have found much more space to work as it also pushes the engine away from the frame and the one side higher than lifting from the center . Like i said , not sure if you ever tried this method but if not may be worth a shot . I worked flat rate for way too many years lol. Anything to make my job easier and faster i tried !
Sad that it is not only Ford this stud issue is happening to . Ram is snapping studs and they are more of a 3/8 stud size and GM is popping the heads off bolts too . Good video though so those who are not in our trade know what we go through . Take Care .....
Just another great video to show peeps at home. We do earn our money. Great job
These are the jobs that separate the men from the boys. Nice work Boss!
These are always tough
My newest tool in my box that I don't know how I lived without here in Massachusetts especially doing countless of these Ford rusted manifolds is my Venom HP induction heater from Induction Innovation's. Works amazing and great when CAN'T use a set of torches. ONLY heat's the metal parts you actually want to heat. In the event the studs snapped off flush with the head and can't weld a nut in the end and have to resort to drilling them I use my Pro Maxx template and easy peasy..
I've done these they are a nightmare on the expeditions extra cooler and ac lines in the way on the passenger side.
If the studs break they break go by each one and twist them off till they snap off. Weld a nut onto the flush stud and slowly turn that's what's helped me on triton motors. If you don't have a welder it's damn near impossible. Absolutely no room for a drill.
I would say pull the head, Constance Ford and all the other manufacturers had to have a big bright idea and stop using push rod engines
So instead of taking about an hour to pull ahead with your typical push rate engine and 3 peace timing chain
It would take you a day to pull the head with the VV t's
The 3v drawer, you are very organized. Yea, I figured you would have some difficulty with the work you were doing, but a BOSS just takes that 5.4 by the horns and grinds away until it gets done. I did a mix of your vids today while I was working. I learned a lot of stuff! Stay Blessed!
Thanks for supporting me I appreciate that
At 2:26 I got scared the head came off!!!! Nice work again !!!!
Tyvm
Nice job! When we built race engines, we would Helicoil the aluminum heads right away. What a job, but victory is yours.
Great video hope I never that much fun at work
Just a heads up...the ends of those studs are 3/16 and can be taken out with a socket that size..just spray with pb blaster, let sit, spray again, and again then turn clockwise a hair and then loosen them out. I did this with my 03 lariat and worked like a charm! Don't even have to mess with the nut that is on them which in my opinion helps decrease chances of breaking the studs..either way good job bro!
Nice Job! Usually when we do these, it's because several bolts have broken and the gasket has blown out. Usually have to do multiple extractions per side, some easier than others. Gotta love the challenge ✌
What a great tutorial! Terrific description, especially the focus on cleaning away the corrosion at the place where the stud and head exhaust surface meet.
Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn.
- Benjamin Franklin
Amen to that
Fun times for sure,thanks again for sharing your journey. I have thought about recording some of the jobs I do just so people can see how bad some of the engineering is on todays cars. I just this past week put an engine in a 2017 land rover sport,( I do mostly European and Asian work) fairly straight foward job with the exception of having to use a mirror to r&r the converter bolts,and the exhaust flange nuts being on backwards. Stupid designs cost time,but most just think we have a "special" tool for that,whereas there may well be,there isnt a tool box big enough to house all the special tools needed. And as a side note,it took 6 weeks to get a $15k long block for this rover,all because of poor engineering as far as coolant bypass tubes go,all hard plastic that can not take the heat,especially under the supercharger,three different tubes were leaking coolant,so a warning to those that do not repair your own vehicles,those warning lights serve a purpose,ignoring the engine overheat light in this out of warranty car cost almost 20k. And to the haters regarding this guy fixing his rusted old Ford,we dont know the back story of the truck,maybe it was his dad's or his pap's truck that left it to him,we do know a new truck will set you back 60k,throwing a few thousand at a vehicle that can get a few more years isn't a bad thing as long as that vehicle warrants the effort.
Oh I remember I was gonna have to replace the manifolds on my old man’s truck. I was dreading working on it because I was worried about the studs breaking and having to extract them. Well lucky for me his engine blew one day. So instead of manifolds I replaced his engine lol
must compliment you on your patience!👍 last time i Delt with rust like that was my 78 trans am the shackles were a nightmare of rust putting in the new leaf springs in.
Those are nasty, almost like the Ford rangers
Eckkk
Wish I knew this trick years ago.
Be Blessed.
THANX FOR HAVING PATIENCE.
GOOD JOB.
Lots and lots of it indeed
I noticed the new model F-150 and Expeditions, have incorporated more plastic splash shields. I swear that's why the manifolds, have so many issues. They were exposed to the elements.
I would have cussing my ass off on this effort, good job.
Tyvm
On my 3rd set of manifolds on my ‘05 5.4. What a pain.
These engines run too lean and fry the manifolds without hesitation.
I now use stainless headers and they are much improved but still not perfect.
I’ve given up hope on finding a set of headers that last more than 2 years.
Good job man I know it is a challenging job dealing with those studs.
I have a 99’ f250 4.6 that i replaced those manifolds on a while back. Pretty sure i snapped all studs to get manifold out. most were left with a stub to grab. I used a 90deg. drill and .050” drill bit to drill 5 or 6 spots around each stud to a depth of about 2 threads and sprayed. PB penetrant(24hr soak) to break them loose and remove with vise grips. Had to do a couple of welded nuts too.
Best bet with these is the shorty headers!
Factory supplied manifolds sure have come a long way and these look nice, especially when new!
@@jamesplotkin4674 They look like headers.
Congrats you slayed the dragon
Tyvm
I have been here many times! your lucky if you have a stud left to work with! I have had to use my welder and just weld a nut to what is left after removing manifold. sucy job!
I had to do that here
nice job. I learned a bunch from this one.
Thanks so much.
I used a pair of vise grip.. it worked out pretty well too
My dad's truck is starting to tick again, tons of other issues too. 07 F250XL with the 5.4. I am trying to convince him to ditch it.
Yup . 10 hrs to do passenger side. 6 out of 8 snapped on mine. Fun fun.
👀 I see that freeze off!
Great stuff
@@FordBossMe I discovered that stuff working on the 5.4 3 valve as well!
I have an 04 F150, 5.4 3V V8. Only 71K orig. miles but yeah, 17 years old. I'm getting quotes from 1700-2400 to replace the warped right bank exhaust manifold. I'm not sure on conditions of studs. I have no clue what to do. Now that it's pointed out, I can hear the clicking. Also have been smelling exhaust, especially on start-up, which I had chalked-up to being an old truck.
Thanks for posting. Top bolt starter is a mutha. did you put top bolt back in or just 2 bolts?
So I used a deep 10 mm quarter inch Drive Socket with a 6in swivel extension on 1/4 inch drive flex head ratchet and was able to get it nice and snug
Good way to remove and install top starter bolt is go through the wheel well over the frame rail and under the manifold. 13mm impact flex socket on a 3/8 impact swivel adapter(basically a double flex) on an 18inch extension. Works every time.
Just looking at the space you had to work with just gives me a headache and hand cramps
This job separates the pros from the wanna be true mechanics are you listening scotty? Another great video. Broken bolts just sucks and slow the job down from getting finished. Been there down that. Question are you using copper silicone on the threads on the bolts going into the f150 manifold? If so why? High heat? I just use never seize, is this wrong?
Bro pick up the lisle 71600 manifold kit, I have 1 and love it, it sets you up with everything you need to drill em out perfectly straight
I already have the big kittens that does all the engines from Lisle
I got a funny story that’ll make you wanna puke. Did this two years ago…but I took the cab off. My fucking shop got me Doorman manifolds. It’s back the manifolds are rotted and cracked [it’s a SALT truck] and the body now is so rotted the cab won’t come off……now I have to do it this way. Only good news the bolts will come out cause I did this already and extracted the broken studs couple years back. Lol cheers man 🍻
Did you raise the engine at all? You might have mentioned in a previous video but thought I’d ask! I’ve got a 2010 and gonna tackle this job over the summer
No I didn't raise the engine I don't believe so not on this one
Rust is why I love we moved to Florida!
Ahhh, a job well done is it’s own reward. 😎😔😎
Thanks
Just spit ballin here. What do you think about putting thread tape on the studs before screwing them into the head? I come from the class 8 diesel world which is dominated by cast iron, so antiseize works wonderful. When dealing with aluminum, it doesn’t always stop electrolysis though.
I've never even tried it or thought about it
Ugh. When i saw you opting for drilln, and thought No no no. Then saw the welded nut on the ones that broke. Attta boy
I do both just depends
The best. Always.
Afraid my manifolds need replacing too, exhaust leak. Won’t have you do it, rather have you do the other stuff first than make you go through all this crap again. Doubt you feel like touching a manifold stud for another year after this one.
I will still do it
if you think thats a bad job, try doing the manifold gaskets on a jag XJS V 12, original bloke went sick after 2 days on it and i spent the rest of the week doing it...never again thankfully.
when did this become a contest?
i bet it sucks for sure
...maybe I will just throw a heat shield over the top of mine to keep the fumes away from the cabin and call it good enough. 😂
Brothers truck has been doing that for at least 5 years, i just say the gas fumes and obnoxious tick is part of it’s “charm”
AND then ruin your head's? NOT smart man.. I've lost count of people like yourself who's vehicles I've then been tasked to fix, which also ends up being 2x as expensive as if fixed it in a timely manner.
@@wyattkranz2450 Yup and that leaking exhaust gas is literally eating away at the metal heads! If he ever does do them, chances are he will also be buying a set of heads and gaskets
How long does it actually take you? and how many hours do they actually pay you for?
The passenger side manifold is about a 9-hour job I only charged 7.5 hours because this is an old truck and I would hate to charge somebody what I could charge them maximum wise when I know the truck's not going to last but a few more years
@@FordBossMe that’s too bad you’re losing a little money
@@FordBossMe Ugh. Don't envy you on these kind of jobs. I'll take almost anything over broken bolts. I used the small torch tip and vise grips to get all the studs out of the one I did. Some people say oh the jobs make you a better mechanic. I'll pass. Exhaust shop guys can have these jobs.
Always enjoy your content
For some reason I found the nose-blowing noise at 2:28 hilarious. I think it just caught me off guard.
Lol
He was blowing all the rust dust out of his nose and lungs.
You would think auto manufacturers would be capable of producing exhaust manifold bolts that can be removed without breaking off.
when i watched part 1.i commented about allways 1 or 2 studs being a P I A. it never fails.it truely is a dreaded job.but well done rich.im sure there are some unpleasant outakes in editing as well.i didnt mean to jinx you when i commented earlier.i knew you had your work cut out for you.ive done it too many times.its never been easy.
Nice job bud looks good I had drill out half bolts on a International v 8 with emissions and oil cooler right next it I feel you to night be good night for chicken and beer 😎
For some reason cussing at bolts seems to help them cooperate! 😂
Good clean job well done. I'm sure there were some curse words edited out of the video?
Lots
Busted my head so much also
Really late lol but ive seen one guy at the shop i work at heat the head/stud and immediatley apply ice (or something very cold) and it will come right out. Maybe try it out next time
How much was the job? I’m thinking about getting this done how much should I expect to spend?
7hrs a side I think plus 600 in parts I believe
Did a 2012 f450 v10 3 weeks ago and let me tell you that was a nightmare doing it in frame. I was probably better off pulling the engine and fixing the studs on a stand vs in the truck, 10/20 were broken and most right in front of the spring towers. I was able to extract most of them but I think I had to drill out 4 that wouldn’t budge. Prob the worse setup to work on in my opinion.
Right angle drill and Pro Maxx template man!
@dieseldabz710 lisle 71600 and some good cobalt drill bits on my right angle drill was the winner for me. And the ones I could still grab was super easy with the ares 70016 stud extractor. Probably one of the best damaged stud extractors I’ve come across so far.
The only issues I’ve had with my ‘09 F150 5.4 FX4 since new have been the passenger side exhaust manifold and the a/c compressor clutch going out. It’s still a terrific low mileage truck in pristine condition. If I can ask a question? I’m getting ready to replace the fluids in both diffs, transfer case, tranny, and power steering. (For the second time since new) I’m torn between having a Ford dealer do the job using their Motorcraft fluids and top technicians or a good private shop do it who will use the proper Castrol synthetics. I like the idea of the Ford techs doing the work but I think I like the Castrol fluids better. Which would you go with?
The key is good clean fluid, you can't go wrong either way
@@FordBossMe Thanks, I appreciate the reply.
@@squangan both are great fluids
Did the passenger side manifold on my 5.4 3v in the driveway as an amature diy'er. Not fun! Broke 2 studs but thankfully not flush.
Hey I got a question to ask, I got a 2007 F-150 4.6L 150kmiles need to do the timing chain soon, I got practically all the front end components new from Ford since it’s going to be taken apart should I also do the roller rockers? As I heard there common to fail on the 5.4? But this is a 4.6 not sure. Thanks in advance for your advise
Honestly we don't replace the roller rockers and we never have an issue not doing it
Have you ever tried using an electric induction heater on the studs along with freezing to thermal shock the metal and break the rust bond?
Yes and no....super stubborn bolts yes
I have a 2012 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.0 with 179000 miles. Engine that's ticking. I've heard a few people say ticking is common for that engine. Could there be a problem with the manifold?
Yes or a rocker tick
Great job and video. 👍👍
Tyvm
Hi ford boss I was wondering why don't you recommend the other side exhaust manifold and do it too
It was already done couple years ago
I have to do both sides on mine. I’m considering pulling the engine to do it.
It's rough
Asking from inexperience, would it not have been easier to just pull the whole motor out for more working room?
Yes but then you have to charge the labor to remove and reinstall the engine and that's really not necessary and the customer is not going to pay it
@@FordBossMe makes sense! Thanks for the reply. From your opinion, the 5.4 motor or the coyote 5.0? I have a 16 f150 crew cab with it and the 6 speed.
What a nightmare.
Is there gonna be a follow up video on the Nissan Van engine sludge from hell motor?
Yes sir
@@FordBossMe very good. Was wondering what the end result was.
Someone sure is spending a lot of money on their rusted out, older body style F-150.
NOT everyone is rich and can afford new trucks every 2 years
@@dieseldabz7104 or, apparently, every 14 years.🤷♂️
What do you usually charge for this job? I have had it done twice and and it needs it again. grrrrrr
Pinned post explains
I appreciate that, it still doesn't tell me what you charged, I'm only asking because my dealer wants 2,300. I see it takes about 11hr or so. Just debating about having it done for a third time. Thanks,kyle
I replaced all the studs on both sides in a 4.6 explore sport Trac, that sucked
Frame looks pretty nasty for all that labour at the dealer. I do believe factory parts and dealer service is the best way to go. But around here shop rate for dealer is 150/hr vs 90 at a private mechanic, since this is a hoist job. I dare say this thing is clapped out to the point where I would take it for the cheaper labour rate. Hemi's break the bolts and make an awful mess like this too, already had the passenger side done but warranty job. Tried my best to break the drivers side under warranty but no luck LOL. I think it was glowing red hot often enough for close to a month LOL.
Whew, looks like that truck coulda used the "Chicago Crisco" undercoating....
Great video
Hope the owner appreciates how difficult a job that was.
Awesome job it will not come back you should fell good about that one glad it's not warranty.
Do you ever use any of the reverse type drill bits to remove?
Yep said it in the video
@@FordBossMe
I’m slow I missed that lol
Ever use the bg pentetrating spray? I beet the hell out of a rotor..guy put a baby spray of bg on it, I hit it one more time and it went flying . I didn't believe in it until then
Never have
@@FordBossMe don't try to buy it online, wait for a sales rep to come by..I think guys buy it and price gouge on ebay..it's not cheap but not those prices..I belive it is called in force 👍
A few times in my career I may have "brushed down" a few super stuck parts with r12. Yes, r12. Got stuck spark plug out once that way. Again, I may have done this
Fordtechmakuloco has the perfect how to budro on this. Its not a hard job to do if you know how to approach it and with the right tools.
I did a fine Job on this and have many more videos like it, Brian is good don't get me wrong but don't come here throwing another creators name around like they are God
Take it easy with that crap
If it was my vehicle could you swap out useing stainless so it doesn't happen again
Headers yes
So my truck is at the shop right now and I got an 08 5.4 f150 passenger manifold gasket leak. Guy calls ne after few hours saying he is tapping out because the fuel line is in the way and it’s seized and don’t want to try to remove it because it might break! I’m wondering is the fuel line actually in the way or is he just quitting because this is a hard job??? I’m frustrated about it because this job seems too major for anyone and I’m driving around with a gasket leak which stalls my truck every time I come into a stop 🤦♂️ HELP!!
The fuel line is nowhere near the manifold it indeed is a hard job so that may be why
@@FordBossMe thank you for replying brother. Yeah I thought that was the case when I saw your video 🤦♂️ unbelievable
@@LeeZ33 it's a tough job, book time calls for like 4.5hrs one side and it's more like 7hrs a side
Whats in your 3 valve drawer?
Left-handed Cobalt drill bits
Standard and Metric stud remover sockets
I have some box style metal Mac extractors looks like chisels but they're inserts you tap them in your Drilled hole to ectract and they bite in
I also have a set of Ryobi spiral extractors that gets tighter as you twist them in same as the Mac ones above
I have a full Master set of cobalt stubby 1/2 size drill bits
I have to have the heavy duty angle drill from Mac Tools
@@FordBossMe is the angle drill air power or battery and which is better? I want to get one for my tool box.
Started getting a headache just watching.
You should check out South Main Auto, Eric O lives in upstate N.Y. and he does these pretty regularly. The cars he works on make me cringe as to how bad they are corroded, but he gets it done. He is funny as S&#t too. Thanks for the great videos as well.
I know who he is lol....I just don't go to other channels honestly unless I'm invited or someone shares a link
Been to busy lately
We get the same corrosion and what not here in Illinois
I always just get the welder out before I start that job.