These are the updated Parts: Ford Racing Full Kit- amzn.to/2r85QBs Roller Followers (all model years) amzn.to/2r9zabs Lash Adjusters (2004) amzn.to/2r83WAO Lash Adjusters (2005-2014) amzn.to/2pFUDYw 5.4L 3v Repair Playlist- ruclips.net/p/PLnkaHoqfNwiFPohL7Hf9CAv-veTUzxQga
I have that triton 2004 5.4 3V, should I just do the cam phasers, timing chain and these all together, I have a slight ticking on & off, I have only used mobile 1; 5W-30...bought this brand new 170K miles. I love this truck & your vids are very useful thx👍
FordTechMakuloco l like yours videos they are the best, l have a concern about the PCV valve on 5.4 Triton engines if you have some information about it..thanks a lot !
I'm a full time tech going on 20+ years and I can count on 1 hand the number of techs if let fix my own vehicles and this guy is the real deal, great job on the videos, everything you are showing is correct, great job!
My 2007 navigator was ticking and 2 of my spark plugs ended up being loose. Thanks to this man here I’ve fixed this prone to breaking engine all by myself and I have no mechanical experience whatsoever. This man knows his stuff. And evidently I got lucky that my plugs were loose instead of being seized and stuck considering I have a 3 valve
Thanks for the good video. I went ahead and took out the camshaft on my pax side to inspect the lifters and rocker arms because I had a loud knocking noise at all rpms all the time. (Before I did this i changed the tensioners, solenoids, phasers, guides and still a loud knocking) Come to find that my rocker arm seized up completely. The bearing didn't just drop. It dropped and it locked up (a little cocked too). For info purposes it was the last intake valve on the pax side for #4 cylinder. Now I have no more knocking. Happy camper here.
Thank you for making these videos. I bought a 05 F250 from my work for $1k. When I first started it up it sounded like a diesel... I knew this was not got. I didn't know anything about the triton 5.4l, but because of your videos I've learned a bunch. My company took the truck out of service because it died in an intersection while towing. I changed the oil, replaced spark plugs and switched to 5w30. Runs much better. Next thing is the rocker arms.
Good vids you have, thanks for the info. I had a 2008 F150 FX4, supercrew, for work. My truck had over 700,000 + KM, when I sold it. No problems at all with engine, never had to work on the brakes. Only the upper ball joints had to replace. I am a FORD man my whole life, started on the farm. All my trucks have had over 700,000+ KM when I sold them. Currently my 2014 5.0 L, has just over 330,000 +KM, running good.
awesome vids brian,after letting my wife know how much that damn ticking noise just got the best of me every time i stopped at a light, did the job myself on my 2008 f250 4x4 super duty 5.4 triton at 120,400 miles after watching your complete walkthrough series and taking key notes,Cloyes timing kit-phasers from Freedom racing-Melling m360 oil pump which now holds a constant pressure at idle or across the rpm range-Ford vct's(updated version)BWD crank sensor since i was already there and would be a pain to do later-Ford lash adjusters, all 24,all Felpro gaskets,new serpentine belt and i always use the Motorcraft oil filter,have taken a few 5 hour trips to Va and back since and runs better than ever,my wife says thanks,she doesnt have to hear the ''F'' word at every idle.
Absolutely my favorite channel for Ford education. Thanks for all the content you provide. Your 5.4L timing chain series made me decide to pay my mech to do it, instead of me wasting an entire week's vacation on it. lol... Thanks!
Some people make more using their time else where and possibly avoid a disaster waiting to happen, these things should be left to those people who have teeth for it lol
I have a 2008 f 150, I'm starting to hear a clicking/rattling noise, very slight, I'm very new to mechanical stuff but I've learned a lot from your channel. You're a godsend, keep up thr good work and great videos.
My 2008 Expedition has 150k+ miles on it. After seing your videos I now understand my 5.4 3 valve much better. I do not have a knocking but have noticed a bit of a rough idle. I am taking it in to get the valvr covers pulled and the cams inspected. Knowledge is power and a good way to keep the purse strings loosened up. Thanks.
Great info. I can tell you and everyone else reading this, the info presented here will save your ass if you own a Daimler Chrysler OHC engine, the 3.7 and 4.7. They will fail in the exact same way, in fact they use the exact same lash adjuster as the Ford engines up until 08 when they changed them, they changed the followers in 05. Those engines will give the same symptoms as well, light ticking under the valve/cam cover and are also well known for kicking out the follower when the lash adjuster bleeds down during shut down. Start it up and out goes follower, if you're lucky it won't take out the head casting pedestal holding the lash adjuster. EDIT, I see the lash adjusters look like the revised ones Mopar used. The old ones had the oil feed hole in the side lower, the entirety of it was in the reduced OD in the middle of the adjuster body.
I looked at a ford f150 once, it had the 5.4 3. Valve triton, looked like a fair price. I went home and got on you tube. Did some research, needless to say I did not buy the truck. Lol....
*Its a shame the 5.4 3 valve is really getting a bad rap of a motor just top end and phasers issues with plenty of warning signs, did my spark plugs with no issues also not that hard of a fix if you're mechanically inclined with your guidance the best procedure instructions on RUclips.*
After researching this and being personally involved with this engine. My findings agree with those of Makuloco,. The cause of the failure will always be discovered to be the result of low oil pressure. There are two major underlying causes which contribute to the 5.4 3V engine issues 1) The oil pressure is measured by an electronic switch, which does not indicate actual engine oil pressure. 2) The Cam chain tensioners are where the engine starts to loose oil pressure as their gaskets fail. The failure is not an immediate loss of pressure but a gradual loss over time, which is why that loss in pressure creates significant damage in the upper valve train area, specifically on the RH or Passengers side of the engine. Therefore improvement would be to move to a mechanical oil pressure gage, and to replace all of the upper components related to engine timing and all of the components on the RH (Passenger) cylinder head when reacting to what manifests itself as a continual ticking noise. Even though some of those components on the RH cylinder head might appear acceptable, their loss of oil pressure will cause excessive wear and not replacing them while inside the engine will simply require their replacement within a few thousand miles. ..
Thanks for bringing such great info about pattern failures and part number revisions to the public. Very few youtubers provide this kind of inside info.
I recently did the full timing job on my 2007 Expy. Although all the followers & lash adjusters were good I replaced them anyway . I figured at nearly 200,000 miles it was good insurance to do so. Great video!
Thanks, after watching this video I recognized I was having the same issue with my 2008 F250. I had my local shop check it out and he was not sure what the issue was. I took it to the local Ford dealer and they found 2 rollers were shot and the cam was damaged. They replaced all the rollers, lash adjusters and put in a new cam. Fortunately I had a Ford extended warranty that covered all of it but $100. My truck has about 110000 miles on it. They say everything looks good. If I had not seen your video and been alerted to the issue, I most likely would have ignored the tapping until the motor blew. Thanks :-)
Your videos are simply awesome. Very thorough, not too much, not too little. My son's 2010 F-150 has a few of the issues you've detailed (bad phaser, ticking valvetrain) and we'll be tearing into it with confidence when the weather breaks.
Good shit. Very informative. I bought a used 07 motor with 19,000 miles and put that in. Was alot of work but sounded better than the 04 did .Ford wouldnt stand by my 04 because i did my own oil changes
This was throughly helpful. Thank you for breaking it down. I'm getting ready to fix this "knocking" issue with my dad and wanted to do my research before teaming up with him and taking my Expedition apart again. (Not for the same issue). This is subscribe worthy.
Having same issue and I am going to have a helper too. This is my first f150 with this motor. I bought it with 105k miles and it was a maintained government vehicle. 112k miles on it now and it's getting worse! I would get a Chevy, that's what I'm going back to. They don't make trucks with these stupid motors with phasers and extra parts to help with gas. Just a simple pushrod engine that gets the same gas milage without all that messy useless time adjusting system. Good luck!
Thanks for posting another good video to prevent the Ford dealerships from stealing the hard earned money from people's pocket. I really wish you would do a video on how to replace the timing chains and plastic guide tensioners on a 4.0 SOHC.
Engine comes out to do the timing chains with the 4.0 Fords put on an engine stand.There is a rear one too and it is a PITA to do with it in the vehicle.
Yeah, I already know it. It's the most horrible design that any auto manufacturer has ever come out with. I'm glad they finally fixed it in 2004.5 on the Ford Ranger.
GM is this way too and this is with the Chevy Traverse,Buick Enclave,GMC Acadia and the Saturn version with the well known POS 3.6 engine.Engine comes out from the bottom to change timing chains
I have an 03 Triton that I'm babying along with over 200K miles. I'll have to make my way over to Chicago to have you look mine over- it's making the usual engine noises, but if you listen closer you can hear the cam and the rocker/cam followers tapping quietly away. Planning on doing an upper engine inspect/repair/seal in the next year or so. Like I said, I should bring it over (I live in Iowa) and have you do a tune up and listen to it, haha.
Great, my bought new 50 miles away from started making that noise. Complained twice to them, they said that was normal. Now 14 years later with only 76,700 miles on it, peeps think it's a diesel at first. Sure glad I paid 40g for it. Love the truck, but way to many issues for the price I paid. Thanks for the video.
I have a what would you do question... Purchase an '04 F150 w/ 167K miles for $5800 and it just started tapping or '06 F150 w/ 126K miles for $9K. Take into account, you only have basic diy skills not the master tech you are. Great content and I've learned a lot watching you the past month since I started looking at Ford trucks! Thanks for your time.
It took me a while to realize this is my truck, haha but seriously Brian does an awesome job, I have had no problems since having this done, very affordable compared to other mechanics or dealership!
thanks brian, you seem to have all the faults of these engines ironed out. I see this truck has the dreaded cold air intake/ k&n air filter with the maf sensor killing oil on it. bad bad bad.
Hey dude. Appreciate all the help! I recently performed a timing swap and a full follower/lash adjuster replacement. What I found when i got inside was all the followers checked out perfectly fine. However, all but two of the lash adjusters had approximately 1/4” slop. I could lifter the plunger (not depress it) about 1/4”. Seems weird after what you showed on your videos. Problem, after reassembly I have a temporary tapping noise that is worse than before but it gets quiet after about 30 seconds. ?!?!?! seems like the lash adjusters are not holding pressure when the the engine has set for a bit. An immediate restart after it has been running yields no tapping. The parts I used were sold as a Ford factory kit but… I will say the truck had not been maintained very well and it pretty varnished up inside. Is there and oil additive that I could use in case crap got inside the new adjusters and help clean them maybe?? Any help is greatly appreciated. Getting ready to retire and was hope to geet another 175000 out of the truck.
tearing apart my 2006 F-150 4.6L Romeo 300,000 miles with a ticking that developed while traveling to Montana (sounds like a lash adjuster, everything in the engine is stock). I know you usually reference the 3v motors, I'm assuming the same characteristics apply to the followers, and adjusters on the 2v. Because of being out of state, and far from shops I was forced to just cringe and drive, the noise stayed the same and after all was said and done it had 1,200 miles put on it in 6 days. I am kind of assuming that since the oil pressure remained 30-40psi, and it didn't fly apart that my bottom end is still in tact. Made it back to Washington and I will start the upper VT teardown tonight, and I am going to do the chains, guides, melling pump, and tensioners also (like i mentioned 300K and all original). Hopefully I am on the right path of action, you are a stellar tech, and I enjoy your channel immensely. If you are curious I can reply back with what I find. Thanks again!! ~ Jeremy
Nice video. I like your approach you take in your videos. It's almost like the viewers are attending a mechanic's workshop or class. I like the examples you present here...they really give someone a good idea of what is really going on as a result of failed components. If you're ever planning on coming to Virginia on a fix-it tour, let me know! I have a 2004 F-150 I'd like you to take a look at. Cheers!
Hi really enjoy your videos very informative I have a 06 f 150 I need help with while driving in the highway my oil pressure gauge dropped and engine rattled and stopped I had two mechanic looked at it they said I need to change engine any thoughts it’s a 5.4 3 valve
I have a 1992 Ford escort with a 1.9 motor and it's a manual and every time I drive it loses power like it bogs down or when I first started the idle drops solo with a stall out on itself try to fix some things can't fix it need some help in the right direction
Hey would you please please please do a full tear down/ rebuild tutorial video on the 5.4 for poor people like me who's 07 expedition is dying but have no money to pay someone to do it for them. I got the truck from a friend for cheap and my wife is due any day now but I need my truck fixed but just can't afford it but I understand when you explain what your doing and actually trust you for a guide. Everyone please like this comment to get him to see it and you'd like to see a step by step video to rebuild one of these engines. Love your videos man and thank you regardless for all of your help with your channel
I can change my own oil and brakes and stuff but I'm not in Any way a mechanic so a idiot proof guide would be greatly appreciated for me. If I didn't live in Canada I would just take my truck to you directly to fix or if anyone on here has any suggestions on where to find such information I'd love you forever
he does have the complete walk through on the ticking issues and i understand on doing it yourself because of cost issues,i bought parts one at a time over e few months until i had what i needed to start and just kept watching videos and taking notes in between,a lot of patience and just do it,take pictures while you do it take notes of what you did and how,i layed out a large piece of cardboard,labeled and arranged stuff as it came off and in order
Been watching a lot of this guys videos for months now sploosh mcgoosh. In sort of same boat. Bought 09 with 5.4 Triton for price and having kids. I'm not a mechanic and one thing to watch for is this motor. Good or junk depending on who you ask but comes down to how many tools you need to fix the problem ($$). Also downtime. Can you get to work/school/etc. without the vehicle and not miss any work hours? He is a seasoned mechanic. A lot of us are not (why i watch these videos). Noticed that ford likes to require specialty tools sometimes to do repairs. Again, not many have the ten grand in automotive tools to do all this. Different then my 351 Windsor (kickass motor btw) on my 94 or 351 modified on 80 Bronco. Got 360 a month in payments and bad cam phasers that are beyond me. Newberg, OR Ford dealership said new crate motor cheapest way to go or your chasing failed parts all the time. Car payment or repairs?...I got 5.4 triton with vvt. I get both. VVT here to stay (thanks DEQ) so could be worth setting up.. Or get rid of it for something that doesn't take NASA to work on it
There is no point in rebuilding these engines. Even the replacement parts fail. Even rebuilt engines for $3,500.00 and crate engines fail. It is design failures. I would like to see a video for installing an older rebuilt 2 valve engine instead. My 07 F150 body is prefect just the drummer under the hood is the problem.
The aftermarket somehow many rebuild kits for the three valve motor I don't think, most people go to powertrain products and get one remanufactured for like $3,500 so if the truck cheap it would be worth it if the transmission and transfer case
Have you ever seen a collapsing lash adjuster causing a misfire on start up with no other sign of issue other that a check engine light? Doesn’t miss long enough to feel it. Could be cold or hot. Happens every 10 starts or so. Full timing job was done with all Motorcraft parts about 20k ago. New injector on the mentioned cylinder. All new OEM plugs and coils also. No valve train noise noted. Runs perfect other that the intermittent CEL.
Just bought a 2010 f150 with a 4.6l 3v, 6 speed, XLT. 146k on the clock. Weirdest ticking noise ever. It seems to only happen when warmed up, in drive, and just above idle (like just enough gas to maintain speed at like 30 mph). It's super quiet, like if I roll down the windows the wind drowns out the noise, if I rev the engine to 2 RPMs, can't barely hear it. Sound goes completely away when in park & when you take your foot off the gas while driving, sound instantly disappears... I've sat in the truck from the drivers and passengers side, and it seems to be on the driver's side more so then the passengers. The tick is very low tho, but it's deff there when I drive around for the day, I can hear it and it is driving me nuts. Had a mechanic look at it and he didnt hear it at all...
Great tips, Brian. Hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker arms are definitely on the checklist during an engine teardown/timing job. I still want to hear that truck run! Would the failed rocker arms show up on a manual compression test?
I would think not because it's failing open; not failing closed. Compression should still hold unless damaged valve seats. If I'm wrong.... School me please. I don't want to walk around with false ideas. Lol
FordTechMakuloco - Any thoughts on if bad hydraulic lash adjusters and/or bad rocker arms might be the cause of the "typewriter tick" on the F-150 and Mustang Coyotes ?
My 06 expedition has 220k and going.. chased a failing MSD coil and back in business. Changed plugs once, and injectors twice, 1 alternator, 3 batteries. If the truck gives up I'm puttin that 5.4 in a 56 F100.
Love the video and great detail, I've seen all the videos for the 3V noticed you talk about the lash adjusters, is there any way you can show or explain how to remove them since that can be bad as well causing the noice (tick tick tick) thanks man
I want to thank you for your Excellent videos! Your in depth, informative, "average joe" productions have served me well, as I own a 04 F150 Lariat 5.4L. Your HD productions have helped me in ways I can't fully list. Again, thank you very much!!
Excellent video man i was looking all over an explanation on how to tell if the lash adjuster is good or bad and nothing now two months later i found this vid thank you for the info great video
Great Videos and instruction. My wife's Expedition had a big clunk and stopped running the other day. Still not exactly sure what happened but I do know a rocker arm broke and the valve next to it has a bent stem. I don't see any other damage so I don't know if the timing skipped or the arm just flat out broke. I would think that if the timing chain jumped all the valves on that side of the motor would have damage but in this case just one cylinder had the issue. I guess the next step is to pull the head and see if the piston is damaged? 2009 5.4 3 valve with 125K by the way.
Hey I got one for ya! Just spent 10k and dropped a reman 5.4 3v in my f150 with a new flex plate and TC. Well something is knocking and at first I thought it might have been a manifold leak. Had them checked and nothing. Was told it was normal timing chain noise which I know from your videos IS NOT normal..... But where it sounds like it's coming from to me is around the bell housing area and where the new TC was installed. I don't hear the rattle near as much at the front of the motor as I do the rear between it and the trans somewhere. I just have a feeling im going to keep bringing my truck back over and over again just to be told it's normal and have to spend more money on top the 10k doing so. It really does sound like it's in the bell housing. I tried to scope ot with a screwdriver but haven't quite pin pointed the noise. Just the general location. Hoping it's not resonating from somewhere else. I still have yet to check my injectors and possibly starter. When I pulled the inspection plug to the TC the teeth looked fine as far as I can tell. Maybe my cats? They didn't make much sound when I scoped them. Like I said it also has a new flex plate. I'm at a loss here. Edit.... The reman also came with sprockets instead of phasers and a module to flash my computer with so it can't be due to cam phaser noise because it doesn't have any anymore. They're essentially what a lockout kit would accomplish.
Hi I live in Australia & have a 2003 Ford BA Ute with a 5.4ltr V8 3 valve engine & floor shift auto My question is when I first start the engine it is nice & quiet just nice V8 sound then after 3 or so minutes it starts getting rattle noise around top middle area of engine like tappets noise must be when oil warms up & gets thinner I imagine I recently changed the oil & filter & put in Penrite full synthetic 10W 40 which is thicker than recommended oil though I thought it would fix the rattle noise after start up it did help a little though not as much as I’d like & now really need your advice in what to do next Do I try even thicker oil? It has done 135,000 klm Looking forward to your help as I'm desperate to fix this noise, hopefully without pulling it down as it has not done many klm's I have searched your articles on the 54. Ltr 3 valve engine & have not seen a specific one for the engine being noisy after start up when oil warms up so would be a great one I believe for the wider community. 0:11 Thankyou regards Neil
183,000 very hard miles on mine, 5,000 mile oil changes, 2 sets of spark plugs, 2 sets of aftermarket coils, and a $150 special tool set that removes a separated spark plug tip in 5 minutes. Just ordered $112 worth of rockers and a $125 valvespring compression tool. It's more than oder designs, but it has more moving parts. Averaged 17 mpg new, gets 14 in its current state. My older trucks got 10 MPG, and my 3.0 ranger got 18. I have not complaints about the 5.4. I would also prefer a 5.0, but I wouldn't run from a 5.4
@@MrPami9899 , I bought ford OEM rockers, and did both banks. Not sure it needed it, but I had seen some pictures that scared me. Mine all looked decent when I removed them.
Is there a way to tell which lash adjusters are bad without removing anything? Like having base circle and checking for extra play on the adjuster side?
Not sure if you're still answering questions on this video but my 04 F150 has a ticking / knocking sound most days on startup. It's pretty loud. It goes away after warming up but will return if I shut the engine off for a few minutes and then restart it. I have read that it could be a lifter and that it could also be a manifold crack or warp. What's the least intrusive way to determine which it is? BTW - this channel has been great in helping me diagnose a lot of problems with my truck. Subscribed.
Can you make a video showing where the vacuum lines from to and from on this engine. I got in a rush replacing my intake manifold and I think I may have crossed lines. Thanks
Hi Brian, I was wondering if you could help me. I am installing a Ford timing kit with lifters and roller followers. I soaked the lifters in oil for 2 days. When I went to install them, some of them were not plunging hard. Is that normal? I watched your video and I was wondering if it ok to install them? And will they get harder when I start the engine? Thanks for your your help with this.
Hi, have a question....just bought a 2008 expedition with 165k on it......runs and drives excellent but on first start up after truck sits for a while it ticks for maybe 15 secs then stops....I've noticed if the truck sits it makes the noise....if I drive it then shut it off and come out half hr later it dosent do it....im guessing maybe the oil is draining ??
So I left you a message on one of your other videos to but this one was a lot more informative to my target information. At least I think it is is there anything I could do before tearing my truck open to know if that's what is making the problem I have for sure because I have a 4.6 L on a 2000 Expedition and it's coming from the left side of the engine and it sounds like it's coming from one of the wheels the belts are on but it's a ticking sound some guy just actually told me hey I think your lifters are going bad. If you don't want to answer my questions just ignore me and I will get the hint but you seem like the most knowledgeable out of all the videos I've watched so far on RUclips so I'd appreciate some advice but if you're too busy keep up the videos man they're very very good videos and very informative I appreciate you putting them out there for everybody
Hoping for a clarification on priming the new lash adjusters. I've been soaking in oil and pushing the plungers in every way i can think of for a week, and half my new lash adjusters still feel spongy and can be depressed more than the known good in this video. It feels like air is trapped in the lash adjuster. Are these new parts bad, or will they bleed down all the way once running in the engine? Also thanks so much for all your great videos, there is no way my truck would still be running without them!
I had a 2004 STX 4X4 F150 with 4.6L for 13 years until the transmission blew. I just picked up a 2015 F250 with 6.2L gas. Any comments, recommendations, or things to worry about? So far, it's pulling our camper great. The camper is a 28' travel trailer. dry weight is 6200lbs.
I'm in the same boat, told I need a new engine to the tune of 4 to 6 grand. O6 lariat 5.4l engine. Ford dealership in the area isn't worth a damn either.
Brian - Another awesome video Bruddah!! Would I be correct in thinking that these tests and checks in your video apply equally as well to the 4.6L 3V motors? I have the 4.6l 3v motor in my 2009 F150.
I would love it so much if you could please find out why the new 5.0 coyote motors like the one in my 2019 f150 ticks at idle. I was told it’s because of the direct injection but I call malarkey.
My truck is making the ticking noise on the passenger side, which through a stethoscope sounds like metal on metal banging. It doesn't get louder when I remove the oil cap. The car also seems to struggle to get up to RPM. Do you recommend that I pull the valve cover and remove all of the roller followers and check them for bearing slop as well as check the lifters in your video? Just wondering if there is any other way to diagnose exactly what is ticking before going through all of that work. Thanks for your videos they are great!
I have the tapping on low idle but when I’m rolling no noise! I just picked up this noise today! But drive 290 miles home at 80-90mph and she ran like a champ. What to do?
Hey man thanks for all the great detailed videos you put out there , I've watch and upgraded my f150 so that it would give me the best preforming truck on the road for its age . Aloha
I have been following your 5.4 series and accomplishing the job myself, thank you for such informative and helpful videos, you are a great teacher. Two questions I do have, prior to the job I though I heard some ticking sounds while driving along with the usual bad phaser/VCT sounds. All of the rockers were tight with no play and I did not have any unusual wear to the cams or rockers. Watching this to inspect the lifters/lash adjusters I can not push them down much but if I pull on them there is play, they definitely do not spring all the way up. Is this normal, I did not notice you pull or tug on the plungers, just push. They all act the same so I am inclined to believe they are good as it would be unusual for them all to be bad, correct? My other question is while removing the passenger side valve cover, I noticed three bolts sheared off, they are all pretty much flush with the block :( Know any good tricks to extract them?
Thank you for posting all the great videos they have been a huge help on this project , I have an 05 5.4 just turned 238,000 miles and really have been problem free to this point , I started having more pinging and valve train noise , was thinking worn cam journals , bad phasers , vvt,s , so I tore into it got the valve covers off and found that the very rear roller rocker on the left side, out and laying in the head , with the roller froze solid , I think I may have lucked out the cam looks great go groves or scratches on that lobe at all , looks like the roller froze and the cam just spit the roller follower out .My question is I should be just fine replacing all the roller followers only and not replacing the cams , is there anything else I should be looking for while I am in there ? thank you in advance for your help
Thank you so much I am currently rebuilding top of the vehicle where heads and those lifters I bought it with spun sprocket ended up going to junk yard find a good one waiting to find out plus I drove it before tear apart and yes I have failed lifters wow I didn't know how to determine now I know thank you so much;)
You are amazing! Very detailed, Thanks for sharing. I'm building a house in my backyard so you can move in, just take care of my 2006 Lincoln Mark LT. :-)
I have an 08 5.4 with an intermittent tick mostly noticeable when coasting to a stop on an off ramp but sometimes on slight acceleration would it be a follower?
Thanks! About to do the full chain and cam phaser replacement job with the help of your videos. Do I need to drain the a/c system to get the passenger cover off or is there a way to wiggle it by? (2005 f150 5.4)
These are the updated Parts:
Ford Racing Full Kit-
amzn.to/2r85QBs
Roller Followers (all model years)
amzn.to/2r9zabs
Lash Adjusters (2004)
amzn.to/2r83WAO
Lash Adjusters (2005-2014)
amzn.to/2pFUDYw 5.4L 3v Repair Playlist-
ruclips.net/p/PLnkaHoqfNwiFPohL7Hf9CAv-veTUzxQga
FordTechMakuloco. you are a wizard...love your videos..thanks..
FordTechMakuloco will this help the ticking on my ford fusion?
I have a 2000 Expedition Eddie Bauer Edition with the 5.4 and has over 209,000 miles on it. Did these have the same issue as the newer ones? Thanks
I have that triton 2004 5.4 3V, should I just do the cam phasers, timing chain and these all together, I have a slight ticking on & off, I have only used mobile 1; 5W-30...bought this brand new 170K miles. I love this truck & your vids are very useful thx👍
FordTechMakuloco l like yours videos they are the best, l have a concern about the PCV valve on 5.4 Triton engines if you have some information about it..thanks a lot !
I'm a full time tech going on 20+ years and I can count on 1 hand the number of techs if let fix my own vehicles and this guy is the real deal, great job on the videos, everything you are showing is correct, great job!
No kidding.
Where is he located I'm intrested in him working on my navigator..
@caliboyz 831 did you find out where his shop is located?
100% truth. 👍
My 2007 navigator was ticking and 2 of my spark plugs ended up being loose. Thanks to this man here I’ve fixed this prone to breaking engine all by myself and I have no mechanical experience whatsoever. This man knows his stuff. And evidently I got lucky that my plugs were loose instead of being seized and stuck considering I have a 3 valve
Thanks for the good video. I went ahead and took out the camshaft on my pax side to inspect the lifters and rocker arms because I had a loud knocking noise at all rpms all the time. (Before I did this i changed the tensioners, solenoids, phasers, guides and still a loud knocking) Come to find that my rocker arm seized up completely. The bearing didn't just drop. It dropped and it locked up (a little cocked too). For info purposes it was the last intake valve on the pax side for #4 cylinder. Now I have no more knocking. Happy camper here.
Thank you for making these videos. I bought a 05 F250 from my work for $1k. When I first started it up it sounded like a diesel... I knew this was not got. I didn't know anything about the triton 5.4l, but because of your videos I've learned a bunch. My company took the truck out of service because it died in an intersection while towing. I changed the oil, replaced spark plugs and switched to 5w30. Runs much better. Next thing is the rocker arms.
Good vids you have, thanks for the info. I had a 2008 F150 FX4, supercrew, for work. My truck had over 700,000 + KM, when I sold it. No problems at all with engine, never had to work on the brakes. Only the upper ball joints had to replace. I am a FORD man my whole life, started on the farm. All my trucks have had over 700,000+ KM when I sold them. Currently my 2014 5.0 L, has just over 330,000 +KM, running good.
I have an 06 with a 4.6L that has 330,00+ and a 2000 5.4L with 240,000+, both purr like kittens.
awesome vids brian,after letting my wife know how much that damn ticking noise just got the best of me every time i stopped at a light, did the job myself on my 2008 f250 4x4 super duty 5.4 triton at 120,400 miles after watching your complete walkthrough series and taking key notes,Cloyes timing kit-phasers from Freedom racing-Melling m360 oil pump which now holds a constant pressure at idle or across the rpm range-Ford vct's(updated version)BWD crank sensor since i was already there and would be a pain to do later-Ford lash adjusters, all 24,all Felpro gaskets,new serpentine belt and i always use the Motorcraft oil filter,have taken a few 5 hour trips to Va and back since and runs better than ever,my wife says thanks,she doesnt have to hear the ''F'' word at every idle.
How much did all of the parts cost?
@@remaxhudson a small fortune
YOUR MY GO TO GUY FOR MY 2004 F150 5.4L ENGINE
THANK YOU FOR BEING AN EXCELLENT TEACHER ON ALL LEVELS
Absolutely my favorite channel for Ford education. Thanks for all the content you provide. Your 5.4L timing chain series made me decide to pay my mech to do it, instead of me wasting an entire week's vacation on it. lol... Thanks!
Some people make more using their time else where and possibly avoid a disaster waiting to happen, these things should be left to those people who have teeth for it lol
I have a 2008 f 150, I'm starting to hear a clicking/rattling noise, very slight, I'm very new to mechanical stuff but I've learned a lot from your channel. You're a godsend, keep up thr good work and great videos.
Get rid of it!
@@MrTruckerf I love it though
One of the best jobs of sharing information that I have seen
My 2008 Expedition has 150k+ miles on it. After seing your videos I now understand my 5.4 3 valve much better. I do not have a knocking but have noticed a bit of a rough idle. I am taking it in to get the valvr covers pulled and the cams inspected. Knowledge is power and a good way to keep the purse strings loosened up. Thanks.
Great info. I can tell you and everyone else reading this, the info presented here will save your ass if you own a Daimler Chrysler OHC engine, the 3.7 and 4.7. They will fail in the exact same way, in fact they use the exact same lash adjuster as the Ford engines up until 08 when they changed them, they changed the followers in 05. Those engines will give the same symptoms as well, light ticking under the valve/cam cover and are also well known for kicking out the follower when the lash adjuster bleeds down during shut down. Start it up and out goes follower, if you're lucky it won't take out the head casting pedestal holding the lash adjuster. EDIT, I see the lash adjusters look like the revised ones Mopar used. The old ones had the oil feed hole in the side lower, the entirety of it was in the reduced OD in the middle of the adjuster body.
I looked at a ford f150 once, it had the 5.4 3. Valve triton, looked like a fair price. I went home and got on you tube. Did some research, needless to say I did not buy the truck. Lol....
*Its a shame the 5.4 3 valve is really getting a bad rap of a motor just top end and phasers issues with plenty of warning signs, did my spark plugs with no issues also not that hard of a fix if you're mechanically inclined with your guidance the best procedure instructions on RUclips.*
After researching this and being personally involved with this engine. My findings agree with those of Makuloco,.
The cause of the failure will always be discovered to be the result of low oil pressure. There are two major underlying causes which contribute to the 5.4 3V engine issues
1) The oil pressure is measured by an electronic switch, which does not indicate actual engine oil pressure.
2) The Cam chain tensioners are where the engine starts to loose oil pressure as their gaskets fail. The failure is not an immediate loss of pressure but a gradual loss over time, which is why that loss in pressure creates significant damage in the upper valve train area, specifically on the RH or Passengers side of the engine.
Therefore improvement would be to move to a mechanical oil pressure gage, and to replace all of the upper components related to engine timing and all of the components on the RH (Passenger) cylinder head when reacting to what manifests itself as a continual ticking noise. Even though some of those components on the RH cylinder head might appear acceptable, their loss of oil pressure will cause excessive wear and not replacing them while inside the engine will simply require their replacement within a few thousand miles. ..
Thanks for bringing such great info about pattern failures and part number revisions to the public. Very few youtubers provide this kind of inside info.
I recently did the full timing job on my 2007 Expy. Although all the followers & lash adjusters were good I replaced them anyway . I figured at nearly 200,000 miles it was good insurance to do so. Great video!
How much was the job in total if u dont mind me asking , bout to do it to my 250
@@jeffdavis3011 1200 easily.
Thanks, after watching this video I recognized I was having the same issue with my 2008 F250. I had my local shop check it out and he was not sure what the issue was. I took it to the local Ford dealer and they found 2 rollers were shot and the cam was damaged. They replaced all the rollers, lash adjusters and put in a new cam. Fortunately I had a Ford extended warranty that covered all of it but $100. My truck has about 110000 miles on it. They say everything looks good. If I had not seen your video and been alerted to the issue, I most likely would have ignored the tapping until the motor blew. Thanks :-)
My 2007 expedition just started making that noise the other day and I'm glad I found this thanks
Fixed my problem @ 246k mile; my 07 Navigator runs so quiet again! Thank you for your videos.
Brian, even after 7 years I enjoy your videos like it was the first time I saw it !
Great Job !
Your videos are simply awesome. Very thorough, not too much, not too little. My son's 2010 F-150 has a few of the issues you've detailed (bad phaser, ticking valvetrain) and we'll be tearing into it with confidence when the weather breaks.
Good shit. Very informative. I bought a used 07 motor with 19,000 miles and put that in. Was alot of work but sounded better than the 04 did .Ford wouldnt stand by my 04 because i did my own oil changes
This was throughly helpful. Thank you for breaking it down. I'm getting ready to fix this "knocking" issue with my dad and wanted to do my research before teaming up with him and taking my Expedition apart again. (Not for the same issue). This is subscribe worthy.
Having same issue and I am going to have a helper too. This is my first f150 with this motor. I bought it with 105k miles and it was a maintained government vehicle. 112k miles on it now and it's getting worse! I would get a Chevy, that's what I'm going back to. They don't make trucks with these stupid motors with phasers and extra parts to help with gas. Just a simple pushrod engine that gets the same gas milage without all that messy useless time adjusting system. Good luck!
Thanks for posting another good video to prevent the Ford dealerships from stealing the hard earned money from people's pocket. I really wish you would do a video on how to replace the timing chains and plastic guide tensioners on a 4.0 SOHC.
Engine comes out to do the timing chains with the 4.0 Fords put on an engine stand.There is a rear one too and it is a PITA to do with it in the vehicle.
Yeah, I already know it. It's the most horrible design that any auto manufacturer has ever come out with. I'm glad they finally fixed it in 2004.5 on the Ford Ranger.
GM is this way too and this is with the Chevy Traverse,Buick Enclave,GMC Acadia and the Saturn version with the well known POS 3.6 engine.Engine comes out from the bottom to change timing chains
I have an 03 Triton that I'm babying along with over 200K miles. I'll have to make my way over to Chicago to have you look mine over- it's making the usual engine noises, but if you listen closer you can hear the cam and the rocker/cam followers tapping quietly away. Planning on doing an upper engine inspect/repair/seal in the next year or so. Like I said, I should bring it over (I live in Iowa) and have you do a tune up and listen to it, haha.
Great, my bought new 50 miles away from started making that noise. Complained twice to them, they said that was normal. Now 14 years later with only 76,700 miles on it, peeps think it's a diesel at first. Sure glad I paid 40g for it. Love the truck, but way to many issues for the price I paid. Thanks for the video.
Your videos saved me so much time and your tips are top notch.
Wanna send a serious thank you.
Your the man.
Ticking like a time bomb. Just a matter of when.
I have a what would you do question... Purchase an '04 F150 w/ 167K miles for $5800 and it just started tapping or
'06 F150 w/ 126K miles for $9K. Take into account, you only have basic diy skills not the master tech you are.
Great content and I've learned a lot watching you the past month since I started looking at Ford trucks!
Thanks for your time.
I would not buy a 2004-2010 F150 5.4L, engine is too finicky; best to buy the 2011-2017 F150 types with 5.0 and 6 gear auto xmission
Great video. Damn I wish you were my neighbour, or better yet, my Son. 👍
Ian Hillman HEY... BACK THE TRUCK UP... I CALLED DIBS A LONG LONG TIME AGO!! 😂😎
Great tips Brian!!!!! Looks like you got the 5.4 covered from top to bottom.
It took me a while to realize this is my truck, haha but seriously Brian does an awesome job, I have had no problems since having this done, very affordable compared to other mechanics or dealership!
John Wyskochil where his shop at?
thanks brian, you seem to have all the faults of these engines ironed out. I see this truck has the dreaded cold air intake/ k&n air filter with the maf sensor killing oil on it. bad bad bad.
Hey dude. Appreciate all the help! I recently performed a timing swap and a full follower/lash adjuster replacement. What I found when i got inside was all the followers checked out perfectly fine. However, all but two of the lash adjusters had approximately 1/4” slop. I could lifter the plunger (not depress it) about 1/4”. Seems weird after what you showed on your videos. Problem, after reassembly I have a temporary tapping noise that is worse than before but it gets quiet after about 30 seconds. ?!?!?! seems like the lash adjusters are not holding pressure when the the engine has set for a bit. An immediate restart after it has been running yields no tapping. The parts I used were sold as a Ford factory kit but… I will say the truck had not been maintained very well and it pretty varnished up inside. Is there and oil additive that I could use in case crap got inside the new adjusters and help clean them maybe?? Any help is greatly appreciated. Getting ready to retire and was hope to geet another 175000 out of the truck.
tearing apart my 2006 F-150 4.6L Romeo 300,000 miles with a ticking that developed while traveling to Montana (sounds like a lash adjuster, everything in the engine is stock). I know you usually reference the 3v motors, I'm assuming the same characteristics apply to the followers, and adjusters on the 2v. Because of being out of state, and far from shops I was forced to just cringe and drive, the noise stayed the same and after all was said and done it had 1,200 miles put on it in 6 days. I am kind of assuming that since the oil pressure remained 30-40psi, and it didn't fly apart that my bottom end is still in tact. Made it back to Washington and I will start the upper VT teardown tonight, and I am going to do the chains, guides, melling pump, and tensioners also (like i mentioned 300K and all original). Hopefully I am on the right path of action, you are a stellar tech, and I enjoy your channel immensely. If you are curious I can reply back with what I find. Thanks again!! ~ Jeremy
Nice video. I like your approach you take in your videos. It's almost like the viewers are attending a mechanic's workshop or class. I like the examples you present here...they really give someone a good idea of what is really going on as a result of failed components. If you're ever planning on coming to Virginia on a fix-it tour, let me know! I have a 2004 F-150 I'd like you to take a look at. Cheers!
Thank you for the highly useful information! I'm in the process of changing my 5.4 2V Lightning lash adjusters and this helps me a lot.
Hi really enjoy your videos very informative I have a 06 f 150 I need help with while driving in the highway my oil pressure gauge dropped and engine rattled and stopped I had two mechanic looked at it they said I need to change engine any thoughts it’s a 5.4 3 valve
I'm likely about to go in and change the VCT solinoids on my 4.6 so I'll definitely be checking these parts while im in there.
I have a 1992 Ford escort with a 1.9 motor and it's a manual and every time I drive it loses power like it bogs down or when I first started the idle drops solo with a stall out on itself try to fix some things can't fix it need some help in the right direction
I don't think I'll ever own another Ford, but for some reason I can't stop watching your old videos, ha ha. Well done.
spelunkerd Isi
Hey would you please please please do a full tear down/ rebuild tutorial video on the 5.4 for poor people like me who's 07 expedition is dying but have no money to pay someone to do it for them. I got the truck from a friend for cheap and my wife is due any day now but I need my truck fixed but just can't afford it but I understand when you explain what your doing and actually trust you for a guide. Everyone please like this comment to get him to see it and you'd like to see a step by step video to rebuild one of these engines. Love your videos man and thank you regardless for all of your help with your channel
I can change my own oil and brakes and stuff but I'm not in Any way a mechanic so a idiot proof guide would be greatly appreciated for me. If I didn't live in Canada I would just take my truck to you directly to fix or if anyone on here has any suggestions on where to find such information I'd love you forever
he does have the complete walk through on the ticking issues and i understand on doing it yourself because of cost issues,i bought parts one at a time over e few months until i had what i needed to start and just kept watching videos and taking notes in between,a lot of patience and just do it,take pictures while you do it take notes of what you did and how,i layed out a large piece of cardboard,labeled and arranged stuff as it came off and in order
Been watching a lot of this guys videos for months now sploosh mcgoosh. In sort of same boat. Bought 09 with 5.4 Triton for price and having kids. I'm not a mechanic and one thing to watch for is this motor. Good or junk depending on who you ask but comes down to how many tools you need to fix the problem ($$). Also downtime. Can you get to work/school/etc. without the vehicle and not miss any work hours? He is a seasoned mechanic. A lot of us are not (why i watch these videos). Noticed that ford likes to require specialty tools sometimes to do repairs. Again, not many have the ten grand in automotive tools to do all this. Different then my 351 Windsor (kickass motor btw) on my 94 or 351 modified on 80 Bronco. Got 360 a month in payments and bad cam phasers that are beyond me. Newberg, OR Ford dealership said new crate motor cheapest way to go or your chasing failed parts all the time. Car payment or repairs?...I got 5.4 triton with vvt. I get both. VVT here to stay (thanks DEQ) so could be worth setting up.. Or get rid of it for something that doesn't take NASA to work on it
There is no point in rebuilding these engines. Even the replacement parts fail. Even rebuilt engines for $3,500.00 and crate engines fail. It is design failures. I would like to see a video for installing an older rebuilt 2 valve engine instead. My 07 F150 body is prefect just the drummer under the hood is the problem.
The aftermarket somehow many rebuild kits for the three valve motor I don't think, most people go to powertrain products and get one remanufactured for like $3,500 so if the truck cheap it would be worth it if the transmission and transfer case
Have you ever seen a collapsing lash adjuster causing a misfire on start up with no other sign of issue other that a check engine light? Doesn’t miss long enough to feel it. Could be cold or hot. Happens every 10 starts or so. Full timing job was done with all Motorcraft parts about 20k ago. New injector on the mentioned cylinder. All new OEM plugs and coils also. No valve train noise noted. Runs perfect other that the intermittent CEL.
Just bought a 2010 f150 with a 4.6l 3v, 6 speed, XLT. 146k on the clock. Weirdest ticking noise ever. It seems to only happen when warmed up, in drive, and just above idle (like just enough gas to maintain speed at like 30 mph). It's super quiet, like if I roll down the windows the wind drowns out the noise, if I rev the engine to 2 RPMs, can't barely hear it.
Sound goes completely away when in park & when you take your foot off the gas while driving, sound instantly disappears... I've sat in the truck from the drivers and passengers side, and it seems to be on the driver's side more so then the passengers.
The tick is very low tho, but it's deff there when I drive around for the day, I can hear it and it is driving me nuts. Had a mechanic look at it and he didnt hear it at all...
Great tips, Brian. Hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker arms are definitely on the checklist during an engine teardown/timing job. I still want to hear that truck run! Would the failed rocker arms show up on a manual compression test?
I would think not because it's failing open; not failing closed. Compression should still hold unless damaged valve seats. If I'm wrong.... School me please. I don't want to walk around with false ideas. Lol
FordTechMakuloco - Any thoughts on if bad hydraulic lash adjusters and/or bad rocker arms might be the cause of the "typewriter tick" on the F-150 and Mustang Coyotes ?
My 06 expedition has 220k and going.. chased a failing MSD coil and back in business. Changed plugs once, and injectors twice, 1 alternator, 3 batteries.
If the truck gives up I'm puttin that 5.4 in a 56 F100.
Love the video and great detail, I've seen all the videos for the 3V noticed you talk about the lash adjusters, is there any way you can show or explain how to remove them since that can be bad as well causing the noice (tick tick tick) thanks man
I want to thank you for your Excellent videos! Your in depth, informative, "average joe" productions have served me well, as I own a 04 F150 Lariat 5.4L. Your HD productions have helped me in ways I can't fully list. Again, thank you very much!!
Is there any way to replace lash adjusters without removing the cam? Loosen?
Great information. I'd never tear into my own this deep, but if I had this issue, I'd know what to expect at the repair shop. Thanx for posting.
Thank you FordTech for the information !!!
I have a Ford 250 and I was thinking it was the lifters, never knew these could cause that still learning
I'm always applying the great information to other makes. Thanks for posting these in depth engine analytics.
Excellent video man i was looking all over an explanation on how to tell if the lash adjuster is good or bad and nothing now two months later i found this vid thank you for the info great video
Great Videos and instruction. My wife's Expedition had a big clunk and stopped running the other day. Still not exactly sure what happened but I do know a rocker arm broke and the valve next to it has a bent stem. I don't see any other damage so I don't know if the timing skipped or the arm just flat out broke. I would think that if the timing chain jumped all the valves on that side of the motor would have damage but in this case just one cylinder had the issue. I guess the next step is to pull the head and see if the piston is damaged? 2009 5.4 3 valve with 125K by the way.
Does the bad roller follower cause the engine to shake? Can it cause a P0346 code?
i was getting the ticking sound after i shut off the engine on right side valve cover. ill take a look at these, thank you!
Hey I got one for ya! Just spent 10k and dropped a reman 5.4 3v in my f150 with a new flex plate and TC. Well something is knocking and at first I thought it might have been a manifold leak. Had them checked and nothing. Was told it was normal timing chain noise which I know from your videos IS NOT normal..... But where it sounds like it's coming from to me is around the bell housing area and where the new TC was installed. I don't hear the rattle near as much at the front of the motor as I do the rear between it and the trans somewhere. I just have a feeling im going to keep bringing my truck back over and over again just to be told it's normal and have to spend more money on top the 10k doing so. It really does sound like it's in the bell housing. I tried to scope ot with a screwdriver but haven't quite pin pointed the noise. Just the general location. Hoping it's not resonating from somewhere else. I still have yet to check my injectors and possibly starter. When I pulled the inspection plug to the TC the teeth looked fine as far as I can tell. Maybe my cats? They didn't make much sound when I scoped them. Like I said it also has a new flex plate. I'm at a loss here.
Edit.... The reman also came with sprockets instead of phasers and a module to flash my computer with so it can't be due to cam phaser noise because it doesn't have any anymore. They're essentially what a lockout kit would accomplish.
yea bud great job on the video you deff are the real deal and great teacher. id let you work on my truck or vehicle any day.
Great freakin videos! I can sit and watch these for hours.
Great video! Should the lifters still not collapse even if the engine has been sitting for a month or a couple years?
If a furd ain’t tickin it ain’t running right lol 😂
Ya mine is ticking during idle and when I’m driving. Louder at idle. Very rhyming sounding tick.
How much would you charge to replace a set with the kit you mentioned in the pinned comment? What is timing to do the job?
Hi I live in Australia & have a 2003 Ford BA Ute with a 5.4ltr V8 3 valve engine & floor shift auto
My question is when I first start the engine it is nice & quiet just nice V8 sound then after 3 or so minutes it starts getting rattle noise around top middle area of engine like tappets noise must be when oil warms up & gets thinner I imagine
I recently changed the oil & filter & put in Penrite full synthetic 10W 40 which is thicker than recommended oil though I thought it would fix the rattle noise after start up it did help a little though not as much as I’d like & now really need your advice in what to do next
Do I try even thicker oil?
It has done 135,000 klm
Looking forward to your help as I'm desperate to fix this noise, hopefully without pulling it down as it has not done many klm's
I have searched your articles on the 54. Ltr 3 valve engine & have not seen a specific one for the engine being noisy after start up when oil warms up so would be a great one I believe for the wider community. 0:11
Thankyou regards Neil
Just lost a supposedly brand new engine to this didn't make it 30 miles after install and prime
Let me guess, power train products?
Maybe I should dump this damn truck and get a 5.0 F150
my 2013 5.0 had 1 roller rocker with pitting. loud ticking from rear passenger side. warranty covered it though thank god.
klatoo14 I have the 2014 STX 5.0 and it's awesome.
183,000 very hard miles on mine, 5,000 mile oil changes, 2 sets of spark plugs, 2 sets of aftermarket coils, and a $150 special tool set that removes a separated spark plug tip in 5 minutes. Just ordered $112 worth of rockers and a $125 valvespring compression tool. It's more than oder designs, but it has more moving parts. Averaged 17 mpg new, gets 14 in its current state. My older trucks got 10 MPG, and my 3.0 ranger got 18. I have not complaints about the 5.4. I would also prefer a 5.0, but I wouldn't run from a 5.4
@@davidnation4437 what brand rockers did you get? Did you do both banks
@@MrPami9899 , I bought ford OEM rockers, and did both banks. Not sure it needed it, but I had seen some pictures that scared me. Mine all looked decent when I removed them.
Great videos! You're knowledge on this engine is so helpful.
Is there a way to tell which lash adjusters are bad without removing anything? Like having base circle and checking for extra play on the adjuster side?
Not sure if you're still answering questions on this video but my 04 F150 has a ticking / knocking sound most days on startup. It's pretty loud. It goes away after warming up but will return if I shut the engine off for a few minutes and then restart it. I have read that it could be a lifter and that it could also be a manifold crack or warp. What's the least intrusive way to determine which it is? BTW - this channel has been great in helping me diagnose a lot of problems with my truck. Subscribed.
You are an asset, my good man. I appreciate your videos.
Do you have a video of how to change all the lifters?
08 expedition here , today i checked oil level and it has metal shavings shiny like glitter ...
What's your opinion on the lash adjusters and followers on the coyote engine. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for all the help could you do one on taken out in detail the cam on a 5.4
Can you make a video showing where the vacuum lines from to and from on this engine. I got in a rush replacing my intake manifold and I think I may have crossed lines. Thanks
Hi Brian, I was wondering if you could help me. I am installing a Ford timing kit with lifters and roller followers. I soaked the lifters in oil for 2 days. When I went to install them, some of them were not plunging hard. Is that normal? I watched your video and I was wondering if it ok to install them? And will they get harder when I start the engine?
Thanks for your your help with this.
Hi, have a question....just bought a 2008 expedition with 165k on it......runs and drives excellent but on first start up after truck sits for a while it ticks for maybe 15 secs then stops....I've noticed if the truck sits it makes the noise....if I drive it then shut it off and come out half hr later it dosent do it....im guessing maybe the oil is draining ??
So I left you a message on one of your other videos to but this one was a lot more informative to my target information. At least I think it is is there anything I could do before tearing my truck open to know if that's what is making the problem I have for sure because I have a 4.6 L on a 2000 Expedition and it's coming from the left side of the engine and it sounds like it's coming from one of the wheels the belts are on but it's a ticking sound some guy just actually told me hey I think your lifters are going bad. If you don't want to answer my questions just ignore me and I will get the hint but you seem like the most knowledgeable out of all the videos I've watched so far on RUclips so I'd appreciate some advice but if you're too busy keep up the videos man they're very very good videos and very informative I appreciate you putting them out there for everybody
Hoping for a clarification on priming the new lash adjusters. I've been soaking in oil and pushing the plungers in every way i can think of for a week, and half my new lash adjusters still feel spongy and can be depressed more than the known good in this video. It feels like air is trapped in the lash adjuster. Are these new parts bad, or will they bleed down all the way once running in the engine?
Also thanks so much for all your great videos, there is no way my truck would still be running without them!
Hi I had my timing chain and cam phasers done but did not do these do you have to take the cam out to remove these thank you love your videos
I got 05 ford expo 3v that doesn't hold compression I have to go in there and replace Something on the exhaust valve your videos are helpful
Excellent Demo...Greetings from India..
I had a 2004 STX 4X4 F150 with 4.6L for 13 years until the transmission blew. I just picked up a 2015 F250 with 6.2L gas. Any comments, recommendations, or things to worry about? So far, it's pulling our camper great. The camper is a 28' travel trailer. dry weight is 6200lbs.
What’s a ballpark figure on a complete job like this ??? I have a 06 Ford F-150 Lariat
I was just quoted $1100 parts and labor by experienced mechanic.
Not counting oil pump. New motor $3495.00. Not too bad either way really.
I'm in the same boat, told I need a new engine to the tune of 4 to 6 grand. O6 lariat 5.4l engine. Ford dealership in the area isn't worth a damn either.
Brian - Another awesome video Bruddah!!
Would I be correct in thinking that these tests and checks in your video apply equally as well to the 4.6L 3V motors?
I have the 4.6l 3v motor in my 2009 F150.
I would love it so much if you could please find out why the new 5.0 coyote motors like the one in my 2019 f150 ticks at idle. I was told it’s because of the direct injection but I call malarkey.
I have a 2008 F-150 with the 5.4L and I'm experiencing similar knocking sounds and loss of power. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
My truck is making the ticking noise on the passenger side, which through a stethoscope sounds like metal on metal banging. It doesn't get louder when I remove the oil cap. The car also seems to struggle to get up to RPM. Do you recommend that I pull the valve
cover and remove all of the roller followers and check them for bearing slop as well as check the lifters in your video? Just wondering if there is any other way to diagnose exactly what is ticking before going through all of that work. Thanks for your videos they are great!
I have the tapping on low idle but when I’m rolling no noise! I just picked up this noise today! But drive 290 miles home at 80-90mph and she ran like a champ. What to do?
Did you find out?
Hey man thanks for all the great detailed videos you put out there , I've watch and upgraded my f150 so that it would give me the best preforming truck on the road for its age . Aloha
I have been following your 5.4 series and accomplishing the job myself, thank you for such informative and helpful videos, you are a great teacher. Two questions I do have, prior to the job I though I heard some ticking sounds while driving along with the usual bad phaser/VCT sounds. All of the rockers were tight with no play and I did not have any unusual wear to the cams or rockers. Watching this to inspect the lifters/lash adjusters I can not push them down much but if I pull on them there is play, they definitely do not spring all the way up. Is this normal, I did not notice you pull or tug on the plungers, just push. They all act the same so I am inclined to believe they are good as it would be unusual for them all to be bad, correct?
My other question is while removing the passenger side valve cover, I noticed three bolts sheared off, they are all pretty much flush with the block :( Know any good tricks to extract them?
2 years late but, if you can't drill tap them out then a quick weld if a nut in the flush stud works awesome
Thank you for posting all the great videos they have been a huge help on this project , I have an 05 5.4 just turned 238,000 miles and really have been problem free to this point , I started having more pinging and valve train noise , was thinking worn cam journals , bad phasers , vvt,s , so I tore into it got the valve covers off and found that the very rear roller rocker on the left side, out and laying in the head , with the roller froze solid , I think I may have lucked out the cam looks great go groves or scratches on that lobe at all , looks like the roller froze and the cam just spit the roller follower out .My question is I should be just fine replacing all the roller followers only and not replacing the cams , is there anything else I should be looking for while I am in there ? thank you in advance for your help
Thank you so much I am currently rebuilding top of the vehicle where heads and those lifters
I bought it with spun sprocket ended up going to junk yard find a good one waiting to find out plus I drove it before tear apart and yes I have failed lifters wow I didn't know how to determine now I know thank you so much;)
You are amazing! Very detailed, Thanks for sharing. I'm building a house in my backyard so you can move in, just take care of my 2006 Lincoln Mark LT. :-)
Great video. your videos have helped me solve a lot of my trucks engine problems and save me a ton of money
I have an 08 5.4 with an intermittent tick mostly noticeable when coasting to a stop on an off ramp but sometimes on slight acceleration would it be a follower?
Thanks! About to do the full chain and cam phaser replacement job with the help of your videos.
Do I need to drain the a/c system to get the passenger cover off or is there a way to wiggle it by? (2005 f150 5.4)