F-250 5.4L Truck- Exhaust Manifold Removal - Broken Studs
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2019
- An overview of the procedure showing the failure modes of the manifold studs that was encountered and how they were rationalized for removal in this particular case. The idea was to use the least intrusive method of each failure mode, with a backup plan should that method be unsuccessful.
Thanks Jeff. I used your procedure to do the work on my F250 5.4L 3v and it wasn't a walk in the park but much better than the alternatives. Thank you so much !!
Very happy to hear this Stephane, glad to have helped !
Jeff thanks for the tip on removing the coil mount!! It made it so much easier.. I cut all the studs and welded nuts on everyone one they came off like a charm. I found it worked better with a Xtra heavy nut it held slot more heat
Excellent video. This Answered a question I had about studs breaking and how to remedy. As a grandson of a self taught (8th grade education) Engineer/WWII Combat Engineer/farmer/fabricator/problem solver, I too am a lifelong learner of anything mechanical and amateur mechanic, former Army Blackhawk Crewchief, your mechanical, problem solving and, logical/critical thinking skills are apparent. Continue to share your knowledge as your very thorough, yet not so much to become monotonous, and vocally easy to understand.
Hi Chad.....thank you very much for your kind words...You have an extensive, impressive career and I'm honored that my clip was inspirational to helping you. I will continue bringing new adventures as they come....I'm also self taught, a farm boy at heart, and a engineering professional in automotive. I appreciate the experience of learning something new every day, ....no one can ever know everything....openness in learning is very contagious!!
Thanks for your time and expertise. I spent yesterday gathering parts and equipment to tackle this. I am a Blacksmith and Metalsmith. I have my Oxy-Acetylene torch and my Mig welder ready. While studying the exhaust assembly I was thinking I would have to remove the exhaust pipe "T" from both sides for access but removing the coil and shock assembly seems like a great idea! I'm 65 and also have some trouble with my hand dexterity and vision but that's what reading glasses are for! If I get frustrated I'll try to hold back on swinging my 7 lb. Hammer at it. Hahaha
Hi Tim, thanks for your feedback. My dad also a blacksmith and I have a few of my own smithing skills. This method in my opinion is way easier than other options for an obvious out of warranty repair. A little timely, but not bad. Also, a great open view to work in. I used Grade 8 bolts for the rivet replacements. Still hold strong and no issues. Take your time with the extractions, you'll be happy you did....( while you're at it, check the other manifold. You can save time by doing it now, if bad. All your tools are out, and the only obstacle then would be the steering gear assy.)
I try to edit my verbal comments when my children, wife, mother are nearby and the frustration level reaches critical, like replacing the starter for my dear son outside on the ground on the coldest day this year. Why did Ford make that third bolt impossible to reach without some special tool, that I didn't have access to?
Awesome video. You gave me great hope that I can get this done on my '97. Most shops won't touch it so hoping to knock it out myself. Thanks.
Great job, very informative, thank you, mechanics can be very satisfying work when time is on your side, maybe one day I’ll have that pleasure, however the patience you showed is a must even if times working against you
Thank you very much! It was an interesting project, and I'm quite happy you enjoyed viewing what I knew many technicians are under the time clock to achieve with top results.....Best wishes to you!
Great video, thanks. Excellent tips. Wish you would have shown taking the coil tower off, that definitely looks like the way to do it and would have helped for sure.
Bill, with a another pair of hands to be a videographer, I would certainly show that. It was a bit of a grinding task to knock out the rivets, and of course taking the tension off the spring wasn't really that bad using a spring compressor....and appropriate jack support. Glad to have given you another alternative, and best of luck on your repair...Jeff
great job! excellent narration... thanks for sharing
Thank you,,, very glad it helped!
Hey great video! Very informative
I'm glad to have helped you, Brandan......hope it all worked out for you :)
Good video, only thing i didnt like was the use of those ratchet style safety jacks, i have had couple slip over the years, i use the pin style, much better at least so far. thanks for posting the video i enjoyed it
Excellent feedback, thank you....I since this video am not using ratchet pawl type jacks for heavy work or being underneath....The Harbor Fgt. fiasco is scary, the one you see is the heavy one but still leaves doubt, so again, glad I could help you :)
Thank you very much for this. I will do the exact dame thing. I have watched all the vids too, and wondered if somebody did it this way. It just makes sense, as now you can bolt the tower on, like it should have been in the first place. By the way, if you do a timing job on your 5.4, flitch plate and drill both sides of that radiator cross bar and take it out along with the radiator and the hood latch and bracket. You can slide a platform right up to about 8 inches from the engine and sit in there to do the work. Us old timers gotta do what we gotta do. Im 77 Aug 14th. The end of those studs take an e7 torx socket I think.
I still have the truck and the tower hasn't budged 4 years later......glad to have helped you too
@@jeffb1344 I was kind of surprised you didn't get that dipstick tube out of your way right after the towers. That damned thing was really in the way when I was installing the new roller followers on cyl 3 and 4. Tip: put in a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil at every oil change. I did a complete timing job at 157k but really did not have to. Your truck looked great, Hope it goes on and on and on. I assume you have changed the fuel pump modulator. If not, you better. They fail from poor design, aluminum against steel. Easy job, use stainless steel all-thread and stand it off from the frame. I also assume you have changed all fluids, and did the trans overdrive refurb described by Brian over at Fordtechmakuloco. That kid is damn good. Thanks again for the great video.
@@jima3129 I was going to move it and just didn't at first glance.....have done all fluids and factory maintenance.... Except spark plugs, lol. That's next, along with followers and lifters (got a noisy one at startup). May do front timing components and increased volume oil pump, and VCT sprockets. Truck now has 145k.
@@jeffb1344 OMG you have not changed the PLUGS????? I did first change at around 60k, second at around 125k. You better get the lisle extraction tool, you are going to need it. I cut three small grooves in the left handed extractor, made it like a tap so it would grab better. This really worked. Put a full can of berrymans B12 in the tank for around three refills before starting, and take them out hot. Oh and DO NOT use anything but motorcraft plugs going back. Put nickel anti-seize on the barrel and a bit on the threads. Good luck, you're going to need it. If you break a plug, once you push the ceramic down, use an air wand right down to the top of the piston and blow the heck out of the cylinder. Brakleen, let set, and repeat. Of course, wear safety squints. The plugs might be the most annoying thing about this engine, I mean, it isn't as if we haven't had spark plugs for a hundred and 20 years, and Ford screws them up.
If you are going to do a timing job, you are definitely want to watch Brian's 4 Part series on doing this. In later vids he says how important it is to change the roller followers. Do the lash adjusters too. AND FOR HEAVENS SAKE, USE ALL OEM MOTORCRAFT PARTS. I CANT STATE THIS ENOUGH. I replaced everything up front. PS pump, Alternator, tensioner, all idler pulleys. I used fel-pro gaskets because I have never gotten a bad product from them they fit great. I installed the melling 360 hv oil pump also. I am certain this engine will go at least another 150k. And the first 150k were put on the truck over 19 years, many while I was still working. If you do this timing job, do what I said, cut out that radiator support bar. I made a platform out of 2x4's and plywood 2 ft wide by 8 foot long. I stapled a garbage bag onto the platform to prevent splinters in the ass, and I could roll my legs right into the engine compartment. "Top side creepers" are bullshit. Good luck.
liquid wrench soak for 6 hours, twice, then heat followed by liquid wrench or kroil, then repeat a few times, then try to turn toward right as if to tighten bolt to break it loose, then left, repeat 10 more times, heat, again, more kroil, another 10 hour soak, repeat as many times as you can to match the intensity of your desire to not snap a stud... I'd say 3 days is about right. the more times you leave time intervals between these steps, the better, you let the thing make noise for weeks, so take your time setting up a successful job, now is not the time to get in a hurry, it will just leave you with days of work , tow truck and $1,000 shop bill
Wish mine were that easy on my 5.4 2v, studs seemed to be cross threaded or stretched to the point where welding multiple nuts on the stud and using a cutting torch to heat it for 2 days. won't remove even 1 stud out of the 3 that are stuck. Purchased the Lisle 71600 guide plate to drill out the studs incase anyone else has the same problem as me to where it's impossible to remove and needs to be drilled and retapped
man oh man your lucky...... I had a few that broke off, had to drill them out, I use heat now, a lot easier, great job
FIrst time thru, it was a little intimidating for sure!😁
@@jeffb1344 I bet it was, for me as well, keep up with the great work.
To bolt the spring hanger on what size of bolts did you use and did you use grade 8 bolts or what grade did you use ? Thank you
Good question.... absolutely grade 8, coated... got them at tractor supply.....size I can't recall exact now but were equal to existing hole diameter of I think 5/8
A few minutes devoted to filming the removal of the tower would have been very helpful to the novice such as myself
I agree, and I assumed it to be intuitive. Thank you for your suggestions !
I love it
I think you made more work than you had to. I would have basically left the manifold, exhaust flange and studs in place. I would clean and build up the broken stud end with weld metal using TIG, weld a nut on the end, extracted the broken stud and replace it with a new one and lived with the leak attempting to reverse the warpage by periodically tightening the nut.
Interesting......Have you performed this remedy before?
One problem with that is the gasket is guaranteed to be burned away and the head and the manifold are likely eroded away, conclusion: it'll never seal.
I probably would tried an impact on breaking those bolts loose. Seems the way you did was the highest probability of damage
If you have an opportunity to try, please video....Always open to suggestions
Why you don't heat them bolt up so be more easier for you to finish faster
Why would you use a torque wrench and not a breaker bar to remove the bolts
I was measuring breakaway torque on the initial turn to get an idea of how "stuck" they were. I would NEVER use a torque wrench as a substitute for a breaker bar. I stated in the video the lbs required on several ones.
Also put never sees on the bolts and they will always come out
i have worked on f150/ f250 expedition with same problems ,broken head studs. Just save your self alot of time and pull ENGINE out of the top, to do a better job.
That's nice.
That opens up a new host of problems. This gave him a LOT of room. I thought at first "OMG" but it was easier than fighting I bet.
@@lesliehorwinkle Which are you referring to?
@@jeffb1344 pulling out an engine to change a manifold.
@@lesliehorwinkle Yes, going thru the side way easier, of course a dealer wouldn't do it like that perhaps, but I don't see the value of pulling an engine for a manifold.
I need mine on 1971 Ford 360 done
I would've just used an air ratchet with a deep well socket with map gas, and a lot of penetration oil to break em loose, if needed use a black oxide drill bits, and a tap and die set to get em out, if they don't break flush to the block I will apply heat and use pliers to extract it out.
Matt, thanks for your suggestions.....Worth a try and another idea to address the various failure modes of fasteners.
I got a lot of views here so, others will benefit from your comment.
Thanks again!
@@jeffb1344 I'd also recommend liquid wrench it's best penetrating oil ever made it saved me more time than pb blaster has, also another good idea would be use a plasma cutter as well.
i got an 05 f150 that needs both replaced they are pretty rusted on there. any idea what thats gonna cost?
4K minimum
@@ApEsXiT shut up bro
Not sure if you’re still looking for an answer but I was quoted $1350 for both manifolds
@@Mtomscha thankss
I ordered the manifolds for 5.4 they’re under $100 and go to a guy that knows how to weld a nut to provide torque to a stuck bolt. I got this done for under $200 in labor plus big tip to my guy. So like $500 all in
why would you not just lift the side of the engine up.theres room
There is limited clearance at the cowl. I also did not have equip to "lift" engine