Seems like the AMS is just really handy and almost a requirement for easy, no mess or pain prints. Thank you much for your video, you taught me more than several others. ❤
Exactly. It's a manual process and if you only have a couple of filament changes it's not too bad, but if you have many changes it becomes a big chore. Thank you for watching and commenting.
At first I was thinking "Why would anyone need this if they have an AMS?" Then I read your description. This would work perfectly for TPU since you shouldnt run that through the ams. Nice video as always.
Really appreciate this. I've had a Prusa Mk2.5 for YEAAAAARS, and finally upgraded to a basic A1. 99% of my prints are single color but it would be nice to every once in a while have the top layer of a black or dark color print have white text or maybe the other way around. Now this video is nearly a year old so maybe there is a slightly more automated way to do this? But doing it manually doesn't seem too bad. Cheers!
@@ashleys3dprintshop Aye awesome and thanks for the reply. Will be trying a change at some point soon. Right now just trying to get through a bunch of old filament.
Normally I would say there isnt much of a downside for most filaments. There is a potential issue with "low temp" filaments. If you use the load/unload filament there is a potential issue of a clog. The load/unload heats the nozzle to 250C, albeit briefly and some low temp filament cooks in the hotend. Not a firehazard or anything just a potential clog. I saw it twice with TPU and a wood filament but it was a very rare occurrence. The last reason would involve a few cents worth of filament waste or needing to purge more during dark/light color swaps. Excellent question. 😊
@@ashleys3dprintshop Great video Ashley, very insightful. I will try to do the color change, but using the load/unload feature of my P1S as suggested by bluefin66... I am using basic pla from Bambu labs, so I think there will be no issue with the temperature...
@@Jookeerrsomeone asked for a full manual change demonstration.. It's especially helpful, on a p or x series if you block the cutter part, to get the full 256 cube area, that the exclusion area blocks. Otherwise load/reload works fine. 😊 Thank you.
With text I think it’s better to model an indent and add color, but swapping filament is nice for bigger chunks of a print that you want in a different color
Hello. It can be done...with a huge caveat. You would have to manually pause the print and swap filament. The slicer can only pause at layers starts which will cause a single layer bump out. So ideally an AMS works best, manually way or make the color parts separately and assemble.
Seems like the AMS is just really handy and almost a requirement for easy, no mess or pain prints. Thank you much for your video, you taught me more than several others. ❤
Exactly. It's a manual process and if you only have a couple of filament changes it's not too bad, but if you have many changes it becomes a big chore.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Thanks! Especially for the step sheet. Made it easy to do a screen grab for when i actually do the filament change. 😉 😜
Glad I could make it easier!
At first I was thinking "Why would anyone need this if they have an AMS?" Then I read your description. This would work perfectly for TPU since you shouldnt run that through the ams. Nice video as always.
Exactly!
Really appreciate this. I've had a Prusa Mk2.5 for YEAAAAARS, and finally upgraded to a basic A1. 99% of my prints are single color but it would be nice to every once in a while have the top layer of a black or dark color print have white text or maybe the other way around.
Now this video is nearly a year old so maybe there is a slightly more automated way to do this? But doing it manually doesn't seem too bad. Cheers!
Yes you can just hit the unload filament button,
I went with the manually way in this case as i'm a glutton for punishment. lol.
@@ashleys3dprintshop
Aye awesome and thanks for the reply. Will be trying a change at some point soon. Right now just trying to get through a bunch of old filament.
Is there a downside to using the printer menu to "unload"/"load" filament and then resume, instead of setting temps and retracting/extruding manually?
Normally I would say there isnt much of a downside for most filaments. There is a potential issue with "low temp" filaments.
If you use the load/unload filament there is a potential issue of a clog. The load/unload heats the nozzle to 250C, albeit briefly and some low temp filament cooks in the hotend. Not a firehazard or anything just a potential clog. I saw it twice with TPU and a wood filament but it was a very rare occurrence.
The last reason would involve a few cents worth of filament waste or needing to purge more during dark/light color swaps. Excellent question. 😊
@@ashleys3dprintshop Great video Ashley, very insightful. I will try to do the color change, but using the load/unload feature of my P1S as suggested by bluefin66... I am using basic pla from Bambu labs, so I think there will be no issue with the temperature...
@@mikepollux That would certainly be easier if you are using filament with similar temps. 😀
Why are you changing filament manually? I always go to menu / feeding / unload and then load when another color is ready to load.
@@Jookeerrsomeone asked for a full manual change demonstration..
It's especially helpful, on a p or x series if you block the cutter part, to get the full 256 cube area, that the exclusion area blocks.
Otherwise load/reload works fine. 😊
Thank you.
With text I think it’s better to model an indent and add color, but swapping filament is nice for bigger chunks of a print that you want in a different color
Excellent tip
Keep up the great videos.
Thank you very much. Got a bunch more planned out. 😁
What about the K value and filament settings?
They are not the same for every roll.
So helpful! thanks man
Thank you for watching and commenting. 😀
how u print the same but whitout bump? 2 colours on the same layer?
Hello. It can be done...with a huge caveat.
You would have to manually pause the print and swap filament. The slicer can only pause at layers starts which will cause a single layer bump out.
So ideally an AMS works best, manually way or make the color parts separately and assemble.
@@ashleys3dprintshop i have ams, but i want to prit tpu .. :\
Waffle Waffle for 4 minutes before getting to the subject. Very painful to watch.
Thanks for the feedback.
There are time stamps
0:15 basic steps
3:30 slicing
4:30 swap colors
6:53 settings