0:01 Intro 1:40 Sink into build plate 2:50 Fill hole 4:55 Create hole/void 7:00 Remove text/logo inside a model with negative part 10:02 Fill in part with primitive and assemble 12:57 Results
I liked the method from another blogger - Nights Around a Table, he showed how to remove and add logos and text from surfaces of stl files in Blender, but your methods are also interesting, thank you for the tutorial
Thanks for the tip. I need to check that out. I have immersed myself so much in the slicer I and surprised how many "non optimized" tricks work. I'm actually glad there are a bunch of ways to reach a similar conclusion so there is no right /wrong way as long and the end result is acceptable.
@@MindChamber why do 0 to 100% when I only have to do less than 5%. If a car dealer put their crappy license plate cover on your car do you rebuild a car from scratch or you do you just replace it?
@@MindChamber So you are in agreeance. But I'll take it one step further. Free or paid stl once it reaches my slicer I am free to do what I want with it. (respecting licenses of course). If I want to chop it up, enlarge it or remove a logo, add my own etc. So if I run into a model that allows remixing or just needs attribution if I upload an altered version its all fair game. Obviously we arent talking about selling anothers work, but modifying to my needs.
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I’m relatively new to this stuff coming from basic tinkercad options I can’t seem for the life of me figure out how to create a live negative cut say a cylinder whole without having to slice the plate for preview. So I can work with the live active part in Bambu studio. I’m sure I have the concept wrong thinking it’s as simple as merging negative parts in tinkercad and immediately seeing the cut action etc….is this even possible in BS? Thanks for the help…
Apologies for the late reply but I was working on a video that hopefully can help. You can make live changes to models but there is a drawback. ruclips.net/video/z4l75T6jliA/видео.html
Will do. 😁👍Question I have for you. Do you primarily use a phone or pc to watch videos? I get a mix of "sounds is fine" and sound too low. Depending on your answer I can tweak the settings for future videos.
I got a question, I’m trying to cut sword sheath because it’s too be for bambu to print hole problem is when I cut it , it auto fills where I cut I need it to stay hollow so the sword can slide in I’m lost been trying to figure this out, any way to make a cut and the object doesn’t fill the void where the sword goes ?
Hey hey thanks for reaching out. There are a few options. Option 1. Do this in *objects process* and you can make adjustments to each part separately. A. In the *strength* tab set the number of walls in *wall loop* to your desired number. Thick will be stronger of course but make it too thick and the sword may not fit. B. Remove top or bottom shell layers. Set it to zero. Whichever is giving you issues. This will remove the top(or bottom) layer and leave the rest alone optional: set infill set to zero if the rest of the model is solid Or Option 2. Make your own hole yourself with a negative part and cut. The hole will stay with the cuts. ruclips.net/video/YwwJ6m9BAbc/видео.html This video goes over the general steps. but I think Option 1 may be a bit easier since it is a sheath and you only have issues with the top layer. If you run into any issues I am here.
You can attach parts together by holding ctlr and clicking each partm, then right clicking and assembling them or merging parts. This may be helpful. ruclips.net/video/iShPKJsA48Y/видео.html
@@MrHitThatLiks No worries. Make sure you select at least 2 items then right click. It will either be *assemble* for the older versions of studio or *merge* for the latest version. I left this video on the other comment but here is the direct part ruclips.net/video/iShPKJsA48Y/видео.html
Every time I try to move my part up or down (to control the depth of the cut), it just keeps resetting back onto the bed. Clearly I'm missing some setting somewhere.
Not directly in slicer with the tools available. You could theoretically import a thread/screw stl place it in the model and make a negative. Kludgy method but possible.
What are you talking about? There is no fill holes command in bambu studio, unless you talking about....something else. 😏in which case...which command gets them holes filled...?
Indeed there is. I'm happy to have more knowledge about this slicer than a youtube as I use this for business now. SPECIAL Mode, SLICING MODE, CLOSE holes@@personwomanmancameratelevision
Ah I see. I know exactly which setting you are referring to. Under bambu studio/orca slicer global process/ under the others tab This video goes over filling different types of gaps/holes. For instance @ 1:40 . If the option is selected it would fill the logo but block the parts that fit the feet boots of the model @ 3:08. Also the collapsible katana @10:30 would fill the entire handle and "override the collapsible "blade" and make it infill. @11:19 It is good for closing gaps between within models though it's just that these particular models needs the fill in one particular area instead of the whole model. I could still try to incorporate this setting in future videos though. 😁 Thank you for commenting. 🙂 Every piece of info is helpful.
0:01 Intro
1:40 Sink into build plate
2:50 Fill hole
4:55 Create hole/void
7:00 Remove text/logo inside a model with negative part
10:02 Fill in part with primitive and assemble
12:57 Results
just now starting 3D printing with my brand new A1. Very detailed and clear explanation of the BBL studio. thanks
Thank you very much. I hope the A1 is treating you well.
This was so helpful!! I have been trying to fill magnet holes on a project for an embarrassingly long time!
Glad I could help! Thank you watching and commenting. I have many facepalm moments trying to get things working, but when things come together...🤯
I am only a couple weeks into working in 3D printing and this filled in so many gaps (no pun intended) of what I needed to know. Thank you so much!
Hey hey, thank you very much. I'm glad to help.
So incredibly helpful! Thank you so much! Your tutorials have saved me so much time.
😁Thank you very much for that. I'll try to keep them coming.
To aid positioning, I use camera presets, Ctrl-1 for top view, Ctrl-2 for bottom, etc.
great tipp!
Excellent tip. Thank you for helping everyone.
@@Wuuzzaaful I should say it more often but our community is awesome.
this saved me so much problems I was having with downloading bad models with uneven surfaces
Excellent. 😀Glad I could provide a solution. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Very good video. Keep up the good work
Thank you very much! More to come. Anything you want to see on the channel or just keep posting what i have?
this helped so much damn so simple Subscribed thanks for the help!
Thank you very much. 😊
great info!!!! i really needed to see this! thanks!
Thank you. I may revisit the topic as there are some additions things you can do.
I liked the method from another blogger - Nights Around a Table, he showed how to remove and add logos and text from surfaces of stl files in Blender, but your methods are also interesting, thank you for the tutorial
Thanks for the tip. I need to check that out. I have immersed myself so much in the slicer I and surprised how many "non optimized" tricks work.
I'm actually glad there are a bunch of ways to reach a similar conclusion so there is no right /wrong way as long and the end result is acceptable.
So helpful!
Thank you for watching and commenting. Love the username. 😁
Freakin A. You don't know what this means. So many models with crappy logos that I can remove. THANK YOU. Subbed, with notifications. Keep it up!
Thanks for the sub! It's a topic I havent seen covered. Hope it helps
if crappy logos are a problem you could already just model the item yourself
@@MindChamber why do 0 to 100% when I only have to do less than 5%.
If a car dealer put their crappy license plate cover on your car do you rebuild a car from scratch or you do you just replace it?
@@No0o0o0o0o0 If Im paying for that car then yes.. as long as you are paying fairly for someones model and hard work, then yah, go to town.
@@MindChamber So you are in agreeance. But I'll take it one step further. Free or paid stl once it reaches my slicer I am free to do what I want with it. (respecting licenses of course). If I want to chop it up, enlarge it or remove a logo, add my own etc.
So if I run into a model that allows remixing or just needs attribution if I upload an altered version its all fair game.
Obviously we arent talking about selling anothers work, but modifying to my needs.
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I’m relatively new to this stuff coming from basic tinkercad options I can’t seem for the life of me figure out how to create a live negative cut say a cylinder whole without having to slice the plate for preview. So I can work with the live active part in Bambu studio. I’m sure I have the concept wrong thinking it’s as simple as merging negative parts in tinkercad and immediately seeing the cut action etc….is this even possible in BS? Thanks for the help…
Apologies for the late reply but I was working on a video that hopefully can help.
You can make live changes to models but there is a drawback.
ruclips.net/video/z4l75T6jliA/видео.html
what about removing text or logos from curved edges like from a 5mm thick cylinder, any thoughts on that?
Love the tipps! Please bump up the mic volume!
Will do. 😁👍Question I have for you. Do you primarily use a phone or pc to watch videos? I get a mix of "sounds is fine" and sound too low. Depending on your answer I can tweak the settings for future videos.
@@ashleys3dprintshop sound is too low on a PC for me. I normally watch RUclips videos at about 50% volume, I had to bump it to about 80% to hear you.
I got a question, I’m trying to cut sword sheath because it’s too be for bambu to print hole problem is when I cut it , it auto fills where I cut I need it to stay hollow so the sword can slide in I’m lost been trying to figure this out, any way to make a cut and the object doesn’t fill the void where the sword goes ?
Hey hey thanks for reaching out. There are a few options.
Option 1. Do this in *objects process* and you can make adjustments to each part separately.
A. In the *strength* tab set the number of walls in *wall loop* to your desired number. Thick will be stronger of course but make it too thick and the sword may not fit.
B. Remove top or bottom shell layers. Set it to zero. Whichever is giving you issues.
This will remove the top(or bottom) layer and leave the rest alone
optional: set infill set to zero if the rest of the model is solid
Or
Option 2.
Make your own hole yourself with a negative part and cut. The hole will stay with the cuts.
ruclips.net/video/YwwJ6m9BAbc/видео.html
This video goes over the general steps. but I think Option 1 may be a bit easier since it is a sheath and you only have issues with the top layer.
If you run into any issues I am here.
how do i make the hole attach to the part and assemble it together in order to be able to clone it?
You can attach parts together by holding ctlr and clicking each partm, then right clicking and assembling them or merging parts.
This may be helpful. ruclips.net/video/iShPKJsA48Y/видео.html
@@ashleys3dprintshop awesome thanks for the reply, i wanna say the merge option wasnt coming up, i’ll look into it!
@@MrHitThatLiks No worries. Make sure you select at least 2 items then right click. It will either be *assemble* for the older versions of studio or *merge* for the latest version.
I left this video on the other comment but here is the direct part
ruclips.net/video/iShPKJsA48Y/видео.html
Every time I try to move my part up or down (to control the depth of the cut), it just keeps resetting back onto the bed. Clearly I'm missing some setting somewhere.
I hope this helps.
ruclips.net/video/rt9k13gQGs8/видео.html
@@ashleys3dprintshop Hey thanks, I'll check it out!
can you make the holes that are threaded?
Not directly in slicer with the tools available.
You could theoretically import a thread/screw stl place it in the model and make a negative. Kludgy method but possible.
like a virtual bolt/screw? but if i make it negative like in your video then that should work..hmmmm@@ashleys3dprintshop
5:00 make a hole
This is NOT how you fill holes. There is a fill holes command. SPECIAL Mode, SLICING MODE, CLOSE holes
I love learning new(to me) techniques. Where is this "fill holes command" Maybe I can incorporate it in a future video. 🙂
What are you talking about? There is no fill holes command in bambu studio, unless you talking about....something else. 😏in which case...which command gets them holes filled...?
SPECIAL Mode, SLICING MODE, CLOSE holes @@ashleys3dprintshop
Indeed there is. I'm happy to have more knowledge about this slicer than a youtube as I use this for business now. SPECIAL Mode, SLICING MODE, CLOSE holes@@personwomanmancameratelevision
Ah I see. I know exactly which setting you are referring to. Under bambu studio/orca slicer global process/ under the others tab
This video goes over filling different types of gaps/holes. For instance @ 1:40 . If the option is selected it would fill the logo but block the parts that fit the feet boots of the model @ 3:08. Also the collapsible katana @10:30 would fill the entire handle and "override the collapsible "blade" and make it infill. @11:19
It is good for closing gaps between within models though it's just that these particular models needs the fill in one particular area instead of the whole model. I could still try to incorporate this setting in future videos though. 😁
Thank you for commenting. 🙂 Every piece of info is helpful.