Cut Your 3D Printing Time In Half!
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- Learn how to decrease printing time and reduce filament usage with these slicing tips in my 3D printing tutorial for Bambu Studio. Perfect for optimizing commercial 3D printing and printing items in bulk, these settings will enhance your efficiency and productivity.
I have used these settings and techniques on my own 3D printing farm in the past to achieve faster prints and cost savings. These tips hopefully streamline your workflow and boost your 3D printing performance as well.
If you found this tutorial helpful and want to support my content leave a like or comment below!
You're interested in my 3D printing files or a commercial license? Visit my website at:
🔗 factoriandesigns.com
Social Media and all my 3D designs at:
factoriandesigns.com
Thank you for watching! 
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I dont usually stop to comment on these sorts of videos but yeah this was good!
This is quite possibly the most useful video that RUclips’s recommended to me in a hot minute. Thank you!
Came here to say this ^ - True story
@@adamweldon also came to confirm, algo loves me today
It's a shame you don't explain the reasons behind unticking some options and how did you get to your line width calculations
You are right, I could have explained some things in more detail. Thank you for the feedback.
As for the linewidth, a general rule of thumb is not to go wider than around 1.5 times your nozzle width. With a 0.4 mm nozzle, that is 0.6 mm.
For this print, with 3 walls and standard settings, you get 0.42 mm + 2 x 0.45 mm = 1.32 mm.
If you use 2 walls with 0.6 mm, you get a 1.2 mm thick wall, which is nearly the same as before with 1/3 less distance traveled. Two thick lines also tend to be stronger than three thin ones, even if you have the same total wall thickness.
Everything above 0.6 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle can lead to problems while printing. If you still want wider lines, you are probably better off using a bigger nozzle.
I hope that helps. Anything else in particular you have questions about?
@@Factorian_Designs this is really helpful additional information, thank you! And excellent video
Two settings that I also didn't give enough explanation to are:
"Ensure vertical shell thickness" and "avoid crossing walls."
These can have a significant impact on your printing time as well as quality. If enough people are interested, I will make a future video about when and how to use them correctly. I will probably showcase them on my most optimized model, which I have literally printed thousands of times.
@@Factorian_Designs as someone completely new to 3D printing it's helpful having the information split across multiple videos anyway. Only so much information I can absorb at once, going over a couple settings and explaining what they do, when to use them, pros / cons, would be perfect! My main takeaway from this video was that we can create geometries to selectively change infill, along with other settings.
Even just seeing you scale and move the geometries is helpful. I've scaled prints down a bit to fit my A1 mini, but I don't know what I'm doing, it's useful seeing someone else interact with the slicer.
@@Factorian_Designs that will be awesome
excellent video! Thank you for helping us save time and filament.
WOW! Fantastic video, incredibly practical and useful. Can’t wait to see more of what you put up. THANK YOU for all the time and filament you’ve saved me!
Short and to the point. Really good video. Keep it up 💪
This information is gold. Thank you for sharing!
You are welcome, I am glad it helped you!
Excellent video. I'm going to try it on my next print using Orca slicer. Just subscribed to your channel. Keep up the great work.
Rather than use modifiers, Prusa slicer has Lightning and Support cubic infills which basically print at 0-5% when you dont need them and then ramp up to whatever you set (20% for me) when they need to support features like the top layer.
also, for mass production, I would just design the pieces with hollow walls and solid top/bottoms and then just print at 100% infill so you never have to worry about the settings.
Some really useful tips, especially using modifiers - not just clickbait after all 😊
Gamechanger for light boxes! Good work 👍
Awesome information. Can't wait to try with my new A1. 😁
Im glad I came across your video. Great and useful content. Thanks
Vase mode does not necessarily mean poor quality parts. Use a larger nozzle and print wider walls for vase mode. I only occasionally sell stuff locally, but I've never had complaints with various vases printing .8mm to 1mm line widths.
I've printed shockingly strong trash bins (285x285x320) with a 0.6mm volcano nozzle in vase mode and limited flow to 16mm3/s. You can kick it around no problem 😅
On the flip side, I printed a sock hamper in vase mode with a 0.4mm nozzle and even though it feels "strong" for how thin it is, it's definitely flimsy 🥲
I haven't tried going thicker than normal on 0.4mm in a long time, when I do it's to make parts stronger with solid infill. Near mold like, I'm talking about breaking parts over and over and never breaking on the layer lines. Secret sauce, over extrude for the infill, not just make it wider and only part cooling for the overhangs and find the nozzle full saturation flow. Wide nozzle tip helps on multiple levels
You are right I maybe worded that a little to extreme, with bigger nozzels the models do become a lot stronger. Also if you sell locally the buyer can inspect the print and decide on the spot if its sturdy enough for them. So vasemode prints are great for that setting.
But in my experience selling vase mode prints online with 0,8 mm linewidth still results in more returns than normal prints. I haven't tried going bigger than that. Maybe its worth a try.
Good Input 👍
@@Factorian_Designs It's interesting you've had more returns with vase mode. I would expect the lack of a z seam results in a better looking print and satisfied customer.
@@bjaurelio Thats what I initially thought as well 😅
Great Video! Also didn't know about modifiers before - can't believe that! Well done!
You earned a subscriber. Well done!
Subbed. Hoping you make more of these really informative videos. I appreciate it
In SuperSlicer you can adjust top layer width separately. Also you can use height range modifiers for get similar result. Not sure if Bambu has it, but it is as SuperSlicer is based on PrusaSlicer, which have height range modifiers as far as I remember.
But adding objects with modification is also a useful way to tweak your model. I prefer leave outer border with normal width, only inner border set to 150%. SuperSlicer also have option to set external perimeter different from inner perimeter.
I do not recommend SuperSlicer though. It is under serious develpment now and have multiple bugs which are fixed one by one, but it all needs time. I tried Orca Slicer which is kinda Bambu Slicer clone, but I personaly prefer SuperSlicer. I am helping to catch bugs, and hoping it will be fixed soon. Older version is more stable and I use it, when newer version fails.
Yeah I'm similar
What version are you using for stability?
2.4.58.5 is quite alright and fast with slicing. Recently they updated 2.5.59.11 (but it have some issues under W11 and sometimes crash on slicing) I use it too, most of the time it works for me, but I use Linux, so if you are W11 user 2.5.59.11 may be not very stable for you. 2.4.58.5 is the latest of previous branch, and as far as I know it have no issues. But I may be wrong, as I did not run it under Windows. But main maintainer check his builds mainly only under Windows.
There is a nice feature like dynamic layer height. I guess Bambu should also have it. It may speed up print by using higher height on parts which does not need much detail.
@@enosunim thanks for the detailed answer, ATM I run 2.5.59.9 on my win 11 machine and haven't had any issues yet but I don't wanna jinx it by updating to 2.5.59.11
Hopefully 2.7 isn't far away, I miss tree supports from orcaslicer 🤣
@@Krautech I guess if 9 version is OK for you, you should stick with it, as 10 and 11 versions are just bugfix releases for those who have trouble mainly on Mac and Linux.
You are right, Super Slicer has some excellent settings, which will hopefully get implemented into future versions of Bambu Studio. But like you said, I had lots of bugs with Super Slicer, which at some point drove me crazy.
Orca Slicer / Bambu Studio currently has the best overall performance for me.
fantastic hints. TY for making this video
Very useful and succinct information, perfect!
Love it! 👍
Very helpful video thank you for sharing
WOW WOW WOW thank you
I'm going to experiment with these settings, might add a small amount of infill since most of my prints are functional and need to stay more rigid.
You can save a lot of that work, by just using lightning infill. It essentially just creates the bare minimum internal infill required.
Great video! I switched my A1 to the 0.6 nozzle but haven't experimented with many other settings to speed things up like this, since it should technically have the capability to but it doesnt seem like its helped all that much. Curious about your advice on that. Could be a video idea as well :). Subscribed!
This works with any nozzle size and printer. But you probably have to increase your layerheight with bigger nozzles and higher linewidths. At some point maximum flowrate will become a problem but that is a whole other topic itself.
Why do you think z hop has no benefit? It was implemented for a reason, it greatly reduces the risk of crashes and dragging. If you experience stringing as a result you need to tune retraction settings or reduce travel.
If something curled up it will either way get hit, with or without z hopping. I have turned it on for the noise reduction.
Lost in Tech has a great video about z hop where he explains it way better than I could with text, you can checkt it out here:
ruclips.net/video/4xyevbElGIU/видео.html
It can have some benefits but most of the time you don't need it.
Would love a follow up video to explain the settings unticked. Explaining the line thickness stuff would benefit beginners also.
You've packed a lot of great information into 7 minutes. Thank you!
Any miniature video on time and settings for best results for .2mm nozzle would be great for the future. Also great ideas for vases. BTW would that still be waterproof?
I don't have much experience with minatures so I will probably have to pass on that. But yes the vase should still be waterproof. If not slightly increase your extrusion factor and printing temperature.
With the zhop disabled, many times the prints, especially the multiple ones, will end up ripped from the plate.
you know the video is good when the intro is a powerpoint
the video is amazing , if would be possible to post like a more detailed video would be very amazing , once again great job earned a sub
great video, would this recommendations work for any shape or just only for the one in your video?tks
This works with almost any shape, but you will likely save the most time with vases, boxes, and similar objects.
@@Factorian_Designs ok tks, what about airplanes?
nice video, thx. Additionaly I use variable layer hight, this is great because detailed features get better results and less detailed stuff is printed faster due to increased layer height.
What I didn't understand is the modifier thingies. Why you choose the geometry modifiers instead of much simpler height modifiers? just add height modifier for the first 5 mm or whatever your bottom height is and then select the infill percentage, same with the top.
A note to z-hop: This is mentioned often in "make prints faster/better/... videos" For at least my printer I have to disagree, prints look terrible if I switch it of completely. So better say "try switch it of if your printer is ok with that".
Thank you for your input with the layer height, good addition.
If you use height modifier for the lower part, you get a little more infill where its not needed the modifier is a better fit.
I see no difference with z-hop on/off but this doesn't change much for the printing time anyways. :)
Would this work with articulated models well or are these suited for larger objects like the vase used
That depends on the articulated model you are printing. I would recommend playing around with a few models to get the hang of it.
I am sure articulated models can be improved to some degree as well. However, modifying your prints as shown tends to work better with symmetrical models.
Print it in vase mode and pour plaster inside
could just use lightning infill, leave your outer wall thickness at default too
Hi, thanks for the video. I got a bit lost after 4:35. Why the upper cylinder disappears after a few seconds? What changes have you made ? How can you avoid printing the upper cylinder ? Could you please explain more? Thanks !
Hey, the cylinders I added are just modifiers. They only change the settings for the main geometry where they overlap. The modified settings for the cylinder are only the infill %, type and top layer pattern.
The shape of the modifier structures themself will never be printed.
I hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Thanks for giving me the keywords! I managed to find more youtube about modifier and I now understand what it does. That's briliiant!
why would you print without infill? wouldnt that make the print more fragile? or is this more specific to the model?
Are these settings good for any print (even models/action figures) or just for prints of vases or simpler things?
Thx
I would use them a bit different for action figures. You will probably be better off using a low wall count + lightning Infill in the general settings and then add extra walls with modifiers where your model is fragile. This should save filament and reduce printing time.
I hope that helps!
With 0 infill do the vase walls squeeze together every time you pick it up? From a quality perspective I would imagine customers might think it's low quality if so, similar to how you mentioned vase mode printing.
1,2 mm thick walls with this kind of outer shape which is also connected at the top gives a pretty sturdy structure. I haven't had any significant bending so far.
as I know you don't need to draw those cylinders and so on.. in cura I have used post processing and you can set at which layer height or layer number which options you want to be set for infill or whatnot.. so its quicker and does the same job.. or maybe I misunderstood the point of video because I didn't watch it whole
No, you definitely need the lower modifier as you don't want infill in the other areas. You are right about the upper part. As always, there are multiple ways to get a job done :)
2:38
You could also just increase top and bottom layer count by a few until the bottom is solid, but the rest is hollow.
This would almost certainly correct any bridging issues on the top layer by the time it reaches the last few layers as well.
(Though, I'm not sure if the concentric pattern would cause any issues in this particular model without testing it...)
You could do that, but that would need a lot more filament :)
@@Factorian_Designs
Certainly more filament, but it may be better for certain use-cases.
For example, I prefer many of my prints to be bottom heavy.
Though, I will admit my suggestion would not be ideal if you were printing many of them.
I would probably only do this if it was a one-off print, or a small number of them.
In this case, the few grams extra would be quite negligible to myself.
I will slice a test model using both methods and update here for a comparison.
To each their own!
Why does the top modifier not add infill in center of object but bottom modifier does? Is there something i missed? Or is it because the bottom floating surface is in modifier but wouldn't that be support and not infill at that point?
Cause there's open space? The modifiers only add things to the model where its touching...
Exactly.
Support is everything that gets removed after printing. Infill stays inside your model and is there to support your top layers.
instead if I remove the z hop when retracted, does it bring any improvements or practically nothing?
I am honestly not sure. If you try it out I would love to hear if it made any difference.
Nice results! But I didn't really get the first part with the cylinders. What is going on there? You print walls as 2 single outer walls not connecting each other, one pointing outside and one inside the vase? But what about cylinders, looks like they are way too high than the infill is going... I'm using Cura btw.
Would really want to know what exactly you are doing there.
I am just using modifiers, to modify the volume where the cylinders and the planter are overlapping (more infill etc). It doesn't matter if your modifiers are a little too big. The slicer will just ignore those parts. Hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Ok, so it only modifies on the overlapping section...I see... thanks!
But what about the general print/slice of the vase on the video are there 2 single layer walls or 2 double layer walls, and are just with some free space in between?
Also if you don't mind(I hope) to tell me if I make line width 0.8( on 0.4 nozzle) for example - slicer automatically calculates number of walls for a specific thickness and shows you it changed volume, but it doesn't show any change in the material flow. Shouldn't it be more extrusion for the double width or it just automatically slower the speed or else happens?
6:14 what value for .6mm nozzle? I set it to .8mm, being carefull not to go 1.5x larger than nozzle which would be .9mm
I think thats perfect, did you try it out already?
@@Factorian_Designs printing as we speak
Nice job, but the strenght of the vase, will not be the same as before, it will be more fragile, i suppose
The missing infill barely makes a difference. Strength comes form walls, not infill and its plenty strong this way. You should try it out yourself!
The upper infill prints in the air
With a short distance between walls, I’m wondering if most printers could easily bridge that gap, but bridging changes extruder temperature which can lead to a line in the layer when using settings optimal for overhangs.
True, but a tiny bridging gap like that should not be a problem for most printers. I am not so sure about the printing temperature change for bridges; I don't think it works like that in Bambu Studio. Usually, the printer only slows down.
why not use lighting?
Lighting normally doesn't result in a strong bottom layer.
Lightning infill is my simple cure.
The settings will help but the infill part is very misleading and should have been stated as being a case by case basis.
Sehr spannend. Hast Du auch einen deutschen Kanal?
I'm stupid. Everything I work on will drop to the plate. I haven't found the setting to allow objects to sit off the plate.
Imported STLs/STEP files will always drop to the plate (others wise they would not be printable) Only modifiers are allowed to "float".
What slicer are you using?
@@Factorian_Designs Using Bambu Studio. Used to used Cura slicer for my Ender 3 but got myself a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS lite so assumed the built in Add objects would be the same. All primitives drop to the build plate.
Right now you are probably just right clicking your screen and then select "Add Primitive". This won't work. "Primitives" are treated like a printable object and can't be printed into the air. Thats why they drop to the build plate.
What we want are "modifiers" connected to the geometry. Watch the part of the video again where I add the modifiers. I am certain this will solve your problem. :)
Other things i do, if design and flows allow me to, is higher speeds (250-300) for inner walls and infill.
One of the best mods i did for big parts on x1c is the e3d obxidian 0.6mm nozzle. I can get like 30mm cubed flow with any filament (don’t even tune it, just turn it up and send it). This with 0.4mm layer heights and printing big stuff now in like 1-2hours. Big stuff for me is workshop organisers etc. stuff I don’t care of visuals, just speed.
I love the ability with this setup to just be able to do quick test prints in less than 30 minutes sometimes for like 5-10mm z height test fit objects
1:45 it's fine turning it off, but "wears the z-rods down"? I think you'd have to print for a couple of centuries for that to happen
the only thing you did to save time was reduce the structural integrity of the part. That was always an option that is tuneable by adjusting the infill density, You've just manually selected where infill is most important. The other settings you suggested wont speed up your prints and are highly subjective to each printer. Disabling them for every print is not a solution to increasing speeds or surface finish of parts. If you tune your retraction settings properly, you wont have issues with Z-hop. The only reason that people typically do is because they've neglected to adjust these settings.
Manually selecting where infill is most important seems like a very useful tip. Cool getting to see how to do it.
@@IronHive I don't disagree, but it's not applicable for every print. The title of this video implies that you can just simply adjust these settings to cut your print time in half, when they could have just made this a tutorial about variable infill. They chose a clickbait title and only really demonstrated that they could reduce the print time of an oddly specific part
@@bugsuck11 to be clear.. from this title, you expected this video to cut all 3D print times in every circumstance in half?
How about just designing it better?? Why does it have double walls? Just make the walls 5 layers thick in the model. The same goes for the bottom - what use is the double bottom? It won't be strong with 3 bottom layers anyway. Make it 1.2mm thick and you don't need a modifier. Whenever I see a model, say a box for electronics, with double walls, I just cringe. Why design models for 3D printing when you actually design them for cutting out of wood or something??
And if you can't change the model, even better way is to reduce the internal dimensions using the slicer using either the X-Y hole compensation or X-Y contour compensation, you can achieve a similiar effect (but slicer sometimes breaks the model in places if you overdo it).
Kudos for not wasting our time, though, and still useful tips (most people don't even know how to use modifiers).
Hey
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Roy
Glad to see you turned off Z-hop. My goodness... The people that defend that when they don't even understand that it is for specific applications. 🤦
The only problem I see with this is that you didn't reduce print speeds when increasing line width. Unless you've tested that your hotend can keep up and the maximum volumetric flow rate is not exceeded, this could lead to problems.
In Bambu slicer you can set your max volumetric flow rate so if you print widder lines, it will compensate speed, doesn't matter if you set it at 300 or 500mm/s if it has to be 100mm/s (for example)
@@maghg2764 oh yeah I forgot about that. That essentially nullifies my initial comment then.