Summary 1. Avoid crossing wall 2. Outer/inner 3.1 Top/Botton surface concentric for round object 4. Increase overhang speed, and Dont slow down on outer walls in Filament 3.2. Concentric surface for top layer for round object 5. Print only object at the time
The matte finish is an indication for to much temp or volumetric speed. With that you have also not a good layer adhesion. The glossy print is much stronger.
Actually most are Pretty basic settings.. ej the avoid crossing parameters is well known and considered basic since at least 2017....also the one object at the time
At first I thought this was a Small Batch Factory video, hahaha. Good tips overall! Orca Slicer now has a setting to fix the inconsistent outer finish without removing slowing for layer cooling. It's called "Don't slow down for outer walls" and it's just below the setting you disabled. This is a better option if you are having cooling issues of any kind. Wow, 20 seconds later in the video you cover that, hahaha. Nevermind! Good stuff!
Love the video! This helped me a ton with understanding the settings a lot better. Could you do a video on seam settings? And possibly dive into scarf seam? Thanks!
Kerle, dieses Video und die Tipps sind so dermaßen gut! Endlich mal jemand, der sich richtig mit den Einstellungen beschäftigt und nicht immer nur auf falsche Kalibrierung / Flow Rate usw. verweist :) Gleich mal geliked, abgespeichert und abonniert!
Buenísimo video. Por tu número de suscriptores pensé que este video no me aportaría tanto, pero de los tips que hablaste no me sabía ninguno. Nuevo suscriptor 👍🏻
Ok you just saved a big order :) I don't know if it's due to changing the settings or because of the switch to orca slicer. I might test it once the order is complete :) THANK YOU!
Another solution for the matte/glossy issue: Just slow down your outer walls. Most of the print is inner wall and infill, so there’s really very little benefit to a fast outer wall. Plus the “slow down for cooling” setting can save your prints.
A huge improvement to print quality for me was to check the wheels on X and Y axis, they where over-tightened from the manufacturer and the ride wasn't smooth. Check the bumpiness of your axis by moving bed or toolhead manually. They should be barely in contact not squished !
True, mechanical imperfections can make a huge difference. Luckily they are rare with newer gen printers. Be careful with moving your printer manually, this can lead to induction currents and may damage your electronics.
another thing you can do is to zoom in alot on the preview pane to see that the deviation added to the model from the following slicer setting will make for even better prints with the cost of longer slicing time; 1. lower resolution from default 0.024 or what your slicer has to 0. 2. disable ARC 3. lower deviation to 0.04 4. zoom in again and behold the non squiggles and deviations. 5. increase nozzle temp by 10-15c if you still get matte/glossy sections. watch those shifted layerlines disappear , even on those white prints ;) This is only possible with a correct flow,temp and speed calibration. p.s. remember that time is cheap, failures are expensive.
Thats an interesting suggestion, I have played around with these settings but not to this extent. I will definetly try this out. Thank you for the input!
With outer then inner walls I've found with filaments like PETG if your printing more than 1 part your more likely to get defects on the outer wall because as the nozzle travels between parts and initially touches down to start extruding it's likely to leave a small blob. Now in some slicers there's an option for inner outer inner that solves this issue as it prints a single inner wall, then outer wall then the rest of the inner walls. You of course need more than 2 walls for this to work.
Yes you are right, I should have mentioned that in the video as well. Especially around the seam it can get less clean. For prints where the seam is hidden I like it the most.
I have been printing since Reprap days, though I took a break for a few years. It's so funny to see you "slowing down" to 100+mm/s. I remember when our absolute fastest print speed possible was 40mm/s 😅
8:01 Something worth noting about this, the slicer prince the objects by the order they were added (at least orca does), so to prevent crashing into a completed object should a later object have to be canceled for some reason, be sure to arrange the objects on the plate so that the object in the corner closest to where your printer parks is printed last (axe me how I know CringeHarrold)
Great video and tips. I’m new to the hobby (bambu a1) and it seems like all any one cares about is speed. I want the highest quality possible. Do you apply these settings and use them in bambu for all your prints?
I use "Avoid crossing walls" for almost every print, as well as "Don't slow outer wall" in Orca Slicer. The top layer pattern and wall print order are situational. Whenever I can, I only print one object at a time as well. I hope that answers your questions!
the other upside of printing one part at a time is that in case of a print failure you can still have the already printed parts done. Also modern printers have an option to exclude certain parts, so if you see a failure you can skip printing it
My hands have been shaky ever since I've known myself as well. Don't worry about it too much ^^ Is there a some way to tell if my line widths are bad and understand if I should change them? I also really like your studio lighting setup.
The shaky hands comment was only supposed to be a light hearted comment, luckily I don't plan on becoming a surgeon! As long as your line width are around 0,4 - 0,6 mm you should be fine. Like said in some comments below, depending on the material type smaller line widths can reduce the strength of you part. So just be careful with that.
Summary 1. Avoid crossing wall 2. Outer/inner 3.1 Top/Botton surface concentric for round object 4. Increase overhang speed, and Dont slow down on outer walls in Filament 3.2. Concentric surface for top layer for round object 5. Print only object at the time Aaaaaaaaaaand other 10 things you need to be carefull :)))))))))))
@@Factorian_Designs yes its true but its like round or rectangle like shape based. And the BambuStudio / OrcaSlicer are so different from Cura and some settings are Weird
@@Factorian_DesignsI find Orca and Bambu Studio quite unusual! I started with Simplify3D and Cura for 3D printing. I love those two, but after trying Bambu Studio / Orca Slicer, everything changed. They're focusing on different aspects and have really transformed the slicing experience.
If I print the outer walls first my printer sometimes prints the wall with holes/underextusion. This happens when it printed supports or infill before.
I’m actually going to buy my first Bambu printer in 10 days. It will be X1C combo. I’ve had 5 Prusa MK3S+ for years but I decided I should try the Bambu. I use Prusa Slicer all the time. Do you think it is good to first start using the Bambu Slicer with the new printer or do you suggest me to use the Orca Slicer right away? I thought the official slicer might be a good start especially when using their own printer. What do you think?
@@kaanaslan_tr Sold my Prusa MK3S+ for the Bambu Printer and I love it. I have also written down a few things about the different Bambu Lab combos you can get on my website if you want to take a look at what I would recommend. I would honestly use the Orca Slicer right away, I see 0 disadvantages and the Interface is 95% the same.
@@Factorian_Designs Thank you. I'll give it a try. I don't know if it has all the features like reaching the camera but I'll definitely check it out. I can't sell my Prusas :) I tried but I never received any offer :)
@@kaanaslan_tr It has all the connection features like camera, remote control etc. Yeah I can imagine they are hard to sell now. But I guess its ok, they still print decent just a little slow.
Hi, 1. Do you sell end product or 3d file? 2. And how and where you sell these, can you name the platforms?? 3. And which software do you use for designing 3d print file??
Hey! 1. & 2. I mainly sell STL files / make content. I still sell a few printed models on Etsy my self but I don't have a lot of production capacity. I love designing and would like to fully focus on that until the end of this year. You can see all the through my bio/description link. 3. I only use FreeCAD for all my designs.
You are correct. The inner/outer/inner, provided you have 3+ walls gives the benefit of the outer/inner tweak referenced here. Look for video titled "The ONE GAME-CHANGING Slicer SETTING... (Huge 3D Print Quality BOOST)" that goes more in depth as to why it's a better approach and he shows that overhangs aren't always worse when printing the Outer Wall before the connecting Inner Wall. That's why U do most of my prints IW/OW/IW with 3+ walls and most of the wall artifacts from bulging are gone and I have no noticeable overhand issues on my X1C.
@@hotfix7387 Yeah, I'm surprised we haven't made it a default considering how good modern printers are with cooling and such. Also the dimensional accuracy is a must.
You are corrects that inner/outer/inner is a very good setting most of the time. That being said, in the shown case we print only with two walls so "inner/outer/inner" results in exactly the same printing order as "inner/outer". As you can see in the video, outer wall quality is still better with "outer/inner" than the other two options. I would say if you want the best outer wall quality go for "outer/inner". If outer wall quality just has to be good and you want cleaner overhangs I would choose "inner/outer/inner". Great addition to the video! I will probably include a short explanation in one of the coming videos.
@@Factorian_Designs thanks so much for clarifying bro, after I did some thinking thats why I thought you didn't go over it. Great video with tips I didn't know before!
@@Factorian_Designs I look forward to your break down of the wall ordering in your coming videos. And ignore the haters, some people (especially engineers like me) sometimes lack people skills and have a very black and white/myopic view of the world and what people "should" say or do. "Should" is a common cognitive distortion that represents an expectation, and expectations are usually resentments waiting to happen. That's part of what I think happened in one of the other comments, that and lack of people skills and perspective. I appreciate your work.
Walls: outer walls first also give ugly seams. Better go for inner outer inner (same problem with overhangs) or precise walls (orca - nearly the same optics but with good overhangs)
@@danielcrandell7533 You are totally right, sorry that is only for Cura. There is an avoid crossing walls button in Creality Print slicer to check off on the “quality” pane, at the bottom, in advanced.
I can assure you thats only due to the lighting, matte white filament and close up shots. I sold 3 different slower printers when I got my Bambu because the quality is so much better even at high speeds ... Really hope the competition steps their game up, one brand dominating like this usually is not good for the marked.
@Factorian_Designs amazing thankyou. would an a1 print quality like this? Looking at my first printer to print things like this for around the house 😀 and toys for the kids
@Factorian_Designs amazing seen this thankyou for replying and amazing videos can't wait to the future of this channel it's well above 90% of 3d channels that are not this detailed 😀
@@Factorian_Designs I've only used it a few times, both with ok results. Its an improvement over the normal seams, but not as much as I was hoping for. Seems like it has potential and just needs to be dialed in
when i change outer wall for 0.33 like on your movie (bambo P1S 0.4 nozzle) i got spaghetti... when it build outer wall, it's too thin and doesn't stick together
@@Factorian_Designs @Factorian_Designs PLA Silk Dual Color from bambolab im was trying to print this model 75% of size: 1019859-halloween-candy-cauldron biggest problem is on the bottom
Thanks for the tips, but shouldn’t you print the vase in vase mode, just set the perimeter thickness to 1 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle works great for many cases.
Yes you are right, you can always do that. A 1 mm perimeter with a 0,4 mm nozzle is maybe pushing it a little far but 0,8 mm usually works great for me. That being said, sometimes times people like to print the vase with thicker walls because they like the look more.
Thank you for the feedback. Could you be a little more specific what part of the audio is poor? I will try to improve it for the next video and every detail helps. :)
@@avaltieri thank you for the kind hearted comment, but I think he does have a point even if it was meant in a rude way. For my upcoming video, I have reduced echo, sound proofed my room, normalized the audio track and added a noise reduction filter. I think it does sound much better now. I am excited to see what you and others think about these changes :)
New Plus4 from Qidi offers Bambu print quality with Bambu like interface, but heated chamber and 305 bed. It will have AMS early next year all for $799, I have couple dozen hours with it. Great machine! Love the bambu, but love to do Nylons! For nylons one wants a heated chamber with nozzle temps that can go to max of 370C. Love this new machine. Highly recommend it. I could not justify over $2400 for Carbon X with a heated chamber.
In other simpler words: better going back to print with the ender 3 😂😂 new printers are fast, but what about the quality? These tricks you suggest are correct but they increase the time of printing
Even with all the shown settings on, my Bambu prints around 3 times faster than my Ender 3. I even sold all my other printers as I just didn't use them anymore. Only the first ender has to stay because of all the modding and emotional attachment :D
I design 3D terrain for tabletop board games. I had a Wanhao i3 and CR10v2, both calibrated and heavily modified. I was mainly printing at .2mm. I got a Bambu X1C and I have to say my workflow has drastically changed. I print at super draft .28 mode, at regular speed. The quality is equal and at times better than .2mm on both Wanhao and CR10. the i3 prints at 45mm/sec, my CR10 at 75 to 100mm depending on the terrain type I print. The Bambu at 200mm. In my case, it’s a huge game changer. Workflow and quality. I have a video that shows the quality difference in settings with the Bambu. I didn’t do a side by side with my other printers as they went the way of the dodo bird.
The line width rule is nonsense. Physically a printer can not print smaller lines than the orface opening and even this is not possible. A line with of 0.4mm with a 0.4mm nozzle is physically impossible because the line would be simply a perfectly round ball in a cross section. Your line width should be somewhere 25% higher than the nozzle opening up to as wide as your flat spot on the nozzle is for maximus strength. The only reason a nozzle of 0.4mm prints a line of 0.2mm is through bridging and other small tricks where the movement of the print head is rapid thus resulting in a non exact extrusion. People still don´t understand how this works... And please don´t tell how I don´t know, I am an mech. engineer and work with 3D printing even before you could buy a FDM machine for home use. 0.4mm nozzle should print 0.45mm - 0.8mm line width roughly speaking. I can already see the problem if you talk about "better accuracy with outer wall first configuration" the reason for subpar tolerances is you have not calibrated your machine at all. You have not used the X-Y expansion at all. People also don´t value in materials hrinkage on 150mm+ prints and wonder why the part is too small or odd looking because it has shrunk is some dimensions and did not in others.
Not a single soul is going to listen to you for two reasons: 1. Your grammar is atrocious. 2. You come off as an arsehole. And you're just plain wrong. You said it yourself, there's trickery involved to make line widths smaller than the nozzle opening....
In practice, the line width rule works quite well, no matter how you try to argue it away. Theory is fine, but results are what really matter in the end. However, I welcome you to post your own video to convince me otherwise. The source of information on print accuracy for the outer wall print sequence comes from the slicer's wiki itself. I am sure they know exactly what they are talking about. I am normally all ears for constructive feedback and even encourage it, but flexing with your education on top is not the right way to bring an argument across. Most tech RUclipsrs, myself included, have higher education in this area and don’t care about it at all. We are all here to learn, no matter what education you have.
@@Factorian_Designsif you reduce the line width below the nozzle size the part will be weak, no matter what you do with it, because there's zero pressure beneath the nozzle, simply lays down some plastic instead of pressing it against the previous layer If you try to do the same trick with let's say asa, the part WILL crumble in your hands My recommendation which gives good layer adhesion is nozzle size + layer height For .2 height and .4 nozzle that means .6 width With this number the plastic will cover the whole hole of the nozzle and gives some good layer adhesion without reducing surface quality Tested the method with asa, abs, both gave excellent layer adhesion with the PROPER temperature ofc, around the maximum the material can handle
And, since it's not a bowden machine, use the arachne generator instead of classic, usually it gives better quality with direct drive Bowden sometimes can be problematic because of the fluctuation of nozzle pressure, but linear/pressure advance can control that to some extent
@@peterfoldesi483 You are right, smaller line width will make your print a little weaker with PLA. But the video is about having clean prints, where a smaller line width sometimes still is a valid choice. For planters, in this case strength is often less important than a clean look. But like I said in the video, here this was just used as a little workaround to get better travel paths, by no means should this be used on every print. In the past I had better results in "Classic Mode" but maybe I should give Arachne another go. Thank you for the input!
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Summary
1. Avoid crossing wall
2. Outer/inner
3.1 Top/Botton surface concentric for round object
4. Increase overhang speed, and Dont slow down on outer walls in Filament
3.2. Concentric surface for top layer for round object
5. Print only object at the time
The matte finish is an indication for to much temp or volumetric speed. With that you have also not a good layer adhesion. The glossy print is much stronger.
Really good tips here- glad it’s not just another basic settings video
Actually most are Pretty basic settings.. ej the avoid crossing parameters is well known and considered basic since at least 2017....also the one object at the time
PERFECT TUTORIAL, absolutly stunning results with your tips! THANK YOU!!!!!
You are welcome !!!
At first I thought this was a Small Batch Factory video, hahaha. Good tips overall! Orca Slicer now has a setting to fix the inconsistent outer finish without removing slowing for layer cooling. It's called "Don't slow down for outer walls" and it's just below the setting you disabled. This is a better option if you are having cooling issues of any kind. Wow, 20 seconds later in the video you cover that, hahaha. Nevermind! Good stuff!
How you like orca? I have the p1s with bh app. Played with orca before I got my p1s and I feel like I like it better
senior citizen in 20s, that was funny :)
love the information and the content you posted..🤠
thanks a ton!!
Glad you like it! A new one is already in the making.
Love the video! This helped me a ton with understanding the settings a lot better. Could you do a video on seam settings? And possibly dive into scarf seam? Thanks!
Thank you but the next Videos will sadly be in different topics. I might make one abouts seams in the far future tho.
Turning imagination into touchable reality with every print!
Kerle, dieses Video und die Tipps sind so dermaßen gut! Endlich mal jemand, der sich richtig mit den Einstellungen beschäftigt und nicht immer nur auf falsche Kalibrierung / Flow Rate usw. verweist :) Gleich mal geliked, abgespeichert und abonniert!
Japp das hat er wirklich gut dargestellt! Gruß
I was looking for cleanest / most detailed 3d printing, I only got resin printing back.. until a german came along! Thanks!
Nicely explained. Thank you.
Buenísimo video. Por tu número de suscriptores pensé que este video no me aportaría tanto, pero de los tips que hablaste no me sabía ninguno. Nuevo suscriptor 👍🏻
Travel speed & accel play a vital role in stringing as well
I am absolutely glad I found your channel. Great content! This stuff is gold! Really appreciated much!
Thank you for the kind words!
Exceptional explanation that a total nub like me can grasp!
Thanks, I will try these. Good job.
Actually great tips, thank you for these
Happy to help!
good job thank you
Ok you just saved a big order :) I don't know if it's due to changing the settings or because of the switch to orca slicer. I might test it once the order is complete :) THANK YOU!
Glad I could help!
Another solution for the matte/glossy issue:
Just slow down your outer walls. Most of the print is inner wall and infill, so there’s really very little benefit to a fast outer wall.
Plus the “slow down for cooling” setting can save your prints.
True, but the Orca Slicer slicer solution to the problem is very good, mostly use that slicer until Bambu Studio implements that change as well.
@@Factorian_Designs definitely. They’re rolling out new features pretty often now as well.
Life saver for my project
GREAT VIDEO. keep pushing.
Un saludo desde Barcelona!
Excellent tips, thank you from a printing n00b; so much to learn!
Thanks for these great tips! Definitely gonna up my printing game!
This is a great video, actual good information with examples, very clearly explained. Fantastic work, thank you 👍
You're very welcome!
A huge improvement to print quality for me was to check the wheels on X and Y axis, they where over-tightened from the manufacturer and the ride wasn't smooth. Check the bumpiness of your axis by moving bed or toolhead manually. They should be barely in contact not squished !
True, mechanical imperfections can make a huge difference. Luckily they are rare with newer gen printers.
Be careful with moving your printer manually, this can lead to induction currents and may damage your electronics.
@@Factorian_Designs I guess there are fewer problems without these rubber wheels...
@@thds4815 yes definetly but if adjusted right you can print just fine with them.
Uff! Riiichtig gutes video. Das mit dem Print Speed hat mir grad heute wieder nen Print matt/glossy gemacht. Danke für den Tipp!
Excellent video, a couple I knew about but a few I didn't, thanks.
Am new’ish to your channel & liking your style & content. Thank you.
Perfect. I was looking for such a guide
Glad I could help!
this guy is giving away the secrets! get 'em!
„ignoring the shaking hands of a senior citizen in his 20s“ 😂
sehr hilfreiche Tipps btw
No doubt German attitude which I love. Great video!
This video is god tier. Well done!!!
Thank you Dan, I am glad you like it!
thank you amazing helps!
Great video, good length, easy to listen to. Thanks
Great tips and explanation. Love it!
another thing you can do is to zoom in alot on the preview pane to see that the deviation added to the model from the following slicer setting will make for even better prints with the cost of longer slicing time;
1. lower resolution from default 0.024 or what your slicer has to 0.
2. disable ARC
3. lower deviation to 0.04
4. zoom in again and behold the non squiggles and deviations.
5. increase nozzle temp by 10-15c if you still get matte/glossy sections.
watch those shifted layerlines disappear , even on those white prints ;) This is only possible with a correct flow,temp and speed calibration.
p.s.
remember that time is cheap, failures are expensive.
Thats an interesting suggestion, I have played around with these settings but not to this extent. I will definetly try this out.
Thank you for the input!
some good tips that I havent heard of before!
With outer then inner walls I've found with filaments like PETG if your printing more than 1 part your more likely to get defects on the outer wall because as the nozzle travels between parts and initially touches down to start extruding it's likely to leave a small blob.
Now in some slicers there's an option for inner outer inner that solves this issue as it prints a single inner wall, then outer wall then the rest of the inner walls. You of course need more than 2 walls for this to work.
Yes you are right, I should have mentioned that in the video as well. Especially around the seam it can get less clean. For prints where the seam is hidden I like it the most.
I have been printing since Reprap days, though I took a break for a few years. It's so funny to see you "slowing down" to 100+mm/s. I remember when our absolute fastest print speed possible was 40mm/s 😅
Hahaha true! I remember building a large format custom 3D printer during my Bachelor and the normal print speed was 20 mm/s 😂
Danke für das tolle video
Great video! Much appreciated. Keep up the awesome work on your designs!
Thank you! I really appreciate it. I'll definitely keep the designs coming!
So much to learn!!
Awesome 👏🏻 very useful tips 👍🏻
Thank you!
Nice work and good info.
That was excellent information. I have subscribed! I'll have to look at your other one now. I hope you do some more soon.
Definitely have a few more exciting video ideas in mind!
8:01 Something worth noting about this, the slicer prince the objects by the order they were added (at least orca does), so to prevent crashing into a completed object should a later object have to be canceled for some reason, be sure to arrange the objects on the plate so that the object in the corner closest to where your printer parks is printed last (axe me how I know CringeHarrold)
Great addition!
Great tips! But ditching the vase example for the last few parameters was a bit of a let down.
Great video!!! Thanks a lot!
Ein wirklich Hilfreiches Video danke =)
Awesome video, thanks!
Great video thank you
Thanks
Subscribed! Richtig starke Tipps! Danke. :)
Great video and tips. I’m new to the hobby (bambu a1) and it seems like all any one cares about is speed. I want the highest quality possible.
Do you apply these settings and use them in bambu for all your prints?
I use "Avoid crossing walls" for almost every print, as well as "Don't slow outer wall" in Orca Slicer. The top layer pattern and wall print order are situational. Whenever I can, I only print one object at a time as well.
I hope that answers your questions!
@@Factorian_Designs it does. Thanks for your quick reply!
the other upside of printing one part at a time is that in case of a print failure you can still have the already printed parts done. Also modern printers have an option to exclude certain parts, so if you see a failure you can skip printing it
Completely right, good addition to the video!
Great video, thx !
My hands have been shaky ever since I've known myself as well. Don't worry about it too much ^^
Is there a some way to tell if my line widths are bad and understand if I should change them?
I also really like your studio lighting setup.
The shaky hands comment was only supposed to be a light hearted comment, luckily I don't plan on becoming a surgeon!
As long as your line width are around 0,4 - 0,6 mm you should be fine. Like said in some comments below, depending on the material type smaller line widths can reduce the strength of you part. So just be careful with that.
epic tips.
Summary
1. Avoid crossing wall
2. Outer/inner
3.1 Top/Botton surface concentric for round object
4. Increase overhang speed, and Dont slow down on outer walls in Filament
3.2. Concentric surface for top layer for round object
5. Print only object at the time
Aaaaaaaaaaand other 10 things you need to be carefull :)))))))))))
Awesome!
Would be nice to have an document like a cheatsheet with your tips
Maybe I will do that one day, but some of these settings are also shape / print dependent.
@@Factorian_Designs yes its true but its like round or rectangle like shape based. And the BambuStudio / OrcaSlicer are so different from Cura and some settings are Weird
True Cura can be weird sometimes, I like Bambu, Orca and Prusa Slicer better overall.
@@Factorian_DesignsI find Orca and Bambu Studio quite unusual! I started with Simplify3D and Cura for 3D printing. I love those two, but after trying Bambu Studio / Orca Slicer, everything changed. They're focusing on different aspects and have really transformed the slicing experience.
If I print the outer walls first my printer sometimes prints the wall with holes/underextusion. This happens when it printed supports or infill before.
Thanks a lot
Since your video's publish date, has the Bambu Lab Studio got the update that you mentioned which existed in Orca Slicer?
No, Bambu Studio still doesn't have it. I would just switch to Orca Slicer. You can even take all printer and filaments presets with you.
I’m actually going to buy my first Bambu printer in 10 days. It will be X1C combo. I’ve had 5 Prusa MK3S+ for years but I decided I should try the Bambu. I use Prusa Slicer all the time. Do you think it is good to first start using the Bambu Slicer with the new printer or do you suggest me to use the Orca Slicer right away? I thought the official slicer might be a good start especially when using their own printer. What do you think?
@@kaanaslan_tr Sold my Prusa MK3S+ for the Bambu Printer and I love it. I have also written down a few things about the different Bambu Lab combos you can get on my website if you want to take a look at what I would recommend.
I would honestly use the Orca Slicer right away, I see 0 disadvantages and the Interface is 95% the same.
@@Factorian_Designs Thank you. I'll give it a try. I don't know if it has all the features like reaching the camera but I'll definitely check it out.
I can't sell my Prusas :) I tried but I never received any offer :)
@@kaanaslan_tr It has all the connection features like camera, remote control etc.
Yeah I can imagine they are hard to sell now. But I guess its ok, they still print decent just a little slow.
Thank you for sharing these useful tips 👌
this should be pinned as 3d printing bible
Hi,
1. Do you sell end product or 3d file?
2. And how and where you sell these, can you name the platforms??
3. And which software do you use for designing 3d print file??
Hey!
1. & 2. I mainly sell STL files / make content. I still sell a few printed models on Etsy my self but I don't have a lot of production capacity. I love designing and would like to fully focus on that until the end of this year. You can see all the through my bio/description link.
3. I only use FreeCAD for all my designs.
from what i know inner/outer/inner is better than outer/inner because it has less drawbacks? idk but ive always used in/out/in
You are correct. The inner/outer/inner, provided you have 3+ walls gives the benefit of the outer/inner tweak referenced here. Look for video titled "The ONE GAME-CHANGING Slicer SETTING... (Huge 3D Print Quality BOOST)" that goes more in depth as to why it's a better approach and he shows that overhangs aren't always worse when printing the Outer Wall before the connecting Inner Wall. That's why U do most of my prints IW/OW/IW with 3+ walls and most of the wall artifacts from bulging are gone and I have no noticeable overhand issues on my X1C.
@@hotfix7387 Yeah, I'm surprised we haven't made it a default considering how good modern printers are with cooling and such. Also the dimensional accuracy is a must.
You are corrects that inner/outer/inner is a very good setting most of the time. That being said, in the shown case we print only with two walls so "inner/outer/inner" results in exactly the same printing order as "inner/outer". As you can see in the video, outer wall quality is still better with "outer/inner" than the other two options.
I would say if you want the best outer wall quality go for "outer/inner". If outer wall quality just has to be good and you want cleaner overhangs I would choose "inner/outer/inner".
Great addition to the video! I will probably include a short explanation in one of the coming videos.
@@Factorian_Designs thanks so much for clarifying bro, after I did some thinking thats why I thought you didn't go over it. Great video with tips I didn't know before!
@@Factorian_Designs I look forward to your break down of the wall ordering in your coming videos.
And ignore the haters, some people (especially engineers like me) sometimes lack people skills and have a very black and white/myopic view of the world and what people "should" say or do. "Should" is a common cognitive distortion that represents an expectation, and expectations are usually resentments waiting to happen. That's part of what I think happened in one of the other comments, that and lack of people skills and perspective. I appreciate your work.
I use latest Cura myself, Where do i find travel optimization in Cura?
Take a look at the combing setting. This should basically do the same.
@@Factorian_Designs Thanks! I thought it was something more than that
Walls: outer walls first also give ugly seams. Better go for inner outer inner (same problem with overhangs) or precise walls (orca - nearly the same optics but with good overhangs)
Hi, does anyone here know if the Creality Print slicer has a feature similar to Avoid crossing wall? Thank you for your insights!
Yes it does, take a look at the "combing" setting. Thank you for watching!
I cant find it. Combing is not a setting in cp. Its in cura
@@danielcrandell7533 You are totally right, sorry that is only for Cura.
There is an avoid crossing walls button in Creality Print slicer to check off on the “quality” pane, at the bottom, in advanced.
I thought the Bambi x1 didn’t need tuned.
how can i learn to make designs like these in solidworks?
I have never used solid work, can't help you there. Sorry
My old cubes on a Kingroon KP3S still look MUCH more even. Is that due to the speed? because I printed them at 30 or 50.
I can assure you thats only due to the lighting, matte white filament and close up shots. I sold 3 different slower printers when I got my Bambu because the quality is so much better even at high speeds ... Really hope the competition steps their game up, one brand dominating like this usually is not good for the marked.
What you like best orca or Bambu ?
Orca, it currently is just a better Version of Bambu. Haven't noticed any disadvantages so far .
Love it
What is avoid crossing the walls in cura
In Cura its called "combing mode", located in the travel section
@@Factorian_Designs thank you
What was the filliment called again? Is it pla
Yes its matte PLA, which doesn't have the glossy finish of regular PLA. Almost every company has matte PLA in their catalogue
@Factorian_Designs amazing thankyou. would an a1 print quality like this? Looking at my first printer to print things like this for around the house 😀 and toys for the kids
@@pauldurso7335Yes definetly, this is also one of the printers I recommend on my Website. Bambulab also currently has a big sale going 👍🏼
@Factorian_Designs amazing seen this thankyou for replying and amazing videos can't wait to the future of this channel it's well above 90% of 3d channels that are not this detailed 😀
Anyone have a good kobra 2 neo setup for orca slicer?
Na da sage ich doch mal nett Danke.
What kind of 3d modeling software do you like do use to create your creations?
I only use FreeCAD and depending on the design I switch to the Realthunder variation.
Have you used scarf seams before?
Only a little. I need to try it out more for sure! Do you use it regularly?
@@Factorian_Designs I've only used it a few times, both with ok results. Its an improvement over the normal seams, but not as much as I was hoping for. Seems like it has potential and just needs to be dialed in
Yea most of the times they looked better, but sometimes got worse seams on overhangs. If they improve those as well I will take another look.
when i change outer wall for 0.33 like on your movie (bambo P1S 0.4 nozzle) i got spaghetti... when it build outer wall, it's too thin and doesn't stick together
depending on the filament, going to low can lead to problems as well, did you use PLA?
@@Factorian_Designs @Factorian_Designs PLA Silk Dual Color from bambolab im was trying to print this model 75% of size: 1019859-halloween-candy-cauldron biggest problem is on the bottom
"senior citizen in his 20s" lol
Thanks for the tips, but shouldn’t you print the vase in vase mode, just set the perimeter thickness to 1 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle works great for many cases.
Yes you are right, you can always do that. A 1 mm perimeter with a 0,4 mm nozzle is maybe pushing it a little far but 0,8 mm usually works great for me.
That being said, sometimes times people like to print the vase with thicker walls because they like the look more.
spiral vase
Hi do you need a website ?
I already have my own website so I am not sure what you mean by that.
geiles video, aber diese Voice Cracks hahahah. Ich liebs!
Good info. Thanks. Audio is poor though.
Thank you for the feedback. Could you be a little more specific what part of the audio is poor?
I will try to improve it for the next video and every detail helps. :)
Audio is great for me. Loud and clear. But it's fairly obvious you were just being rude :) which is pretty gross.
@@avaltieri thank you for the kind hearted comment, but I think he does have a point even if it was meant in a rude way.
For my upcoming video, I have reduced echo, sound proofed my room, normalized the audio track and added a noise reduction filter. I think it does sound much better now. I am excited to see what you and others think about these changes :)
Step 1 : Buy a bambu P1S
Finish
Trick 6: if you didn't spend money on a printer buy a Bambu
Can highly recommend as well 👍🏼
I just bought my K1C a few weeks ago. I am pretty happy but I maybe should have spent the 100€ more for the p1s :(
@@itzleeky6461sell it again an you can buy new bambu p1s bro
New Plus4 from Qidi offers Bambu print quality with Bambu like interface, but heated chamber and 305 bed. It will have AMS early next year all for $799, I have couple dozen hours with it. Great machine! Love the bambu, but love to do Nylons! For nylons one wants a heated chamber with nozzle temps that can go to max of 370C. Love this new machine. Highly recommend it. I could not justify over $2400 for Carbon X with a heated chamber.
@@itzleeky6461I wouldn’t always say so. I got an A1 and kind of wish I’ve gone for a K1 tbh
In other simpler words: better going back to print with the ender 3 😂😂 new printers are fast, but what about the quality? These tricks you suggest are correct but they increase the time of printing
Even with all the shown settings on, my Bambu prints around 3 times faster than my Ender 3. I even sold all my other printers as I just didn't use them anymore. Only the first ender has to stay because of all the modding and emotional attachment :D
Plus the quality on Bambulab printers is far, FAR, better than shitty Ender 3 ones. Trust me, I sold all my Enders too with zero regrets 😊
I design 3D terrain for tabletop board games. I had a Wanhao i3 and CR10v2, both calibrated and heavily modified. I was mainly printing at .2mm. I got a Bambu X1C and I have to say my workflow has drastically changed. I print at super draft .28 mode, at regular speed. The quality is equal and at times better than .2mm on both Wanhao and CR10. the i3 prints at 45mm/sec, my CR10 at 75 to 100mm depending on the terrain type I print. The Bambu at 200mm. In my case, it’s a huge game changer. Workflow and quality. I have a video that shows the quality difference in settings with the Bambu. I didn’t do a side by side with my other printers as they went the way of the dodo bird.
Something wrong with your mic?
Good videos but the sound is somehow bad
Dude should trim his nails…. 😬😬😬
I did it right before, anything shorter than that looks weird to me 😬
The line width rule is nonsense. Physically a printer can not print smaller lines than the orface opening and even this is not possible. A line with of 0.4mm with a 0.4mm nozzle is physically impossible because the line would be simply a perfectly round ball in a cross section. Your line width should be somewhere 25% higher than the nozzle opening up to as wide as your flat spot on the nozzle is for maximus strength. The only reason a nozzle of 0.4mm prints a line of 0.2mm is through bridging and other small tricks where the movement of the print head is rapid thus resulting in a non exact extrusion. People still don´t understand how this works... And please don´t tell how I don´t know, I am an mech. engineer and work with 3D printing even before you could buy a FDM machine for home use.
0.4mm nozzle should print 0.45mm - 0.8mm line width roughly speaking.
I can already see the problem if you talk about "better accuracy with outer wall first configuration" the reason for subpar tolerances is you have not calibrated your machine at all. You have not used the X-Y expansion at all. People also don´t value in materials hrinkage on 150mm+ prints and wonder why the part is too small or odd looking because it has shrunk is some dimensions and did not in others.
Not a single soul is going to listen to you for two reasons:
1. Your grammar is atrocious.
2. You come off as an arsehole.
And you're just plain wrong. You said it yourself, there's trickery involved to make line widths smaller than the nozzle opening....
In practice, the line width rule works quite well, no matter how you try to argue it away. Theory is fine, but results are what really matter in the end. However, I welcome you to post your own video to convince me otherwise.
The source of information on print accuracy for the outer wall print sequence comes from the slicer's wiki itself. I am sure they know exactly what they are talking about.
I am normally all ears for constructive feedback and even encourage it, but flexing with your education on top is not the right way to bring an argument across. Most tech RUclipsrs, myself included, have higher education in this area and don’t care about it at all.
We are all here to learn, no matter what education you have.
@@Factorian_Designsif you reduce the line width below the nozzle size the part will be weak, no matter what you do with it, because there's zero pressure beneath the nozzle, simply lays down some plastic instead of pressing it against the previous layer
If you try to do the same trick with let's say asa, the part WILL crumble in your hands
My recommendation which gives good layer adhesion is nozzle size + layer height
For .2 height and .4 nozzle that means .6 width
With this number the plastic will cover the whole hole of the nozzle and gives some good layer adhesion without reducing surface quality
Tested the method with asa, abs, both gave excellent layer adhesion with the PROPER temperature ofc, around the maximum the material can handle
And, since it's not a bowden machine, use the arachne generator instead of classic, usually it gives better quality with direct drive
Bowden sometimes can be problematic because of the fluctuation of nozzle pressure, but linear/pressure advance can control that to some extent
@@peterfoldesi483
You are right, smaller line width will make your print a little weaker with PLA.
But the video is about having clean prints, where a smaller line width sometimes still is a valid choice. For planters, in this case strength is often less important than a clean look.
But like I said in the video, here this was just used as a little workaround to get better travel paths, by no means should this be used on every print.
In the past I had better results in "Classic Mode" but maybe I should give Arachne another go.
Thank you for the input!