If you're wondering how I printed those 4,000 eggcups, I've automated my Bambu X1 in a simple way using a few tricks I haven't seen anywhere else. If enough people are interested, I'll make a future video on that topic. Little tricks like the ones shown in this video (and future ones) take a lot of time to discover, and I haven't seen them on other channels. So thank you for all the support everyone!
The quality of your information is top of the heap. I'm doing really large prints and you answered a number of my forum postz (that remain unanswered) so well. This is very detailed information yet presented so simply. Vielen Dank fur dein echt/toll gift of knowledge
After following these instructions, I printed a near perfect print for the first time on my Creality CR10s Pro version1, (that tells you how long I have been into 3D printing :). Thank you for so much for you great tutorials. Keep them coming!!
This is great. I've watched many videos about how to prevent stringing or whatever, but this level of design-specific slicer wizardry is different and very helpful.
I finally found an excellent tutorial on how to produce great prints (thank you very much!) and, for some reason, youtube won't let me save it to my playlists! Oh well, I'll just add it to my bookmarks so I can replay it as many times as needed to follow each pointer. This is great and saves us from a lot of experimentation!
RUclips gets weird sometimes, I've had this happen at times and a fix is to close out RUclips, either the app or the browser page and then reload RUclips, you can just go back into your history to play the video and you should now be able to add the video to a playlist.
Thank you very much for this tutorial I just bought my first 3d printer the A1 and I was printing with default settings, with this modifications I save some minutes and a lot of material and my printings now have a better quality.
Wow! This video is packed full of great tips! Some of these slicer's settings an adjustments never crossed my mind. Well done, mate. Great video! Thank you very much!
Just starting out with 3d printing and this is like magic to me. Those modifiers blew my mind. I had no idea there was so much to learn in the slicer. This changes my whole perspective on how to approach 3d print optimization.
Ich bin noch ein absoluter Anfänger in diesem Gebiet. Aber ich finde deine Erklärung und die unglaublichen Möglichkeiten sehr faszinierend. Vielleicht bleibt das ein oder andere bei mir hängen und kann davon lernen. Vielen Dank für deine ausführliche Erklärung. 🙏🏼😊
Its so much information i feel like we need a whole masters class module, could u please make more videos and elaborate JUST A BIT more on the explanations pls
I believe it was an excellent balance, just play it through, pause, research what you don't know. All the key info is there and the help files explain the rest without ruining the speed of the presentation
@@Factorian_Designs same here, I've been printing for a while without looking into those details for better quality and reliability. This is eye opener. Thanks.
Your video is amazing. I recently got a P1S and I'm learning all the stuff. The way that you explain on how to do and why it's pretty good :D Thanks a lot for sharing it.
You might of as well have spoken German to me! I didn’t understand most of the vocabulary or definitions of the software. I don’t know what modifiers are (mind you, I’m brand new to this also and you’re much more smarter than I am 😂). But I learned some new things that banking studio can do. I’m learning so much. So, now I’m off to understand what modifiers are 😂
This was amazing information. I am actually struggling with a current job for some plant pots that have somewhat of a similar outer layer design to the egg cups and I’ve been having a hard time optimizing my slicer settings to bring down the print time and material used. I will most definitely try to use these some of the suggestions in this video tu see if I can achieve improvements. Thank you so much for making this! Subscribed!!
Lots of useful info in this video! Changing the line width for the first layer to make the slicer choose a different path is a weird one. Janky as hell, but if it works, it works.
@@zyxurr Yes it does most of the time but sometimes you have to try lots of different values. I wish there was a better solution. Sometimes changing the bottom pattern to "Archimedean cords" leads to the desired result as well. I wish they would integrate a real setting for this.
Cool, so umfangreich habe ich noch keinen Druck modifiziert, ich nutze gerne den Höhenmodifikator, interessanter Ansatz, werde ich ausprobieren. Hatte erst gestern eine Datei gesliced, wo Layerhöhe 0,20 laut Slicer schneller gehen würde als 0,28, vermutlich bricht der Flow dann so ein 🤔 Tolles Video 👍
Wenn man schon am Flowlimit ist dann kann es gut sein das layerhöhe nichts mehr bringt, vlt solltest du dir mal einer der high flow hotends anschauen :) Danke!
damn this was super cool to see! While I dont usually optimize my prints this much since I dont print that many this gives me so many new tools for problems that I've had in the past
This is amazing. I really like the matte filament. Amazing trolling opportunity: You should 3d print Lego styled hair / helmet in that material and color, wear it in your next video with no acknowledgement and act otherwise perfectly normal.
This is so much good information…. Can you make a video on all the Bambu settings and how you most commonly use them or turn them off? This is great but so much going on so fast! 😅
I've just started doing my own production runs of parts for a commercial product. While I'm very happy with the quality, it is time consuming and consumes a lot of material. I'm going to try to implement a lot of this. Thanks for the great video! Do you have any hints on how to hide the seam better using scarf joints? I've had some success with them, but I feel like it could be better.
Great stuff! Would you have considered adjusting the variable layer height for the bottom just to smooth it out a bit? I just subscribed. Awesome channel.
I’ve tried your methods and they are a game changer, especially the modifiers enable it to use infills only where needed. However, I struggle a little bit with closed round Objekts, the top doesn’t seem to have enough layers despite a ball shaped modifier I put on top, so unfortunately I got some holes in the round top shell…. And when I change the line width of the top modifier I get an extra seam in the shape of the modifier on the top. Maybe hard to explain but I kinda don’t understand it yet. I keep trying. Otherwise the wall quality is insane and the time and filament savings are significant!
I think I found the solution. When using heavily sloped objects like closed-top round objects, diabling “ensure vertical shell thickness” causes to only produce a very thin layer on the top that has holes. I activated the “moderate” setting in the top modifier and the problem seems to be fixed now!!
Wow you have the fabled X1! Not many of those out there in the world! Bambu cancelled out X1 orders and asked us to order X1Cs instead (first round after Kickstarter)
nice video! really good step by step guidance... very helpful to see the effects of your changes this makes it way more understandable! Would be interesting to do the same with a different shape object like a box or Phone stand
Thank you! Maybe I will do a little series out of this if enough people would be interested in that? A slight problem is, that it takes me around 100 hours to do one of these videos ... I'll hopyfully get faster with time.
Hi, this truly fantastic how further you went on fine tuning prints, compared to other "pros". I'm amazed by all the little details that can be thought of. I need to learn all that. Two questions though: - Would you consider writing all these tips down on a web page? Sooo much easier to refer to while tuning prints myself - Why don't you use adaptative layers heights at the inner bottom?
Thank you, I am currently not planning to write all this down. I think most people prefer an interactive video and I sadly don't have unlimited time on my hands ^^. Another person also commented on the adaptive layer height. This will also change the layer height on the outer wall and I am pretty sure this will be quite visible on the outer shape. To me the inner section looks fine and I have never gotten complaints but I will try it out to see what it looks like.
@@Factorian_Designs You are right, layer height cannot be tuned by modifiers, but it can be modified by objects. And I don't understand how people can prefer a fast video with 10 tips by minute rather than a paper that you can take at your own pace, but OK :) ;)
Woah. There is so much to think about here. I would love to see some more optimizations on supports and surface finishes. I have a small volume print (15g) in PPA-CF. I can't really optimize for reduced plastic since it requires 100% infil, but I'd love to make the surface under the support material cleaner. Wondering if I can use Modifier shapes for that?
Awesome. Please keep making excellent videos like these. Off to rewatch all your videos now and try to retain some more of this solid workflow! Should take about 26:50
@@Factorian_Designs Excellent. I've used the 0.6 line width from a 0.4mm nozzle for a while too, but I use it more for agressive overhangs, so the outer perimiter layer has a bit more overlap on the one below. I think I'll try a bit further too, maybe 0.65 or even 0.7mm, see if it has any positive effect.
@@mobiobione Thats honestly a great idea, there is some guy in the Orca Slicer GitHub (Ataraxia-Mechanica) who suggested a variable linewidth specifically for overhangs. Would be very interesting to see the effects of that.
I now mostly use "Das Filament", polymaker and the Bambu Lab filament. Bambu Lab filament is said to be produced by eSun. Depending on what country you live in prices can vary quite a bit and I can recommend any of the mentioned. Sometimes you can buy them in bulk directly from the manufacturer ... They should all pay me for allways doing free advertising like that xD
The print modifier to make the infill support for the base was good, but to make the bottom thicker, it would be easier to just add a hight range modifier (I use those a lot)
I said this in antoher comment as well, but I don't like ironing on small surfaces, never really looks good to me. But yes this can be a great solution in some cases.
Yes, another person asked this as well: Here is a quick example on how to do this: (From a Bambu Wiki post) ;===== for Textured PEI Plate, High Temp Plate and High Temp Plate =============== ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”} G29.1 Z-0.04 ;squish of -0.04mm for Textured PEI Plate {elsif curr_bed_type==“High Temp Plate”} G29.1 Z0.03 ;raise of 0.03mm for High Temp or Wham Bam Plate {endif} i e depending on which plate you chose, the offset will go up or down. You can amend Z0.03 to more or less positive number = offset up (less squish) negative = offset down (more squish)
Starkes Video...wirklich! Bin total überrascht wie viel man doch im Slicer so alles raus holen kann. Sind das alles Erfahrungen die du durch Ausprobieren gesammelt hast? Grüße :)
Thank you very much for making good video like this, help me a lot as i just started 3d printing. Recently i ran into problem about different wall color(some glossy, some matte). In my slicer preview, all the wall from the bottom to the top has same printing speed. After i investigated further, the glossy wall is spotted in some layers with longer layer time. I think this happen bcs the fan speed setting? or do you have any idea how to resolve this? i really stuck on it right now. Thank you
Did you make sure that you have a fixed fan speed across all layers? It might also be worth a try to increase the minimum layer time to ensure even cooling for all layers. If you still can't solve the problem I would try a different filament brand, some are harder than other to print evenly. Good luck!
@@Factorian_Designs Yes, and the result still the same. I think my case is correlated with "benchy hull line" which someone said cannot be fixed because the way fdm printer works. What do you think about it?
Who said that germans doesn't have humor :D :D :D haha :D Great videos. I'm im the start of my printing journey and your videos help me understand a bit more about printing itself and what to use better etc. It's just sad that here are just few videos.. Would be happy if you had more! Anyway awesome work. Greetings from Latvia
Thank you! There will be more coming out, but these videos take around 80-100 hours of work to make. I will only be able to release a video every 1-2 months :(
@@Factorian_Designs Printer my first vase and sadly for me - started to print before this video :D It took me "only" 25h, but it holds water and can be really used for holding live flowers. Looks awesome.. Will try the next one with your settings from your videos and fingers crossed - it will be just as good as this one, but will take 4x less time AND fillament :D :D Anyway can't wait for the next videos. Good luck!
@@TheEifelis With 25h this has to be one chuncky vase! :D For watertight prints I would always recommend around 3 walls and at least 4 top layers for the areas that hold the water. Increasing your print temperatur by 5-10 can also help. Good luck!
Great video but why did you use separate modifiers to adjust the amount of layers at the top and bottom of the print instead of doing it directly in the slicer?
If you're wondering how I printed those 4,000 eggcups, I've automated my Bambu X1 in a simple way using a few tricks I haven't seen anywhere else. If enough people are interested, I'll make a future video on that topic.
Little tricks like the ones shown in this video (and future ones) take a lot of time to discover, and I haven't seen them on other channels. So thank you for all the support everyone!
I'll definitely love to see a video on this
would love to see that!
@@Factorian_Designs yes. Algorithm
The quality of your information is top of the heap. I'm doing really large prints and you answered a number of my forum postz (that remain unanswered) so well. This is very detailed information yet presented so simply. Vielen Dank fur dein echt/toll gift of knowledge
Love you work ❤, would love to see next video about automation for large production.👍
After running a print farm for 4 years i thought i was good at optimisation.
Your video just showed me i have a long way to go
I also continue to learn something new everyday with this technology, its so exciting!
"Let's give it a creative name: Bottom" Germany approved ;)
Try to pause at 00:12 - 00:13 and look at the bottom right corner. This is all I have to say about that.
@@Factorian_Designs Took me a while to get there but worth it
Just said this out loud. 😂
Jesus Christ, this video is filled to the brim with amazing information. Thank you!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yes, I was just thinking that there is SO MUCH useful information!! That is amazing
The Germans hate waste.
He looks nothing like Jesus Christ
Really excellent! Clearly shows you’ve spent some time on this. We need more of these kind of slicer pro tips for reliable and defect free prints!
Wow, Quality Content! I've never seen so many details and tricks in one video. Perfect for noobs like me.
I fear not the man who has printed 1000 items one time, I fear the man who has printed one thing 1000 times.
After following these instructions, I printed a near perfect print for the first time on my Creality CR10s Pro version1, (that tells you how long I have been into 3D printing :). Thank you for so much for you great tutorials. Keep them coming!!
That's great to hear, getting that near-perfect print on the first try is always very satisfying!
One of the most informative video regarding 3d printing so far!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks a ton Ma, really helpful 🙌🙌
This is great. I've watched many videos about how to prevent stringing or whatever, but this level of design-specific slicer wizardry is different and very helpful.
Bambu should pay you to make their wiki-helps helpful. Great info and teaching style! Thank you!
Hahaha maybe I'll send them that comment and see what they reply 😉
I finally found an excellent tutorial on how to produce great prints (thank you very much!) and, for some reason, youtube won't let me save it to my playlists! Oh well, I'll just add it to my bookmarks so I can replay it as many times as needed to follow each pointer. This is great and saves us from a lot of experimentation!
Not sure why you can't add it to your playlist, I didn't activate anything like that. Glad you like it!
RUclips gets weird sometimes, I've had this happen at times and a fix is to close out RUclips, either the app or the browser page and then reload RUclips, you can just go back into your history to play the video and you should now be able to add the video to a playlist.
Germans always saving me time and money! Greetings from Argentina
Thank you very much for this tutorial I just bought my first 3d printer the A1 and I was printing with default settings, with this modifications I save some minutes and a lot of material and my printings now have a better quality.
Thats great to hear!
I couldn't keep up.. glad I can watch it over and over..
Ich habe mir jetzt einen Bambu A1 geholt, bin komplett neu und habe nicht viel Ahnung vom 3D-Druck. Danke für solche Tutorials!
Viel Spaß damit!
This is one of the most technical and useful video on 3d printing I've ever seen, thanks! Subbed right away!
Wow! This video is packed full of great tips!
Some of these slicer's settings an adjustments never crossed my mind.
Well done, mate. Great video!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for watching!
Just starting out with 3d printing and this is like magic to me. Those modifiers blew my mind. I had no idea there was so much to learn in the slicer. This changes my whole perspective on how to approach 3d print optimization.
Good tips for sure...truly optimizing a print that you will make thousands of times is an art.
Ich bin noch ein absoluter Anfänger in diesem Gebiet. Aber ich finde deine Erklärung und die unglaublichen Möglichkeiten sehr faszinierend. Vielleicht bleibt das ein oder andere bei mir hängen und kann davon lernen. Vielen Dank für deine ausführliche Erklärung. 🙏🏼😊
Its so much information i feel like we need a whole masters class module, could u please make more videos and elaborate JUST A BIT more on the explanations pls
I thought I explained a lot of things in detail, anything specific that you are missing?
There will be more videos coming out in the future :)
I believe it was an excellent balance, just play it through, pause, research what you don't know. All the key info is there and the help files explain the rest without ruining the speed of the presentation
Great video. I love how you packed so much useful info into just 10 minutes!
Thank you!
This is the most german 3d printing video I've seen. So. damned. efficient.
Starting my 3d journey today. Great content ....., I might need to watch this 5 or 10 times 😂
Thanks for taking the time to share this. It's left me with many ideas of what to test and optimize on my own prints.
Awesome, glad this helped you out!
@@Factorian_Designs same here, I've been printing for a while without looking into those details for better quality and reliability. This is eye opener. Thanks.
Your humor is so spot on, it makes me chuckle quite a bit
Thank you! I hope you saw the joke at 0:12-0:13 seconds 😉
In our family, we call that “Dad humor,” also engineer humor. The best 🤣
@@jamies.8045I already have lots of new ones in Mind for the next video 😂
WOW man, this was incredibly enlightening. Sincerely, and from one German to another, Danke schön!
Your videos are next level, please keep it up! So detailed and concise
I appreciate that, there is more to come!
this is great! Please make more content like this! I'm leaning a lot more on getting better printing results, thanks!
1 realiability, 2 speed. Good quote
I have learned so much in this video! Your job and attention to detail is amazing! Kuddos!
Your video is amazing. I recently got a P1S and I'm learning all the stuff.
The way that you explain on how to do and why it's pretty good :D
Thanks a lot for sharing it.
Holy crap this video is absolutely amazing. I am literally writing things down as if I am in a class. Thank you!!!! Subscribed
Me too!
@@jamies.8045Thats awesome, thank you!
You might of as well have spoken German to me! I didn’t understand most of the vocabulary or definitions of the software. I don’t know what modifiers are (mind you, I’m brand new to this also and you’re much more smarter than I am 😂). But I learned some new things that banking studio can do. I’m learning so much. So, now I’m off to understand what modifiers are 😂
high quality video , echoes results i've found testing and learned a bit more about modifiers from this , thanks!
Fantastic video, this type of optimization of slicers is exactly what I need for my own prints. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
This was amazing information. I am actually struggling with a current job for some plant pots that have somewhat of a similar outer layer design to the egg cups and I’ve been having a hard time optimizing my slicer settings to bring down the print time and material used. I will most definitely try to use these some of the suggestions in this video tu see if I can achieve improvements. Thank you so much for making this! Subscribed!!
Sound like this video is perfect for you, let me know how it worked out! ^^
@@Factorian_Designs Will do! Thank you!
Ich liebe deine Videos einfach. So viel kleine Tricks, die die doch so viel bringen. Wirklich cool, danke!
very nice packed video, i have rewatched it several times and the other videos you have. and I am sure I will return to here :)
That is some sick min-maxing! Nice!
Love the support pillar idea. Thanks!
Fantastic explanation on slicer tweaks, thanks for sharing this
Amazing tutorial. Learnt quite a few new things with this video. Thanks!
This is an excellent guide, thank you so much for putting this together!
Lots of useful info in this video! Changing the line width for the first layer to make the slicer choose a different path is a weird one. Janky as hell, but if it works, it works.
Yeah, it took a while before I figured this out. ^^
Does it work for you? Unfortunatelly changing line width for the first layer doesn't change the path of the nozzle
@@zyxurr Yes it does most of the time but sometimes you have to try lots of different values. I wish there was a better solution. Sometimes changing the bottom pattern to "Archimedean cords" leads to the desired result as well. I wish they would integrate a real setting for this.
Love your full length instructional videos. Very educational. More please. 😁
Thank you! Will do!
Cool, so umfangreich habe ich noch keinen Druck modifiziert, ich nutze gerne den Höhenmodifikator, interessanter Ansatz, werde ich ausprobieren.
Hatte erst gestern eine Datei gesliced, wo Layerhöhe 0,20 laut Slicer schneller gehen würde als 0,28, vermutlich bricht der Flow dann so ein 🤔
Tolles Video 👍
Wenn man schon am Flowlimit ist dann kann es gut sein das layerhöhe nichts mehr bringt, vlt solltest du dir mal einer der high flow hotends anschauen :)
Danke!
@@Factorian_Designs danke für deine Antwort. Habe deinen Kanal abboniert und freue mich auf deinen Content 🙋
This actually helped me in understanding some printer settings
Now I am doing a test but pretty sure it will be good
thanks!
Awesome! which setting in particular ?
damn this was super cool to see! While I dont usually optimize my prints this much since I dont print that many this gives me so many new tools for problems that I've had in the past
Thats great to hear, took me lots of time to discover some of these tricks and I am glad this is helping others out.
This is amazing. I really like the matte filament. Amazing trolling opportunity: You should 3d print Lego styled hair / helmet in that material and color, wear it in your next video with no acknowledgement and act otherwise perfectly normal.
Thanks for sharing all your tips and tricks, they have been super helpful!
Easily my favorite RUclips channel :D
Thank you for the kind words! :D
This is so much good information…. Can you make a video on all the Bambu settings and how you most commonly use them or turn them off? This is great but so much going on so fast! 😅
Nice tips! I'm adding it to my 3D personal study list! :P
I've just started doing my own production runs of parts for a commercial product. While I'm very happy with the quality, it is time consuming and consumes a lot of material. I'm going to try to implement a lot of this. Thanks for the great video! Do you have any hints on how to hide the seam better using scarf joints? I've had some success with them, but I feel like it could be better.
Great stuff! Would you have considered adjusting the variable layer height for the bottom just to smooth it out a bit? I just subscribed. Awesome channel.
This would sadly also change the outer Wall and lead to an uneven pattern. Sadly can't use modifiers for this.
@@Factorian_Designs I understand. Thanks for the reply!
great video!!! thanks for sharing your optimization process!
I’ve tried your methods and they are a game changer, especially the modifiers enable it to use infills only where needed. However, I struggle a little bit with closed round Objekts, the top doesn’t seem to have enough layers despite a ball shaped modifier I put on top, so unfortunately I got some holes in the round top shell…. And when I change the line width of the top modifier I get an extra seam in the shape of the modifier on the top. Maybe hard to explain but I kinda don’t understand it yet. I keep trying. Otherwise the wall quality is insane and the time and filament savings are significant!
I think I found the solution. When using heavily sloped objects like closed-top round objects, diabling “ensure vertical shell thickness” causes to only produce a very thin layer on the top that has holes. I activated the “moderate” setting in the top modifier and the problem seems to be fixed now!!
Great that you we're able to fix the Problem yourself! Thats why understanding the settings is so important. 😁
excelente, un buen tutorial de como usar bien los modificadores para reforzar paredes delgadas y optimizar tiempo. sigue así.
Danke für die Tipps, sehr hilfreich!
Wow you have the fabled X1! Not many of those out there in the world! Bambu cancelled out X1 orders and asked us to order X1Cs instead (first round after Kickstarter)
You are completely right, how did you notice?
nice video! really good step by step guidance... very helpful to see the effects of your changes this makes it way more understandable!
Would be interesting to do the same with a different shape object like a box or Phone stand
Thank you!
Maybe I will do a little series out of this if enough people would be interested in that?
A slight problem is, that it takes me around 100 hours to do one of these videos ... I'll hopyfully get faster with time.
Thank you so much, great content! Great advice, so much to absorb!
Stark. Viele nützliche Tipps dabei
Liked and subbed! Cant say ive ever said that before, well made video bro!
Hi, this truly fantastic how further you went on fine tuning prints, compared to other "pros". I'm amazed by all the little details that can be thought of. I need to learn all that.
Two questions though:
- Would you consider writing all these tips down on a web page? Sooo much easier to refer to while tuning prints myself
- Why don't you use adaptative layers heights at the inner bottom?
Thank you, I am currently not planning to write all this down. I think most people prefer an interactive video and I sadly don't have unlimited time on my hands ^^.
Another person also commented on the adaptive layer height. This will also change the layer height on the outer wall and I am pretty sure this will be quite visible on the outer shape. To me the inner section looks fine and I have never gotten complaints but I will try it out to see what it looks like.
@@Factorian_Designs You are right, layer height cannot be tuned by modifiers, but it can be modified by objects.
And I don't understand how people can prefer a fast video with 10 tips by minute rather than a paper that you can take at your own pace, but OK :) ;)
@@NinjDS What do you mean by objects? I don't see how you can apply this only to the inner part.
I guess videos are just more entertaining :)
@@Factorian_Designs no, sorry, you are right, this would also change the outer look...
Woah. There is so much to think about here. I would love to see some more optimizations on supports and surface finishes. I have a small volume print (15g) in PPA-CF. I can't really optimize for reduced plastic since it requires 100% infil, but I'd love to make the surface under the support material cleaner. Wondering if I can use Modifier shapes for that?
I think you have send me a dm as well, I just answered it :)
Awesome. Please keep making excellent videos like these. Off to rewatch all your videos now and try to retain some more of this solid workflow! Should take about 26:50
Thank you, seeing how many people like this content there will come more for sure!
@@Factorian_Designs Excellent. I've used the 0.6 line width from a 0.4mm nozzle for a while too, but I use it more for agressive overhangs, so the outer perimiter layer has a bit more overlap on the one below. I think I'll try a bit further too, maybe 0.65 or even 0.7mm, see if it has any positive effect.
@@mobiobione Thats honestly a great idea, there is some guy in the Orca Slicer GitHub (Ataraxia-Mechanica) who suggested a variable linewidth specifically for overhangs. Would be very interesting to see the effects of that.
The one thing left to optimize is the z-seam. Try out the new scarf seam method!
Just such a great video! Many thanks
Very well explained! Cheers!
Excellent content! Thank you.
Fantastic stuff!
Awesome video, do these settings apply to TPU? I would love a video on TPU if you have any experience with it. Cheers.
I guess most of them should apply to TPU as well, but I have almost never used it.
Very informative, thank you!
Another great video, thanks a lot🎉❤
What an incredible video
Great tips, thank you!
Awesome video.
Thank you, for sharing and good bless my friend!
Great video, what brand filament do you use? And are there any brands that you recommend?
I now mostly use "Das Filament", polymaker and the Bambu Lab filament. Bambu Lab filament is said to be produced by eSun. Depending on what country you live in prices can vary quite a bit and I can recommend any of the mentioned. Sometimes you can buy them in bulk directly from the manufacturer ... They should all pay me for allways doing free advertising like that xD
The print modifier to make the infill support for the base was good, but to make the bottom thicker, it would be easier to just add a hight range modifier (I use those a lot)
Thats also a valid solution, lots of different ways to solve the same issue :)
You're amazing. Thank you.
Great video! Thank you!
Great tips. Thanks
You could also apply a topmost surface iron to get a incredibly smooth surface finish. But this will increase your print time by a little bit.
I said this in antoher comment as well, but I don't like ironing on small surfaces, never really looks good to me. But yes this can be a great solution in some cases.
I need the same video for gridfinity boxes. I tried some _optimizations_ myself but I'm sure there's a lot more to do.
I haven't used gridfinity, might do a general series about optimization in the future.
Great video! Danke 😊
This is gold.
For the first layer offset, you made it for the textured PEI plate. What about other plates (such as smooth PEI plate) ?
Great content btw
Yes, another person asked this as well:
Here is a quick example on how to do this: (From a Bambu Wiki post)
;===== for Textured PEI Plate, High Temp Plate and High Temp Plate ===============
;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type}
{if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”}
G29.1 Z-0.04 ;squish of -0.04mm for Textured PEI Plate
{elsif curr_bed_type==“High Temp Plate”}
G29.1 Z0.03 ;raise of 0.03mm for High Temp or Wham Bam Plate
{endif}
i e depending on which plate you chose, the offset will go up or down.
You can amend Z0.03 to more or less
positive number = offset up (less squish)
negative = offset down (more squish)
Starkes Video...wirklich!
Bin total überrascht wie viel man doch im Slicer so alles raus holen kann.
Sind das alles Erfahrungen die du durch Ausprobieren gesammelt hast?
Grüße :)
Danke! Das meiste davon sind tatsächlich Erfahrungen durch gezieltes Ausprobieren :)
Great video
I reaaaally enjoyed your video, weiter so :)
Danke!
Thank you very much for making good video like this, help me a lot as i just started 3d printing. Recently i ran into problem about different wall color(some glossy, some matte). In my slicer preview, all the wall from the bottom to the top has same printing speed. After i investigated further, the glossy wall is spotted in some layers with longer layer time. I think this happen bcs the fan speed setting? or do you have any idea how to resolve this? i really stuck on it right now. Thank you
Did you make sure that you have a fixed fan speed across all layers?
It might also be worth a try to increase the minimum layer time to ensure even cooling for all layers. If you still can't solve the problem I would try a different filament brand, some are harder than other to print evenly.
Good luck!
@@Factorian_Designs Yes, and the result still the same. I think my case is correlated with "benchy hull line" which someone said cannot be fixed because the way fdm printer works. What do you think about it?
Its hard to tell without seeing the model to be honest, never had your exact issue myself but the benchy hull line issue is very hard to fix yes.
Who said that germans doesn't have humor :D :D :D haha :D Great videos. I'm im the start of my printing journey and your videos help me understand a bit more about printing itself and what to use better etc. It's just sad that here are just few videos.. Would be happy if you had more! Anyway awesome work. Greetings from Latvia
Thank you! There will be more coming out, but these videos take around 80-100 hours of work to make. I will only be able to release a video every 1-2 months :(
@@Factorian_Designs Printer my first vase and sadly for me - started to print before this video :D It took me "only" 25h, but it holds water and can be really used for holding live flowers. Looks awesome.. Will try the next one with your settings from your videos and fingers crossed - it will be just as good as this one, but will take 4x less time AND fillament :D :D Anyway can't wait for the next videos. Good luck!
@@TheEifelis With 25h this has to be one chuncky vase! :D
For watertight prints I would always recommend around 3 walls and at least 4 top layers for the areas that hold the water. Increasing your print temperatur by 5-10 can also help.
Good luck!
@@Factorian_Designs mine 25h vase will hold water... And I guess atomic blast as well :D thanks for the tips!
this is differently the subscription!
This video is awesome.. thank you. Can you do one for PETG???
I just used PLA as an example, this works with every type of filament :)
you sir, are genius. thank you. :-)
Great video but why did you use separate modifiers to adjust the amount of layers at the top and bottom of the print instead of doing it directly in the slicer?
This would again add material in areas where we don't want any, just like with the ensure vertical shell thickness setting.
Nice Video, love your content! Will you be at the Bambu Lab Event in Cologne?
Thank you! No sadly I live around 6 hours away from there 😅