10:34 "so maybe that wasn't the answer that some people were expecting" I swear: There where so much more answers i expected! Your Videos are so full of knowledge and Information, listening to them is pure pleasure. Your channel is so underrated! Thanx for your work!
Thank you very much for this video... After doing the pressure and flow rate calibrations for my Overture filament, the prints are turning out 100% better. They are so smooth now. I never knew my prints could be this good.... Thank you again!!!
i like to use temp towers to test for mechanical strength (lamination strength). i use pliers and snap off each section, selecting strongest temp, and for ties picking the lower value.
Watching a print is absolutely the best way to diagnose anything. The X1C is sometimes a bit too fast to see what's going on, but in 99% of the time you can diagnose anything by just looking.
How ? What do you look for ? I'm really trying to figure out my X1C. Sometimes it will make the most outstanding prints. But then other times there are problems like crazy and I can't seem to figure out what is causing what try as I may. I've researched and learned and am up to speed on most of the info out there but it just seems like there are some secrets in there I need to discover.
I finally got some time to watch this…again, THANK YOU. I’m a furiously and frantically printing full beds, around the clock. I only sleep when I can. I dabbled with stacking and it seemed like too much effort at that time. Each bed takes 8hrs on a stock 0.4 nozzle with the .24 draft profile, in both ASA and PETG. My widget is for fishing and could be in direct sunlight for extended periods. I’m only using bambu filament. I need to cut those batch times down to be ready for launch this spring. I got a handful of the new modular hotends with cht clones. With Petg’s max volume now set to 27mmc/s with the cht 0.4 I shaved 2hrs off the batch but increased total filament per batch nearly 100g. I then screwed in the 0.6 cht and my carbon threw a thermal error at about 34mmc/s, but the calibration model looked amazing when it pooped. I’m wondering if I hit the max for the stock heater. I think others have flowed more than 34mmc/s with a carbon so I’m a little confused. I really am winging it, learning as I go. It seemed to me, max volumetric flow is the speed limiter on carbons. But these new nozzles can change that…which now has me wondering what the next limiter is. Any guidance or advice for this?
I have absolutely no advice for that haha. 34mm3/s is lot! I’d rather just get a second printer than try and make my one print faster and faster, but that’s just me. Of the prints I sell I don’t hit nearly the volume to need two or print very fast. That’s part of my this is just outside my realm of knowledge.
this video helped me tune my p1p to perfection I think what you said about tuning as you print different parts is very important I calibrated to what I thought was perfect based on the calibration. Then printed my own part and it looked terrible but just needed to dial back the PA
Great video bro, I couldn't agree more about reacting to the prints IF something is not working. After some time of printing and doing tests, you just get an idea of what a certain print or filament is needing.
The comments on reacting to a print make me feel validated. I tend to tell folks to do this and they will sometimes scoff. It's good to hear it explained by someone more intelligent than me.
This is very close to how I do all my tuning. I do a max flowrate calibration first as my "temp" test. I do this to see how fast the filament can print while still getting a glossy outline. And increse temps if I want to get a faster print. Then do a flowrate calibration test with 0 - -3, and finally the PA tuning.
I have to admit, I wish my 3D printer had come with a warning label before I bought it (x1 carbon)... as someone completely new to any of this, it has been an extremely frustrating challenge, burning through a few hundred bucks in supplies trying to figure things out. But thankfully I found this channel and it's beeen helping. Keep it up!
after seeing this video as a brand new bambu owner i just switched to ORCA and the tests he shows here make it well worth it i got good results due to this education he gave us.
Really nice Video. Well done - Thank you. Just FYI: the blue to pink dessicant contains a carcinogenic (cobalt hexachloride). So you might want to switch that out to another variant that doesn't cause cancer.
Thank you sir! Just downloaded Orca 1.8. and was trying to figure out the best way to implement the sweet new calibration features on my A1M. This is awesome.
Thank you for really informative video. I'm starting with Silk PLAs having only a few prints yet so I'm really interested in fine tuning new prints. Wish you all the best.
Thanks a lot for the video! I've been using this method to calibrate my filaments but I wish you would have spent more time explaining how to properly choose the "sharpest corner" and the best too surface. Maybe I'm just bad at it but I always wonder if I'm choosing the right one, especially since I'm still getting corner bulging on my prints 😢
Hello, I use bambu studio. They only have Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate in their Calibration settings. Should I download Orca just to tune the filament? Can I do all this in Bambu somewhere?
I love all the advice in this one, any chance of a video about the types of things you look for as they are printing and what the correct response to these issues are.
Yeah that’s something I really should make. It’s just hard because I need prints to get messed up first haha. I legit do tune all my printers with the prints you see here. Lately I’ve been printing that dice box like 90% of the time my machines run so it’s been a little boring. I’ll keep that idea in mind and try to do something eventually!
I am still a relatively new maker but have come around to your train of thought. I used to fuss with benches and temp towers but now I'm doing exactly as you do. flow rate pressure advance by vendor. I am still filling my desiccant with a funnel though.😅 I use the same holders, but guess I should start printing 30 or 40 more containers in ASA as I see the logic and do get tired of picking up beads off the floor on oppsies.
I wish i didnt have to adjust retractions. Damn kobra 2 loves to string silks. up to 7mm at 80mms to help curb bad stringing. Thanks for the tips! This is some of the basic stuff that us newer people dont know how to approach.
Thanks for the vid. You give some examples of some of the things you look for to "react" to but you weren't very specific. Specifically, is there a set of things you look for on a new print to help you decide on potential adjustments? And when you see these things, what exactly do you do to adjust? Understand you probably can't provide a complete answer but would be interested in better understanding your approach and how you can react successfully. Appreciate any info you can share. Thanks.
I planned on making a more specific video on the future - I just didn’t have many failed prints to really show. I just look to see if a print doesn’t look right in general. The example I showed about layer time is a good one although it’s a short clip. Usually that’s solved by printing more than 1 of the thing at a time or increasing minimum layer times. Things like if your volumetric flow is too high or low you can tell pretty quick in a print when it’s doing quick moves. I check pressure advance too if I can see gapping in a corner as it’s printing I’ll stop the print and lower PA. If I see overhangs aren’t quite coming out right I’ll either drop overhang speed or increase cooling. Things like that. I do plan on making the video but I’ll have to come up with some stuff that someone might set incorrectly and correct it.
this is a great video!! really actionable, valuable advice. well done. do you ever print multi-filament with the AMS? might be interesting to talk about those settings as well (e.g. to minimise waste, etc.)
@@ButterPockets nice!! I think there's quite a bit there with setting the right amount to purge and something around the tower vs infill use for the transition. plus, on top of those settings, maybe some best practices when creating the model/ importing it, as well as some materials that go well together and some that don't. I'm sure you might have even more ideas - you've got this! 😎
@@petermarin there’s definitely some good practices to do in CAD and I can cover that for sure. I’ve learned some good ways to export models for color printing that really helps. I’ll add it to my list for sure - I’ve got a couple coming out soon and some sponsorship stuff to handle first. But I really appreciate the idea!
Hey, have you ever had an issue with dimensions on the X1C? I received mine two weeks ago and did some printing with it. Works fine so far. But when it comes to parts which are supposed to be within given dimensions the printer does not perform at all. I calibrated flow and dynamic flow, which improved on the Z measurement. (it is basicalle spot on now - around 0,05mm off max.) But the parts are smaller in X and Y than they should be. With X being even smaller than Y. I tried to use the XY compensation, but this only helps for a given size of part. If the next part is bigger the deviation from the actual measurement is even more off. (Comparing for example an 20x20x20 object to an 100x100x10 object.) The 20x20x20 part is quite nice at around 19,98 to 20,04mm. Very good in my mind. But if I print the 100x100x10 object it is 99,88 on one of the sides (meh. acceptable) and 99,73 on the other side. (not acceptable for a machine at this pricepoint) So the issue seems to scale with the dimension of the part. Looks like the Steps/mm could be off? Also another "fun" fact: If I print my 20x20x20 object with XY compensation to a nice fit, but put a cirular feature on top (18mm diameter outside, 10mm diameter inside, 10mm height) the following happens. The outside is way off with 17,85 instead of 18mm The Inside is bang on at 9,96 to 10,03 But the 20x20 is still within a couple of 0,0Xmm I tried high resolution STEP and STL files, too. No change. It just seems super sketchy. With my old Anet A8 and Ender 3pro i could reach tolerances of 0,1mm at any given size. Maybe you have an idea how this issue could be solved?
Great video one comment , i have a few filaments with flow over 1, if i see Pass 2 gives me best result at 0 , i go to Pass 1 and then do the Pass 2. Also found that some times K factor first is not always ideal, So i do flow first to get good flow , then K gives me better results and some times flow again Pass 2 . Also using the tower method for K find it easier and more clear and consistent . by averaging the each corner, But that could be the old eyes and just me . A bit slower but more consistent.
It would be a lot faster that if 0 gives you best results, set your flow ratio from the beginning to 1.1 and then run pass 2. I wish they would just let you pick the steps. The steps in pass 1 are too wide to give you any real information other than if it will be higher or lower than 0.
I find on cheaper filament, the temp recommendations by the manufacturer are usually very off. Last night I couldn't get a PLA to stop stringing, until I went to 205c which was 5c lower than the sticker temp.
Have you found a good funnel for filling the desicant box's for the AMS? Is there a way to back up your profiles before updating the firmware? I loved this video, thank you so much!
usually use bambu PLAs on my P1S. decided to try some other branded TPUs so im looking how to make profiles right now. would all the same factors apply to TPU same as the ones in this video please. or is TPU more tricky or have a slightly different process im wondering. subscribed. thank you
For the same filament, would I need to save a different filament profile every time I switch the hotend (let's say, go from 0.4mm to 0.6mm tip)? What about changing the plate from textured PEI to coolplate?
Hi and thanks for your video one question I have now: I don't check the difference, in OrcaSlicers Device site, you are be able to set up the Dynamic Factor "K" at each Filament. But when you do the 'Presure advance' calibration, and set it up in the filaments setup page. Isn't it the same? (just valid for all - overwrite of the single filaments K-factor?). Or is it a combination? Or completely different things? (k-factor vs pressure adv.) thanks in advance
Quick one, on PA calibration, you said "I know that most PLA's are 0.01 etc" for the PA Pattern. But what if you didn't know that? I'm now trying to calibrate an PETG filament, but I don't know what the ranges should be. Therefore should I just go for default? Thanks 🙂
try just once to set the slicing tolerance and deviation to 0.0001 and see the perfect walls on ur plate. takes a tiny bit longer to slice perhaps seconds. EDIT: Remember to turn off arc :)
DL orca. Seems great and able to customize much more than Bambu slicer. I followed these steps and everything came out great during the test prints. After adjusting settings I printed an item I print often for my shop and the sparse infill is like supports, they just crumble and won’t finish a print. I reversed all the settings I just adjusted and still same thing. Is there something I need to calibrate with orca first? As a test I printed from Bambu slicer and everything was fine. Any ideas?
Great video. I'm very new to the 3D printing "thing" and I'm researching what printer to purchase. The Bambu Lab X1 Carbon seems to be the most reliable but I find it nagging that the print bed is on the small size. I wish if would be 400mm x 400mm x 400mm at least. I am looking for the versatility of being able to produce object with multiple types of filaments as well. Do you have a video that explains how to "cut" prints in separate part for assembly to create objects that are larger than the 256mm x 256mm x 256mm bed size? One of my first intended project would to create an illuminated sign with LED light strips for indoors and outdoors.
11:05 Where do these blobs in this "skeleton benchy" come from? Is this due to moisture within the filament? I'm quite new to 3d printing and currently struggeling with a certain filament (PETG) encountering various problems. I've seen such blobs in some of my prints, but they're not consistently all over the object but rather in certain locations of the print.
That particular print I think was due to printing insanely fast. That’s actually ABS and I printed that on a Voron. It was just a little test from a while ago.
Thanks for this video! Since the profiles can be linked to Bambu Studio, do you go back to Bambu Studio for all your prints after tuning? Or do you just stay on orca slicer for everything after you tune?
Hi i'm new in 3D printing world, so sory if my question is so basic, if I use 1 brand of filament but bunch of color, should I tune each roll ? Thank you
Thanks so much for this helpful video! I have a question I haven't been able to find the answer to (on Reddit): In my 3D printing setup, I have 3x X1C printers and 3x P1S printers (6 printers total). I'm wondering about calibration when using the same filament brand on all these printers. Is it necessary to calibrate each printer individually, or is it possible to apply the same calibration settings to all of them? File management becomes a nightmare if I need to save a unique profile for each printer so I'm hoping I can use the same calibration profiles across all of my printers. From my observations, the calibration results seem consistent across the printers. I'm curious for your opinion on this. Thanks in advance!
In Orca Slicer where can I save a filament profile like how your showing us in your video ? Can this be done for bambu slicer also? Even though you performing these tests on Orca Slicer.
I saw that you have a tuned profile for Prusament PLA Black. Is there a chance to get that profile. I love the Look of the Galaxy Black but on my P1S it comes verry Matt looking. On my old anycubic mega s it looked shiny.
Yes, manual tuning can be done on any bed. I think you can clearly see it start to gap around 0.022 and see it start to get rounder. Run the test yourself and see if it’s that way for you!
Where can i learn all these things as a beginner. I started 3d printing 3 days ago. I am missing vocabulary, concepts and termonology around 3d printing. Do you recomment a specific tutorial series or a website to dive in?
For some reason, I was able to calibrate every filasment I tried except my roll of bambu PLA. For some reason, it failed on me twice. Also, even when I calibrated manually, I can't set the K value for the spool
How long does it take to regenerate desiccant beads in the dehydrator you recommend, do you run it a max temp? Also share some info on printing with ASA. I have never tried it
It tells you temperature on the desiccant container it came in. Takes about 2-4 hours. Printing ASA can be super easy or tedious depending what printer you have.
@@ronmcdavid7084 use the textured plate or hot plate and glue. Make sure the door is closed. Use the generic ASA profile and see what happens. A large part of the problem with ASA is getting it to stick to the build plate. I use vision miner nano polymer to help as well.
Have you had any luck using Ironing in either Bambu Studio Slicer or Orca Slicer? I'm coming over from using Cura Slicer, and I can get excellent prints with Cura Slicer using Ironing on my Elegoo Neptune 3D printers. However, I have yet to get a consistent smooth print on my Bambu A1 printer with either Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer. I have calibrated both the filament and flow under the Calibration heading in Bambu Studio Slicer as well as setting up individual filament profiles based on my calibrations. I have also entered in the correct K Factor number for each filament based on the filament calibration. Moreover I have also adjusted my Ironing Speed and Ironing Flow. By doing all of the above I either get under or over extruded prints. At this point I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I have tried this on the following filaments - Bambu, Polymaker, and Overture. All three yield the same results. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Nice storage rack! Thinking of moving my set up to something like that. Do you have a link or website where you got yours? Looks like that one is all one side beam (not 2 pieces so possibly sturdier)
I set the PA to 0.015 for the filament and also in the printer.cfg But every time I start a print I see Fluidd in the console set PA to 0.044. Why is that?
Is this with an X1? I assume not since you’re using fluidd. Usually if you set it in printer.cfg it should update. I’m not incredibly well versed in klipper/fluidd. I personally use mainsail. Something must be overriding it. Not sure if it’s something in start/end gcode or somewhere else in printer.cfg or if printer.cfg is not saving your changes.
will you provide your filament profiles? Big user of Prusament filament and just got my Bambu X1C and would love to just download and setup for Prusament PLA and Prusament PETG
Unfortunately it doesn’t work like that. Every roll/printer will be different. You’ll find tho that a k value of around 0.02 and an EM of around 0.98 is a good starting point.
Thx, great video, again! I used to print a lot with prusament on my mk3, but when I use prusament on my x1c print time is a lot slower due to max.volumetric speed of the generic pla profile, I assume. How do you tune this for your bambulab with prusament?
I set it at 19mm3/s and print at 220C. I’ve had no problems with it keeping up. You can try running a max volumetric flow test in orca slicer or try bumping up 5-10C in hotend temp.
I switched to a 0.2 and clogged it when running the tests! I’m not the best person to answer honestly, but I would assume the numbers are close but that things might need to change. I’d run a print that you know how it should turn out and see how it looks. If corners look weird, the seam looks bad, or the top surface is gross I’d adjust from there!
I would run pass 1 first, since you dont know if anything higher than 1.0 flow rate will look better. Pass 2 only shows you 0.91-1.0 flow rate. Also i think the PA tower is best for seeing the exact point that your corbers start looking like crap. I do agree on temp tower though..ive never really got useful info out of it. I just stick to 210-220 for PLA usually. Most PLA also does good with 0.4mm retraction as well so thats my default.
I rarely ever have to go over 1. And if you see that 0 isn’t enough you’d know. Pass 1 only runs large increments, I’d like it if Orca let you choose the range.
@@ButterPockets but you can choose the range with the initial value. I typically start with 1.02 and do the second pass. It seems to me that if you are getting your max or min values then it's time to tweak the scale.
It does matter and from the people I’ve talked to you should do PA first. It controls when you extrusion starts when making the passes on the top layer. Controlling that first lets you dial in your extrusion multiplier
I do that for all PLA. I never use the aux or chamber fan. The aux fan is just too much cooling in my opinion and makes the left side get cooler faster than the right side.
I just bought the P1S so now I want to do this to see where my filaments stack up. Would you do the same thing for Silk PLA filaments or do those need to be tuned different?
@@MultiHippie13 yep! That’s what I meant. You could run all these things for silk and they would probably hold for most other silks. Run it for mattes and it would for other mattes. Etc.
Well since this video they added Ellis’ tool into Bambu studio. I personally still use Orca but I would always recommend to use what makes the most sense for you!
I’ll eventually cover that in more detail. The quick answer is print more things at once. You know it’s needed if you can see some layers or sections (in Z) are bulging out or look different. Like if you print a benchy and the “hull” is shiny.
@@ButterPocketsI’m looking forward to that content. This is an issue I’m currently trying to understand with the layer time issue. Great videos, keep it up!!
Flow rate pass 1 AND two are REALLY rough?? Dried the pla at 45c for just over 6 hrs. New reel. Any ideas here please?? It's crazy, NONE of the tiles are remotely smooth. X1c
@@ButterPockets I replaced the nozzle, which is a few months old. Vast improvement, but not one tile looks like your smooth tile @ 4:30mins in, the top 0 tile. I must have printed 6 of these tests now and it's drove me nuts. Many thanks for the offer of help! 👌I'm just printing pass 2 to see if I can remotely see a difference, and then I'm off to bed lol. Happy New Year from the UK! Thanks again.
I honestly don’t know the answer to this. When I use Orca I remove the setting in the AMS and set it to like “default” where it doesn’t have a setting.
@@ButterPockets I think mine are all set to 0.02 or whatever it is. The default. Can we just remove it altogether? It's one of those things that annoys me not knowing if the pa value is overriding the ams setting 😂 so I'll never know if it's correct.
@@tjCooper88 yeah I know what you mean. I talked a lot about using Orca…but honestly I do the manual tuning and plug it all into the AMS/Bambustudio now. It’s been easier. What really killed it for me is Orca wasn’t doing bridging the same way as PS or BS. So I had to switch over. Then orca fixed it but I haven’t really moved back.
@@ButterPockets ah I didn't know about that. Best to set it in both filament and ams then I guess? Just to be safe. I'm using orca still but sometimes flip between the two.
It could be that the specific roll has a QC issue. I would dry it and then run EM tests on it separately and see if potentially it’s overall thicker or thinner causing the EM to be different. Usually wavy pattern though are a belt issue.
Haven't read all the comments, but I'm wondering how many picked up on the South Park reference in your thumbnail. Too damn funny. Great video as always!
10:34 "so maybe that wasn't the answer that some people were expecting"
I swear: There where so much more answers i expected! Your Videos are so full of knowledge and Information, listening to them is pure pleasure.
Your channel is so underrated! Thanx for your work!
Thank you very much for this video... After doing the pressure and flow rate calibrations for my Overture filament, the prints are turning out 100% better. They are so smooth now. I never knew my prints could be this good.... Thank you again!!!
i like to use temp towers to test for mechanical strength (lamination strength). i use pliers and snap off each section, selecting strongest temp, and for ties picking the lower value.
Watching a print is absolutely the best way to diagnose anything. The X1C is sometimes a bit too fast to see what's going on, but in 99% of the time you can diagnose anything by just looking.
How ? What do you look for ? I'm really trying to figure out my X1C. Sometimes it will make the most outstanding prints. But then other times there are problems like crazy and I can't seem to figure out what is causing what try as I may. I've researched and learned and am up to speed on most of the info out there but it just seems like there are some secrets in there I need to discover.
I finally got some time to watch this…again, THANK YOU.
I’m a furiously and frantically printing full beds, around the clock. I only sleep when I can. I dabbled with stacking and it seemed like too much effort at that time. Each bed takes 8hrs on a stock 0.4 nozzle with the .24 draft profile, in both ASA and PETG. My widget is for fishing and could be in direct sunlight for extended periods. I’m only using bambu filament.
I need to cut those batch times down to be ready for launch this spring. I got a handful of the new modular hotends with cht clones. With Petg’s max volume now set to 27mmc/s with the cht 0.4 I shaved 2hrs off the batch but increased total filament per batch nearly 100g.
I then screwed in the 0.6 cht and my carbon threw a thermal error at about 34mmc/s, but the calibration model looked amazing when it pooped. I’m wondering if I hit the max for the stock heater. I think others have flowed more than 34mmc/s with a carbon so I’m a little confused.
I really am winging it, learning as I go. It seemed to me, max volumetric flow is the speed limiter on carbons. But these new nozzles can change that…which now has me wondering what the next limiter is.
Any guidance or advice for this?
I have absolutely no advice for that haha. 34mm3/s is lot! I’d rather just get a second printer than try and make my one print faster and faster, but that’s just me. Of the prints I sell I don’t hit nearly the volume to need two or print very fast. That’s part of my this is just outside my realm of knowledge.
this video helped me tune my p1p to perfection I think what you said about tuning as you print different parts is very important I calibrated to what I thought was perfect based on the calibration. Then printed my own part and it looked terrible but just needed to dial back the PA
Great video bro, I couldn't agree more about reacting to the prints IF something is not working. After some time of printing and doing tests, you just get an idea of what a certain print or filament is needing.
The comments on reacting to a print make me feel validated.
I tend to tell folks to do this and they will sometimes scoff. It's good to hear it explained by someone more intelligent than me.
This was a super-useful intro to tuning and OrcaSlicer, thanks! I’ve been a little intimidated about messing with it, but will give it a try now 👍😁)
This is very close to how I do all my tuning. I do a max flowrate calibration first as my "temp" test. I do this to see how fast the filament can print while still getting a glossy outline. And increse temps if I want to get a faster print. Then do a flowrate calibration test with 0 - -3, and finally the PA tuning.
I LOLd when I saw the orange weed whacker string, that thought already crossed my mind
CNC kitchen even has a video on it! It totally works
I have to admit, I wish my 3D printer had come with a warning label before I bought it (x1 carbon)... as someone completely new to any of this, it has been an extremely frustrating challenge, burning through a few hundred bucks in supplies trying to figure things out.
But thankfully I found this channel and it's beeen helping. Keep it up!
I’ve been doing this for a while and I still burn though TONS of filament testing new things. It’s all part of it! Just have fun along the way
Do you have a video for tuning in bambu slicer???
after seeing this video as a brand new bambu owner i just switched to ORCA and the tests he shows here make it well worth it i got good results due to this education he gave us.
Really nice Video. Well done - Thank you. Just FYI: the blue to pink dessicant contains a carcinogenic (cobalt hexachloride). So you might want to switch that out to another variant that doesn't cause cancer.
These are said to contain less than 0.3% and I’m not eating them. But good tip, might switch anyway.
Thank you sir! Just downloaded Orca 1.8. and was trying to figure out the best way to implement the sweet new calibration features on my A1M. This is awesome.
Thank you for really informative video. I'm starting with Silk PLAs having only a few prints yet so I'm really interested in fine tuning new prints. Wish you all the best.
Really practically usable advice. Thx
Thanks a lot for the video! I've been using this method to calibrate my filaments but I wish you would have spent more time explaining how to properly choose the "sharpest corner" and the best too surface. Maybe I'm just bad at it but I always wonder if I'm choosing the right one, especially since I'm still getting corner bulging on my prints 😢
My preference is single wall calibration cube for EM tuning. A bit less subjective.
Thought i was learning my bambu....and now i feel special needs.
Okay buddy
You earned my click with that Southpark reference.
Hello, I use bambu studio. They only have Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate in their Calibration settings. Should I download Orca just to tune the filament? Can I do all this in Bambu somewhere?
Fully loving the content!
I love all the advice in this one, any chance of a video about the types of things you look for as they are printing and what the correct response to these issues are.
Yeah that’s something I really should make. It’s just hard because I need prints to get messed up first haha. I legit do tune all my printers with the prints you see here. Lately I’ve been printing that dice box like 90% of the time my machines run so it’s been a little boring. I’ll keep that idea in mind and try to do something eventually!
I've been looking for a vid like this. Thanks a lot!
Do you have the aux fan off and chamber fan for all prints with PLA or just those two print?
i am wondering the same. also what is the purpose of turning off the fans?
Great video, as always, Mr. Pockets!
😡 get outa here Mrs. Pockets
I am still a relatively new maker but have come around to your train of thought. I used to fuss with benches and temp towers but now I'm doing exactly as you do. flow rate pressure advance by vendor. I am still filling my desiccant with a funnel though.😅 I use the same holders, but guess I should start printing 30 or 40 more containers in ASA as I see the logic and do get tired of picking up beads off the floor on oppsies.
Exactly! I’m glad to hear I’m not the only spilling them everywhere haha
Man what a great video and channel!!
I wish i didnt have to adjust retractions. Damn kobra 2 loves to string silks. up to 7mm at 80mms to help curb bad stringing. Thanks for the tips! This is some of the basic stuff that us newer people dont know how to approach.
Thanks for the vid. You give some examples of some of the things you look for to "react" to but you weren't very specific. Specifically, is there a set of things you look for on a new print to help you decide on potential adjustments? And when you see these things, what exactly do you do to adjust? Understand you probably can't provide a complete answer but would be interested in better understanding your approach and how you can react successfully. Appreciate any info you can share. Thanks.
I planned on making a more specific video on the future - I just didn’t have many failed prints to really show. I just look to see if a print doesn’t look right in general. The example I showed about layer time is a good one although it’s a short clip. Usually that’s solved by printing more than 1 of the thing at a time or increasing minimum layer times. Things like if your volumetric flow is too high or low you can tell pretty quick in a print when it’s doing quick moves. I check pressure advance too if I can see gapping in a corner as it’s printing I’ll stop the print and lower PA. If I see overhangs aren’t quite coming out right I’ll either drop overhang speed or increase cooling. Things like that. I do plan on making the video but I’ll have to come up with some stuff that someone might set incorrectly and correct it.
this is a great video!! really actionable, valuable advice. well done. do you ever print multi-filament with the AMS? might be interesting to talk about those settings as well (e.g. to minimise waste, etc.)
I do all the time and I never touch those flushing settings to be honest. I’ll mess around with it and see if I can get a video out of it!
@@ButterPockets nice!! I think there's quite a bit there with setting the right amount to purge and something around the tower vs infill use for the transition. plus, on top of those settings, maybe some best practices when creating the model/ importing it, as well as some materials that go well together and some that don't. I'm sure you might have even more ideas - you've got this! 😎
@@petermarin there’s definitely some good practices to do in CAD and I can cover that for sure. I’ve learned some good ways to export models for color printing that really helps. I’ll add it to my list for sure - I’ve got a couple coming out soon and some sponsorship stuff to handle first. But I really appreciate the idea!
Can you do a video of some common things that go wrong and how you fix them?
Hey,
have you ever had an issue with dimensions on the X1C?
I received mine two weeks ago and did some printing with it. Works fine so far.
But when it comes to parts which are supposed to be within given dimensions the printer does not perform at all.
I calibrated flow and dynamic flow, which improved on the Z measurement. (it is basicalle spot on now - around 0,05mm off max.)
But the parts are smaller in X and Y than they should be. With X being even smaller than Y.
I tried to use the XY compensation, but this only helps for a given size of part. If the next part is bigger the deviation from the actual measurement is even more off. (Comparing for example an 20x20x20 object to an 100x100x10 object.)
The 20x20x20 part is quite nice at around 19,98 to 20,04mm. Very good in my mind.
But if I print the 100x100x10 object it is 99,88 on one of the sides (meh. acceptable) and 99,73 on the other side. (not acceptable for a machine at this pricepoint)
So the issue seems to scale with the dimension of the part.
Looks like the Steps/mm could be off?
Also another "fun" fact:
If I print my 20x20x20 object with XY compensation to a nice fit, but put a cirular feature on top (18mm diameter outside, 10mm diameter inside, 10mm height) the following happens.
The outside is way off with 17,85 instead of 18mm
The Inside is bang on at 9,96 to 10,03
But the 20x20 is still within a couple of 0,0Xmm
I tried high resolution STEP and STL files, too. No change.
It just seems super sketchy. With my old Anet A8 and Ender 3pro i could reach tolerances of 0,1mm at any given size.
Maybe you have an idea how this issue could be solved?
Thank you !
I was never sure about doing the calibration and then tick the flow calibration too.
Phew.
Just an FYI. That food dehydrator is showing as no longer available on Amazon.
Great video one comment , i have a few filaments with flow over 1, if i see Pass 2 gives me best result at 0 , i go to Pass 1 and then do the Pass 2. Also found that some times K factor first is not always ideal, So i do flow first to get good flow , then K gives me better results and some times flow again Pass 2 . Also using the tower method for K find it easier and more clear and consistent . by averaging the each corner, But that could be the old eyes and just me . A bit slower but more consistent.
It would be a lot faster that if 0 gives you best results, set your flow ratio from the beginning to 1.1 and then run pass 2. I wish they would just let you pick the steps. The steps in pass 1 are too wide to give you any real information other than if it will be higher or lower than 0.
I find on cheaper filament, the temp recommendations by the manufacturer are usually very off. Last night I couldn't get a PLA to stop stringing, until I went to 205c which was 5c lower than the sticker temp.
Have you found a good funnel for filling the desicant box's for the AMS?
Is there a way to back up your profiles before updating the firmware?
I loved this video, thank you so much!
Maybe its just the camera or becase I'm new to 3D printing but 0.016 or 0.017 looked like the sharpest corner to me.
Thank you for the info! Subscribed! How can we do the tune in BB studio?
usually use bambu PLAs on my P1S. decided to try some other branded TPUs so im looking how to make profiles right now. would all the same factors apply to TPU same as the ones in this video please. or is TPU more tricky or have a slightly different process im wondering. subscribed. thank you
It’s the same for all filaments. Just make absolutely sure the TPU is dry, even if it’s fresh opened.
My PA pattern is just a tiny cube, Ive tried using 1.8 and 1.91
I dont understand the ellis's tool thing i couldnt find how it was baked in. all i could find was the g code version
For the same filament, would I need to save a different filament profile every time I switch the hotend (let's say, go from 0.4mm to 0.6mm tip)? What about changing the plate from textured PEI to coolplate?
Brilliant Video!! Thx a for for sharing your knowledge
Hi and thanks for your video one question I have now: I don't check the difference, in OrcaSlicers Device site, you are be able to set up the Dynamic Factor "K" at each Filament. But when you do the 'Presure advance' calibration, and set it up in the filaments setup page. Isn't it the same? (just valid for all - overwrite of the single filaments K-factor?). Or is it a combination? Or completely different things? (k-factor vs pressure adv.) thanks in advance
Quick one, on PA calibration, you said "I know that most PLA's are 0.01 etc" for the PA Pattern. But what if you didn't know that? I'm now trying to calibrate an PETG filament, but I don't know what the ranges should be. Therefore should I just go for default? Thanks 🙂
I could have missed it, but why do you use Orca instead of Bambu Studio on a Bambu printer?
try just once to set the slicing tolerance and deviation to 0.0001 and see the perfect walls on ur plate. takes a tiny bit longer to slice perhaps seconds.
EDIT: Remember to turn off arc :)
Why would you turn off arc fitting?
DL orca. Seems great and able to customize much more than Bambu slicer. I followed these steps and everything came out great during the test prints. After adjusting settings I printed an item I print often for my shop and the sparse infill is like supports, they just crumble and won’t finish a print. I reversed all the settings I just adjusted and still same thing. Is there something I need to calibrate with orca first? As a test I printed from Bambu slicer and everything was fine. Any ideas?
Great video. I'm very new to the 3D printing "thing" and I'm researching what printer to purchase. The Bambu Lab X1 Carbon seems to be the most reliable but I find it nagging that the print bed is on the small size. I wish if would be 400mm x 400mm x 400mm at least. I am looking for the versatility of being able to produce object with multiple types of filaments as well. Do you have a video that explains how to "cut" prints in separate part for assembly to create objects that are larger than the 256mm x 256mm x 256mm bed size? One of my first intended project would to create an illuminated sign with LED light strips for indoors and outdoors.
11:05 Where do these blobs in this "skeleton benchy" come from? Is this due to moisture within the filament? I'm quite new to 3d printing and currently struggeling with a certain filament (PETG) encountering various problems. I've seen such blobs in some of my prints, but they're not consistently all over the object but rather in certain locations of the print.
That particular print I think was due to printing insanely fast. That’s actually ABS and I printed that on a Voron. It was just a little test from a while ago.
Thanks for this video! Since the profiles can be linked to Bambu Studio, do you go back to Bambu Studio for all your prints after tuning? Or do you just stay on orca slicer for everything after you tune?
Hi i'm new in 3D printing world, so sory if my question is so basic, if I use 1 brand of filament but bunch of color, should I tune each roll ? Thank you
what does it do when i activate flow calibration on a p1p or s since the dont have that feature?
Is the Flow Dynamics Calibration in Bambu Studio using the pattern method just as good as using Orca?
Thanks so much for this helpful video! I have a question I haven't been able to find the answer to (on Reddit):
In my 3D printing setup, I have 3x X1C printers and 3x P1S printers (6 printers total). I'm wondering about calibration when using the same filament brand on all these printers. Is it necessary to calibrate each printer individually, or is it possible to apply the same calibration settings to all of them?
File management becomes a nightmare if I need to save a unique profile for each printer so I'm hoping I can use the same calibration profiles across all of my printers. From my observations, the calibration results seem consistent across the printers. I'm curious for your opinion on this.
Thanks in advance!
Anyone ever tell you that you look like Paul Dano? Anyways, thanks for the filament tuning advice! Super helpful.
In Orca Slicer where can I save a filament profile like how your showing us in your video ? Can this be done for bambu slicer also? Even though you performing these tests on Orca Slicer.
@butter pockets - Is the flow ratio and extrusion multiplier the same? Also why do you set it at one?
If I use Orca for my Ender 3 (Klipper), there is no reason your process shouldn't work the same?
Correct. I’d probably do this for any klipper printer.
I saw that you have a tuned profile for Prusament PLA Black. Is there a chance to get that profile. I love the Look of the Galaxy Black but on my P1S it comes verry Matt looking. On my old anycubic mega s it looked shiny.
Why print the desiccant container in ASA and not PLA?
So I can put the entire desiccant container into my dryer at a higher temperature than PLA can withstand.
Can someone give me a hint about calibrating x/y accuracy on a Bambu P1S? Do you know any videos or tweaks? Thanks in advance!
Epic video !
Great Video men, thanks a lot
Can the PA tuning be done on the textured PEI bed?
Also, all your PA "angles" looked the same lol
Yes, manual tuning can be done on any bed. I think you can clearly see it start to gap around 0.022 and see it start to get rounder. Run the test yourself and see if it’s that way for you!
Why can't I turn on the Advanced switch in my filament profiles?
When printing on the X1C what speed profile do you use the most. Optimal?
The 0.2 standard for the most part. I will almost never use grid, so I no change the infill type.
Where can i learn all these things as a beginner. I started 3d printing 3 days ago. I am missing vocabulary, concepts and termonology around 3d printing. Do you recomment a specific tutorial series or a website to dive in?
I’d check out Prusas website and Ellis3DP.com. Ellis does a lot of good explanation and Prusa covers pretty much everything else you’d need
how do you enable bambu lab printer Enable Ai monitoring of printing ??
For some reason, I was able to calibrate every filasment I tried except my roll of bambu PLA. For some reason, it failed on me twice.
Also, even when I calibrated manually, I can't set the K value for the spool
How did it fail?
Should I be able to complete all of the calibration with a larger nozzle, or the tests only for 0.4mm nozzles?
For all nozzle sizes! Should run through it all when you change the nozzle too
How long does it take to regenerate desiccant beads in the dehydrator you recommend, do you run it a max temp? Also share some info on printing with ASA. I have never tried it
It tells you temperature on the desiccant container it came in. Takes about 2-4 hours. Printing ASA can be super easy or tedious depending what printer you have.
@@ButterPocketsbambu X1C
@@ronmcdavid7084 use the textured plate or hot plate and glue. Make sure the door is closed. Use the generic ASA profile and see what happens. A large part of the problem with ASA is getting it to stick to the build plate. I use vision miner nano polymer to help as well.
in you formula you have OLD which was 0.98 but you have put 1 there is that correct or am I misunderstanding something?
It really doesn’t matter the number, just whatever old was.
Have you had any luck using Ironing in either Bambu Studio Slicer or Orca Slicer? I'm coming over from using Cura Slicer, and I can get excellent prints with Cura Slicer using Ironing on my Elegoo Neptune 3D printers. However, I have yet to get a consistent smooth print on my Bambu A1 printer with either Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer.
I have calibrated both the filament and flow under the Calibration heading in Bambu Studio Slicer as well as setting up individual filament profiles based on my calibrations. I have also entered in the correct K Factor number for each filament based on the filament calibration. Moreover I have also adjusted my Ironing Speed and Ironing Flow.
By doing all of the above I either get under or over extruded prints. At this point I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I have tried this on the following filaments - Bambu, Polymaker, and Overture. All three yield the same results. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I’ve never really tried ironing! Sorry!
How do you fit tour filament spools in the food dehydrator those trays don't look tall enough to accommodate a roll?
You cut all the trays. It fits 2 rolls
Print at 8:19
Why does it have those irregular lines?
Can this be done with BL slicer ?
Nice storage rack! Thinking of moving my set up to something like that.
Do you have a link or website where you got yours? Looks like that one is all one side beam (not 2 pieces so possibly sturdier)
It’s from Uline. It’s their wide span industrial steel rack.
THANK YOU!!!!
I did the flow test you showed with Orca and every patch looked exactly the same.
Same, they ALL looked like dogshit...
Did you figure it out?
I set the PA to 0.015 for the filament and also in the printer.cfg But every time I start a print I see Fluidd in the console set PA to 0.044. Why is that?
Is this with an X1? I assume not since you’re using fluidd. Usually if you set it in printer.cfg it should update. I’m not incredibly well versed in klipper/fluidd. I personally use mainsail. Something must be overriding it. Not sure if it’s something in start/end gcode or somewhere else in printer.cfg or if printer.cfg is not saving your changes.
will you provide your filament profiles? Big user of Prusament filament and just got my Bambu X1C and would love to just download and setup for Prusament PLA and Prusament PETG
Unfortunately it doesn’t work like that. Every roll/printer will be different. You’ll find tho that a k value of around 0.02 and an EM of around 0.98 is a good starting point.
Thx, great video, again! I used to print a lot with prusament on my mk3, but when I use prusament on my x1c print time is a lot slower due to max.volumetric speed of the generic pla profile, I assume. How do you tune this for your bambulab with prusament?
I set it at 19mm3/s and print at 220C. I’ve had no problems with it keeping up. You can try running a max volumetric flow test in orca slicer or try bumping up 5-10C in hotend temp.
Hey butter fantastic video. Do you change any of the PA or EM settings when moving from a 0.4mm to 0.2mm nozzle?
I switched to a 0.2 and clogged it when running the tests! I’m not the best person to answer honestly, but I would assume the numbers are close but that things might need to change. I’d run a print that you know how it should turn out and see how it looks. If corners look weird, the seam looks bad, or the top surface is gross I’d adjust from there!
I would run pass 1 first, since you dont know if anything higher than 1.0 flow rate will look better. Pass 2 only shows you 0.91-1.0 flow rate. Also i think the PA tower is best for seeing the exact point that your corbers start looking like crap. I do agree on temp tower though..ive never really got useful info out of it. I just stick to 210-220 for PLA usually. Most PLA also does good with 0.4mm retraction as well so thats my default.
I rarely ever have to go over 1. And if you see that 0 isn’t enough you’d know. Pass 1 only runs large increments, I’d like it if Orca let you choose the range.
@@ButterPockets but you can choose the range with the initial value. I typically start with 1.02 and do the second pass. It seems to me that if you are getting your max or min values then it's time to tweak the scale.
I was always under the impression that you should calculate flow ratio first before PA, does this not actually matter?
It does matter and from the people I’ve talked to you should do PA first. It controls when you extrusion starts when making the passes on the top layer. Controlling that first lets you dial in your extrusion multiplier
Hi man :D
GREAT video :D
Can you tell me on what temp do you dry filaments in food dehydrator?
Below the glass transition temp. So for PLA like 50C and so on
@@ButterPockets tnx man 💪😎
I'm curious as to why you changed the fan settings for the prints you showed.
I do that for all PLA. I never use the aux or chamber fan. The aux fan is just too much cooling in my opinion and makes the left side get cooler faster than the right side.
@@ButterPockets thanks, I’ll consider doing that myself. 😁👍
What about part tolerances what are they on your prints with pla, asa, abs, petg etc?
Getting around within 0.1mm is normal and expected
I just bought the P1S so now I want to do this to see where my filaments stack up. Would you do the same thing for Silk PLA filaments or do those need to be tuned different?
I would tune silk PLA, matte PLA, and basic PLA separately! They can definitely have different behaviors.
@@ButterPockets Sorry, I guess I meant would you do the same things to tune silk PLA, i.e. the pressure advance pattern followed by EM pass 2?
@@MultiHippie13 yep! That’s what I meant. You could run all these things for silk and they would probably hold for most other silks. Run it for mattes and it would for other mattes. Etc.
@@ButterPockets Awesome, thank you for the advice!
Is it better to do this in Orca then in bambu? I use bambu slicer for regular use.
Well since this video they added Ellis’ tool into Bambu studio. I personally still use Orca but I would always recommend to use what makes the most sense for you!
@@ButterPockets what about calibration, do you prefer one over the other
How do you adjust for layer times and how do you know when its needed?
I’ll eventually cover that in more detail. The quick answer is print more things at once. You know it’s needed if you can see some layers or sections (in Z) are bulging out or look different. Like if you print a benchy and the “hull” is shiny.
@@ButterPocketsI’m looking forward to that content. This is an issue I’m currently trying to understand with the layer time issue. Great videos, keep it up!!
Flow rate pass 1 AND two are REALLY rough?? Dried the pla at 45c for just over 6 hrs. New reel. Any ideas here please?? It's crazy, NONE of the tiles are remotely smooth. X1c
It’s hard to say from just a comment. My email is on my channel page. Feel free to email me and I can try and help more.
@@ButterPockets I replaced the nozzle, which is a few months old. Vast improvement, but not one tile looks like your smooth tile @ 4:30mins in, the top 0 tile.
I must have printed 6 of these tests now and it's drove me nuts. Many thanks for the offer of help! 👌I'm just printing pass 2 to see if I can remotely see a difference, and then I'm off to bed lol. Happy New Year from the UK! Thanks again.
Does setting the PA Value, in the filament settings.
Override the K/PA Value in the ams settings?
I honestly don’t know the answer to this. When I use Orca I remove the setting in the AMS and set it to like “default” where it doesn’t have a setting.
@@ButterPockets I think mine are all set to 0.02 or whatever it is. The default. Can we just remove it altogether?
It's one of those things that annoys me not knowing if the pa value is overriding the ams setting 😂 so I'll never know if it's correct.
@@tjCooper88 yeah I know what you mean. I talked a lot about using Orca…but honestly I do the manual tuning and plug it all into the AMS/Bambustudio now. It’s been easier. What really killed it for me is Orca wasn’t doing bridging the same way as PS or BS. So I had to switch over. Then orca fixed it but I haven’t really moved back.
@@ButterPockets ah I didn't know about that. Best to set it in both filament and ams then I guess? Just to be safe. I'm using orca still but sometimes flip between the two.
just ordered a ton of bambu matte filaments..for some reason the red is giving me issues..just the red. Small patterns wavy gaps in the print
It could be that the specific roll has a QC issue. I would dry it and then run EM tests on it separately and see if potentially it’s overall thicker or thinner causing the EM to be different. Usually wavy pattern though are a belt issue.
what does elisis p.a. tool baked in mean?
It’s under the calibration tools in orca slicer now.
Haven't read all the comments, but I'm wondering how many picked up on the South Park reference in your thumbnail. Too damn funny. Great video as always!
You know…I honestly didn’t know that was a south park reference haha