Perfect video, not too long, no useless BS. Showed us the whole process, thank you dude! I have a new P1S so I think that the process will be exactly the same. Now let's go do some multi color stuff!
Thank you! I'm contempleting if I should get the AMS or not. Many videos show how to pause/change colors in studio, but this is the first I have found that shows how you handle it when you actually print... Thank you! :D
Lots of people regret not getting the AMS, but it's definitely not necessary. I love the convenience of having 4 of my most frequently used filament colors and types ready to go at anytime. I barely use the multi color printing capability these days due to the waste it creates but it's also a very cool feature of the AMS. You can also buy the standalone printer and later down the line get the AMS separately. I'm glad this video was useful to you :)
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah. I havn’t bought a printer yet but im playing around in bambu studio. Just having filament backup from AMS so that it continues on with the next roll is pretty great. There is a pretty hefty discount when you buy the printer and AMS so I’m tempted. Im waiting for a sale so if one comes up, that will most likely decide what I pick up :)
Nice trick with bottom slider. That is definitely clearly understand where you shall change the color. By the way, should we use "Insert G custom code" to have the same result or modern Bamboo printers make this useless?
Hi, I managed to do it without inserting the pause, but by having it do the color change process automatically, simply by changing the color of the object. Now I can't do it again, what can I do? If I wanted to change color on the same layer, how can I do it?
That is pretty crazy. The font I used in this video is "Roboto" (fonts.google.com/specimen/Roboto ) because that's what RUclips uses across the platform and I wanted the "Subscribe" letters to match. I don't scale things specifically for nozzle size but I wouldn't print anything where the letters are thinner than the nozzle size. In this case 0.4mm. The part in the video has letters that have a line width of approx. 2mm which just happens to be a multiple of 0.4mm but that's a happy little accident. Not an intentional choice.
@@3DPrintStuff thanks. Yes, that is what I meant regarding font size - was it a multiple of the nozzle. I was just impressed how smooth and full bodied the text came out. I know font style and text width can play an important role in the printed results. 🙏🙏
I tried this but found the second filament didn't stick down on the printed part, I'm guessing it might be the temp lower than it should have been, maybe, but would welcome your comments.
Thanks chap, all content, no filler, perfect instruction video!
Perfect video, not too long, no useless BS. Showed us the whole process, thank you dude! I have a new P1S so I think that the process will be exactly the same. Now let's go do some multi color stuff!
Perfect - THANK YOU for all the details and up close shots 🙏🙏
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment :)
THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!! Bartender, get this guy whatever he's drinking!!
You're welcome! You're welcome! You're welcome! I'll have what he's having!
Thank you. This has been driving me nuts to do with TPU so thank you so much.
Glad it helped. What are you printing with TPU?
Thank you! I'm contempleting if I should get the AMS or not. Many videos show how to pause/change colors in studio, but this is the first I have found that shows how you handle it when you actually print... Thank you! :D
Lots of people regret not getting the AMS, but it's definitely not necessary. I love the convenience of having 4 of my most frequently used filament colors and types ready to go at anytime. I barely use the multi color printing capability these days due to the waste it creates but it's also a very cool feature of the AMS. You can also buy the standalone printer and later down the line get the AMS separately.
I'm glad this video was useful to you :)
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah. I havn’t bought a printer yet but im playing around in bambu studio.
Just having filament backup from AMS so that it continues on with the next roll is pretty great.
There is a pretty hefty discount when you buy the printer and AMS so I’m tempted. Im waiting for a sale so if one comes up, that will most likely decide what I pick up :)
Tank you very much . Helped lots !
Nice trick with bottom slider. That is definitely clearly understand where you shall change the color.
By the way, should we use "Insert G custom code" to have the same result or modern Bamboo printers make this useless?
Hi, I managed to do it without inserting the pause, but by having it do the color change process automatically, simply by changing the color of the object. Now I can't do it again, what can I do? If I wanted to change color on the same layer, how can I do it?
Thank you! Well done.
You’re welcome, thanks.
Thank you!!
You’re welcome
Thanks that was helpful.
Glad it was helpful.
Genioooooooooooooooooooo❤❤❤❤❤
I've got a crazy question..... What font are you using for the text? Do you tweak the font size to match nozzle size at all?
That is pretty crazy. The font I used in this video is "Roboto" (fonts.google.com/specimen/Roboto ) because that's what RUclips uses across the platform and I wanted the "Subscribe" letters to match.
I don't scale things specifically for nozzle size but I wouldn't print anything where the letters are thinner than the nozzle size. In this case 0.4mm. The part in the video has letters that have a line width of approx. 2mm which just happens to be a multiple of 0.4mm but that's a happy little accident. Not an intentional choice.
@@3DPrintStuff thanks. Yes, that is what I meant regarding font size - was it a multiple of the nozzle. I was just impressed how smooth and full bodied the text came out. I know font style and text width can play an important role in the printed results. 🙏🙏
very helpful tank you
You’re welcome, glad it was helpful
How do you make the raised edge on the out side im trying to make some drink coasters with a raised edge to catch the condensation
If you already have a base shape I do a "Project" and then a "Offset" and then extrude.
@@3DPrintStuff and that will rase the edge the same hight as the writing on the subscriber model printed
I tried this but found the second filament didn't stick down on the printed part, I'm guessing it might be the temp lower than it should have been, maybe, but would welcome your comments.
Same filament type? PLA -> PLA or PETG -> PETG?
Thank you for the video
You're welcome, glad it was useful.